\°n°  I 


AMERICAN 

FLOWER  GARDEN  DIRECTORY: 

CONTAINING 

PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  THE  CULTURE  OF  PLANTS 

IN  THE 

FLOWER  GARDEN,  HOT-HOUSE,  GREEN-HOUSE,  ROOMS,  OR 
PARLOUR  WINDOWS, 

FOR  EVERY  MONTH  IN  THE  YEAR. 

WITH 

A  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  PLANTS  MOST  DESIRABLE  IN  EACH,  THE  NATURE  OF 

THE  SOIL,  AND  SITUATION  BEST  ADAPTED  TO  THEIR  GROWTH, 

THE  PROPER  SEASON  FOR  TRANSPLANTING,  ETC. 

WITH  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  ERECTING  A 

HOT-HOUSE,  GREEN-HOUSE,  AND  LAYING  OUT  A  FLOWER 
GARDEN, 

THE  WHOLE  ADAPTED  TO  EITHER  LARGE  OR  SMALL  GARDENS, 

WITH  INSTRUCTIONS    FOR   PREPARING  THE  SOIL,  PROPAGATING, 
PLANTING,  PRUNING,  TRAINING  AND  FRUITING   THE 

GRAPE    VINE. 

WITH  DESCRIPTIONS  OF  THE  BEST  SORTS  FOR  CULTIVATING  IN  THE  OPEN  AIB. 

THIRD   EDITION,    WITH   NUMEROUS   ADDITIONS. 

BY  ROBERT  BUIST, 

NURSERYMAN    AND  'FLORIST. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

CAREY    AND     HART. 
1845. 


E!*TEKED  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1845,  by  CAREY  &  HART, 
in.  the  Clerk's  Oifice  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Eastern  District  of  Penn- 
sylvania. 


PHILADELPHIA  t 

T.  K.  &.  P.  G.  COLLINS, 

PRINTERS. 


PREFACE 

TO    THE   FIRST   EDITION. 


THIS  volume  owes  its  existence  principally  to  the  re- 
peated requests  of  a  number  of  our  fair  patrons  and  ama- 
teur supporters,  whose  inquiries  and  wishes  for  a  practical 
manual  on  Floriculture,  at  last  induced  us  to  prepare  a 
work  on  the  subject.  That  now  offered  is  given  unaffect- 
edly and  simply  as  a  plain  and  easy  treatise  on  this  in- 
creasingly interesting  subject.  It  will  at  once  be  perceived 
that  there  are  no  pretensions  to  literary  claims — the  'direc- 
tions are  given  in  the  simplest  manner — the  arrangement 
made  as  lucidly  as  was  in  our  power — and  the  whole  is 
presented  with  the  single  wish  of  its  being  practically 
useful.  How  far  our  object  has  been  attained,  of  course 
our  readers  must  judge.  Nothing  has  been  intentionally 
concealed  ;  and  all  that  is  asserted  is  the  result  of  minute 
observation,  close  application,  and  an  extended  continuous 
experience  from  childhood.  We  pretend  not  to  infallibility, 
and  are  not  so  sanguine  as  to  declare  our  views  the  most 
perfect  that  can  be  attained.  But  we  can  so  far  say,  that 
the  practice  here  recommended  has  been  found  very  suc- 
cessful. 

Some,  very  probably,  may  be  disappointed  in  not  having 
the  means  of  propagating  as  clearly  delineated  as  those  of 
culture ;  but  to  have  entered  into  all  the  minutiae  connected 
therewith,  would  have  formed  materials  for  two  volumes 
larger  than  the  present.  We  might  have  described  that 
branch,  as  it  has  already  been  done  in  works  published 


both  on  this  continent  and  in  Europe.  In  one  of  the  former 
it  is  said,  "  You  may  now  propagate  many  kinds  (Exotic 
Plants}  by  suckers,  cuttings  and  layers,  which  should  be 
duly  attended  to,  particularly  such  as  are  scarce  and  diffi- 
cult to  be  obtained."  And  the  directions  given  in  one  of 
the  most  extensive  works  in  Europe  on  the  propagation  of 
an  extensive  genus,  varied  in  character  and  constitution, 
run  thus  :  "  Cuttings  of  most  kinds  will  strike  root.  From 
the  strongest  growing  kinds,  take  off  large  cuttings  at  a 
joint,  and  plunge  them  in  a  pot  of  sand  under  a  hand-glass 
in  the  bark  bed.  Of  the  smaller  kinds,  take  younger  kinds 
and  put  them  under  a  bell-glass,  also  plunged  in  heat.  The 
sooner  the  plants  are  potted  off  after  they  are  rooted  the 
better." 

Such  instructions  to  the  inexperienced  are  imperfect 
and  unavailing,  which,  we  flatter  ourselves,  is  not  the 
character  that  will  attach  to  the  present  work.  We  are 
well  aware  that  there  are  persons  who,  to  show  their  own 
superior  abilities,  may  cavil  and  say  that  there  is  nothing 
new.  To  such  critics  it  may  be  answered,  if  arranging, 
simplifying,  digesting  and  rendering  Floriculture  attainable 
by  the  humblest  capacity,  with  useful  lists  and  tables  on  a 
plan  quite  novel,  as  we  believe,  offer  nothing  new,  it  may 
at  least  be  called  an  improvement.  However,  we  submit 
all  to  a  generous  public,  to  whom  we  are  already  under 
many  obligations. 

HIBBERT  &  BUIST. 

PHILADELPHIA,  Jjprtt  18th,  1832. 


INTRODUCTION. 


WE  are  again  called  upon  to  present  to  the  Public  the 
Third  Edition  of  this  popular  Work  on  the  Culture  of 
Flowers — a  taste  that  is  now  widely  disseminating  itself; 
in  fact,  a  knowledge  of  which  is  requisite  before  a  refined 
education  is  completed.  We  boldly  and  fearlessly  say, 
that  no  country  has  made  such  rapid  advancement  in  the 
art  and  science  of  Horticulture  in  so  short  a  period,  as 
these  United  States.  Wherever  the  taste  prevails,  it  dif- 
fuses a  peace  and  harmony  among  its  participants  without 
either  symbol  or  mystery.  In  this  edition  a  feast  of  new 
material  has  been  served  up ;  entire  lists  have  been  can- 
celed and  replaced  with  those  of  newer  and  finer  forms 
and  habits ;  extraneous  matter  and  plants  of  indifferent 
character  are  dropped,  and  every  improvement  in  the  art 
up  to  this  present  time  introduced. 

True,  we  have  not  dilated  on  the  wonderful  effects  of 
electricity  upon  vegetation,  nor  have  we  been  extravagant 
in  the  results  of  guano  in  the  growth  of  plants.  With  re- 
gard to  the  former,  the  capability  of  its  reduction  to  general 
practice  has  yet  to  be  proven — and  the  latter  has  to  be 
cautiously  used,  and  even  then  its  beneficial  effects  are 
not  universal.  However,  it  can  in  a  liquid  state  be  used 
to  advantage  on  almost  any  plant,  especially  those  of  strong 
habits,  such  as  the  Rose,  Geranium,  Fuchsia,  Heliotrope, 
Chrysanthemum,  &c.  To  such,  the  following  proportions 
will  be  very  beneficial:  1  Ib.  of  guano  to  5  galls,  of  water; 
after  standing  12  or  more  hours,  can  be  used  in  the  routine 
of  watering  once  a  week  or  even  once  in  two  weeks  ;  but 
to  plants  that  have  more  delicate  and  silky  rootlets,  such 
as  Epacris,  Erica,  Jlzalea,  &c.,  the  liquid  must  be  reduced 
one  half. 

Our  descriptions  of  plants  have  been  conveyed  more 
with  the  view  of  giving  an  idea  of  their  character  to  the 
1* 


VI  INTRODUCTION. 

general  reader,  than  an  accurate  botanical  synopsis,  which 
would  have  been  known  to  the  botanist  alone.  All  that 
we  have  described  and  recommended  have,  with  a  few 
exceptions,  passed  under  our  own  observation,  and  are 
such  as  are  worthy  of  cultivation,  either  for  beauty  of 
flower,  foliage  or  habit,  together  with  those  celebrated  in 
arts  and  medicine.  Many  may,  possibly,  have  passed 
unobserved,  either  from  their  being  very  generally  known 
or  difficult  to  obtain ;  but  in  no  case  has  there  been  sup- 
pression from  business  prejudices.  Where  the  words 
"  our  collections,"  occur,  they  are  meant  for  those  of  the 
county  generally. 

All  our  observations  have  been  guided  by  dint  of  prac- 
tice ;  and,  although  others  may  differ,  this  is  designedly 
and  professedly  given  as  the  result  of  our  own  experience. 
The  plan  lakl  down  is  our  own  routine  of  culture  ;  the 
soils  are  those  which  we  adopt ;  but,  at  the  same  time, 
conceding  that  every  art  and  profession  is  subject  to  im- 
provement, and  none  more  so  than  American  horticulture. 
The  table  of  soils  was  originally  constructed  at  the  expense 
of  much  investigation  and  labour,  and  has,  also,  in  this 
edition,  undergone  considerable  improvement.  To  every 
one  that  has  but  a  single  plant,  it  will  be  found  invaluable. 
Although  the  publications  in  Europe  on  Gardening  and 
Floriculture  are  profuse,  yet  many  of  their  directions, 
when  practised  in  the  United  States,  prove  almost  a  dead 
letter, — not  so  with  their  architectural  and  horticultural 
designs.  The  estates  of  the  wealthy  are  susceptible  of 
great  improvement ;  they  want  more  of  the  picturesque, 
and  (to  use  the  word  of  the  veteran  pioneer  of  horticul- 
ture) gardenesque  effect,  to  relieve  their  premises  from 
the  monotonous  erections  and  improvements  which  seem 
to  govern  all.  On  culture,  a  work  adapted  to  the  climate 
must  (and  no  other  can)  be  the  guide  in  this  country  :  on 
this  account,  a  work  like  the  present  has  been  a  desidera- 
tum to  aid  the  very  rapid  advancement  of  the  culture  of 
flowers  among  the  intelligent  of  our  flourishing  republic. 

R.  BUIST. 
PHILADELPHIA,  July,  1845. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

JTLOWKH  GARDEN,        -  -  -  .  .  -       13 

JANUARY. 

Of  Framing, 17 

Of  Pruning,  ......  13 

FEBRUARY. 

Of  Pruning,     .......       19 

Of  Planting  Shrubs,  .....  21 

Of  Hyacinths,  &c.       -  -  -  -  .  -24 

MARCH. 

Of  Framing,    -            -            -            -            -            .  -25 

List  of  Choice  Annuals  for  a  Hot-Bed,  27 

List  of  Choice  Hardy  Annuals,          -            -            -  -      29 

Box  Edgings,         ......  33 

Grass  and  other  Edgings,        -            -            -            -  -      33 

List  of  Hardy  Biennials,                ....  34 

List  of  Hardy  Perennials,       -            •            -            -  -       35 

Bulbous  Roots,      ......  48 

Carnations,  Pinks,  Primroses,  &c.,     -  -      49 

Auriculas,             ......  50 

Ranunculus  and  Anemone,     -            -            -            -  50 

Roses,        ......  51 

Roses,  climbing,          -            -            -            -            -  -       55 

Deciduous  ornamental  flowering  Shrubs,             -            -  56 

Grass  Plats  and  Walks, 56 

Gravel  Walks, 58 

Grafting,          -            -            -            -            -            -  -59 

APRIL. 

Annuals,         -  -  •  •  -  -  -60 

Hybrid  Chinese  Roses,      •  •  -  -  -  61 

Perpetual  Roses,         ......      64 


Vlll  CONTENTS. 


Grafting  Roses,     -            -           -            -            -           -  66 

Bourbon  Roses,           -            -            -            -            -  -       67 

Bengal  Roses,        ......  68 

Tea  Roses,       -            -            -            -            -            -  -      71 

Noisette  Roses,     ......  74 

Musk  Roses,    .......      77 

Climbing  Roses,   ......  78 

Microphylla  Roses,     -            -            -            -            -  -       81 

Climbing  Plants, - 

Deciduous  and  Evergreen  Shrubs,     -            -            -  87 
Care  of  Choice  Bulbs,       - 

Anemone  and  Ranunculus,     -            -            -            -  -      90 
Auricula,  -                         .....91 

Carnation  and  Pink,   ....  92 

Culture  of  Heartsease,      .....  93 

Jacobsea  Lily  and  Tiger  Flower,         -            -            -  -      96 

Walks, 97 

Evergreen  Hedges,         -                     -            -            -  -      98 

Box  Edgings,        ......  99 

MAY. 

Dahlia,  propagation  of,  by  cuttings,    ....     101 

Dahlia,  propagation  of,  by  grafting,          -            -            -  102 

Dahlias,  List  of,        .....  -     104 

Dahlias,  Character  of,        -            -            -            -            -  107 

Care  of  Hyacinths  and  Tulips,            -  -     109 

Auricula  and  Polyanthus,             -                         -  110 

Primrose  and  Wallflower,      -            -            -            -  -     110 

JUNE  AND  JULY. 

Autumn  Flowering  Bulbs,      -            -                         -  -     111 

Carnations  and  Pinks,      ..... 

Budding  Roses,           -            -            -            -            -  -114 

Watering, 116 

AUGUST. 

Evergreen  Hedges,     -            -            -            -            -  -     116 

Carnations,  Pinks  and  Bulbous  Roots,      -            -            -  117 

Sowing  Seeds  of  Bulbous  Roots,         -                         -  -     118 

SEPTEMBER. 

Preparation  of  Beds  for  Bulbous  Roots,         -  -     119 

Sowing  and  Saving  Seeds,            -                                      -  120 

OCTOBER. 

Of  Planting  Bulbous  and  Tuberous  Roots,     -            -  -     121 

Of  Planting  Evergreens,               ....  126 


CONTENTS.  IX 


NOVEMBER. 

Of  Taking  up  Dahlia  Roots,    -            -            -            -  -127 

Of  Taking  up  Tuberoses,  Tigridias,&c.,              -            -  128 

Of  Carnations,  Pinks,  Pansies  and  Auriculas,            -  -     129 

Of  Protecting  Plants,       .....  130 

Of  Planting  Deciduous  Trees  and  Shrubs,     -  -     130 

DECEMBER. 

General  Observations,  ...  .     131 

HOTHOUSE. 
Construction  of  a  Hothouse,  -  -     133 

JANUARY. 

Firing  and  Fuel,          ......  137 

Watering,                                       -  138 

Of  Insects — their  Destruction,             -                                      -  139 

Of  cleansing  Plants,  House,  &c.,                                      -  143 

FEBRUARY. 

Of  repotting  Plants,     -  ....     145 

Of  Cleansing  Plants-,  House,  &c.,  -  -  147 

MARCH. 

Of  Repotting  Plants,  -     H8 

APRIL. 
Of  Repotting  Cactae,  -  -     149 

MAY. 

Of  Repotting  Plants,   -  -  -  150 

Of  bringing  out  the  Hothouse  Plants,       ...  178 

Of  Succulents,  -  -  -  -  -  -     179 

JUNE  AND  JULY. 
General  Observations,  -.          -  -  -     180 

AUGUST. 
Of  Painting  and  Repairing  the  Hothouse,       ...     181 

SEPTEMBER. 
Of  Dressing  and  taking  in  the  Plants,  ...     182 


X  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

OCTOBER. 

General  Observations,            -            -                                    -  183 

NOVEMBER. 

Of  a  Cistern  and  Water,         -                        -                        -  185 
DECEMBER. 

Of  Shutters,     -                                                                            -  186 

General  Observations,       .....  187 

Of  Air  Plants,                          -                                                -  187 

GREENHOUSE. 

On  the  Construction  of  a  Greenhouse,           -                        -  191 

JANUARY. 

General  Observations,                         -            -            -            -  192 

Of  Watering  Camellias,  &c.,        -  193 

Of  Cleaning  Oranges  and  Lemons,    ....  194 

Of  Cape  and  other  Bulbs,             ....  195 

FEBRUARY. 

Of  Cape  Bulbs, 196 

Of  Camellia  Japonica,      -                        -  197 

MARCH. 

General  Observations,            ...  200 

Of  Geraniums,      -                         -  201 

Of  Herbaceous  Plants  and  Cape  Bulbs,          -                         -  202 

Of  Enarching  or  Grafting  by  Approach,         ...  268 

APRIL. 

Of  Watering,  -                                                                        -  270 

Of  Oranges,  Lemons,  &c.,                                      -            -  271 

Of  Myrtles,  Oleanders  and  Geraniums,           ...  272 

Of  Flowering  Stocks,        .....  274 

MAY. 

Of  bringing  out  the  Greenhouse  Plants,         -                         -  275 

Of  Repotting  Plants,         .....  276 

Of  Camellias  and  Cape  Bulbs,           -            -            -            -  278 


CONTENTS.  XI 
PAG* 

JUNE  AND  JULY. 

General  Observations,  -  -  -  -  -279 

AUGUST. 

Of  Geraniums,                                       -            -            -            -  280 

Of  Oranges  and  Lemons,               ....  281 

Of  Pruning  Lemons, 282 

Of  Repotting  Bulbs, 283 

SEPTEMBER. 

Of  Repairing  the  Greenhouse,       ....  285 

Of  Preparing  for  taking  in  the  Plants,            -            -            -  286 

Of  Chrysanthemums,        .....  287 

Of  Cape  and  Holland  Bulbs,              -            -           -            -  287 

OCTOBER. 

Of  taking  in  and  arranging  the  Plants,           ...  290 

Of  Repotting,         -                         ....  291 

Of  Camellias,               ......  293 

Of  Sowing  Camellia  Seeds,           ....  294 

NOVEMBER. 

Of  Air  and  Water, 295 

General  Observations,       -----  295 

DECEMBER. 

General  Observations,            -            -           -            -            -  296 

Of  Bulbous  Roots,              .....  297 

ROOMS. 

Treatment  of  Plants  in  Rooms,          -  -  -        298—316 

On  the  Culture  of  the  Grape,        -  -  -  317—333 


THE 


AMERICAN  FLOWER  GARDEN 
DIRECTORY. 


ON  LAYING  OUT  A  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

THE  Flower  Garden  is  chiefly  devoted  to  the  cultivation 
of  showy  flowering  plants,  shrubs  and  trees,  either  natives 
of  this  country  or  those  of  a  foreign  clime :  it  is  a  refined 
appendage  to  a  country  seat,  "suburban"  villa,  or  city  re- 
sidence ;  every  age  has  had  its  principles  of  taste,  and 
every  country  its  system  of  gardening.  Our  limits  do  not 
permit  us  to  enter  minutely  into  the  details  of  any  of  these 
systems,  but  a  few  hints  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  those 
whose  design  is  the  laying  out  or  improvement  of  the  gar- 
den. The  Italian  style  is  characterized  by  broad  terraces 
and  parallele  walks,  having  the  delightful  shade  and  agree- 
able fragrance  of  the  orange  and  the  myrtle.  Terraces  may 
be  advantageously  adopted  to  surmount  steep  declivities ; 
and,  if  judiciously  laid  out,  would  convert  a  sterile  bank 
into  a  beautiful  promenade,  or  choice  flower  garden. 

The  French  partially  adopt  the  above  system,  interspers- 
ing it  with  parterres  and  figures  of  statuary  work  of  every 
character  and  description.  When  such  is  well  designed 
and  neatly  executed,  it  has  a  lively  and  interesting  effect ; 
but  now  the  refined  taste  says  these  vagaries  are  too  fan- 
tastic, and  entirely  out  of  place.  A  late  writer  says  of 
Dutch  gardening,  that  it  "  is  rectangular  formality  :"  they 
take  great  pride  in  trimming  their  trees  of  yew,  holly,  and 
other  evergreens,  into  every  variety  of  form,  such  as  mops, 
2 


14  ON  LAYING  OUT  A  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

moons,  halberds,  chairs,  &c.  In  such  a  system  it  is  in- 
dispensable to  order  that  the  compartments  correspond  in 
formality,  nothing  being  more  offensive  to  the  eye  than 
incongruous  mixtures  of  character. 

The  beauty  of  English  gardening  consists  in  an  artful 
imitation  of  nature,  and  is  consequently  much  dependent 
on  aspect  and  locality.  It  is  a  desideratum  where  wood 
and  water  can  be  combined  with  the  flower  garden,  and 
the  practical  eye  can  dispose  of  an  object  to  advantage  by 
interspersing  shrubbery  and  walks,  that  the  combined  ob- 
jects form  an  agreeable  whole.  They  are  not  to  be  disposed 
with  a  view  to  their  appearance  in  a  picture,  but  to  the  use 
and  enjoyment  of  them  in  real  life. 

We  will  now  endeavour  to  give  an  explicit  exposition  of 
a  system  adapted  to  our  variable  climate  of  extreme  heat 
and  excessive  cold.  Where  choice  of  aspects  can  be  ob- 
tained, preference  should  be  given  to  a  south-east  or  east; 
but,  if  not,  south  or  south-west,  and,  if  possible,  sheltered 
by  rising  ground  or  full  grown  woods  from  the  north-west 
and  north.  But  to  lay  down  directions  for  a. flower  garden 
is  not  a  little  difficult,  seeing  that  there  cannot  be  any  given 
area  or  any  description  of  local  circumstances  applicable 
to  all  situations.  A  good  soil  is  the  sure  foundation  on 
which  to  rear  the  grand  floral  superstructure,  and  the  most 
genial  is  a  sandy  loam :  I  mean  by  sandy  loam  a  soil  which 
contains  from  one-sixth  to  one-tenth  of  sand ;  and  if  on  a 
gravelly  or  sandy  bottom,  so  much  the  better.  Where  the 
general  surface  is  gently  undulating,  it  will  greatly  add  to 
the  beauty  of  arrangement ;  if  access  to  a  spring  can  be  ob- 
tained, it  will  prove  a  desideratum  in  completing  the  whole: 
it  can  be  available  for  a  fish-pond  or  an  aquarium,  or  can  be 
converted  into  a  swamp  for  the  cultivation  of  many  of  our 
most  beautiful  and  interesting  native  plants,  such  as  Haba- 
naria,  Lilium,  Sarracenia,  Dionea,  &c.,  and  on  the  margin 
of  which  (if  partially  shaded)  can  be  planted  the  beautiful 
varieties  of  Azaleas,  and  the  splendid  flowering  Rho- 
dodendron, which,  by  the  by,  are  almost  entirely  neglected 
in  all  our  floral  decorations.  With  many,  the  arrangement 
of  a  flower  garden  is  rather  a  matter  for  the  exercise  of 
fancy,  than  one  calling  for  the  application  of  refined  taste : 
true,  it  may  be  said  there  is  no  mathematical  law  to  guide 
the  designer,  so  that  if  he  avoid  incongruity  of  arrange- 


ON  LAYING  OUT  A  FLOWER  GARDEN.          15 

ment  the  end  is  accomplished.  But,  in  commencing  these 
operations,  a  design  should  be  kept  in  view  that  will  tend 
to  expand,  improve  and  beautify  the  situation  ;  not,  as  we 
too  frequently  see  it,  the  parterre  and  borders  with  narrow 
walks  up  to  the  very  household  entrance :  such  is  decided- 
ly bad  taste,  unless  compelled  for  want  of  room.  For  per- 
spicuity, admit  that  the  area  to  be  enclosed  should  be  from 
one  to  three  acres,  a  circumambient  walk  should  be  traced 
at  some  distance  within  the  fence,  by  which  the  whole  is 
enclosed ;  the  inferior  walks  should  partly  circumscribe 
and  intersect  the  general  surface  in  an  easy  serpentine  and 
sweeping  manner,  and  at  such  distances  as  would  allow  an 
agreeable  view  of  the  flowers  when  walking  for  exercise. 
Walks  may  be  in  breadth  from  three  to  twenty  feet,  although 
from  four  to  ten  feet  is  generally  adopted ;  and,  to  have 
these  dry  and  permanent,  those  that  are  to  be  much  used 
should  have  six  to  eight  inches  of  the  bottom  soil  dug  out 
in  a  concave  manner,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  concave  dig 
out  a  trench  of  about  nine  inches  square  to  form  a  drain, 
which  may  be  made  with  brick  or  filled  with  rough  stone, 
and  the  concave  may  be  filled  with  refuse  of  buildings  or 
broken  stone  within  three  inches  of  the  desired  height, 
which  should  be  covered  with  gravel,  and  then  firmly  rolled 
with  a  heavy  roller.  Where  the  gravel  cannot  be  obtained 
sand  may  be  used,  mixed  with  a  few  small  stones  to  bind 
it,  but  such  needs  very  repeated  rolling.  Walks,  such  as 
described,  when  completely  finished,  will  last  for  ages  ;  but 
many  will  not  be  disposed  to  go  to  such  expense :  to  those 
we  say  use  tanner's  bark,  which  is  very  cheap  and  ac- 
cessible to  all.  The  outer  margin  of  the  garden  should  be 
planted  with  the  largest  trees  and  shrubs  :  the  interior  ar- 
rangement may  be  in  detached  groups  of  shrubbery  and 
parterres.  In  order  that  the  whole  should  not  partake  of 
an  uniform  and  graduated  character,  it  should  be  broken 
and  diversified  by  single  trees  planted  in  the  turf,  or  aris- 
ing in  scattered  groups  from  a  base  of  shrubs.  In  some 
secluded  spot  rock-work  or  a  fountain,  or  both,  may  be 
erected;  the  foundation  of  the  former  should  consist  of 
mounds  of  earth,  which  will  answer  the  purpose  of  more 
solid  erections,  and  will  make  the  stones  go  farther :  rocks 
of  the  same  kind  and  colour  should  be  placed  together,  and 
the  greatest  possible  variety  of  character,  size  and  form, 


16         ON  LAYING  OUT  A  FLOWER  GARDEN. 

should  be  studied,  the  whole  showing  an  evident  and  well- 
defined  connection.  These  erections  generally  are  stiff 
artificial  disjointed  masses,  and  often  decorated  with  plants 
having  no  affinity  to  their  arid  location.  The  undertaking, 
when  well  completed,  will  present  a  field  of  varied  and  in- 
teresting study,  and  more  than  compensate  for  the  labour 
and  expense  bestowed  upon  it.  If  it  is  desired  that  the 
flower  garden  should  be  a  botanical  study,  there  should  be 
some  botanical  arrangement  adopted. 

The  Linnean  system  is  the  most  easily  acquired.  A 
small  compartment  laid  out  in  beds  might  contain  plants  of 
all  the  twenty-four  classes,  and  a  few  of  all  the  hardy  orders 
which  do  not  exceed  one  hundred.  Or,  to  have  their  na- 
tural characters  more  assimilated,  the  Jussieuean  system 
could  be  carried  into  effect  by  laying  down  a  grass  plat  to 
any  extent  above  one  quarter  of  an  acre,  and  cut  therein 
small  figures  to  contain  the  natural  families,  which  of  hardy 
plants  we  do  not  suppose  wrould  exceed  one  hundred  and 
fifty.  The  difficulties  of  this  arrangement  are,  that  many 
of  the  characters  are  imperfectly  known  even  to  the  most 
scientific.  (Professor  Lindley  has  given  additional  light 
on  the  subject  by  his  last  publication.)  All  the  large  divi- 
s,ions  should  be  intersected  by  small  alleys,  or  paths,  about 
one  and  a  half  or  two  feet  wide.  When  there  is  not  a 
green-house  attached  to  the  flower  garden,  there  should  be 
at  least  a  few  sashes  of  framing  or  a  forcing  pit  to  bring 
forward  early  annuals,  &c.,  for  early  blooming.  These 
should  be  situate  in  some  spot  detached  from  the  garden 
by  a  fence  of  Roses,  trained  to  trellises,  Chinese  Arbour 
vitse,  Privet,  or  even  Maclura  makes  excellent  fences  ;  and, 
when  properly  trimmed,  are  very  ornamental :  they  require 
to  be  neatly  and  carefully  clipped  with  shears  every  Sep- 
tember. In  the  southern  states  Noisette  and  China  Roses, 
with  a  profusion  of  Sweetbriar,  would  make  the  most 
beautiful  of  all  fences,  and  could  be  very  easily  obtained : 
a  fence  three  hundred  feet  long  would  only  cost  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty  dollars.  Frames  for  forcing  should 
be  made  of  plank  two  inches  thick,  and  well  put  together ; 
the  sash  should  be  from  five  to  seven  feet  long,  and  from 
three  to  four  feet  wide,  and  filled  with  six  by  eight  glass. 
In  the  framing  ground  should  be  kept  the  various  soils 
required  for  plants,  and  also  various  characters  of  manure 


/an.]  FRAMING.  17 

at  all  times  ready  for  use,  the  whole  in  regular  heaps, 
and  kept  free  from  weeds.  Having  given  these  brief 
outlines  of  a  flower  garden,  we  now  proceed  to  give 
monthly  directions  for  planting  and  keeping  the  same  in 
order. 


JANUARY. 

IF  the  covering  of  the  beds  of  choice  bulbs,  herbaceous 
plants,  or  tender  shrubs,  has  been  neglected  last  month,  let 
it  be  done  forthwith.  The  season  is  now  precarious  and 
delays  are  dangerous.  For  particular  directions,  see  De- 
cember. Any  bulbous  roots  that  have  been  kept  out  of  the 
ground  should  be  planted  immediately,  according  to  direc- 
tions in  October.  Some  writers  have  recommended  keep- 
ing some  of  the  bulbs  until  this  month,  in  order  to  have  a 
continued  succession.  Experience  will  prove  the  ineffi- 
cacy  of  the  plan,  and  will  satisfactorily  show  that  the  dif- 
ference is  almost  imperceptible,  while  the  flowers  are  very 
inferior  and  much  degenerated;  and  in  place  of  having 
"  a  long-continued  succession  of  bloom,"  there  appear, 
along  with  your  finest  specimens,  very  imperfect  flowers, 
calculated  to  discourage  the  admirers  of  these  "  gaudy" 
decoratives  of  our  flower  gardens.  Whereas,  every  art 
employed  should  be  to  the  advancement  and  perfection  of 
nature. 


OF  FRAMING,  &c. 

The  plants  and  roots  that  are  in  frames,  should  be  pro- 
tected with  straw  mats  and  boards,  and  the  frame  surround- 
ed with  litter,  or  leaves,  or,  what  is  more  advisable,  banked 
with  turf — the  former  being  a  harbour  for  mice  and  other 
vermin.  For  full  directions,  see  December.  Under  this 
head  the  plants,  such  as  Auriculas,  Polyanthus,  Daisies, 
Carnations,  Pinks,  Pentstemons,  Campanula  pyrami- 
dalis,  Double  rocket,  Double  stock,  or  Stockgillys,  Double 
2* 


18  OF  PRUNING.  [Jan. 

Wall-flower,  Anemone,  Ranunculus,  &c.,  as  previously 
enumerated  as  frame  plants,  will  require  very  little  water, 
and  be  sure  to  give  none  while  they  are  in  a  frozen  state. 
If  snow  should  cover  them,  the  plants  will  keep  in  a  fine 
state  under  it,  so  never  remove  snow  from  covering  cold 
frames,  even  suppose  it  should  lie  for  weeks, — nature  will 
operate  here  herself.  But  when  framing  cannot  be  obtain- 
ed, they  will  in  this  latitude  keep  tolerably,  if  gently  co- 
vered with  leaves  or  litter,  using  means  to  secure  them 
from  being  blown  over  the  garden. 


OF  PRUNING. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  carry  on  a  general  system  of  prun- 
ing in  this  month,  in  whatever  state  the  weather  may  be. 
The  severest  frosts  generally  are  yet  to  come,  and  too  fre- 
quently what  is  done  now  in  this  operation  has  to  be 
repeated  in  the  spring,  causing,  at  that  time,  work  to  a 
disadvantage;  because,  if  "pruning,  when  done  just  now, 
is  accomplished  judiciously,  whatever  more  is  requisite  to 
be  done  in  the  spring  on  the  same  bush,  will  be  injudi- 
cious. Hence,  it  is  far  preferable  to  delay  it  till  the  frost 
is  nearly  over,  when  all  can  be  done  to  advantage.  There 
are,  undoubtedly,  hardy  trees  and  some  shrubs,  that  may 
be  pruned  and  thinned  out  at  any  time  from  the  first  of 
November  to  the  first  of  March ;  such  as  Cratoegus,  Sor- 
bus,  Spirea  and  even  Althea,  in  the  middle  states  ;  (the 
Double  white  Althea  is  very  tender  and  requires  to  be  co- 
vered.) The  tying  together  the  loose  branches  of  Juniper, 
Cedar  and  Arbour  vitse  should  be  particularly  attended  to, 
as  heavy  snow  frequently  destroys  the  shape  of  those  hand- 
some shrubs  by  breaking  down  the  branches,  &c. — When 
the  snow  is  heavy,  the  precaution  of  shaking  it  off  should 
be  resorted  to.  In  many  seasons,  the  beginning  of  this 
month  is  open  and  admits  of  the  operation  of  digging  in 
open  quarters,  which  if  not  done,  as  advised  last  month, 
ought  not  to  be  delayed.  The  fruits  of  it  will  appear  in 
the  mellowed  state  of  your  soil  in  spring. 

If  there  is  any  spare  time,  tallies,  straight  sticks  or  stakes, 
may  be  prepared  for  summer  use.  Tie  them  up  in  neat 
bundles,  which  will  be  of  great  service  during  the  hurried 


Feb.~]  OF  PRUNING,  «fec.  19 

period  of  the  year.  An  opportunity  of  this  kind  should 
always  be  laid  hold  of;  the  beneficial  results  will  in  season 
be  displayed. 


FEBRUARY. 

WHEN  the  borders  and  various  compartments  were  dug 
in  the  autumn,  and  compost,  or  a  thin  coating  of  well  de- 
composed manure  given,  the  advantage  will  now,  in  part, 
be  experienced.  If  the  weather  is  open  about  the  end  of 
the  month,  the  pruning  should  be  done  with  the  utmost 
despatch,  that  all  may  be  prepared  for  a  general  dressing 
next  month,  and  let  nothing  be  delayed  which  can  now  pro- 
perly be  accomplished,  under  the  idea  that  there  is  time 
enough. 


OF  PRUNING,  &c. 

Generally,  about  the  end  of  the  month,  the  very  severe 
frosts  are  over,  and  when  none  need  be  apprehended  that 
would  materially  injure  hardy  shrubs,  they  may  be  freely 
pruned,  and  the  points  cut  of  such  shoots  as  may  have  been 
damaged  by  the  winter.  Most  of  shrubs  require  nothing 
more  than  to  be  thinned  of  straggling,  irregular  and  injured 
branches,  or  of  suckers  that  rise  round  the  root,  observing, 
that  they  do  not  intermingle  with  each  other.  Never  trim 
them  up  in  a  formal  manner;  regular  shearing  of  shrubs, 
and  topiary  work,  have  been  expelled  as  unworthy  a  taste, 
the  least  improved  by  reflections  on  beauty,  simplicity  and 
grandeur  of  nature. 

In  fact,  the  pruning  of  deciduous  hardy  shrubs,  should 
be  done  in  such  a  manner  as  not  to  be  observable  when  the 
plants  are  covered  with  verdure.  It  may  frequently  be  ob- 
served in  flower  gardens,  that  roses  and  shrubs  of  every 
description  are  indiscriminately  cut  with  the  shears,  the 
dmorphas,  Viburnums  and  Altheas  sharing  the  same  fate. 

Robinias,  Coluteas,  Cyticus,  RMs,  Genistas,  with  seve- 


30  OF  PRUNING,  &c.  [Feb. 

ral  of  the  Viburnums,  and  many  others,  bear  their  flowers 
on  the  wood  of  last  year,  and  when  thus  sheared  afford  no 
gratification  in  flowering.  And  those  shrubs  that  thus 
flower  on  the  shoots  of  last  year,  are  perhaps  worse  to  keep 
in  regular  order  than  those  to  which  the  knife  can  be 
freely  applied;  but  good  management  while  young  will 
ensure  handsome  free  flowering  plants. 

Climbing  shrubs,  and  others  that  are  trained  against  out- 
buildings, walls,  or  such  as  are  sheltered  thereby,  and  not 
now  in  danger  of  suffering  by  frost,  may  be  pruned  and 
dressed.  These  should  be  neatly  trimmed,  and  the  branches 
moderately  thinned  out,  tying  in  all  the  shoots  straight  and 
regular.  Avoid,  at  all  times,  the  crossing  of  any  shoots. 

There  is  not  a  shrub  in  the  garden  that  agrees  so  well 
with  close  cutting,  as  the  Mthea,  and  all  its  varieties. 
These  can  be  made  either  bushes  or  trees,  and  kept  at  any 
desired  height.  Where  the  wood  of  last  year  is  cut  to 
about  two  or  three  inches  from  the  wood  of  the  former  year, 
the  young  shoots  of  the  coming  season  will  produce  the 
largest  and  finest  flowers,  and  likewise  more  profusely. 
When  they  have  attained  the  desired  height,  let  them  be 
kept  in  the  most  natural  and  handsome  shape  that  the  taste 
of  the  operator  can  suggest.  They  will  bear  cutting  to  any 
degree. 

Honeysuckles  of  every  description  may,  with  all  free- 
dom, be  trimmed,  providing  the  frost  is  not  very  severe. 
These  are  very  frequently  allowed  to  become  too  crowded 
with  wood,  and  then  superficially  sheared  or  cut.  The 
flowers  would  be  much  finer,  and  the  brush  handsomer,  if 
they  were  regularly  thinned  out,  divesting  them  of  all  na- 
ked and  superfluous  shoots.  Of  those  that  remain,  shorten 
the  shoots  of  last  year.  Where  any  of  the  honeysuckle 
kind  has  become  naked  at  the  bottom,  and  flowering  only 
at  the  top  of  the  trellis,  or  extremities  of  the  shoots,  one 
half  of  the  bush  should  be  cut  to  within  four  inches  of  the 
ground.  It  will  throw  out  plenty  of  fine  young  wood,  which 
give  room  for,  and  train  them  straight,  and  to  the  full  ex- 
tent, during  summer.  These  shoots  will  flower  profusely 
the  following  season,  and  in  like  manner,  when  thought 
proper,  the  other  half  can  be  cut. 

Roses  of  the  hardy  kinds  (termed  garden  roses)  that 
were  not  attended  to  in  November,  should,  if  the  weather 


OF  PLANTING  SHRUBS,  &C.  21 

permit,  be  dressed  and  pruned  forthwith.  In  small  gar- 
dens, where  these  are  generally  attached  to  the  walls  and 
fences,  neatness  should  be  a  very  particular  object.  If  any 
of  such  bushes  have  got  strong  and  irregular,  the  most 
proper  method  to  bring  them  to  order,  will  be  to  cut  down 
each  alternate  shoot  of  the  bush  to  within  a  few  inches  of 
the  surface,  thereby  renovating  it,  and,  in  part,  preserving 
the  flowers.  Those  that  are  cut  down  will  put  out  several 
luxuriant  shoots,  which  must  be  regularly  tacked  in, 
spreading  them  in  a  fan  shape.  These,  in  another  year, 
will  flower  well,  when  the  others  may  go  through  the  same 
operation.  Thus,  in  two  or  three  years,  the  bushes  will 
have  resumed  a  different,  and  more  agreeable  aspect.  By 
the  above  treatment,  these  ornaments  of  the  garden  will 
always  have  a  neat  and  healthful  appearance,  and  the  roses 
will  be  much  finer.  Where  they  are  intended  for  the  bor- 
ders, they  should  never  be  allowed  to  get  too  high.  In  a 
border  from  four  to  six  feet,  they  ought  never  to  exceed 
four  feet  at  the  back  of  the  border,  and  in  front  one  foot, 
after  being  pruned ;  they  can  be  kept  down  by  the  above 
method.  It  is  not  advisable  to  cut  down  rose  bushes  all  at 
once,  unless  no  regard  is  paid  to  flowering.  The  roses  that 
are  in  grass  plats,  and  interspersed  through  the  garden, 
would  have  a  superior  appearance  in  every  respect,  if  they 
were  kept  and  trimmed  like  small  trees.  They  may  be  of 
different  sizes  and  heights,  according  to  the  distance  they 
are  from  the  walk.  A  single  stem  may  arise  from  six 
inches  to  six  feet,  with  a  head  in  proportion  to  the  height 
of  the  stem.  Where  it  is  necessary  to  have  them  above 
two  feet,  and  likewise  to  carry  a  good  head,  inoculation 
must  be  resorted  to,  which,  in  the  months  of  July  and  Au- 
gust, will  be  fully  treated  of.  All  under  two  feet  (except 
the  weak  growing  kinds)  will  do  on  their  own  stems,  tak- 
ing care  not  to  allow  shoots  to  arise  from  the  bottom  during 
the  summer.  For  directions  for  pruning  climbing  roses, 
see  March  and  April.  - 


OF  PLANTING  SHRUBS,  &c. 

As  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  these  should  be 
planted  if  the  soil  is  not  too  wet.     Where  soil  is  binding, 


22  OF  PLANTING  SHRUBS,  &C. 

upon  no  consideration  plant  it  while  wet,  rather  defer  it 
until  the  end  of  March. 

Trees  and  shrubs,  if  they  are  well  arranged,  are  the  chief 
ornaments,  give  the  most  pleasure,  and  afford  the  greatest 
delight  that  we  enjoy  in  our  gardens.  Although  they  give 
no  sort  of  nourishment,  nor  produce  any  edible  fruits,  yet 
they  are  particularly  grateful  and  conducive  to  our  enjoy- 
ments. Our  walks  in  summer  would  be  oppressive,  but 
for  their  agreeable  shade  ;  in  the  fall  and  winter,  we  would 
be  left  exposed  to  the  chilling  winds,  but  for  the  shelter 
they  afford. 

Likewise  they  produce  a  great  variety  of  flowers,  a  va- 
ried foliage,  and  are  standing  ornaments  that  give  no  great 
trouble.  In  the  character  of  screens  they  are  particularly 
useful,  whether  to  hide  disagreeable  objects,  or  as  a  guard 
against  the  weather ;  or,  if  they  are  planted  in  masses  at 
a  distance,  they  soon  become  agreeable  objects,  frequently 
very  much  improve  the  scenery  of  the  place,  become  ob- 
jects of  utility  as  well  as  ornament,  and,  in  such  case, 
afford  the  highest  satisfaction.  When  formed  so  as  to  ex- 
clude offices  from  the  view  of  the  house,  or  for  sheltering 
the  latter,  or  for  connecting  the  house  with  the  garden, 
orchard,  or  any  similar  purpose,  shrubs  are  both  useful  and 
interesting. 

Where  many  shrubs  are  to  be  planted,  the  disposing  of 
them  properly  is  a  matter  of  considerable  importance  to  the 
future  welfare  of  the  whole ;  and,  whether  deciduous  or 
evergreens  be  mixed  or  grouped,  that  is,  indiscriminately 
planted  together,  or  the  evergreens  planted  by  themselves, 
as  is  frequently  done,  a  regular  and  natural  arrangement  is 
indispensable  for  establishing  ornament. 

Arranging,  no  doubt,  depends  very  much  on  fancy ;  still, 
there  ought  always  to  be  plenty  of  evergreens  planted,  that 
the  whole  may  be  more  cheerful  in  winter. 

If  shrubberies  were  made  to  a  great  extent,  the  scenery 
would  be  much  more  varied  and  characteristic  by  grouping 
judiciously  than  by  indiscriminately  planting. 

However,  in  small  flower  gardens  and  shrubberies,  the 
latter  has  to  be  adopted.  In  such  places,  tall  growing  kinds 
should  never  be  introduced,  unless  merely  as  a  screen  from 
some  disagreeable  object,  for  they  crowd  and  confuse  the 
whole.  The  dwarf  and  more  bushy  sorts  should  be  placed 


Feb.~]  OF  PLANTING  SHRUBS,  &C.  23 

nearest  to  the  eye,  in  order  that  they  may  conceal  the  naked 
stems  of  the  others.  Generally  when  shrubs  are  planted, 
they  are  small ;  therefore,  to  have  a  good  effect  from  the  be- 
ginning, they  should  be  planted  closer  than  they  are  in- 
tended to  stand.  When  they  have  grown  a  few  years,  and 
interfere  with  each  other,  they  can  be  lifted,  and  such  as 
have  died,  or  become  sickly,  replaced,  and  the  remainder 
can  be  planted  in  some  other  direction.  Keep  them  always 
distinct,  one  from  another,  in  order  that  they  may  be  the 
better  shown  off.  But  if  it  is  not  desired  that  they  should 
be  thicker  planted  than  it  is  intended  to  let  them  remain, 
the  small  growing  kinds  may  be  six  or  eight  feet  apart ;  the 
larger,  or  taller  sorts,  ten  to  twenty  feet,  according  to  the 
condition  of  the  soil. 

Thick  masses  of  shrubbery,  called  thickets,  are  some- 
times wanted.  In  these  there  should  be  plenty  of  ever- 
greens. A  mass  of  deciduous  shrubs  has  no  imposing 
effect  during  winter ;  and,  as  this  is  not  the  proper  season 
for  planting  evergreens,  (April,  and  the  end  of  September, 
or  first  of  October  being  best,)  small  stakes  can  be  placed 
in  the  destined  spot.  Planting  in  rows,  or  in  any  plan  of 
a  formal  character,  should  at  all  times  be  avoided. 

In  planting  at  this  season,  observe  that  the  roots  are  not 
much  exposed  to  the  air,  especially  if  the  wind  be  high  and 
sharp  ;  but  it  is  always  better,  if  possible,  to  defer  the  busi- 
ness until  good,  mild  weather.  According  to  directions  in 
November,  the  ground  will  be  well  prepared,  and  only  re- 
quires a  hole  dug  for  the  reception  of  the  roots,  which  must 
be  considerably  larger,  that  the  roots  may  not  be  in  the 
least  confined.  Break  the  earth  well  at  bottom,  put  in  as 
much  as  will  receive  the  plant  from  one  to  two  inches  (ac- 
cording to  its  size)  lower  than  it  has  previously  been  in  the 
Nursery.  If  any  of  the  roots  are  bruised  or  broken,  cut 
them  off;  then  place  the  plant  in  the  centre  of  the  hole, 
breaking  fine  all  the  soil  that  is  put  in,  at  the  same  time 
shaking  the  stem  a  little,  that  the  earth  may  mix  with  the 
roots ;  when  full  up,  press  all  the  soil  down  with  the  foot, 
that  it  may,  in  some  degree,  consolidate  about  the  roots, 
and  support  the  plant.  Tall  plants  should  have  a  good 
stake  for  support,  and  place  a  small  bandage  between  the 
stake  and  stem  of  the  shrub  or  tree,  where  the  tie  is  made, 
to  prevent  the  bark  from  suffering  by  friction.  Observe, 


24  OF  HYACINTH  AND  OTHER  BULBS.  [March. 

always,  before  planting,  if  the  soil  is  not  suitable,  to  supply 
that  which  is  congenial  to  the  nature  of  the  intended  plant. 
When  shrubs  or  trees  are  to  be  carried  to  any  distance,  the 
roots  should  be  carefully  kept  from  air,  by  tying  damp 
moss,  straw  or  mats  about  them,  as  circumstances  will  ad- 
mit: the  success,  in  part,  depends  on  due  attention  being 
paid,  to  prevent  the  roots  drying  before  planting.  Although 
we  have  given  the  above  directions  for  planting  in  this 
month,  it  will  frequently  occur,  that  they  can  only  be  put 
into  practice  during  the  next,  as  this  month  is  often  the 
severest  of  the  season. 


OF  HYACINTH  AND  OTHER  BULBS. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  month,  if  the  weather  proves 
favourable,  the  covering  should  be  partially  taken  off  from 
the  Hyacinths,  Tulips  and  other  bulbous  roots.  It  some- 
times occurs,  that,  by  careless  planting  in  the  autumn,  they 
are  thrown  above  ground  by  the  frost,  especially  if  the 
ground  is  inclined  to  moisture,  and  they  not  being  deep 
enough  planted :  if  such  is  the  case,  cover  them  with  de- 
cayed leaves,  old  tan,  or  soil,  whichever  is  most  convenient ; 
if  not  done,  the  sun  and  air  will  overpower  the  bulbs,  and 
although  the  fibres  have  hold  of  the  ground,  the  flowers 
will  be  miserably  weak. 


MARCH. 

As  soon  as  the  frost  is  entirely  gone,  uncover  all  plants 
or  shrubs  that  have  been  protected,  preserving  carefully 
such  of  the  materials  as  will  answer  the  same  purpose  next 
season.  Cut  off  all  decayed  shoots,  or  such  as  have  been 
hurt  by  the  frost.  The  Lagerstrosmias  will  flower  in 
greater  perfection,  if  they  are  pruned  closely ;  that  is,  cut 
the  shoots  of  last  year,  to  within  two  or  three  eyes  of  the 
wood  of  the  previous  year,  at  the  same  time  having  regard 
to  the  regular  and  natural  shape  of  the  bush.  Cut  off  the 


March.~]  OF  FRAMING.  25 

injured  foliage  of  any  of  the  evergreens  that  have  suffered 
by  the  severity  of  the  winter,  but  leave  every  green  part 
which  is  essential  to  the  support  of  these  kind  of  plants.  It 
is  expected  that  all  pruning  of  the  shrubbery  is  finished ; 
if  not,  get  all  expeditiously  done  according  to  directions 
given  in  the  preceding  months.  All  work  that  can  be 
clone  in  this  month,  should  not  be  delayed,  such  as  hoeing, 
digging,  raking  and  clearing  away  all  leaves  and  litter  of 
every  description  that  have  been  brought  or  blown  into  the 
garden  during  autumn  or  winter. 


OF  FRAMING. 

Where  it  is  desired  to  have  the  more  showy  annuals 
early  in  bloom,  it  is  necessary  to  prepare  a  hot-bed  frame, 
for  the  purpose  of  bringing  them  forward.  It  is  time, 
about  the  first  of  the  month,  to  collect  and  prepare  ma- 
nure for  the  desired  hot-bed ;  and,  as  that  operation,  in 
many  instances,  is  very  imperfectly  performed,  a  few  ob- 
servations on  the  subject  may  be  useful. 

Take  three  parts  of  fresh  hot  stable  manure,  with  one 
part  of  fresh  oak  leaves.  Have  a  sufficient  quantity  to  make 
the  intended  bed  or  beds  from  three  to  four  feet  high. 
Shake  and  mix  up  both  together  in  a  compact  conical  heap 
in  order  to  encourage  fermentation.  If  the  weather  is  cold 
and  windy,  cover  it  with  straw  or  leaves  and  boards,  which 
is  necessary  to  produce  the  desired  effect.  If  fermentation 
soon  takes  place,  it  will  need  to  be  thoroughly  turned  over 
in  eight  or  ten  days.  If  any  of  it  has  become  dry  and  musty 
from  excessive  heat,  as  you  proceed,  water  the  affected 
parts,  pile  all  up  neatly,  and  leave  it  protected  in  part  as 
before.  In  five  or  six  days  more,  it  will  fiave  to  be  turned 
again,  repeating  it  un.til  the  first  extreme  heat  has  been 
over.  In  neglect  of  this,  the  heat,  after  making  up  the  bed, 
will  be  vehement  for  a  week  or  two,  frequently  destroying 
the  vegetative  purity  of  the  soil,  and  proving  destructive 
to  the  seeds. 

Allowing  the  manure  to  come  to  a  lively  heat,  having 

no  unpleasant,  rancid  smell,  proceed  to  mark  off  your  in- 

tejided  bed,  running  it  east  and  west  as  nearly  as  possible, 

measure  your  frame,  and  allow  the  site  of  the  bed  eight 

3 


26  OF  FRAMING.  [March. 

inches  each  way  larger  than  the  frame  :  at  the  corners, 
place  a  stick  or  rod  perpendicularly.  The  ground  ought 
to  be  higher  than  that  around  it,  to  prevent  water  from  get- 
ting into  the  bed,  which,  if  low,  must  be  filled  up  ;  or,  if 
supposed  that  water  may  lodge  there,  a  little  brushwood 
might  be  put  under  the  manure,  which  would  keep  it  from 
being  inundated.  The  manure  must  be  built  up  square 
and  level,  shaking,  mixing  and  beating  it  regularly  with 
the  back  of  the  fork.  When  you  have  it  to  the  desired 
height,  (from  two  to  three  feet  will  be  sufficient  for  annu- 
als,) leave  the  centre  of  the  bed  a  little  higher  than  the 
sides,  thus  allowing  it  more  to  subside.  When  finished, 
put  on  the  frame  and  sash  or  sashes,  keep  them  close  until 
the  heat  arises,  covering  them  at  night  with  mats  or  shut- 
ters. As  soon  as  you  feel  the  heat  increased,  give  air  by 
tilting  the  sashes  a  few  inches  to  let  off  the  steam  and 
stagnated  air,  observing  to  close  in  the  afternoon,  and  cover 
at  night.  If  the  heat  is  violent,  about  half  an  inch  of  air 
might  be  left  during  the  night.  In  about  three  days,  if  all 
has  been  properly  attended  to,  the  bed  will  be  what  is 
termed  sweet.  Then  put  in  about  six  inches  of  fine  gar- 
den soil ;  if  heavy,  mix  a  little  sand  with  it.  Spread  it 
level,  and,  when  the  soil  is  heated  through,  sow  in  small 
drills  from  one-eighth  to  an  inch  deep,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  seeds  ;  cover  with  very  fine  sifted  soil.  Some 
very  small  kinds  do  best  when  sown  upon  the  surface. 
When  sown,  give  gentle  sprinklings  of  water  until  they 
come  up,  when  it  will  be  necessary  to  give  air  freely 
during  the  day  to  prevent  them  from  being  weak,  or  damp- 
ing off,  which  many  of  them  will  do  if  they  have  not  air 
regularly  admitted. 


March.']          LIST  OF  CHOICE  ANNUALS,  &c.  27 


LIST   OF  CHOICE   FLOWERING   ANNUALS 
ADAPTED  FOR  SOWING  ON  A  HOT-BED. 

Argeratum  Mexicanum,  blue  flowered  Argeratum. 
Asclepias  curassavica,  swallow  wort,  orange  and  red  flow- 

ered. 
Aster  Chinensis,  China  Aster,  or  Queen  Margarets,  in  great 

variety.     The  late  imported  German  Asters  are  of 

extraordinary  beauty. 
Anagallis  Phillipsii,  blue  Pimpernel. 
Balsamina   hortensis,   Balsam,   commonly   called   Ladies 

Slipper. 

Browallia  alata,  upright  blue  and  white  Browallia. 
Cacalia  coccinea,  scarlet  Cacalia,  or  Venus'  Paint  Brush. 

-  sonchifolia,  orange  Cacalia. 
Calandrinia  discolor,  rosy  purple,  very  pretty. 
Celosia  cristata,  Coxcomb,  two  varieties,  red  and  yellow. 
Centaurea  Americana,  American  Sultan. 

-  suaveolens,  yellow  sweet  Sultan. 
Clarkia  elegans,  elegant  rose-coloured  Clarkia. 

-  pulchella,  showy  purple  Clarkia. 

-  alba,  white  flowered  Clarkia. 
Cleome  grandiflora,  large  lilac  flowering  spider  plant. 
Cjintoriia  elegans,  elegant  blue  Clintonia. 
Collinsia  bicofor,  two-coloured  Collinsia. 

--  heterophylla,  lilac  and  white. 
Commelina  ccelestis,  blue  flowering  Commelina. 
Dianthus  Chinensis,  China  pink,  many  fine  double  varie- 

ties. 

Gomphrena  globosa,  red  and  white  globe  Amaranthus. 
Hibiscus  manihot,  large  yellow  Hibiscus. 

Africanus  major,  buff"  with  black  centre. 


er  for  arbours. 


28  LIST  OF  CHOICE  ANNUALS,  &C.  [MlTC/i. 

T          ,  ,     ...       C  Orange    red,    an    interesting    climbing 
Loasa  latent!*,  |       ^  blooming  throughoutsthe  seasoif. 

Malope  alba,  white  flowering  Malope. 

grandiflora,  large  red  flowering  Malope. 

Mathiola  annua,  all  the  varieties  of  ten  week  stocks  should 
be  industriously  cultivated,  and  seed  soAvn  also  in 
April  and  May  for  autumn  blooming. 

("Climbing  plants 
Maurandia  Barclayana,  blue  flowering,  J    for  pillars,  trel- 

semperflorens,  pink  flowering  |    lisses    or     ar- 

(_  bours. 
Mesembryanthemum  glaciale,  Frozen  plant. 

crystallinum,  Ice  plant. 

Mimosa  pudica,  Sensitive  plant, 
Mimulus  Wheelerii,  Monkey  flower,  yel- 
low and  crimson, 


Smithii,  Smith's  yellow  and  red, 
Variegatus,  variegated  pink  and 

white, 

cardinalis,  scarlet, 
roseus,  rose-coloured, 


Will  grow  best 
>  in  wet  places. 


Petunias  of  variety,  a  beautiful  genus  of  plants  of  every 
variety  of  colour,  from  deep  purple  to  pure  white, 
blooming  from  June  till  frost  ;  the  seeds  are  small 
and  require  to  be  very  lightly  covered. 
Portulaca  splendens,  splendid  purple  flowered  Purslane. 
--  Thellusonii,  red  flowered  Purslane. 
Salpiglossis  picta,  atropurpurea,  &c.,  delight  in  a  cool  situ- 

ation. 

Schizanthus  retusus,  orange-coloured    ~1  T  -i  •  u       -i 

Schizanthus,  Llke,a  nch  .*°l1: 

pinnatus,  calico  Schizan-  U     and  a  cool  and 

naU  shad- 


thus,  . 

And  a  few  other  varieties,  ed  Sltuatlon- 

Shortia  Californica,  yellow  Shortia,  very  profuse  flowering. 
Tagetes,  Mary-gold,  the  new  varieties  of  the  French  are 

very  pretty  —  they  like  rich  soil  and  plenty  of  mois- 

ture. 
Tropseolum  aduncum,  Canary  bird  flower,  a  climber  and  a 

very  scarce  plant. 


March.~\  HARDY  ANNUALS. 

Tropaeolum  atrosanguineum,  crimson  Nastur-^) 

tium.  I     Climbing 

Thunbergia  alata,  buff  with  black  centre.         {         plants. 
i         alba,  white  flowered, 
aurantiaca,  fine  orange. 


-  I 


Verbena  candidissima,  pure  white. 

Mestonii,  bright  scarlet. 

Algerii,  pale  rose. 


Blue  Q,ueen,  blue   with  pale 


centre. 


Wilsonii,  very  dark  purple. 
Julia,  bright  rose. 


A  lovely  family 
of    pretty  and 


fuse  flc 


ower- 


pro 

ing  plants  gen- 
erally of  a  pro- 
cumbent habit. 


Seeds  may  be  obtained  from  the  above,  although  they 
cannot  be  relied  upon  to  produce  the  same  colours. 
Vinca  rosea,  Madagascar  Periwinkle,  ~j  Thrive   best   in  a 
-  alba,  white  flowered  Pe-  I  warm,  dry,  situa- 
riwinkle,  J  tion,  with  rich  soil. 

Zinnia  elegans,  splendid  Zinnia.  ~\  TT 


paudflora,      yel-j 


Though  the  above  will  bloom  much  earlier  by  being 
sown  on  a  hot-bed,  yet  where  that  convenience  cannot  be 
obtained,  they  will  all  succeed  treated  as  hardy  annuals. 

After  sowing,  if  the  weather  be  clear,  the  sun  acting  on 
the  glass,  will  produce  a  too  rapid  evaporation  of  the  mois- 
ture of  the  soil,  and  may  otherwise  affect  seeds  but  thinly 
covered,  which  must  be  guarded  against  by  shading  'with 
mats  for  a  few  hours  during  bright  sunshine.  In  giving 
water  it  ought  always  to  be  about  milk  warm,  and  passed 
through  a  fine  rose,  to  prevent  the  stems  being  broken  or 
bruised.  Weeds  must  be  drawn  out  as  soon  as  they  ap- 
pear. 


HARDY  ANNUALS. 

Many  annual  plants,  though  of  short  duration,  are  pos- 
sessed of  much  beauty  of  hue  and  elegance  of  form:  they 
are  farther  valuable  from  their  adaptation  in  filling  up  va- 
3* 


30  HARDY  ANNUALS.  [March. 

cant  spots  through  the  flower  garden  or  parterre.  They 
are,  besides,  of  easy  culture,  many  requiring  nothing  more 
than  to  have  the  seeds  sown  in  the  spot  where  they  are  to 
grow.  The  first  sowing  may  take  place  about  the  end  of 
the  month,  when  the  ground  is  prepared  and  the  weather 
fine,  but  avoid  it  at  all  times  when  the  ground  will  not  pul- 
verize properly.  The  neatest  and  most  expeditious  method 
is  to  take  a  rod  about  one  foot  long  and  one  inch  in  dia- 
meter, rounding  at  the  end,  with  which  draw  a  circle  from 
four  to  nine  inches  in  diameter,  and  from  one-eighth  of  an 
'inch  to  an  inch  deep,  according  to  the  size  of  the  seeds. 
Many  very  small  seeds  will  grow  best,  if  sown  on  the  sur- 
face of  fine  mould.  When  sown,  cover  with  fine  mould, 
placing  a  small  twig  or  tally,  with  the  name  in  the  centre 
of  the  circle  to  prevent  mistakes,  either  in  sowing,  planting 
or  hoeing.  '  When  they  have  grown  from  one  to  two  in- 
ches— the  first  moist  day  should  be  taken  to  remove  such 
as  are  too  crowded,  which  can  be  generally  transplanted 
to  some  other  situation,  taking  care  to  shade  them  a  few 
days,  with  flower  pots,  or  some  other  substitute.  A  few 
kinds  do  best  with  removing,  such  as  Balsams,  China 
Asters,  Mary-gold,  10  week  stocks,  Hibiscus,  Zinnias,  and 
several  others,  of  a  free  growing,  and  strong-wooded  na- 
ture. Annuals  are  such  plants  as  grow  from  seed,  flower 
and  perfect  their  productions,  and  then  die  within  one  year. 
The  following  sorts  are  well  deserving  of  culture : 

Adonis  miniata,  Flos  Adonis  or  Pheasant's  eye,  red. 
Amaranthus  caudatus,  Love  lies  Bleeding,  red  and  yellow 

variety. 
Amaranthus  hypochondriacus,  Prince's  Feather,  red. 

tricolor,   three-coloured   Amaranthus    should 

be  sown  on  rather  poor  soil — on  rich  soil  it 
has  little  beauty. 

Brachycome  iberidifolia,  fine  dark  blue. 
Brugmansia  Waymeria,  double  flowered,  large  and  showy. 
Centaurea  moschata,  purple  sweet  Sultan. 
•  —  cretica,  white  sweet  Sultan. 

•       suaveolens,  yellow  sweet  Sultan. 
Collinsia  grandiflora,  blue  Collins'  flower. 
Convolvulus,  minor,  dwarf  blue  Bindweed. 


March.~]  HARDY  ANNUALS.  31 

Calliopsis  bicolor,  formerly  Coreopsis  tinctoria  or  Fair 
Eye ;  a  very  gay  plant,  and  flowers  best  when 
sown  in  October. 

Drummondii,  yellow  calliopsis. 

Collomia  coccinea,  scarlet  flowered. 

Delphinium  ajacis,  Rocket  Larkspur,  many  varieties,  all 
superb,  and  do  best  to  be  sown  in  rich  ground  in 
October. 

consolida,  branching  Larkspur,  various  co- 
lours. 

Euphorbia  variegata,  variegated  Euphorbia. 

Eschscholtzia  crocea,  Orange.     (Now  chryseis.} 

Californica,  yellow. 

Erysimum  PerowfFskyanum,  bright  orange. 

Gilia  tricolor,  three-coloured  Gilia,~J 

capitata,  blue-coloured,  >  Bloom  all  summer. 

,  Achillsefolia,  large  blue,  J 

Heliophila  Araboides,  blue  sun  love,  very  pretty. 

Hieracium  meutabilis,  changeable  Hawkweed. 

Helianthus  Californicus,  superb  double  dwarf  sunflower. 

Iberis  arnara,  white  Candytuft. 

• umbellata,  purple  Candytuft. 

violacea,  violet  Candytuft. 

odorata,  white  sweet-scented  Candytuft. 

splendens,  large  purple,  sweet-scented  Candytuft.   - 

Ipomoea  quamoclit,  Cypress  vine,  the  seed  will  grow  freely, 

if  soaked  two  or  three  hours  in  hot  water. 

Lathyrus  odoratus,  sweet  Pea  of  many  varieties. 

Leptosiphon  densiflorus,  dense-flowered  Leptosiphon. 

Loasa  lateritia,  orange-coloured  Loasa,  a  climbing  plant. 

Lupinus,  many  varieties ;  they  require  to  be  partially 
shaded  from  hot  suns. 

Malope  grandiflora,  scarlet  Malope. 

•  alba,  white. 

Mirabilis  jalapa,  marvel  of  Peru,  many  varieties.  If  the 
roots  of  this  plant  are  lifted  in  October,  and  placed 
in  a  dry  cellar,  free  from  frost,  and  planted  out  next 
April,  they  will  bloom  much  finer. 

Nemophila  insignis,  or  blue  Grove  Love,  a  pretty  dwari 
plant,  requiring  rich  soil  and  a  half  shaded  situa- 
tion. 

atomaria,  white  with  black  spots. 


32  BOX  EDGINGS.  [March. 

(Enothera  or  tree  Primrose ;  many  varieties  of  the  annual 
species  produce  their  flowers  in  much  greater 
perfection,  if  planted  or  f  sown  in  poor  soil.  To 
this  ansiloba,  sinuata,  and  tetraptera,  are  excep- 
tions, as  they  flower  the  finest  in  a  rich  light 
loam. 

Papaver  Marseillii,  double  white  poppy  edged  with  red. 

gigantea,  large  Dutch  poppy. 

Phlox  Drummondii,  many  colours,  a  superb  article,  and 
blooms  from  May  till  October.  In  dry  situations  it 
is  apt  to  die  off"  unless  partially  shaded. 

Reseda  odorata,  Mignonette ;  to  have  it  in  perfection  the 
whole  season,  there  should  be  a  sowing  in  May  and 
July.  It  delights  in  a  rich  loamy  soil. 

Tournefortia  heliotropoides,  summer  Heliotrope. 

Viola  tricolor,  Pansy  or  Heart's-ease,  require  very  rich  soil, 
and  should  be  shaded  from  hot  sun  ;  if  sown  early 
in  the  season,  they  will  flower  profusely  in  the 
autumn. 

For  other  varieties  of  Annuals,  see  list  adapted  for  hot- 
bed sowing.  We  have  omitted  many  not  agreeing  with 
our  climate,  or  those  very  common  for  such,  we  refer  our 
readers  to  the  lists  published  annually,  by  respectable 
seedsmen. 


BOX  EDGINGS 


May  be  planted  any  time  this  month,  or  beginning  of 
next,  which  in  most  seasons  will  be  preferable.  We  will 
give  a  few  simple  directions  how  to  accomplish  the  work. 
In  the  first  place,  dig  over  the  ground  deeply  where  the 
edging  is  intended  to  be  planted,  breaking  the  soil  fine,  and 
keeping  it  to  a  proper  height,  namely  about  one  inch  higher 
than  the  side  of  the  walk ;  but  the  taste  of  the  operator 
will  best  decide,  according  to  the  situation.  Rake  the  sur- 
face even,  and  tread  it  down  with  the  feet,  or  beat  it  with 
the  spade.  Where  it  gives  most,  continue  to  add,  keep- 
ing the  surface  at  the  desired  height.  If  the  edging  is  to 
be  in  a  direct  line,  either  on  a  level  or  inclined  plane,  you 
may  be  correctly  and  simply  regulated  by  making  the  de- 


MarchJ]  GRASS  AND  OTHER  EDGINGS.  33 

sired  level  at  each  end  of  the  line.  Take  three  rods  about 
four  feet  long  each,  having  a  piece  of  one  foot  to  cross  at 
one  end,  two  of  these  pieces  painted  black,  the  other  white. 
Have  a  black  one  at  each  end  of  the  line  on  the  level,  take 
the  white  one  for  the  centre,  going  along  the  line,  and 
about  every  twenty  feet,  level  a  spot  to? the  exact  height, 
which  will  be  seen  by  looking  over  the  top  of  the  rods 
from  one  end.  Having  found  the  level,  drive  in  a  peg  to 
it,  so  that  no  mistake  may  occur ;  beat  and  level  between 
them,  leaving  a  smooth  surface.  This  being  done,  strain 
the  line,  and  with  the  spade  proceed  to  cut  out  the  trench 
perpendicularly  on  the  side  next  the  walk,  six,  eight,  ten, 
or  twelve  inches  deep,  according  to  the  length  of  the  plants. 
Afterwards  take  the  plants,  and  cut  the  tops  even,  with  the 
knife  or  shears,  at  the  same  time  shortening  the  roots. 
Then  with  the  left  hand  next  the  line,  plant  forward,  keep- 
ing the  tops  of  the  plants  level,  and  from  one  to  two  inches 
above  ground,  keeping  the  plants  close  according  to  the 
required  thickness.  Put  in  the  earth  as  you  proceed,  and 
tread  it  firm,  then  rake  the  surface  even,  and  with  the 
spade  beat  it  smooth.  If  the  weather  sets  in  very  dry,  the 
box  will  be  the  better  of  a  few  waterings.  Sometimes  box- 
wood is  planted  without  roots,  but  it  seldom  gives  satisfac- 
tion ;  not  growing  equally. 


GRASS  AND  OTHER  EDGINGS. 

Grass  verges  for  walks  and  borders,  although  frequently 
used,  are  by  no  means  desirable,  except  where  variety  is 
required ;  they  are  the  most  laborious  to  keep  in  order,  and 
at  best  are  inelegant,  and  the  only  object  in  their  favour  is, 
their  being  everywhere  accessible.  Iris  humilis,  Viola 
tricolor,  thyme,  Sea  Pink,  (Stattice  Armeria,)  Mignonette, 
Phlox  subulata,  and  Phlox  procumbens,  all  make  tolerable 
edgings.  In  the  southern  states,  Verbena  Tweediana— V. 
alba,  V.  intermedia  and  other  varieties,  will  make  the  most 
lovely  edging  for  walks  and  borders  that  can  be  imagined, 
and  will  bloom  profusely  from  May  till  November. 


34  HARDY  BIENNIALS.  \_Mdrch. 


HARDY  BIENNIALS. 

Biennial  plants  are  such  as  are  of  two  years'  duration. 
Being  sown  this  year  they  flower,  seed,  or  fruit  next  year, 
and  soon  after  decay :  the  seeds  should  be  sown  about  the 
end  of  this  month  or  beginning  of  next,  either  in  the  spot 
where  they  are  to  remain  or  a  compartment  by  themselves, 
regularly  marked,  and  to  be  transplanted  in  May  or  Sep- 
tember. When  they  appear  above  ground  thin  them  out 
distinctly,  that,  when  they  are  to  be  removed,  a  little  earth 
may  adhere  to  them:  and,  if  sown  where  they  are  to 
stand,  leave  only  three  or  four  plants  in  each  patch.  The 
following  list  are  a  few  of  the  free-blooming  and  more  ele- 
gant sorts : 

Agrostemma  coronaria,  Rose  Campion,  blooms  all  summer. 
Althea  rosea,  Hollyhock,  and  all  its  varieties,  very  showy 

in  July  and  August.     When  any  very  desirable 

variety  is  procured,  it  can  be  multiplied  by  dividing 

the  root. 
Antirrhinum  majus,  Snap-dragon,  and  its  varieties,  require 

to  be  protected  during  winter  with  a  few  leaves  or 

litter. 
Cantua  coronopifolia,  flowers  in  August  and  September, 

beautiful  scarlet,  delights  in  dry  gravelly  soil. 
Ipomopsis  elegans. 
Campanula  media,  dark  blue  Canterbury"! 

bell, 
Campanula  media,  semi-pleno,  half  dou-  [Bloom  in  June 

ble  Canterbury  bell,  j      and  July. 

Campanula  media,  alba,  white  Canterbury 

bell,  J 

Campanula  thyrsoides. 
Cheiranthus  cheiri,  Wall-flower,  should  be  protected  by 

leaves  or  boards  during  winter. 
Digitalis  purpurea,  purple  Fox  glove. 
—  •  alba,  white  Fox  glove. 

Dianthus  barbatus,  Sweet  William  pink. 

— coccineus  crimson  pink. 

fl.  pi.  double-flowered  ;  the  double  sorts 

can  be  propagated  by  laying,  same  as 
carnations. 


March.']  PERENNIALS.  35 

Gerardia  purpurea,  purple  Gerardia,  ~|    Natives 

flava,  yellow  Gerardia,  I  of     this 

quercifolia,  spotted  flowered  Gerardia,  J    country. 

Hedysarum  coronarium,  red  flowered  French  Honey- 
suckle. 

Humea  elegans,  scarlet  Humea,  flowers  in  June  and  Sep- 
tember. 

Lunaria  biennis,  Honesty,  various  colours,  not  beautiful,  but 
curious  in  seed. 

(Enothera  corymbosa,  dwarf  Evening  Primrose. 

Papaver  nudicaule,  naked-stemmed  yellow  Poppy. 

Scabiosa  atropurpurea,  musk-scented  Scabious. 

Silene  multiflora,  many-flowered  Catch-fly. 

There  might  be  many  other  beautiful  biennial  plants 
enumerated,  which  are  justly  considered  worthy  of  atten- 
tion ;  but  most  of  them  do  not  withstand  the  severity  of 
our  winters,  although  very  much  prized  in  England. 


PERENNIALS. 

In  every  flower  garden  there  ought  to  be  a  good  selec- 
tion of  these  plants.  They  are  lasting  ornaments ;  and, 
when  judiciously  selected,  will  give  yearly  gratification. 
In  making  a  choice,  a  view  should  be  to  have  those  that 
flower  abundantly,  are  of  free  growth,  beauty  and  continu- 
ation of  bloom.  It  would  go  beyond  our  limits  to  give  an 
extensive  description  of  any,  but  a  few  remarks  on  some 
of  the  finest,  with  their  names,  are  indispensable. 

Adonis  verndlis,  is  a  fine  border  flower,  and  will  grow 
in  any  common  soil ;  flowers  large,  yellow  rayed,  having 
in  the  rays  about  twelve  petals ;  leaves  much  divided, 
blooms  in  April  and  May. 

Anemone,  Wind-flower.  Several  fine  species,  with 
flowers  from  one  to  three  inches  in  diameter,  very  cele- 
brated in  Europe,  though  succeeding  poorly  with  us  except 
in  cool  latitudes.  A.  alpina,  large  white.  A.  palmata 
Jlore-pleno,  yellow ;  A.  stellata  versicolor,  various  colour- 
ed ;  A.  pavonlna  flore-pleno,  scarlet ;  Jl.  narcissi-flora, 
white.  Any  of  these  are  very  desirable. 

Antirrhinums,  Snap-dragon.     All  the  varieties  of  A. 


30  PERENNIALS.  \\March. 

majus  are  esteemed  in  the  flower  borders  ;  the  pure  white, 
bright  red,  rich  crimson,  and  variegated,  are  very  showy. 
A  few  of  the  species,  A.  mnlle  and  A.  siculum,  where 
there  is  variety  required,  deserve  a  situation.  The  flowers 
are  all  large,  and  similar  to  the  snout  of  an  animal. 

Anthericum  Klidstrum,  St.  Burnos  Lily,  is  an  excellent 
liliacous  plant,  with  orange-yellow  flowers,  blooming  in 
June,  July  and  August,  and  will  grow  in  any  common  gar- 
den soil. 

Asclepias.  The  finest  of  this  genus  are  native  plants, 
and  are  highly  esteemed  in  Europe,  but  frequently  rejected 
with  us,  because  "  they  are  wild  plants."  A.  tuberosa  has 
beautiful  orange  flowers,  and  delights  in  dry  situations.  A. 
ritbra,  A,  nivea,  A.  purpurdscens  ;  and  A.  incarnata,  are 
the  finest  of  the  family.  It  is  best  to  plant  A.  tubtrbsa  in 
October. 

Acoriitums,  Wolfs'-bane,  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight 
distinct  species,  with  several  varieties.  Many  of  them  are 
of  consequence  and  beauty ;  the  flower-stems  rise  from 
one  and  a  half  to  six  feet  upright,  and  strong,  furnished 
with  many  palmate  and  digitate  leaves,  terminated  by 
spikes  of  blue,  yellow,  or  white  flowers,  similar  to  a  'hood  ; 
hence  the  name  of  Monk's  Hood  is  often  applied  to  them. 
They  are  scarce  in  collections ;  but,  in  a  few  years,  we 
have  no  doubt  but  many  of  them  will  be  plentiful.  The 
finest  species  are  A.  speciosum,  A.  Sieboldii,  large  dark 
blue,  A.  pyrenaiacum,  branching  blue,  A.  napellus,  A. 
venustum,  A.  pyramidale,  A,  lycoctonum,  A.  versicolor, 
or  variegatum,  and  A.  grandiflorum.  They  flower  from 
May  to  September,  and  will  grow  in  any  common  garden 
soil.  The  roots  of  A.  napellus  are  like  small  turneps,  and 
are  poisonous.  They  like  a  little  shade  and  rich  soil. 

Cdltha  palustris  JJore-pleno  is  a  good  border  plant,  de- 
lights in  moist  situations,  has  large  cordate,  crenated  leaves; 
flowers  double  yellow,  blooming  from  April  to  June ;  and 
is  a  desirable  plant. 

BeUis  perennis  hortensis,  Daisy.  We  might  almost  say 
with  another,  "  Every  one  knows  the  Daisy."  It  is  named 
from  being  pretty,  and  is  perfectly  hardy,  though  generally 
kept  under  cover.  They  delight  to  have  a  shaded  situa- 
tion during  summer,  to  protect  them  from  the  sun,  which, 
-as  it  were,  scorches  the  roots.  There  are  many  double 


March.']  PERENNIALS.  87 

varieties  in  the  gardens,  which  flower  early.  The  one 
called  Crown,  or  Carnation  Daisy,  is  twice  the  size  of  the 
common  varieties,  and  has  white  and  red  petals  alternately 
and  very  double.  Loamy  soil,  inclined  to  moisture,  is  best 
adapted  to  their  growth. 

Campanula.  This  genus  affords  many  very  ornamental 
plants  for  the  Flower  garden  and  Shrubbery,  and  they 
flower  superbly  during  the  summer,  agreeing  better  with 
our  climate  than  with  that  of  Europe.  Many  have  two 
successions  of  flowers,  C.  persidfolia  alba  plena  ;  C.  per- 
sicifolia  coeritlea  plena  ;  C.  urticifolia,  white.  Of  this  last 
there  is  also  a  double  variety.  C.  speciosa  ;  C.  glomerata  ; 
C.  versicolor,  with  several  others,  are  worthy  of  a  situation 
in  every  garden.  Their  roots  are  strong,  fleshy  and 
fibrous.  They  are  easy  of  culture,  and  will  retain  their 
situation  in  the  severest  of  our  winters.  C.  grandiflbra  is 
now  I'Fahlenbergia  grandiflbra.  It  has  superb  large  blue 
flowers,  stems  are  slender,  and  should  be  supported  as  soon 
as  they  grow. 

Cheirdnthus  Cheiri  vulgaris  is  the  common  garden 
Wall-flower.  There  are  about  ten  varieties  of  it,  all  ad- 
mired for  their  various  colours  and  agreeable  odour.  The 
common  variety  survives  the  mildest  of  our  winters.  The 
most  esteemed  variety  is  hoemdnthus,  Double  bloody. 
They  should  all  be  protected  by  a  frame.  C.  mutdbilis  is 
a  beautiful  species  ;  it  has  many  shades  of  colour  from  lilac 
to  dark  purple.  The  flowers  are  on  extending  racemose 
spikes  ;  blooming  from  April  to  June  ;  it  requires  a  light 
rich  soil ;  is  a  half  shrubby  evergreen  plant. 

Chelone.  This  genus  belongs  entirely  to  this  conti- 
nent, and  possesses  many  fine  species.  It  is  a  matter  of 
astonishment  that  they  are  not  more  cultivated  and  sought 
for  in  our  collections.  C.  gldbra;  C.  obliqua;  C.  barbata; 
C.  atropurpitrea ;  C.  pulchella ;  and  C.  speciosa  f  are  all 
handsome,  and  flower  from  May  to  September;  corolk 
large,  ringent,  ventricose ;  flowers  in  spikes  or  panicles. 

Chrysanthemums.  There  are  few  of  this  genus  of  any 
consequence  as  herbaceous  plants,  except  the  varieties  of 
C.  sinense,  of  which  there  are  about  ninety,  all  desirable ; 
but  in  small  gardens,  where  there  is  a  deficiency  in  room, 
the  following  are  select  in  colour  and  quality:  Admiration, 
yellow  ;  Celestial,  pale  blush  ;  Coronet,  white  :  Defiance, 


38  PERENNIALS.  [March. 

lemon  yellow ;  Etna,  dark-brown ;  Hero,  rosy  crimson ; 
King,  pale  rose ;  Perfection,  lilac ;  Queen,  blush ;  Tri- 
umphant, buff  and  white  ;  Venus,  rose ;  Win.  Penn,  large 
creamy  white ;  Marshal  Messena,  yellow  and  red  ;  Indica 
rubra,  very  dwarf  early  red ;  IVheelerii,  large  purple ; 
sanguinea,  a  beautiful  crimson.  To  grow  these  in  perfec- 
tion, they  require  rich  light  soil ;  and  about  the  end  of  this 
month  the  roots  should  be  lifted,  divided  and  planted  into 
fresh  soil,  either  by  giving  them  a  new  situation,  or  chang- 
ing the  earth  they  were  in.  Two  or  three  stems  together 
are  quite  sufficient.  The  flowers,  by  the  above  treatment, 
will  be  much  larger,  more  double,  and  finer  in  colour : 
where  they  are  wanted  to  grow  low  and  bushy,  top  them 
in  June,  but  not  later  than  the  first  of  July.  Where  the 
soil  is  rich,  and  the  plant  having  only  one  stem,  by  topping 
it,  makes  a  beautiful  bush.  They  are  in  flower  from  the 
first  of  October  until  severe  frost ;  thus  beautifying  our 
gardens  at  a  season  when  they  would  be  destitute  of  one 
single  attraction.  If  the  season  be  dry,  to  water  them  with 
liquid  manure  will  add  to  their  vigour.  They  are  all  na- 
tives of  China,  and  greatly  esteemed  by  the  Chinese,  who 
only  allow  a  few  blooms  to  come  out  on  the  top  of  each 
stem,  thereby  having  the  flowers  much  finer. 

Within  these  three  years,  hundreds  of  varieties  of  this 
winter  flower  have  been  produced  from  seed  in  Europe  ; 
many  of  them  very  superb,  and  having  more  luxuriant 
foliage  and  greater  diversity  of  colour. 

Clematis,  Virgin's-bower.  A  few  species  are  good  her- 
baceous plants,  of  upright  growth,  and  blue  flowers,  C. 
integrifolia  ;  C.  ungustifolia  ;  and  C.  erecta;  they  grow 
best  in  light  soil. 

Coreopsis,  chiefly  native  plants,  and  free-flowering ;  co- 
lour principally  yellow;  flowers  rayed.  C.  tenuifolia,  C. 
verticillata,  C.  discolor,  and  C.  tripteris,  are  the  finest  of 
the  genus,  and  will  grow  in  any  common  garden  soil. 

Delphiniums.  There  are  some  showy  border  flowers  of 
these,  of  strong  growth.  The  leaves  are  much  divided ; 
the  flowers  in  terminal  spikes ;  colour  blue,  purple,  pink, 
white  and  yellow,  with  various  shades.  D.  grandiflorum, 
and  its  varieties,  are  the  best  of  the  genus.  D.  interme- 
dium, and  its  varieties,  D.  datum,  Bee  Larkspur,  from 
the  ringent  part  of  the  flower  being  very  like  a  bee,  and 


March.']  PERENNIALS.  39 

D.  montdnum,  are  good  varieties,  and  easily  cultivated. 
When  the  plants  become  large,  they  ought  to  be  divided, 
and  planted  in  fresh  soil.  They  are  in  bloom  from  May 
to  September. 

Dianthus.  Some  of  the  species  of  this  genus  are  the 
most  prominent  of  the  flower  garden,  riot  only  for  their 
beauty,  but  also  their  fragrance,  which  is  peculiarly  grate- 
ful, especially  in  the  well-known  and  celebrated  Pink  and 
Carnation,  with  the  Sweet  William,  which  was  esteemed 
in  the  days  of  old  "  for  its  beauty  to  deck  up  the  bosoms 
of  the  beautiful,  and  garlands  and  crowns  for  pleasure." 
The  finest  species  are  D.  barbdtus  and  D.  barbdtus  pleno, 
Sweet  William;  D,  discolor;  D.  chinensis;  D.  alpinus ; 
D.  superbus;  D.  caryophylhis,  from  which  have  originated 
the  Picotee  and  the  Carnation;  D.  plumdrius,  from  which 
originated  the  Double  Pink.  Several  of  these,  although 
they  will  stand  the  severest  cold,  have  to  be  protected  in 
frames  during  winter,  to  have  them  in  the  perfection  of 
beauty.  For  the  character  of  a  Pink  and  Carnation,  see 
May. 

Dictdmnus.  Two  species  of  this  genus,  D.  fraxinella 
and  D.  dlbus,  have  been  cultivated  and  esteemed  upwards 
of  two  hundred  and  forty  years.  A  plant  of  the  first  of 
these  species,  when  gently  rubbed,  emits  an  odour  like  that 
of  lemon-peel ;  and  when  bruised  emits  a  balsamic  scent, 
which  is  strongest  in  the  pedicles  of  the  flowers.  They 
have  glands  of  a  rusty  colour,  that  exude  a  viscid  juice,  or 
resin,  which  exhales  in  vapour,  and  in  a  dark  place  may 
be  seen  to  take  fire.  Its  flowers  are  red,  those  of  the  other 
white,  in  loose  terminal  spikes ;  the  flower  has  five  petals, 
clawed  and  unequal,  with  glandular  dots ;  in  bloom  from 
May  to  July;  delights  in  sandy  loam. 

Dodecdtheon.  This  is  a  native  genus*  and  commonly 
called  American  cowslip.  The  generic  term,  a  name  of 
the  Romans,  signifying  twelve  gods  or  divinities,  is  applied 
with  great  absurdity  to  a  plant,  a  native  of  a  world  the 
Romans  never  saw  nor  had  any  idea  of;  neither  resem- 
bling in  any  particular,  the  poetical  fancy  of  their  writers. 
The  most  admired  species  is  D.  media;  the  flowers  are  in 
umbels,  on  a  pedicle,  from  six  to  twelve  inches  high;  the 
corolla  is  rotata  reflexa,  colour  light  purple,  bottom  of  petals 
lake  and  yellow;  blooming  in  May.  The  white  variety  is 


40  PERENNIALS. 

very  much  esteemed,  and  surpasses  the  preceding.  The 
ground  is  pure  white,  the  bottom  of  the  petals  the  same 
as  the  other.  There  is  also  a  spotted  variety  found  on  the 
banks  of  the  Missouri.  They  delight  in  brown  loam,  a 
half  shady  situation,  inclining  to  moisture.  The  foliage 
soon  decays  after  flowering. 

Digitalis,  Fox-glove,  about  forty  species  of  annuals  and 
herbaceous  plants.  A  few  are  cultivated  in  the  flower  bor- 
ders, and  are  very  showy.  These  are  D.  leucophcea,  D. 
ferruginea,  D.  ochroleuca,  large  yellow ;  and  D.  purpu- 
rdscens ;  and  are  good  species.  Jb.purpurea  and  D.  alba 
are  very  conspicuous  biennials ;  the  flowers  are  solitary, 
and  in  long  spikes  ;  the  corolla  of  D.  piirpnrea  is  campa- 
nulate,  ventricose  and  ringent ;  the  interior  is  spotted,  and 
is  considered  the  finest  of  the  genus.  Delights  in  poor 
soil,  with  a  little  shade. 

Draco cephalum,  Dragon's  Head,  about  twenty  species, 
mostly  ornamental.  D.  virginicum  is  a  profuse  blooming 
plant,  with  bluish  pink  flowers,  and  grows  about  four  feet 
high.  D.  argunense  is  a  superb  dwarf,  with  large  dark 
blue  flowers. 

Eupatoriums .  These  generally  are  native  plants,  not 
worthy  of  notice  here,  except  for  two  species.  E.  cceles- 
tinum  has  syngenesious  flowers  in  flattened  panicles,  co- 
lour fine  light  blue,  blooming  from  September  to  November, 
desirable  for  its  beauty  at  that  season.  E.  aromaticum 
may  be  cultivated  for  its  spicy  odour ;  flowers  white,  in 
loose  terminal  panicles  ;  blooming  from  August  to  October. 
Either  of  them  will  grow  in  common  soil. 

FunMa,  Japan  Day  Lily,  three  species,  all  beautiful.  F. 
cceritlea,  with  blue  flowers.  F.japonica,  pure  white,  and 
F.  variegata,  with  striped  leaves  and  flowers.  F.  lauri- 
Jblia,  early  blue.  This  genus  has  been  separated  from 
Hemerocallis. 

Gentidnas,  a  genus  of  very  showy  plants,  and  flower  in 
great  abundance.  The  flowers  are  tubular  and  inflated ; 
colour  generally  blue.  A  few  species  are  yellow,  and  some 
white  ;  flowers  in  whorls,  terminal  or  solitary.  They  grow 
best  in  a  light  rich  soil.  G.  liitea,  G.  purpiirea,  G.  se.p- 
temfida.  G.  acaulis  is  a  pretty  dwarf  growing  species, 
the  flower  dark  and  light  blue ;  interior  of  the  corolla  spotr 
ted ;  has  a  succession  of  flowers  from  April  to  June.  These 


March.~]  PERENNIALS.  41 

are  fine  exotics,  but  may  give  place  to  our  native  species, 
such  as  G.  Catesbcei ;  G.  ochroleuca;  G.  incarndta;  with 
several  others,  and  G.  crindta,  which  is  a  biennial,  and 
finely  fringed ;  colour  light  blue. 

Geum.  There  are  only  four  species  that  are  worth  cul- 
tivation, namely,  G.  quellyon,  once  G.  cocdneurn  ;  G. 
splendens,  G.  JVicea,  and  G.  hybridum.  G.  urbanum 
is  sometimes  cultivated  for  its  roots,  which,  when  chewed, 
sweeten  the  breath.  They  are  all  of  easy  culture.  G. 
quellyon  and  splendens  flower  from  May  to  October,  and 
are  very  desirable  plants  for  the  borders,  and  much  esteem- 
ed in  Europe. 

HemerocalliSiDay  Lily  ;  three  species,  H.fiilva,  H.  gra- 
minea,  and  H.  Sieboldii,  flower  well,  and  are  remarkable 
among  the  border  flowers  for  their  large  yellow  or  copper- 
coloured  corollas,  some  of  them  about  six  inches  in  dia- 
meter ;  bloom  from  May  to  July,  and  will  grow  in  almost 
any  soil.  There  is  a  plant  known  in  our  gardens  as  H. 
cceriilea,  which  is  Funkia  coerulea,  and  has  a  campanulate 
corolla,  with  a  cylindrical  tube ;  flowers  in  spikes;  leaves- 
ovate,  acuminate. 

Hibiscus.  There  are  several  herbaceous  species  very- 
showy  and  handsome,  H.  palustris  ;  H.  roseus  ;  H.  mill' 
taris  ;  H.  spedosus  ;  H.  grandiflorus  ;  and  H.  pungens. 
They  grow  best  in  moist  situations,  and  where  these  are 
not  to  be  had,  give  them  plenty  of  water,  and  plant  in  sandy 
soil  enriched  with  decayed  leaves.  The  flowers  are  about 
six  inches  in  diameter,  flowering  up  the  stem,  either  soli- 
tary or  in  small  bunches.  H.  spedosus  is  the  most  splen- 
did, and  deserves  a  situation  in  every  garden.  The  roots 
in  winter  ought  to  be  covered  by  litter,  tan,  or  saw-dust ; 
but  a  better  method  is  to  lift  them,  and  put  them  in  the  cel- 
lar, covered  with  dry  earth,  and  kept  from  the  frost.  All 
the  above-mentioned  species  are  improved  by  being  pro- 
tected during  winter. 

Iris,  Flower-de-lis,  has  many  fine  species  of  various 
shades  and  colours,  /.  siibiflora,  /.  nepalensis,  I.  Palldsii, 
I.  pdllida,  7.  cristata,  /.  arenaria,  I.  furcata,  I.  germd- 
nica,  I.floreniina,  1.  verna,  and  /.  susidna.  The  last  is 
the  finest  of  the  herbaceous  species  ;  the  flowers  are  very 
large  and  curiously  spotted  with  brown ;  it  stands  the 
severest  of  our  winters  unprotected.  The  roots  of  /.  flo- 
4* 


42  PERENNIALS.  \_Mctrcll. 

rentina  is  the  orris  root  of  the  druggists.  They  are  all 
of  easy  culture  in  any  loamy  soil  inclining  to  moisture. 
The  bulbous  species  will  be  treated  of  in  September  or 
October,  Corolla  six-petalled,  three  erect  and  three  re- 
clined alternately  ;  proceeding  from  spathes  or  sheaths  with 
flowers  in  succession. 

Liatris  is  a  genus  of  native  plants,  containing  several 
fine  species,  L.  squarrosa,  large  purple  heads  of  beautiful 
flowers  ;  L.  elegans  ;  L.  paniciddta.  L.  macrostachya, 
now  L.  spicata,  is  a  fine  large  growing  species.  They 
have  syngenesious  purple  flowers  in  long  close  spikes,  dif- 
fering from  other  spiked  flowering  genera  by  blooming 
first  at  the  extremity.  They  grow  best  in  strong  heavy 
soil. 

Lychnis.  Three  species  are  very  desirable  in  the 
flower  borders.  L.  chalcedonica  has  bright  scarlet  crowned 
flowers ;  the  double  scarlet  variety  is  splendid ;  there  is 
also  a  double  white  variety  ;  L.fulgens  and  L.flos-jovis. 
They  ought  to  be  frequently  lifted,  and  planted  afresh,  or 
they  will  dwindle  to  nothing.  The  best  time  is  when  they 
begin  to  grow.  There  is  a  plant  known  in  our  collections 
as  Lychnis  JJos-cuciili,  ragged  Robbin  or  French  Pink, 
which  is  now  Jlgrostemma  flos-cuciili;  it  is  a  fine  and 
showy  border  plant  with  double  red  flowers,  a  double  white 
variety  of  it  has  been  recently  introduced  of  the  same  cha- 
racter, with  the  additional  quality  of  blooming  the  whole 
season.  They  delight  in  a  light  rich  soil. 

Lythrums,  A  few  species  flower  well,  and  have  small 
pink  blossoms  in  great  profusion,  L.  aldtum,  L.  virgdtum, 
L.  diffusum,  and  L.  lanceolatum.  They  will  grow  in  any 
common  garden  soil  if  not  too  much  shaded ;  and  flower 
from  June  to  September. 

Mimiilus,  Monkey-flower.  A  few  species  may  be  cul- 
tivated. They  will  grow  in  any  soil  or  situation.  M.  lii- 
teus  and  M.  rivularis  are  the  best.  M.  moschdtus  has  a 
very  strong  musk  scent,  to  many  agreeable.  The  former 
two  have  large  gaping  flowers,  of  a  golden  yellow,  and  beau- 
tifully spotted  with  purple  in  the  interior :  they  all  grow 
in  moist  situations. 

Mondrdas,  a  fine  native  genus  and  showy.  The  foliage 
of  several  of  the  species  is  aromatic,  and  resembles  mint. 
M.  didyma  has  long  scarlet  ringlet  flowers,  in  headed 


March.']  PERENNIALS.  43 

whorls ;  M.  kalmiana,  flowers  very  long,  and  a  beautiful 
crimson,  with  fragrant  leaves.  M.  Russdliana  has  red 
and  white  flowers ;  curious  and  handsome.  M.  punctata 
has  yellow  and  red  flowers ;  they  grow  in  any  common 
soil. 

Mathiola  is  the  generic  of  the  Stock-gilly.  None  of 
them  will  survive  severe  winters  in  this  latitude  ;  yet  many 
of  them  are  indispensable  in  the  flower  garden.  M.  sim- 
plicdulis,  Brompton-stock  and  its  varieties ;  with  M.  incana, 
Queen-stock,  and  its  varieties,  require  the  protection  of  a 
good  frame  in  winter,  and  about  the  end  of  this  month,  or 
beginning  of  next,  plant  them  in  good  light  rich  soil  to 
flower,  which  they  will  do  all  summer,  if  attended  to  with 
frequent  supplies  of  water.  M.  dnnua  has  about  forty 
varieties,  valuable  for  flowering  the  first  year  from  seed, 
and  are  all  annuals.  They  ought  to  be  sown  on  a  gentle 
hot-bed  about  the  first  of  this  month,  and  carefully  pricked 
out  so  as  they  may  be  ready  to  transplant  about  the  end  of 
April  or  the  first  of  May.  Plant  them  in  light  rich  soil, 
and  they  will  flower  profusely  through  the  season ;  if  it  is 
very  dry,  they  must  be  watered  to  keep  them  growing. 
The  scarlet,  white  and  purple  varieties  are  the  finest ;  but 
there  are  many  intermediate  sorts, all  handsome.  M.  glabra 
is  the  Wall-flower  leaved  stock,  and  requires  the  same 
treatment  as  the  former  two.  There  are  about  twenty  vari- 
eties of  this,  all  various  in  colour.  In  planting  any  of 
these  into  the  open  ground,  choose  cloudy  weather,  except 
they  have  been  in  pots ;  in  such  case,  plant  at  any  time  in 
beds,  or  detached  groups,  through  the  borders,  keeping 
each  kind  separate. 

CEnotheras.  The  most  of  them  are  indigenous,  and  in 
Europe  they  afford  a  continual  ornament  to  the  flower  gar- 
den from  April  to  November,  but  in  our  gardens  they  are 
entirely  neglected.  By  rejecting  these  and  many  others, 
our  flower  gardens  are  deprived  both  of  much  beauty  and 
interest  they  might  easily  possess.  The  herbaceous  sorts 
delight  in  light  rich  soil.  (E.  odorata,  sweet-scented ;  CE. 
macrocdrpa ;  CE.  media;  (E.  latiflora  ;  CE.  Frazeri  ; 
CE.  spedosa;  CE.  missouriensis,ar\d  CE.po.lUda;  are  all 
fine  native  herbaceous  plants,  mostly  with  large  yellow 
four-petalled  corollas ;  in  bloom  from  May  to  September. 

Phlox,  another  American  genus,  and  one  of  the  most 


44  PERENNIALS.  [March. 

handsome  in  cultivation.  It  consists  of  elegant  border 
flowers,  valuable  for  flowering  early,  and  during  the  whole 
season,  even  till  frost.  While  the  majority  of  plants  bloom- 
ing late  in  the  season  are  generally  syngenesious,  with  yel- 
low flowers,  these  delight  us  with  their  lively  colours  of 
purple,  red,  white  and  striped.  A  collection  of  them  pro- 
perly attended  to,  would  of  themselves  constitute  a  beau- 
tiful flower  garden.  It  will  be  difficult  to  state  which  are 
the  finest,  but  the  following  are  select  varieties  :  P.  bicolor, 
multiflora,  Breckii,  Carterii,  Tournella,  Van  Houttii,  Spe- 
ciosa,  Jllcardii,  longiflora,  Ixta,  a  superb  white ;  omniflora, 
beautiful  dwarf  white;  P.  odorata;  P.  corymbosa;  P. 
suaveolens  ;  P.  reflexa  ;  P.  stolonifera  ;  P.  divaricata  ; 
P.  nivalls ;  and  P.  subuldta.  In  the  spring  of  1831,  an 
eminent  British  collector*  exclaimed,  on  seeing  a  patch  of 
P.  subulata  in  one  of  the  pine  barrens  of  New  Jersey, 
"  The  beauty  of  that  alone  is  worth  coming  to  America  to 
see,  it  is  so  splendid."  Most  of  the  species  delight  in  a 
rich  light  sandy  loam.  When  the  plants  become  large, 
they  ought  to  be  divided,  and  planted  in  fresh  ground. 

Primulas,  Primrose.  To  this  genus  belong  the  cele- 
brated Cowslip,  Oxslip,  Primrose,  and  the  esteemed  jJuri- 
cula.  The  double  varieties  of  Primrose  have  originated 
from  P.  vulgaris.  These  are  such  as  carry  their  flowers 
on  separate  pedicles,  rising  from  the  root  on  a  small  stem. 
The  double  varieties  are  desirable  for  their  beauty,  but  re- 
quire the  protection  of  a  frame  during  winter.  They  are 
in  colour  red,  white,  yellow,  lilac,  purple,  and  crimson.  P. 
elatior  is  the  Oxslip,  from  which  all  the  Polyanthuses  have 
been  grown.  They  are  in  variety  innumerable,  and  are 
those  whose  flowers  are  in  umbels,  on  a  scape  or  flower- 
stalk,  rising  from  three  to  nine  inches.  The  rules  for  judg- 
ing of  their  merits  are  wholly  artificial,  agreed  on  from 
time  to  time  by  florists.  The  one  that  is  the  leading  beauty 
this  year,  would,  in  few  years,  be  far  in  the  rear.  The 
principal  character  is,  that  the  corolla  is  not  notched  or 
fringed ;  the  colours  pure  and  distinct,  not  running  into 
one  another;  the  tube  small;  the  eye  round,  and  a  little 
prominent.  Being  surrounded  with  white,  and  the  ground 
purple,  is  a  fine  character.  P.  auricula.  From  this  the 

*  Mr.  Drummond. 


March.']  PERENNIALS.  45 

highly  esteemed  varieties  have  originated.  The  cultivated 
auricula  has  many  admirers,  both  for  its  exquisite  beauty 
and  fragrance.  For  the  criterion  of  a  fine  flower,  see 
•Bpril.  There  are  several  other  species  worthy  of  a  situa- 
tion, such  as  P.  cortusoides,  P.  dentiflbra,  P.  suaveolens, 
P.  decora,  with  P.  scotica  and  P.farinosa,  both  small  neat 
species.  A  shady  situation  agrees  best  with  them;  and 
they  require  loamy  soil,  free  from  any  kind  of  manure,  ex- 
cept it  be  fully  decomposed.  The  leaves  of  P.  veris  have 
been  recommended  for  feeding  silk  worms. 

Potentillas  are  similar  to  the  strawberry  in  habit  and 
appearance.  P.  nepalensis  orformosa,  has  rose-coloured 
flowers  ;  P.  atropurpurea  ;  P.  Musselliana,  scarlet;  P.  Hop- 
woodiana,  buff  and  scarlet ;  and  P.  splendens,  yellow,  with 
superb  leaves.  These  are  the  finest  of  the  genus,  and  flower 
from  May  to  September.  It  will  be  well  to  protect  them 
with  a  few  leaves  or  litter  during  the  severity  of  winter ; 
they  delight  in  light  soil. 

Saponaria  offitinalis,  and  S.  o.  plena,  are  fine  free  flow- 
ering dwarf  plants;  the  colour  is  pink  in  both  double  and 
single  varieties.  The  roots  run  under  ground,  and  care 
should  be  taken  to  keep  them  within  bounds :  they  flower 
from  June  to  October.  S.  ccespitosa  is  a  neat  growing  spe- 
cies, of  a  rose  colour.  They  will  grow  in  any  soil. 

Silene.  Several  of  this  genus  are  popular  annuals,  but 
the  herbaceous  species  are  very  indifferent.  S.  viscosa 
and  S.  viscosa  fibre  plena  are  frequently  cultivated  for  their 
beauty  ;  they  will  grow  well  if  not  too  much  shaded. 

Saxifraga,  above  one  hundred  species.  Many  of  them 
are  beautiful  plants  for  rock-work.  They  are  regardless 
of  cold,  but  will  not  generally  withstand  much  moisture.  A 
few  of  them  are  highly  deserving  a  situation  in  any  gar- 
den. S.  hirsutum  and  S.  crassifolia  are  used  in  some 
countries  for  tanning.  S.  granulata  multiplex  has  fine 
double  white  flowers,  and  is  desirable.  S.  umbrosa,  Lon- 
don-pride, makes  a  beautiful  edging  for  a  flower  border; 
the  flowers  are  small,  but  on  close  examination  its  colours 
are  unrivalled.  It  is  sometimes  called  "  none  so  pretty." 
S.  sarmentosa  is  kept  in  the  green-house,  but  is  perfectly 
hardy,  and  makes  a  fine  plant  in  a  shaded  situation,  and 
will  grow  where  grass  and  other  plants  generally  die.  We 
have  no  doubt  but  it  would  make  a  good  fancy  edging.  S. 


46  PERENNIALS.  [March. 

pulchella  and  &  pyramidalis  require  protection  ;  these  are 
easily  cultivated,  and  flower  in  spikes  from  May  to  July. 

Spiraeas.  A  few  species  are  showy  plants,  and  continue 
flowering  from  May  to  September.  S.  ulmaria  multiplex, 
Meadow-sweet,  has  sweet-scented  white  flowers,  in  long 
dense  spikes.  S.  JUipendula  multiplex,  Drop-wort,  double 
white.  S.  lobdta  is  a  native,  and  has  fine  rose-coloured 
flowers,  and  blooms  in  June  and  July ;  S.  japonica,  beau- 
tiful dwarf  white ;  these  are  the  finest  of  the  herbaceous 
species,  and  will  grow  in  any  common  garden  soil. 

Stdtice,  Thrift.  A  genus  containing  many  fine  herba- 
ceous plants ;  only  a  few  of  them  are  common  in  collec- 
tions. The  finest  of  them  are  scarce,  and  said  to  be  "bad 
to  cultivate."  S.  vulgaris,  once  Armiria  vulgaris,  is  a 
valuable  plant  for  an  edging,  and  does  well  in  our  climate, 
flowering  in  great  profusion  from  May  to  July.  When 
done  flowering,  the  stems  should  be  cut  off.  The  foliage 
is  an  agreeable  evergreen ;  the  plant  increases  rapidly,  and 
in  a  few  years  may  be  planted  to  a  great  extent.  S.  spe- 
ciosa  has  red  flowers,  crowded  in  spreading  panicles.  S. 
tartarica  has  also  very  showy  flowers,  and  is  now  given  to 
the  genus  Taxanthema.  S.  latifolia  and  S.  maritima 
are  the  finest.  T.  latifolia  and  T.  conspicua  deserve  at- 
tention. They  should  be  lifted  every  alternate  year,  and 
sunk  deeper  into  the  soil,  because  they  incline  to  grow  out, 
and  are  sometimes  during  summer  killed  by  the  drought. 
Hence  they  are  said  to  be  "  bad  to  cultivate." 

Trollius  europaeus  and  T.  osiaticus  are  fine  border 
plants,  with  large  yellow  semi-double  flowers ;  the  petals 
are  much  cupped,  which  causes  the  flowers  to  have  a  glo- 
bular appearance.  They  are  easily  grown  in  any  loamy 
soil,  and  flower  from  May  to  July.  Few  flowers  have  the 
curious  globular  character  which  these  have. 

Veronica,  Speed-well.  This  genus  consists  of  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  species  of  herbaceous  plants,  be- 
sides several  varieties.  The  flowers  are  in  long  close 
spikes,  white,  flesh-coloured,  or  blue ;  they  are  generally 
of  the  latter  colour.  Above  sixty  species  are  equally  fine, 
and  being  generally  of  the  same  character,  the  catalogue 
at  the  end  of  this  work  will  contain  the  best  selection  that 
we  can  make.  Very  few  of  them  are  in  the  collections  of 
the  country,  although  they  are  very  showy,  and  flower 


March."]  PERENNIALS.  47 

from  May  to  August.  They  will  grow  in  any  soil,  but 
will  not  flourish  where  they  are  much  shaded.  V.  offi- 
cindlis  has  been  used  in  Germany  and  Sweden  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  tea.  Some  prefer  V.  chamsedrys  for  the  same 
purpose. 

Valerianas.  Several  species  are  showy  border  plants, 
with  small  flowers  in  large  close  flattened  panicles.  V. 
dioica  is  remarkable  for  having  the  stamens  and  pistils  in 
separate  flowers,  situated  on  different  plants ;  the  flowers 
are  of  a  blush  colour.  V.  phit,  a  large  growing  species 
with  white  flowers,  and  V.  rubra,  with  its  varieties  which 
bloom  all  the  season,  are  the  finest  of  the  genus.  They 
are  now  given  to  Centranthus.  They  are  all  of  easy  cul- 
ture in  common  garden  earth,  but  preferring  moist  shady 
situations.  In  flower  from  May  to  September. 

Viola,  a  genus  consisting  of  upwards  of  eighty  species, 
of  low  pretty  plants,  of  great  diversity  of  colour  and  foliage. 
Many  of  them  are  natives,  and  well  worth  a  situation  in  our 
gardens.  They  mostly  delight  in  sandy  loam,  and  a  little 
shade.  A  few  of  the  species  grown  in  moist  situations. 
The  most  esteemed  varieties  for  fragrance  are,  V.  odorata 
purpurea  plena,  double  purple,  V.  odorata  alba  plena, 
double  white,  and  the  double  Neapolitan.  They  flower 
very  early,  and  make  good  edgings  where  they  are  kept  in 
order ;  flowering  profusely  from  April  to  June,  and  again 
in  autumn. 

Yucca,  Adam's  needle.  This  is  a  very  showy  and  orna- 
mental genus;  their  character  forming  a  picturesque  con- 
trast in  the  flower  garden;  foliage  long,  narrow,  lanceo- 
late and  stiff;  with  white  campanulate  flowers,  about  two 
inches  in  diameter,  in  conical  spikes  from  two  to  four  feet 
long,  arising  from  the  centre  of  the  plant,  containing  fre- 
quently from  two  to  four  hundred  florets.  They  are  prin- 
cipally native  plants.  Y.  stricta;  Y.  supdrba;  Y.  aloi- 
folia ;  Y.  angustifolia,  Y,  gloriosa,  Y.  recurvifolia,  and 
Y.  filamentosa,  are  all  fine  species,  and  will  grow  in  any 
common  soil.  When  in  flower,  if  protected  from  the  sun 
by  an  awning,  they  will  be  of  considerable  duration. 
There  are  variegated  varieties  of  stricta  and  aloifolia,  which 
look  very  handsome  in  foliage,  but  are  at  present  very  rare, 
and  it  will  be  a  number  of  years  before  they  are  plentiful. 


48  BULBOUS  ROOTS.  [March. 

There  ought,  at  least,  to  be  one  specimen  of  each  in  every 
garden. 

Having  given  the  names  and  characters  of  a  few  herba- 
ceous plants,  all  or  most  of  them  easily  obtained,  many  of 
them  extremely  handsome,  and  such  as  agree  best  with 
transplanting  at  this  season  of  the  year;  for  several  others, 
such  as  Pssonias,  or  any  other  strong  tuberous  or  bulbous 
sorts,  see  October.  Where  they  are  in  pots,  they  can  be 
planted  at  any  time,  the  weather  permitting,  provided  the 
ball  of  earth  is  not  broken.  But  where  they  are  only  to 
be  removed,  the  best  time  is  in  October  or  November,  or 
just  as  vegetation  commences  in  the  spring.  That  herba- 
ceous plants  may  look  to  the  best  advantage,  and  flower 
well,  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  get  into  large  stools  ;  but 
as  soon  as  they  are  above  one  foot  in  diameter,  they  should 
be  divided. 

Very  frequently  those  who  perform  this  operation,  take 
the  spade,  and  cut  a  piece  ofF  all  round,  which,  to  a  degree, 
improves  the  look  of  the  plant;  but  this  is  only  half  justice. 
It  should  be  lifted  entirely,  fresh  soil  given,  or  removed  a 
few  feet,  and  planted  a  little  deeper  than  it  was  before,  as 
the  plant  tends  apparently  to  grow  out  of  the  soil  when 
allowed  to  stand  long.  If  the  weather  becomes  dry  shortly 
after  transplanting,  give  them  a  few  waterings,  until  they 
have  taken  fresh  roots,  which  will  be  within  two  weeks. 
Colour  should  be  diversified  through  the  garden  as  much 
as  practicable,  and  the  highest  growing  sorts  planted  far- 
thest from  the  walk,  so  as  all  may  appear  in  view.  At  all 
times  avoid  crowding  plants  together. 


BULBOUS  ROOTS. 

About  the  middle  of  this  month,  let  the  covering  of  tan, 
saw-dust,  or  decayed  leaves,  be  cleared  from  the  beds  of  such 
as  were  directed  to  be  covered  in  November ;  afterwards 
carefully  stirring  the  surface  among  them  with  a  kind  of 
wooden  spatula,  or  wedge,  breaking  the  surface  fine ;  then 
dress  all  the  alleys  smooth  and  neat  with  the  hoe  and  rake, 
clearing  away  every  particle  of  litter.  When  the  leaves 
of  Tulips  are  expanding^  they  frequently  become  entan- 
gled so  much,  that  the  force  of  growth  breaks  the  foliage : 


March.']  BULBOUS  ROOTS.  49 

if  there  are  any  appearances  of  this  at  any  time,  they 
should  be  set  right  with  the  hand.  In  early  seasons  these 
roots  will  be  far  advanced,  and  perhaps  one  night  of  frost, 
unexpectedly,  might  materially  injure  them.  When  there 
is  any  suspicion  of  cold  weather,  hoops  should  be  spanned 
across  the  beds,  so  that  the  necessary  mats  or  canvas  could 
in  a  few  minutes  be  placed  over  them,  to  ward  off  danger. 
Protect  the  finest  sorts  from  heavy  drenching  rains,  and 
give  them  small  neat  rods  for  support,  as  they  grow  up.  If 
the  rods  and  tyings  are  painted  green,  the  effect  will  be 
improved.  These  directions  equally  apply  to  Narcissus, 
Jonquils,  Iris  and  all  Holland  Bulbs. 


CARNATIONS,  PINKS,  PRIMROSES,  &c., 

Which  have  been  protected  by  frames  through  the  win- 
ter, must  have  at  all  favourable  opportunities  plenty  of  air 
admitted  to  them  by  lifting  the  sashes,  and  in  fine  mild  days 
and  nights,  the  sashes  may  be  taken  entirely  off.  Divest 
them  of  all  decayed  leaves,  and  stir  up  the  earth  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  pots;  those  that  are  intended  to  be  planted  in 
the  garden  may  be  set  to  one  side,  while  those  that  are  to 
be  kept  in  pots  must  be  more  strictly  attended  to.  Of 
these  the  Pinks  and  Carnations  should  be  repotted  about 
the  first  of  the  month.  Those  that  have  been  kept  in  four 
inch  pots,  should  be  put  into  pots  of  seven  inches,  and 
those  that  are  in  five  inch  pots  maybe  put  into  eight  inch. 
Give  a  gentle  watering  after  repotting.  Pinks  do  not 
require  the  pots  so  large,  but  the  same  treatment  in  every 
other  respect.  Where  the  extremities  of  the  leaves  are 
decayed,  cut  them  off,  with  any  other  decayed  leaves : 
the  pots  must  be  well  drained  with  shivers  or  fine  gravel. 
Give  them  plenty  of  air,  otherwise  they  will  be  weak  in 
growth. 

Primroses  and  Daisies  may  be  planted  out  in  shady 
situations;  the  sun  destroys  them  during  summer  if  ex- 
posed. 


50  AURICULAS RANUNCULUS  AND  ANEMONE.      \_MttTCh. 


AURICULAS. 

These  beautiful  and  highly  interesting  plants  are,  to  a 
great  degree,  neglected  in  our  collections.  .  It  cannot  be 
from  want  of  beauty  or  fragrance  that  they  have  not  at- 
tracted our  attention,  for  they  are  exquisite  in  both.  We 
are  rather  inclined  to  think  that  those  who  have  them  do 
not  give  them  the  treatment  they  require  yearly  to  perfect 
their  bloom.  They  should  now  have  the  surface  earth 
taken  off  about  half  an  inch  down,  and  fresh  soil  added, 
which  will  cause  them  to  put  on  fresh  fibres  about  the  upper 
part  of  the  roots,  and  greatly  increase  their  growth.  The 
frame  in  which  they  are  placed  should  now  face  the  east, 
as  the  sun  will  be  too  strong  for  them;  and  about  the  end 
of  the  month  turn  it  to  the  north.  The  glass  of  the  frame 
may  be  white-washed,  which  will  partially  shade  them 
from  the  sun,  that  being  their  delight.  Give  them  water 
sparingly  until  they  begin  to  grow,  and  never  water  them 
over  the  foliage  previous  to  flowering,  as  water  injures  that 
fine  mealy-like  substance  found  on  many  of  the  sorts,  and 
which  so  greatly  improves  their  beauty.  Defend  them, 
therefore,  from  rain  and  high  winds.  To  have  them  flower 
strongly,  only  one  flower  stem  should  be  allowed  to  grow. 
The  first  one  that  shows  is  generally  the  best.  At  all 
events  leave  the  strongest,  and  cut  off  all  the  others,  or 
only  nip  off  the  flower  pips,  which  answers  the  same  end. 
Never  keep  the  sash  off  during  night,  in  case  it  rain  before 
morning. 


RANUNCULUS  AND  ANEMONE. 

The  frames  of  Ranunculus  and  Anemone  must  have 
plenty  of  air,  and  give  frequent  sprinklings  of  water.  The 
sashes  or  shutters  should  be  taken  entirely  off  every  mild 
day,  and  in  fine  nights  leave  them  exposed  to  the  dew. 
Stir  the  earth  among  them,  breaking  it  fine  and  making  all 
neat  and  clean.  They  require  liberal  supplies  of  water 
after  they  begin  to  grow. 


March.'}  ROSES.  51 


ROSES. 

This  is  the  most  favourable  month  for  planting  all  kinds 
of  garden  roses,  which  must  be  done  as  soon  as  the  wea- 
ther opens,  and  the  ground  in  a  proper  state.  The  earlier 
they  are  planted  the  more  perfect  they  will  flower.  Never 
delay  planting  when  there  is  an  opportunity ;  for  if  delay- 
ed until  the  leaves  are  expanded,  the  bloom  will  be  much 
weakened,  and  the  probability  is,  there  will  be  no  flowers, 
and  the  plants  meet  with  a  premature  death.  It  has  been 
said, "  there  is  a  particular  advantage  in  planting  some  every 
ten  days,  even  to  the  middle  of  May ;  for  the  flowering  of 
them  may  be  retarded  in  this  way:  and  the  bloom  of  these 
delightful  shrubs  continue  for  a  much  longer  period."  One 
moment's  reflection  will  convince  us,  that  nature,  while  in 
her  own  element,  will  not  be  retarded,  suppose  there  was 
no  danger  of  instantaneous  death  to  the  plants.  The  arti- 
ficial means  that  might  be  judiciously  adopted,  with  which 
we  are  acquainted,  to  keep  back  the  blooming  of  hardy 
plants,  is  to  lift  them  as  soon  in  spring  as  is  practicable, 
put  them  in  boxes  of  earth,  and  then  place  them  in  the 
driest  part  of  an  ice-house,  until  the  desired  time  of  plant- 
ing, which  may  be  delayed  as  long  as  the  required  time  of 
flowering.  This  will  be  found  a  true  method  of  retarding 
the  flowering  of  roses  especially,  and  not  going  counter  to 
the  rules  and  principles  of  nature.  There  are  many  beau- 
tiful varieties  of  the  garden  rose  in  cultivation,  the  names 
of  the  finest  of  which  we  will  give  in  the  following  cata- 
logue : 

African  black,   very   dark   crimson,   compact    and  very 

double. 
Agreeable  violet,  large  purplish  red,  expanded  and  double 

fine. 

Aurora,  bright  pink,  compact  and  double. 
Belle  amabile,  fine  dark  red,  large  and  double. 
Belle  Hebe,  large  purplish  red,  cupped,  double  and  fine. 
Belle  rouennaise,  a  very  superb  rose,  with  red  centre  and 

blush  edge. 
Baron  de  Stael,  bright  cherry  colour,  globular,  large,  and 

double. 


52  ROSES.  [March. 

Belle  Africaine,  same  as  African  black  or  African. 
Broomley  rose,  fine  red  with  blush  edge,  very  compact  and 

double. 
Black  Tuscany,  dark  crimson,  changeable,  expanded  and 

double. 
Belgic  or  Dutch  Prpvins,  red  with  very  large  flowers,  cup- 

ped and  extra  double. 


Cinder  rose,  large  blush,  with  pink  centre,  expanded  and 

double. 

Delicious,  rosy  colour,  large  compact  and  double. 
Edinberger,  violet  purple,  very  compact  and  most  perfectly 

double. 

Flanders,  vermilion  colour,  compact  and  double. 
Fanny  parrissot,  pale  blush,  very  compact  and  double. 
Grandis  royal,  deep  pink,  large,  expanded  and  double. 
Globe  white  hip,  beautiful  white,  globular,  and  most  per- 

fectly double. 

Helen,  light  pink,  very  large  cupped  and  fine. 
Harrisoni,*  bright  yellow,  cupped,  small  and  semi-double. 
Isabella,  blush  pink,  very  profuse,  cupped  and  double. 
Imperial  blush,  delicate  blush,  expanded,  large  and  double. 
Juliana,  delicate  pink,  compact  and  double. 
King  of  Rome,  deep  red,  very  large,  compact  and  exqui- 

sitely double. 

King  of  the  reds,  red,  expanded  and  double. 
King  of  Mexico,  reddish  purple,  imbricated  and  very  dou- 

ble. 
Leonore,  purplish  red,  very  compact,  imbricated,  and  dou- 

ble. 
La  Belle  Augusta,  shaded  blush  and  white,  expanded  and 

double. 
La  folie  de  carse,  red,  robust  habit,  profuse  flowering,  im- 

bricated and  double. 
Madam  Hardy,  pure  white,  large,  globular  and  exquisitely 

double. 
Moss  rose,t  delicate  rose,  globular  and  perfectly  double. 

*  This  Rose  with  a  "Florist's  privilege,"  has  been  sold  for  the 
yellow  sweetbrier.  It  is  also  called  Hogg's  Yellow  Rose. 

f  It  has  long  been  questioned,  whether  the  Moss  Rose  was  a  dis- 
'•T.t  soecies,  or  merely  a  seminal  variety  of  the  Provins  Rose.  I 


March.~]  ROSES.  53 

Moss  blush,  pale  blush,  globular  and  very  double. 

white,  old  white  pale  flesh  colour,  expanded  and 

double. 
white  bath,  or  Clifton,  white  moss,  fine  white  cupped 

and  double. 
crimson  or  Damask,  very  bright  rose,  expanded  and 

double,  and  very  mossy. 

("This  is  not  properly  a  moss  rose, 
crested  moss  or      J    but  has  a  curiously  mossy  calyx 

crested  Provins,    |    that  envelops  the  bud — pink, 
l_  globular  and  double. 

Luxemburg,  bright  red,  compact  and  double. 

Marbree,  red,  very  faintly  mottled. 

• panache,  frequently  striped. 

poncteau,  semi-double,  spotted. 

perpetual  white,  blooming  in  clusters. 

unique  de  Provence,  white. 

Nonpareil,  rosy  red,  compact  and  perfectly  double. 
Negritina,  pink,  very  compact,  imbricated  and  double. 
Ombre  superb,  dark  crimson,  cupped  and  double. 
Provins  cabbage,  see  Cabbage  Provins. 

red,  see  red  Provins. 

white,  see  white  Provins. 

Prince  de  Joinville,  bright  rose,  large,  expanded  and  finely 

double. 

Proserpine  negro,  dark  red,  globular,  fine  and  double. 
Prolific  blush,  changeable  blush,  expanded  and  double. 
Queen  of  violets,  violet  colour,  compact,  cupped  and  very 

double. 
Queen   of  Roses,  beautiful  rosy  purple,  imbricated  and 

double. 

Queen  Caroline,  fine  changeable  red,  cupped  and  double. 
Royal  Portugal,  fine  pink,  very  compact,  and  exquisitely 

double. 
Royal  virgin,  blush,  expanded,  large,  and  double. 

perfectly  agree  with  the  latter  opinion — for  in  June,  1836, 1  saw  in 
my  nursery  a  plant  of  the  Moss  rose  with  a  large  shoot  that  had 
sported  back  to  the  Provins  Rose,  and  entirely  destitute  of  moss 
on  either  shoots  or  buds.  We  have  no  faith  in  black  and  yellow 
Moss  Roses ;  all  we  have  seen  for  such,  have  proven  false  to  their 
character. 

5* 


54  UOSES.  [March. 

Sweet  Brier,  single  pink. 

celestial,  blush,  fine  double  flowered. 

Swiss  Rose,  large  pink,  expanded,  and  profusely  double. 

Tuscany,  see  Black  Tuscany. 

Unique  or  white  Provins,  pure  white,  very  large  globular, 

and  double,  superb. 
Unique  striped,  often  is  perfectly  white,  and  merely  a  sport 

from  the  former. 

Violatum,  violet  purple,  expanded  and  double. 
Vandal  carmine,  compact,  imbricated,  and  double. 

We  mention  these  as  fine ;  but  among  several  thousand 
cultivated  varieties  of  the  garden  rose,  there  must  be  many 
of  equal,  if  not  surpassing  beauty;  of  Rosa  spinosissima, 
there  are  about  five  hundred  varieties  ;  Rosa  gallica,  two 
hundred ;  R.  centifolia,  one  hundred  and  fifty ;  R .  damas- 
cene, above  one  hundred ;  R.  alba,  fifty ;  j?.  rubigindsa, 
thirty ;  and  of  various  sorts  above  eleven  hundred.  In 
several  individual  collections  of  Europe,  there  are  culti- 
vated above  fifteen  hundred  species,  sub-species,  and  vari- 
eties. 

When  planted,  they  are  too  frequently  crowded  indiscri- 
minately among  other  shrubs,  which  prevents  them  having 
the  effect  they  would  have  if  planted  singly  or  grouped. 
They  vary  in  size  in  different  sorts  from  one  to  ten  feet. 
When  planted  in  the  latter  method,  they  should  be  assimi- 
lated in  size  of  leaves  and  manner  of  growth,  with  the 
greatest  variation  of  flower ;  or  if  planted  in  small  patches, 
each  distinct  in  colour,  will  have  a  very  picturesque  effect. 
Another  desirable  and  fanciful  method,  is  to  plant  them  in 
figures,  with  edgings  of  wire,  willow,  or  any  other  sub- 
stitute, in  imitation  of  basket  work,  which  is  called  "  bas- 
kets of  roses ;"  the  ground  enclosed  in  the  basket  margin 
to  be  made  convex,  which  will  present  a  greater  surface  to 
the  eye ;  the  strong  shoots  to  be  layered,  or  kept  down  by 
pegs  in  the  ground,  having  the  points  of  the  shoots, only  to 
appear  above  the  soil,  which  should  be  covered  with  moss. 
With  this  treatment,  in  a  few  years  the  whole  surface  of 
the  basket  will  be  covered  with  rose  buds  and  leaves,  of 
one  or  various  sorts.  If  two  or  three  of  the  larger  growing 
sorts  are  taken,  such  as  Moss  or  Provins,  they  may  be 
trained  so  as  to  cover  a  surface  of  several  square  yards. 


March.']  CLIMBING  ROSES.  55 

A  modern  invention  in  the  cultivation  of  the  rose  is,  to 
grow  them  in  shape  of  trees,  by  budding  on  strong  growing 
kinds  at  different  heights  from  the  ground,  according  to 
taste,  and  the  purposes  intended.  If  budded  on  Rosa  Cd- 
nina,  or  Dog  Rose,  they  are  much  more  valuable :  it  is  a 
lasting  and  strong  growing  stock,  and  the  worst  of  all  stocks 
is  the  Boursalt  rose,  and  it  is  too  frequently  resorted  to, 
being  easy  of  propagation.  They  will  form  in  a  few  years 
handsome  round  heads,  which  will  flower  more  freely  than 
by  layers,  or  trained  on  their  own  stalk.  They  are  parti- 
cularly desirable  among  low  shrubs.  When  planted,  they 
should  be  well  supported  by  strong  rods,  to  prevent  the 
wind  from  destroying  them.  If  any  of  the  roots  have  been 
bruised  in  lifting,  cut  off  the  bruised  part  with  the  knife, 
and  likewise  shorten  the  young  shoots ;  breaking  the  earth 
well  about  their  roots  when  planting.  The  rose  has  been 
an  esteemed  shrub  among  all  civilized  nations.  The  flow- 
ers are  double,  semi-double,  and  single ;  the  colours  are 
pink,  red,  purple,  white,  yellow,  and  striped,  with  almost 
every  shade  and  mixture  ;  the  odour  universally  grateful. 
This  plant  is  cultivated  in  every  garden,  from  the  humblest 
cottager  to  the  loftiest  prince,  and  by  commercial  gardeners 
in  Europe  extensively,  for  distilling  rose  water,  and  making 
the  essential  oil  of  roses.  They  delight  in  a  rich  loamy 
soil,  and  require  plenty  of  moisture  while  in  a  growing  state. 
Those  sorts  which  throw  up  numerous  suckers  should  be 
lifted  every  three  or  four  years,  reduced,  and  then  trans- 
planted. When  thus  removing  them,  avoid  as  much  as 
possible  exposing  their  roots ;  and  when  newly  planted, 
mulching  is  of  considerable  advantage  ;  that  is,  putting  half 
rotten  stable-manure  on  the  surface  of  the  ground  round 
their  roots,  which  prevents  evaporation,  and  keeps  up  a 
constant  moisture.  If  this  were  done  in  general  to  our 
roses  in  dry  seasons,  it  would  greatly  improve  their  flower- 
ing. For  Chinese  and  other  roses,  see  next  month. 


CLIMBING  ROSES. 

This  is  the  best  time  to  prune  ever-blooming  climbing 
roses,  such  as  Champney,  Noisette,  &c.  Many  of  these, 
when  allowed  to  grow  year  after  year  without  pruning,  be- 


50  GRASS  PLATS  AND  WALKS.  \_Mdrch. 

come  unsightly :  they  never  bear  flowers  on  the  old  wood, 
that  is,  wood  of  three  or  four  years.  Having  a  tendency 
to  throw  out  young  shoots  from  the  bottom  of  the  stem,  the 
old  wood  should  be  cut  out,  thus  encouraging  the  young 
wood,  which  the  second  year  bears  the  most  and  finest 
flowers.  In  severe  winters,  the  extremities  of  the  shoots 
are  frequently  killed,  and  we  have  often  seen  all  the  wood 
black  or  brown,  and  apparently  dead.  When  that  is  the 
case,  it  is  best  to  leave  it  until  they  begin  to  grow,  which 
will  show  what  is  dead  or  alive,  when  they  can  be  pruned 
to  better  advantage. 


DECIDUOUS  ORNAMENTAL  FLOWERING  SHRUBS. 

The  earlier  the  planting  of  these  shrubs  is  attended  to  in 
this  month,  the  more  will  their  growth  and  flowering  be 
promoted,  having  all  finished  before  the  buds  begin  to 
expand.  (For  kinds  recommended,  see  list,  end  of  the 
volume.)  They  should  never  be  planted  too  thick,  but 
leave  space  for  them  to  grow  as  they  respectively  require, 
and  according  as  they  are  designed  for  open  or  close  shrub- 
beries, clumps,  or  thickets.  Have  all  in  readiness,  that  it 
may  be  done  with  as  much  expedition  as  possible,  to  pre- 
vent their  roots  from  being  dried  by  the  sun  and  wind  in 
time  of  planting.  Make  the  holes  intended  for  their  recep- 
tion round,  capacious,  and  deep  enough  to  hold  their  roots, 
without  confining  them  in  the  least,  and  loosen  well  the 
bottom,  putting  new  and  fresh  soil  under  their  roots,  break- 
ing and  pulverizing  it  during  the  operation,  and  frequently 
shaking  the  plant  as  you  progress  in  filling  up.  When 
done,  make  all  firm  with  the  foot,  leaving  a  circular  cavity 
to  hold  the  water  they  will  require  during  dry  weather. 
Give  rods,  and  tie  with  bands  all  that  need  that  support 
before  they  are  left,  lest  they  should  be  neglected.  Cut 
off  any  of  the  bruised  roots  or  irregular  growths  of  the 
branches. 


GRASS  PLATS  AND  WALKS. 

A  most  wonderful  renovator  of  grass  plats  may  be  found 
in  Guano — take  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  to  twelve  square 


March.~\  GRASS  PLATS  AND  WALKS.  57 

yards,  mix  it  with  double  the  quantity  of  sand,  and  before 
rain  in  April  or  May,  sow  the  mixture  over  the  grass — in 
a  few  days  its  effects  will  be  seen.  Where  grass  lawns 
are  poor,  and  of  a  pale  yellow  colour,  about  four  hundred 
weight  to  the  acre,  mixed  with  sand  or  dry  earth,  will 
effectually  restore  them  to  a  luxuriant  verdure. 

Rake  and  sweep  off  from  these  all  litter,  and  worm-cast 
earth,  and  give  an  occasional  rolling  to  settle  the  ground, 
and  render  the  surface  smooth,  where  the  sythe  is  to  be 
used.  The  grass  will  likewise  grow  better  by  rolling  it 
where  the  frost  has  partially  thrown  it  out,  and  add  greatly 
to  its  beauty.  Cut  the  edgings  with  an  edging  iron  or 
spade,  so  that  the  whole  will  have  a  finished  appearance. 
If  any  new  turf  is  required  to  be  laid  down,  this  is  a  very 
good  time  to  do  it,  before  vegetation  is  strong ;  as  the  turf 
that  is  now  laid  will  have  taken  root  before  the  dry  season 
commences.  Where  a  great  extent  is  to  be  done,  sowing 
might  be  adopted;  but  it  will  not  have  the  effect  of  turf 
under  three  years,  and  during  that  time  must  be  carefully 
cut,  after  the  first  season,  every  three  weeks,  while  grow- 
ing, nor  must  it  be  too  frequently  walked  upon.  White 
clover  and  true  perennial  rye-grass  are  the  seeds  most 
proper  for  sowing.  The  ground  must,  in  the  first  place, 
be  all  equally  made  up,  and  leveled  with  the  spade  and 
rake ;  not  "cart  loads  of  soil  laid  down  and  leveled,"  which 
would  finally  become  very  uneven,  and  would  need  to  be 
lifted  and  relaid  next  year.  The  best  turf  is  that  of  a  close 
growing  pasture  or  common,  free  from  all  kinds  of  weeds 
or  strong  roots,  and  the  grass  short.  To  cut  it  expeditiously, 
be  provided  with  a  turfing-iron ;  but  if  that  cannot  be  con- 
veniently had,  a  spade  may  do  very  well.  Strain  a  line 
tight,  cutting  the  turf  lengthwise,  at  equal  distances,  from 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches.  Next  draw  the  line  across,  cut- 
ting from  one  and  a  half  to  two  feet;  then  cut  them  up  with 
the  spade,  about  one  and  a  half  inch  thick.  In  laying,  join 
them  close  and  alternately;  when  done,  K>at  them  firm  with 
a  level  wooden  beater,  and  roll  with  a  heavy  roller. 

Grass  walks,  in  the  last  century,  were  very  popular ;  but 
time  having  put  them  to  the  test,  they  are  found  unfit  for 
walking  upon  or  using  in  any  manner,  almost  for  one-half 
of  the  year ;  therefore,  not  answering  the  purposes  intend- 
ed. They  require  great  attention  to  keep  them  in  order; 


58  GRAVEL  WALKS.  \_March. 

and  if  not  always  neat  and  clean,  they  are  a  disagreeable 
object  in  a  garden ;  but  when  they  are  well  dressed,  their 
effect  is  very  enlivening.  Where  they  are  desired,  pre- 
pare the  ground  as  above  directed ;  making  the  walk  a 
little  higher  than  the  adjoining  borders,  to  prevent  the  earth 
from  being  washed  on  it  by  the  rain.  Allowing  the  walks 
to  be  six  feet  wide,  make  the  centre  five  inches  higher  than 
the  sides,  or  about  seven-eighths  of  an  inch  to  the  foot 
whatever  the  breadth  may  be,  which  will  form  a  gentle  de- 
clivity to  throw  off  the  rain.  When  laid,  beat  and  roll  it 
well ;  cutting  the  edge  neat  and  even.  Water  frequently 
if  the  weather  sets  in  dry.  To  keep  grass  walks  or  plats 
in  order,  they  should  be  mown  once  every  three  or  four 
weeks  from  May  to  September,  and  the  grass  each  time 
swept  clean  off.  When  the  grass  is  allowed  to  get  long 
before  being  cut,  the  roots  become  tender;  and  die  when 
exposed  to  the  sun  ;  at  last  the  grass  is  all  in  spots,  and  in 
another  year  requires  to  be  relaid.  » 


GRAVEL  WALKS. 

A  practice  once  existed  of  turning  these  into  heaps,  or 
ridges  during  winter,  to  destroy  weeds,  &c.  But  this  has 
almost  been  given  up  as  unnecessary,  unsightly,  inconve- 
nient, and  not  doing  any  material  service. 

Where  the  surface  of  these  has  become  foul,  irregular, 
or  mossy,  they  had  better  be  turned  over  four  or  five  inches 
deep  where  the  gravel  will  admit  of  it ;  but  if  not,  hoe  and 
rake  them  perfectly  clean,  give  a  new  coat  of  gravel,  and 
pick  up  any  stones  that  you  think  too  large ;  then  give 
them  a  good  rolling,  applying  it  frequently  after  showers 
of  rain.  When  they  are  well  attended  to  just  now,  they 
will  look  well  all  the  season ;  but  if  neglected,  they  take 
more  labour,  and  are  never  in  such  good  condition. 

Fancy-edgings  of  Thyme,  Thrift,  Gentiana,  Lavender, 
and  Violets — (Daisies  may  be  used  if  the  situation  is 
shaded.)  The  whole  of  these  may  be  planted  by  the  line 
with  the  dibber  except  Thyme,  which  lay  as  directed  for 
Box.  See  this  month,  under  that  head.  Any  time  in  this 
or  beginning  of  next  month  will  answer  to  make  edgings 
of  these ;  and  if  dry  weather  occurs  before  they  begin  to 


March.~]  OF  GRAFTING.  59 

grow  after  planting,  they  must  have  frequent  waterings 
until  they  have  taken  fresh  root.  Thyme  requires  to  be 
dressed  twice  during  the  season  to  keep  it  in  order. 


OF  GRAFTING. 

There  are  four  methods  of  grafting.  It  can  be  applied 
to  all  kinds  of  .shrubbery,  choosing  a  common  species  from 
the  same  genus  that  the  sort  belongs  to,  which  is  intended 
to  be  multiplied.  The  one  we  will  describe  is  whip  or 
tongue  grafting,  which  is  the  preferable  and  most  expe- 
ditious plan  with  all  deciduous  shrubs  or  trees.  The  stock 
upon  which  it  is  performed  must  be  slender,  from  two-thirds 
of  an  inch  to  any  diameter  suitable  to  the  thickness  of  the 
graft.  Having  headed  the  stock  at  a  clear  smooth  part, 
slope  it  on  one  side  with  a  sharp  knife  at  a  very  acute 
angle,  make  a  slit  on  the  lower  side  of  the  slope  about  an 
inch  downward,  to  receive  the  tongue  or  wedge  of  the 
graft  or  scion.  Secondly,  having  the  prepared  scions  cut 
into  lengths  of  3,  4  or  5  eyes,  take  one  which  matches  the 
stock  in  size,  and  slope  the  bottom  of  it  so  as  to  fit  the 
stock,  that  the  rinds  of  both  may  correspond  exactly,  espe- 
cially on  one  side  and  at  bottom  ;  make  also  a  slit  upward 
in  the  graft,  like  that  in  the  slope  of  the  stock,  so  as  the 
one  may  be  inserted  in  the  other  as  evenly  and  completely 
as  possible.  Let  the  graft  be  carefully  held  in  its  due  po- 
sition, while  a  bandage  is  applied.  Take  strands  of  Rus- 
sian mat,  and  bind  them  in  a  neat  manner  several  times 
round  the  stock  and  graft.  Lastly,  cover  the  joint  with 
well-worked  clay,  coat  from  half  an  inch  below  the  bottom 
of  the  graft  to  an  inch  above  the  top  of  the  stock,  and  to 
the  thickness  of  half  an  inch  all  round,  finish  it  in  an  ob- 
long globular  form,  taking  care  to  work  it  close,  that  no  air 
may  penetrate.  If  the  clay  is  covered  with  moss,  it  will 
partially  prevent  it  from  cracking. 

The  grafts  will  have  taken  when  they  begin  to  grow 
freely :  then  the  clay  may  be  broken  off,  and  the  bandage 
loosened,  and  put  on  again,  but  not  so  tight  as  formerly ; 
give  the  drafts  a  stake  for  support,  tying  them  thereto  to 
prevent  accidents  from  the  wind.  Allow  no  shoots  to  arise 
from  the  stock. 


60  ANNUALS.  [April 

APRIL. 

The  ambition  of  every  amateur  and  gardener  during  this 
month  is,  to  be  at  the  head  of  every  department  and  over 
every  spot.  The  operator's  activity,  in  this  month,  almost 
regulates  the  whole  season.  Every  weed  ought  to  be  cut 
down  as  soon  as  it  appears,  and  the  proverbial  saying  will 
be  realized,  "  A  garden  that  is  well  kept  is  easily  kept;" 
one  hour  of  laborious  industry  now  will  save  two  in  the 
heat  of  summer.  A  wet  day  need  cause  no  loss  of  time : 
prepare  rods,  bands  and  tallies,  to  be  in  readiness  when 
required.  Many,  in  the  height  of  bustle,  never  finish  pro- 
perly as  they  proceed,  which  is  the  worst  of  practices. 
Every  operation  ought  to  be  completely  and  properly  finish- 
ed before  another  is  taken  in  hand,  which  will  ultimately 
prove  the  quickest  and  best  method  to  work  upon. 

Let  digging,  hoeing  and  raking  be  done  as  expeditiously 
as  strength  will  allow,  that  the  time  may  be  devoted,  for  a 
few  weeks,  to  the  beautifying  of  the  garden  and  parterre,  by 
sowing  and  planting. 

ANNUALS. 

Those  that  are  tender  and  were  sown  last  month,  accord- 
ing to  directions,  will  be  ready  to  prick  out  into  another 
glass  frame.  Keep  them  a  few  inches  apart  to  let  the  air 
circulate.  Give  them  frequent  sprinklings  with  water,  and 
shade  them  with  a  mat  for  a  few  days  until  they  have  taken 
fresh  root;  then  give  them  plenty  of  air,  and  by  the  first 
of  next  month,  expose  them  night  and  day,  to  harden  the 
plants  for  the  open  ground.  A  few  of  the  annual  seeds  of 
every  description,  and  of  every  country  and  climate,  may 
be  sown  any  time  after  the  middle  of  the  month.  If  the 
season  prove  favourable,  they  will  do  well ;  but  reserving 
a  part  to  sow  about  the  15th  of  May,  will  guard  against 
every  extreme. 


JlpriL~\  HYBRID  CHINESE  ROSES.  61 


BIENNIALS  AND  PERENNIALS. 

Any  biennials  that  are  intended  to  be  removed,  and  not 
done  last  month,  must  not  be  delayed  longer.  The  roots  of 
many  of  them  will  be  very  strong,  and,  if  possible,  a  cloudy 
day  should  be  chosen  for  the  operation.  Give  one  or  two 
copious  waterings,  and,  if  necessary,  shade  them  from  the 
sun  till  they  begin  to  grow. 

Perennials. — For  a  limited  description  of  several  genera 
and  species,  see  last  month.  Where  dividing  the  root  or 
replanting  is  required,  let  it  be  done  forthwith.  If  the  wea- 
ther is  dry,  they  must  be  carefully  watered  and  shaded  for 
a  few  days. 


ROSES. 

The  subject  of  garden  roses  was  touched  upon  last 
month,  as  far  as  our  limits  would  admit.  We  will  now 
give  short  descriptions  of  the  other  varieties  of  Roses  that 
are  of  more  delicate  character — and,  for  distinction  and 
perspicuity,  we  will  give  them  under  the  various  divisions 
to  which  they  belong. 


HYBRID  CHINESE  ROSES. 

All  the  varieties  of  this  fine  division  of  Roses  owe  their 
origin  to  the  Chinese  tea-scented,  Noisette  and  Bourbon 
Roses  impregnated  with  the  French  Provins,  and  other 
garden  Roses.  The  seeds  of  such  fertilized  flowers  pro- 
duce hybrid  Chinese  Roses.  These  have,  in  many  in- 
stances, resulted  from  accident;  but  latterly,  from  the  regu- 
lar impregnating  process.  The  superb  varieties  of  this  fine 
division  give  a  combination  of  all  that  is  grand  and  beau- 
tiful in  roses.  Their  flowers  are  of  the  most  elegant  forms 
and  richest  colours ;  their  foliage  of  great  luxuriance,  and 
their  branches  flexile  and  vigorous.  They  are  of  first  rate 
importance  for  covering  pillars  and  trellises,  their  shoots 
frequently  growing  from  six  to  ten  feet  in  one  season :  these 
6 


62  HYBRID  CHINESE  ROSES.  [April. 

shoots  may  be  thinned  out  year  after  year,  but  never  short- 
ened. They  require  very  rich  soil,  and  do  best  on  their 
own  bottom,  except  elegans,  Bizzare  de  le  Chine,  Welling- 
ton, and  other  dwarf  growing  sorts,  which  do  well  as 
standards.  If  they  only  possessed  the  property  of  ever- 
blooming,  they  would  be  decidedly  the  finest  division 
of  the  tribe ;  however,  their  general  beauty  and  richness 
of  colour  greatly  make  up  for  the  deficiency.  Many  of 
them  are  also  delightfully  fragrant.  The  following  are 
select  sorts : 

Blanchefleur,  white,  a  free  grower. 

Belle  parabere,  shaded  crimson,  a  strong  grower. 

Bon  Ginneure,  bright  red,  very  early. 

Belle  Marie,  bright  pink,  a  fine  dwarf. 

Bizzare  de  la  Chine,  brilliant  crimson,  superb  form,  profuse 
in  flower,  and  perfectly  double. 

Bouquet  blanc,  white  expanded,  large  and  very  double. 

Brennus  or  Brutus,  of  some  French  collections,  vivid  red 
or  nearly  scarlet,  and  as  a  pillar  rose  is  one  of  the 
finest  objects  I  have  ever  witnessed ;  flowers  ex- 
tremely large,  and  of  the  most  exquisite  form,  cup- 
ped, and  perfectly  double. 

Catel,  dark  crimson,  globular  shape  and  very  double. 

Duke  of  Devonshire,  rosy  lilac  faintly  striped  with  white, 
imbricated  and  perfect  in  its  shape. 

Due  de  Choiseul,  pink,  blush  and  rose,  perfect  form,  and 
makes  a  fine  standard  rose. 

Egerie,  brilliant  red,  a  free  grower. 

Fabvier,  very  large  changeable  pink  and  red. 

Fulgens  or  Malton,  unique  in  brilliancy,  approaching  bright 
scarlet,  with  large  globular  flowers,  and  of  vigorous 
growth,  and  foliage  finely  tinted  with  red. 

General  Lamarque,  very  dark  crimson,  of  luxuriant  growth, 
and  very  distinct. 

George  the  Fourth  (Rivers's)  most  beautiful  crimson,  very 
large  and  exquisitely  double,  and  of  globular  form. 
If  in  goofl.  rich  soil,  the  shoots  will  grow  eight  feet 
in  one  season ;  foliage,  of  a  shining  dark  reddish 
green,  and  is  unquestionably  one  of  the  finest  of  the 
family. 

Georgiana,  deep  pink,  cupped,  large  and  finely  double. 


J9pril.~]  HYBRID  CHINESE  ROSES.  63 

L'ingenue,  shaded  violet  crimson. 

Louis  Philippe,  very  splendid  dark  rose,  a  strong  grower, 
superb. 

Lady  Stuart,  flesh  colour,  the  form  of  the  flowers  before 
expansion  is  perfectly  spherical,  and  of  exceeding 
beauty. 

Parny  or  La  tourterelle,  lilac  or  dove  colour,  cupped  and 
very  double,  requires  to  grow  to  a  large  bush  be- 
fore its  beauty  of  form  and  profusion  of  bloom  can 
be  seen. 

Princess,  delicate  rose,  globular  and  perfectly  double,  and 
makes  an  excellent  standard  of  itself,  not  being  very 
subject  to  make  shoots  from  the  root. 

Pallagi,  Ne  plus  ultra,  or  Gloire  des  hybrids,  brilliant  red, 
globular,  showy,  and  perfectly  double. 

Prolifere,  dark  rosy  crimson,  changing  to  violet,  very  per- 
fect form,  a  dwarf. 

Triomphe  de  Laffay,  rosy  white,  large  and  very  beautiful. 

Victor  Hugo,  changeable  rosy  violet. 

Violet  de  Belgique,  dark  violet  crimson,  very  profuse  and 
perfect. 

Watts'  Celestial,  Celestial  Wells'  Cabbage  China,  Flora 
perfecta,  &c.,  (it  is  known  under  all  these  names,) 
delicate  rose,  petals  finely  cupped,  flower  rather  flat, 
is  a  free  grower,  and  very  profuse  of  bloom. 

Wellington,  (Lee's,)  rich  purple  crimson,  flower  beautifully 
formed;  globular  and  very  double.  The  first  view 
of  it  is  similar  to  Bizzare  de  la  Chine ;  but  it  is 
very  distinct  in  growth,  and  the  colour  fades  much 
sooner  than  in  the  latter  rose,  and,  indeed,  is  never 
so  bright. 

William  the  Fourth,  blush  red,  extremely  large,  very  per- 
fect form,  and  is  unquestionably  a  hybrid  from  the 
Cabbage  Provins,  and  makes  an  excellent  standard 
or  tea  rose. 


HYBRID  ROSES  THAT  ARE  STRIPED,  SPOTTED  OR 
MARBLED. 

Abbe  Berlese,  beautiful  crimson,  spotted  with  violet,  and  of 
the  most  perfect  form. 


64  PERPETUAL  ROSES.  [April. 

Camaieu,  delicate  rose,  with  lilac  stripes,  large  and  double. 

Prince  de  Chimay,  entirely  new,  crimson  purple,  beautifully 
marbled  with  rose,  large  and  very  perfect. 

Sandeur,  Sandeur  Panachee,  of  the  French,  and  King  of 
Hybrids  of  the  English,  bright  rose-colour,  beauti- 
fully spotted  and  striped  with  white,  very  double, 
and  of  perfect  form— luxuriant  in  growth,  and  the 
shoots  must  never  be  shortened — we  have  seen  it 
several  years  in  perfect  bloom. 

Village  Maid,  rose,  striped  with  white,  very  compact  and 
double,  and  makes  a  fine  standard.  This  rose  is  a 
French  hybrid  of  their  Cent-feuilles  ;  but  has  been 
brought  to  notice  under  an  English  name,  a  system 
too  much  practised  by  the  English  growers,  to  keep 
from  their  brother-craft  the  original  and  genuine 
French  name  of  the  article;  and  wejind  that  this 
system  is  occasionally  attempted  by  our  American 
brethren.  Shame! 


PERPETUAL  ROSES. 

This  division  of  Roses  has  been  brought  to  notice  but 
very  recently  in  this  country,  and  even  in  Europe  was  not 
known  till  about  1817,  except  in  the  red  and  white  four 
season's  roses,  which  have,  no  doubt,  contributed  a  large 
portion  of  their  "  Sweet  assistance ;"  for  in  many  of  them 
the  powerful  and  agreeable  fragrance  of  these  two  old 
roses  is  very  evident.  Unfortunately,  there  are  two-thirds 
of  these  roses  received  both  from  France  and  England 
under  the  head  of  Perpetuals,  which  only  bloom  once  in 
our  arid  and  hot  climate  ;  of  course  they  will  not  make  a  se- 
cond or  third  blooming,  unless  they,  at  the  same  time,  grow 
freely  and  make  strong  shoots ;  consequently,  they  require 
very  rich  and  deep  soil  strongly  manured,  and  repeated 
manurings  given  every  year,  also,  very  frequent  waterings 
during  the  summer  season  with  liquid  manure:  without  such 
nourishment,  the  best  of  perpetual  roses  will  only  flower 
but  once  a  year.  It  is  a  peculiar  feature  in  this  tribe  of 
roses,  that  they  are  nearly  all  reluctant  in  rooting  from  lay- 
ers, therefore,  it  will  be  difficult  to  procure  them  on  their 
own  bottoms.  However,  they  grow  admirably,  grafted  on, 


dfyft/.]  PERPETUAL  ROSES.  65 

or  budded  into,  any  of  our  strong-growing  native  roses ; 
although  the  French  Eglantine  is  most  generally  preferred. 
When  grown  in  a  luxuriant  and  well  cultivated  state,  they 
require  twice  pruning.  First,  in  November,  when  the 
beds  are  dressed,  cut  off  every  shoot  of  the  preceding  sum- 
mer's growth  about  two-thirds,  and  if  they  are  crowded, 
displace  some  of  them  entirely.  If  this  autumnal  pruning  be 
properly  attended  to,  they  will,  early  in  the  following  June, 
throw  out  a  great  number  of  luxuriant  shoots,  each  having 
one  or  more  flowers.  When  a  little  sacrifice  must  be  made 
to  have  a  fine  autumnal  bloom,  therefore,  leave  only  about 
half  the  number  of  shoots,  to  bring  forth  flowers,  the  re- 
mainder shorten  to  less  than  half  their  lengths.  Each 
shortened  branch  will  soon  put  forth  buds,  and  in  July  and 
August  the  plants  will  again  be  covered  with  flowers.  Our 
fine  growing  fall  months  will  greatly  assist  the  plants 
without  farther  aid  in  bringing  forth  their  third  blooming, 
which  will  be  in  September  and  October ;  and  Rose  du  Roi 
will  even  continue  in  mild  seasons  to  bloom  till  November. 
It  is  necessary,  at  all  times,  as  soon  as  the  flower  begins 
to  fade,  to  cut  it  off,  which  greatly  assists  the  vigour  of  the 
plants.  Although  in  colour  many  of  them  approximate 
each  other,  yet  the  following  sorts  will  prove  sufficiently 
distinct : 

Antinous,  light  crimson,  beautifully  formed,  and  perfectly 
double. 

Belle  Fabvier,  dark  rose,  very  large  and  double. 

Billiard,  rose-colour,  very  neat  form,  exceedingly  sweet, 
and  perfectly  double. 

D' Angers,  delicate  rose,  large  size,  compact  and  double. 

D'Esquermes,  bright  rose,  globular  shape  and  double. 

Du  Roi,  or  Lee's  crimson  perpetual,  bright  red,  cupped 
shape,  perfectly  double,  and  exquisitely  scented : 
in  warm  dry  weather,  this  rose  is  apt  to  become 
much  lighter  in  colour.  It  is  still  admitted  by  cul- 
tivators that  this  rose  is  yet  the  king  of  perpetuals. 

Grande  et  Belle,  or  Monstreuse  rose,  very  large,  cupped 
and  perfectly  double. 

Jean  Hachette,  (of  the  English,)  delicate  pink,  extremely 
large,  cupped  and  extra  double. 

Pulcherie,  dark  purple,  compact  and  double — pretty. 


66  GRAFTING  ROSES. 

Palmyra,  rosy  pink. 

Queen  of  Perpetuals,  or  Palotte  picotee,  pale  blush,  cup- 
ped and  perfectly  double. 

Scotch  Perpetual,  pale  blush,  a  profuse  and  constant 
bloomer. 

Stanwell,  perpetual  blush,  expanded  and  very  double ;  it 
has  much  the  habit  of  a  Scotch  Rose  :  when  bud- 
ded it  is  a  constant  and  free  bloomer. 

Four  season's  pale  rose,  cupped  and  double. 

White  four  seasons,  nearly  white,  expanded  and  double ; 
but  rarely  blooms  oftener  than  once  in  the  season. 

Perpetual  white  moss,  white,  blooms  in  large  clusters,  and 
when  in  bud,  is  very  handsome ;  but  the  flower  of 
itself  is  miserably  indifferent,  and,  moreover,  it  is 
not  a  true  perpetual.  It  is  one  of  those  floricultu- 
ral  misnomers  expressing  what  the  public  would 
wish  it  to  be,  and  not  what  it  actually  is. 


GRAFTING  'ROSES. 

The  operation  of  grafting,  from  the  pithy  nature  of  the 
stems  of  the  rose,  is  more  troublesome  and  seldom  succeeds 
so  well  as  budding,  though  when  the  buds  inserted  the  pre- 
vious summer  fail,  it  is  worth  while  to  have  recourse  to 
grafting,  which  may  succeed,  and  thus  make  up  for  the 
failure.  The  cleft  grafting  is  much  practised,  especially 
on  the  continent  of  Europe,  and  is  the  most  successful 
method.  It  is  necessary  that  the  scion,  (or  young  shoot 
that  is  intended  to  be  multiplied,)  should  be  cut  from  the 
bush  before  vegetation  commences,  and  placed  in  some 
shaded  situation  till  the  time  of  operation,  which  will  be 
after  the  buds  begin  to  swell  on  the  stock,  when  the  head 
of  the  stock  may  be  cut  horizontally  to  its  desired  height, 
and  a  slit  made  in  its  crown  downward  one  and  a  half  or 
two  inches.  The  scion  should  be  cut  into  lengths  of  two 
and  a  half  or  three  inches,  and  then  cutting  its  lower  end 
into  a  wedge-like  shape,  inserting  it  into  the  slit  of  the 
stock,  keeping  the  back  of  the  stock  and  scion  in  contact, 
which  must  be  held  firmly  and  bound  with  ligatures  of 
soft  bast-mat  or  worsted,  and,  in  order  to  render  it  water- 
proof, cover  it  with  a  paste  made  of  pitch  and  bees-wax, 


Jlpril.']  L'ISLE  DE  BOURBON  ROSES.  67 

or  clay  mixed  with  old  slacked  lime ;  if  the  latter  is  used, 
it  will  sometimes  crack,  which  must  be  carefully  filled  up. 
In  August  or  September  the  ligatures  may  be  cut  on  one 
side,  allowing  the  clay  or  wax  to  be  displaced  with  the 
natural  growth  of  the  plant.  Should  the  graft  fail,  you 
have  still  the  resource  of  budding  in  August  on  the  young 
shoots  that  will  grow  from  the  stock.  It  must  be  observed 
that  grafting  leaves  a  worse  wound  to  heal  over  than  bud- 
ding, unless  the  stock  and  scion  be  nearly  of  the  same 
size.  Every  bud  which  appears  below  the  graft  should 
be  carefully  rubbed  off,  except  one  or  two  nearest  the 
crown,  to  encourage  the  sap  upward  to  the  grafts,  and  as 
soon  as  the  latter  begin  to  throw  out  leaves,  the  shoots  from 
the  stock  should  be  shortened,  and  in  one  or  two  weeks 
more  entirely  taken  off,  if  the  scion  has  fairly  grown.  For 
whip  grafting,  see  page  59. 


L'ISLE  DE  BOURBON  ROSES. 

This  group  of  Roses  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  whole 
family  of  the  "  Queen  of  Flowers."  They  are  generally 
perfectly  hardy,  of  luxuriant  growth,  and  will  grow  almost 
in  any  soil.  They  are  profuse  in  blooming,  and  many  of 
them  delightful  in  fragrance,  from  June  to  October.  They 
are  flowering  ornaments  of  the  garden  either  as  standards, 
climbers,  or  bushes ;  their  foliage  is  large,  exuberant  and 
agreeable,  and  when  the  plants  are  established  and  well 
nurtured,  they  produce  their  flowers  in  immense  clusters. 
There  are  now  many  varieties ;  the  talent  and  ingenuity 
of  the  French  in  rose  culture  and  reproduction,  will  soon 
give  the  floral  world  a  farther  supply  of  some  fine  varie- 
ties, and  many^/mer  names.  I  can  cheerfully  recommend 
the  following  sorts,  which  require  pruning  similar  to  hybrid 
Roses : 

Acidalie,  rose  white,  large  and  perfect. 

Bouquet  de  Flore,  bright  rose,  large  flower  and  a  profuse 

bloomer. 
Augustine  Lelieur,  bright  rose,  beautifully  globular,  and 

perfectly  double. 


68  ROSA  INDICA,  &C.  [April. 

General  Dubourg,  pale  rose,  globular,  large  and  very 
double. 

Hermosa,  bright  rose,  most  perfect  cupped  form,  a  profuse 
bloomer,  and  highly  esteemed.  During  the  sum- 
mer months  it  loses  much  of  its  colour ;  but  in  au- 
tumn it  is  truly  charming. 

Le  Phoenix,  bright  red,  very  perfect  and  fragrant. 

Madame  Desprez,  dark  rose,  globular,  and  perfectly  double, 
blooms  in  large  clusters,  and  approaches  more  the 
Noisette  tribe  than  any  other  of  the  Bourbon  Roses. 

Marechal  De  Villars,  bright  purple,  compact  and  perfectly 
double  :  it  is  a  most  beautiful  variety. 

Paul  Joseph,  brilliant  crimson,  very  double  and  perfect, 
though  not  so  large  a  flower  as  many  others. 

Proserpine,  purplish  crimson,  perfectly  double. 

Philippar,  bright  rose,  compact  and  perfectly  double,  of 
very  luxuriant  habit,  and,  when  well  established,  a 
great,  bloomer. 

Queen  of  the  Bourbons,  beautiful  waxy  blush,  perfect  in 

form,  profuse  of  flower — exquisite. 
There  might  be  several  others  added  to  the  above,  though 

we  consider  these  the  best  and  most  distinct  in  colour  and 

character. 


ROSA  INDICA  OR  (BENGAL  OF  THE  FRENCH)  CHINESE 
EVER-BLOOMING  ROSES. 

Perhaps  no  Rose  has  been  so  universally  distributed  and 
industriously  cultivated  as  Rosa  indica,  (common  Chinese 
or  daily  Rose,)  and  Rosa  Semperflorens,  (crimson  or  san- 
guinea  Rose.)  It  has  been  a  favourite  from  the  cottage  to 
the  mansion,  and  is  truly  a  floral  pioneer.  They  will 
almost  withstand  every  vicissitude  of  treatment ;  but  will 
not  well  survive  the  winters  in  the  open  air,  north  of  this 
latitude,  and  even  here  they  require  some  simple  protec- 
tion with  straw,  mats,  litter,  or  other  dry  material  during 
winter. 

The  extensive  demand  for  roses  has  induced  many  large 
importations,  and  some  superb  additions  within  these  few 
years  ;  and  many  of  those  thought  fine  in  the  first  edition 
of  this  work,  are  now  entirely  discarded,  giving  place  to 


April. ~}  HOSA  INDICA,  &c.  69 

others  of  surpassing  beauty.  They  require  a  very  rich 
loamy  soil,  well  pulverized,  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
inches  in  depth. 

The  best  season  of  the  year  for  pruning  them  is  about 
the  first  of  this  month.  In  doing  so  it  is  not  advisable  to 
shorten  any  of  the  young  shoots,  except  in  cutting  off  the 
injured  parts,  that  being  the  wood  most  productive  of 
bloom ;  but  where  there  is  old  stinted  wood,  it  should  be 
cut  out  as  close  to  the  surface  of  the  ground  as  the  other 
parts  of  the  bush  will  permit,  with  any  other  of  the  oldest 
wood  that  is  too  crowded.  Dig  every  season  in  among 
their  roots  a  good  supply  of  well  decomposed  manure,  and 
stir  and  hoe  them  frequently  during  the  summer. 

If  I  were  to  describe  all  I  have  seen  of  the  China  or 
Bengal  Rose,  half  of  this  volume  would  not  contain  them, 
and  three-fourths  of  them  would  not  be  worth  a  sight  or 
even  a  name ;  nevertheless,  some  of  them  are  beautifully 
distinct  and  worthy  of  the  utmost  care.  Such  are 

Agrippina,  or  Cramoisi  Superieur,  brilliant  crimson,  cup 
form,  large  and  finely  double. 

Arsenie  delicate  rose,  of  large  size,  perfectly  double,  a 
strong  grower,  and  profuse  bloomer. 

Boisnard,  sulphury  white,  very  perfect  form. 

Bengal  Triomphant,  La  Sttperbe,  Grande  et  Belle.  This, 
like  many  fine  roses,  has  its  several  names,  but  the 
former  is  the  name  under  which  I  first  knew  it.  It 
is  si  strong  grower,  with  very  large  well-formed 
flowers  of  a  rich  purple  crimson,  which  are  ex- 
tremely double,  and  always  open  well. 

Beau  carmine,  dark  crimson  of  a  very  distinct  habit  and 
colour,  is  an  excellent  bloomer  and  finely  formed. 

Belle  de  Monza,  changeable  from  pink  to  crimson,  a  very 
compact  and  large  flower,  a  rapid  grower,  and  a 
general  favourite  of  long  standing. 

Belle  Isidore  is  also  a  changeable  rose  ;  it  will  open  a  light 
pink  colour,  and  before  evening  will  be  a  rich  crim- 
son, is  a  regular  and  very  double  large  rose,  of 
strong  growth  and  easy  culture,  and  when  known 
will  be  generally  cultivated. 

Gels,  or  Be ngal '  Cels,  flesh  colour,  of  the  most  perfect 
form,  extremely  double  and  always  opens  perfect, 


70  ROSA  INDICA,  &C.  [April. 

is  a  very  profuse  bloomer,  and  of  a  strong  growing 
habit ;  it  has  much  the  appearance  of  a  superb  tea 
rose. 

Comble  de  Gloir,  rich  reddish  crimson,  a  free  bloomer,  and 
possesses  considerable  fragrance. 

Duchess  of  Kent,  delicate  pink,  a  perfect  flower  of  a  glo- 
bular form,  and  free  bloom. 

Gros  Charles,  shaded  rose,  extremely  large  and  fine. 

Hortensia,  flesh  colour,  very  double,  and  an  excellent  rose. 

Indica  or  common  daily,  dark  blush  or  rose  colour — it  is 
the  prototype  of  the  family,  and  is  a  free  growing 
and  profuse  blooming  plant,  and  can  withstand  every 
variety  of  treatment.  The  flower  is  about  three 
inches  in  diameter;  and  in  our  descriptions,  where 
the  word  large  is  used,  it  signifies  that  the  flower 
is  larger  than  the  present  variety,  and  very  large 
means  still  larger,  say  four  inches  ;  extremely  large, 
between  four  and  five  inches.  We  have  even  seen 
roses  in  favourable  soils  and  cloudy  weather  six 
inches  in  diameter,  and  would  not  be  alarmed  to 
see  a  HYBRID  Rose  twenty-one  inches  in  circum- 
ference. 

Icterose,  creamy  white,  large  and  perfectly  double. 

Indica  alba,  white  daily  or  sarmeteuse  of  some,  pure  white, 
perfectly  double,  free  growing,  and  profuse  in  flow- 
ering; it  is  much  more  tender  than  the  former,  but 
does  tolerably  well  when  protected  during  winter. 
In  the  southern  states  it  is  a  great  and  growing  fa- 
vourite. Thousands  of  this  rose  have  been  grown 
and  sold  in  Philadelphia  within  these  five  years. 

Indica  minor  var,  Lawrencia  flore  pleno,  delicate  rose,  a 
perfect  rose  in  perfect  miniature. 

Jacksonia,*  hundred  leaved  daily,  or  crimson  daily,  bright 
red,  large  and  most  perfectly  double,  of  luxuriant 
growth,  and  more  prickly  (spines)  than  any  other 
rose  of  the  sort  we  have  seen. 

L'  Etna,  bright  light  crimson,  very  double,  globular,  and 
very  distinct,  is  of  a  strong  growing  habit. 

Lady  Warrender,  pure  white,  large  cup  form,  very  double 
and  a  great  bloomer. 

*  In  compliment  to  Ex-President  Jackson. 


ROSA  ODORATA  OR  TEA  ROSE.  71 

La  Caemens,  rosy  shaded  crimson,  very  perfect  form. 
Louis  Philippe,  dark  crimson,  very  compact,  globular,  and 

extremely  double. 

Madam  Hersant,  bright  rose,  very  large,  showy  and  double. 
Marjolin,  large,  dark  crimson,  a  very  strong  grower— -fine, 
Mrs.  Bosanquet,  beautiful  creamy  blush,  very  large,  per- 
fectly formed — quite  distinct. 
Prince  Eugene,  very  bright  red,  perfectly  double  cup  form, 

and  a  profuse  bloomer. 
Queen  of  France,  shaded  red,  very  large  and  perfectly 

double. 
Roi  de  Cramoisis  or  Eugene  Beauharnais,  bright  crimson, 

fine  cup  form— fragrant. 
Vesuvius,  very  dark  crimson,  perfectly  double  and  quite 

sweet  scented — a  rare  variety. 
Queen  of  Lombardy,  Heine  de  Lombardie,  brilliant  cherry 

red,  cupped,  perfectly  double,  a  strong  grower,  and 

will  be  a  great  favourite — superb. 
Semperflorens,  Crimson  Chinese  or  Sanguined,  the  type  of 

all  the  scarlet  and  crimson  varieties  of  this  division ; 

it  is  perfectly  double,  of  a  rich  crimson  colour,  and 

is  everywhere  cultivated,  and  will  not  be  easily 

displaced  from  the  window  of  the  cottage,  or  the 

veranda  of  the  palace. 
Websteria,*  rich  blush  with  pink  centre,  very  compact  and 

perfectly  double,  plant  of  free  growth  and  profuse 

in  bloom. 


ROSA  ODORATA  OR  TEA  ROSE. 

The  original  Rosa  odorata  or  tea  rose,  has  been  and  will 
be  a  lasting  favourite.  .  It  is  supposed  to  have  been  im- 
ported from  China  so  late  as  1810,  and  is  the  leading  parent 
of  all  the  fine  varieties  we  now  possess.  As  this  very 
popular  and  interesting  group  of  Roses  require  more  care 
in  their  culture  than  any  yet  described,  I  will  endeavour 
to  give  the  most  explicit  directions  I  am  able,  so  as  to  en- 
sure, at  least,  a  great  chance  of  success.  They  delight  to 
grow  in  a  rich  soil  with  a  dry  bottom,  and  in  rather  an 

*  Named  in  compliment  to  the  Hon.  D.  Webster. 


72  ROSA  ODORATA  OR  TEA  ROSE.  [April. 

elevated  situation,  and  a  southern  aspect.  Select  a  spot  of 
the  dimensions  requisite  for  a  quantity  of  plants  to  be 
planted,  and  dig  therefrom  soil  to  the  depth  of  at  least 
eighteen  inches  ;  six  inches  of  the  bottom  may  be  filled 
with  pieces  of  bricks,  stone,  or  lime — rubbish  of  any  sort ; 
on  this,  place  a  layer  of  compost,  (at  least  fifteen  inches 
thick,  to  allow  for  its  settling,)  half  turf,  or  good  garden 
mould,  and  half  well  rotted  manure,  with  about  an  eighth 
of  sand,  all  completely  mixed  together.  A  few  weeks  after 
the  bed  is  thus  prepared — say  about  the  first  of  May,  the 
roses  may  be  planted  about  two  feet  apart.  In  this  latitude, 
during  the  severity  of  winter,  they  should  be  protected  by 
a  temporary  frame:  if  covered  with  glass,  so  much  the 
better;  but  boards  will  serve  where  glass  frames  are  not  at 
hand.  With  this  treatment  they  will  never  receive  the 
least  injury  from  our  severest  winters,  and  they  will  bloom 
in  the  greatest  perfection  the  whole  season.  The  only 
pruning  they  require  is,  merely  to  remove  any  old  shoots 
to  give  room  for  those  of  younger  growth,  and  to  occasion- 
ally shorten  any  of  extra  length.  However,  where  there 
are  only  solitary  plants,  they  will  do  very  well  covered 
with  branches  of  cedar,  or  a  box  or  barrel  perforated  in 
several  places  to  allow  the  moisture  to  evaporate.  Those 
that  are  grafted  or  budded,  will  not  generally  stand  the 
winters  of  our  eastern  or  middle  states,  and  should  be  lifted 
and  put  in  a  back  shed,  or  tied  close  to  the  ground  and 
covered  with  earth.  About  the  first  of  the  month  they  can 
be  raised  up  and  pruned  of  any  dead  or  superfluous  wood, 
when  they  will  bloom  nearly  as  perfect  as  those  that  have 
received  finer  treatment.  In  the  southern  states  they  enjoy 
the  great  luxury  of  this  rose  in  its  utmost  perfection ;  there 
they  grow  in  "wild  luxuriance,"  displaying  their  varied 
beau  ies,  and  perfuming  the  air  with  their  delightful  fra- 
grance. Every  flower  garden  in  mild  latitudes,  should 
have  a  full  and  perfect  collection  of  such  "  pleasing  flow- 
ers." Among. the  many  distinct  varieties  known  to  be 
worth  culture,  are 

Antherose,  pale  pinkish  white,  large  and  compact. 
Aikinton,  flesh  colour,  very  double,  large  and  perfect. 
Barbot,  deep  pink  inclining  to  creamy  blush,  very  large. 
Boutrand,  large  double  pink. 


April. ~]  ROSA  ODORATA  OR  TEA  ROSE.  73 

Bougere,  rosy  lilac,  extremely  large,  a  strong  grower,  cup 
shaped. 

Belle  Marguerite,  Countess  of  Mbemarle,  of  the  English, 
(and  even  a  spurious  rose  of  the  latter  name  has 
been  introduced  to  our  collections) — pale  rose, 
changing  to  dark  pink  in  the  centre,  large  and  ex- 
tremely double. 

Bon  Silene,  cherry  red,  shaded  with  blush,  very  large, 
beautifully  cupped  petals,  and  perfectly  double ;  is 
of  strong  growth  and  finely  scented  ;  is  a  new  and 
very  scarce  rose  ;  even  in  France  it  is  but  in  a  few 
collections. 

Bourbon,  white  with  greenish  white  centre,  a  very  double 
rose,  free  in  growing  and  profuse  in  flowering,  and 
is  generally  known. 

Caroline,  bright  rosy  pink,  very  large,  beautifully  formed — 
pendulous  and  highly  esteemed. 

Clara  Sylvain,  pure  white,  most  perfectly  double,  a  strong 
grower,  and  abundant  in  bloom,  very  sweet  and 
highly  esteemed. 

Devoniensis,  yellowish  white,  with  pink  centre,  very  large, 
always  perfect, finely  cupped — delightfully  fragrant 
— If  I  were  confined  to  cultivate  only  twelve  roses, 
this  magnificent  variety  would  be  one  of  the  number. 

Due  de  Orleans,  bright  rose,  'large,  globular,  and  finely 
double. 

Elisa  Sauvage,  canary  yellow,  fading  to  creamy  white, 
very  large  and  double. 

Flavescens,  lutea  or  yellow  tea,  pale  straw  colour,  cupped 
petals,  very  large,  and  though  only  semi-double, 
has  not  a  rival  of  its  colour;  it  Avas  introduced  to 
England  from  China  by  Mr.  Parkes  in  1824;  is  a 
strong  grower,  but  more  tender  than  any  other  tea 
rose  of  its  habit. 

Floralie,  beautiful  blush,  bloomy  in  clusters,  very  fragrant, 
and  as  yet  quite  rare. 

Goubault,  rosy  blush  with  yellow  centre,  very  large. 

Hippolyte,  yellowish  white,  large  and  double,  a  strong 
grower  and  profuse  bloomer. 

Hymenee,  white,  with  cream  centre,  globular,  large,  and 
very  double. 

Jaune  panache,  pale  straw,  with  rose  shades. 


74  NOISETTE  ROSES. 

La  Sylphide,  rosy  buff  changing  to  creamy  white,  very 
perfect  and  always  beautiful. 

Lilicine,  lilac,  very  distinct,  compact,  and  perfectly  double. 

Lyonnais,  very  large,  pale  pink  inclining  to  deep  blush. 

Madame  Desprez,  or  Bengal  Madame  Desprez,  pure 
white,  cupped,  large  and  finely  double,  is  a  beauti- 
ful rose,  and  is  rarely  excelled  in  delicacy  of  fra- 
grance. 

Mansais,  buff,  very  large,  finely  double,  and  highly  fra- 
grant. 

Mirabile,  changeable,  white,  yellow  or  pink,  fully  double, 
and  very  distinct. 

Moire,  rose  and  blush,  beautifully  cup  formed,  very  per- 
fect, and  proves  to  be  a  fine  grower. 

Odorata,  or  common  tea  Rose,  fine  blush,  very  large  cupped 
petals,  delightfully  scented,  and  everywhere  ad- 
mired, and  is  the  foundation  of  this  sweet-scented 
family. 

Princess  Marie,  flesh  colour,  a  most  superb  rose  of  first 
rate  merit,  perfectly  double,  and  finely  scented; 
when  well  grown,  will  have  flowers  about  five 
inches  in  diameter. 

Safrano,  when  the  bud  first  opens  it  is  of  a  fine  saffron  co- 
lour, very  pretty. 

Strombio,  creamy  white,  perfectly  double,  large  and  glo- 
bular. 

Triomphe  du  Luxembourg,  yellow  flesh  or  copper  colour, 
extremely  large  and  perfectly  double  ;  is  a  rampant 
grower,  has  a  most  splendid  bud. 

Victorie  modesta,  blush,  cupped,  very  large  and  double. 


NOISETTE  ROSES. 

It  is  a  remarkable  fact,  that  the  original  of  this  famous 
group  of  Roses  originated  in  Charleston,  South  Carolina, 
with  Mr.  Noisette,  about  1815,  who  sent  it  to  his  brother, 
the  well-known  nurseryman,  at  Paris  (France).  It  was 
supposed  to  be  produced  between  the  white  musk,  cluster 
and  the  common  China  rose,  and  created  a  very  great  ex- 
citement among  the  Parisian  florists  and  amateurs ;  but 
since  its  introduction  to  France,  thousands  of  seedlings 


rfpril.']  NOISETTE  ROSES  75 

have  been  raised  from  it,  and  so  many  of  these  are  evi- 
dently hybrids,  of  the  tea-scented  and  other  roses,  that 
some  of  the  roses  called  "  Noisettes,"  have  almost  lost 
every  character  of  the  division.  They  are  generally  hardy- 
plants,  requiring  rich  soil  and  a  routine  of  treatment  simi- 
lar to  the  "  Isle  de  Bourbon  Roses."  They  will  amply 
repay  for  extra  attention  to  their  culture.  The  great  pro- 
fusion and  perpetual  succession  of  flowers  from  June  till 
November,  of  immense  clusters,  frequently  from  fifty  to 
one  hundred  in  each,  make  them  truly  ornamental  objects, 
and  are  well  calculated  for  covering  fences,  pillars,  or  trel- 
lis-work. Although  they  are  hardy,  they  will  be  benefited 
by  a  light  covering  of  mats  or  litter :  south  of  this,  nothing 
of  the  kind  is  required.  It  must  be  kept  in  mind,  that 
pillar  roses  can  scarcely  have  too  much  manure  when 
planting,  and  they  also  require  a  regular  annual  dressing 
of  some  enriching  material.  We  consider  the  annexed 
list  indispensable  to  a  flower  garden.  The  flower  of  a 
Noisette  Rose  varies  from  one  to  three  inches  in  diameter 
in  the  following  descriptions ;  we  take  two  inches  as  our 
standard : 

Alba,  white,  a  beautiful  dwarf  with  small  flowers  ;  but  in 
the  greatest  profusion,  and  the  whole  bush  is  fre- 
quently like  one  Bouquet. 

Aimee  vibert,  unique  or  Rosa  nevia,  snowy  white,  very 
compact  and  perfectly  double,  and,  if  well  treated, 
is  one  of  the  finest  white  dwarf  Noisette  Roses,  and 
is  a  profuse  autumnal  bloomer. 

Belle  de  Esquermes,  dark  rose,  very  compact  and  double ; 
a  strong  grower  and  fine  pillar  rose. 

Bengal  Lee,  Noisette  Lee,  Blush  perpetual  China,  cffiles- 
tis,  grandi/lora,  monstrosa,  and  Triomphe  des  Noi- 
settes, are  all  one  and  the  same  rose,  blush  or 
creamy  white,  very  double,  of  strong  growth,  and 
flowers  in  large  clusters ;  it  is  a  good  old  rose  and 
fortunate  in  new  names. 

Conque  de  Venus,  creamy  white,  with  darker  centre,  very 
compact  and  double ;  blooms  in  large  clusters,  and 
is  delightfully  scented,  a  regular  good  article. 

Champneyana  or  Champney's  pink  cluster,  light  pink — a 


76  NOISETTE  ROSES. 

rampant  grower,  profuse  bloomer,  and  universally 
cultivated, 

Charles  the  Tenth,  rosy  purple,  very  double,  and  in  dry 
weather  blooms  well,  but  in  moist  weather,  its  buds 
do  not  open  ;  is  an  excellent  rose  in  a  southern  lati- 
tude. 

Coeurjaune  and  Coeitr  suffre  are  alike  yellowish  white,  a 
hardy  rose  of  strong  growth,  and  profusion  of 
flowers. 

Cloth  of  Gold,  or  chromatella — deep  sulphur  yellow,  very 
large  flower,  cupped  and  fine — fragrant. 

Cora  L.  Barton,  fine  rosy  pink,  very  large  flower,  a  profuse 
bloomer,  fragrant. 

Euphrosine,  rosy  buff,  inclining  to  yellow,  very  fragrant — 
a  very  profuse  blooming  variety  of  medium  growth. 

Fellenberg,  bright  crimson,  double,  a  strong  grower,  pro- 
fuse in  bloom,  and  a  decided,  distinct,  and  excellent 
rose. 

Jaune  Desprez,  or  French  yellow  Noisette,  rosy  buff,  large 
and  perfectly  double,  flowers  in  large  clusters  ;  is  a 
strong  grower  and  delightfully  fragrant,  very  hardy 
and  well  calculated  for  a  pillar  rose. 

Julia,  rosy  lilac,  of  strong  growth,  profuse  in  bloom — very 
perfect  and  double. 

Julienne  le  Sourd,  dark  rose,  a  most  profuse  bloomer,  per- 
fectly double,  and  a  fine  dwarf. 

Lamarque,  greenish  white,  extremely  large,  profuse  in 
bloom,  perfectly  double — and  agreeably  scented — 
closely  approaches  the  tea  rose  in  its  size  and  fra- 
grance ;  it  makes  a  splendid  pillar  rose,  frequently 
growing  ten  feet  in  one  season. 

La  Biche,  pale  flesh,  large  and  double,  a  fine  pillar  rose,  and 
very  distinct  and  fragrant. 

Lady  Byron,  pink,  very  compact,  and  perfectly  double,  and 
is  a  good  pillar  rose. 

Lutea  or  Smithii,  pale  yellow,  large  double  flowrers,  but 
does'not  open  well  in  moist  weather ;  it  is  a  superb 
article  when  perfect,  and  is  quite  a  dwarf,  having 
very  little  of  the  Noisette  character,  but  delightfully 
scented. 

Luxembourg,  fine  rosy  purple,  very  perfect,  a  free  grower 
and  fragrant. 


MUSK-SCENTED  ROSES,  &C.  77 

OrlofF,  bright  pink,  large  and  showy,  though  not  very  dou- 
ble—a profuse  bloomer  when  well  established — is  a 
very  strong  grower,  and  excellent  for  covering  ar- 
bours or  trellises. 

Pompone,  rosy  pink,  a  very  strong  grower,  with  dense 
foliage,  sweet  scented. 

Solfatare,  sulphur  yellow,  large  and  perfectly  double,  a 
strong  grower,  very  fragrant,  when  well  established 
blooming  profusely. 

Superb,  delicate  pink,  an  old  rose,  perfectly  double,  blooms 
in  large  clusters;  is  of  strong  habit,  and  flowers 
profusely.  This,  with  Noisette  Lee,  are  our  two 
best  old  Noisette  Roses. 


MUSK-SCENTED  ROSES,  (ROSA  MOSCHATA.) 

The  white  musk-scented  cluster  rose  is  one  of  the  oldest 
inhabitants  of  the  rose  garden,  and  is  known  all  over  the 
earth,  where  the  rose  has  been  cultivated,  or  its  name  been 
heard.  It  is  supposed  that  it  is  the  famed  rose  of  the  Per- 
sian poets.  Although  there  are  several  varieties  under 
this  head,  very  few  of  them,  indeed,  have  that  peculiar 
fragrance  which  the  genuine  old  species  possesses.  They 
require  similar  treatment  to  the  Bourbon  and  Noisette 
Roses,  and,  in  fact,  fanciers  have  been,  if  possible,  too 
minute,  to  separate  this  group  from  the  Noisette  Roses, 
merely  because  they  are,  in  some  degree,  musk-scented. 

Old  musk  cluster,  yellowish  white,  expanded  and  semi- 
double,  blooms  in  immense  clusters  and  finely 
scented. 

Frazerii,  Blush  musk  and  Pink  musk,  all  the  same  rose, 
blush  pink,  semi-double,  much  puffed  in  Europe, 
being  the  only  one  of  colour  in  the  group. 

Herbemonte,  pure  white,  very  large  flower  in  fine  clusters. 

Princesse  de  Nassau,  creamy  white,  perfectly  double,  very 
fragrant,  and  blooms  in  large  clusters. 

Ranunculus,  musk  cluster,  pure  white,  very  double ;  flow- 
ers in  very  large  clusters. 

Susanna,  small  yellowish  white,  very  fragrant. 


78  CLIMBING  ROSES,  &C.  {April. 


CLIMBING  ROSES  THAT  BLOOM  ONLY  ONCE  IN  THE 
SEASON. 

Under  this  head  we  will  have  to  place  several  roses  from 
very  different  countries,  but  all  agreeing  in  habit  and 
flowering  disposition.  Our  readers  will  now  be  fully  im- 
pressed with  the  knowledge  that  all  roses  of  luxuriant 
growth  require  copious  nourishment.  Such  is  the  case 
with  many  of  those  we  are  now  about  to  describe ;  but 
others  of  them  will  grow  and  bloom  most  beautifully  perfect 
even  on  the  poorest  of  soil,  and  are  very  capable  of  cover- 
ing rock-work,  a  sterile  bank,  or  naked  wall,  or  any  disa- 
greeable object,  where  it  is  not  convenient  to  excavate  for 
the  purpose  of  introducing  nutritious  soils ;  and  several  of 
them  are  of  such  a  hardy  nature,  that  they  will  withstand 
the  utmost  severity  of  our  northern  states  ;  others  are  more 
delicate,  and  can  only  bear  the  mild  winters  of  a  southern 
climate,  where  they  richly  display  both  flowers  and  foliage, 
and  even  retain  their  foliage  during  winter,  and  are  ever- 
greens for  screening  disagreeable  objects  or  covering  ar- 
bours. The  best  of  the  united  groups  are 

(r)  *  Ayrshire  tea  scented,  or  Rosa  Ruga,  delicate  blush, 
flowers  very  compact  and  perfectly  double  ;  it  is  a 
free  grower  and  an  excellent  pillar  rose,  with  a  de- 
lightful fragrance.  There  are  several  others  of  the 
Ayrshire  Rose,  under  very  tempting  names,  such 
as  Double  Crimson,  Mottled,  Eclipse,  Ayrshire 
Queen,  Elegans,  &c.  These  may  do  for  those  who 
wish  a  multiplicity  of  names ;  but  will  not  take  with 
our  floral  public,  who  wish  every  plant  to  have  some 
merit  as  well  as  a  name  to  recommend  it. 

Boursalt,  pink  or  reddish  pink,  semi-double,  profuse  flower- 
ing, and  is  our  earliest  rose — is  a  free  grower,  and 
of  the  most  hardy  nature ;  in  fact,  all  the  Boursalts 
are  .equally  hardy,  and  withstand  the  severest  cold. 

Boursalt,  white,  Rose  de  Lisle,  Boursalt  Florida,  Calypso, 
Pompone  Florida,  and  Bengal  Florida,  &c.,  for  it 

*  Those  marked  thus  (r)  will  do  admirably  for  rock-work. 


CLIMBING  ROSES,  &C.  7Q 

is  known  by  all  these  names,  and  I  have  imported 
it  four  times,  under  different  names  ;  it  is  a  blush 
white,  and  frequently  exceedingly  large  and  hand- 
some, and  is  a  pillar  rose  ;  its  very  double  delicate 
flowers  have  a  fine  effect. 

Boursalt  elegans,  Purple  Boursalt,  Purple  Noisette,  &c., 
flowers  of  a  vivid  purple  crimson,  with  an  occa- 
sional stripe  of  white,  nearly  double,  and  an  early 
and  profuse  bloomer ;  is  an  excellent  rose  for  an 
arbour. 

Boursalt  Inermis,  very  large,  bright  pink,  a  little  fragrant, 
grows  and  blooms  freely. 

Banksia  alba,  white,  with  pink  centre,  very  small,  but  per- 
fectly double,  has  an  agreeable  violet  perfume,  and 
is  a  profuse  bloomer,  but  is  entirely  too  delicate  to 
withstand  our  winters.  This  and  the  following  are 
natives  of  China : 

Banksia  lutea,  yellow  inclining  to  buff,  in  every  other  cha- 
racter similar  to  the  former.  They  are  elegant 
evergreens  in  the  gardens  of  our  southern  states, 
and  are  very  highly  esteemed  ;  frequently  known 
under  the  name  of  White  Evergreen  Multiflora, 
and  Yellow  Evergreen  Multiflora. 

Bourbon,  bright  rosy  red,  nearly  double,  and  flowers  pro- 
fusely, and  is  a  good  pillar  rose ;  and  although  the 
parent  of  the  celebrated  L'Isle  de  Bourbon  Roses, 
it  only  blooms  in  May  or  June. 

Bengalensis  scandens,  or  Reuse  de  blanc,  rose  white,  large 
double  flower,  and  of  free  growth. 

(r)  Felicite  de  pe?petua.rjl?oisettejtorabunda,  Melard  sem- 
pervirens,  Noisette  compacta,  Mademoiselle  Eu- 
phrasie,  and  perhaps  many  other  high-sounding 
names  ;  it  is  a  beautiful  cream  white,  with  perfect 
shaped  flowers,  and  makes  a  lovely  rock-work  or 
pillar  rose;  but  is  rather  delicate  for  our  severe 
winters. 

Grevlllia,  or  seven  sisters,  is  a  very  curious  rose,  flowered 
the  first  time  with  us  in  June,  1830.  It  is  of  the 
Multiflora  variety,  and  is  a  native  of  China ;  growth 
free  and  luxuriant ;  leaves  large  and  deeply  nerved  ; 
flowers  in  large  clusters,  almost  every  eye  of  the 
wood  of  last  year  producing  one  cluster,  having  on 


80  CLIMBING  ROSES,  &C. 

it  from  eight  to  twenty  roses,  according  to  the  state 
of  the  plant,  each  rose  expanding  differently  in 
colour  or  shade.  Many  suppose  that  they  expand 
all  of  the  same  colour,  and  change  afterward.  This 
is  not  the  case.  We  have  seen  them  white,  pink, 
red,  purple,  and  various  other  shades  when  the 
bloom  expanded ;  and  on  two  clusters  we  have  ob- 
served twenty-two  distinct  shades  of  colour.  In 
fact,  it  is  a  complete  nondescript,  having  roses 
single,  semi-double,  and  double,  large  and  small, 
and  every  colour  hetween  white  and  purple,  form- 
ing, in  every  garden  where  it  is  planted,  a  wonder 
of  the  vegetable  world. 

(r)  Lepoldine  de  Orleans,  beautiful  hlush,  very  compact 
and  profuse  in  bloom,  and  is  a  very  celebrated  rose. 

Multiflora,  beautiful  pink,  very  compact  and  double;  it  is 
rather  tender  for  this  latitude.  Celebrated  as  being 
the  first  climbing  rose  that  was  planted  in  or  about 
Philadelphia,  and  was  so  much  admired,  that 
twenty  dollars  were  frequently  given  for  a  single 
plant. 

Multiflora  alba,  similar  to  the  former,  but  lighter  in  colour, 
though  not  a  pure  white. 

Graulhie,  pure  white,  cup  form  in  large  clusters,  very 
double,  a  strong  grower  and  free  bloomer. 

Multiflora  Laure  de  Voust,  changeable  pale  blush,  pink  or 
white,  very  compact,  of  the  most  perfect  form,  and 
a  profuse  bloomer,  of  rampant  growth,  and  more 
hardy  than  the  two  preceding  ;  it  is  one  of  the  most 
.  beautiful  and  elegant  of  climbing  roses,  with  rather 
large  flowers  and  luxuriant  foliage. 

(r)  Princess  Maria  and  Princess  Louise  are  unquestionably 
the  same,  a  beautiful  pale  rose  of  exquisite  form  and 
beautifully  cupped  petals. 

Prairie  Rose,  a  few  elegant  sorts  have  been  grown  from  this 
single  flowered  native  rose ;  all  are  of  rapid  growth 
and  partaking  of  the  parent  in  blooming  later  than 
roses  generally  that  flower  only  once  in  the  season ; 
they  are  admirably  adapted  for  covering  arbours, 
rock-work,  or  out-buildings  of  any  kind,  being  of 
the  most  hardy  nature  and  standing  the  severest  of 
our  winters  even  in  the  most  northern  states. 


•3pril.~]  ROSA  MICROPHYLLA,  &C.  81 

Beauty  of  Prairies,  or  Queen  of  Prairies,  dark  rose,  cup 
form,  very  large,  and  frequently  striped  with  white ; 
it  is  highly  esteemed  and  a  strong  grower. 

Prairie  Baltimore  Belle,  nearly  white,  very  perfect  form, 
quite  double,  blooming  in  clusters. 

Prairie  Superba,  blush,  a  very  profuse  bloomer  in  rich 
clusters,  perfectly  double. 

Prairie  Purpurea,  rosy  purple,  imbricated,  very  double, 
said  to  bloom  again  in  the  autumn. 

Russelliana,  Cottage  Rose,  and  Scarlet  Grevlttia:  this  is 
a  distinct  article  in  growth  from  any  other  of  this 
group ;  it  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  does  not  climb  so 
freely  ;  still  it  makes  a  lovely  pillar  rose  with  large 
clusters  of  bright  crimson  shaded  flowers. 

(r)  Sempervirens  pleno  alba,  pure  white,  flowers  perfectly 
double  and  profuse;  the  strong  shoots  of  last  year 
will  produce  a  large  cluster  of  flowers  almost  from 
every  eye ;  this  Rose  is  termed  evergreen  in  Eu- 
rope, but  with  us  is  perfectly  deciduous ;  although 
in  our  southern  states  it  retains  its  foliage  during 
winter. 

Triomphe  de  BoUwiller,  is  certainly  a  most  superb  blush 
white  rose,  globular  and  double,  and  blooms  in  fine 
clusters,  having  an  agreeable  and  rather  delightful 
fragrance,  and  is  a  magnificent  pillar  plant. 


ROSA  MICROPHYLLA,  (OR  SMALL-LEAVED  ROSE.) 

This  pretty  little  Rose  was  originally  from  China,  and 
since  it  has  been  introduced,  several  additions  have  been 
made  by  cultivation ;  although  we  have  not  yet  seen  any 
to  excel  the  original  Rosa  microphylla.  They  delight  in 
light  rich  dry  soils,  and  form  very  fine  bushes  for  grass 
plats  or  small  lawns,  and  generally  flower  the  whole  sum- 
mer, producing  their  blooms  from  short  young  shoots  pro- 
duced from  the  wood  of  two  or  three  years'  growth.  The 
plants  should  all  have  a  little  protection  the  first  winter 
after  planting,  and  in  pruning  the  shoots  should  only  be 
thinned  out,  or  any  dead  piece  cut  off:  we  have  had  seve- 
ral roses  under  very  enticing  names  added  to  this  group, 
such  as  striped  microphylla,  crimson  microphylla,  scarlet 


82  ROSA  MICROPHYLLA,  &C.  \_rfpril. 

microphylla,  all  deceptive ;  and  even  the  first  plant  that 
came  out  as  double  white,  proved  to  be  entirely  single  ;  but 
there  is  now  a  genuine  double  white,  though  not  properly 
a  microphylla.  The  following  few  are  all  we  have  seen 
worth  cultivating : 

Microphylla.  This  rose  is  unique  in  every  character.  The 
foliage  is  very  small  and  neat,  and  the  calyx  thick 
and  bristly.  The  flowers  are  produced  at  the 
extremity  of  the  young  shoots  in  twos  or  threes, 
according  to  the  strength  of  the  plant;  they  are 
large  and  double  ;  the  exterior  petals  large  and  full; 
those  of  the  interior  are  very  short  and  thick-set; 
the  colour  in  the  centre  is  dark,  shading  lighter 
toward  the  exterior ;  the  spines  are  in  pairs  on  each 
side  of  the  compound  leaves.  It  is  perfectly  hardy, 
and  greatly  esteemed,  and  not  so  subject  to  be 
attacked  by  insects  as  other  roses. 

Microphylla  rubra,  dark  red,  having  every  character  of  the 
preceding.  They  are  frequently  called  "  The  Burr 
Rose,"  from  the  appearance  of  the  bud. 

Microphylla  violace,  reddish  violet;  in  habit  very  similar 
to  the  former,  but  much  darker  in  colour,  and  is  a 
true  microphylla. 

Maria  Leonida,  white,  centre  tinged  with  pink;  is  very 
sweet  scented — blooms  all  the  season— but  has  more 
the  habit  of  a  Macartney  than  Microphylla  Rose. 

Microphylla  odorata  alba,  yellowish  white,  perfectly  double, 
and  finely  scented ;  is  a  strong  grower  and  a  good 
deal  of  the  Macartney  Rose  habit. 

We, have  now  concluded  our  few  descriptions  of  the 
beautiful  family  of  Roses ;  informing  our  readers,  if  they 
should  think  it  brief,  we  can  assure  them  it  is  candid,  and, 
as  far  as  we  know,  in  every  respect  impartial.  No  doubt 
we  could  have  given  many  beautiful  details  of  "things"  we 
never  saw  and  probably  never  will ;  and  we  also  promise 
that  a  few  of  our  descriptions  will,  in  some  situations  and 
peculiar  seasons,  "come  short,"  or  perhaps  "  overshoot  the 
mark ;"  for  it  is  well  known  to  the  cultivator,  that  double 
roses  will  occasionally  come  single,  and  red  roses  become 
blush,  and  blush  roses  frequently  bloom  entirely  white,  and 


JlpriL~]  CLIMBING  PLANTS.  83 

vice  versa.  We  have  also  seen  a  moss  bush  have  roses 
and  shoots  entirely  without  their  "mossy  coat."  We  have 
also  avoided  a  few  of  high  standing  in  character ;  but  not 
being  entirely  known  to  us  in  their  intrinsic  worth,  a  de- 
scription of  them  would  have  been  too  hazardous,  knowing 
that  much  exaggeration  exists. 

The  Roses  and  all  their  allies,  described  in  this  month, 
should  be  planted  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  the  month ; 
and  we  would  again  enforce  upon  our  rose  amateurs  the 
actual  necessity  of  giving  soil  of  enriching  qualities  to  all 
their  roses;  they  will  be  amply  repaid  for  their  trouble: 
nearly  all  the  failures  of  roses  giving  a  grateful  and  even 
universal  satisfaction,  can  be  traced  to  bad  and  shallow  soils, 
more  especially  in  our  city  gardens,  where  cheapness  of 
workmanship  is  the  best  recommendation ;  consequently, 
there  are  a  few  inches  of  tolerable-looking  clay  thrown  over 
brick-bats  and  lime  rubbish,  and,  when  finished,  is  con- 
sidered a  "  fine  job,"  because  it  is  done  cheap  ;  the  result 
is,  that  often  the  very  next  season  the  whole  has  to  be  gone 
over  and  done  in  a  permanent  manner;  not  less  than  six- 
teen or  eighteen  inches  of  the  best  dark  loam  should  be  in 
every  garden,  and  that  well  incorporated  with  manure  at 
least  one  year  old,  and  also  have  a  portion  of  sand  or  fine 
rotten  rock  thoroughly  mixed  with  it ;  and  then,  and  not  till 
then,  the  proprietor  may  expect  satisfaction. 


CLIMBING  PLANTS. 

As  shade  is  much  required  in  this  country,  and  plants 
suitable  for  covering  arbours,  &c.,  eagerly  sought  for,  we 
will  make  a  few  remarks  on  those  which  are  preferred  for 
their  beauty,  growth,  hardiness,  &c. 

Aristolochia  sipho  Birthwort  or  Dutchman's  pipe,is  a  very 
curious  blooming  plant,  with  extraordinary  large 
folioge,  and  makes  an  excellent  arbour  twiner, 
affording  a  dense  and  cooling  shade. 

Clematis  vilicella  pulchella,  or  double  virgin's  bower,  is  an 
esteemed  climbing  plant,  of  rapid  growth,  with  large 
•flowers  in  great  profusion  from  June  to  September. 
There  are  several  varieties  of  the  above,  two  of 


84  CLIMBING  PLANTS.  [April. 

them  single,  and  it  is  said  that  there  is  likewise  a 
double  red. 

Clematis  coeriilea,  C.  cn>rulea  grandiflora,  and  C.  azurca 
grandiflora.  This  beautiful  and  entirely  new 
climber  is  already  distinguished  by  three  distinct 
names,  and  has  been  several  times  figured,  each 
time  with  more  or  less  flattery.  I  must  confess  the 
first  representation  I  saw  of  it  truly  enchanted  me ; 
the  brilliancy  of  its  blue  surpassing  every  flower  I 
had  ever  beheld  ;  and  named  C.  azurca  grandiflora. 
The  flowers  are  frequently  four  or  five  inches  in 
diameter,  of  a  fine,  bluish  violet  colour,  blooming 
freely  and  perfectly  hardy,  the  most  magnificent  of 
the  family. 

Clematis  Sieb6ldii,OT  bicolor.  This  is  another  of  Dr.  Van 
Siebold's  Japan  additions,  and  is  nearly  related  to 
C.  florida.  The  leaves  and  branches,  however, 
are  rather  more  downy,  and  the  petals  suffused 
with  violet  spots ;  the  anthers  are  also  of  a  violet 
colour,  which  has  given  it  the  name  of  bicolor;  it 
is  of  graceful  habit,  and  the  size  and  beauty  of  its 
blossoms  render  it  an  attractive  inhabitant  of  the 
flower  garden. 

C.  faimmttla,  sweet-scented  virgin's  bower,  is  of  very  rapid 
growth.  Established  plants  will  grow  from  twenty 
to  forty  feet  in  one  season,  producing  at  the  axils 
of  the  young  shoots,  large  panicles  of  small  white 
flowers  of  exquisite  fragrance ;  the  leaves  are  com- 
pound pinnate ;  in  bloom  from  July  to  November, 
but  in  August,  September  and  October,  the  flowers 
are  in  great  profusion,  perfuming  the  whole  gar- 
den. This  is  one  of  the  best  climbing  hardy 
plants,  and  ought  to  have  a  situation  in  every 
garden. 

C.  Virginiana  is  of  rapid  growth,  and  well  adapted  for 
arbours ;  flowers  small  white  in  axillary  panicles, 
dioecious,  leaves  ternate,  segments  cordate,  acute, 
coarsely  toothed  and  lobed,  in  bloom  from  June  to 
August.  A  native,  and  a  little  fragrant. 

C.  crispa,  or  Bell  Clematis,  is  a  native  plant  of  free  growth 
— flowers  of  a  pink  colour,  in  clusters,  bell-shaped, 
the  points  of  the  petals  folding  backwards — a  little 


CLIMBING  PLANTS.  85 

grant.  There  is  also  a  variety  having  purple 
flowers. 

C.  florida  plena  is  a  fine  free  flowering  plant;  though 
generally  considered  a  shrub,  is  more  herbaceous 
than  shrubby ;  the  flowers  are  large  double  white ; 
in  growth  will  not  exceed  ten  feet  in  one  season. 

Glycine  frutescens,  a  beautiful  native  climbing  shrub, 
known  in  our  gardens  under  that  name,  but  is  pro- 
perly Wisteria  frutescens.  It  has  large  pendulous 
branches  of  blue  leguminose  (pea-like)  flowers, 
blooming  from  May  to  August;  pinnated  leaves 
with  nine  ovate  downy  leaflets ;  grows  freely. 

Glycine  chinensis  is  given  to  Wisteria,  and  is  the  finest 
climbing  shrub  of  the  phaseolius  tribe.  The  flow- 
ers are  light  blue,  in  long  nodding  many-flowered 
racemose  spikes,  blooming  from  May  to  August, 
profusely ;  leaves  pinnated,  with  eleven  ovate  lance- 
olate silky  leaflets,  and  is  of  a  very  rapid  growth. 
It  is  perfectly  hardy,  withstanding  the  severity  of 
our  winters  without  protection. 

Bignonia  crucigera  is  an  evergreen  which  is  very  desira- 
ble in  many  situations,  being  likewise  of  luxuriant 
growth.  It  will  cover  in  a  few  years  an  area  of 
fifty  feet ;  flowers  of  an  orange  scarlet  colour,  bloom- 
ing from  May  to  August. 

B.  grandiflora,  now  given  to  Tecoma,  has  large  orange- 
coloured  flowers,  blooming  from  June  to  August, 
and  grows  very  fast.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  a 
most  magnificent  plant. 

B.  rddicans  is  likewise  given  to  Tecoma,  and  is  a  native 
plant.  When  in  flower  it  is  highly  ornamental, 
but  it  requires  great  attention  to  keep  it  in  regular 
order,  being  of  a  strong  rough  nature ;  in  bloom 
from  June  to  August. 

Periplaca  graeca,  silk  vine,  is  a  climber  of  extraordinary 
growth.  Well  established  plants  grow  thirty  or 
forty  feet  in  one  season ;  flowers  in  clusters  from 
May  to  July,  of  a  brownish-yellow  colour,  and  hairy- 
inside  ;  leaves  smooth,  ovate,  lanceolate,  wood  slen- 
der, twining  and  elastic. 

ffedera  Helix,  Irish  Ivy,  is  a  valuable  evergreen  for  cover- 
ing naked  walls,  or  any  other  unsightly  object.  The 
8 


86  CLIMBING  PLANTS.  [April. 

foliage  is  of  a  lively  green,  leaves  from  three  to  five 
angled.  There  are  several  varieties  of  it,  all  valua- 
ble for  growing  in  confined  shady  situations  where 
no  other  plant  will  thrive. 

Ampelopsis  hederacea.  This  plant  is  commonly  employed 
for  covering  walls,  for  which  the  rapidity  of  its 
growth  and  the  largeness  of  the  leaves  render  it 
extremely  appropriate.  There  are  several  species 
of  the  genus,  all  resembling  the  Fine  in  habit  and 
in  flower. 

Jasminum  officindle,  garden  Jasmine.  This  delightful 
climbing  shrub  has  been  in  common  use  all  over 
Europe  for  covering  arbours  from  time  immemorial; 
its  white,  delicate,  and  lovely  fragrant  flowers  ren- 
der it  a  great  acquisition :  unfortunately,  with  us, 
it  is  rather  delicate  for  our  winters,  unless  well  pro- 
tected by  a  south  wall  or  other  building,  and  even 
then,  when  in  a  young  state,  must  be  protected: 
but,  in  the  south,  this  plant  and  also  the  yellow 
Jasminum  revolulum  grow  luxuriantly  and  bloom 
profusely,  and  even  J.  grandiflorum  is  a  hardy 
shrub  in  South  Carolina  and  Georgia. 

Lonicera,  or  more  properly  Caprifolium.  The  Honey- 
suckle. This  genus  of  flowering  odoriferous  climb- 
ing shrubs  are  principally  natives  of  this  country : 
they  are  all  equally  beautiful ;  but  where  there  is 
not  space  in  our  city  gardens  to  cultivate  the  whole 
family,  it  is  indispensable  to  have  C.flexvosum,  the 
Chinese  sweet  scented  or  evergreen ;  it  blooms  in 
May  and  September,  and  is  a  very  rapid  grower ; 
C.  Belgica  is  also  a  charming  species ;  it  blooms  the 
whole  summer,  and  is  very  odorous.  Our  native 
C.  sempervirens,  or  Coral  Honeysuckle,  is  not  easily 
surpassed ;  its  profuse  and  brilliant  scarlet  flowers 
render  it  the  most  attractive  object  in  all  our  coun- 
try gardens.  C.  Japonicum  is  also  an  excellent 
Chinese  species,  with  delicate  orange-coloured 
flowers  of  agreeable  sweetness ;  but  will  not  bear 
our  winters  north  of  the  southern  part  of  Virginia. 

Passiflora,  or  Passion  vine.  There  are  several  hardy  spe- 
cies for  this  latitude ;  but  the  only  very  beautiful 
one  is  P.  incarndta,  which,  although  it  dies  to  the 


OF  PLANTING  EVERGRKKN  SHRUBS.  87 

ground  every  winter,  yet  will,  during  the  summer, 
put  forth  shoots  from  twenty  to  forty  feet  long,  all 
covered  with  a  profusion  of  beautiful  purple  flow- 


There  are  several  other  climbing  plants,  both  curious 
and  ornamental ;  but  our  limits  will  not  admit  of  farther 
detail. 


DECIDUOUS  SHRUBS. 

Finish  planting  all  deciduous  shrubs  in  the  early  part  of 
the  month.  These  plants  are  generally  delayed  too  long  ; 
the  leaves  in  many  instances  are  beginning  to  expand, 
thereby  giving  a  check  to  the  ascending  sap,  which  we  may 
safely  assert  causes  the  death  of  one-third  of  the  plants, 
when  perhaps  the  operator  or  some  individual  more  dis- 
tantly concerned  is  blamed. 

These  shrubs,  if  properly  removed  and  planted  at  the 
exact  starting  of  vegetation,  pressing  the  earth  close  to 
their  roots  when  planting,  (previously  taking  care  that  the 
small  fibres  have  not  become  dry,  by  exposure,)  there  will 
not  one  out  of  fifty  fail  by  these  simple  attentions.  Those 
that  are  late  planted  should  have  frequent  waterings,  and, 
if  large,  firmly  supported,  that  the  wind  may  have  no  effect 
in  disturbing  the  young  and  tender  fibrous  roots. 


OF  PLANTING  EVERGREEN  SHRUBS. 

Now  is  the  season  to  plant-all  kinds  of  evergreen  trees 
and  shrubs.  In  most  seasons,  the  middle  of  the  month  is 
the  most  proper  time,  the  weather  then  being  mild  and 
moist;  or  if  a  late  season,  defer  it  to  the  end  of  the  month. 
When  planted  earlier,  they  will  remain  dormant  until  this 
time,  and  their  tender  fibrous  roots  in  that  case  frequently 
perish  from  their  liability  to  injury  from  frost  or  frosty 
winds,  being  more  susceptible  of  such  injury  than  fibres 
of  deciduous  plants.  They  now  begin  to  vegetate,  which 
is  the  grand  criterion  for  transplanting  any  plant.  The 
buds  begin  to  swell,  the  roots  to  push,  and  if  they  can  be 


88  CARE  OF  CHOICE  BULBS.  \_rfpril. 

quickly  lifted  and  replanted,  they  will  hardly  receive  a 
check.  At  all  events,  care  must  be  taken  that  they  are  not 
long  out  of  the  ground  and  exposed  to  the  air,  which 
greatly  assists  the  success  in  planting.  It  may  be  observed 
that  evergreens  in  general  succeed  the  better  the  smaller 
they  are,  although  we  have  seen  plants,  trees  and  ever- 
greens successfully  lifted  upward  of  thirteen  feet  high, 
and  fifteen  in  diameter,  and  carried  several  miles.*  By  the 
second  year  there  was  no  appearance  that  such  operation 
had  taken  place.  In  preparing  a  hole  for  the  reception  of 
these  plants,  make  it  larger  than  the  roots,  breaking  the 
bottom  thereof  fine,  and  putting  in  some  fresh  soil.  Place 
the  plant  upright  in  the  centre,  putting  in  the  earth  and 
breaking  it  fine,  and  give  the  plant  a  few  gentle  shakes. 
When  the  roots  are  more  than  half  covered,  put  in  a  pot 
or  pailful  of  water,  allowing  it  to  subside,  then  cover  all  the 
roots,  give  a  second  or  third  pailful,  and  when  subsided, 
the  earth  will  be  close  to  all  the  roots.  Cover  with  more 
earth,  pressing  all  firm  with  the  foot.  Put  more  soil  loosely 
on,  which  will  give  it  a  finished  appearance,  and  prevent 
it  from  becoming  dry,  and  not  require  mulching,  which  has 
an  unsightly  appearance.  All  that  the  wind  will  have 
any  hurtful  effect  upon  must  be  firmly  supported,  especially 
large  plants.  If  the  weather  sets  in  dry  and  hot,  they 
should  be  watered  as  often  as  necessity  shall  direct. 

Those  that  are  established,  it  will  be  necessary  to  go 
over  them  (if  not  already  done)  to  cut  off"  all  wood  killed 
in  winter,  and  also  to  thin  them  if  too  thick  and  crowded. 

When  the  above  is  done,  let  every  part  of  the  shrub- 
bery be  dressed  off  as  directed  in  March.  Shrubs  of  all 
kinds  will  now  begin  to  look  gay  and  lively,  which  may 
be  very  much  heightened  or  depreciated,  according  to  the 
state  in  which  the  ground  and  contiguous  walks  are  kept. 
Always  keep  in  view  that  weeds  are  no  objects  of  beauty. 


CARE  OF  CHOICE  BULBS. 

Hyacinths  of  the  earliest  sorts  will  begin  to  expand  and 
show  their  colours ;  of  which  we  can  boast  of  a  few  as  fine 

*  See  Mr.  M'Nab's  rich  pamphlet  treatise  on  removing  ever- 
greens, dec. 


April."]  CARE  OF  CHOICK  BULBS.  89 

sorts  in  the  vicinity  of  Philadelphia,  as  in  any  garden  of 
Europe  ;  but  even  these  very  superior  sorts,  when  in  bloom, 
are  too  frequently  neglected,  being  allowed  to  stand  without 
rods,  stakes,  or  any  means  of  support,  likewise  equally  ex- 
posed to  drenching  rains  and  scorching  suns ;  and  the  finest 
collections  may  be  seen  after  heavy  rains  prostrate  on  the 
ground,  whereas  a  few  hours'  trouble  would  give  them  the 
requisite  support,  thereby  preserving  their  beauty  much 
longer,  and  giving  more  gratification.  As  soon  as  the 
stems  advance  to  any  height,  they  should  be  supported  by 
wires,  rods,  &c.,  and  tied  slightly  thereto  with  threads  of 
matting,  or  any  other  substitute ;  repeat  the  tying  as  they 
advance,  avoid  tying  among  the  florets,  because  they  grow 
by  extension,  and  are  liable  to  be  broken  off  by  so  doing. 
The  sun  deteriorates  the  colours  very  much,  especially  the 
red,  blue,  and  yellow  sorts;  whereas,  if  they  were  simply 
protected  from  the  sun  by  an  awning  of  thin  canvas,  the 
colours  would  be  preserved  and  the  beauty  protracted.  If 
there  are  stakes  drove  into  the  ground  on  each  side  of  the 
beds,  about  three  feet  high,  with  others  in  the  centre  about 
eight  feet,  having  laths  or  hoops  from  the  side  to  the  centre, 
formed  similar  to  the  roof  of  a  house,  so  that  people  may 
walk  or  sit  under  it,  the  canvas  or  awning  being  thin  to 
admit  of  the  light  freely,  the  effect  in  the  time  of  sunshine, 
from  the  brilliancy  of  the  colours,  is  peculiarly  gratifying. 
Where  an  awning  is  thus  erected,  it  requires  to  be  kept  on 
only  from  nine  to  three  o'clock  in  sunshine  days,  and  during 
nights  or  time  of  rain,  allowing  the  awning  on  the  most 
northern  side  tocorne  close  to  the  ground,  when  necessary, 
to  shelter  them  from  cold  cutting  winds. 

The  properties  of  a  good  Hyacinth  arc,  namely — the 
stem  strong  and  erect,  the  florets  or  bells  occupying  one- 
half  of  the  stem,  each  floret  suspended  bv  a  short  strong 
footstalk,  longest  at  the  bottom ;  the  uppermost  floret  quite 
erect,  so  that  the  whole  may  form  a  pyramid.  Each  floret 
well  filled  with  petals  rising  toward  the  centre,  that  it  may 
appear  to  the  eye  a  little  convex.  Regarding  colour,  fancy 
does  not  agree,  and  the  most  scrupulous  cultivators  differ 
materially.  However,  the  more  pure  and  bright  the  finer, 
or  a  white  with  a  pink  centre,  or  the  centre  of  the  petals 
with  a  paler  or  deeper  colour  appearing  striped,  which  is 
considered  to  have  a  good  effect. 
8* 


90  ANEMONES  AND  RANUNCULUS.  [April. 

Tulips  in  every  respect  should  have  the  same  care  and 
protection,  never  neglecting  to  have  the  beds  with  a  smooth 
clean  surface,  and  the  stems  neatly  tied  up,  although  they 
are  not  in  so  much  danger  as  Hyacinths. 

The  characters  of  a  good  Tulip  are — the  stem  strong, 
elastic,  and  erect,  about  two  feet  high,  the  flower  large  and 
composed  of  six  petals,  proceeding  a  little  horizontally  at 
first,  and  then  turning  upward,  forming  a  flat-bottomed  cup, 
rather  widest  at  the  top ;  the  three  exterior  petals  should  be 
larger  than  the  three  interior  ones,  and  broader  at  their 
base ;  the  edges  of  the  petals  entire,  free  from  notch  or  rug- 
gedness;  the  top  of  each  well  rounded;  the  colour  of  the 
flower  at  the  bottom  of  the  cup  ought  to  be  pure,  white,  or 
yellow,  and  the  rich-coloured  stripes,  which  are  the  prin- 
cipal ornament,  should  be  pure,  bold,  regular,  and  distinct 
on  the  margin,  and  terminate  in  fine  points  elegantly  pen- 
ciled. The  centre  of  each  petal  should  have  one  bold 
stripe,  or  blotch,  of  rich  colouring.  The  ground  colours 
that  are  most  esteemed  are  white,  the  purer  the  finer ;  or, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  dark  grounds,  and  of  course  the 
darker  the  better;  but  these  vary  in  estimation  according 
to  the  prevailing  taste  of  amateurs. 


ANEMONES  AND  RANUNCULUS. 

Moist  weather  and  frequent  showers  are  highly  essential 
to  the  perfecting  of  these  flowers,  and  if  these  should  fail 
at  this  season  of  the  year,  artificial  means  must  be  used  to 
supply  the  deficiency.  Take  a  watering-pot  without  the 
rose,  and  run  the  water  (river  or  rain  water  is  best)  gently 
between  the  rows,  taking  care  not  to  make  holes  in  the 
ground.  When  they  have  got  a  good  watering  at  root, 
take  the  syringe  and  give  them  a  gentle  sprinkling  in  fine 
evenings,  observing  not  to  use  force  for  fear  of  breaking 
the  flower  stems.  In  dry  weather  the  result  of  a  deficiency 
of  water  would  be,  that  the  stems  and  flowers  of  the  strong- 
est roots  will  be  weak  and  make  no  progress,  and  many  of 
them  will  not  bloom ;  the  foliage  of  a  sickly,  yellow  appear- 
ance, from  which  they  would  not  recover ;  and  the  roots, 
when  taken  up,  are  of  little  use  for  farther  transplanting. 

A  good  plan  in  dry  seasons  is  to  cover  the  ground  be- 


Jlpril.~]  AURICULAS,  &c.  91 

tween  the  rows  with  cow  manure,  which  will  prevent  the 
moisture  from  evaporating,  and  the  rain  or  water  passing 
through  it  greatly  enriches  the  soil  and  strengthens  the 
roots. 


CHARACTER  OF  A  FINE  RANUNCULUS. 

"  It  is  indispensable  for  a  good  ranunculus  to  have  a  stem 
about  eight  or  twelve  inches  high,  strong  enough  to  sup- 
port the  flower,  and  quite  upright.  The  form  of  the  flower 
should  be  hemispherical,  not  less  than  two  inches  in  dia- 
meter, consisting  of  numerous  petals,  gradually  diminishing 
in  size  to  the  centre,  lying  over  each  other,  so  as  neither 
to  be  too  close  nor  too  much  separated,  but  having  more  of 
a  perpendicular  than  a  horizontal  direction,  in  order  to  dis- 
play the  colours  with  better  effect.  The  petals  should  be 
broad,  with  entire  well-rounded  edges,  their  colours  dark, 
clear,  rich,  or  brilliant,  either  of  one  colour  or  variously 
diversified,  on  a  ground  of  cinerous  white,  primrose,  yellow, 
or  flame  colour,  or  diversified  with  elegant  stripes,  .spots, 
or  mottlings." 

AURICULAS.    • 

Having  under  this  head  last  month  given  ample  direc- 
tions for  the  treatment  of  these  plants  previous  to  flowering, 
we  refer  to  that  head  to  avoid  repetition. 


CHARACTER  OF  A  FINE  AURICULA. 

The  pips  should  be  large,  flat,  and  round,  with  ground 
colour  equal  on  every  side  of  the  eye,  which  should  be 
quite  circular,  as  well  as  the  edge.  The  tube  a  bright 
lemon  yellow  perfectly  round,  well  filled  with  the  anthers 
or  thrum,  the  eye  round  and  large,  the  body  colour  black 
or  violet,  the  meal  fine,  the  colour,  in  green-edged  flowers, 
should  be  a  whole  one,  not  a  shaded  green.  The  stem 
strong,  and  sufficiently  long  to  bear  the  truss  above  the 
foliage — the  truss  to  consist  of  not  less  than  five  full-blown 
pips ;  only  one  stem  allowed. 


CHARACTER  OF  A  POLYANTHUS.  [April. 


CARNATIONS,  PINKS,  &c. 

If  any  of  these  were  omitted  to  be  shifted  last  month, 
or  planted  out  according  to  directions  therein  given,  let  it 
be  done  forthwith.  Where  they  are  still  protected  with 
frames,  give  them  plenty  of  air,  keeping  the  sashes  entirely 
off  during  the  day,  keep  the  pots  perfectly  free  from  weeds, 
and  give  the  foliage  frequent  sprinklings  with  water. 

Polyanthus  and  Primroses  will  be  exhibiting  their  beau- 
tiful flowers.  They  require  the  same  treatment,  and  de- 
light in  moisture  and  a  shaded  situation.  Do  not  sprinkle 
them  while  in  flower,  and  keep  them  clear  of  weeds  or 
decayed  leaves,  never  exposing  them  to  the  sun.  They 
are  very  hardy,  and,  where  required,  may  be  planted  in 
very  shady  situations,  for  they  will  suffer  more  from  the 
influence  of  the  sun's  rays  than  from  frost.  Those  plants 
in  pots  in  general  that  have  been  protected  in  frames,  and 
are  destined  for  the  borders,  should  now  as  soon  as  possible 
be  planted  in  their  destined  situations,  having  nothing  to 
fear  from  chilling  winds  or  frosts  after  the  middle  of  this 
month,  except  in  uncommon  seasons.  Those  that  are  to 
be  kept  in  pots,  if  not  repotted,  do  it  immediately,  and  give 
regular  supplies  of  water. 


CHARACTER  OF  A  POLYANTHUS. 

The  pips  large,  flat,  and  round,  with  small  indentures 
between  each  division  of  the  limb,  dividing  the  pip  into 
heart-like  segments  edged  with  bright  yellow ;  the  edge 
and  the  eye  ought  to  be  of  the  same  colour,  the  truss  to 
consist  of  not  less  than  five  full-blown  pips,  supported  on  a 
strong  stem,  standing  well  above  the  foliage. 


POLIANTHUS  TUBEROSA  FLORE  PLENO. 

This  very  popular  bulb,  generally  known  as  Tuberose, 
has  been  cultivated  in  England  upwards  of  two  centuries, 
whence  we  no  doubt  have  received  it,  and  now  can  return 
those  of  our  production  to  supply  their  demand.  The 


ON  THE  CULTURE  OF  THE  HEARTSEASE.        93 

flowers  are  many  and  highly  odoriferous,  and  of  the  purest 
white,  and  on  a  flower  stem  from  three  to  five  feet  high. 
•To  have  them  in  the  greatest  perfection,  they  should  be 
planted  in  a  lively  hot-bed,  about  the  first  of  this  month,  in 
six  inch  pots  filled  with  light  rich  earth,  giving  very  little 
water  until  they  begin  to  grow,  when  they  ought  to  be 
liberally  supplied  with  plenty  of  air,  and  about  the  end  of 
next  month  they  may  be  planted  in  the  borders,  providing 
a  spot  for  them  that  is  or  has  been  well  worked,  and  en- 
riched with  well  decomposed  manure.  Secure  their  flower 
stems  to  proper  rods.  Previous  to  planting  the  roots,  all 
the  off-sets  should  be  taken  off  and  planted  separately; 
keep  the  crown  of  the  bulb  level  with  the  surface  of  the 
pot,  and  when  they  are  replanted  in  the  open  ground,  put 
them  two  inches  deeper. 

But  when  the  convenience  of  a  hot-bed  cannot  be  ob- 
tained, they  will  succeed  very  well  if  planted  about  the  end 
of  this  month  or  first  of  next  in  the  garden,  in  a  bed  of  earth 
prepared  for  their  reception.  Let  it  be  dug  deep,  and 
make  the  soil  light  and  rich,  by  giving  it  a  good  supply  of 
manure  two  years  old,  well  broken  and  incorporated  with 
the  earth,  adding  a  little  sand  where  the  soil  is  heavy.  The 
black  earth  from  the  woods  produced  from  decayed"  leaves 
is  equally  as  good  without  sand.  Having  the  ground  in 
proper  order,  draw  drills  about  four  inches  deep  and 
eighteen  inches  apart ;  plant  the  bulbs  (after  divesting  them 
of  their  off-sets)  nine  inches  apart  in  the  row,  covering  the 
crown  of  the  bulb  about  an  inch  and  a  half.  When  done, 
carefully  rake  and  finish  off  the  beds.  When  they  shoot 
up  their  flower  stems,  give  them  neat  rods  for  their  sup- 
port. Plant  the  off-sets  in  closer  rows  to  produce  flowering 
roots  for  next  year,  because  they  seldom  flower  the  second 
time. 


ON  THE   CULTURE  OF   THE   HEARTSEASE  OR   PANSY, 
(VIOLA  TRICOLOUR.) 

The  simplicity  and  striking  beauty  of  this  lovely  little 
flower  have  attracted  notice  from  the  earliest  floral  times, but 
it  is  only  within  these  few  years  that  it  has  come  into  high 
estimation  as  a  florist's  flower.  Indeed,  when  the  figures 


94  HEARTSEASE  OR  PAXSV. 

and  descriptive  characters  of  these  "  little  gems"  came  first 
from  England  to  this  country,  we  were  almost  induced  to 
believe  they  were  exaggerated  "pictures  of  fancy,"  till  we 
actually  cultivated  within  these  last  two  years  in  our  own 
parterre  upwards  of  two  inches  in  diameter. 

They  delight  in  a  situation  partially  shaded  from  the  hot 
rays  of  the  sun,  either  fully  exposed  to  the  morning  rays 
till  ten  o'clock,  or  the  afternoon  sun  from  three  o'clock  ;  a 
soil  composed  of  four  parts  good  loam  and  one  part  tho- 
roughly rotted  manure,  or  three  parts  loam  and  one  part 
decayed  leaves,  not  less  than  one  foot  deep  :  the  soil  must 
not  be  more  elevated  than  the  surrounding  surface,  as  they 
like  a  good  supply  of  moisture.  If  they  are  to  be  cultivated 
from  seeds  they  should  be  thinly  sown  about  the  first  of  the 
month,  or  about  the  end  of  August  or  first  of  September, 
and  very  lightly  covered  with  fine  soil,  giving  them  very 
frequent  waterings  in  dry  weather.  Those  sown  now  will 
bloom  in  July,  and  very  profusely  in  the  autumn  ;  but  those 
sown  in  the  latter  period  will  not  bloom  till  early  the  follow- 
ing spring.  When  any  very  esteemed  variety  is  raised,  it 
should  be  propagated,  which  is  very  easily  done,  either  by 
layers  or  cuttings,  and  sometimes  by  division  of  the  root, 
but  the  two  former  methods  are  preferable.  The  best  time 
for  laying  is  about  the  first  of  September :  an  inch  or  two 
of  the  soil  may  be  removed  all  round  the  plant,  the  shoots 
laid  down  in  the  hollow,  and  covered  over  with  light  rich 
compost.  The  shoots  will  root  more  freely  if  they  get  a 
gentle  twist  when  laying  them  down.  The  best  period  for 
propagating  by  cuttings  is  about  the  middle  of  this  month 
or  September.  Cuttings  should  be  chosen  from  young 
shoots  about  two  or  three  inches  long ;  for'when  shoots  are 
woody  or  hollow  they  will  either  not  strike  at  all  or  produce 
unhealthy  plants.  A  shaded  but  airy  situation  is  prefera- 
ble, and  if  the  soil  is  of  a  light  sandy  nature,  the  better 
success  will  attend  the  operation :  the  cuttings  should  be 
firmly  inserted  from  one  to  two  inches  deep  in  the  ground, 
and  covered  with  a  glass,  or  where  that  convenience  is  not 
at  hand,  they  may  be  shaded  during  the  day  with  oiled 
paper,  or  any  similar  substitutes.  In  preparing  the  cut- 
tings, care  ought  to  be  taken  to  cut  close  to  a  joint,  a  rule 
which  should  be  strictly  attended  to  in  making  cuttings  of 
every  description.  When  they  have  fairly  rooted  and 


April. *\  GLADIOLUS  OR  SWORD  LILY.  95 

taken  a  growth,  they  can  be  removed  in  cloudy,  moist 
weather,  to  their  proper  allotments.  Seeds  ought  to  be 
carefully  collected  from  the  finer  sorts,  and  sown  as  soon 
thereafter  as  convenience  will  allow,  as  they  deteriorate 
by  long  keeping.  Many  hundreds  of  named  varieties  are 
carefully  cultivated  in  England.  A  select  list  sent  contains 
only  three  hundred  and  seyenty-four  names.  To  attempt 
a  general  or  even  brief  description  of  them  in  this  work 
would  be  considered  by  many  of  our  friends  prolix  and  un- 
necessary; but  the  following  criteria  of  a  fine  Pansy  has 
just  passed  a  select  committee  of  the  Pennsylvania  Horti- 
cultural Society: 

"  The  chief  object  to  be  desired  is  symmetry  of  the 
flower.  The  petals  should  be  large,  broad  and  flat,  lying 
upon  each  other  so  as  to  form  a  circle,  and  prevent  any 
thing  like  angles  or  intersections  of  this  circular  outline. 
The  petals  should  be  as  nearly  of  a  size  as  possible,  the 
two  top  ones  being  the  largest,  but  so  covered  with  the  two 
side  ones  as  not  to  appear  disproportioned.  The  top  petals 
should  not  wave  or  bend  back.  The  bottom  petal  should 
be  broad  and  two-lobed,  flat,  and  not  curving  inward ;  above 
an  inch  in  breadth  is  a  good  size ;  the  colours  should  be 
clear,  brilliant,  and  not  changing.  The  eye  should  not  be 
too  large,  and  it  is  accounted  finest  when  the  penciling  is 
so  arranged  as  to  form  a  dark  angular  spot. 

"  The  flower  stalk  should  be  long  and  stiff,  rather  than 
slender." 


GLADIOLUS  OR  SWORD  LILY. 

It  is  now  a  well  ascertained  fact  that  the  whole  of  this 
beautiful  family  will  succeed  well  with  a  treatment  similar 
to  the  tube  rose,  requiring  to  be  two  or  three  weeks  earlier 
planted:  indeed,  G.  communis  and  its  varieties  are  per- 
fectly hardy ;  but  the  splendid  G.  psittacinus,  with  large 
yellow,  red,  and  green  flowers  ;  G.  cardinalis,  scarlet  and 
white;  G.  blandus,rose  and  white;  G.JJorabundus,  shad- 
ed rose,  G.formosissimus,  magnificent  scarlet,  and  several 
others  are  worthy  of  the  greatest  care  and  attention;  their 
large  spikes  of  showy  flowers  will  well  compensate  for  an 
extra  degree  of  care  in  preparation  of  soil,  &c. 


96  TIGER  FLOWER.  [April. 


AMARYLLIS  FORMOSISSIMA,  OR  JACOBEA  LILY. 

About  the  end  of  this  or  beginning  of  next  month  is  the 
most  proper  time  for  planting  out  these  bulbs.  This  flower 
is  of  the  most  beautiful  and  rich  crimson  velvet  colour. 
The  bulb  generally  produces  two  stems,  the  one  after  the 
other,  about  the  end  of  May  or  first  of  June.  The  stem  is 
from  nine  inches  to  one  foot  high,  surmounted  by  a  single 
flower,  composed  of  six  petals,  three  hanging  down,  three 
erect  and  recurved ;  the  stamens  droop  on  the  .centre  of 
the  under  petals.  The  flower  thus  appears  nodding  on 
one  side  of  the  stem,  and  has  a  most  graceful  and  charm- 
ing appearance.  If  planted  in  a  bed,  prepare  the  ground 
as  before  directed  for  Tuberoses.  Keep  the  rows  one  foot 
asunder,  and  the  bulbs  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  cover- 
ing them  two  inches  over  their  crowns.  This  plant  is  now 
called  Spreikelia  formosissima,  and  we  think  properly, 
too,  for  its  character  and  habit  differ  from  Amaryllis.  ^ 

We  have  not  the  smallest  doubt,  that  in  a  few  years,  not 
only  this  superb  South  American  bulb  will  adorn  our  flower 
gardens,  but  many  of  the  rich  bulbs  of  Brazil  and  South 
America  generally  will  yearly  exhibit  to  us  the  beauty  of 
their  colours,  and  the  beautiful  construction  of  their  flowers 
and  foliage,  of  which  we  are  now  generally  deprived,  per- 
haps because  we  have  not  the  conveniency  of  a  proper 
hot-house  for  their  protection  during  winter.  But  it  will 
be  found,  in  many  instances,  that  these  bulbs  will  do  per- 
fectly well  to  be  kept  dry  in  a  warm  room  from  October  to 
May,  when  the  heat  of  our  summer  is  sufficient  for  the 
perfection  of  their  flowers,  and  many  species  will  ripen 
their  seeds.  The  bulb  that  is  known  as  Amaryllis  Bel- 
ladonna, now  called  Belladonna  purpufdscens,  is  hardy. 


TIGER  FLOWER. 

Tigridia,  a  genus  of  Mexican  bulbs  belonging  to  Mona- 
delphia  Tridndria,  producing  the  most  beautiful  flowers  of 
the  natural  order  of  Irideae.  T.  pavonia  is  of  the  bright- 
est scarlet,  tinged  and  spotted  with  pure  yellow.  T. 
conchiflora,  colour  rich  yellow,  tinged  and  spotted  with 


Jlpril.~\  WALKS.  97 

bright  crimson ;  flower  larger  than  the  former.  The  colours 
are  very  rich,  and  purely  contrasted.  The  corolla  is  about 
four  inches  in  diameter,  composed  of  six  petals ;  the  outer 
are  reflexed,  the  flower,  though  splendid  in  beauty,  exists 
only  one  day ;  but,  to  compensate  for  that,  a  plant  will 
produce  flowers  for  several  weeks ;  and  where  a  bed  of 
them  can  be  collected,  they  will,  bloom  in  profusion  from 
July  to  September.  They  like  a  light,  rich,  free  soil,  from 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  deep.  Lift  the  bulbs  in  October, 
and  preserve  them  as  directed  in  that  month  for  Tuberoses. 
Be  sure  that  they  be  kept  dry  and  secure  from  frost.  A  bed 
of  these  should  be  in  every  garden.  A  writer  says,  "  it  is 
the  most  beautiful  flower  that  is  cultivated."  Plant  them 
about  the  end  of  this  or  first  of  next  month;  if  in  beds, 
keep  them  six  inches  apart  in  the  row,  and  one  foot  apart 
from  row  to  row. 


WALKS. 

The  walks  in  general  should  be  put  in  the  neatest  order 
during  this  month.  Little  requires  to  be  added  to  the  ob- 
servations of  last  month,  but  if  these  have  not  been  exe- 
cuted, fail  not  to  have  it  done  the  first  opportunity,  choosing 
dry  weather  for  the  operation  of  turning  the  old,  or  adding 
new  gravel  to  them,  leveling,  raking,  and  rolling  neatly  as 
you  proceed.  Always  after  rain  give  the  whole  of  the 
gravel  walks  a  good  rolling.  This  being  frequently  done 
during  the  early  part  of  the  season,  will  be  a  saving  of 
much  labour  and  time  through  the  summer.  The  walks 
having  a  firm  surface,  the  growth  of  weeds  will  be  retarded, 
and  the  heavy  rains  will  not  be  so  apt  to  injure  them. 
Where  there  are  any  pretensions  to  keeping  these  in  order, 
they  ought  to  be  picked  of  weeds  and  litter  once  a  week, 
and  gone  over  with  the  roller  at  least  once  every  two  weeks 
during  the  season. 

Sweep  and  divest  the  grass  walks  or  plats  of  all  worm- 
casts,  litter,  &c.,  cutting  the  edgings  neatly.  Mow  the  grass 
every  two  or  three  weeks  from  this  time  to  October,  sweep- 
ing off  the  grass  clean  each  time,  and  give  frequent  rollings 
to  keep  the  surface  smooth.  If  any  require  to  be  laid  with 
turf,  delay  it  no  longer.  For  direction,  see  last  month.  The 
9 


98  EVERGREEN  HEDGES. 

above  observations  on  walks  in  general,  will  apply  through 
the  season;  therefore,  we  will  not  repeat  this  subject  until 
October. 


EVERGREEN  HEDGES. 

We  have  previously  observed,  under  the  head  Ever- 
greens, that  this  is  the  best  season  for  their  replanting.  We 
cannot  pass  over  the  observations  of  this  month,  without 
having  reference  to  evergreen  hedges,  so  much  neglected 
among  us,  and  yet  so  important  to  the  diversity  of  aspect, 
and  especially  to  soften  a  little  the  gloomy  appearance  of 
our  winters.  There  are  three  indigenous  shrubs,  and  at 
least  one  exotic,  that  are  well  adapted  for  the  purpose,  viz., 
Pinus  canadensis,  Hemlock-spruce ;  Thuja  occidentalis, 
American  arborvitse ;  Thuja  orientalis,  Chinese  arborvitse ; 
and  Juniperis  virginiana,  Red-cedar.  Where  there  is  to 
be  a  hedge  of  any  of  these  planted,  select  plants  about  two 
feet  high  ;  lift  them  carefully,  preserving  the  roots  as  much 
as  possible.  Dig  a  trench  from  one  and  a  half  to  two  feet 
wide,  and  from  one  to  one  foot  and  a  half  deep.  This  will 
admit  the  soil  to  be  well  broken  about  the  roots,  which 
must  be  done  in  planting.  Keep  the  plants  in  the  centre 
of  the  trench,  mixing  the  shortest  and  the  tallest,  that  it 
may  be  of  one  height,  putting  the  earth  close  about  their 
roots  as  you  proceed,  and  make  it  firm  with  the  foot ;  fill 
up,  and  water  as  directed  for  evergreens  in  this  month.  If 
the  season  is  very  dry,  give  it  frequent  copious  waterings. 

None  of  them  should  be  topped  for  a  few  seasons,  except 
such  as  are  much  above  the  others  in  height,  keeping  the 
sides  regular  and  even  by  clipping  or  shearing  once  a  year, 
either  in  this  month  or  at  the  end  of  August.  It  is  better 
to  keep  the  top  (when  they  have  got  to  the  desired  height) 
pointed,  than  broad.  The  latter  method  retains  a  heavy 
weight  of  snow,  which  frequently  breaks  down,  or  other- 
wise deforms,  that  which  has  cost  much  labour  to  put  into 
-shape. 


CARE  OF  PLANTS  COMING  INTO  FLOWER. 


BOX  EDGINGS. 

Where  these  have  not  been  laid,  this  month  is  the  proper 
time.  Do  not  delay  the  planting  of  such  any  later.  For 
ample  directions,  see  March,  under  this  head.  Clipping 
of  these  should  be  done  about  the  middle  of  this  month. 
There  will  then  be  no  danger  of  frosts  to  brown  the  leaves, 
and  the  young  foliage  will  not  be  expanded.  To  keep 
these  edgings  in  order,  they  must  be  cut  once  a  year,  and 
never  be  allowed  to  get  above  four  inches  high  and  two 
inches  wide.  What  we  consider  the  neatest  edging  is 
three  inches  high,  two  inches  wide  at  the  bottom,  tapering 
to  a  thin  edge,  at  the  top.  It  is  very  unsightly  to  see  large 
bushy  edgings,  especially  to  narrow  walks. 

The  use  of  edgings  is  to  keep  the  soil  from  the  gravel, 
and  the  larger  they  are  allowed  to  grow,  the  more  inef- 
fectual they  become ;  growing  more  open  below  as  they 
advance  in  height.  The  operation  may  be  done  very 
expeditiously  by  clipping  the  tops  level,  going  longitudi- 
nally along  with  shears  for  the  purpose,  called  "  box 
shears."  Strain  a  line  along  the  centre  of  the  edgings, 
cutting  perpendicularly  from  the  line  to  the  bottom  on  each 
side,  leaving  only  the  breadth  of  the  line  at  top.  Edgings 
cut  in  this  manner,  every  spring,  will  always  look  well, 
and  the  trouble,  comparatively,  is  a  mere  trifle. 


GENERAL   CARE  OF  PLANTS   COMING  INTO   FLOWER. 

Every  part  of  the  flower  ground  should  be  put  into  neat 
order,  giving  such  plants  about  the  borders  as  are  shooting 
up  their  flower  stems,  and  are  tender,  and  in  danger  of 
being  hurt  or  broken  by  the  wind,  proper  sticks  or  rods  for 
their  support.  In  doing  this,  endeavour  to  conceal  the 
rods,  &c.,  as  much  as  possible,  by  dressing  the  stems  and 
leaves  in  a  natural-looking  manner  over  them.  Let  the 
stakes  be  in  proportion  to  the  height  and  growth  of  the 
plants.  It  looks  very  unsightly  to  see  strong  stakes  to  short 
and  weak  growing  plants.  The  tyings  likewise  should  be 
proportionate. 

Examine  all  the  beds  and  patches  of  seedling  flowers 


100  DAHLIAS.  [May. 

now  coming'  up,  and  let  them  be  refreshed  with  water  as 
it  may  be  necessary,  and  pick  out  the  weeds  as  they  appear. 
We  cannot  leave  this  department  at  this  season  of  the 
year,  without  enforcing  the  benefit  and  beauty  that  will 
result  from  keeping  the  weeds  down  during  this  and  the 
next  month.  Therefore  strictly  observe  that  there  are 
none  running  to  seed  in  any  part  of  the  garden  ;  in  fact, 
they  ought  not  to  be  allowed  to  rear  their  heads  one  day  in 
sight. 


MAY. 

As  the  season  for  planting  out  the  Dahlia  is  now  ap- 
proaching, we  will  endeavour  to  give  our  readers  the  whole 
subject  of  their  management,  so  as  to  ensure  a  good  bloom 
of  this  the  most  fashionable  and  popular  ornamental  plant 
of  the  present  day.  As  very  many  are  entirely  unac- 
quainted with  the  nature  and  even  the  habits  of  the  plant, 
a  brief  synopsis  of  its  history  will  assist  in  giving  a  key  to 
its  culture.  The  plant  was  first  discovered  by  Humboldt, 
in  Mexico,  growing  in  sandy  plains,  ihree  thousand  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  date  is  not  precisely 
known,  but  supposed  to  be  about  1785-6.  Indisputable 
authority,  however,  speaks  of  its  being  introduced  into 
England  in  1789;  but  was  lost  and  again  introduced  in 
1803,  from  Madrid,  by  Lady  Holland ;  from  which  period 
till  1830,  it  had  but  little  notice  in  cultivation.  Indeed  it 
seems  to  have  been  reserved  for  the  intelligent  growers  of 
the  last  few  years  to  bring  it  into  general  notice ;  and  if  we 
take  a  retrospective  view  of  the  rapid  progress  of  Dahlia 
culture  within  these  last  five  years,  we  will  be  led  to  ex- 
claim, "Where  will  all  this  terminate?"  but  time  alone  can 
solve  the  question ;  at  present  it  is  impossible  to  come  to 
any  satisfactory  conclusions.  Only  a  few  years  ago,  and 
who  would  have  conceived  the  idea  of  having  tipped, 
striped,  and  spotted  Dahlias  of  almost  every  hue  and  colour; 
and  although  historical  writers  on  the  genus  alluded  to  the 
improbability  of  a  blue  flower  ever  being  produced,  yet  it 
is  not  unreasonable  to  imagine  that  ere  long  we  will  have 


PROPAGATION BY  CUTTINGS.  101 

flowers  beautifully  and  distinctly  striped  with  black  and 
white,  and  even  combining  the  gaudy  colours  of  the  tulip, 
or  the  choicest  hues  of  the  carnation ;  perhaps  the  criteria 
of  character  may  change  to  those  of  huge  globular  forms  or 
balls — nay,  even  the  odour  of  the  Rose  or  the  Jasmine  may 
be  imparted,  and  what  then?  Only  let  amateurs  and  cul- 
tivators persevere  with  the  spirit  they  have  done  during 
the  last  few  years,  and  we  think  all  we  have  advanced  wiH 
be  realized. 

Propagation.  This  operation  may  be  performed  in  vari- 
ous ways,  either  by  division  of  the  root,  by  cutting  of  the 
young  shoots,  or  by  grafting.  For  general  planting,  divi- 
sion of  the  root  will  be  sufficient ;  about  the  first  of  the 
month  the  old  root,  entire,  should  be  planted  in  some  warm 
and  sheltered  spot  of  the  garden,  covering  it  with  sand, 
vegetable  mould,  or  any  light  soil ;  in  about  two  weeks  the 
eyes  or  young  shoots  will  have  sprouted :  then  it  will  be 
properly  seen  how  they  can  be  most  carefully  divided ;  the 
root  should  be  carefully  cut  into  as  many  pieces  as  there 
are  eyes  or  sprouts,  leaving  only  one  tuber  to  each,  when 
they  can  be  planted  into  the  situation  appropriated  for  their 
blooming. 

Propagation  by  Cuttings.  Prepare  a  hot-bed  in  March, 
as  therein  described,  and  place  a  frame  and  lights  of  the 
required  size  upon  it,  scatter  over  the  surface  of  the  bed 
four  or  five  inches  of  sand,  old  bark,  or  any  light  soil ;  after 
four  or  five  days,  the  fresh  steam  will  have  subsided,  when 
the  roots  may  be  laid  thereon,  covering  them  (but  not  over 
the  crowns)  with  light  sandy  soil ;  but  where  large  pots  can 
be  obtained,  I  prefer  planting  them  in  the  pots;  by  this 
means  the  plants  are  kept  distinct,  and  can  be  taken  out 
at  any  time  and  examined.  They  should  be  frequently 
sprinkled  with  water  that  is  partially  warm;  and  if,  after 
they  are  thus  placed  in  the  bed,  a  rank  and  dense  steam 
should  arise,  the  lights  should  be  slightly  raised  both  night 
and  day,  till  it  subsides ;  and  if  the  nights  are  cold,  cover 
the  lights  with  mats  or  shutters.  This  gentle  bottom  heat 
will  speedily  induce  the  eyes  to  grow,  and  when  the  shoots 
have  attained  the  height  of  three  or  four  inches,  they 
should  be  cut  off  close  to  the  base,  which  makes  the  best 
plant.  After  the  cuttings  are  taken  off,  pot  them  singly 
into  v«ry  small  pots  filled  with  light  «aady  loam,  containing 
9* 


102  BV  GRAFTING — SOIL.  [May. 

a  good  portion  of  black  earth  from  the  woods,  and  placed 
in  another  moderate  hot-bed  and  give  a  gentle  supply  of 
water.  Particular  care  must  be  paid  to  shading  them  from 
the  violent  rays  of  the  sun,  for  if  they  are  once  exposed, 
they  seldom  recover :  in  this  state  they  should  continue  till 
they  have  formed  their  roots,  which,  in  a  temperature  of 
from  sixty  to  seventy  degrees,  will  be  in  from  two  to  three 
weeks.  Where  a  great  stock  of  any  particular  sort  is 
wanted,  the  cuttings  should  be  taken  off  just  below  a  joint, 
leaving  two  or  three  eyes  at  the  base  of  the  shoot,  which 
will  again  speedily  produce  new  shoots,  that  can  be  again 
removed  in  a  similar  manner. 

When  the  plants  are  rooted,  they  may  then  be  consid- 
ered established,  and  all  that  is  necessary  is,  to  shift  them 
into  larger  pots  as  they  require  ;  and  gradually  inure  them 
to  a  lower  temperature,  till  they  can  endure  the  open  air, 
which  will  not  be  before  the  middle  of  May. 

Propagation  by  Grafting.  Where  only  a  few  plants 
are  wanted,  this  is  a  very  successful  method,  as  an  opera- 
tion can  be  conducted  in  the  office  or  parlour  window.  The 
cutting  intended  for  the  graft  should  have  about  three  joints ; 
when  obtained,  select  a  good  tuber  without  eyes  from  any 
common  sort,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  a  slice  from  the 
upper  part  of  the  root  downward  about  two  inches  in  length, 
and  about  half  an  inch  in  depth,  and  then  cut  it  off  horizon- 
tally, leaving  a  ledge  whereon  to  rest  the  graft ;  next  cut 
the  graft  sloping  to  fit,  and  cut  it  so  that  an  eye  or  joint  may 
be  at  the  bottom  of  it  to  rest  on  the  aforesaid  ledge.  After 
the  graft  has  been  firmly  tied,  a  piece  of  clay  should  be 
put  round  it,  pot  the  root  in  fine  soil,  in  a  pot  that  will  bury 
the  graft  half  way  in  the  mould,  and  cover  it  with  a  glass, 
(a  large  tumbler  will  do,)  and  in  two  weeks  it  will  have 
taken  root,  the  glass  may  then  be  removed,  and  the  plant 
gradually  inured  to  the  open  air. 

Soil.  As  far  as  my  observations  enable  me  to  judge, 
the  soil  best  adapted  for  the  Dahlia  is  a  sandy  loam,  not 
retentive  of  moisture,  and  not  too  rich,  as  they  will  grow  to 
leaves  and  branches,  producing  few  flowers,  and  even  then 
imperfect :  not  too  poor,  as  in  such  they  will  be  very  indif- 
ferent, meagre  in  size  and  general  appearance.  Where 
soils  are  rich  and  heavy,  a  portion  of  sand  or  gravel  should 
be  mixed  in  the  soil  where  they  are  planted :  but  if  poor, 


May.']  ARRANGEMENT.  103 

incorporate  with  the  sand  well  decomposed  manure ;  and 
when  the  plants  are  planted,  a  stick  in  proportion  to  the 
plant  should  be  put  with  it,  and  at  least  eighteen  inches  in 
the  ground,  and  not  less  than  two  inches  in  diameter,  to 
which  they  must  be  carefully  tied  as  they  grow,  never 
allowing  more  than  one  stem  to  each  plant ;  and  the  side 
branches  should  be  cut  off  from  one  to  three  feet  from  the 
ground,  according  to  the  height  of  the  plant.  Oakley's 
Surprise,  the  most  favourite  crimson  Dahlia,  tipped  with 
white,  comes  invariably  true  to  its  character  in  sandy  soil, 
whereas,  in  rich  heavy  soil,  it  is  frequently  only  crimson. 
The  worst  of  all  soils  for  the  Dahlia,  is  a  rich  loam  reten- 
tive of  moisture ;  in  such  they  grow  to  wood  and  foliage, 
producing  few  and  very  imperfect  flowers. 

The  best  disposition  or  arrangement  in  planting  the 
Dahlia,  I  think,  is  in  groups;  each  group  should  be  com- 
posed of  a  different  section  of  colour :  this  affords  a  close 
comparison,  and  gives  greater  diversity  of  landscape,  than 
combining  the  colours;  the  tallest  growing  sorts  should  be 
carefully  planted  in  the  centre  or  at  the  back  of  each  group. 
The  roots  should  be  planted  from  three  to  four  feet  from 
each  other  every  way.  But  where  they  are  planted  in 
rows  along  walks  or  avenues,  two  or  three  feet  will  be  a 
sufficient  distance  from  plant  to  plant.  Individual  plants 
look  extremely  well  if  they  are  of  a  dwarf  habit.  To  have 
a  continued  succession  of  bloom,  there  should  be  two  plant- 
ings; the  first  about  the  fifteenth  of  the  month,  and  the 
latest  about  the  end  of  June ;  it  is  the  June  planting  that 
generally  produces  the  finest  flowers ;  this  fact  (though 
lately  discovered)  is  now  well  understood  by  some  cultiva- 
tors, and  is  easily  accounted  for.  When  plants  are  forced 
and  planted  early,  they  are  in  a  flowering  state  much 
earlier,  to  be  sure,  but  they  are  overtaken  with,  perhaps,  a 
hot,  dry  summer,  which  "blights"  the  buds,  and  are  more 
subject  to  the  disease  called  "  curl ;"  the  young  leaves,  as 
they  expand,  are  perforated  with  numerous  holes ;  the 
margins  become  brownish,  as  if  burnt ;  they  then  become 
curled,  placid,  and  the  whole  plant  unhealthy  and  dwarfish. 
The  principal  stem  ceases  to  grow,  and  numerous  suckers 
and  stems  arise  from  below,  forming  a  dense  bush.  The 
flowers  of  such  plant,  as  might  be  expected,  are  small  and 
irregular ;  and  however  excellent  the  variety  may  be,  they 


104  ARRANGEMENT.  [Mil/. 

yield  nothing  but  disappointment  to  the  anxiously  expect- 
ant cultivator.  This  disease  is  caused  by  an  insect,  Cymix 
Chloroterus,  or  green  bug.  It  inhabits  the  extremities  of 
the  Dahlia,  and  grows  and  feeds  on  the  under  surface  of 
the  young  leaves,  and  in  its  destruction  is  aided  by  our 
frequently  hot  and  arid  months  of  July  and  August. 
Hence,  the  reason  that  the  late  planting  gives  most  satis- 
faction, they  are  in  these  months  in  a  rapid  growing  state, 
and  if  attacked  outgrow  the  effects,  and  push  at  once  into 
bloom  in  the  more  moist  and  cooling  month  of  September. 
The  only  remedy  that  is  known  for  the  above  evil  is,  to 
look  over  the  plants  cautiously  in  the  morning  when  the 
first  attacks  are  perceptible,  and  pick  off  the  insect ;  it  has 
to  be  approached  with  caution,  as  it  instinctively  throws 
itself  down  among  the  leaves  if  disturbed  ;  -and  if  it  escapes, 
it  again  climbs  up,  and  commences  its  depredations.  It  is 
admitted  that  there  are  exceeding  one  thousand  distinct 
named  varieties  now  in  cultivation,  and  it  may  be  desirable 
to  some  that  a  select  list  of  the  choicest  named  sorts  now  in 
cultivation  should  be  given :  but  such  is  the  almost  endless 
multiplicity  of  kinds,  and  such  the  numerous  additions 
every  year  made,  that  in  a  few  years  those  I  may  mention 
now  as  being  fine,  will  then  most  probably  be  considered 
wholly  useless.  However,  for  immediate  profit  and  bene- 
fit, I  recommend  the  following: 

PURE  WHITE. 

Antagonist,  Lewisham  Rival, 

Cheltenham  dueen,  Miss  Percival, 

Lady  Langston,  Pride  of  Sussex, 

White  Defiance,  Virgin  Queen. 

WHITE  OR  BLUSH,  SHADED  OR  EDGED  WITH  PINK 
OR  RED. 

Beauty  of  Sussex,  Countess  of  Pembroke, 

Exquisite,  Beauty  of  Wakefield, 

Emma  Noke,  Favourite, 

Lady  Antrobus,  Lady  St.  Maur, 

Mrs.  Rushton,  Diana, 

Phenomenon,  Queen  of  the  Isles. 


May.~\  ARRANGEMENT.  105 


LILAC. 


Formosa,  Hon.  Miss  Abbot, 

Lady  Harland,  Lady  Middleton, 

Mrs.  Jones,  Mrs.  Shelley, 

Princess  Royal,  Queen  of  Beauties. 


ROSE  OR  PINK. 

Hero  of  Tippecanoe,  Hope, 

Kingscote  Rival,  Queen,  (WidnalFs,) 

Rose  Unique,  Beauty  of  Kent. 


PURE  YELLOW. 

Apollo,  Argo, 

Ophir,  Prince  of  Wales, 

Yellow  Victory,  Winterton  Rival. 


YELLOW  OR,  BUFF,  STRIPED  OR  TIPPED  WITH  RED. 

Bloomsbury,  buff,  Unique, 

Desdemona,  Harlequin, 

Princess  Royal,  (Hudson,)     Pontiac. 


ORANGE. 
Aurantia,  Orange  Superb. 

RED  OR  ROSY  RED. 

Perfection,  (McKenzie's,)      Prince  Albert, 

Sir  W.  Middleton,  Duchess  of  Richmond. 


10(5 


ARRANGEMENT. 


Bloomsbury,  (Lee's), 

Eclipse, 

Vivid. 


SCARLET. 


Fire  King, 
Tournament, 


Caleb  Cope, 
Marechal  Soult, 
Thomas  Clarkson, 


ROSY  CRIMSON. 


Hero  of  the  West, 
Sir  Fred.  Johnson, 
Henry  Clay,  (Schmitz.) 


Bedford  Surprise, 
Roderick, 
Springfield  Rival, 


CRIMSON. 


Ne  plus  ultra, 
Thomas  C.  Percival, 
Rival  Sussex. 


General  Houston, 
Pickwick, 


PURPLE. 


Sultan, 

Violet  Perfection. 


DARK  MAROON  AND  VERY  DARK. 


Admiral  Stopford, 

Conqueror, 

Hero  of  Stonehenge, 

Standard  of  Perfection, 


Competitor, 
Essex  Triumph, 
Horace  Binney, 
Washington  Irving. 


CRIMSON  PERMANENTLY  TIPPED  WITH  WHITE. 
Oakley's  Surprise,  Eveque  de  Tournay. 


STRIPED. 
Striata  formosissima,  Formosa. 


Ma,y.~]  CHARACTER  OF  A  FINE  DAHLIA.  1G7 

The  above  are  the  choicest  in  cultivation  at  the  present 
time,  and  for  farther  description  in  regard  to  colour,  height 
and  price,  we  beg  to  refer  our  readers  to  the  periodical 
catalogues  of  our  respectable  nurserymen  that  are  issued 
every  spring,  and  contain  many  other  sorts  of  eminence  ; 
and  not  a  few  equally  desirable  with  the  above,  though  the 
descriptions  of  some  that  are  annually  received  from  Eng- 
land are  more  tempting  than  the  article :  whether  there  are 
some  sorts  that  do  produce  more  perfect  and  beautiful  flow- 
ers in  their  humid  climate  than  they  do  when  transferred 
to  ours,  we  cannot  practically  decide,  but  presume  that  it 
is  the  fact,  for  we  are  confident,  and  every  season  does 
more  fully  confirm  it,  that  the  seedlings  grown  in  this  coun- 
try from  seed  sowed  here  do  grow  better,  and  flower  finer, 
than  the  generality  of  those  imported  ;  and,  to  prevent  us 
adopting  inferior  sorts,  and  giving  them  dashing  names, 
we  subjoin  the  following  rules  for  judging: 


CHARACTER  OF  A  FINE  DAHLIA. 

"  The  best  judges  distinguish  Dahlias  by  the  three  cri- 
teria of  form,  colour  and  size. 

"1.  Form. — The  front  view  of  the  blossom  should  be 
perfectly  circular,  without  notches  or  inequalities,  caused  by 
the  petals  being  pointed,  and  not  as  they  should  be,  round- 
ed, smooth  at  the  edges,  and  slightly  concave,  but  not  so 
much  as  to  show  any  of  the  back.  One  of  the  most  per- 
fect flowers,  in  this  respect,  is  the  Springfield  Rival.  When 
the  petals  are  pointed,  notched,  fringed,  piped,  quilled,  con- 
cave, convex,  or  flat,  the  perfectness  of  the  circle  is  broken, 
and  one  indispensable  beauty  in  the  eye  of  the  florist  is 
deficient. 

"When  the  eye  or  disc  is  shown  in  the  full-blown  flower, 
it  is  also  a  striking  defect. 

"The  side  view  of  a  first  rate  flower  should  be  that  of  a 
perfect  hemisphere. 

"There  is,  perhaps,  no  example  of  this  perfection  of  form 
without  some  slight  deficiency.  The  Countess  of  Liver- 
pool is  one  of  the  nearest  to  a  perfect  flower  in  this  respect. 

"  2.  Colour.— This  is  looked  upon  by  florists  as  an  infe- 


108          ANNUALS,  HARDY  AND  TENDER.        \_May. 

rior  consideration  to  form,  though  it  is  usually  the  first  to 
attract  the  notice  of  common  observers. 

"  In  flowers  of  one  colour,  or  selfs,  the  colour  ought  to  be 
bright  and  distinct,  without  any  breaking  or  blotching. 
When  there  are  stripes,  mottlings,  shadings,  or  edgings, 
these  should  be  clear  and  uniformly  marked,  the  colours 
distinct  without  clouding  or  running. 

"  3.  Size. — Although  large  flowers  with  superior  form 
and  clear  distinct  colours  are  esteemed  superior  to  small 
flowers  with  the  same  properties,  yet  size  alone  is  looked 
upon  by  florists  as  nothing  when  form  and  colour  are  de- 
fective." 

Particular  care  should  be  taken  with  seeds,  especially 
such  as  are  saved  from  fine  sorts.  If  they  are  sown  about 
the  first  of  April,  on  a  gentle  hot-bed,  or  in  a  green-house 
in  plots,  filled  with  light  rich  earth,  covering  the  seeds 
about  three-eighths  of  an  inch,  and  when  they  have  made 
leaves,  pot  them  off  singly  into  small  pots,  till  time  for 
planting  out,  or  where  a  quantity  is  grown,  three  plants 
may  be  put  into  one  pot,  and  thus  planted,  and  when  they 
bloom  the  bad  can  be  pulled  up,  leaving  those  of  good  cha- 
racter to  stand  for  farther  trial :  none  should  be  kept  but 
such  as  come  up  to  the  above  rules;  and  if  they  do  not  do 
so  the  first  year,  there  is  little  hope  of  their  being  more 
perfect  the  second. 


ANNUALS,  HARDY  AND  TENDER. 

By  the  first  of  the  month  finish  sowing  all  hardy  An- 
nuals and  Biennials ;  and  about  the  middle  of  the  month 
all  those  that  are  tropical.  The  weather  being  now  warm, 
they  will  vegetate  in  a  few  days  or  weeks.  Attend  to  thin- 
ning of  those  that  are  too  thick,  giving  gentle  waterings  to 
such  as  are  weak  in  dry  weather.  Those  that  have  been 
protected  in  frames  should  be  fully  exposed  therein  night 
and  day;  take  the  first  opportunity  of  damp  cloudy  days 
to  have  them  transplanted  into  the  borders  or  beds,  lifting 
them  out  of  the  frame  with  as  much  earth  as  will  adhere 
to  their  roots. 


TUBEROSES  AND  AMARYLLIS.  109 


CARE  OF  HYACINTHS,  TULIPS,  &c. 

For  the  treatment  of  these,  while  in  bloom,  see  last  month. 
The  best  time  to  take  them  out  of  the  ground,  is  about  five 
weeks  after  they  are  done  flowering,  or  when  the  stem  ap- 
pears what  may  be  termed  half  decayed.  The  best  method 
to  dry  them  is  to  place  the  roots  in  rows,  with  bulb  to  bulb, 
the  stems  lying  north  and  south,  or  east  and  west.  Give  the 
bulbs  a  very  thin  covering  of  earth,  merely  to  exclude  the 
sun,  so  that  they  may  not  dry  too  rapidly,  being  thereby 
liable  to  become  soft.  When  they  have  thoroughly  dried  in 
this  situation,  which  will  be  in  eight  or  ten  days  in  dry  wea- 
ther, (and  if  it  rains  cover  them  with  boards,)  take  them  to 
an  airy  dry  loft  or  shade,  clearing  off  the  fibres  or  stems, 
and  in  a  few  weeks  put  them  in  close  drawers,  or  cover 
them  with  sand  perfectly  dry,  until  the  time  of  planting,  for 
which  see  October. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  allow  any  of  the  bulbs  of.  either 
Hyacinths  or  Tulips  to  seed,  as  it  retards  their  ripening 
and  weakens  the  root,  except  where  there  are  a  few  desired 
for  new  varieties.  The  small  off-sets  must  be  carefully 
kept  in  dry  sand,  or  immediately  planted. 


ANEMONES  AND  RANUNCULUS. 

These,  while  in  bloom,  should  be  carefully  shaded  from 
the  sun  by  hoops  and  thin  canvas,  or  an  erect  temporary 
awning ;  and  as  soon  as  they  are  done  flowering,  they  must 
be  fully  exposed  and  the  waterings  given  up. 


TUBEROSES  AND  AMARYLLIS, 

That  are  not  planted,  should  now  be  done.  For  full 
directions,  see  last  month.  In  many  seasons,  any  time 
before  the  twelfth  is  quite  soon  enough ;  but  nothing  ought 
to  be  delayed  when  the  season  will  permit  it  to  be  done. 
It  is  necessary  to  have  them  properly  labeled. 

10 


110      ^  GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


AURICULAS,  POLYANTHUS,  AND  PRIMROSES, 

Will  now  be  done  flowering,  but  still  must  be  carefully 
kept  in  a  cool,  shady  situation,  and  all  decayed  leaves  cut 
off  as  soon  as  they  appear.  Examine  them  carefully  and 
frequently,  in  case  slugs  of  any  description  be  preying 
upon  them.  A  dusting  of  hot  lime  will  kill  them,  or  they 
may  be  otherwise  destroyed.  Some  have  recommended  to 
repot  and  slip  those  plants  when  done  flowering,  "or  they 
will  contract  a  destructive  disease;"  which  disease  is  a  loss 
of  verdure,  and  is  induced  by  too  much  heat  and  drought, 
and  a  few  other  causes  from  inattention ;  but  if  attended  to 
as  above,  until  September,  when  they  should  be  fresh- 
potted,  they  will  have  time  to  be  sufficiently  established 
before  winter,  which  is  the  most  judicious  time  to  take  off 
slips,  for  two  reasons,  namely,  they  do  not  want  so  much 
nursing  through  the  most  precarious  season  of  the  year 
(summer)  for  these  plants,  and  they  begin  to  grow,  and  will 
root  afresh  sooner. 


DOUBLE  WALL-FLOWERS. 

As  these  are  very  seldom  grown  from  seed,  and  are 
semi-biennials,  art  has  to  be  used  to  preserve  or  renew 
them.  About  the  end  of  this  month,  take  shoots  of  this 
year  about  three  inches  long,  cutting  them  carefully  off, 
and  smoothing  the  cut  end  with  a  sharp  knife :  from  this  cut 
the  lower  leaves  off  about  one  inch  and  a  half,  and  then  put 
it  in  the  ground  ;  choose  a  very  shady  spot,  mixing  the  soil 
with  a  little  sand  and  earth,  or  decayed  leaves.  Sprinkle 
them  three  times  a  day  until  they  have  taken  root,  which 
will  be  in  a  few  weeks.  Keep  the  cuttings  about  four 
inches  apart. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

We  do  not  consider  that  it  is  essential  every  month  to 
repeat  the  necessity  of  tying  up  plants,  cutting  down 
weeds,  raking,  &c.,  with  many  other  similar  observations. 


June  and  July  r\   AUTUMN  FLOWERING  BULBS.  Ill 

We  have  already  been  full  on  these  subjects,  and  expect 
these  to  be  remembered  through  the  season.  Particular 
care,  however,  is  required  to  carnations,  pinks,  or  any 
plants  that  have  heavy  heads  and  slender  stems.  If  car- 
nations are  desired  to  flower  strongly,  cut  off  all  the  buds 
except  three,  leaving  the  uppermost  and  any  other  two  of 
the  largest.  All  climbing  plants  should  have  timely  sup- 
port, and  tied  securely^very  week  while  they  are  growing. 


JUNE  AND  JUlit. 


HOLLAND  BULBS. 

THE  lifting  of  these  will  be  general  in  June^  For  direc- 
tions, see  May.  It  is  not  advisable  to  take  up  Jonquils, 
Fritilldria,  Crocus,  and  Iris,  oftener  than  every  alternate 
year.  Jonquils  may  stand  three  years.  Anemones  and 
Ranunculus  should  be  carefully  lifted  after  their  leaves 
begin  to  fade.  Do  not  expose  them  to  the  sun,  but  cover 
slightly  with  earth  or  sand  until  they  are  perfectly  dry, 
when  they  may  be  sifted  out  of  the  earth,  and  put  into 
drawers  carefully  labeled.  Some  recommend  to  soak  these 
roots  in  soap-suds,  to  destroy  a  worm  with  which  they  are 
frequently  attacked.  We  know  not  how  far  this  may  be 
carried,  nor  the  good  or  bad  effects,  never  having  prac- 
tised it. 


AUTUMN  FLOWERING  BULBS. 

These  are  Amaryllis  lutea,  now  called  Sternbtrgia 
liitea;  A.  Belladonna,  now  Belladonna  purpurascens  ; 
Crocus  satwus,  C.  Pallasii,  C.  serotinus,  and  C.  nudiflorus, 
and  all  the  species  of  Colchicum,  with  species  of  several 
other  genera  not  introduced  into  the  country.  They  should 
all  be  lifted  as  soon  as  the  foliage  is  decayed,  and  kept  only 
a  few  weeks  out  of  the  ground,  and  then  again  replanted 


112  CARNATIONS  AND  PINKS.  [June  and  July. 

in  fresh  soil.  The  economy  of  the  genus  Colchicum  in 
regard  to  its  bulbs,  flowers,  and  seeds,  is  altogether  singu- 
lar, and  may  be  termed  an  anomaly  of  nature.  In  pro- 
ducing the  new  bulbs  or  off-sets,  in  a  very  curious  manner 
the  old  one  perishes.  The  flowers,  which  arise  with  long 
slender  tubes  from  the  root,  die  off  in  October,  without 
leaving  any  external  appearance  of  seeds.  These  lie 
buried  all  the  winter  within  the  bulb ;  in  spring  they  throw 
•up  a  fruit  stalk,  and  are  ripe  about  the  first  of  June.  How 
beautiful  and  admirable  is  this  provision!  The  plant 
blooming  so  late  in  the  year,  would  not  have  time  to  ma- 
ture its  seeds  before  winter ;  and  is,  therefore,  so  contrived 
that  it  may  be  performed  out  of  the  reach  of  the  usual 
effects  of  frost,  and  they  are  brought  above  the  surface 
when  perfected,  and  at  a  proper  season  for  sowing. 


CARNATIONS  AND  PINKS. 

In  order  to  make  the  former  flower  well,  if  the  weather 
is  dry,  give  them  frequent  waterings  at  the  root,  and  tie 
them  up  neatly  to  their  rods.  The  criterion  of  a  fine  Car- 
nation is — The  stem  strong  and  straight,  from  thirty  to 
forty  inches  high,  the  corolla  three  inches  in  diameter,  con- 
sisting of  large,  round,  well  formed  petals,  but  not  so  many 
as  to  crowd  it,  nor  so  few  as  to  make  it  appear  thin  or 
empty ;  the  outside  petals  should  rise  above  the  calyx  about 
half  an  inch,  and  then  turn  off  in  a  horizontal  direction,  to 
support  the  interior  petals,  they  forming  nearly  a  hemi- 
spherjcal  corolla.  The  interior  petals  should  decrease  in 
size  toward  the  centre,  all  regularly  disposed  on  every 
side ;  they  should  have  a  small  degree  of  concavity  at  the 
lamina  or  broad  end,  the  edges  perfectly  entire.  The  calyx 
above  one  inch  in  length,  with  strong  broad  points  in  a 
close  and  circular  body.  The  colours  must  be  perfectly 
distinct,  disposed  in  regular  long  stripes,  broadest  at  the 
edge  of  the  lamina,  and  gradually  becoming  narrower  as 
they  approach  the  unguis  or  base  of  the  petal,  there  termi- 
nating in  a  fine  point.  Those  that  contain  two  colours 
upon  a  white  ground  are  esteemed  the  finest. 

The,  criterion  of  a  double  pink.— The  stem  about  twelve 
inches,  the  calyx  smaller,  but  similar  to  a  carnation ;  the 


June  and  July.']  OF  XAYING  CARNATIONS,  &c.  113 

flower  two  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter;  petals  rose 
edges ;  colour  white  and  pure  purple,  or  rich  crimson ;  the 
nearer  it  approaches  to  black  the  more  is  it  esteemed;  pro- 
portions equal  as  in  carnation.  Those  that  are  very  taste- 
ful with  these  flowers  are  attentive  to  the  manner  of  their 
opening.  Where  the  calyx  is  deficient  in  regular  expan- 
sion, to  display  the  petals ;  that  is,  where  there  is  a  tend- 
ency to  burst  open  on  one  side  more  than  on  the  other,  the 
opposite  side  in  two  or  three  different  indentations  should 
be  slit  a  little  at  several  times  with  the  point  of  a  small 
sharp  knife,  taking  care  not  to  cut  the  petals,  and  about  the 
centre  of  the  calyx  tie  a  thread  three  or  four  times  round  to 
prevent  any  further  irregularity.  Some  florists  and  con- 
noisseurs place  cards  on  them.  This  is  done  when  the  calyx 
is  small.  Take  a  piece  of  thin  pasteboard,  about  the  size  of 
a  dollar,  cut  a  small  aperture  in  its  centre  to  admit  the  bud 
to  pass  through.  When  on,  tie  it  tight  to  the  rod,  to  pre- 
vent the  wind  from.blowing  it  about ;  and  when  the  flower 
is  expanded,  draw  up  the  card  to  about  the  middle  of  the 
calyx,  and  spread  the  petals  one  over  the  other  regularly 
upon  it.  When  these  plants  are  in  flower,  their  beauty 
may  be  prolonged  by  giving  them  a  little  shade  from  the 
mid-day  sun  by  an  awning  of  any  simple  description. 
Where  they  are  in  pots,  they  can  be  removed  to  a  cool 
shady  situation  (but  not  directly  under  trees). 


OF  LAYING  CARNATIONS  AND  PINKS. 

This  is  a  necessary  and  yearly  operation  to  keep  a  sup- 
ply of  plants,  and  likewise  to  have  them  always  in  perfec- 
tion. As  the  process  of  laying,  though  simple,  may  not 
be  known  to  all  who  are  desirous  of  cultivating  these 
plants,  we  will  give  an  outline  of  the  mode  of  operation. 
Provide  first  a  quantity  of  small  hooked  twigs,  (pieces  of 
Asparagus  stems  are  very  suitable,)  about  three  inches 
long,  for  pegging  the  layers  down  in  the  earth.  Select 
the  outward,  strongest  and  lowest  shoots  that  are  round  the 
plant;  trim  ofFa  few  of  the  under  leaves,  and  shorten  the 
top  ones  even  with  the  knife,  and  then  applying  it  at  a 
joint  about  the  middle  of  the  under  side  of  the  shoot,  cut 
about  half  through  in  a  slanting  direction,  making  an  up- 
10* 


114  or  BUDDING,  &u.        [June  and  July. 

ward  slit  toward  the  next  joint,  near  an  inch  in  extent ;  and 
loosening  the  earth,  make  a  small  oblong  cavity  one  or  two 
inches  deep,  putting  a  little  fresh  light  earth  therein.  Lay 
the  stem  part  where  the  slit  is  made  into  the  earth,  keep- 
ing the  cut  part  open,  and  the  head  of  the  layer  upright 
one  or  two  inches  out  of  the  earth ;  and  in  that  position 
peg  down  the  layer  with  one  of  the  hooked  twigs,  and 
cover  the  inserted  part  to  the  depth  of  one  inch  with  some 
of  the  fresh  earth,  pressing  it  gently  down.  In  this  man- 
ner proceed  to  lay  all  the  proper  shoots  of  each  plant. 
Keep  the  earth  a  little  full  around  the  plant,  to  retain 
longer  the  water  that  may  be  applied.  Give  immediately 
a  moderate  watering,  with  a  rose  watering-pot,  and  in  dry 
weather  give  light  waterings  every  evening.  Choose  a 
cloudy  day  for  the  above  operation.  In  about  two  months 
they  will  be  well  rooted. 


OF  BUDDING  OR  INOCULATION  OF  ROSES. 

According  to  what  we  have  previously  hinted  in  regard 
to  having  roses  as  standards,* where  such  are  desired,  the 
month  of  July  or  August  is  a  proper  time  for  the  opera- 
tion of  budding.  The  kinds  to  be  taken  for  stocks  should 
be  of  a  strong  free  growth :  such  as  Maiden's  blush,  Dutch 
tree,  JR.  villosa,  JR.  canina,  and  frequently  the  French  Eg- 
lantine are  taken.  Be  provided  with  a  proper  budding 
knife,  which  has  a  sharp,  thin  blade,  adapted  to  prepare 
the  bud,  with  a  tapering  ivory  haft,  made  thin  at  the  end, 
for  raising  the  bark  of  the  stock.  For  tyings,  use  bass 
strings  from  Russia  mats,  which  should  be  soaked  in  water 
to  make  them  more  pliable.  The  height  of  the  stock  or 
stem  at  which  the  bud  is  to  be  inserted,  is  to  be  determined 
by  the  intended  destination  of  the  tree  (as  it  may  be  pro- 
perly called).  Choose  a  smooth  part  of  the  stem,  from  one 
to  three  years  old.  Having  marked  the  place,  prune  away 
all  the  lateral  shoots  about  and  underneath  it.  With  the 
knife  directed  horizontally,  make  an  incision  about  half  an 
inch  long  in  the  bark  of  the  stock,  cutting  to  the  wood,  but 
not  deeper ;  then  applying  the  point  of  the  knife  to  the 
middle  of  this  line,  make  a  perpendicular  incision  under 
the  first,  extending  from  it  between  one  and  two  inches. 


June  and  July.~]        OF  BUDDING,  &c.  115 

Having  a  healthy  shoot  of  the  growth  of  this  year  pro- 
vided of  the  kind  that  is  desired,  begin  at  the  lower  end 
of  this  shoot,  cut  away  all  the  leaves,  leaving  the  footstalk 
of  each.  Being  fixed  on  a  promising  bud,  insert  the  knife 
about  half  an  inch  above  the  eye,  slanting  it  downward, 
and  about  half  through  the  shoot.  Draw  it  out  about  an 
inch  below  the  eye,  so  as  to  bring  away  the  bud  unimpaired 
with  the  bark,  and  part  of  the  wood  adhering  to  it;  the 
wood  now  must  be  carefully  detached  from  the  bark.  To 
do  this,  insert  the  point  of  the  knife  between  the  bark  and 
wood  at  one  end,  and,  holding  the  bark  tenderly,  strip  off 
the  woody  part,  which  will  readily  part  from  the  bark,  if 
the  shoot  from  which  the  piece  is  taken  has  been  properly 
imbued  with  sap.*  Look  at  the  inner  rind  of  the  sepa- 
rated bark,  to  see  if  that  be  entire :  if  there  be  a  hole  in  it, 
the  eye  of  the  bud  has  been  pulled  away  with  the  wood, 
rendering  the  bud  useless,  which  throw  away  ;  if  there  be 
no  hole,  return  to  the  stock,  and  with  the  haft  of  the  knife 
gently  raise  the  bark  on  each  side  of  the  perpendicular 
incision,  opening  the  lips  wide  enough  to  admit  the  pre- 
pared slip  with  the  eye.  If  the  slip  is  longer  than  the 
upright  incision  in  the  stock,  reduce  the  largest  end.  Stock 
and  bud  being  ready,  keep  the  latter  in  its  natural  position ; 
introduce  it  between  the  bark  and  wood  of  the  stock,  push- 
ing it  gently  downward  until  it  reaches  the  bottom  of  the 
perpendicular  incision.  Let  the  eye  of  the  bud  project 
through  the  centre  of  the  lips ;  lay  the  slip  with  the  bud 
as  smooth  as  possible,  and  press  down  the  raised  bark  of 
the  stock.  The  bud  being  deposited,  bind  that  part  of  the 
stock  moderately  tight  with  bass,  beginning  a  little  below 
the  incision,  proceeding  upward  so  as  to  keep  the  eye  un- 
covered, finishing  above  the  incision.  In  a  month  after 
the  operation,  examine  whether  the  bud  has  united  with 
the  stock.  If  it  has  succeeded,  the  bud  will  be  full  and 
fresh ;  if  not,  it  will  be  brown  and  contracted.  When  it 
has  taken,  untie  the  bandage,  that  the  bud  may  swell,  and 
in  a  few  days  afterwards  cut  the  head  of  the  stock  off'about 

*  We  once  budded  three  eyes  of  the  white  moss  rose,  after  they 
had,  by  mistake,  been  carried  in  the  pocket  of  a  coat  three  days. 
The  shoot  was  soaked  six  hours  in  water,  and  two  of  the  buds 
grew.  From  this  we  infer  that  shoots,  if  properly  wrapped  up, 
may  be  carried  very  great  distances,  and  grow  successfully. 

• 


116  EVERGREEN  HEDGES.  [JlugltSt. 

six  inches  above  the  inoculation,  and  prevent  all  shoots 
from  growing  by  pinching  them  off.  This  will  forward  the 
bud,  which  will  push  and  ripen  wood  this  season ;  but  it 
must  be  carefully  tied  as  it  grows  to  the  remaining  head  of 
the  stock.  Some  do  not  head  down  the  stock  until  the  fol- 
lowing spring,  thereby  not  encouraging  the  bud  to  grow, 
which,  if  winter  sets  in  early,  is  the  safest  method. 


OF  WATERING. 

If  the  season  be  dry,  look  over  the  lately  planted  shrubs, 
and  give  them  frequent  copious  waterings ;  and  a  few  of 
the  finest  annuals  that  are  wanted  to  flower  perfectly 
should  be  attended  to.  We  do  confess  that  we  used  to  be 
advocates  for  giving  plenty  of  water  to  the  Dahlia,  but  the 
severe  drought  of  1838  put  our  science  to  the  test,  and  the 
result  was,  that  of  about  one  hundred  plants  of  our  most 
choice  kinds,  which  we  regularly  watered  three  times  a 
week,  for  nine  weeks,  during  which  period  we  had  not  a 
drop  of  rain,  the  plants  grew  luxuriantly,  but  many  of 
them  never  produced  a  perfect  bloom ;  and  those  that  had 
no  attention  whatever  paid  to  them,  except  a  little  manure 
or  litter  laid  on  the  surface  over  the  roots,  flowered  almost 
as  well  as  in  our  more  moist  seasons.  Hence  we  infer  that 
an  occasional  watering  may  be  of  service,  but  continued  and 
repeated  artificial  waterings  are  injurious. 


AUGUST. 


EVERGREEN  HEDGES. 

THESE  always  make  two  growths  in  the  season,  and  the 
best  time  to  perform  the  operation  of  clipping  or  dressing 
them  is  before  the  plants  begin  their  second  growth. 
Choose,  if  possible,  dull  and  cloudy  days,  as  in  such  wea- 
ther they  will  not  be  so  liable  to  get  brown  or  bruised  by 


JlugitSt.~]  BULBOUS  ROOTS.  1 17 

shearing.  The  general  practice  in  forming  these  is  to 
have  the  sides  even  and  the  top  level,  forming  a  right  angle 
on  each  side.  However  neat  in  appearance  this  may  be 
considered,  it  certainly  is  stiff  and  formal.  We  never  ap- 
prove of  clipping  where  it  can  be  avoided,  and,  when 
adopted,  nature  ought  to  be  imitated.  Therefore,  have  all 
hedges  and  edgings  tapering  toward  the  top. 


CARNATIONS  AND  PINKS, 

If  laid  about  the  end  of  June,  and  have  been  properly 
attended,  will,  by  the  end  of  this  month,  be  well  rotted  and 
fit  for  transplanting.  Clear  away  the  earth  lightly,  and 
cut  them  clean  off  from  the  parent  plant,  nearer  the  stool 
than  the  original  slit.  Raise  them  neatly  out  of  the  earth, 
with  as  many  of  the  root-fibres  as  possible ;  cut  off  the 
naked  part  of  the  stem  close  to  the  fibrous  roots,  and  trim 
away  the  strangling  leaves.  Plant  the  finest  sorts  in  four- 
inch  pots,  and  those  more  common,  three  plants  in  five-inch 
pots,  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  which  can  be  separated  in 
spring  to  plant  in  the  garden.  Any  of  the  principal  stools 
should  be  (if  in  the  ground)  lifted  and  put  into  seven-inch 
pots  to  be  preserved :  the  others  may  be  allowed  to  stand 
through  the  winter,  covering  them  with  a  few  dry  leaves. 
Keep  them  in  the  shade  a  few  weeks,  when  they  may  be 
fully  exposed.  Give  gentle  and  frequent  sprinklings  of 
water  until  they  have  taken  fresh  root ;  or,  if  in  want  of 
pots,  mark  out  a  bed  that  can  be  covered  with  a  frame,  pre- 
paring the  soil  therein  properly.  Plant  them  from  four  to 
six  inches  apart.  .Shade  them  from  the  sun  until  they 
begin  to  grow,  giving  sprinklings  of  water  over  the  foliage 
every  evening. 


BULBOUS  ROOTS. 

Look  over  the  bulbs  that  are  out  of  the  ground,  and  exa- 
mine those  that  require  planting.  Of  Fritillaria  there  are 
about  twenty  species,  but  few  of  them  generally  cultivated, 
except  F,  imperialis,  Crown  Imperial,  and  F.  persica.  Of 
the  former  there  are  many  very  splendid  varieties,  such  as 


118  SOWING  SEEDS  OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS.         [August. 

Crown  upon  crown,  Lutea  Maxima,  Striped  leaved,  Double 
flowered,  &c.  These  will  require  planting,  and  ought  not 
to  be  lifted  oftener  than  every  third  year.  They  require  a 
deep,  rich,  loamy  soil,  and,  if  in  beds,  plant  them  from  five 
to  seven  inches  deep,  and  one  foot  apart.  They  will  grow 
under  the  shade  of  trees,  or  in  any  situation  where  the  soil 
is  adapted  for  them.  No  imbricated  or  scaly  bulb  ought  to 
be  retained  long  out  of  the  ground.  When  any  of  these 
are  lifted,  and  the  young  bulbs  taken  off,  they  should  be 
planted  at  once.  See  particularly,  on  bulbous  roots  in 
general,  next  month. 


SOWING  SEEDS  OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS. 

Where  any  seeds  of  these  are  saved,  with  the  intention 
of  sowing,  let  it  be  done  this  month.  Procure  boxes  about 
seven  inches  deep,  and,  in  size,  proportioned  to  the  quan- 
tity to  be  sown.  Put  five  inches  of  light  sandy  soil  in  the 
box,  level  it  smoothly,  and  sow  the  seeds  separately  and 
thickly;  cover  with  half  an  inch  of  light  sandy  loam,  with 
a  portion  of  earth  from  the  woods.  Keep  the  box  or  boxes 
in  a  sheltered  situation,  giving  frequent  sprinklings  of 
water,  to  keep  the  earth  damp,  which  must  be  protected 
with  a  frame,  or  covered  with  leaves  during  winter.  The 
plants  will  appear  in  the  spring,  and  must  be  watered  and 
kept  in  the  shade  :  when  the  leaves  decay  in  June,  put  one 
inch  more  soil  upon  them,  and  the  second  year  they  can 
be  planted  with  the  small  off-sets  in  the  garden,  and  treated 
as  other  bulbs.  They  must  be  carefully  marked  every 
year.  Tulips  require  several  years  of  trial  before  their 
qualities  are  known  ;  and  a  poor  soil  is  best  suited  to  pro- 
duce their  characters  after  the  first  bloom. 


September,]  PREPARE  BEDS,  &c.  1 19  •• 


SEPTEMBER. 


OF  DAHLIAS. 

SEE  that  all  these  plants  are  supported  with  proper 
stakes,  rods,  &c.,  that  the  wind  may  have  no  effect  in 
breaking  down  or  otherwise  destroying  the  flower  stems. 
Strictly  observe  their  respective  heights  and  colours,  that 
they  may  be  duly  disposed  and  interspersed  next  year,  if 
not  done  so  this.  Attend  particularly  to  the  merits  of  those 
grown  from  seed. 


GENERAL  CARE  OF  PLANTS  IN  POTS. 

All  the  flowers  that  are  in  pots,  and  intended  to  be  kept 
in  frames  during  winter  should  have  a  top-dressing  and  a 
general  preparation  for  their  winter  quarters,  by  tying  up, 
&c.  The  carnation  and  pink  layers  that  were  lifted  and 
potted  last  month,  must  be  brought  from  the  shade  as  soon 
as  they  begin  to  grow,  and  those  that  are  not  lifted,  have 
them  done  forthwith,  that  they  may  be  rooted  afresh  before 
the  frost  sets  in.  All  Wall-flowers  and  Stocks  should  be 
lifted  about  the  end  of  this  month,  and  planted  in  five  to 
seven  inch  pots,  and  treated  as  directed  for  carnation  layers 
last  month,  until  they  begin  to  grow,  when  they  must  be 
fully  exposed. 


PREPARE  BEDS  AND  BORDERS  FOR  BULBOUS  ROOTS. 

Bulbous  roots  of  every  character  delight  in  deep  free 
soil;  consequently,  wherever  they  are  desired  to  be  planted, 
due  attention  must  be  paid  to  put  the  soil  in  proper  order, 
to  have  them  in  perfection.  Where  there  is  a  quantity 
intended  to  be  planted,  to  have  them  in  beds  is  the  general 
and  preferable  method.  These  ought  to  be  dug  from 
eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  deep,  at  the  bottom  of  which 
place  three  or  four  inches  of  decayed  manure.  Where 


130  SOWING  AND  SAVING  SEED.        [ September. 

the  soil  is  poor  it  should  be  enriched  with  well  decomposed 
manure^and  earth  from  the  woods,  incorporating  both  well 
with  the  soil,  breaking  it  all  fine.  This  being  done,  allow 
it  to  stand  until  the  middle  of  next  month,  which  see  for 
farther  directions. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

Tie  up  carefully  all  the  Chrysanthemums,  Tuberoses, 
&c.  Clear  away  the  stems  or  haulm  of  any  decayed 
annuals  or  herbaceous  plants,  that  nothing  unsightly  may 
appear.  Propagate  the  Pansy  by  layers,  &c.  See  page 
94. 


SOWING  AND  SAVING  SEEDS. 

About  the  end  of  this  month  or  beginning  of  next  is  an 
advisable  period  to  sow  seed  of  Delphinium  Jljdtis  flore 
pleno,  or  Double  Rocket  Larkspur.  This  plant  does  not 
flower  in  perfection  unless  sown  in  autumn,  and  grown  a 
little  above  ground  before  winter;  when  a  few  leaves  can 
be  lightly  thrown  among  them,  but  not  to  cover  them  en- 
tirely, or  a  few  branches  thickly  laid  on  will  answer  as 
well.  There  are  several  other  annuals  that  bloom  more 
early  and  much  finer  by  being  sown  about  this  period : 
such  as  Gilia,  Coreopsis,  Centaurea,  Cldrkia,  Collinsia, 
&c.  Be  attentive  in  collecting  and  saving  all  kinds  of 
seeds,  and  have  them  correctly  named,  with  the  year  in 
which  they  were  grown. 

The  finer  kinds  of  Pansy  seeds  that  may  have  been  col- 
lected during  the  season,  should  now  be  sown  in  a  rich, 
free,  loamy  soil,  and  in  a  situation  where  they  can  be 
covered  during  winter  with  a  temporary  frame  of  boards : 
although  they  are  perfectly  hardy,  yet  they  will  bloom  ear- 
lier and  more  superb  in  the  spring  by  having  a  slight  pro- 
tection. 


October.']  OF  PLANTING,  &c.  121 


OCTOBER. 


OF  PLANTING  VARIOUS  BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS 
ROOTS. ' 

FROM  the  first  of  October  to  the  middle  of  November 
is  the  best  period  for  a  general  planting  of  bulbs,  corns, 
and  tubers,  which,,  if  the  ground  has  been  prepared,  as 
formerly  directed,  will  now  be  in  readiness.  We  will 
give  the  names  and  descriptions  of  a  few  of  the  leading 
sorts. 

Jinemone  hortetisis.  The  cultivation  of  this  tuber  has 
been  attended  with  less  satisfaction  than  any  other  floral 
plant  that  has  been  introduced  into  this  country.  The 
general  failure  may,  in  part,  be  attributed  to  the  very  infe- 
rior roots  annually  sent  from  Holland,  which  rarely  arrive 
in  good  order,  and  those  that  do  grow,  are  very  discourag- 
ing, never  making  a  tuber  sufficient  for  another  year's 
planting.  Several  hundred  varieties  are  cultivated  in 
England  with  great  care  and  complete  success.  They  are 
planted  in  a  deep  rich  soil,  using  a  considerable  portion  of 
cow  manure  and  decomposed  leaves,  covering  the  crowns 
of  the  roots  about  two  inches.  The  tubes  are  flat,  but  the 
eye  from  whence  the  flower-stem  arises  is  apparent  on  one 
of  th.e  sides,  which  must  be  laid  uppermost.  During  the 
severity  of  winter,  they  should  be  protected  by  a  frame, 
and  have  a  sprinkling  of  very  dry  leaves  strewn  among 
them. 

Crocits.  There  are  upwards  of  one  hundred  varieties 
of  this  vernal  flower  in  cultivation,  attended  with  universal 
success.  They  delight  in  rich  soils,  and  may  either  be 
planted  in  beds  or  rows,  at  least  two  inches  deep,  and  six 
inches  from  row  to  row — they  seldom  require  removal ; 
every  three  or  four  years  will  be  sufficient.  They  can  be 
purchased  at  from  seventy-five  cents  to  two  dollars  per 
hundred,  according  to  quality.  When  they  are  done 
blooming,  the  foliage  should  riot  be  removed  till  perfectly 
decayed. 

Fritillaria,  or  Crown  Imperial.     See  last  month. 
11 


122  JONQUILS — LILIUM.  [October. 

Hyacinths.  The  ground  that  was  prepared  for  these 
last  month,  should  all  be  divided  into  beds  four  feet  wide, 
leaving  between  each  alleys  of  twenty  inches.  Skim  off 
four  or  five  inches  of  the  surface  of  the  former  into  the  lat- 
ter, level  the  bed  smoothly  with  the  rake,  and  mark  it  off 
in  rows  eight  inches  apart.  Plant  the  roots  in  the  row 
eight  inches  asunder.  Thus  they  will  be  in  squares,  and 
by  planting  the  different  colours,  alternately,  the  bed  will 
be  beautifully  diversified.  Cover  each  bulb  with  sand, 
when  it  can  be  procured.  Put  about  four  inches  of  earth 
over  the  crowns,  which  will  make  the  beds  from  two  to 
three  inches  higher  than  the  alleys.  The  beds,  before  and 
after  planting,  should  be  gently  rounded  from  the  middle 
to  each  side,  to  let  the  rain  pass  off.  Finish  all  by  raking 
evenly,  straighten  the  edgings  with  the  line,  and  clear  out 
the  alleys  or  pathways. 

We  have  grown  Hyacinths  in  great  perfection — when, 
in  addition  to  the  above,  we  covered  them  with  two  to  three 
inches  of  cow  manure.  The  Dutch  florists  name  nearly 
two  thousand  varieties  of  this  flower,  and  have  large  fields 
devoted  to  their  culture.  When  the  double  varieties  were 
first  brought  into  notice,  they  sold  at  from  one  to  two  thou- 
sand guilders  a  root,  (about  from  four  to  eight  hundred 
dollars.)  The  finer  kinds  can  be  purchased  at  from  two 
to  four  dollars  per  dozen. 

Iris,  or  Fleur  de  luce.  The  English  and  Parisian  irises 
are  coming  into  repute  as  showy  garden  flowers.  They  will 
grow  in  any  well  prepared  soil,  and  require  to  be  planted 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  tulip. 

Jonquils.  Double  and  single.  Plant  these  in  the  same 
soil  as  Tulips,  six  inches  apart,  and  cover  three  inches 
deep.  They  do  not  flower  so  well  the  first  year  as  in  the 
second  and  third,  therefore  should  only  be  lifted  every  third 
year. 

Lilium.  The  family  of  Lilies  are  all  splendid,  very  inte- 
resting, and  easy  of  culture,  requiring  merely  a  good  deep 
loamy  soil — no  wise  inclined  to  moisture.  They  are  all 
hardy,  except  L.  japonicum  and  L.  longi/lorum,  which 
we  lift  in  November,  and  again  plant  them  about  the  first 
of  March,  keeping  them  through  the  winter  in  dry  sand, 
in  a  cellar  free  from  frost.  The  hardy  kinds,  deserving 
most  attention,  are  L.  Cdndidum,  (the  double  variety  of  it 


October."]  P^EONIAS.  133 

is  aot  worth  growing,)  L.  Chalcedonicum,  and  its  varie- 
ties, L.  Tignnum.  L.  Concolor  and  L.  Mdrtagon;  these, 
with  the  species  indigenous  to  this  country,  are  all  very 
beautiful.  They  should  be  planted  from  three  to  five 
inches  deep,  according  to  the  size  of  the  bulb,  and  need 
not  be  taken  up  oftener  than  once  in  every  three  or  four 
years.  None  of  the  species  can  be  transplanted  after  they 
have  grown,  without  injuring  their  flowering. 

Narcissus  require  treatment  similar  to  the  Lily,  except 
the  soil,  which  must  be  richer,  and  even  then  they  do  not 
bloom  so  finely  in  a  few  years  as  they  do  when  first  im- 
ported ;  but  they  are  cheap,  and  can  annually  be  procured. 

Psebnias  are  all  magnificent  in  flower,  and,  for  display,  are 

not  surpassed  by  any  spring  blooming  plant ;  and 

we  do  cheerfully  urge  our  readers  to  cultivate  the 

choice  sorts,  which  can  scarcely  be  said  to  have  a 

rival.     Such  are — 

P.  Moutdn  Bdnksii,  common  double  blush  tree  Pseonia. 
P.  Moutdn  papaverdcea,  single  white  tree  Paeonia,  with 

purple  centre. 

P.  Moutdn  rosea,  large  rose,  semi-double  tree  Paeonia. 
P.   Moutdn    odordta,   sweet-scented,   rose-coloured    tree 

Paeonia. 

P.  Moutdn  albida  plena,  double  white  tree  Paeonia. 
P.  edulis  allifldra,  single  white  herbaceous  Paeonia. 
P.  edulis  whitleji,  superb  double  white  herbaceous  Pee- 

onia. 
P.  edulis  Hiimei,  very  large  double  rose  herbaceous  Pffi- 

onia. 
P.  edulis frd grans,  double  red,  sweet-scented  herbaceous 

Paeonia. 
P.  edulis  Reevesiana,  Chinese  double  crimson  herbaceous 

Paeonia. 

P.  qfficindlis  rubra,  common  double  herbaceous  Paeonia. 
P.  officindlis  atropurpurea,  very  dark  crimson  herbaceous 

Paeonia. 
P.  officindlis  dlbicans,  changeable   white  rose,  or  blush 

herbaceous  Paeonia. 

There  are  several  other  splendid  double  varieties  in  some 
rare  collections  of  Europe,  which  have  not  yet  made  their 


1£4  TULIPS.  [October. 

appearance  in  general  culture.  There  are  also  a  few  very 
choice  single  kinds'  that  are  desirable  for  growing  to  raise 
new  sorts  from ;  for  it  is  from  the  single  species  that  the 
Chinese  have  been  so  successful  in  procuring  the  magnificent 
double  varieties,  which  are  so  anxiously  and  perseveringly 
sought  for.  The  seeds  mature  well  in  this  country,  and 
should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  ;  they  will  vegetate  the  fol- 
lowing spring,  and  in  three  years  may  be  expected  to  bloom. 
The  Paeony  will  grow  in  any  rich  loamy  soil,  which  should 
be  at  least  fifteen  inches  deep.  An  eastern  situation  or 
aspect  is  best  adapted  for  them  in  this  latitude ;  but  in  the 
more  southern  states,  they  will  display  their  flowers  better 
on  a  northern  aspect,  or  where  they  will  be  shaded  from 
the  sun,  but  not  under  the  dripping  of  trees.  The  most 
suitable  time  for  planting  them  is  in  September,  October, 
or  November.  Spring-planted  roots  never  succeed  well  the 
first  year.  Pseony  moutan  and  its  varieties  are  all  of  a 
shrubby  nature,  and  will  grow  into  large  bushes,  produc- 
ing from  fifty  to  one  hundred  blooms  of  not  less  than  fifteen 
inches  in  circumference ;  they  can  be  propagated  by  divi- 
sion of  the  root,  or  by  layers. 

Tulips.  As  this  flower  will  soon  be  a  decided  favourite 
over  this  mighty  country,  we  will  give  a  minute  descrip- 
tion of  the  soil  most  genial  to  it,  at  the  same  time  re- 
marking that  it  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil  or  situation, 
though  less  perfect.  Many  of  the  kinds  are  of  the  most 
splendid  colours  and  strong  in  growth,  frequently  growing 
over  three  feet  in  height,  with  cups  sufficiently  large  to 
satisfy  the  greatest  Bacchus.  AH  writers  agree  that  Tulip 
beds  should  be  "  four  feet  wide ;"  though  I  think  three 
and  a  half  will  be  found  more  convenient,  and,  in  length, 
according  to  the  number  of  roots  to  be  planted.  The  soil 
should  consist  of  good  fresh  loam,  mixed  with  a  small  por- 
tion of  weh!  rotted  stable  manure,  at  least  two  years  old. 
The  whole  should  be  incorporated  together  four  months 
previous  to  using.  The  common  soil  should  be  taken  out 
sixteen  inches  deep,  and  filled  with  the  above  compost. 
Raise  the  beds  not  less  than  three  inches  above  the  paths 
at  the  outside,  and  about  six  or  eight  inches  in  the  middle ; 
this  convexity  will  assist  in  throwing  ofFthe  water  in  times 
of  heavy  and  continued  rains.  The  bed  thus  formed,  plant 
the  bulbs  in  rows,  lengthwise  on  the  bed,  about  six  inches 


October."]        PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING.  125 

from  bulb  to  bulb,  and  seven  inches  from  row  to  row.  The 
bed  may  be  marked  out  by  straining  a  line  very  tight, 
lengthwise  on  the  bed,  and  beating  it  with  the  back  of  the 
spade,  leaving  a  lined  groove  along  the  ground.  Then, 
'  with  a  lath  four  feet  long,  let  the  bed  be  marked  across  at 
six  inches  distance,  so  as  to  leave  distinct  impressions  at 
each  crossing  of  the  ground  lines ;  for  these  will  form  the 
spots  where  the  bulbs  are  to  be  planted,  by  means  of  a 
dibber,  made  larger  than  the  largest  bulb,  and  flattened  at 
the  end.  The  holes  are  to  be  made  four  inches  deep,  and 
about  half  an  inch  of  sharp  sand  ought  to  be  dropped  in 
each.  The  centre  line  ought  to  be  planted  with  the  tallest 
kinds,  and  the  outside  of  the  bed  with  the  lowest.  In  se- 
vere frosts  they  should  be  protected  by  boards  or  branches. 
Tulips  have  ever  been  held  in  the  highest  estimation.  As 
early  as  1637  history  records  one  hundred  and  twenty 
Tulips  being  sold  at  public  auction  for  no  less  a  sum  than 
nine  thousand  guilders,  equal  to  thirty-six  hundred  dollars ; 
and,  in  England,  at  the  present  day,  a  good  collection  is 
valued  at  five  thousand  dollars.  Florists  generally  divide 
them  into  three  classes,  viz. :  first,  Bybloemens,  such  as 
have  a  white  ground,  variegated  with  purple,  as  Bienfait 
or  Washington,  &c. ;  secondly,  Bizarres,  having  a  yellow 
ground,  variegated  with  scarlet,  purple,  rose,  or  velvet,  as 
Trafalgar,  Due  de  Savoie,  &c. ;  and,  thirdly,  Roses  with 
white  ground,  variegated  with  rose,  scarlet,  or  crimson,  as 
La  Tcndresse,  Rose  mignonne,  &c. 

The  superb  kinds  are  often  very  expensive ;  even  fifty 
pounds  sterling  is  frequently  given  for  a  single  bulb ; 
and  we  doubt  much  if  these  high-priced  kinds  are  finer 
than  Washington,  Milo,  or  Trafalgar,  which,  with  many 
others,  can  be  procured  for  less  than  one  dollar  each. 


PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING. 

This  is  a  very  proper  period  to  plant  the  beautiful  and 
early  flowering  Pynisjap6nica,no\v  called  Cydoniajapo- 
nica.  The  blossoms  are  of  a  rich  scarlet  colour.  It  is  the 
earliest  flowering  shrub  of  the  garden,  and  deciduous, 
though  said  by  some  to  be  "  an  evergreen."  The  plant  is 
bushy,  and  well  adapted  for  single  plants  in  grass  plats,  or 
11* 


126  PLANTING  EVERGREENS.  \_Octobtr. 

forming  low  ornamental  hedges.  There  is  likewise  C.  j. 
alba,  a  fine  blush  variety  of  the  same  habit,  and  both  are 
of  the  hardiest  nature. 

Double  Primroses,  Polyanthus,  Daisies,  &c.  Any  of 
these  that  were  planted  in  shaded  situations  in  spring,  and 
have  been  preserved  through  the  summer,  should  have  for 
their  farther  protection  a  bed  well  sheltered  from  the  north- 
west, in  which  they  should  be  planted  four  inches  apart. 
Give  them  a  few  sprinklings  of  water  in  the  morning,  and 
have  a  temporary  frame  of  rough  boards  put  together  to 
place  over  them  during  the  severity  of  winter.  The  frame 
may  be  covered  with  the  same  in  place  of  glass,  which 
must  be  kept  over  them  while  they  are  in  a  frozen  state. 

Any  other  plants  that  are  in  the  ground,  which  are  in- 
tended to  be  protected  with  frames  through  the  winter, 
ought  to  be  immediately  lifted  and  potted,  and  treated  as 
directed  for  all  new-potted  plants. 


GRASS  AND  GRAVEL  WALKS. 

The  former  should  be  trimly  cut  and  well  rolled  this 
month,  that  they  may  appear  neat  all  winter.  Never  allow 
decayed  leaves  to  lie  any  time  upon  them,  as  they  are  apt 
to  rot  out  the  grass.  The  latter  should  be  divested  of  every 
weed,  and  receive  a  firm  rolling.  Clear  them  at  all  times 
of  leaves  and  other  litter.  These,  if  on  a  declivity,  and 
have  not  a  firm  substantial  bottom,  will  be  subject  to  be  cut 
up  with  every  heavy  rain.  A  break  should  be  put  in 
every  twenty,  forty,  or  eighty  feet  to  throw  ofF  the  water. 
A  strong  plank  will  answer  perfectly  well,  but  in  such 
situations  we  would  prefer  grass  walks. 


PLANTING  EVERGREENS. 

This  month  is  the  best  period  in  autumn  to  plant  these 
shrubs ;  and  where  there  is  a  great  extent  to  be  planted,  it 
would  be  advisable  to  do  a  part  of  it  now ;  but  we  give  the 
preference  to  April,  which  see  for  directions. 


November.']  DAHLIAS.  127 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

When  the  plantings  of  hulbs,  &c.,  are  finished,  every 
part  of  the  garden  should  have  a  thorough  cleaning.  All 
annual  flowers  will  have  passed  the  season  of  their  beauty ; 
therefore,  remove  the  decayed  flower  stems  or  haulm,  and 
trim  off  the  borders.  Dig  all  vacant  ground,  especially 
that  intended  to  be  planted  with  shrubs  in  the  ensuing 
spring,  which  ought  to  be  dug  from  one  to  two  feet  deep. 


NOVEMBER. 


DAHLIAS. 

IT  is  not  advisable  to  delay  lifting  the  roots  of  the  Dahlia 
after  the  first  of  the  month,  as  frequently  severe  frosts 
set  in  about  this  period,  and  would  totally  destroy  them. 
Choose  a  dry  day  for  the  purpose,  and  with  a  spade  care- 
fully lift  every  root,  divesting  it  of  any  earth  that  may  ad- 
here thereto,  but  not  to  shake  it  off,  as  thereby  the  neck  of 
the  tubers  would  be  bruised,  and  probably  entirely  destroy 
the  vitality  of  the  plant  for  the  coming  season.  With  us, 
the  frost  generally  destroys  the  foliage  and  stems  of  the 
plants  from  about  the  middle  of  October  to  the  beginning 
of  the  present  month.  The  stems  should  then  be  cut  to 
within  a  few  inches  of  the  ground:  when  the  roots  should 
be  lifted  directly  thereafter,  and  the  labels  properly  secured 
to  them  with  metallic  wire.  Many  opinions  are  given  for 
the  best  method  of  securing  them  during  winter  from 
the  effects  of  frost,  which  is  their  certain  destruction.  In 
this  country,  a  dry  close  cellar,  that  will  retain  a  tempe- 
rature of  not  less  than  thirty-five  degrees,  and  not  over 
forty-five,  will  be  the  most  proper  place :  if  the  tubers  are 
small,  they  should  be  covered  with  dry  sand  or  earth.  The 
method  we  have  adopted  with  our  finest  kinds,  which  has 
resulted  in  complete  success,  is  to  lay  dry  boards  on  the 


128       PRIMROSES,  POLYANTHUS,  AND  DAISIES.  [November. 

cellar-floor,  and  place  the  roots  closely  thereon,  covering 
them  to  the  stem  with  dry  sand,  laying  mats  over  all :  in 
this  manner  they  preserve  till  spring  in  the  most  perfect 
order.  They  can  also  be  kept  in  a  cool  green-house ;  but 
must  be  protected  from  drippings  of  water  falling  upon 
them. 


TUBEROSES,  TIGRIUIAS  AND  AMARYLLIS. 

These  tubers  and  bulbs,  as  soon  as  the  frost  has  partly 
injured  the  foliage,  should  be  taken  up,  and  dried  tho- 
roughly in  the  sun,  taking  care,  at  all  times,  to  keep  them 
clear  from  frost.  When  they  are  dry,  divest  them  of  their 
foliage  and  fibres,  and  pack  them  in  boxes  with  dry  sand 
or  moss.  Store  these  away  for  the  winter,  either  in  a 
room  or  a  dry  cellar,  where  they  will,  at  all  times,  be  ex- 
empt from  frost,  the  least  touch  of  which  would  destroy 
them.  AVe  have  kept  them  completely  secure  in  the 
cellar. 


ERYTHRINAS. 

Where  there  any  plants  of  E.  herbacea,  E.  laitrifolia, 
and  E.  crisfa-gdlla,  which  are  intended  to  be  lifted,  they 
should  be  carefully  done  and  preserved  in  half  dry  earth, 
and  kept  beside  the  Dahlias.  They  are  magnificent  orna- 
ments in  the  flower  garden. 


PRIMROSES,  POLYANTHUS  AND  DAISIES, 

That  were  planted  in  a  sheltered  spot,  as  directed  last 
month,  should  have  a  frame  placed  over  them,  and  their 
covering  in  readiness  for  the  approach  of  winter;  giving 
the  plants  a  light  covering  of  leaves,  which  will  preserve 
their  foliage  from  the  effects  of  frost. 


November.']        CHOICE  CARNATIONS,  &c.  129 


CHOICE  CARNATIONS,  PINKS,  PANSIES  AND  AURI- 
CULAS, 

That  are  in  pots,  should  be  placed  in  the  frame  intended 
for  their  abode  during  winter.  If  the  pots  are  plunged  to 
the  rims  in  dry  leaves  or  saw-dust,  it  will  greatly  protect 
their  roots  from  the  severe  effects  of  frost.  Where  glass 
is  used  for  these  frames,  they  should  have  besides  a  cover- 
ing of  boards  or  straw  mats  ;  those  that  are  in  beds  may  be 
covered  as  above  directed  for  Primroses,  &c. 

They  ought  not  to  be  uncovered  while  in  a  frozen  state. 
It  is  not  altogether  the  intensity  of  cold  that  destroys  these 
plants  so  much  as  the  alternate  thawing  and  freezing. 

All  half  hardy  plants,  such  as  Wall-JJower  German 
stocks,  Sweet-bay,  tender  roses,  with  several  others,  should 
be  protected  as  above  directed  for  Carnations.  Earth  or 
tan  should  be  put  round  the  outside  of  these  frames,  which 
will  be  a  partial  shelter  from  the  changing  state  of  the  atmo- 
sphere. Oak  leaves  answer  the  purpose  very  well,  but 
they  are  a  harbour  for  all  kinds  of  vermin,  especially  rats 
and  mice,  which  would  destroy  every  thing.  It  may  be 
useful  to  say  a  few  words  on  the  nature  of  tan  or  tanner's 
bark.  Many  suppose  that  the  smallest  quantity  will  pro- 
duce heat.  If  three  or  four  cart  loads  of  it  are  put  into 
one  heap,  and  protected  from  the  rain,  it  will  ferment;  and 
when  the  first  fermentation  is  abated,  by  mixing  it  with 
leaves,  a  substantial  hot-bed  may  be  made,  or  put  it  by  itself 
into  a  pit ;  and,  when  there  is  no  pit,  boards  may  be  sub- 
stituted to  keep  it  together :  either  of  these  methods  will 
produce  a  lasting  heat.  But  in  small  quantities,  and  ex- 
posed to  rain,  &c.,  no  heat  will  be  produced,  but  rather  the 
contrary.  It  is  excellent,  when  dry,  in  keeping  out  frost 
from  any  plants  ;  being  a  body  not  easily  penetrated,  simi- 
lar to  dry  sand,  saw-dust,  or  dry  leaves.  Frequently  the 
same  opinion  is  held  in  regard  to  stable  manure,  small  por- 
tions of  which  will  never  produce  heat. 


130  OF  PLANTING,  &c.  [November, 


OF  PROTECTING  PLANTS  IN  THE  GARDEN. 

During  this  or  next  month,  according  to  the  state  of  the 
season,  protect  all  the  plants  that  are  in  the  ground,  which 
are  not  completely  hardy.  The  coverings  may  be  straw, 
Russia  mats,  canvas,  boxes  or  barrels.  The  two  latter  must 
be  perforated  in  the  top,  to  let  the  damp  air  pass  off,  or  the 
plant  would  become  musty  and  decay.  Those  covered 
with  straw  or  mats  should  have  small  stakes  placed  round 
the  plants,  and  covering  tied  thereto,  and  remain  so  until 
the  month  of  March  or  first  of  April.  Herbaceous  plants 
that  are  tender,  may  be  covered  with  three  or  four  inches 
of  tan,  saw-dust,  or  half  decayed  leaves,  which  will  tend 
greatly  to  preserve  their  roots.  These  coverings  must  be 
carefully  removed  on  the  first  opening  of  spring.  The 
shrubs  that  are  otherwise  covered  would  be  greatly  bene- 
fited by  having  their  roots  protected  in  a  similar  manner, 
as  directed  for  herbaceous  plants. 


PROTECTION  OF  SEEDLING  BULBS. 

If  any  seeds  of  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  or  Fritillara,  were 
sown  in  pots  or  boxes,  let  them  be  removed  to  a  dry,  shel- 
tered situation,  and  plunged  level  with  the  ground ;  or  fill 
the  spaces  between  them  with  dry  leaves  or  tanner's  bark, 
and  cover  the  whole  with  new-fallen  leaves,  laying  over 
all  a  few  boards  to  prevent  the  wind  blowing  them  off. 
These  form  better  coverings  than  straw  or  haulm,  which  is 
liable  to  become  musty,  and  communicate  the  effect  to  the 
roots.  The  above  covering  is  not  required  until  the  ap- 
proach of  severe  frost. 


OF  PLANTING  DECIDUOUS  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

It  is  not  recommendable  to  make  a  general  planting  of 
these  at  this  period  of  the  year ;  the  success  entirely  de- 
pending on  the  nature  of  the  season  and  the  state  of  the 
soil.  If  any  are  planted,  let  them  be  those  of  the  hardiest 
nature,  and  in  light  and  absorbent  so.'1,  not  subject  to  be 


December.^         GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS.  131 

stagnated  or  over-flooded  during  winter.  When  this  and 
next  month  are  mild,  autumn  plantings  are  very  frequently 
as  sure  as  those  of  the  spring.  But  the  precarious  state 
of  the  season  is  not  to  be  depended  upon,  therefore  avoid 
large  plantings  of  any  kind,  and  more  especially  of  deli- 
cate roses,  the  roots  of  which  are  apt  to  rot  off,  except  they 
have  been  previously  grown  in  pots.  Nothing  can  be  more 
injurious  to  a  plant,  at  this  season  particularly,  than  to  bed 
its  roots  in  mortar,  by  which  the  tender  fibres  either  perish 
or  are  cramped  ever  afterward.  The  soil  at  the  time  of 
planting  should  be  so  friable  as  not  to  adhere  to  the  spade, 
which  is  a  good  rule  in  planting  at  any  season,  or  in  any 
soil. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

Carry  out  of  the  garden  all  decayed  leaves  and  litter  of 
every  description,  cutting  down  any  weeds  that  remain. 
Collect  all  the  stakes  and  rods  that  have  been  supporting 
plants,  tie  them  up  in  bundles  for  the  use  of  next  year,  and 
put  them  under  cover.  Look  over  every  part  of  the  gar- 
den, and  see  that  nothing  has  been  omitted  in  the  way  of 
covering  or  other  protection.  The  sashes  that  are  to  be 
used  on  the  frames  should  be  perfectly  whole,  every  inter- 
stice in  the  glass  puttied,  and  all  ready  for  use  when  occa- 
sion may  require.  Attend  to  all  plants  in  pots,  and  give 
them  gentle  waterings  as  they  stand  in  need;  but  never 
during  the  time  the  soil  is  frozen  about  the  roots. 


DECEMBER. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


HAVING  in  the  preceding  months  under  this  head  given 
details  for  the  protection  of  plants  of  a  delicate  nature,  and 
the  forwarding  of  necessary  work,  only  a  few  remarks  re- 


132  GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS.          [December. 

main  to  be  added.  If  there  is  any  part  therein  described 
omitted,  have  it  done  forthwith :  every  day  increases 
the  danger  of  severe  weather.  If  there  are  doubts  of 
any  plants  or  shrubs  not  standing  without  some  light  co- 
vering, it  is  best  to  err  on  the  side  of  safety.  Valuable 
plants  on  walls,  and  in  danger  of  being  destroyed,  it  is 
advisable  to  be  at  the  expense  of  having  a  frame  made  to 
surround  them,  and  cover  the  same  with  oil-cloth.  The 
frame  thus  covered,  should  be  taken  off  in  mild  weather, 
and  replaced  again  when  necessary,  causing  very  little 
trouble;  and,  if  properly  taken  care  of,  will  last  many 
years.  Coverings  of  any  construction,  and  of  the  same 
material,  would  answer  for  any  part  of  the  garden,  and  are 
the  best  in  our  opinion  that  could  be  adopted. 


THE 


AMERICAN  FLOWER  GARDEN 

DIRECTORY. 


HOT-HOUSE. 


ON  THE  CONSTRUCTION  OF  A  HOT-HOUSE. 

THERE  have  been  many  plans  devised  and  visionary 
projects  offered  to  the  public  as  the  best  for  a  well-regu- 
lated hot-house.  As  we  intend  forming  one  for  practical 
purposes,  we  shall  adopt  a  convenient  size,  have  flues  for 
the  conveyance  of  heat,  and  coal  or  wood  for  fuel. 

Site  and  Aspect.— The  house  should  stand  on  a  situation 
naturally  dry,  and,  if  possible,  sheltered  from  the  north- 
west, and  clear  from  all  shade  on  the  south,  east,  and  west, 
so  that  the  sun  may  at  all  times  act  effectually  upon  the 
house.  The  standard  principle,  as  to  aspect,  is  to  set  the 
front  directly  to  the  south.  Any  deviation  from  that  point 
should  incline  to  the  east. 

Dimensions. — The  length  may  be  from  ten  feet  up- 
ward ;  but,  if  beyond  forty  feet,  the  number  of  fires  and 
flues  are  multiplied.  The  medium  width  is  from  twelve 
to  sixteen  feet.  Our  directions  will  apply  to  the  two  ex- 
treme points,  viz. :  forty  feet  by  sixteen,  and  in  height,  at 
back,  from  twelve  to  eighteen  feet ;  the  height  in  front  six 
feet,  including  about  three  feet  in  brick  basement,  to  sup- 
port the  front  glass,  which  will  be  two  and  a  half  feet, 
allowing  six  inches  for  frame-work. 

Furnace  and  Flues. — It  is  of  great  importance  to  have! 
these  erected  in  such  a  manner  as  will  effectually  heat  the 
12 


134  HOT-HOUSE. 

house.  The  greatest  difficulty  is  to  have  the  furnace  to 
draw  well.  As  workmen  are  not  generally  conversant  on 
the  subject,  nor  yet  understand  the  effect  or  distribution  of 
heat  in  these  departments,  we  will  give  minute  details  on 
their  construction.  The  furnace  should  be  outside  of  the 
house,  either  at  back  or  end ;  the  former  is  preferable,  cir- 
cumstances not  always  allowing  it  on  the  other  plan.  Dig 
out  the  furnace-hole,  or  what  is  termed  stock-hole,  about 
five  feet  deep.  Let  the  door  of  the  furnace  be  in  the  back 
wall  of  the  house,  thereby  having  all  the  heated  building 
inside,  that  no  heat  may  be  lost.  The  brick-work  round 
the  furnace  should  be  nine  inches  thick,  laying  the  inside 
with  fire-brick.  Around  the  outside  leave  a  vacuum  two 
or  three  inches  wide,  to  allow  the  heat  to  arise  from  around 
the  furnace  into  the  interior  of  the  house,  thereby  saving 
the  whole  heat  of  the  fuel.  The  furnace  will  require  to  be 
two  and  a  half  feet  long,  ten  inches  wide,  and  one  foot 
high,  before  the  spring  of  the  arch  and  clear  of  the  bars ; 
leave  one  foot  for  an  ash-pit,  then  lay  the  bars.  They 
should  be  sixteen  inches  long,  one  inch  broad  on  the  upper 
side,  two  inches  deep,  and  two-eights  broad  on  the  lower 
side,  and,  with  the  door  and  frame,  should  be  cast  iron. 
Half  an  inch  between  each  bar  will  be  sufficient.  The 
flue  should  rise  from  the  furnace  by  a  steep  declivity  of 
from  twenty  inches  to  two  feet,  and  pass  the  door  of  the 
house,  (without  a  dip,')  when  it  must  be  elevated  above  the 
level  of  the  floor  of  the  house  along  the  front,  and  at  the 
opposite  end  of  the  house  must  dip  to  pass  the  door.  The 
dip  must  not  be  lower  than  the  bottom  of  the  flue  at  the 
neck  of  the  furnace,  and  should  be  of  a  concave  form, 
(avoiding  acute  angles.)  Lead  it  along  the  back  to  enter 
the  wall  over  the  furnace.  When  thus  taken  round  the 
house,  the  heat  will  be  expanded  before  it  enters  the  chim- 
ney. The  inside  of  the  flues  should  be  from  six  to  ten 
inches  wide,  and  eight  inches  deep ;  plaster  the  bottom  of 
it,  but  no  other  part,  as  plaster  is  partially  a  non-conductor. 
The  above  description  is  for  burning  anthracite  coal ;  but 
where  wood  is  to  be  the  fuel,  the  furnace  must  be  one-half 
larger.  We  have  been  particular  in  the  description  of 
furnace  bars,  as  those  generally  used  are  miserable  substi- 
tutes. Circumstances  may  cause  the  furnace  to  be  placed 
at  the  end  or  front  of  the  house.  In  either  case  the  stock 


HOT-HOUSE.  135 

hole  will  not  require  to  be  so  deep;  or  where  there  is  only 
one  door  in  the  house,  a  stock-hole  three  and  a  half  feet 
deep  will  be  enough,  which  should  be  built  like  a  cellar, 
to  keep  out  any  under  water.  In  all  instances  pass  the 
first  flue  to  the  front  of  the  house,  over  which  have  a  close 
table,  covered  with  two  inches  of  sand,  and,  by  keeping  it 
moist,  will  afford  a  very  congenial  heat  to  young  and  valu- 
able plants.  Likewise  over  the  furnace  have  a  frame  in 
the  same  manner,  which  will  be  found  useful  for  propagat- 
ing. Any  part  of  the  furnace  or  flue  that  is  under  the 
floor  of  the  house,  should  have  a  vacuity  on  both  sides  to 
let  the  heat  pass  upward. 

Furnaces  and  flues  on  the  above  construction  are  the 
most  simple  in  arrangement,  and  the  easiest  to  manage  at 
all  times.  But  where  capital,  taste,  and  practical  science 
can  be  united,  a  more  elegant  disposition  of  heating  con- 
venience can  be  adopted :  an  excavation  should  be  made 
for  the  flue  to  pass  along  under  the  pathway,  which  path- 
way may  be  a  casting  of  iron,  or  wooden  slats,  fancifully 
put  together,  and  at  least  six  inches  above  the  flue.  In 
building  the  furnace,  place  thereon  a  boiler  of  cast-iron  or 
copper,  about  two  feet  deep,  two  feet  long,  and  four  inches 
wide,  with  a  zinc  or  copper  lid :  having  it  prepared  to  re- 
ceive two  pipes,  one  near  the  bottom  and  the  other  about 
four  inches  from  the  top  :  these  pipes  may  be  from  four  to 
six  inches  in  diameter,  and  are  to  be  taken  along  under  the 
table  in  front  of  the  house,  in  a  level  position,  and,  at  the 
end  of  the  house,  joined  together  by  a  perpendicular  pipe, 
or  joint  which  should  have  an  end  about  one  foot  higher 
than  the  highest  part  of  the  upper  pipe.  When  all  is  pro- 
perly fixed,  fill  the  boiler  with  rain  or  river  water,  if  possi- 
ble :  the  air  in  the  pipes  will  pass  out  at  the  perpendicular 
end,  and,  when  all  are  full,  put  a  perforated  cover  on  the 
end  of  the  pipe.  As  soon  as  the  water  becomes  heated,  it 
will  arise  from  the  bottom  of  the  boiler,  and  pass  along  the 
upper  pipe,  and  return  cool  by  the  under  one.  Or,  in 
place  of  the  pipe  returning  again  by  the  front,  it  can  pass 
all  round  the  house,  only  there  must  be  a  piece  of  perpen- 
dicular pipe  to  allow  the  air  to  get  out — the  consumption 
of  water  will  not  be  over  half  a  gallon  in  twenty-four  hours. 
If  the  pipes  require  to  be  higher  than  the  boiler,  the  boiler 
cover  must  be  hermetically  sealed,  and  the  filling  operation 


136  HOT-HOUSE. 

conducted  by  the  upright  tube  or  pipe,  which  must  always 
be  full  of  water.  This  we  consider  the  most  economical 
method  of  heating  by  hot  water,  and  it  is  by  far  the  most 
simple — simple  indeed  in  every  part,  though  volumes  have 
been  written  on  the  subject. 

Park  Pit. — We  consider  such  an  erection  in  the  centre 
of  a  hot-house  a  nuisance,  and  prefer  a  stage,  which  may 
be  constructed  according  to  taste.  It  should  be  made  of 
the  best  Carolina  pine,  leaving  a  passage  all  round,  to  cause 
a  free  circulation  of  air.  The  back  and  end  paths  may  be 
about  two  feet  wide,  and  the  front  three  feet.  The  angle 
of  the  stage  should  be  parallel  with  the  glass,  having  the 
steps  from  six  inches  to  one  foot  apart. 

Where  there  are  some  large  plants,  they  may  stand  on 
the  floor  behind  the  stage,  or  on  tressels,  according  to  their 
height. 

Angle  of  the  glazed  Roof. — The  pitch  of  the  roof  is 
usually  varied  to  agree  with  the  design  of  the  house,  and 
the  size  of  the  plants  to  be  grown  therein.  Where  pleasure 
and  ornament  are  the  principal  objects,  the  angle  should  be 
about  33°  from  the  level  line ;  but  a  few  degrees  of  inclina- 
tion either  way  is  of  minor  importance. 

Materials  for  glazing  Sashes.'— Caroline  pine  is  the  best 
material  for  the  wood-work,  as  it  is  not  so  subject  to  decay 
from  moisture  and  heat  as  the  other  kinds  of  pine  wood. 
The  frames  or  sashes  can  be  of  any  convenient  length,  not 
exceeding  ten  feet,  and  about  three  and  a  half  or  four  feet 
wide,  and  made  from  plank  two  inches  thick,  divided  so 
as  they  can  be  glazed  with  glass  six  inches  wide. 

Of  Glazing. — The  pieces  of  glass  should  not  exceed 
six  inches  by  eight,  though  six  by  six  is  preferable ;  the 
lappings  about  one  quarter  of  an  inch.  The  frames  ought 
to  have  two  coats  of  paint  previous  to  glazing,  and  the 
glass  bedded  in  putty.  Some  prefer  the  lappings  to  be 
puttied  also.  It  is  our  opinion  that  in  a  hot-house  these 
should  not  be  puttied,  but,  in  the  green-house,  the  closer 
they  can  be  made  the  better. 

Of  Shutters. — These  should  be  made  of  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  white  pine,  and  bound  on  both  ends  and  sides, 
having  a  cross  piece  in  the  middle  of  the  same.  They 
ought  to  be  painted  at  least  once  in  three  years. 


Jan.]  HOT-HOUSE.  137 


HOT-HOUSE. 


JANUARY. 

AT  all  times  be  very  careful  of  the  temperature  of  this 
department,  and  more  especially  at  this  season  of  the  year, 
as  a  few  minutes'  neglect  might  materially  injure  many  of 
the  delicate  plants.  The  thermometer  ought  to  range 
between  55°  and  65°.  In  fine  sunshine  days  admit  a 
little  air  by  having  some  of  the  top  sashes  let  down  one, 
two,  or  three  inches,  according  to  the  weather,  and  let  it 
always  be  done  from  eleven  to  one  o'clock ;  but  by  no 
means  in  such  a  manner  as  to  cause  a  draught  in  the  inte- 
rior of  the  house,  which  would  be  very  prejudicial.  There- 
fore, be  always  cautious  during  cold  weather,  in  adminis- 
tering that  necessary  element  to  vegetation,  which  is  so 
conducive  to  health. 


OF  FIRING  AND  FUEL. 

The  hot-house  ought  never  to  be  left  entirely  to  inexpe- 
rienced persons,  because  they  are  not  aware  of  what  might 
be  the  result  of  inattention  even  for  an  hour.  Attention 
to  the  following  observations  will  obviate  every  difficulty: 
About  this  season  of  the  year  frost  generally  sets  in  very- 
severe  in  the  middle  states.  Suppose  the  day  may  have  all 
the  clemency  of  spring,  the  night  may  be  directly  the  re- 
verse. Every  precaution  is  necessary  to  guard  against 
extremes.  The  shutters  are  put  on  every  night  at  sun- 
down, and,  in  severe  weather,  as  soon  as  the  sun  goes  off 
the  glass.  If  the  shutters  are  omitted  till  late  in  severe 
frost,  it  will  so  reduce  the  heat  of  the  house,  that  you  can- 
not overcome  it  by  fire  until  near  midnight;  and,  when 
done,  the  fire  or  fires  hare  been  made  more  powerful  than 
they  ought  to  be,  proving  ungenial  to  the  plants  that  are 
near  the  flues.  The  air,  as  above  directed,  having  been 
taken  off  the  house  at  one  o'clock,  as  soon  as  the  mercury 
begins  to  fall  in  the  thermometer,  kindle  the  fire,  and,  sup- 
12* 


138  HOT-HOUSE.  [Jan. 

posing  it  is  anthracite  coal,  in  twenty  minutes,  with  a  good 
drawing  furnace,  the  heat  will  operate  in  the  house.  If  a 
coal  fire,  kindled  about  four  o'clock,  it  will  require  an  addi- 
tion about  six,  and  then  may  be  made  up  again  about  nine 
or  ten,  which  will  suffice  until  morning.  The  quantity 
must  be  regulated  by  the  weather.  If  the  fuel  is  wood,  it 
must  be  attended  to  three  or  four  times  during  the  even- 
ing; and,  when  the  mornings  are  intensely  cold,  a  fire 
may  be. requisite.  When  there  are  bad  drawing  furnaces, 
the  fires  must  be  made  much  earlier,  perhaps  by  two  or 
three  o'clock,  which  will  be  easily  observed  by  the  time 
the  fire  takes  effect  upon  the  air  of  the  house.  The  tem- 
perature ought  never  to  be  under  fifty  degrees  of  Fahren- 
heit. 


OF  WATERING  THE  PLANTS. 

To  do  this  judiciously,  is  so  necessary  to  vegetation,  and 
so  requisite  to  understand,  and  yet  the  knowledge  so  diffi- 
cult to  convey  to  others,  (being  entirely  acquired  by  prac- 
tice,) that  if  the  power  were  in  man  to  impart  to  his  fel- 
low-men, he  would  possess  the  power  of  perfecting  a 
gardener  by  diction.  However,  the  hints  on  this  important 
point  of  floriculture  will  be  as  clear  and  expressive  as  can 
at  present  be  elicited.  All  plants  in  this  work  that  are 
aquatic  shall  be  specified  as  such ;  and  those  that  are  arid 
shall  be  duly  mentioned.  All  others  will  come  in  the 
medium. 

All  the  plants  must  be  looked  over  every  day,  and  those 
watered  that  appear  to  be  getting  dry  on  the  top.  It  must 
be  strictly  observed  not  to  give  water  to  any  but  such  as 
strictly  require  it,  and  let  it  be  given  moderately  at  this 
season.  There  is  not  so  much  liability  to  err,  at  present, 
in  giving  too  little,  as  in  administering  too  much.  Vege- 
tation among  the  stove  or  hot-house  plants  will  soon  begin 
to  show,  and  the  soil  will  become  sour  if  it  is  impregnated 
with  stagnant  moisture.  Small  plants  should  always  be 
watered  with  a  pot  having  what  is  termed  a  rose  upon  it. 
The  surface  of  the  rose,  that  is,  where  it  is  perforated  with 
small  apertures,  ought  to  be  level,  or  a  little  concave,  which 
would  convey  the  water  more  to  a  centre,  and  make  neater 


Jan."]  HOT-HOUSE — INSECTS,  &c.  139 

work,  by  preventing  any  water  from  being  unnecessarily 
spilt  in  the  house.  The  size  of  the  pot  will  be  regulated 
by  the  person  to  suit  the  conveniences  of  the  place.  Water, 
when  applied  either  to  the  roots  or  foliage  of  the  plants, 
should  be  about  the  medium  temperature  of  the  house. 
Where  there  are  no  cisterns,  a  tank  or  barrel  might  be  in 
the  house,  in  which  the  water  could  stand  for  one  night  or 
more,  as  is  most  suitable.  When  water  is  given  without 
being  thus  aired,  it  chills  the  roots,  prevents  a  luxuriant 
growth,  injures  the  fresh  and  healthful  appearance  of  the 
foliage,  and  too  frequently  gives  to  all  the  plants  a  sickly 
hue. 


OF  INSECTS,  THEIR  DESTRUCTION,  &c. 

In  this  department  insects  begin  to  increase  by  hun- 
dreds, and  too  frequently  their  ravages  are  very  obvious 
before  their  progress  is  arrested.  We  will  treat  of  those 
which  are  most  common,  under  their  respective  heads,  with 
their  nature  and  cure,  as  far  as  has  come  under  our  obser- 
vation. 

Jlphis  rosse,  of  the  natural  order  of  Heiniptera,  or  what 
is  commonly  known  by  Green  Fly,  Green  Lice,  &c.,  in- 
fect plants  in  general,  and  are  particularly  destructive  in 
the  hot-house  to  Hibiscus  rosa-sin?nsis,  tflsclepias,  Crds- 
sula  coccinea,  Lantdna,  &c.,  and  many  other  plants  of  a 
free-growing  nature.  They  attack  the  young  and  tender 
shoots  at  the  point,  leaving  a  dark  filthy  appearance  on  the 
foliage.  Many  remedies  for  their  destruction  have  been 
offered  to  the  public  by  various  writers,  each  equally 
secure  in  his  own  opinion.  Extensive  practice  alone  can 
show  the  most  easy  and  effectual  cure.  Fumigating  with 
tobacco  is  decidedly  the  most  efficacious,  and  in  the  power 
of  any  to  perform.  Take  a  small  circular  furnace,  made 
of  sheet  iron,  diameter  at  top  twelve  inches,  and  at  bottom 
eight;  depth  one  foot,  having  a  grating  in  it  to  reach  with- 
in three  inches  of  the  bottom,  which  will  leave  space  for 
the  air  to  pass,  and  where  the  ashes  will  fall  and  be  kept 
in  safety,  having  a  handle  like  a  pail  to  carry  it  with. 
This,  or  any  thing  similar,  being  ready,  put  in  it  a  few- 
embers  of  charcoal,  ignited  to  redness;  take  it  into  the 


140  HOT-HOUSE — INSECTS,  &c.  [Jan. 

centre  of  the  house,  and  put  therein  a  quantity  of  moist 
tobacco.  If  it  attempts  to  blaze  or  flame,  sprinkle  a  little 
water  thereon ;  and,  as  it  consumes,  continue  to  add  to- 
bacco until  the  house  is  entirely  full  of  smoke,  observing 
always  to  do  it  in  still,  cloudy  weather,  or  in  the  evening. 
If  it  is  windy,  the  smoke  is  carried  off  without  having  half 
the  effect,  and  requires  more  tobacco.  The  house  must  be 
closely  shut  up.  There  are  several  plants  whose  foliage 
is  of  a  soft  downy  nature,  such  as  Helitropiums,  Calla- 
cdrpus,  Sdlvias,  and  many  of  the  Lantanas,  Vmcas,  with 
several  others  that  cannot  stand  strong  fumigation  without 
danger.  These  should  be  put  down  in  the  house,  or  under 
the  stage.  These  fumigations  will  have  to  be  repeated  fre- 
quently, the  time  for  which  will  easily  be  perceived;  and, 
when  required,  ought  not  to  be  delayed.  Several  species 
and  varieties  of  the  same  genus,  rfphis,  can  be  destroyed 
in  the  like  manner. 

Jlcaris  tellurius,  or  red  spider,  is  caused  by  a  dry  atmo- 
sphere, and  its  havoc  generally  is  obvious  before  it  is 
arrested.  With  its  proboscis  it  wounds  the  fine  capillary 
vessels  of  the  leaves.  If  they  progress  in  their  destructive 
work,  the  leaves  will  prematurely  decay.  On  this  appear- 
ance, turn  up  the  leaf,  and  you  will  see  them  running 
about  with  incredible  swiftness.  Their  body  is  of  a  blood 
colour,  and  their  feet  light  red.  When  very  numerous, 
they  work  thick  webs  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaf,  and 
frequently  all  over  it,  forming  a  mass  of  half  died  plants, 
decayed  leaves,  and  thousands  of  spiders.  The  most 
effectual  remedy  is  a  thorough  syringing  with  water,  and 
profusely  under  the  foliage.  This  being  done  every  even- 
ing, will  subdue  and  eventually  banish  them.  Had  the 
house  been  syringed  two  or  three  times  per  week,  these 
intruders  would  not  have  appeared.  It  is  said  by  some 
writers,  that  watering  only  reduces  them  to  a  temporary 
state  of  inaction,  and  will  not  destroy  them.  Laying  aside 
the  many  prescribed  nostrums,  we  assert  that  the  pure  ele- 
ment is  the  most  effectual  cure,  as  well  as  the  most  easy 
to  be  obtained.* 

Thrips,   order   Hemiptera,   are   insects   so   minute   as 

*  Fumes  of  sulphur  is  instant  death  to  them;  but  it  has  to  be 
used  with  great  caution  and  experience. 


Jan.']  HOT-HOUSE — INSECTS,  &c.  141 

scarcely  to  be  perceptible  to  the  naked  eye.  They  gene- 
rally lurk  close  to  the  veins  of  the  leaves  of  plants,  and 
frequently  attack  esculents.  When  viewed  through  a 
glass,  they  are  seen,  when  touched,  to  skip  with  great  agi- 
lity. The  larva  is  of  a  high  brown  or  reddish  colour.  The 
thrip  has  four  wings,  and  walks  with  its  body  turned  up- 
ward. It  frequently  attacks  the  extremities  of  tender  shoots 
or  young  leaves,  which  become  shriveled,  brown,  and  will 
rub  to  dust  easily  between  the  thumb  and  f]nger.  When 
any  leaves  or  shoots  are  perceived  to  be  so,  if  you  do  not 
observe  the  green  fly,  expect  the  thrips.  They  may  be 
destroyed  by  a  fumigation  of  tobacco,  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  green  fly.  By  the  simple  and  expeditious  method 
of  fumigation,  these  insects  and  several  others  may  be  de- 
stroyed effectually  at  any  time  they  appear. 

Cocus  hesperidv.s,  or  mealy  bug,  has  appeared  in  the 
hot-houses  about  Philadelphia  within  these  few  years,  and, 
if  not  instantly  destroyed,  increases  rapidly.  It  is  of  a 
white  dusty  colour ;  when  broken,  of  a  brownish  red,  gene- 
rally covered  with  down,  under  which  it  deposits  its  eggs ; 
and  they,  in  a  few  months,  come  forth  in  great  numbers. 
The  cocus  generally  is  of  a  dormant  nature,  but  in  warm 
weather  they  may  be  seen  moving  rapidly  up  the  stems  of 
the  plants.  Fumigating  has  no  observable  effect  on  these 
insects ;  therefore,  as  soon  as  they  appear,  recourse  must 
be  had  to  other  means.  The  liquid  made  from  the  follow- 
ing receipt  is  death  to  any  of  the  Cocus  tribe :  Take  two 
pounds  of  strong  soap,  one  pound  of  flour  of  sulphur,  one 
pound  of  leaf  tobacco,  one  and  a  half  ounce  of  nux  vomica, 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  turpentine,  which  boil  in  four  gal- 
lons of  river  water  to  three;  then  set  aside  to  cool.  When 
boiling,  stir  it  well  with  a  stick,  continuing  to  do  so  until 
it  is  reduced  as  above.  In  this  liquor  immerse  the  whole 
plant,  drawing  it  to  and  fro  gently,  that  the  liquor  may 
penetrate  everywhere.  This  done,  lay  the  plant  on  its 
side,  until  it  begins  to  dry,  then  syringe  well  with  clean 
water,  and  put  it  in  its  respective  station.  Where  a  col- 
lection of  plants  is  free  from  any  insects  of  the  kind,  every 
plant  that  is  introduced  ought  to  be  minutely  scrutinized, 
that  the  unclean  may  be  kept  from  the  clean :  the  above 
insect  will  feed  almost  on  any  plant,  but  indulges  on  Crds- 


142  HOT-HOUSE — INSECTS,  &c.  [Jan. 

sulas,  any  of  the  bristly  Cactus,  Gardenias,  and  in  fact 
whatever  is  in  the  way. 

Cocus  ,  or  brown  scaly  insect,  is  frequently 

found  on  many  plants,  but  we  never  could  perceive  that  it 
does  any  other  material  injury  than  soiling  them.  We 
have  always  observed,  that  it  is  found  in  winter  to  abound 
in  those  situations  which  are  most  excluded  from  air;  there- 
fore is  of  less  importance  than  the  other  species,  which  eat 
and  corrode  the  leaves  of  tender  plants.  A  washing  with 
strong  soap-suds  will  destroy  them,  or  the  above  liquid 
will  do  it  more  effectually.  Tie  a  piece  of  sponge  on  the 
end  of  a  small  stick,  and  scrub  every  leaf,  stem  and  cre- 
vice. Fumigating  destroys  the  larvae  of  this  species. 

Cocus  ,  or  small  white  scaly  insect,  which 

generally  infests  Cycus,  Nerium,  Oleas,  and  Acacias,  &c., 
may  be  destroyed  by  washing  as  above  with  a  sponge,  and 
a  strong  decoction  of  tobacco,  using  the  liquid  about  the 
warmth  of  100°.  Being  thus  heated,  it  irritates  the  insect, 
when,  by  easing  itself  from  its  bed,  the  fluid  passes  under 
it,  and  causes  immediate  death.  If  it  is  not  thus  irritated, 
it  adheres  so  closely  to  the  foliage,  that  it  will  keep  you  at 
defiance.  The  under,  or  dark  side  of  the  leaves  is  its  resi- 
dence ;  and  we  have  observed  a  plant  in  a  house  where 
there  was  only  light  on  one  side,  with  the  dark  side  lite- 
rally covered,  while  the  light  side  was  clean.  So  much 
for  having  houses  with  plenty  of  light.  The  effects  of  this 
insect  are  of  a  corroding  nature,  extracting  all  the  juice 
from  the  leaf;  and  where  they  have  got  to  the  extremity, 
the  foliage  is  completely  yellow,  and  of  a  decayed  appear- 
ance. 

Cocus ,  or  turtle  insect.  We  have  never  ob- 
served this  insect  arrive  to  any  extent.  It  is  the  largest 
of  any  known  among  us,  and  very  like  a  turtle  in  minia- 
ture. On  lifting  it  from  the  wood,  to  which  it  generally 
adheres,  there  appear  to  be  hundreds  of  eggs  under  it, 
but  fumigating  completely  destroys  the  larvae.  In  our 
opinion,  this  turtle  insect  is  no  other  than  the  old  female 
of  the  brown  scaly  insect,  which  swells  to  a  large  size 
before  depositing  its  eggs.  We  have  frequently  observed 
the  insect  dead  in  this  enlarged  state,  and  question  if  this 
be  not  the  last  stage  of  its  transmigration.  The  male  insect 
is  winged,  and  very  active  in  its  movements. 


Jan."]  HOT-HOUSE— OP  CLEANSING,  &C.  143 

Where  bulbous  roots,  such  as  Hyacinths,  Jonquils, 
Jxias,  Lachenallas,  &c.,  are  required  to  be  early  in  flower, 
they  may,  during  this  month,  be  put  in  the  front  of  the  hot- 
house and  watered  freely  till  they  bloom,  when  they  may 
be  taken  to  the  green-house  or  parlour. 

Azaleas,  Rhododendron  Roses,  and  some  other  plants, 
do  admirably  to  force,  and  where  there  is  a  large  stock,  a 
few  should  be  brought  into  early  bloom  with  the  heat  of 
this  department. 


OF  CLEANSING  PLANTS,  HOUSE,  &c. 

This  subject  ought  to  be  kept  constantly  in  view.  How- 
ever correctly  every  thing  else  may  be  executed,  without 
that  adorning  beauty,  cleanliness,  all  will  appear  only  half 
done.  Therefore  let  all  the  dead  leaves  be  picked  off  every 
day,  the  dust  and  other  litter  swept  out  of  the  house,  and, 
when  necessary,  the  house  washed,  which  will  be  at  least 
once  a  week.  That  the  foliage  of  the  plants  may  always 
appear  fresh,  syringe  them  every  morning,  when  there  is 
the  appearance  of  sun.  At  present,  this  will  in  a  great 
measure  keep  down  the  insects,  and  will  prove  a  bane  to 
the  red  spider. 

Tie  up  neatly  with  stakes  and  threads  of  Russia  mat  all 
the  straggling  growing  plants ;  let  the  stakes  be  proportion- 
ate to  the  plants,  and  never  longer,  except  they  are  climb- 
ing sorts.  Do  not  tie  the  branches  in  bundles,  but  singly 
and  neatly,  imitating  nature  as  much  as  possible.  If  any 
of  the  plants  are  affected  with  the  Cocus  insect,  let  them 
be  cleansed  according  to  the  plan  already  mentioned,  taking 
particular  care  also  in  washing  the  stakes  to  which  they 
had  been  previously  tied,  and  burning  all  the  old  tyings, 
which  contain  the  larvae  of  the  insect  in  many  instances, 
especially  of  Cocus  hesperidus.  It  is  premised,  when  any 
of  these  things  are  done,  that  they  will  be  well  done,  and 
not  half  doing,  and  always  doing.  Cleanliness,  in  every 
respect,  promotes  a  pure  air,  which  is  congenial  to  vegeta- 
tion, and  will,  with  other  attentions,  always  ensure  a  health- 
ful and  vigorous  appearance  in  the  house. 


144  HOT-HOUSE.  [Feb. 


FEBRUARY. 

IN  the  early  part  of  this  month  the  weather  generally  is 
very  cold  and  changeable  in  the  middle  states,  and  strict 
attention,  with  the  greatest  caution,  will  require  to  be  paid 
to  the  management  of  the  hot-house.  Most  of  the  tropical 
plants  commence  an  active  state  of  vegetation;  and,  if 
checked  by  temperature  or  otherwise,  they  will  not  recover 
until  midsummer.  The  thermometer  may  be  kept  two  or 
three  degrees  higher  with  fire  heat  than  last  month:  the 
sun  will  be  more  powerful,  and  this  will,  in  a  great  degree, 
increase  the  vigour  of  the  plants.  Air  may  be  admitted 
when  the  thermometer  rises  to  75°  or  80°,  not  allowing  it 
to  rise  higher  than  the  latter.  In  giving  air,  let  it  be  done 
by  the  top  sashes.  It  is  improper  to  give  it  in  any  way 
to  cause  a  current,  for  the  external  air  is  yet  very  cold, 
although  the  sun  is  more  powerful.  An  inch  or  two  on  a 
few  of  the  sashes,  as  has  been  previously  observed,  will  be 
effectual  in  keeping  the  temperature  low  enough. 

With  regard  to  firing,  what  was  said  last  month  may 
suffice  for  this.  Always  recollect  that  it  is  more  preferable 
to  keep  out  the  cold  than  to  put  it  out.  It  will  frequently 
happen  in  the  time  of  intense  frost,  that  the  weather  is 
dull.  In  such  cases  fire  in  a  small  degree  is  requisite  all 
day. 

Heavy  snows  ought  never  to  be  allowed  to  remain  on 
the  shutters  while  they  are  on  the  house.  If  the  snow  lies 
on  the  sashes  one  day,  the  internal  heat  will  dissolve  some 
of  it ;  night  coming  on,  will  freeze  it  to  the  wood-work, 
when  it  will  become  a  solid  mass,  and  frequently  cannot 
be  separated  without  much  damage.  If  allowed  to  remain 
on  for  two  days,  the  plants  are  very  much  weakened  and 
the  foliage  discoloured.  Therefore,  let  the  snow  be  cleared 
off*  instantly,  that  no  inconvenience  may  take  place. 

It  will  be  observed  that  plants  absorb  more  water  this 
month  than  last.  The  quantity  given  will  require  to  be 
increased,  according  to  the  increase  of  vegetation  and  the 
advancement  of  the  season ;  but  never  give  it  until  the  soil 
begins  to  dry,  and  then  in  such  proportion  as  will  reach 
the  bottom  of  the  pot.  The  best  time  to  water  is  after  the 


Feb."]  HOT-HOUSE OF  REPOTTING  PLANTS.  145 

sun  has  got  on  the  house  in  the  morning,  observing  all  the 
directions  given  in  January.  , 


OF  INSECTS,  &c. 

Perhaps  sufficient  observations  were  given  under  this 
head  last  month ;  but  the  importance "  of  keeping  these 
disagreeable  visitors  out  of  the  house  constrains  us  to  make 
a  few  more  remarks.  Man  cannot  be  too  frequently  guarded 
against  his  foes,  more  especially  when  they  are  summoning 
all  their  forces,  and  no  profession  has  more  than  that  of  the 
Horticulturist.  Let  a  strict  examination  be  made  about 
the  end  of  the  month  for  the  red  spider;  they  will  be  in 
operation  some  weeks  before  their  depredations  are  ob- 
served on  the  foliage.  The  under  side  of  the  leaf  is  their 
resort  in  the  first  instance,  and  on  such  plants  as  have  been 
already  mentioned. 

Observe  daily  the  young  shoots,  in  case  the  green  fly 
becomes  numerous.  They  give  the  foliage  a  very  disa- 
greeable appearance,  and  it  is  too  often  intolerable,  before 
their  career  is  arrested.  It  also  takes  a  stronger  fumiga- 
tion, which  has  frequently  to  be  repeated  the  following  day 
to  the  same  degree,  much  to  the  injury  of  many  of  the 
plants,  and  adding  to  the  disagreeableness  of  the  continued 
vapour  in  the  house. 


OF  REPOTTING  PLANTS. 

About  the  end  of  the  month  some  of  the  plants  of  Cur- 
cuma, Amomum,  K&mpferia,  Alpina,  Phrynium,  Cdnna, 
Zingiber,  Hedychium,  and  others  that  are  on  the  dry 
shelf,  will  be  offering  to  grow.  Let  them  be  taken  out  of 
their  pots,  some  of  their  weakest  shoots  or  tubers  taken 
off,  and  the  strong  ones  repotted:  give  gentle  waterings 
until  they  grow  freely,  then  give  an  abundance.  (Soil 
No.  17.) 

Dionsea  mucipula,  or  Venus  fly-trap,  grows  best  in  the 

hot-house,  and  will,  about  the  end  of  the  month,  stand  in 

need  of  being  repotted.     This  plant  is  very  seldom  grown 

in  any  degree  of  perfection,  having  been  always  considered 

13 


146  HOT-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING  PLANTS.  [Feb. 

a  delicate  plant  in  collections.  Take  it  out  of  the  pot 
just  before  beginning  to  grow  afresh,  and  divested  of  all 
the  soil,  leaving  only  a  few  of  the  young  roots,  (it  is  a 
bulb,  and  will  receive  no  injury  by  so  doing,)  put  it  in  new 
soil ;  when  potted,  place  the  pot  in  a  saucer  with  one  inch 
of  water  in  it,  giving  afresh  supply  every  other  day;  this 
being  repeated  every  year,  it  will  grow,  flower  and  seed  in 
perfection.  (Soil  No.  5.) 

Gesnerias,  if  in  small  pots,  give  larger  as  they  advance 
in  growth.  This  genus  requires  to  have  plenty  of  pot-room 
to  make  them  flower  well.  G.  bulbosa,  G.  Zebrina  and 
G.  Sellowii  ought  to  have  a  situation  in  every  hot-house. 
They  are  remarkable  for  their  many  brilliant  crimson  flow- 
ers, and  continue  in  flower  for  a  length  of  time.  When 
the  bulbs  begin  to  push,  shake  them  out  of  the  earth,  and 
repot  them  into  smaller  pots;  and,  as  soon  as  the  roots 
reach  the  side  of  the  earth,  which  will  be  in  about  one 
month,  put  them  in  larger  pots,  and  continue  to  do  so  until 
flowering,  which  will  be  about  the  first  of  June,  observing 
always  to  keep  the  ball  of  earth  entire.  G.  Douglasii, 
G.  rutilla,  G.  acaiilis,  and  some  others,  are  all  well  worth 
attention.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Gloriosas  must  be  repotted  in  the  beginning  of  this 
month ;  G.  superba  is  the  most  beautiful  and  curious.  The 
crown  of  the  roots  ought  to  be  planted  one  and  a  half  inch 
deep,  taking  care  not  to  break  them.  Do  not  water  much 
until  they  begin  to  grow.  The  earth  must  not  have  much 
water.  As  the  plants  grow,  they  will  require  a  more  libe- 
ral supply;  yet  it  is  necessary,  at  all  times,  to  be  mode- 
rate in  giving  it.  If  well  treated,  the  superb  flowers  will 
appear  in  June  or  July.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Gloxinias  are  beautiful  herbaceous  plants,  with  large 
showy  flowers,  requiring  soil  and  treatment  similar  to  (Ges- 
neria).  G.  spedosa,  dark  blue,  G.  speciosa-pdllida,  pale 
lilac ;  G.  Candida,  pure  white,  and  G.  grandiflora,  very 
large  light  blue,  are  the  finest,  although  several  of  the  other 
species  are  very  interesting,  especially  G,  hirsuta. 


March.']     HOT-HOUSE— OF  CLEANSING  PLANTS,  &c.         147 


OF  CLEANSING  PLANTS,  HOUSE,  &c. 

With  regard  to  cleaning  the  plants.  Sprinkling  or  sy- 
ringing is  at  all  times,  to  a  greater  or  less  degree,  necessary. 
The  plants  will,  in  this  compartment,  be  in  their  first 
stage  of  growth,  and,  if  dust  or  foulness  be  permitted  to 
lodge  on  their  foliage,  the  pores  will  be  obstructed,  the 
plants  will  become  unhealthy,  and  the  growth  of  insects 
increased. 

Let  all  moss,  litter,  decayed  leaves  or  weeds,  be  cleared 
out  of  the  house,  the  earth  in  the  pots  stirred  up  with  a 
round  pointed  stick,  and  fresh  earth  given  where  required, 
that  the  air  may  operate  therein  freely. 

The  house  ought  always  to  be  sprinkled  before  being 
swept,  to  prevent  the  dust  rising. 

Attend  to  the  bulbous  roots  as  directed  last  month,  such 
as  Hyacinths,  Narcissus,  &c. 


MARCH. 

IF  this  department  has  been  regularly  attended  to,  the 
plants  will  be  in  a  fresh  healthy  state.  Where  there  is  any 
sickly  appearance,  heat  has  been  deficient,  or  insects  of  a 
destructive  character  are  preying  upon  the  plants.  Too 
much  water  at  the  root  frequently  causes  the  foliage  to  be- 
come yellow.  Regular  syringing  must  be  continued  in  the 
morning,  and  it  is  highly  necessary  that  the  water  that  is 
used  should  be  of  the  same  temperature  as  the  house ;  and 
at  all  times,  whatever  water  is  given  to  the  roots,  the  same 
must  be  observed.  For  airing,  see  last  month,  observing, 
as  the  season  advances,  to  increase  the  quantity. 

Continue  to  fumigate  when  any  of  the  Green-fly  appears, 
(see  January  for  directions,)  and  where  there  are  any  of  the 
plants  infected  with  the  white  scaly  insect,  clean  them  as 
there  directed.  If  overlooked  for  a  few  months,  they  will 
be  increased  tenfold.  Very  frequently,  where  there  are 
only  a  few,  they  are  neglected  until  the  plant  is  overrun 


148  HOT-HOUSE OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  [April. 

with  them,  and  then  it  may  be  said,  it  is  impossible  to  dis- 
lodge them  entirely.  Clear  off  all  decayed  leaves  from  the 
plants  which  will  have  made  fresh  shoots,  and  the  decayed 
leaves  very  much  disfigure  the  whole  collection.  We 
would  not  have  repeated  this  observation  if  it  was  not  an 
essential  point,  and  one  which  is  so  frequently  neglected. 


OF  REPOTTING  PLANTS. 

Many  of  the  young  plants  that  are  growing  freely,  and 
where  they  may  be  desired  to  grow  to  a  large  size,  should 
be  frequently  repotted  to  encourage  their  growth.  Ges- 
neria,  Gloxinia,  and  others  previously  mentioned,  must 
have  larger  pots,  as  they  require  it.  Flowering  bulbs  of 
Amaryllis  may  be  brought  into  the  heat  to  make  them 
bloom  early ;  before  they  begin  to  grow,  divest  them  of  the 
old  soil  and  put  them  into  fresh:  this  is  particularly  neces- 
sary, when  the  bulbs  are  already  in  large  pots.  By  thus 
renewing  the  soil,  the  pots  can  be  used  much  smaller  :  they 
require  plenty  of  drainage  in  the  pot,  and  agree  best  with 
(soil  No.  12). 

Where  plants  of  the  dwarf  Musas  are  intended  to  be 
grown  for  fruiting,  they  must  have  particular  attention  in 
repotting  as  they  grow ;  about  the  first  of  the  month  will  be 
a  proper  time  to  begin  :•  copious  waterings  are  daily  required 
when  they  are  in  a  growing  state.  Their  soil  is  No.  12, 
with  one  portion  more  manure.  For  farther  detail,  see 
May. 


APRIL. 

WHERE  the  hot-house  has  been  properly  conducted,  the 
plants  generally  will  have  a  vigorous  and  healthful  aspect. 
An  error  frequently  arises  in  the  conducting  of  these  de- 
partments, by  inexperienced  operators  being  ambitious  -of 
outstripping  their  competitors.  They  keep  the  house  in  a 
very  high  temperature,  and  admit  little  or  no  air.  Where 


May.~]  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  149 

such  a  mode  has  been  pursued,  the  plants  will  have  got 
over  their  first  growth,  and  the  foliage  looks  yellow  and 
decaying ;  thus  throwing  the  plants  into  a  state  of  inacti- 
vity, when  nature  herself  commences  her  most  active  move- 
ments. The  temperature  should  not  be  under  55°  in  the 
night,  nor  much  above  75°  during  the  day,  without  admit- 
ting a  little  air  by  the  top  lights.  It  will  not  do  yet  to  give 
air  by  the  front  sashes,  the  wind  being  cool,  and  a  current 
in  the  house  would  be  hurtful.  The  sun  is  not  so  power- 
ful but  the  heat  can  be  kept  down  by  the  air  given  from 
above. 

Hot-house  or  tropical  plants  will  not  materially  suffer 
with  100°  of  sun-heat,  provided  they  are  not  very  near 
the  glass ;  but  such  an  extreme  would  be  injurious  to  prac- 
tice. 


REPOTTING. 

Where  there  is  a  general  assortment  of  the  Cacteae  tribe, 
and  kept  in  this  department,  now  is  the  proper  period  to 
give  them  a  general  repotting.  Of  all  the  tropical  floral 
productions,  there  is  not  a  family  more  curious,  grotesque, 
interesting,  and  beautiful  than  this ;  and,  what  still  more 
enhances  their  real  value,  they  are  in  this  country  of  the 
easiest  culture ;  it  is  with  pleasure  that  we  recommend  a 
few  of  the  grand  and  the  novel,  which  are  faithfully  de- 
scribed in  the  general  list  given  next  month.  The  bottom 
of  every  pot  must  be  covered  with  an  inch  of  pot-shreds, 
or  rough  gravel  for  drainage. 


MAY. 

VERY  few  directions  for  this  department  remain  to  be 
given ;  except  for  shifting  plants,  and  a  few  observations 
on  those  that  are  most  desirable  for  the  hot-house;  which 
we  will  do  in  this  month,  considering  May  and  June  the 
best  months  of  the  year  for  that  operation. 
13* 


150  HOT-HOUSE— OT  REPOTTING,  &C.  \_Ma\). 

The  days  and  nights  will  be  very  mild  by  this  time,  and 
the  sashes  in  every  favourable  day  should  be  opened,  both 
in  front  and  top,  so  that  the  plants  may  be  inured  to  the 
open  air,  which  they  will  be  exposed  to  by  the  end  of  the 
month.  Leave  'in  the  beginning  of  the  month  the  top 
sashes  a  little  open  every  mild  night,  and  gradually,  as  the 
heat  increases,  leave -the  front  sashes  and  doors  open.  Con- 
tinue to  syringe  them  at  least  every  alternate  night,  and,  if 
possible,  every  night;  and  give  them  all, according  to  their 
respective  wants,  liberal  supplies  of  water  every  day.  Ab- 
sorption among  hot-house  plants  is  as  great  during  this 
month  as  in  any  period  of  the  year. 


OF  REPOTTING  PLANTS,  &c. 

It  is  our  candid  opinion  that  this  and  next  month  are  the 
best  periods  for  shifting  or  repotting  all  or  most  of  hot-house 
plants ;  the  end  of  August  being  the  time  always  adopted 
around  Philadelphia  for  that'  operation,  (and  then  they  are 
done  indiscriminately).  We  will  assign  a  few  reasons  for 
our  practice. 

First,  that  it  is  not  congenial  to  the  nature  of  these  plants 
to  have  their  roots  surrounded  with  fresh  soil  when  they 
are  becoming  inactive  ;  secondly,  that  there  is  not  a  suffi- 
ciency of  heat  naturally  to  quicken  them  to  an  active  state 
when  '  they  are  encouraged  ;  and,  thirdly,  being  thus  in 
new  soil  while  dormant*  they  have  a  yellow  and  sickly 
aspect  until  they  begin  to  grow ;  and  the  foliage,  thus  de- 
prived of  its  natural  vigour,  will  not  appear  so  healthful 
again :  whereas,  if  they  are  shifted  or  repotted  in  this  or 
next  month,  at  which  season  they  are  between  two  stages 
of- growth,  they  immediately,  on  receiving  fresh  assistance, 
and  by  the  increasing  heat  of  the  summer,  make  new 
growths,  are  perfectly  ripened  before  the  approach  of 
winter,  and  never  lose  that  vernal  appearance  they  have 
attained.  These  are  our  reasons,  acquired  from  a  close 
practice  and  observation,  and  are-  not  influenced  by  the 
doings  of  others  which  are  so  much  aside.  No  practical 
operator  especially,  nor,  in  fact,  any  individual,  ought  to  be 
governed  by  custom  in  regard  to  the  treatment  of  plants, 
without  having  an  idea  as  to  why  and  wherefore,  founded 


HOT-HOUSE OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  151 

on  the  principles  of  nature,  and  governed  by  her  unerring 
results. 

As  many  are  desirous  of  having  a  knowledge  of  plants 
before  they  order  them,  and  likewise  which  are  the  finest 
flowerers  and  their  general  character,  especially  those  who 
are  at  .a  great  distance,  and  seldom  have  the  privilege  of 
seeing  what  is  most  desirable,  our  descriptions  will  be 
limited,  but  still  will  convey  some  accurate  idea  of  the  arti- 
cle described. 

Acacias.  Several  of  these  are  desirable  in  the  hot-house 
for  the  grandeur  of  their  foliage,  beauty  of  flower,  and  a 
few  of  them  as  specimens  of  valuable  medicinal  plants.  A. 
Houstoni,  now"  Annesleia  Houstoni,  is  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  of  the  Mimosa  tribe,  blooming  from  August  to 
November  in  large  terminal  spikes,  of  a  crimson  colour, 
stamens  very  long  and  beautiful,  leaves  bipinnated  in  pairs. 
A.  grandiflora,  likewise  given  to  Annesleia,  and  similar  to 
the  former  in  colour,  has  very  large  compound  bipinnale 
leaves,  with  from  twenty  to  forty  pairs.  A.  Catechu,  flow- 
ers yellow,  wood  spiny,  leaves  bipinnated,  about  ten  pairs. 
The  inner  wood  of  this  tree  is  of  a  brown  colour,  from 
which  the  Catechu  used  in  medicine  is  prepared.  It  is 
disputed  whether  A.  vera  or  A.  ardbica  produces  the  gum 
Arabic.  We  are  inclined  to  think  it  is  the  latter,  which 
grows  principally  on  the  Atlas  mountains.  The  gum 
exudes  spontaneously  from  the  bark  of  the  tree  in  a  soft 
half  fluid  state.  There  are  many  others  of  this  genus  be- 
longing to  the  hot-house,  but  being  shy  in  flowering,  are 
not  generally  esteemed.  Most  of  the  flowers  have  the 
appearance  of  yellow  balls  of  down,  and  are  hermaphro- 
dite. The  pots  should  all  be  well  drained.  (Soil  No.  1.)* 

JEschynanthus,  about  four  species,  among  which  JE. 
grandiflorus  and  M.  parasiticus  are  very  deserving  of  cul- 
ture ;  they  have  thick  fleshy  foliage,  are  of  slender  growth, 
producing  orange-coloured  tubular  flowers  in  clusters,  and 
require  treatment  similar  to  the  wax-plant.  (Soil  No.  2.) 

Ardisias,  about  eighteen  species.  Plants  highly  es- 
teemed for  the  beauty  of  their  foliage,  flowers,  and  berries. 
The  most  popular  in  our  collections  is  A.  crenulata.  It 
has  rose-coloured  star-like  flowers,  in  terminal  panicles, 

*  These  numbers  refer  to  the  table  of  soils  at  the  end  of  the  wo'rk. 


152  HOT-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  {May. 

and  produces  beautiful  small  red  berries,  which  continue 
until  other  berries  are  produced  the  following  year,  and 
frequently  there  may  be  seen  on  one  plant  the  berries  of 
three  successive  years,  thus  being  a  very  ornamental  plant 
and  very  desirable.  It  is  vulgarly  called  the  dwarf  ever- 
bearing cherry.  It  will  keep  in  a  good  green-house,  but 
not  grow  freely.  A.  solanacea  has  large  oblong  leaves, 
narrowed  at  each  end,  and  bears  purple  berries ;  A.  ele- 
gans  has  entire,  oblong,  shining  leaves ;  A.  umbellata, 
once  A.  littoralis,  is  also  a  fine  plant  for  an  abundance  of 
flower  and  beauty  of  foliage.  The  flowers  are  pink,  in 
large  decompound  panicles. 

rfreca,  Cabbage-tree,  ten  species.  They  are  a  kind  of 
palms,  with  large  pinnated  leaves,  or  properly  fronds.  In 
their  indigenous  state  they  are  from  six  to  forty  feet  high, 
but  in  the  hot-house  they  seldom  exceed  twenty  feet.  A. 
catechu  is  used  in  medicine.  A.  olerdcea  is  cultivated 
extensively  in  the  West  Indies,  and  the  tender  part  of  the 
top  is  eaten  by  the  natives.  A.  montand  is  most  frequent 
in  collections.  There  is  no  particular  beauty  in  the  flowers. 
They  are  all  easily  grown,  if  plenty  of  heat  be  given.  (Soil 
No.  12.) 

Aristolochias,  Birth-wort.  There  are  several  of  these 
belonging  to  the  hot-house,  but  none  of  them  deserving 
particular  observation,  except  A.  labiosa  and  A.  brasilien- 
sis.  The  leaves  are  reniform,  roundish,  cordate,  and  am- 
plexicaule ;  the  flower  or  corolla  is  of  a  curious  construction, 
being  incurved,  and  at  the  base  swelled  or  saccate,  with  a 
large  lip,  and  all  beautifully  spotted ;  colour  greenish  brown. 
They  are  climbing  plants,  and  require  a  strong  heat.  (Soil 
No.  9.) 

Astrapaeas,  three  species.  A.  Wallicldi  is  a  celebrated 
plant  in  Europe,  and  is  frequently  met  with  in  our  collec- 
tions. It  has  a  profusion  of  scarlet  umbellated  flowers, 
with  an  involucre;  has  twenty -five  stamens  united  into  a 
tube,  bearing  the  corolla  with  five  petals;  leaves  roundish, 
cordate,  acuminate,  very  large,  with  persistent,  ovate  wavy 
stipules.  The  plant  is  of  easy  culture,  and  grows  freely, 
wood  very  strong.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Bambiisas,  Bamboo-cane,  two  species.  Plants  of  very 
strong  growth,  and  are  used  in  the  East  Indies,  where  they 
are  indigenous,  for  eVery  purpose  in  the  construction  of 


May.']  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  153 

huts,  for  furniture  both  domestic  and  rural,  for  fences, 
boats,  boxes,  paper,  &c.  It  is  frequently  used  as  pipes  to 
convey  water.  The  species  thus  useful  is  B.  arundindcea, 
which  grows  tt>  a  great  height.  We  do  not  mention  it  as 
interesting  in  beauty,  but  as  a  valuable  plant  for  the  many 
useful  purposes  to  which  it  is  applied.  It  requires  to  be 
kept  wet.  (Soil  No.  15.) 

Banisterias,  a  genus  of  about  fourteen  climbing  ever- 
green plants.  Three  of  them  are  esteemed,  B.  Julgens, 
yellow  flowers  in  racemose  spikes,  leaves  subovate  and 
downy  beneath.  B.  chrisophylla  has  beautiful  foliage,  as 
if  covered  with  a  shining  gold-coloured  dust;  leaves  large, 
oblong,  acute.  B.  splendens,  flowers  in  spikes  of  a  yellow 
colour ;  foliage  large  and  silvery-like ;  the  pots  should  be 
well  drained.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Barringtonias,  two  species.  B.  speciosa  has  produced 
a  great  excitement  among  cultivators,  and  is  one  of  the 
handsomest  plants  produced  within  the  tropics.  The 
leaves  are  large,  oblong,  acute,  shining,  with  fleshy  nerves, 
tinged  with  red;  the  flowers  are  large,  full  of  stamens 
with  four  petals ;  opens  in  the  evening  and  fades  at  sun- 
rise ;  colour  purple  and  white  ;  grows  freely  in  strong  heat. 
(Soil  No.  9.) 

Beaumontias  are  strong  growing  climbing  plants,  with 
large  foliage.  B.  grandiflora  is  said  to  have  beautiful 
large  white  flowers  approaching  the  Oleander.  (Soil  No. 
*«•] 

Bletias,  a  genus  of  about  eight  species,  all  beautiful 
flowering  plants.  B.  Tankervilfise  is  most  superb,  a  small 
plant,  now  (Jan.)  in  bloom,  has  upward  of  fifty  full-blown 
flowers,  besides  many  buds — they  are  brown,  white,  and 
purple,  and  about  two  inches  in  diameter.  When  out  of 
flower,  and  the  roots  become  dormant,  place  the  pots  in  a 
shady  situation ;  allow  the  soil  to  become  dry,  until  the 
roots  begin  to  grow:  as  soon  as  this  is  observed,  repot  the 
plants  arid  expose  them  fully  to  the  sun,  giving  plenty  of 
water  while  growing.  B.  SheppHerdii  is  a  fine  pink,  and 
requires  similar  treatment.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Brmvneas,  five  species  of  splendid  plants,  but  scarce  in 
collections.  B.  coccinea  has  scarlet  flowers  in  pendulous 
bunches,  corolla  semi-double,  foliage  bipinnate,  in  three 
pairs.  B.  rosa,  mountain  rose  of  Trinidad.  B.  grandi- 


154  HOT-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  [May. 

ceps  is  the  finest  of  the  genus,  leaves  bipinnated ;  leaflets 
cordate,  acuminate,  downy,  and  pendulous ;  flowers  rose- 
colour,  in  large  close  heads.  Drain  the  pots  well.  (Soil 
No.  12.) 

Brunfelsias,  very  fine,  free  flowering  plants,  with  white, 
yellowish,  or  purple  flowers.  B.  grandiflora  blooms 
freely,  and  is  finely  scented — a  plant  before  me,  now 
(28th  of  Jan.)  only  one  foot  high,  has  six  full  expanded 
flowers  upon  it,  each  fully  two  inches  in  diameter.  (Soil 
No.  9.) 

Buonapdrtea  juncea,  a  very  curious  low  growing  plant, 
with  long  narrow,  recurved,  round  leaves ;  with  spikes  of 
small  blue  flowers.  There  does  appear  to  be  three  distinct 
varieties  in  cultivation,  but  are  rarely  attainable.  (Soil 
No.  12.) 

Buddha  madagascariensis  blooms  profusely  during 
winter  in  spikes  of  orange-coloured  flowers,  of  a  kind  of 
honey  fragrance — the  plant  is  strong  growing,  and  of  the 
easiest  culture.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Calathea  zebrlna,  frequently  known  as  mardnta  zebri- 
na  ;  it  is  a  plant  unique  in  appearance,  having  large  elon- 
gated ovate  leaves,  beautifully  striped  with  green  and  dark 
purple,  and  called  the  Zebra  plant.  It  has  light  blue  flowers 
in  ovate  spikes,  about  the  size  of  large  pine  cones.  It  is 
an  herbaceous  plant;  but  in  the  warmest  part  of  the  hot- 
house retains  its  splendid  foliage ;  requires  a  very  liberal 
supply  of  water,  and  ought  to  be  in  every  collection.  (Soil 
No.  11.) 

Cdnnas,  about  thirty  species,  several  of  them  deserving 
cultivation  both  for  flower  and  foliage :  they  are  principally 
natives  of  the  West  Indies,  and  might  all  be  easily  obtained. 
The  finest  are  C.  gigdntea,  has  large  leaves  and  orange 
flowers;  C.  limbata,  flowers  scarlet  and  yellow;  C.  dis- 
color, has  large  cordate,  acuminate  leaves  of  a  crimson 
colour,  the  flowers  are  scarlet;  C.  iridiflora,  has  large  crim-' 
son  nodding  flowers,  very  different  from  any  of  the  others, 
and  the  finest  of  the  genus.  They  all,  while  in  a  growing 
state,  require  a  liberal  supply  of  water;  and  being  herba- 
ceous plants,  watering  ought  to  be  given  up  about  the  first 
of  November,  and  renewed  in  February,  thus  giving  them 
a  cessation  which  they  require  to  flower  freely ;  but  when 
water  is  constantly  given,  which  is  the  general  plan  in  our 


May.~]  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  155 

collections,  they  continue  to  push  weak  shoots  and  few 
flowers.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Cactus.  This  extensive  genus  is  interesting,  and  varied 
in  character  and  habit ;  it  is  now  divided  into  seven  distinct 
genera,  according  to  their  natural  appearance  and  disposi- 
tion. We  will  describe  a  few  of  each  genus,  none  of  which 
going  under  the  name  of  Cactus,  we  will  give  them  the 
six  following,  premising  that  the  time  is  not  far  distant 
when  this  family  will  be  successfully  cultivated  in  every 
parlour  window,  and  the  whole  tribe  will  be  sought  for 
with  more  avidity  than  any  other  class  of  plants  that  have 
ever  been  brought  to  notice,  not  even  excepting  the  Rose. 
They  require  a  dry  heat,  and  will  grow  either  in  town  or 
country,  and  are  completely  adapted  for  the  denizen  ama- 
teur, and  will  afford  more  beauty  and  interesting  display 
than  can  be  imagined  until  witnessed. 

Mamillarias,  about  seventy  species,  and  are  those  which 
are  covered  with  roundish  bearded  tubercles,  and  with 
small  red  and  Avhite  flowers.  M.  coccinea,  M.  simplex, 
M.  pusllla,  M.  cornea,  M.  stellata,  and  M.  acanthophleg- 
ma,  are  good  species,  and  will  do  well  with  water  once  a 
week  during  summer.  (Soil  No.  15.) 

Melocactus,  seven  species,  and  are  those  that  are  roundish 
with  deep  and  many  angles,  with  spines  in  clusters  on  the 
top  of  the  angle.  M.  commiinis  is  the  Turk's  cap,  named 
from  having  an  ovate  conate  crown  upon  the  top,  from 
which  proceed  the  small  red  flowers.  M.  macranthus  has 
large  spines ;  M.  pyramiddlis  is  a  conical  growing  spe- 
cies. These  require  the  same  treatment  as  the  last.  (Soil 
No.  15.) 

Echinocdtus,  a  great  number  of  species;  are  those  that 
have  many  deep  angles,  and  have  a  remarkable  swelling, 
with  each  parcel  of  spines ;  E.  gibbosus,  E.  crispatus,  E. 
recurvus,  P.  rodanthia,  and  E.  scopa,  are  curious  in  ap- 
pearance, with  small  white  and  purple  flowers.  These 
three  genera  in  most  collections  are  not  well  known  speci- 
fically, but  it  is  easy  to  discriminate  with  which  genus  they 
are  connected.  (Soil  No.  15.) 

Cereus.  This  is  the  most  magnificent  genus  with  re- 
gard to  the  magnitude  and  beauty  of  the  flowers,  but  not 
so  closely  allied  in  character.  It  takes  in  all  those  of  a 
trailing  or  erect  growing  habit,  having  spines  in  clusters, 


156  HOT-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING,  &C. 

solitary,  or  spineless.  C.  senllis  is  the  celebrated  monkey 
cactus.  C.  peruvianus  and  C.  heptagonus  grow  very 
erect,  and  to  the  height  of  thirty  or  forty  feet  in  Peru  and 
Mexico,  where  they  plant  them  close  together  as  fences, 
and  they  are  in  a  few  years  impenetrable.  C.flagelli- 
formis  is  a  well-known  creeping  flowering  species, hasten 
angles ;  will  keep  in  a  good  green-house,  and  produce  in 
May  and  June  a  great  number  of  blooms.  The  petals  are 
of  a  fine  pink  and  red  colour ;  the  tube  of  the  flower  is 
long,  and  will  stand  a  few  days  in  perfection,  when  others 
come  out  successively  for  the  space  of  two  months,  and 
during  their  continuance  make  a  brilliant  appearance.  C. 
grandiflbrus  is  the  celebrated  "  Night-blooming  Cereus." 
The  flowers  are  very  large,  beautiful  and  sweet-scented. 
They  begin  to  open  about  sun-down,  and  are  fully  expand- 
ed about  eleven  o'clock.  The  corolla,  or  rather  calyx,  is 
from  seven  to  ten  inches  in  diameter,  the  outside  of  which 
is  a  brown,  and  the  inside  a  fine  straw  yellow  colour ;  the 
petals  are  of  the  purest  white,  with  the  stamens  surround- 
ing the  stile  in  the  centre  of  the  flower,  which  add  to  its 
lustre,  and  make  it  appear  like  a  bright  star.  Its  scent  is 
agreeable,  and  perfumes  the  air  to  a  considerable  distance; 
bat  these  beauties  are  of  momentary  duration.  By  sun- 
rise they  fade,  and  hang  down  quite  decayed,  and  never 
open  again.*  One  of  these  ought  to  be  in  every  collec- 
tion, and,  if  trained  up  a  naked  wall,  will  not  occupy  much 
room,  and  grow  and  flower  profusely.  C.  mallisoni  and  C. 
scoftii  are  nearly  alike,  and  have  beautiful  scarlet  flowers  : 
it  has  been  gratuitously  (to  say  the  least  of  it)  called  "  The 
Scarlet  Night-blooming  Cereus."  C.  speciosissimus  has 
most  beautiful  large  flowers,  about  six  inches  in  diameter  ; 
the  outside  petals  are  a  bright  scarlet,  those  of  the  inside 
a  fine  light  purple.  One  flower  lasts  a  few  days,  and  a 
large  plant  will  produce  every  year  from  ten  to  fifty 
flowers,  and  blooming  from  May  to  August.  It  has  flow- 
ered in  some  of  our  collections,  and  is  highly  esteemed. 
C.  triangularis  has  the  largest  flower  of  the  Cactex  family ; 
the  bloom  is  of  a  cream  colour,  and  about  one  foot  in  dia- 

*  They  may  be  preserved  if  cut  off  when  in  perfection,  and  put 
in  spirits  of  wine,  in  a  glass  vase,  made  air  tight.  A  plant  flow- 
ered in  our  collection,  in  May,  1830,  at  12  o'clock  at  noon— the 
only  instance  of  the  kind  we  ever  heard  of. 


May."}  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  157 

meter.  In  its  indigenous  state  it  produces  a  fine  fruit  called 
"  Strawberry  Pear,"  and  is  much  esteemed  in  the  West 
Indies  as  being  slightly  acid,  and,  at  the  same  time,  sweet, 
pleasant  and  cooling. 

Epiphyllums  are  those  species  of  the  Cactese  family 
which  have  flat  shoots,  or  leaves  without  spines  ;  from  the 
edges  of  those  leaves  the  flowers  are  produced.  They  are 
extensively  cultivated  for  their  profusion  of  bloom,  and  are 
frequently  grafted  on  Cereus  trianguldris  and  Pereskia, 
which  greatly  promotes  their  growth,  and  prevents  them 
from  so  easily  damping  off  by  over  watering.  The  original 
species  are  E.  speciosum,  pink ;  E.  phylanthoides  or  Hook- 
erii,  white;  E.  aldtum,  white;  E.  truncdtum,  scarlet; 
flowers  tubular,  from  two  to  three  inches  in  diameter. 
The  plant  is  of  a  very  dwarf  growth,  and  much  branched ; 
when  in  bloom,  it  is  o^uite  a  picture,  and  rendered  more 
beautiful  when  grafted.  There  is  also  a  variety  of  it  called 
E.  truncation  *ftlfensteinii,  the  flower  of  which  is  rather 
larger,  and  is  more  rosy  coloured.  E.  Rmsellidnum  is 
quite  a  new  species,  but  has  not  yet  bloomed  in  our  collec- 
tions ;  it  is  represented  as  being  a  beautiful  large  crimson, 
and  of  the  truncdta  habits.  E.  Jlckermania  has  a  magni- 
ficent large  crimson  flower.  Besides  these,  there  are  many 
superb  hybrid  varieties,  vying  with  any  of  the  originals. 
Among  them  are  the  following:  E.  Hibbertii,  E.  Hoodii, 
E.  Boydii,  E.  De  vduxii,  E.  quillardittii,  E.  Feastii,  E. 
Vdndesii,  E.  Mayfly,  E.  elegantissima,  and  E.  Naiperii, 
and  no  doubt  many  other  varieties  and  sub-varieties  will 
be  continually  making  their  appearance.  All  the  Epi- 
phyllum  tribe  require  a  very  rich^open  soil,  not  of  too  sandy 
a  nature,  as  they  thereby  grow  to  wood,  and  bloom  but 
sparingly — give  plenty  of  drainage.  (Soil  No.  18.) 

Opiintias,  upwards  of  fifty  species,  and1  are  those  whose 
branches  are  in  thick  joints,  flat,  oblong,  or  ovate ;  spines 
solitary  or  in  clusters.  Some  of  the  plants  are  very  desi- 
rable for  their  singular  appearance,  and  some  of  them,  par- 
ticularly O.  cochinillifera,  are  valuable  for  feeding  the  Co- 
chineal insect.  O.  microddsys,  O.  ferox,  O.  lacte-spina, 
O.  sericed,  and  some  others,  are  beautiful  plants,  and  will 
grow  in  any  kind  of  soil,  but  No.  2  will  suit  them  best. 

Pereskias.  About  four  species,  and  those  that  are  of  a 
shrubby  nature,  producing  leaves ;  P.  antJedta  bears  a  fruit 
14 


158  .  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  [May. 

called  "  Barbadoes-gooseberry."  The  flowers  are  very 
small  and  simple,  spines  about  half  an  inch  long,  leaves 
fleshy  and  elliptical.  (Soil  No.  2.) 

The  whole  of  the  plants  in  the  family  of  Cactese  require 
very  little  water  in  winter,  and  delight  in  a  dry,  warm 
situation.  They  do  not  agree  with  very  frequent  repot- 
ting; once  a  year  to  young  plants,  and  in  two  or  three  to 
those  that  are  established,  with  the  exception  of  the  large, 
free  flowering  species,  which  should  be  repotted  once  in 
two  years,  and  never  be  allowed  to  shrink  for  want  of 
moisture. 

The  operation  of  grafting  is  very  simple,  merely  requir- 
ing an  incision  to  be  made,  and  fitting  in  it  a  fresh  cutting 
of  another  kind,  holding  the  cutting  stationary  in  the  inci- 
sion half  a  minute,  till  the  juices  of  the  two  adhere  toge- 
ther, when  it  may  be  said  the  union  is  effected,  and,  in 
a  few  weeks,  the  new  branches  will  grow  freely.  We 
have  seen  the  Mammillaria  tribe  growing  neatly  upon  the 
triangidaris,  and  other  species  of  the  cereus. 

Carissa,  a  genus  of  pretty  little  plants,  particularly  C. 
spindntm,  which  bears  a  profusion  of  white  flowers  like  a 
jasmine.  (Soil  No.  4.) 

Ceropegia  elegans  is  the  only  species  of  any  merit :  it 
is  a  thin  growing,  climbing  plant,  producing  a  great  pro- 
fusion of  very  curious  flowers  of  a  greenish  colour,  spotted 
with  brown;  the  interior  and  tips  of  the  corolla  are  set 
with  hairs — it  is  of  very  easy  culture.  (Soil  No.  7.) 

Caryota.  A  genus  of  palms.  C.  urens  is  an  admired 
species,  produces  flowers  in  long  pendulous  spikes,  which 
are  succeeded  by  strings  of  succulent  globular  berries.  In 
its  native  state  it  produces  a  sweet  liquor  in  large  quanti- 
ties, and  no  stronger  than  water.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Caryophyllus  aromdticus  is  the  clove  tree  of  commerce. 
The  whole  plant  is  aromatic,  and  closely  allied  to  Myrtus; 
the  flowers  are  in  loose  panicles,  the  leaves  oblong,  acumi- 
nate, entire.  It  is  a  fine  evergreen.  Pots  must  be  well 
drained.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Cerberas.  About  twelve  species  of  strong  growing  trees, 
full  of  poisonous  juice.  C.  thevetia  is  an  elegant  plant,  with 
acuminate  leaves,  and  large,  nodding,  yellow,  solitary  fra- 
grant flowers,  proceeding  from  the  axil;  C.  ahouai  pro- 
duces a  nut  which  is  deadly  poison.  C.  odallatn,  once  C. 


May.~]  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  159 

manghas,  has  large  star-like  flowers,  white,  shaded  with 
red.  They  are  principally  East  India  plants,  and  require 
great  heat.  (Soil  No.  17.) 

Clerodendrum.  This  genus  contains  some  very  beau- 
tiful and  fragrant  plants;  C.  frdgrans  JJore  plena  has  a 
very  beautiful  head  of  double  white  sweet-scented  flowers, 
and  does  tolerably  well  as  a  green-house  plant;  C.  squa- 
mdtum  has  very  showy  scarlet  flowers.  C.  speciosissimum, 
the  plant  so  glaringly  figured  in  some  of  the  English  peri- 
odicals, is  the  same  as  C.  squamdtum,  a  plant  which  has 
been  grown  in  this  vicinity  fifteen  or  twenty  years.  (Soil 
No.  2.) 

Coffea  Arabica.  It  produces  the  celebrated  coffee,  and 
is  a  plant  universally  known  in  our  collections,  and  of  easy 
culture.  The  leaves  are  opposite,  oblong,  wavy  and  shin- 
ing, the  flowers  white,  of  a  grateful  odour,  but  of  a  short 
duration.  (Soil  No.  17.) 

Combretums.  Nine  species  of  beautiful  flowering  climb- 
ing plants,  standing  in  very  high  estimation.  The  feaves 
of  the  principal  part  of  them  are  ovate,  acute,  flowers  small, 
but  on  large  branches,  the  flowers  all  coming  out  on  one 
side  of  the  branch.  They  have  a  magnificent  effect.  C. 
elegans,  red ;  C.  formosum,  red  and  yellow  ;  C.  pulchel- 
lum,  scarlet;  C.  comosum,  have  crimson  flowers  in  tufts; 
C,  purpureum  is  the  most  splendid  of  the  genus.  It  was 
first  cultivated  in  1818,  and  so  much  admired  that  the 
whole  of  the  species,  as  soon  as  introduced,  was  extrava- 
gantly bought  up ;  and  none  of  them  has  retained  their 
character,  except  C.  purpureum,  which  is  now  called 
Poivrea  coccinea.  The  flowers  are  bright  scarlet,  in  large 
branches,  blooming  profusely  from  April  to  September,  and 
flower  best  in  a  pot.  When  planted  in  the  ground,  it 
grows  too  much  to  wood,  carrying  a  few  flowers.  This 
plant  ought  to  be  in  every  hot-house.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Coryphas,  (Large  fan  Palm,)  five  species  of  the  most 
noble  and  magnificent  of  palms.  C.  ambraculifera,  the 
fronds  or  leaves  are  palmate.  In  Ceylon,  where  the  tree 
is  indigenous,  they  are  frequently  found  fifteen  feet  wide 
and  twenty  feet  long.  Knox  says  they  will  cover  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  men,  and,  when  dried,  will  fold  up  in  the 
shape  of  a  rod,  and  can  be  easily  carried  about,  and  serve 
to  protect  them  from  the  scorching  sun.  C.  taliera,  now 


160  HOT-HOUSE OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  [May. 

Taliera  bengalensis,  being  stronger,  is  of  great  utility  for 
covering  houses.  They  do  not  grow  to  such  immense 
extent  in  artificial  cultivation,  but  require  large  houses  to 
grow  them.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Crinums,  about  one  hundred  species,  chiefly  stove  bulbs, 
many  of  them  beautiful.  Those  that  are  of  great  celebrity 
are  C.  erubescens,  pink ;  C.  scabrum,  crimson  and  white ; 
C.  amabile,  purple  and  white ;  the  neck  of  the  bulb  of  the 
latter  is  long,  is  easily  distinguished  by  its  purplish  colour, 
and  is  unquestionably  the  finest  of  the  genus.  Several 
specimens  of  it  are  in  our  collections.  Their  flowers  are 
in  umbels,  on  a  stalk  about  three  feet  high ;  corolla  funnel- 
shaped  ;  petals  recurved ;  nearly  fifty  flowers  on  each  stem, 
and  a  good  plant  will  produce  three  stems  in  one  year. 
They  require  large  pots  to  make  them  flower  well,  and, 
when  growing,  should  be  liberally  supplied  with  water. 
(Soil  No.  12.) 

Crotons.  About  twenty-eight  species,  few  of  them  de- 
serving cultivation;  but  the  genus  is  celebrated  for  its  beau- 
tiful C.  pictus,  leaves  oblong-lanceolate,  variegated  .with 
yellow,  and  stained  with  red,  flowers  small  green,  or  axil- 
lary spikes.  C.  variegatus,  variety  latifolia,  is  finer  than 
the  original  variegatus;  the  nerves  in  the  leaves  are  yel- 
low, and  the  leaves  lanceolate,  entire,  and  smooth.  To 
make  them  grow  freely,  give  them  the  warmest  part  of  the 
hot-house,  and  drain  the  pots  well.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Cycas,  four  species,  generally  called  Sago  palm,  as  an 
English  name.  The  plant  from  which  Sago  is  extracted 
belongs  to  another  genus,  (see  Sagus.}  C.  revoluta  is  a 
well  known  palm,  and  will  keep  perfectly  well  in  the 
green-house.  We  have  seen  a  beautiful  specimen  of  it 
which  is  kept  every  winter  in  the  cellar ;  but  those  that  are 
kept  so  cool  in  winter  only  grow  every  alternate  year,  while 
those  that  are  kept  in  the  hot-house  grow  every  year,  which 
shows  that  heat  is  their  element.  C.  drdnulis  is  a  large 
growing  species ;  the  fronds  are  much  longer,  but  not  so 
close  and  thick.  C.  glauca  is  a  fine  species;  the  foliage 
is  slightly  glaucous.  They  require  plenty  of  pot  room,  are 
much  infested  with  the  small  white  scaly  insect,  and  ought 
to  be  frequently  examined  and  carefully  washed  as  pre- 
scribed in  January.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Cypripedium  insigne  is  a  very  beautiful  nepal  species 


May."}  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  161 

of  this  curious  Ladies'  slipper  plant.  The  flowers  have  a 
waxy  appearance,  and  very  much  in  shape  of  an  Indian 
shoe ;  the  colours  are  green  and  purple :  it  likes  a  moist, 
half  shaded  situation.  (Soil  No.  16.) 

Cyrtoceras  reflexa,  or  Hoya  coriacea,  a  new  dwarf  wax- 
plant  of  magnificent  appearance,  either  for  foliage  or  bloom, 
which  it  produces  in  great  profusion  from  the  axils  of 
almost  every  leaf;  it  is  a  native  of  Manilla ;  it  grows  freely 
in  Soil  No.  13. 

Dracaenas,  Dragon-tree,  about  twelve  species  of  Asiatic 
plants,  varied  in  character.  D.  Ferrea  is  plentiful  in  our 
collections,  and  will  keep  in  the  green-house ;  but  the  foli- 
age is  not  so  well  retained  as  when  kept  in  the  hot-house : 
the  leaves  are  lanceolate,  acute,  of  a  dark  crimson  colour. 

D.  termindlis,  striped  leaved ;  D.fragrans,  when  in  bloom, 
will  scent  the  air  for  a  considerable  distance,  leaves  green 
and  lanceolate.     D.  margindta  is  rare,  yet  it  is  to  be  seen 
in  a  few  of  our  collections.    D.  stricta  is  now  Charlwoodia* 
stricta,  flowers  blush,  and  in  loose  panicles.     D.  Draco  is 
admired,  and  the  most  conspicuous  of  the  genus.     (Soil 
No.  11.) 

Erdnthemums,  about  ten  species.     E.  pulchellum  and 

E.  bicolor  are  the  finest  of  the  genus ;  the  former  is  in  our 
collections.     Plenty  of  heat  is  indispensable  to  make  it 
flower  in  perfection ;  therefore  it  should  have  the  warmest 
part  of  the  house,  and  it  will  produce  flowers  of  a  fine  blue 
colour  from  December  to  April.     The  flowers  of  the  latter 
are  white  and  dark  purple,  with  a  few  brown  spots  in  the 
white;  blooms  from  April  to  August.     Drain  the  pots  well, 
and  give  the  plants  little  sun  during  summer.     (Soil  No. 
11.) 

Eugenias,  about  thirty  species,  esteemed  for  their  hand- 
some evergreen  foliage.  This  genus  once  contained  a  few 
celebrated  species,  which  have  been  divided.  (See  Jam- 
bosa.}  The  Allspice  tree,  known  as  Myrtus  Pimenta,  is 
now  E.  Pimenta;  the  leaves  are  ovate,  lanceolate,  and, 
when  broken,  have  an  agreeable  scent.  There  are  several 
varieties,  all  of  the  same  spicy  fragrance.  The  plant  is  in 
very  few  of  our  collections.  E.fragrans  is  sweet-scented ; 

•  *  In  honour  of  Mr.  Chart  wood,  an  extensive  seedsman  of  London, 
who  has  made  several  botanical  excursions  on  this  continent. 

u* 


168  HOT-HOUSE—- OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  \Ma\). 

the  flowers  are  on  axillary  peduncles  ;  leaves  ovate,  obtuse. 
(Soil  No.  11.) 

Euphorbia,  (spurge,)  a  genus  of  plants  disseminated  over 
every  quarter  of  the  globe ;  a  few  are  beautiful,  many  gro- 
tesque, and  several  the  most  worthless  weeds  on  the  earth. 
There  are  about  two  hundred  species,  and  from  all  of  them, 
when  probed,  a  thick  milky  fluid  exudes.  Those  of  the 
tropics  are  the  most  curious,  and  very  similar  in  appear- 
ance to  Cactus,  but  easily  detected  by  the  above  perfora- 
tion. There  is  a  magnificent  species  in  our  collections, 
which  was  lately  introduced  from  Mexico— (see  Poinset- 
tia.)  E.  splendens  flowers  freely  from  December  to  May, 
and  is  of  easy  culture.  E.fiilgens,same  asjaquiniifldra, 
is  a  plant  of  a  slender  willow-looking  habit,  but  produces  a 
profusion  of  flowers  from  the  axil  of  each  leaf,  which  ren- 
ders it  very  showy.  The  flowers  of  the  whole  genus  are 
apetalous,  and  the  beauty  of  those  described  is  in  a  brilliant 
scarlet  bractea,  which  is  very  persistent.  They  must  have 
plenty  of  pot-room.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Erythrinas,  (Coral  tree,)  a  genus  containing  about  thirty 
species  of  leguminose,  scarlet-flowering  plants.  Several 
species  are  greatly  esteemed  for  their  beauty  and  profusion 
of  flowers,  which,  in  well-established  plants,  are  produced 
in  long  spikes.  E.  corallodendrum  blooms  magnificently 
in  the  West  Indies,  but  in  our  collections  has  never  flow- 
ered. Perhaps  if  it  were  kept  dry  during  its  dormant 
season,  which  is  from  November  to  January,  and  when 
growing  greatly  encouraged,  it  might  produce  flowers.  E. 
speciosa  is  a  splendid  flowerer,  leaves  large,  ternated,  and 
prickly  beneath;  stem  prickly.  E.  pubescens  is  valued 
for  its  large  peculiar  brown  pubescent  leaves.  E.  princeps 
is  quite  a  new  species,  and  is  represented  as  being  the 
finest  of  all  the  Erythrinas,  and  exhibits  its  rich  crimson 
flowers  in  great  profusion ;  to  make  them  grow  well  and 
bloom  freely,  they  require  plenty  of  pot-room;  indeed, 
while  in  a  growing  state,  they  should  be  repotted  every 
month.  In  regard  to  E.  herbdcea,  which  is  a  native  of  the 
Carolinas,  and  frequently  treated  as  a  hot-house  plant,  it  is 
our  opinion  that  it  would  be  more  perfectly  grown  if  planted 
about  the  first  of  the  month  in  the  garden ;  and,  when  grow- 
ing, if  well  supplied  with  water,  it  would  flower  from  July 
to  September.  About  the  first  of  November  lift  the  roots 


May.']  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  163 

and  preserve  them  in  half  dry  earth.     E.  laurifblia  and 

E.  cristagdlli  are  likewise  often  treated  as  hot-house  plants, 
and  in  such  situations  they  cast  prematurely  their  first 
flowers  by  the  confined  state  of  the  air.     They  will  keep 
in  perfect  preservation  during  winter  in  a  dry  cellar,  half 
covered  with  earth,  or  entirely  covered  with  half  dry  earth ; 
consequently,  the  hest  and  easiest  method  of  treatment  is, 
to  plant  them  in  the  garden  about  the  first  of  May,  and, 
when  growing,  if  the  ground  becomes  dry,  give  them  fre- 
quent waterings.    They  will  flower  profusely,  three  or  four 
times  in  the  course  of  the  summer. 

We  freely  recommend  the  last  species  to  all  our  patrons, 
confident  that  it  will  give  ample  satisfaction,  both  in  profu- 
sion of  flower  and  beauty  of  colour.  The  soil  they  are  to 
be  planted  into  should  be  rich  and  well  pulverized ;  or,  if 
they  are  kept  in  pots,  they  must  be  enlarged  three  or  four 
times,  when  they  are  in  a  growing  state,  to  make  them 
flower  perfectly  ;  otherwise  they  will  be  diminutive.  (Soil 
No.  13.) 

Ficus,  Fig-tree,  a  genus  containing  about  fifty  hot-house 
species,  besides  several  that  belong  to  the  green-house: 
greatly  admired  for  the  beauty  of  their  foliage.  A  few  of 
them  are  deciduous,  and  all  of  the  easiest  culture.  We 
have  seen  plants  of  J1.  eldstica  hung  in  the  back  of  the  hot- 
house, without  the  smallest  particle  of  earth,  their  only 
support  being  sprinklings  of  water  every  day.  F.  brdssii 
and  F.  macrophylla  are  the  finest-looking  species  that  have 
come  under  our  observation ;  the  leaves  of  both  are  very 
large  and  shading,  occupying  considerable  space.  In  small 
collections  F.  indlca  and  F,  nitida  are  desirable ;  F.  repens 
is  a  climbing  plant.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Franciscea,  a  ne\v  genus  of  plants  from  South  America, 
containing  about  four  species  of  profuse  blooming  plants. 

F.  Hopeana  and  F.  latifolia  are  generally  known;  the 
latter  possesses  all  the  combined  fragrance  of  the  jasmine 
and  jonquil ;  the  flowers  are  one  inch  in  diameter,  of  a 
rich  purple  fading  to  pure  white,  and  blooms  the  whole 
winter.     (Soil  No.  9.) 

Gardenias,  a  genus  containing  about  seventeen  species, 
several  of  them  very  popular  in  our  collections,  going  under 
the  name  of  Cape  Jasmine,  which  do  well  in  the  green- 
house, (see  May.)  The  species  requiring  this  department, 


164  HOT-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  [May. 

and  deserving  attention,  are  G.  campanulata,  of  a  soft 
woody  nature,  with  ovate,  acuminate  leaves ;  flowers  of  a 
straw  colour,  and  solitary ;  G.  amaena,  the  flowers  are  white, 
tinged  with  crimson,  terminal  and  solitary,  but  seldom 
bloom ;  G.  costata,  admired  for  its  beautiful  ribbed  foli- 
age; G.  lucida  has  a  handsome,  ovate,  acuminate,  shining 
foliage,  flowers  white  and  solitary ;  they  require  to  have 
the  pots  well  drained.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Geissomeria  longiflbra.  This  is  a  new  genus,  and 
closely  allied  to  Ruellia.  The  species  alluded  to,  is  a  free 
flowerer,  blooming  from  January  to  May,  in  close  spikes  of 
a  scarlet  colour;  leaves  opposite,  ovate,  elongate,  and  shin- 
ing ;  the  plants  must  be  well  drained,  and  in  summer  kept 
from  the  direct  influence  of  the  sun.  (Soil  No.  2.) 

Heliconia  braziliensis.  This  very  splendid  plant  is 
nearly  related  to  Strelilzia,  and  in  splendour  surpasses  it. 
The  brilliant  scarlet  sheath  that  envelops  the  flowers,  con- 
trasts most  admirably  with  its  rich  green  leaves.  Give 
plenty  of  drainage  to  the  pots,  and,  when  the  plants  are 
growing,  give  a  liberal  supply  of  water.  (Soil  No.  17.) 

Helitropiums,  about  twelve  species,  of  little  merit,  except 
H.  peruvianum,  H.  corymbosum,  and  H.  grandiflorum  ; 
these  are  all  very  agreeably  scented,  especially  the  former, 
which  is  a  universal  favourite.  (Soil  No.  3.) 

Heritiera  littoralis,  looking-glass  plant.  This  plant  is 
unisexual,  has  beautiful  large,  ovate,  veiny  leaves ;  the 
flowers  are  small,  red,  with  male  and  female  on  the  same 
plant,  but  different  flowers.  It  requires  a  strong  heat  and 
plenty  of  pot-room.  How  the  English  name  becomes  ap- 
plicable to  it,  we  are  not  acquainted. 

Hibiscus.  This  genus  affords  many  fine  species  and 
varieties  of  plants  for  the  hot-house,  besides  others  for 
every  department  of  the  garden.  The  most  popular  in  our 
collections  of  the  hot-house,  is  H.  rosa  sinensis,  with  its 
varieties,  which  are  magnificent,  and  flower  profusely  from 
February  to  September.  The  single  or  original  species  is 
also  beautiful;  the  varieties  are  H.  rosa  sinensis  rubro 
plenus,  double  red;  H.  r.  s.  cdrnea  plenus,  double  salmon; 
H.  r.  s.  variegdtus,  double  striped ;  striped  on  the  back  of 
the  outside  petals ;  H.  r.  s.  fldva-plenus,  or  cornea,  double 
buff;  H.  r.  s.  lutea  plenus,  double  yellow,  or  rather  sul- 
phur. The  plants  grow  freely,  and  produce  their  flowers 


May.~]  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  165 

three  or  four  inches  in  diameter,  from  the  young  wood;  the 
leaves  are  ovate,  acuminate,  smooth,  entire  at  the  base, 
and  coarsely  teethed  at  the  end.  All  the  varieties  are  of 
the  same  character,  and  highly  deserving  of  a  situation 
in  every  collection.  There  is  said  to  be  a  double  white 
variety,  which  we  doubt.  H.  mutabilis  fibre,  plena  is  a 
splendid  plant,  of  strong  growth,  and  will,  when  well  esta- 
blished, flower  abundantly,  if  the  wood  of  last  year  is  cut 
to  within  a  few  eyes  of  the  wood  of  the  previous  year ;  the 
flowers  are  produced  on  the  young  wood,  and  come  out  a 
pale  colour,  and  change  to  bright  red,  and  about  the  size 
of  a  garden  Provins  rose  ;  leaves  downy,  cordate,  angular, 
five-lobed,  acuminate,  and  slightly  indented.  H.  lillii- 
florus  is  a  new  highly  esteemed  species ;  the  flowers  are 
various  in  colour,  being  pink,  blush,  red,  and  purple.  The 
leaves  vary  in  character,  but  are  generally  cordate,  crenate, 
acuminate ;  the  petioles  are  brown,  and  the  whole  slightly 
hirsute  ;  is  deciduous,  and  requires  to  be  kept  in  the  warm- 
est part  of  the  house.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Hoyas,  wax-plant,  seven  species.  All  of  them  are 
climbing  succulents,  requiring  plenty  of  heat  and  little 
water.  H.  carnosa  is  the  finest  flowering  species  of  the 
genus,  and  known  in  our  collections  as  the  wax-plant ;  the 
leaves  are  green  and  fleshy ;  the  flowers  are  mellifluous, 
five-parted,  and  in  pendulous  bunches,  slightly  bearded, 
and  have  every  appearance  of  a  composition  of  the  finest 
wax ;  of  a  blush  colour.  H.  crassifolia  has  the  best-look- 
ing foliage,  and  the  flowers  are  white.  The  former  will 
keep  in  the  green-house,  but  will  not  flower  so  profusely. 
(Soil  No.  2.) 

Ipomaeas,  a  genus  of  tropical  climbing  plants,  nearly  allied 
to  Convolvulus,  but  of  greater  beauty.  /.  Jdlapa  is  the 
true  jalap  of  the  druggists,  but  not  worthy  of  any  other 
remark.  /.  Horsfdllia  has  brilliant  rosy  crimson  flowers, 
which  it  is  almost  entirely  covered  with  from  December  to 
May.  /.  rugosa  has  a  profusion  of  large  rosy  lilac  flowers. 
/.  multiflora,  blush  and  lilac.  /.  Learii  produces  a  profu- 
sion of  large  blue  flowers ;  they  are  all  very  showy  and 
beautiful  ornaments  for  either  the  hot-house  or  the  flower 
garden.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Ismene  amancaes,  or  Pancratium  amdncaes.  This  pro- 
fuse yellow  flowering  bulb  is  richly  deserving  of  cultiva- 


166  HOT-HOUSE-^-OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  [May. 

tion,  and  should  be  kept  in  the  house  all  summer,  repotting 
it  as-often  as  the  roots  touch  the  interior  side  of  the  pot, 
giving  it  plenty  of  water  when  in  a  growing  state;  but 
when  dormant,  it  must  be  kept  dry  till  it  offers  to  grow : 
when  well  treated,  it  will  bloom  repeatedly  during  summer. 
(Soil  No.  12.) 

Ixoras,  a  genus  of  fine  flowering  plants,  and  does  ex- 
tremely well  in  our  collections  in  comparison  to  the  state 
they  are  grown  in  England.  The  genus  specifically  is 
much  confused  among  us,  either  from  error  originating 
with  those  who  packed  them  for  this  country,  or  after  they 
have  arrived.  /.  purpurea,  leaves  oblong,  ovate,  blunt; 
flowers  crimson ;  it  is  now  called  /.  obovuta.  I.  crocata, 
leaves  oval,  lanceolate,  narrowing  toward  the  stem,  smooth 
underside  of  the  leaf;  the  nerves  are  very  perceptible ;  flow- 
ers saffron-coloured,  arid  very  profuse.  /.  rosea,  leaves 
large,  regular,  oblong,  a  little  acute,  very  distant  on  the 
wood,  central  nerve  strong ;  flowers  rose-coloured  in  large 
corymbs,  branching  finely  ;  /.  bandhuca,  leaves  very  close 
to  the  stem,  ovate,  acuminate ;  nerves  straight,  middle 
nerve  stronger  than  any  other  of  the  genus  ;  flowers  scarlet. 
/.  bldnda,  leaves  small,  lanceolate,  ovate  ;  flowers  blush, 
cymes  branching  in  three.  /.  dichotima,  leaves  largest  of 
the  genus,  ovate,  acuminate,  undulate  footstalk  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch  long ;  whereas,  none  of  the  leaves  of  the 
other  species  have  footstalks  of  any  length ;  it  is  now  called 
/.  undulata;  flowers  are  white.  /.  grandiflora,  leaves 
ovate,  elongate,  sessile  ;  flowers  scarlet,  in  crowded  round 
corymbs ;  is  called  I.  coccinea  in  the  Botanical  Magazine, 
by  which  it  is  known  in  our  collections,  and  we  think  is 
the  same  as  L  stricta.  I.  flammta  and  1.  spedosa.  I. 
fulgens,  same  as  /.  longifolia  and  /.  lanceolata;  foliage 
glossy ;  flowers  scarlet.  /.  Pavetta,  the  flowers  are  white 
and  sweet-scented,  the  leaves  of  all  the  species  are  oppo- 
site ;  there  are  a  few  other  species  that  we  are  not  thoroughly 
acquainted  with,  but  have  been  thus  explicit  to  prevent 
error  as  far  as  possible  in  this  beautiful  genus.  They  are 
all  evergreen,  low  growing  shrubs;  the  plants  grow  best  in 
Jersey  black  sandy  earth,  but  flower  most  abundantly  with 
Soil  No.  10. 

Jambosas,  about  twelve  species,  which  have  been  prin- 
cipally taken  from  Eugenia,  and  contains  its  finest  plants, 


May.~]  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  167 

and  is  a  splendid  genus  of  evergreen  shrubs.  E.  Jdmbos 
is  now  Jambosa  vulgaris,  which  flowers  and  fruits  freely 
in  our  hot-houses.  The  fruit  is  about  an  inch  in  diameter, 
eatable,  and  smelling  like  a  rose,  hence  called  "  Rose 
Apple."  The  petals  of  all  the  species  are  simple,  and 
may  rather  be  considered  the  calyx ;  the  beauty  of  the 
flowers  is  in  the  many  erect  spreading  stamens,  either 
straw,  white,  rose,  or  green  colour.  J.  malaccensis,  Malay 
Apple,  is  greatly  esteemed  for  the  delightful  fragrance  of 
its  fruit.  We  frequently  see  J.  purpurdscens,  which  is  a 
native  of  the  West  Indies,  going  under  J.  m.,  which  is  an 
Asiatic  species,  with  white  flowers  and  entire  oblong  leaves ; 
whereas,  the  leaves  of  /.  p.  are  small,  ovate,  acuminate ; 
the  young  shoots  and  leaves  are  purple.  J.  macrophylla, 
white,  and  J.  amplexicaulis,  green,  have  very  large  ob- 
long, lanceolate  leaves,  and  are  of  a  strong,  woody  habit. 
They  are  all  easy  of  culture.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Jasminum,  Jasmine,  is  a  favourite  genus  of  shrubs,  for 
the  exquisite  fragrance  of  its  flowers,  of  which  none  are 
more  delightful  than  J.  sambac  or  Arabian  Jasmine.  There 
are  two  other  varieties  of  it,  J.  s.  multiplex,  perfectly 
double;  and  /.  s.  trifolialum,  double  Tuscan  Jasmine. 
The  latter  requires  a  great  heat  to  make  it  grow  and  flower 
freely.  There  is  also  a  semi-double  variety  in  cultivation. 
J.  hirsiitum  has  cordate  downy  leaves  ;  flowers  many,  in 
terminal  sessile  umbels.  /.  paniculatum,  white, flowering  in 
terminal  panicles  from  March  to  November  ;  leaves  smooth, 
oval,  obtusely  acuminate ;  plant  scarce.  J.  simplicifdlium 
is  in  our  collections  under  the  name  of  J.  lucidum;  plant 
spreading;  leaves  oblong  and  shining.  .7.  multiflorum  is 
a  profusely  flowering  and  beautiful  species.  There  are 
several  others,  all  with  white  flowers,  and  generally  easy 
of  culture.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Jdtropha,  Physic-nut,  is  a  genus  of  six  strong  growing 
shrubs,  natives  of  the  West  Indies.  J.  multifida  and  «/. 
panduraefblia  have  the  handsomest  foliage,  and  both  have 
scarlet  flowers :  the  appearance  of  the  foliage  of  this  genus 
is  the  only  object :  the  flowers  are  small,  in  coarse  disfig- 
ured panicles,  and  several  of  the  species  have  not  been 
known  to  flower  in  artificial  cultivation.  The  seeds  of  J. 
curcas  are  often  received  from  the  West  Indies;  the  leaves 
are  cordate,  angular  and  smooth.  /.  manihot,  now  Ma- 


168  HOT-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  \_May. 

nihot  cannablna,  is  the  Cassada  root,  the  juice  of  which, 
when  expressed,  is  a  strong  poison.  They  are  all  easy  of 
culture:  want  of  strong  heat  in  winter  will  make  them 
cast  their  leaves,  but  does  them  no  other  injury.  (Soil  No. 

Justida.  A  few  species  of  this  genus  are  fine  showy 
hot-house  plants.  J.  coccinea  has  large  terminal  spikes  of 
scarlet  flowers,  blooming  from  December  to  March,  and  is 
a  very  desirable  plant,  of  easy  culture,  and  should  be  in 
every  collection;  it  is  apt  to  grow  spindley,  if  not  kept 
near  the  glass.  L  picta,  with  its  varieties,  /.  ludda  and 
/.  calyctricha,  are  fine  shrubby  species.  /.  speciosa  is 
a  beautiful  profuse  purple  flowering  plant.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Ksempferia,  an  Asiatic  genus  of  tuberose  rooted  plants ; 
none  of  them  in  our  collections,  except  K.  rotunda;  the 
flowers  come  up  a  few  inches  above  the  pot,  without  the 
leaves,  in  April  and  May,  and  frequently  sooner;  they  are 
purple  and  light  blue,  partially  streaked  and  spotted ;  leaves 
large,  oblong,  purplish-coloured  beneath.  The  roots,  when 
dormant,  ought  to  be  kept  in  the  pot  without  watering, 
otherwise  they  will  not  flower  freely.  No  bulbs  nor  strong 
tuberose  rooted  plants  will  flower  in  perfection  if  kept  moist 
when  they  are  not  growing.  (Soil  No.  17.) 

Lantana,  a  genus  of  twenty  species,  all  free-flowering 
shrubs;  the  flowers  are  small,  in  round  heads  blooming 
from  the  axils,  in  yellow,  orange,  pink,  white  and  changea- 
ble colours;  principally  of  a  rough  straggling  growth,  and 
are  not  esteemed.  However,  L.  selldi,  light  purple;  L. 
mutabilis,  yellow,  orange  and  pink ;  L.  bicolor,  white  and 
pink,  and  L.  fucdta  (or  Dougldsii  of  some),  lilac  and 
white.  These  are  very  handsome  growing  plants,  and 
will  even  keep  in  a  good  green-house ;  but  in  such  case 
will  only  bloom  in  summer.  They  will  not  bear  a  strong 
fumigation;  therefore,  when  the  hot-house  is  under  that 
operation,  they  must  be  set  down  in  the  pathway,  or  other 
low  part  in  the  house.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Latanias.  This  genus  contains  three  species  of  hand- 
some palms.  L.  barbonica  is  one  of  the  finest  of  the 
Palmse,  not  growing  to  great  magnitude ;  the  leaves  or 
fronds  are  plaited  flabelliform,  leaflets  smooth  at  the  edge, 
footstalk  spiny,  and  the  plant  spreading.  L.  r libra,  fronds 
same  as  the  former,  but  leaflets  more  divided  and  serru- 
late ;  footstalk  unarmed :  foliage  reddish.  L.  glattcophylfa, 


May.~]  HOT-HOUSE— -OF  REPOTTING,  &e.  169 

same  as  L.  riibra,  only  the  foliage  glaucous.  They  are 
all  valuable  plants,  and  are  obtained  by  seed  from  the  East 
Indies.  They  require  plenty  of  pot  room.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Laurus.  This  genus,  though  of  no  beauty  in  flower,  is 
generally  admired  in  collections  for  its  fine  evergreen  foli- 
age, and  aromatic  or  spicy  flavour,  and  several  trees  are 
important  in  medicine.  The  most  esteemed  are  given  to 
a  genus  named  Cinnamomum,  as  has  been  observed  in  the 
green-house,  (see  March.)  L.  Chloroxylcn  is  the  Cogwood 
of  Jamaica.  L.  persea  is  now  Persea  gratissima,  Alliga- 
tor-pear, a  fruit  about  the  size  of  a  large  pear,  and  greatly 
esteemed  in  the  West  Indies  ;  the  plant  is  generally  known 
in  our  collections.  C.  verum  is  the  true  Cinnamon  of 
commerce. 

The  part  taken  is  the  inside  of  Uie  bark  when  the  tree  is 
from  five  to  eighteen  years  old.  The  leaves  are  three- 
nerved,  ovate,  oblong ;  nerves  vanishing  toward  the  point, 
bright  green  above,  pale  beneath,  with  whitish  veins. 
This  plant  ought  to  be  kept  in  the  warmest  part  of  the 
hot-house.  C.  cassia  is  frequently  given  under  the  former 
name,  but,  when  compared,  may  be  easily  detected  by  the 
leaves  being  more  lanceolate  and  a  little  pubescent.  They 
both  make  handsome  plants,  but  require  great  heat. 
Drain  the  pots  well  of  the  delicate  sorts.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Magnifera,  Mango  tree.  There  are  two  species.  M. 
indica  is  in  our  collections,  and  bears  a  fruit  which  is  so 
highly  esteemed  in  the  East  Indies,  as  to  be  considered 
preferable  to  any  other  except  very  fine  pine  apples.  The 
leaves  are  lanceolate,  and  from  six  to  eight  inches  long,  and 
two  or  more  broad.  The  flowers  are  produced  in  loose 
bunches  at  the  end  of  the  branches,  but  of  no  beauty,  and 
have  to  be  artificially  impregnated,  or  it  will  scarcely  pro- 
duce fruit.  The  shell  is  kidney-shaped,  and  of  a  leathery 
crustaceous  substance.  They  contain  one  seed,  and  in 
their  indigenous  state  are  more  juicy  than  an  apple. 
Drain  the  pots  well,  as  the  roots  are  apt  to  get  sodden  from 
moisture.  The  other  species  goes  under  the  name  of  op- 
positifolia,  but  we  question  if  if  is  not  only  a  variety,  for 
it  has  every  character  of  the  one  just  described.  (Soil  No. 
11.) 

Malpighia,  (Barbadoes-cherry,)  about  eighteen  species, 
all  beautiful  evergreen  trees  or  shrubs.  They  are  easily 
15 


170  HOT-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  [May. 

distinguished  by  having  bristles  on  the  underside  of  the 
leaves.  These  bristles  are  fixed  by  the  centre,  so  that 
either  end  of  it  will  sting.  We  are  not  aware  of  any  other 
plant  being  defended  in  this  manner.  M.  urens  has  oblong, 
ovate  leaves,  with  decumbent  stiff  bristles ;  flowers  pink. 
M,  aquifolia  has  lanceolate,  stiff,  spiny  leaves,  and  we  think 
the  most  beautiful  foliage  of  the  genus.  M.  fucdta  has 
elliptical  shining  leaves,  with  lilac  flowers.  M.  gldbra, 
leaves  ovate,  entire,  smooth;  flowers  purple.  They  all 
have  five  rounded  clawed  petals.  The  last  species  is  cul- 
tivated in  the  West  Indies  for  its  fruit.  The  pots  must  be 
well  drained.  (Soil  No.  17.) 

Merica,  a  genus  of  hot-house  plants,  closely  allied  to 
Iris,  between  which  there  is  no  distinction  in  the  leaves. 
The  flowers  of  M.  coeriilea  are  beautifully  spotted  with 
light  and  dark  blue,  the  scape  many-flowered.  M.  Sab\ni 
has  flowers  similar,  but  not  so  dark  in  colour.  M.  North- 
idna  has  splendid  white  and  brown  spotted  flowers,  spathe 
two-flowered.  These  plants,  when  growing,  require  a 
liberal  supply  of  water,  and  should  be  greatly  encouraged 
by  frequent  potting,  to  flower  well.  (Soil  No.  12.^ 

Meldstoma  was  once  an  extensive  genus,  on  which  the 
natural  order  Melastomacese  is  founded ;  but  is  now  much 
divided  into  other  genera  contained  in  the  natural  tribe 
Micomese.  There  are  about  thirteen  species  remaining  in 
the  genus.  They  now  display  great  unity  of  character, 
and  many  of  them  may  be  considered  very  ornamental. 
The  finest  are  M.  heteromalla,  bluish  purple,  and  an  abun- 
dant bloomer;  M.  malabdthrica,  rose-coloured;  M.  son- 
guinea,  lilac ;  M.  splendens,  large  violet ;  and  M.  dspera, 
rose.  There  is  a  plant  in  several  of  our  collections  known 
as  M.  purpurea  and  M.  tetragona,  which  is  Osssea  pur- 
purdscens  ;  leaves  ovate,  lanceolate,  acuminate,  five-nerved, 
pilose;  the  footstalk  and  nerves  underside  of  the  leaf 
covered  with  brown  hairs;  stem  four-sided;  flowers  pur- 
ple. All  the  species  are  easy  of  culture.  M.  nepalensis 
is  a  green-house  plant.  (Soil  No.  1.) 

Mandevilla  Suaveolens,or  Chili  Jasmine:  this  beautiful 
climber  is  a  native  of  South  America ;  the  flowers  are  in 
clusters  and  nearly  bell-shaped,  white,  and  of  exquisite  fra- 
grance ;  the  bloom  is  produced  on  the  extremity  of  the 
shoots.  After  the  flowering  season  the  plants  should  be 


May.']  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  171 

pruned  back  to  within  a  few  eyes  of  the  preceding  year's 
wood.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Musa,  (Plantain  tree,)  contains  eight  species,  and  is 
greatly  esteemed  in  the  East  and  West  Indies  for  the 
luscious  sweet  flavour  of  its  fruit,  which  can  be  converted 
into  every  delicacy  in  the  domestic  cookery  of  the  country. 
M.  paradisiaca  is  the  true  plantain  tree,  has  a  soft  herbace- 
ous stalk,  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  high,  with  leaves  from  five 
to  seven  feet  long,  and  about  two  feet  wide.  M.  sapientum 
is  the  true  banana  tree ;  habit  and  character  same  as  the 
former,  except  it  has  a  spotted  stem,  and  the  male  flowers 
are  deciduous.  The  pulp  of  the  fruit  is  softer,  and  the 
taste  more  luscious.  M.  roscicea,  M.  coccinea,  and  M.  chi- 
nensis,  are  more  esteemed  in  artificial  cultivation  for  their 
flowers,  and  for  being  smaller  in  growth.  M.  Cavendishii 
produces  immense  clusters  of  ripe  and  well-flavoured  fruit, 
plants  only  four  feet  and  a  half  high  ;  will  yearly  produce 
about  eighty  pounds.  M.  ddcca  is  another  dwarf  species, 
and  in  1838  ripened  a  cluster  of  fruit  in  the  Royal  Bo- 
tanic Gardens  of  Edinburgh,  which  weighed  fifty  pounds. 
These  dwarf  Bananas  are  now  being  cultivated  in  Europe 
expressly  for  their  fruit,  which  is  very  delicious  when  per- 
fectly ripened.  They  are  Chinese  plants,  and  will  soon 
be  introduced  into  the  West  India  Islands,  where  they  will 
entirely  supplant  the  large  varieties. 

Myrtus  Pimenta,  or,  more  properly,  Pimenta  Vulgdris, 
is  the  Jamaica  pepper  or  allspice  ;  there  is  no  beauty  in  the 
flowers — the  leaves  are  highly  aromatic,  and  it  is  a  hand- 
some evergreen.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Nepenthes,  (Pitcher-plant.)  There  are  two  species  of 
this  plant.  JV.  distillatoria  is  an  esteemed  and  valuable 
plant  in  European  collections,  and  we  are  not  aware  of 
there  being  any  in  this  country,  except  in  Philadelphia. 
The  leaves  are  lanceolate  and  sessile ;  from  their  extremity 
there  is  a  spiral,  attached  to  which  are  long  inflated  append- 
ages that  are  generally  half  full  of  water,  which  appears  to 
be  confined  within  them  by  a  lid  with  which  the  append- 
ages are  surmounted;  hence  the  name  of  pitcher  plant. 
We  have  never  observed  the  lids  close  again  when  once 
open.  Writers  have  called  it  an  herbaceous  plant,  but  it 
is  properly  a  climbing  shrub.  The  pot  in  which  it  grows 
should  be  covered  with  moss,  and  the  roots  liberally  sup- 


172  HOT-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING,  &C. 

plied  with  water  every  day.  It  delights  to  he  in  a  moist 
state.  The  flowers  are  small,  and  in  long  spikes.  The 
plant  is  of  easy  culture,  and  even  rapid  in  growth :  a  plant 
with  us,  only  nineteen  months  old,  is  now  five  feet  high. 
(Soil  No.  5.) 

Pancratium  is  a  genus  of  hot-house  bulbs,  and  now  only 
contains  five  species.  They  are  all  free-flowering.  Seve- 
ral of  them  are  handsome  and  fragrant.  P.  maritimum 
and  P.  vereciindum  are  the  finest ;  the  flowers  are  white, 
in  large  umbels ;  petals  long,  recurved,  and  undulate.  P. 
littoralis,  P.  speciosum,  and  P.  caribseum,  are  now  given 
to  the  genus  Hymenocallis,  and  are  fine  flowering  species. 
Care  must  be  taken  not  to  give  them  water  while  dormant. 
The  soil  ought  at  that  time  to  be  in  a  half  dry  state.  They 
are  in  flower  from  May  to  August.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Pandanus,  Screw  Pine.  There  are  about  twenty  species 
in  this  genus,  several  of  them  very  interesting,  but  none  so 
greatly  admired  as  P.  odoralissimus.  The  leaves  in  esta- 
blished plants  are  from  four  to  six  feet  long,  on  the  back 
and  edges  spiny;  are  spreading,  imbricated,  and  embracing 
the  stem,  and  placed  in  three  spiral  rows  upon  it.  The 
top  soon  becomes  heavy  when  the  plant  throws  out  prongs 
one,  two,  or  three  feet  up  the  stem  in  an  oblique  descending 
direction,  which  take  root  in  the  ground,  and  thus  become 
perfectly  supported.  It  is  cultivated  in  Japan  for  its  de- 
lightful fragrance,  and  it  is  said,  "of  all  the  perfumes,  it  is 
by  far  the  richest  and  most  powerful."  P.  utilis,  red 
spined.  We  question  this  species,  and  are  inclined  to  be- 
lieve that  it  is  the  former,  only  when  the  plants  are  newly 
raised  from  seed,  the  spines  and  leaves  are  red,  changing 
to  green  as  they  become  advanced  in  age.  The  plants 
are  easy  of  culture,  and  will  grow  almost  in  any  soil.  (Soil 
No.  12.) 

Passiflora,  "Passion-Flower,  so  named  on  account  of  its 
being  supposed  to  represent  in  the  appendages  of  its  flower 
the  Passion  of  Jesus  Christ."  There  are  about  fifty  spe- 
cies, all  climbing  plants,  that  belong  to  the  hot-house.  Many 
are  of  no  ordinary  beauty;  a  few  species  are  odoriferous; 
others  bear  edible  fruits,  though  not  rich  in  flavour.  P. 
aluta  is  in  our  collections,  and  greatly  admired ;  the  flowers 
are  red,  blue,  and  white,  beautifully  contrasted,  and  flower 
profusely  in  pots.  P.  racemosa,  red  flower.  P.  cceruleo- 


May.~]  HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  173 

racemosa,  purple.  P.  quadrangularis  has  beautiful  red 
and  white  flowers.  The  plant  is  in  several  collections,  but 
has  seldom  flowered;  it  requires  to  be  planted  in  the  ground 
to  make  it  flower  freely,  and  it  will  also  produce  fruit.  P. 
picturuta  is  a  scarce  and  beautiful  various-coloured  species. 
P.  kermesina,  bright  rosy  crimson,  and,  beyond  all  ques- 
tion, the  most  profuse  flowering  species  now  in  cultivation, 
and  will  do  well  in  a  good  green-house.  P.  Loudonii, 
bright  crimson;  P.  edulis  is  cultivated  for  its  fruit.  There 
are  many  other  fine  species,  but  these  are  the  most  es- 
teemed sorts;  and,  when  well  established,  will  flower  pro- 
fusely from  May  to  August.  They  are  desirable  in  every 
collection,  and  will  take  only  a  small  space  to  hold  them, 
by  training  the  vines  up  the  rafters  of  the  hot-house.  (Soil 
No.  13.) 

Phoenix,  Date-palm,  about  eight  species,  principally 
Asiatic  plants.  The  foliage  is  not  so  attractive  as  many 
others  of  the  palm  family,  but  it  is  rendered  interesting  by 
producing  a  well-known  fruit  called  Date.  P.  dactylifera 
will  do  very  well  in  a  common  green-house.  In  Arabia, 
Upper  Egypt,  and  Barbary,  it  is  much  used  in  domestic 
economy.  P.  paludosa  has  the  most  beautiful  foliage, 
and  the  best  habit.  The  flowers  are  dioecious.  (Soil  No. 
12.) 

Plumbago  rosea  is  a  pretty  free-blooming  plant,  with 
continued  profusion  of  red  flowers ;  it  requires  plenty  of 
heat  and  a  good  drainage.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Plumerias,  above  twenty  species.  Plants  of  a  slow 
growth,  robust  nature,  and  are  deciduous.  The  foliage  is 
greatly  admired.  The  plants  are  shy  to  flower,  but  are 
brilliant  in  colour.  P.  acuminata  has  lanceolate,  acute 
leaves,  flowers  corymbose  and  terminal.  P.  tricolor  has 
oblong,  acute,  veiny  leaves  ;  corolla  red,  yellow  and  white. 
This  and  P.  rubrd  are  the  finest  of  the  genus.  They 
ought  not  to  get  any  water  while  not  in  a  growing  state. 
(Soil  No.  11.) 

Poinsettia*  pulcherrlma.     When  well  cultivated,  this 

*  Named  by  Professor  Graham,  of  Edinburgh,  in  compliment 
to  the  Hon.  J.  R.  Poinsett,  (late  secretary  of  war,)  who  intro- 
duced the  plant  in  1828  to  this  country  from  Mexico,  while  he  was 
Minister  Plenipotentiary  to  that  Republic.  He  also,  at  the  same 
time,  introduced  a  rich  and  valuable  collection  of  Cactza. 
15* 


174  HOT-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  [May. 

is  truly  the  most  magnificent  of  all  the  tropical  plants  we 
have  ever  seen ;  from  December  to  April  it  is  crowned  with 
flowers,  surrounding  which,  are  bright  scarlet  whorls  of 
bractese,  frequently  measuring  twenty-two  inches  in  dia- 
meter. To  grow  it  to  such  perfection,  we  treat  it  as  fol- 
lows :  in  April  we  cut  the  young  wood  down  to  within  two 
inches  of  the  wood  of  the  preceding  year,  and  reduce  the 
ball  of  earth,  putting  it  into  a  smaller  pot.  About  the  end 
of  May  we  plant  it  in  the  open  ground,  in  light  rich  soil, 
giving  it  one  of  two  waterings  after  planting.  During 
summer  it  will  grow  three  or  four  feet ;  about  the  end  of 
September,  it  is  carefully  lifted  and  potted  into  a  large- 
sized  pot,  and  put  into  the  hot-house,  carefully  shading  it 
for  a  few  days — when  it  requires  no  more  attention  except 
a  regular  supply  of  water,  and  to  be  kept  in  a  temperature 
of  from  55°  to  75°.  There  is  also  a  pale  yellow  bracteced 
variety;  but  we  are  not  aware  of  its  being  for  sale  in  this 
country.  When  the  plant  is  grown  in  pots  during  sum- 
mer, it  must  be  repotted  every  month  to  encourage  its 
rapid  growth.  (Soil  No.  18.) 

Polyspbra  axilldris,  once  called  Camellia  axillaris, 
though  in  appearance  it  has  no  characteristic  of  a  Camellia, 
and  has  been  frequently  killed  in  the  green-house  by  being 
too  cold  for  its  nature ;  leaves  oblong,  obovate,  toward  the 
extremity  serrulate.  The  leaves  on  the  young  wood  are 
entire.  Flowers  white;  petals  a  little  notched.  It  is 
worthy  of  a  situation  in  every  collection.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Pterospermum,  five  species  of  plants  that  have  very 
curiously  constructed  flowers,  of  a  white  colour,  and  fra- 
grant; the  foliage  is  of  a  brown  rusty  nature,  and,  before 
expansion,  silvery-like.  P.  suberifolium  is  in  several  of 
our  collections,  and  esteemed.  P.  semisagittatum  has 
fringed  bractsea ;  leaves  oblong,  acuminate,  entire,  sagittate 
on  one  side.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Rhdpis,  a  genus  of  palms  that  will  grow  very  freely  with 
heat  and  room  at  the  roots.  R.flabelliformis  is  an  erect 
growing  palm,  with  a  spreading  head.  It  is  a  native  of 
China.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Rondeletia  speciosa  is  a  new  and  rare  plant,  in  every  re- 
spect equal,  if  not  superior,  to  Ixora  coccinea;  its  large 
corymbs  of  orange-red  flowers  have  a  very  striking  appear- 


May.']  *        HOT-HOUSE — OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  175 

ance,  and  it  is  easily  cultivated  in  soil  No.  1.  It  should 
have  frequent  repottings  when  growing. 

Ruellia.  There  are  a  few  species,  very  pretty  free-flow- 
ering plants,  of  easy  culture.  R.  formosa,  flowers  long, 
of  a  tine  scarlet  colour ;  plant  half  shrubby.  R.fulgida  has 
bright  scarlet  flowers  on  axillary  long  stalked  fascicles.  R. 
persicifolia,  with  unequal  leaves  and  light  blue  flowers,  is 
now  called  R.  anisophylla.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Russeliajuncea,  a  slender  plant  of  an  upright  habit,  pro- 
ducing, when  well-grown,  a  profusion  of  scarlet  tubular 
flowers,  about  one  inch  long  each:  it  is  of  the  easiest  cul- 
ture in  soil  No.  19. 

Sagus,  Sago-palm.  We  are  of  opinion  that  the  true 
palm  from  which  the  sago  of  the  shops  is  produced,  has 
not  been  introduced  into  our  collections.  It  is  very  rare 
in  the  most  extensive  collections  of  Europe,  but  it  is  not  so 
fine  a  plant  as  the  one  we  have  under  the  Sago,  which  is 
placed  in  the  natural  orcfer  of  Cycadese;  and  Sagus  is  in 
that  of  Palmse.  The  finest  of  this  genus  is  S.  vinifera 
and  S.  Rumphii.  They  grow  to  a  great  height ;  even  in 
artificial  cultivation  they  may  be  seen  from  ten  to  twenty- 
five  feet.  We  have  not  introduced  them  here  for  their 
beauty,  but  to  prevent  error.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Soldndra,  a  genus  of  four  species,  remarkable  for  the 
extraordinary  size  of  their  flowers,  and  are  considered 
beautiful.  S.  grandiflora  and  £  viridiflora  are  the  best 
two.  The  plants  will  bloom  well  if  they  are  restricted  in 
pot  room,  and  are  only  introduced  as  being  worthy  of  cul- 
tivation. If  they  are  repotted  once  in  two  or  three  years, 
it  is  sufficient,  except  where  the  plants  are  small  and  want 
encouragement.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Strelitzia,  a  splendid  genus  of  noble-looking  plants,  all 
of  which  do  perfectly  well  in  the  green-house,  except  S. 
augusta,  the  flowers  of  which  are  pure  white ;  the  leaves 
are  very  large,  being  nearly  six  feet  long  and  eighteen 
inches  wide,  and  assume  the  appearance  of  the  Banana 
tree:  it  requires  great  space  for  its  roots.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Stephanotus  florabimdus,  a  new  and  splendid  evergreen 
climber,  with  dark  green  thick  leaves  like  a  luxuriant  wax- 
plant,  producing  large  bunches  of  pure  white  fragrant 
flowers  ;  of  easy  culture  in  soil  No.  13. 

Swietenia,  (Mahogany  tree,)  the  wood  of  which  is  cel«- 


176  HOT-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  [May. 

brated  in  cabinet-work.  'S.  mahogoni,  common.  This  tree 
varies  much  in  general  appearance,  according  to  soil  and 
situation.  The  leaves  are  pinnated  in  four  pairs;  leaflets 
ovate,  lanceolate  ;  flowers  small,  white,  in  axillary  panicles. 
S.fubrifiiga,  leaves  pinnated,  in  four  pairs  ;  leaflets  ellip- 
tical; flowers  white,  in  terminal  panicles.  The  wood  of 
the  last  is  the  most  durable  of  any  in  the  East  Indies. 
They  are  fine  plants,  and  require  heat  and  pot  room  to  pro- 
duce flowers.  (Soil  No.  15.) 

Tabernzemontana,  a  genus  of  little  beauty,  except  for 
one  or  two  species.  A  plant  known  in  some  collections  as 
Nerium  coronarium,  is  now,  and  properly,  T.  coronaria. 
The  variety  flore  pleno  is  the  one  most  deserving  of  cul- 
ture, and  will  flower  profusely  from  May  to  August ;  the 
flowers  are  double  white,  fragrant  and  divaricating.  The 
plant  will  lose  its  foliage  if  not  kept  in  a  strong  heat ; 
therefore  place  it  in  the  warmest  part  of  the  hot-house.  T. 
densiftora  is  a  fine  species,  but  very  rare.  Drain  all  the 
plants  well,  and  keep  them  in  the  shade  during  summer. 

T'ecoma,  a  genus  of  plants  closely  allied  to  Bignonia,  and 
are  free-flowering;  several  of  them  much  esteemed.  T. 
mollis,  T.  digitdta,  and  T.  splendida,  are  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  those  that  belong  to  the  hot-house.  They  have 
large  orange-coloured,  tubular,  inflated,  ringent  flowers,  in 
loose  panicles.  There  is  a  plant  known  in  our  collections 
as  Bignonia  stdns,  which  is  now  T.  stdns;  has  pinnated 
leaves,  with  oblong,  lanceolate,  serrated  leaflets;  flowers  in 
simple  terminal,  raceme,  and  of  a  yellow  colour,  and  some- 
times known  by  Ash-leaved  Bignonia.  It  will  always 
have  a  sickly  aspect,  if  not  wrell  encouraged  in  light  rich 
soil.  Drain  the  pots  well,  as  much  moisture  disfigures  the 
foliage.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Thrinax  parviflora  is  a  fine  dwarf  palm  of  the  West 
Indies,  with  palmated  fronds,  plaited  with  stiff,  lanceolate 
segments.  The  plant  is  of  easy  cultivation,  and  will  grow 
in"any  soil.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Thunbergia,  a  genus  containing  six  climbing  plants  of 
a  half  shrubby  nature.  Some  of  them  have  a  fragrant 
odour.  T.  coccinea,  red;  T.  grandiftora,  blue;  T.  frd- 
grans,  white  sweet  scented ;  T.  aldta  has  pretty  buff  and 
purple  flowers,  which  are  in  great  profusion.  The  latter 
makes  a  very  pretty  annual  in  the  flower  garden,  with  its 


May.~}  HOT-HOUSE — or  REPOTTING,  &c.  177 

beautiful  white  variety,  forming  an  elegant  contrast.  If 
sown  in  May,  they  will  bloom  from  July  until  killed  by 
frost.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Tradescdntia  discolor.  Purple-leaved  spider  wort.  This 
is  an  herbaceous  plant,  and  is  only  cultivated  for  its  beau- 
tiful purple  foliage.  It  has  curious  small  white  flowers. 
(Soil  No.  10.) 

Urania  speciosa,  a  gigantic-looking  plant  closely  con- 
nected to  Musa,  from  which  it  differs  in  habit  by  the  large 
leaves  being  more  erect:  to  grow  it  luxuriantly,  give  it 
plenty  of  heat,  water,  and  pot  room.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Zdmia,  a  genus  of  plants  in  the  natural  order  of  Cyca- 
dese.  Several  species  of  them  are  admired.  Z.  media,  Z. 
furfuracea,  Z.  tennis,  Z.  integrifolia,  are  the  most  showy 
that  belong  to  the  hot-house.  The  whole  genus  is  fre- 
quently kept  in  this  department.  They  are  all  plants  of  a 
slow  growth,  and  the  beauty  is  entirely  in  the  pinnated 
fronds,  with  from  ten  to  forty  pairs  of  leaflets.  The  pots 
must  be  well  drained.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Those  genera  of  plants  which  we  have  enumerated  under 
the  head  of  repotting  in  this  or  next  month,  are  composed 
of  the  finest  hot-house  plants  that  have  come  under  our  ob- 
servation. There  are  perhaps  a  few  of  them  that  are  not 
to  be  found  in  the  United  States,  or  even  on  our  continent ; 
but  the  great  object,  in  a  choice  collection  of  plants,  is  to 
have  the  finest  from  all  parts  of  the  known  world.  There 
are  many  plants  whose  nature  does  not  require  much  sup- 
port from  soil,  which  is  frequently  observed  in  those  that 
are  mentioned.  And  there  are  many  hundreds  of  plants 
desirable  for  beauty,  ornament,  and  curiosity,  which  would 
take  volumes  to  specify  and  describe.  In  fact,  every  year 
brings  many  new  things,  and  frequently  both  new  and 
splendid,  either  in  flower,  fruit,  or  foliage. 

We  have  previously  observed,  that  plants  ought  not  to 
be  flooded  with  water  when  newly  potted,  as  it  saturates 
the  soil  before  the  roots  have  taken  hold  of  it ;  and  that  the 
best  draining  for  pots  is  small  gravel  or  pot-shreds  broken 
fine.  We  wish  it  to  be  understood  that,  when  plants  are 
repotted,  any  irregular  branch  or  shoot  should  be  lopped 
off  that  cannot  be  tied  to  advantage.  And  repotting  may 
take  place  either  before  or  after  the  plants  are  exposed  to 
the  open  air,  according  to  convenience. 


178  HOT-HOUSE OF  REPOTTING,  &C. 


OF  BRINGING  OUT  THE  HOT-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

Where  the  hot-house  is  very  crowded  with  plants,  the 
best  method  to  have  them  exposed  without  danger  is,  to 
take  out  those  of  the  hardiest  nature  first,  that  have  no 
tender  shoots  upon  them,  thereby  thinning  the  house  gra- 
dually. This  may  be  done  from  the  sixteenth  to  the  twen- 
tieth of  the  month,  which  will  admit  of  a  free  circulation  of 
air  among  those  that  remain.  All  may  be  exposed  from  the 
twenty-fourth  to  the  twenty-eighth  of  the  month.  This  is 
a  general  rule,  though  in  some  seasons  there  may  be  ex- 
ceptions. Having  previously  given  all  the  air  possible  to 
the  house,  that  no  sudden  transition  take  place,  which 
would  make  the. foliage  brown  and  otherwise  materially 
injure  the  plants,  choose  calm  days  for  the  removing  of 
them. 

There  are  few  plants  while  in  pots  that  agree  with  the 
full  sun  upon  them ;  or,  if  the  plants  receive  the  sun,  the 
pots  and  roots  ought  not.  The  best  situation  for  them  is  on 
the  north  side  of  a  fence,  wall,  house,  or  other  building, 
where  they  are  excluded  from  the  mid-day  sun,  and  they 
should  stand  on  boards  or  gravel,  with  the  tallest  at  the 
back,  firmly  tied  to  a  rail  or  some  other  security,  to  pre- 
vent them  from  being  overturned  by  high  winds.  Make  a 
fanciful  bed,  and  cover  it  with  sand  or  coal  ashes,  for  the 
reception  of  the  smaller  plants,  and  setting  them  thinly  and 
regularly  thereon,  is  preferable  to  crowding  them  with  the 
taller  sorts.  And  it  may  be  desired  to  have  some  of  the 
plants  plunged  in  the  garden  through  the  flower  borders. 
Of  those  that  are  so  treated,  the  pots  must  be  plunged  to 
the  brim,  and  regularly  turned  round  every  two  weeks,  to 
prevent  the  roots  from  running  into  the  earth.  If  the  roots 
were  allowed  to  do  so,  it  might  for  the  present  strengthen 
the  plant,  but  ultimately  would  prove  injurious. 

Where  a  sufficiency  of  shade  cannot  be  obtained,  it 
would  be  advisable  to  go  to  the  expense  of  a  very  thin 
awning,  that  would  not  exclude  the  light,  but  merely  the 
powerful  rays  of  the  sun,  attending  to  roll  it  up  every  even- 
ing. Plants  will  keep  in  beautiful  order  by  the  above 
method,  which  amply  repays  for  the  trouble  or  expense. 


May.~]  HOT-HOUSE—- OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  179 

Avoid  putting  plants  under  trees ;  comparatively  few  thrive 
in  such  situations. 

When  they  are  thus  exposed  to  the  open  air,  it  will  be 
very  little  trouble  to  give  them  a  gentle  syringing  every 
evening  when  there  is  no  rain,  and  continue  your  usual 
examinations  for  insects :  when  they  appear,  resort  to  the 
prescribed  remedies.  Green-fly  will  not  affect  them,  but 
the  thrips  may.  Give  regular  supplies  of  water  every 
evening,  and  again  in  the  morning  to  all  that  require  it, 
carefully  examining  those  that  are  in  small  pots. 


SUCCULENTS,  OR  THE  CACT^EA  TRIBE. 

The  Cereus  Mammallaria,  and  Opuntia.  Divisions  of 
this  family  are,  in  their  indigenous  state,  exposed  on  rocks, 
hilly  lands,  and  arid  situations,  being  at  all  times  fully  ex- 
posed to  the  sun :  still,  with  us,  we  find  that  they  thrive 
best  with  a  partial  shade,  though  we  have  frequently  seen 
them  doing  well  when  fully  exposed  to  the  influence  of  the 
sun ;  but  where  they  are  to  be  kept  out  of  doors  all  the 
season,  be  careful  in  choosing  for  them  an  airy  situation, 
and  never  allow  the  pots  to  become  saturated  with  moisture. 

The  habits  of  the  Epiphyllum  tribe  are  entirely  differ- 
ent ;  they  are  generally  parasites,  growing  on  the  branches 
and  about  the  roots  of  decayed  trees ;  consequently,  they 
are  often  much  shaded,  and  they  evidently  show  it,  for  they 
still  delight  to  be  shaded  from  the  direct  rays  of  a  noon-day 
sun.  If  they  are  kept  in  the  house  through  the  summer 
months,  take  some  whiting,  and  make  a  thin  white- wash, 
and  put  it  on  the  inside  of  the  glass,  which  will  be  found 
an  agreeable  and  effectual  shade ;  but  where  time  and 
means  are  at  hand,  a  thin  awning,  of  gauze  or  muslin,  is 
preferable,  provided  it  is  regularly  rolled  up  when  the  sun 
is  not  powerful. 


180         HOT-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING,  &c.  [June  and  July. 


JUNE  AND  JULY. 

As  the  plants  of  the  hot-house  are  all  exposed  to  the 
open  air,  the  directions  will  include  both  months.  If  the 
repotting  is  over,  as  recommended  last  month,  all  the 
attention  they  will  require  until  the  end  of  August  is,  the 
administering  of  water  at  the  roots,  and  by  the  syringe 
overhead.  It  will  be  impossible  to  say  how  great  are  their 
wants,  these  depending  entirely  upon  the  nature  of  the 
plant,  the  situation,  and  the  season ;  but  never  neglect  to 
look  over  them  every  evening,  and  after  dry  nights  they 
will  need  a  fresh  supply  in  the  morning,  observing  to  give 
to  none  except  they  are  becoming  a  little  dry.  Make 
weekly  examinations  for  insects  of  any  description,  and 
when  they  appear,  have  them  instantly  destroyed. 

Always  after  heavy  rains  look  over  the  pots,  in  case 
water  should  be  standing  in  them,  which  would  injure  the 
roots.  Where  any  is  found,  turn  the  pot  on  its  side,  and, 
in  a  few  hours,  examine  the  draining  which  is  defective ; 
small  pots  in  continued  rains  should  be  turned  likewise. 

Tie  up  all  plants  and  shoots  to  prevent  them  from  being 
destroyed  by  the  wind,  and  be  attentive  to  pick  all  weeds 
from  the  pots.  Turn  round  all  the  plants  occasionally,  to 
prevent  them  from  being  drawn  to  one  side  by  the  sun  or 
light. 


JlugU9t.~\          HOT-HOUSB— OF  REPOTTING,  &C.  181 


AUGUST. 

THE  plants  of  the  hot-house  that  were  repotted  in  May 
and  June,  according  to  the  directions  therein  given,  will,  at 
present,  be  in  an  excellent  state  of  health,  provided  they 
have  got,  at  all  times,  the  requisite  supplies  of  watering. 
And  as  we  already  have  heen  very  explicit  on  that  subject, 
more  remarks  now  would  be  merely  repetition. 


REPOTTING. 

If  any  of  the  repottings  were  neglected  during  May  or 
June,  let  it  be  done  about  the  first  of  this  month.  Let  young 
plants  that  are  growing  freely,  where  the  roots  have  filled 
the  pots,  and  the  plants  required  to  grow,  have  pots  one  size 
larger.  In  turning  out  the  ball  of  earth,  keep  it  entire,  not 
disturbing  any  of  the  roots. 


OF  PAINTING,  REPAIRING  AND  CLEANSING  THE 
HOUSE. 

The  necessary  repairs  of  the  hot-house  are  too  often  put 
off  to  the  last  day  or  week ;  and  then  with  hurry  are  super- 
ficially attended  to.  Previous  to  the  first  of  September, 
have  all  the  wood -work  painted,  (which  ought  to  have  one 
coat  every  two  years,)  and  the  glass  all  neatly  repaired. 
Have  the  flues  and  furnace  examined ;  plaster  over  all  rents 
and  make  good  every  deficiency.  Give  the  flue  a  thick  coat 
of  lime  white-wash.  Have  the  walls,  shelves  and  staging 
properly  painted.  If  there  is  a  tan-bed,  have  that  renewed ; 
take  out  what  is  most  decayed,  using  two-thirds  new  tan, 
which  must  be  dried  at  least  three  days  in  the  sun  before 
it  is  housed,  and  carefully  protect  it  from  rains. 

16 


182  HOT-HOUSE — OF  TAKING  IN  PLANTS.  [September. 


SEPTEMBER. 


DRESSING  THE  PLANTS. 

HAVING  last  month  put  the  house  in  complete  order,  all 
that  remains  necessary  to  be  attended  to,  is  the  state  of  the 
plants  and  pots,  which  should  be  regularly  examined,  and 
of  those  where  the  roots  fill  the  soil,  a  little  may  be  taken 
off  the  top,  supplying  its  place  with  fresh  earth,  thereby 
giving  what  is  called  a  top-di'essing.  Give  each  that  re- 
quires it  a  sufficient  rod,  tying  the  plant  neatly  thereto ; 
minutely  scrutinize  each  for  insects,  and  where  they  are 
detected,  have  them  eradicated. 

Finally,  wash  all  contracted  foulness  from  off'  the  pots,  at 
the  same  time  pick  off  any  decayed  leaves  ;  thus  all  will  be 
in  perfect  order  to  take  into  the  house.  If  any  plants  have 
been  kept  in  the  hot-house  during  summer,  they  must  like- 
wise go  through  the  same  operation. 


OF  TAKING  IN  THE  PLANTS. 

From  the  16th  to  the  24th,  according  to  the  season,  is 
the  proper  time  to  take  in  the  hot-house  plants.  It  is  pre- 
ferable to  have  them  what  might  be  deemed  a  few  days 
too  early,  than  have  them  in  the  slightest  degree  affected 
by  cold. 

Commence  by  housing  the  largest  first,  and  those  that 
stand  farthest  in  the  house,  observing  to  place  the  most  ten- 
der sorts  nearest  the  heat  or  warmest  part  of  the  house. 
For  observations  on  them,  see  May.  In  regard  to  arrange- 
ment, that  must  be  according  to  the  taste  of  the  operator. 
We  may  observe,  that  in  a  small  collection  it  is  better  to 
have  them  in  a  regular  than  in  a  picturesque  form.  A  dry 
shelf  is  indispensable  in  this  department  for  placing  on  it 
all  herbaceous  plants,  such  as  Cunna  Hedychium,  'Z-ingi- 
ber,  Ksempferia,  &c.,  the  watering  of  which  from  this  time 
should  be  gradually  suspended,  that  they  may  have  their 
required  cessation  to  make  them  flower  well.  This  shelf 


October.']  HOT-HOUSE.  183 

may  be  in  any  situation ;  one  in  darkness,  where  other 
plants  will  not  grow,  will  answer  perfectly  well.  If  there 
is  a  bark  bed,  do  not  until  the  end  of  December,  plunge 
any  of  the  pots  therein.  If  any  plants  of  the  Poinsettia 
are  in  the  ground,  have  them  carefully  lifted  and  shaded 
from  the  sun. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

The  plants  being  now  all  under  protection,  they  must 
have  as  much  air  as  possible  admitted  to  them  every  day, 
by  opening  the  doors,  front  and  top  sashes,  closing  only  at 
night.  The  syringings  must  be  continued,  and  care  taken 
that  plants  of  a  deciduous  or  herbaceous  nature  are  not 
over-watered.  The  tuberous  species  might  be  kept  almost 
dry.  Some  practical  men  of  sound  science  repot  these 
plants  in  this  month  into  fresh  soil,  and  allow  them  to  stand 
till  January  almost  without  water.  We  have  never  adopt- 
ed this  method  with  any  description  of  plants,  but  do  not 
doubt  of  its  success  with  that  genus. 

See  that  the  ropes  and  pulleys  of  the  sashes  are  in  good 
order,  and  fit  to  stand  all  winter. 


OCTOBER. 

VERY  few  directions  remain  to  be  given  to  the  department 
of  the  hot-house.  The  supplies  of  water  for  this  and  the 
two  succeeding  months  are,  according  to  the  state  and  na- 
ture of  tropical  plants,  more  limited  than  at  any  other  period 
of  the  year.  This  is  the  first  month  of  what  may  be  called 
their  dormant  state.  Observe  the  herbaceous  plants,  that 
they  are  set  aside  as  soon  as  their  foliage  decays,  in  case 
of  being  too  liberally  supplied  with  water.  Airing  is 
highly  essential  about  this  period,  that  the  plants  may  be 
gradually  hardened;  but  guard  against  injuring  them. 
The  temperature  should  never  be  under  fifty  degrees: 
when  the  days  are  cool  and  the  wind  chilling,  airing  is  not 


184  HOT-HOUSE.  [November. 

necessary  ;  and,  when  air  is  admitted,  always  close  up 
early  in  the  afternoon,  while  the  atmosphere  is  warm,  to 
supersede  the  necessity  of  fire  as  long  as  possible.  If,  at 
any  time,  you  have  recourse  to  it  in  this  month,  use  it  with 
great  caution. 

Examine  all  the  shutters  and  fastenings,  and  see  that  they 
are  in  good  substantial  order,  and,  where  deficient,  repair 
them  instantly,  that  they  may  be  in  readiness.  Remove 
all  leaves,  and  give  syringings  in  the  morning  of  sunshine 
days,  twice  a  week.  Clear  off,  sweep  out,  and  wash  clean, 
that  every  part  may  be  in  the  neatest  order. 

The  succulent  tribe  will  not  require  water  more  than 
once  a  week,  or  once  in  two  weeks.  If  any  of  them  have 
ripened  seeds  during  summer,  wash  such  carefully  from 
the  pulp,  and  lay  them  past  till  the  first  of  January,  when 
they  may  be  sown  on  the  surface  of  sandy  soil,  and  gently 
pressed  down.  Water  them  very  carefully  as  they  re- 
quire ;  cover  the  pot  with  a  piece  or  pane  of  glass,  which 
will  greatly  assist  their  vegetating.  In  a  few  weeks  they 
will  make  their  appearance ;  and,  when  they  are  one-quar- 
ter of  an  inch  high,  plant  them  out  into  other  pots  and 
fresh  soil.  In  a  few  months  they  will  make  wonderful 
progress  in  growth,  and,  in  the  following  year,  will  require 
to  be  potted  singly,  and  treated  as  recommended  for  esta- 
blished plants. 


NOVEMBER. 

THE  essential  points  to  be  attended  to  in  the  hot-house 
during  this  month  are,  fire,  air,  and  water.  The  former 
must  be  applied  according  to  the  weather,  observing  not  to 
allow  the  temperature  to  be  under  fifty  degrees,  and  it 
ought  not  to  continue  long  at  that  degree ;  fifty-two  degrees 
being  preferable.  The  shutters  should  be  on  every  night 
when  there  is  any  appearance  of  frost,  and  taken  off  early 
in  the  morning.  Admit  air  in  small  portions  every  day 
that  the  sun  has  any,  effect  and  the  atmosphere  mild,  ob- 
serving that  the  temperature  of  the  house  be  above  sixty 


December.']    HOT-HOUSE — OF  A  CISTERN,  &c.  185 

degrees  previous  to  admission.     Shut  all  close  early  in  the 
afternoon,  or  when  any  sudden  changes  occur. 


OF  A  CISTERN  AND  WATER. 

In  watering,  it  is  important  to  have  the  water  of  the 
same  temperature  in  this  department  as  the  roots  of  the 
plants.  To  have  this,  there  are  two  kinds  of  cisterns  or 
tanks  that  might  be  adopted ;  one  may  be  sunk  in  the  house 
under  ground,  either  closely  plastered,  or  lined  with  lead, 
and  neatly  covered  up,  having  a  small  perpendicular  pump 
therein,  or  placed  so  that  the  water  could  be  lifted  by  hand. 
The  other  might,  where  convenience  will  admit,  be  placed 
over  the  furnace,  either  in  the  back  shed,  or  inside  of  the 
house,  and  the  water  could  be  drawn  off  this  by  a  stop-cock. 
These  can  be  supplied,  in  part,  with  rain  water,  by  having 
spouts  round  the  house  to  lead  into  the  cisterns,  supplying 
any  deficiency  from  the  pump.  Thus  water  of  a  congenial 
temperature  may  be  always  at  hand,  which  is  of  great  im- 
portance to  the  healthful  constitution  of  the  plants.  The 
water  must  now  be  given  in  moderate  portions,  examining 
the  plants  every  day.  Be  careful  in  watering  bulbs,  as  the 
smallest  supply  is  sufficient  for  them  at  present.  Succu- 
lents will  require  a  little  every  two  weeks,  except  they-  are 
over  the  flues,  when  they  may  have  some  every  week. 

Constantly  clear  off  all  decayed  leaves,  and  carry  them 
out  of  the  house,  which  sweep  and  wash  clean,  and  keep 
all  in  the  neatest  order. 


DECEMBER. 

THE  uncertainty  of  the  weather  in  this  month  requires 
the  operator  to  be  constantly  on  guard,  to  ward  off  danger, 
either  from  frost,  snoAv,  or  cutting  winds.  The  tempe- 
rature observed  last  month  must  be  continued,  but  not  ex- 
ceeded, which  would  cause  premature  vegetation,  of  which 
the  result  and  effects  have  already  been  observed.  Always 
16* 


186  HOT-HOUSE— OF  SHUTTERS.         [December. 

kindle  the  fires  in  time,  to  prevent  the  heat  from  being 
lower  than  what  has  been  mentioned,  lest  a  severe  frost 
should  take  place,  as  then  a  considerable  lapse  ensues 
before  the  fire  has  any  effect;  and  if  the  wind  blows  high, 
the  result  might  be  injurious,  unless  the  house  be  very 
close. 


OF  SHUTTERS. 

The  benefit  of  these  in  severe  weather  is  of  material 
service,  for  the  preservation  of  an  even  temperature  in  the 
house  during  the  night,  when  changes  are  not  observed ; 
but  they  ought  never  to  remain  on  through  the  day,  when 
the  fire  can  be  properly  attended  to.  If  the  front  and  the 
lowest  sash  of  the  roof  are  covered  with  these,  it  is  gene- 
rally sufficient.  They  should  be  made  of  three-quarter 
inch  boards,  closely  grooved  together,  having  a  cross  bar  in 
the  centre,  and  one  at  each  end  and  each  side,  which  will 
make  them  substantial.  If  they  are  frequently  painted 
with  care,  they  will  last  many  years.  Snow  ought  not  to 
be  allowed  to  lay  on  these  while  they  are  on  the  glass,  for 
reasons  that  we  have  assigned.  See  January  and  Feb- 
ruary. 

Some  adopt  double  panes  of  glass  to  supersede  the  use 
of  shutters,  which  they  think  are  attended  with  considera- 
ble labour,  (at  the  most  only  fifteen  minutes  a  day,  while  in 
use.)  The  sash  frame  is  made  a  little  deeper,  so  as  to 
allow  half  an  inch  between  the  panes  of  glass.  The  one 
is  glazed  from  the  out  and  the  other  from  the  inside.  It 
appears  to  answer  the  purpose  tolerably  well,  but  the  glass 
must  be  both  fine  and  even  on  the  surface,  lest  a  lens  should 
be  produced,  which  would  scourge  the  plants.  We  are 
almost  confident  that  we  have  seen  this  effect  in  some  in- 
stances. There  must  be  a  small  hole  about  an  eighth  of 
an  inch  in  both  ends  of  each  row  of  glass,  to  allow  a  cur- 
rent to  dry  up  the  moisture  that  may  arise.  Double  sashes 
during  the  severe  months  are  frequently  used  ;  but  shutters 
are  preferable  to  either. 


December.']         HOT-HOUSE — AIR  PLANTS.  197 


OF  PLACING  BULBS,  &c.,  IN  THE  HOT-HOUSE. 

If  any  Hyacinths  or  other  Dutch  roots  are  wanted  to 
flower  early,  a  few  of  them  may  be  put  in  the  hot-house 
near  the  front  glass,  which  will  greatly  tend  to  forward 
their  time  of  flowering.  By  having  some  brought  in 
every  two  weeks,  a  continued  succession  of  bloom  will  be 
kept  up. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

If  there  is  a  tan-bed  in  the  house,  and  it  was  renewed  in 
September,  the  pots  should  now  be  half  plunged  therein. 
The  violent  heat  will  partly  be  over,  and  the  plants  are  not 
so  liable  to  suffer  at  root  in  this  as  last  month.  It  will 
in  part  prevent  the  plants  from  being  affected  by  sudden 
changes  of  temperature.  Be  attentive  in  keeping  all  in- 
sects completely  under.  This  is  the  period  that  these  are 
most  neglected,  but  by  attending  to  the  modes  of  their 
destruction,  as  already  given,  no  species  of  them  will  either 
be  hurtful  or  unsightly.  Syringe  the  plants  about  twice  a 
week,  and  always  remember  that  decayed  leaves  or  litter 
of  any  description,  do  not  beautify  healthy  plants,  neither 
do  they  form  a  part  of  a  well  kept  hot-house. 


ORCHIDEOUS  EPIPHYTES  OR  AIR  PLANTS. 

Before  we  close  the  hot-house  subject,  it  may  be  interest- 
ing to  some  of  our  readers  to  know  the  nature  and  cha- 
racter of  a  few  of  the  most  desirable  of  those  tropical  para- 
sites, that  have  within  these  few  years  caused  so  much 
excitement  in  Europe.  In  several  instances,  houses  up- 
ward of  two  hundred  feet  long  have  been  erected  for  their 
exclusive  culture,  and  unless  they  do  thus  have  an  apart- 
ment adapted  to  their  nature,  no  success  will  attend  their 
cultivation.  They  grow  only  in  a  very  humid  atmosphere, 
kept  at  a  temperature  of  from  70°  to  100°,  and  also  in  a 
partially  shaded  situation  :  it  is  only  under  such  treatment 
that  we  have  had  any  prosperity  in  blooming  these  pecu- 


188  HOT-HOUSE — AIR  PLANTS.         [December. 

liarly  beautiful  and  interesting  plants.  Annexed  are  the 
names  of  a  few  that  are  of  the  easiest  culture  and  most 
profuse  of  flower : 

Brassia  maculdta,  greenish  yellow,  spotted  with  purple. 

Catasetum  trifidum,  greenish  yellow,  spotted  with  dark 
brown. 

Cdttleya  crispa,  white  and  purple,  and  is  considered  a  su- 
perb plant. 

Cdttleya  labidta,  rose  and  rich  purple,  striped  and  spotted 
with  carmine. 

Cdttleya  Forbesii,  yellow,  white,  green  and  rose-coloured, 
fine. 

Dendrobium  cvculldtum,  rose  and  pale  yellow. 

Dendrobium  speciosum,  pale  yellow  flowers,  in  great  pro- 
fusion. 

Epide'ndrum  cuculldtum,  dark  brown,  with  yellow,  is  a 
very  constant  bloomer. 

Gongora  atropurpiirea,  dark  purple ;  the  plant  must  be 
suspended  in  a  pot  or  small  box. 

Gongora  speciosa,  yellow,  with  black  spots. 

Maxillaria  Loddgesii,  orange  flowers  in  long  racemes. 

Maxillaria  picta,  yellow,  beautifully  spotted  with  red  and 
crimson;  it  is  in  the  mornings  only  delightfully 
fragrant. 

Oncldiym  crispum,  brownish  copper  colour,  and  profuse 
flowering. 

Oncidiitm  papilio,  bright  yellow,  spotted  with  rich  brown. 

Oncldium  luridum,  flowers  of  a  brownish-green. 

Rendnthera  coccinea,  a  very  superb  scarlet  flowering  plant, 
but  does  not  bloom  very  freely ;  it  grows  in  moss, 
and  must  be  suspended  in  a  pot  or  tied  to  a  piece  of 
stick. 

Stanhbpia  grandiflora  has  delicate,  white,  sweet-scented 
flowers. 

Slankbpia  insignis,  yellow  and  white,  spotted  with  purple, 
and  delightfully  fragrant. 

Vdnda  Roxburghii,  flowers  pale  yellow. 

Zygopelalums,  all  very  beautiful  flowering,  generally  of  a 
yellowish  green  colour,  spotted  with  brown.  They 
require  to  be  kept  in  a  hot  dry  atmosphere. 


December.']         HOT-HOUSE — AIR  PLANTS.  189 

Orchideous  epiphytes  generally  grow  upon  trees,  in  the 
recesses  of  damp  tropical  forests,  establishing  themselves  in 
the  forks  of  the  branches,  and  even  upon  rocks,  stones,  or 
decayed  trees.  Shade,  therefore,  is  essential  to  their  wel- 
fare ;  consequently,  never  permit  them  to  be  exposed  to 
violent  sunshine.  They  require  but  little  water  at  the 
roots,  provided  the  atmosphere  they  grow  in  is  very  humid. 
The  best  soil  for  them  is  a  sandy,  turfy  peat,  containing  a 
large  portion  of  fibrous  matter ;  mix  with  this  pieces  of 
pot-shreds  or  cork,  and  be  careful  not  to  place  the  plant  deep 
in  the  pot ;  they  will  also  grow  on  blocks  or  sticks  of  wood. 
Although  we  use  and  prefer  small  boxes  (about  six  inches 
square)  made  of  cork,  in  which  they  grow  finely  and  bloom 
profusely.  With  some  of  the  strong-growing  kinds,  we 
use,  in  addition  to  the  above  soil,  a  little  leaf-mould,  using 
always  plenty  of  drainage.  The  house  we  cultivate  them 
in  has  an  eastern  aspect.  Shade  can  easily  be  given  to 
them  by  having  creepers  trained  up  the  rafters  of  the  house, 
or  an  occasional  large  plant,  placed  in  such  a  situation  as 
will  afford  most  shade  during  mid-day ;  and  it  must  be  ob- 
served, that,  although  the  plants  are  fond  of  moisture,  they 
never  thrive,  except  the  water  has  a  free  passage  from  their 
roots. 


THE 

AMERICAN  FLOWER  GARDEN 

DIRECTORY. 


GREEN-HOUSE. 


ON  THE  CONSTRUCTION  OF  A  GREEN-HOUSE. 

IN  many  respects,  the  construction  of  the  Green-house 
will  be  the  same  as  the  Hot-house,  but  might  be  made 
much  more  an  ornamental  object,  and  could  be  erected 
contiguous  to  the  mansion-house,  with  large  folding  doors 
to  open  at  pleasure,  and  be  connected  with  the  drawing- 
room  or  parlour.  The  extent  may  vary  according  to  the 
collection  to  be  cultivated. 

It  was  formerly  the  practice  to  build  these  houses  with 
glass  only  in  front,  and  even  to  introduce  between  the  win- 
dows strong  piers  of  brick  or  stone ;  but  this  is  now  abo- 
lished, and  has  given  way  to  a  more  light  and  ornamental 
style,  by  which  cheerfulness  and  the  desired  utility  are 
better  consulted.  There  should  be  conveniences  for  the 
admission  of  air  in  the  highest  part  of  the  house,  that  a  free 
current  may  be  obtained  whenever  desired,  which  is  an 
essential  point. 


192  GREEN-HOUSE. 


GREEN-HOUSE. 


JANUARY. 

THIS  compartment  requires  particular  attention,  in  order 
to  preserve  the  plants  in  good  health,  and  carry  them 
through  this  precarious  season  of  the  year.  A  little  air 
must  be  admitted  at  all  convenient  times.  An  hour  or  two 
at  mid-day  will  be  of  the  utmost  importance  in  drying  up 
damp  and  clearing  off  stagnated  air,  which  is  a  harbour  for 
every  corruption.  The  top  sashes  being  let  down  or  turned 
a  few  inches,  in  mild  days,  (that  is,  when  there  are  not 
high  and  cutting  winds),  from  ten  or  eleven  o'clock  to  two 
or  three,  according  to  the  intensity  of  the  frost,  will  re- 
novate the  interior  air  of  the  house  and  harden  the  plants. 
When  the  weather  will  permit,  let  the  front  sashes  be 
opened  about  one  inch  or  more.  An  assiduous,  expe- 
rienced hand  will  never  omit  an  opportunity. 

With  regard  to  fire  heat,  the  temperature  must  be  regu- 
lated to  suit  the  nature  of  the  plants  in  a  general  sense  ;  so 
let  the  mercury,  or  spirits  of  wine,  of  Fahrenheit's  thermo- 
meter, be  from  35°  to  50 ;  if  it  begins  to  fall,  give  a  little 
fire  heat.  No  doubt  we  have  seen  the  thermometer  much 
lower  in  the  green-house  than  the  above,  even  as  low  as 
24°,  without  any  immediate  injury;  but  it  was  in  an  exten- 
sive collection,  where  the  most  hardy  of  the  plants  were 
selected  into  one  house.  Many  boast  how  little  fire  they 
give  their  green-house,  and  how  cold  it  is  kept,  not  ob- 
serving the  miserable  state  of  their  plants — inexperience 
causing  them  to  think  that  the  least  fire  heat  will  make 
them  grow,  and  would  rather  look  on  naked  stems  than 
healthy  plants.  The  above  temperature  will  not,  in  exot- 
ics, cause  premature  vegetation,  but  will  cause  the  plants 
to  retain  the  foliage  requisite  to  vegetative  nature.  A  high 
temperature  is  not  necessary  for  the  generality  of  green- 
house plants ;  on  the  contrary,  it  might  very  much  injure 
them. 


Jan.~\  GREEN-HOUSE CAMELLIA  JAPONICA. 


OF  WATERING. 

In  this  month  very  little  is  requisite,  and  must  be  given 
with  great  caution.  Few  plants  will  require  much,  and 
some  hardly  any;  but  all  must  be  attended  to,  and  have 
their  wants  supplied.  Some  will  need  it  twice,  some  once 
a  week,  and  some  in  two  weeks,  according  to  their  shrubby 
and  woody  nature.  Herbaceous  and  deciduous  plants  will 
seldom  need  water.  Perhaps,  from  the  shedding  of  the 
foliage  to  the  commencement  of  vegetation,  three  or  four 
times  will  be  sufficient.  Particular  attention  should  be 
paid  to  the  state  of  health  and  of  growth,  in  which  the 
plants  respectively  are,  in  the  application  of  water;  other- 
wise much  mischief  may  be  done,  and  many  entirely 
ruined. 

Green-house  plants  being  now  in  an  absolutely  inactive 
state,  require  little  more  water  than  merely  to  keep  the 
earth  about  their  roots  from  becoming  perfectly  dry,  by 
occasionally  applying  a  very  small  quantity  at  the  root ; 
and,  if  done  with  a  watering-pot,  as  described  under  this 
head  in  the  hot-house  of  this  month,  very  little  will  be  spilt 
in  the  house  to  increase  dampness,  which,  if  it  does  appear, 
by  any  of  the  leaves  of  the  plants  becoming  musty,  they 
must  be  instantly  picked  off;  and,  if  it  increases,  give  a 
little  fire  and  air."  Succulent  plants  will  not  need  any  water 
during  this  month,  unless  omitted  in  December. 


CAMELLIA  JAPONICA. 

This  magnificent  and  attractive  flower,  with  all  its 
splendid  varieties,  will,  about  this  time,  begin  to  open  its 
beautiful  flowers.  But  for  this  admired  genus  of  plants, 
our  green-houses,  at  this  season,  would  be  void  of  allure- 
ment. It  is,  in  this  country,  subject  to  red  spider,  and 
more  especially  in  the  city,  which  appears  to  be  from  the 
nature  of  the  air.  The  effects  of  the  spider  on  these  plants, 
if  not  prevented,  would  prove  fatal ;  as,  from  appearance, 
many  have  died  by  it  in  several  collections.  If  it  has 
reached  a  great  extent,  the  leaves  are  brownish,  having  the 
appearance  of  being  decayed,  or  scorched  with  the  sun. 
17 


194  GREEN-HOUSE OF  ORANGES,  LEMONS,  &C.         [«/«>?. 

In  taking  hold  of  the  leaf,  it  feels  soft,  and  altogether  seems 
to  have  lost  its  nutritive  substance  ;  and,  when  the  young 
foliage  expands,  it  becomes  covered  with  dark  brown 
spots,  and  finally  very  much  disfigured;  and,  when  in  this 
state,  the  red  spider  is  severe,  and,  ultimately,  death  en- 
sues. 

If  any  of  the  plants  are  affected  as  above  described,  take 
a  sponge,  and  wash  every  leaf  minutely  with  soft  water, 
and  syringe  them  with  water  three  or  four  times  a  week, 
which  will  clean  them.  All  the  young  foliage  will  be 
healthy,  and  that  which  has  been  affected  will  fall  off. 
However,  prevention  is  better  than  cure ;  and  if  the  Came- 
lias  are  properly  syringed  every  evening  during  summer, 
and  once  or  twice  a  week  during  winter,  they  will  never 
be  subject  to  the  ravages  of  that  destructive  insect. 

Tie  up  any  of  the  flowers  that  are  expanded  to  stakes, 
in  case  of  accident;  and,  in  syringing,  observe  not  to  let 
any  water  fall  on  the  flowers,  as  it  causes  premature  decay 
and  change  of  colour. 


OF  ORANGES,  LEMONS,  &c. 

As  there  will  perhaps  be  more  leisure  in  the  green-house 
this  month  than  in  any  other  during  the  winter,  it  is  pre- 
sumed that  there  will  not  be  a  moment  lost.  If  any  of  the 
trees  are  infested  with  insects,  these,  being  now  in  their 
inactive  state,  may  be  more  easily  destroyed  than  at  any 
other  time.  It  is  the  brown  scaly  insect  that  generally 
infests  them.  For  treatment,  see  Hot-house,  January. 
The  plant  or  tree,  after  being  washed,  before  it  becomes 
dry,  will  require  to  be  syringed  with  water,  otherwise  the 
dust  will  adhere  to  the  glutinous  particles  of  the  soap.  Set 
the  plant  in  an  airy  situation  to  dry,  in  case  of  damp. 
There  are  several  others  subject  to  this  insect,  such  as 
Myrtles,  Oleas,  Oleanders,  &c.,  which  treat  in  the  same 
manner.  Be  careful  that  these  trees  are  not  over-watered ; 
if  the  soil  is  moist,  it  is  sufficient. 


Feb.~]  GREEN-HOUSE.  195 


OF  CAPE  BULBS,  &c. 

If  there  are  any  out  of  the  ground,  it  is  time  that  the 
whole  were  potted,  such  as  Lachenalia,  Wachendorfia, 
Eucomis,  Ixia,  Gladiolus,  with  several  others.  Keep 
them  in  the  shade  until  they  begin  to  grow ;  then  put  them 
on  shelves  near  the  light.  Those  that  are  growing  must 
be  kept  in  front  of  the  house,  to  prevent  them  being  weak. 
Wachendorfia  has  a  beautiful  large  red  tuberous  root,  and 
requires  a  pot  about  six  or  seven  inches  deep. 


OF  HYACINTHS  AND  OTHER  BULBOUS  ROOTS. 

All  these  roots  must  be  carefully  examined.  In  case 
slugs  or  nails  are  preying  upon  the  embryo  of  the  flower, 
some  of  those  that  are  farthest  advanced  may  be  put  for  a 
few  weeks  in  the  hot-house.  It  will  greatly  accelerate 
their  flowering^  but  they  must  be  brought  out  again  before 
the  florets  expand,  and  carefully  tied  up,  leaving  room  for 
the  increase  and  extension  of  the  flower  stem.  Give  them 
plenty  of  water,  and  if  saucers  can  be  placed  under  them 
to  retain  it,  it  will  be  of  advantage.  Change  the  water 
every  week  on  those  that  are  in  glasses,  and  keep  all  the 
growing  bulbs  near  the  light.  Narcissus,  Jonquils,  &c., 
may  be  similarly  treated. 


FEBRUARY. 

THE  directions  given  last  month  respecting  the  airing 
and  temperature  of  the  house  may  still  be  followed,  differ- 
ing only  in  admitting  air  more  freely  as  the  season  ad- 
vances, and  according  to  the  power  the  sun  has  on  the 
glass,  which  now  begins  to  be  considerable. 

If  the  weather  is  tolerably  mild,  air  may  be  admitted  in 
time  of  sunshine,  so  as  to  keep  the  mercury  as  low  as  50°, 
but  be  cautious  in  cold,  cloudy,  frosty  weather.  It  is  a 


196  GREEN-HOUSE—CAPE  BULBS,  &C.  \_Feb. 

practice  with  many  in  such  weather  to  keep  the  shutters 
on  the  house  night  and  day,  for  the  space  of  a  week,  and 
sometimes  more,  never  entering  it ;  and,  when  the  weather 
has  induced  them  to  look  in,  they  find  that  the  frost  and 
damp  have  made  many  lifeless  subjects ;  whereas,  had  the 
house  and  plants  been  attended  to,  in  taking  off'  the  shut- 
ters, and  giving  a  little  fire  when  requisite,  all  would  have 
been  in  safety,  and  many  plants  that  cannot  be  replaced 
still  in  the  collection. 

When  watering,  strictly  adhere  to  the  directions  of  last 
month,  except  with  Geraniums,  and  other  soft  wooded 
plants,  which  require  a  little  more  water  towards  the  end  of 
the  month.  If  the  days  are  mild  and  sunny  about  eight  or 
nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  all  the  plants  would  be  bene- 
fited by  a  gentle  syringing,  which  retards  the  progress  of 
insects,  and  accelerates  vegetation. 

.  Succulents,  such  as  Cactus,  Mesembrydnthemum,  Aloes, 
Furcrceas,  Crdssulas,  Cotyledons,  &c.,  will  very  seldom 
need  water,  at  the  same  time  keep  them  from  getting  as 
dry  as  powder. 


OF  ORANGES,  LEMONS,  &c. 

Similar  treatment  to  that  recommended  last  month  will 
do  for  this.  Where  the  soil  in  the  tubs  or  pots  requires 
to  be  enriched,  take  of  bone-dust  or  shavings,  and  fresh 
sheep  dung,  equal  quantities ;  put  the  mixture  into  a  large 
-tub  or  barrel,  until  one-third  full;  and  fill  it  up  with  water. 
Stir  it  well  two  or  three  times  every  day  till  it  ferments, 
then  give  each  tree  one  good  watering  with  the  compound. 
Continue  to  mix  up  afresh,  and  let  it  stand  another  week, 
and  so  on  until  all  the  trees  requiring  it  are  watered. 
This  watering  will  greatly  enrich  the  soil  and  invigorate 
the  roots. 


OF  CAPE  BULBS,  &c. 

The  bulbs  of  Ferraria  undulata,  and  F.  anfherosa,  that 
were  taken  out  of  the  pots  in  October,  will  now  require  to 
be  planted.  Five-inch  pots  will  be  large  enough  for  good 


Feb.']  GREEN-HOUSE.— CAMELLIA  JAPONICA.  197 

roots.  The  grand  criterion  for  planting  bulbs  is  when  there 
is  a  protuberant  appearance  about  the  bottom,  or  root  part 
of  the  bulb,  showing  by  a  principle  of  nature,  the  true 
time  for  transplanting.  When  bulbous  roots  of  any  de- 
scription appear  above  ground,  they  ought  to  be  placed  in 
an  airy  situation.  They  are  very  frequently  placed  under 
other  plants,  by  the  inexperienced,  until  they  show  their 
flowers,  and  then  brought  to  the  light,  having  weak  flow- 
ers, and  comparatively  of  momentary  existence. 

Hyacinths,  Narcissus,  Gladiolus,  Ixia,  &c.,  having 
flower  stems,  ought  to  have  support,  to  prevent  accident, 
especially  the  two  former ;  keep  them  nigh  the  glass,  and 
water  freely.  Change  the  water  regularly  once  or  twice 
a  week  in  the  bulb  glasses,  observing  that  "their  roots  are 
never  allowed  to  become  matted  with  fetid  water.  Any  of 
the  above  plants  that  are  in  flower  might,  if  desired,  be 
taken  into  the  drawing-room  or  parlour,  washing  the  pots 
clean,  and  putting  saucers  under  them,  keeping  therein  a 
little  water.  Twice  a  week  the  decayed  ones  can  be 
taken  out,  and  supplanted  with  those  that  are  coming  into 
bloom. 


CAMELLIA  JAPONICA 

Will,  in  this  month,  show  a  profusion  of  flowers;  and, 
where  there  is  a  variety,  they  have  truly  a  magnificent 
appearance.  From  a  good  selection,  endless  varieties,  by 
seed,  of  exquisite  beauty,  might  be  obtained  by  attention 
to  the  following  rule :  The  best  to  select  for  bearing  seed 
are  Single  white,  Jlntoniana,  Grandi/fora,  Waratah,  Car- 
nation Waratah,  Rubricaulis,  Donke/aari,  and,  in  many 
instances,  the  pistil,  or  pistillum  of  Fariegata,  Pompone, 
Pceoniflora,  Intermedia  and  Hosackia  are  perfect,  with 
several  others.  When  any  of  the  above  are  newly  ex- 
panded, (VVurutuh  is  most  perfect  about  one  day  before 
full  expansion,)  take  a  fine  camel-hair  pencil,  and  put  it 
gently  on  the  farina  or  pollen,  from  the  double  sorts,  which 
is  a  yellow  substance  on  the  anthers,  and,  when  ripe,  ap- 
pears in  thousands  of  small  particles.  Then,  with  this  on 
the  pencil,  dust  it  lightly  on  the  stile  of  those  intended  to 
carry  seed.  Between  the  hours  of  ten  and  twelve  in  the 
17* 


198  GREEN-HOUSE OF  SHIFTING,  &C.  [Feb. 

forenoon  is  the  most  proper  time  for  the  operation;  the 
seed  will  be  ripe  in  September  or  October,  which  will  be 
taken  notice  of,  and  directions  given.  For  other  particu- 
lars on  cleaning  and  syringing,  see  January  under  this 
head. 


OF  SHIFTING,  &c. 

The  best  time  to  repot  Camellias  is  in  October  or  No- 
vember, or  just  when  they  are  done  flowering,  which  will 
be  before  they  begin  to  grow.  There  are,  though  not  fre- 
quently, some  flowers  after  the  young  foliage  begins  to 
appear,  and  probably  it  would  be  better  to  discriminate  the 
time  by  the  buds  offering  to  push,  which  will  answer  to 
those  that  have  no  flowers  as  well  as  those  that  have. 
The  most  general  time  in  shifting  Camellias  is  in  August 
and  September,  indiscriminately  with  other  plants ;  and,  if 
then  not  very  gently  handled,  bad  roots  eventually  are 
produced.  Frequently  very  fine  plants  have  been  killed 
by  probing,  and  breaking  the  young  fibrous  roots,  thus 
causing  mortification. 

In  the  process  do  not,  by  any  means,  break  or  bruise  any 
of  the  roots ;  and  do  not  give  large  pots,  with  the  idea  of 
making  them  grow  fast:  it  acts  on  most  plants  diametrical- 
ly opposite  to  what  is  intended.  A  pot  one  or  two  inches 
wider  and  deeper  than  .the  one  they  have  been  in  previ- 
ously, is  sufficient.  Healthy  plants,  under  five  feet,  will 
not  require  shifting  oftener  than  once  in  two  years  ;  from 
five  feet.upward,  in  three  or  four  years,  according  to  the 
health  of  the  plants.  This  treatment,  in  the  opinion  of 
some,  will  appear  insufficient  for  their  support:  it  will  be 
found  enough  with  a  top-dressing  every  year  to  keep  them 
in  a  healthy  flowering  condition,  the  soil  being  according 
to  our  description. 

On  turning  the  plant  out  of  the  pot,  it  may  easily  be  ob- 
served if  the  soil  has,  in  any  degree,  been  congenial  to  it; 
for,  if  so,  the  roots  will  be  growing  all  round  the  ball ;  if 
otherwise,  no  roots  Avill  appear. 

Therefore,  with  a  blunt  pointed  stick,  probe  away  all  the 
bad  earth,  until  you  come  to  the  roots ;  then  put  the  plant 
in  a  pot  about  one  inch  in  diameter  larger  than  the  com- 


March."]  HOT-HOUSE— -OF  CLEANING,  &c.  199 

bined  roots,  previously  putting  a  few  small  pieces  of  broken 
pots,  or  clean  gravel,  to  drain  off  the  superabundant  mois- 
ture, and  give  light  waterings,  as  the  roots  in  this  case  will 
grow  but  slowly. 

Top-dress  all  that  require  shifting,  probe  out  the  soil 
down  to  the  roots,  and  by  the  side  of  the  pot,  taking  care  not 
to  break  the  fibres ;  then  fill  up  with  fresh  earth,  watering 
gently  with  a  rose  on  the  watering-pot  to  settle  it. 


OF  CLEANING,  &c. 

If  any  of  the  plants  require  cleaning,  either  by  fumigation 
or  otherwise,  let  it  be  done  before  the  young  foliage  ap- 
pears, according  to  the  directions  heretofore  given.  Like- 
wise tie  neatly  all  that  require  it,  clean  arid  top-dress  those 
that  will  not  be  shifted,  having  every  plant,  and  all  in  the 
green-house,  in  perfect  order  before  the  throng  of  spring 
commences.  The  weather  will  now  admit,  in  very  fine 
mornings,  of  the  plants  being  syringed,  which  may  be  done 
between  seven  and  eight  o'clock;  and  the  path  or  pave- 
ment should  be  washed  out  once  a  week,  which  is  a  great 
improvement  to  the  appearance  of  the  whole  interior. 

In  winter  when  any  glass  is  broken,  it  should  be  imme- 
diately mended.  Broken  glass  in  cold  nights  causes  a  very 
destructive  current  of  air.  It  should  always  be  made  water 
tight,  for  if  the  drops  fall  into  the  pots  upon  the  roots,  they 
will  frequently  prove  fatal  to  the  plants  ;  therefore  care  ought 
to  be  taken  during  rain  to  remove  those  that  stand  in  any 
manner  exposed. 


MARCH. 

THE  plants  in  this  compartment  will  begin  to  assume  a 
different  aspect,  and  air  must  be  admitted  every  day  if 
practicable,  giving  large  portions  in  sunshine  by  the  sashes 
regularly  over  all  the  house,  opening  those  of  the  front  a 
little,  and  likewise  the  doors  in  fine  mild  days.  To  per- 


200  GREEN-HOUSE OF  ORANGES,  LEMONS,  &C.    \_MttTcJl. 

form  this  judiciously,  give  a  little  about  eight  or  nine 
o'clock,  more  at  ten,  and  the  whole  from  eleven  till  twelve 
o'clock,  shutting  again  by  degrees. 

Fire  heat  will  now  be  dispensed  with,  but  in  frosty- 
nights  have  the  shutters  on  about  sundown.  The  sun  is 
now  powerful,  and  the  house  can  be  early  shut  up  in  the 
afternoon,  and  will  gain  as  much  natural  heat  as  will  keep 
up  the  required  temperature,  viz.,  36°  to  45°.  Perhaps 
there  may  be  uncommonly  cold  weather:  at  such  times  be 
attentive  to  ward  off  danger  by  applying  artificial  heat. 


OF  WATERING. 

Look  over  the  pots  and  tubs  at  least  every  alternate  day-, 
to  see  where  water  is  wanted.  In  watering,  too  much 
caution  cannot  be  used,  especially  during  winter  and  the 
commencement  of  spring.  It  was  observed  last  month 
what  would  be  the  effect  of  too  much  water.  It  may  be 
remarked,  that  if  the  exterior  of  the  pot  is  very  damp,  the 
soil  inside  is  too  wet,  and,  in  that  state,1  is  uncongenial  to 
vegetation,  which  now  begins  to  start,  and  ought,  by  all 
possible  means,  to  be  encouraged.  People  may  be  fre- 
quently observed  watering  all  plants  indiscriminately,  not 
taking  the  trouble  to  look  into  or  feel  the  state  of  the  soil 
in  the  pots  or  tubs,  and  thus,  by  going  over  them  three  or 
four  times  in  this  manner,  will  be  sufficient  to  put  the 
plants  in  such  a  state,  that  they  will  not  be  recruited  for 
some  months.  Hence  the  reason  of  so  many  sickly  plants. 

Camellias,  where  there  are  collections,  will  continue  to 
flower.  Treat  them  according  to  the  directions  given  last 
month. 


OF  ORANGES,  LEMONS,  &c. 

Be  sure  they  are  not  too  wet,  as  too  much  humidity  as 
well  as  aridity  causes  their  foliage  to  have  a  yellow  appear- 
ance, with  this  difference,  that  in  the  former  case  the  foliage 
is  the  same  to  the  touch  as  when  green  ;  but  in  the  latter, 
it  is  soft  and  dry.  We  have  observed  trees  in  tubs  and 
half  barrels,  with  holes  all  round  their  sides.  This  is  a 


March.~]  GREEN-HOUSE — GERANIUMS.  201 

ludicrous  idea,  having  the  appearance  of  keeping  the 
water  from  reaching  the  bottom  of  the  tub  or  barrel.  For 
the  best  kind  of  tub  for  large  trees,  see  August  under  this 
head.  If  any  of  the  trees  have  stunted,  straggling,  or 
irregular  heads  about  the  end  of  this  month  or  beginning 
of  next,  head  or  cut  them  down  to  the  shape  desired.  The 
old  wood  will  push  fresh  shoots.  You  may  cut  close,  or 
shorten  less  or  more,  according  as  you  desire  young  shoots 
to  arise ;  at  the  same  time  observe  that  you  do  not  cut  below 
the  graft  or  inoculation.  Trees  thus  headed  down  should 
be  kept  until  May,  and  then  planted  in  the  garden,  (see 
May,)  or,  if  that  cannot  be  done,  turn  it  out,  and  reduce 
the  ball  of  earth  by  probing  with  a  pointed  stick  all  round 
the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  ball,  cutting  off  any  very  matted 
roots.  If  any  of  the  roots  are  decayed,  cut  them  into  the 
sound  wood.  By  being  thus  reduced,  it  will  go  into  the 
same  pot  or  tub,  if  not  a  less  one.  Having  a  good  supply 
of  fresh  earth  ready,  put  a  few  inches  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pot  or  tub,  place  the  tree  therein,  and  fill  all  around,  at  the 
same  time  pressing  it  down  with  the  hand  or  a  stick.  Give 
very  little  water  until  there  are  signs  of  vegetation. 


MYRTLES,  OLEANDERS,  &c. 

These,  with  similar  exotics,  may  be  treated  as  above.  If 
any  of  them  have  been  infected  with  the  scaly  insect,  after 
heading  down,  &c.,  scrub  the  remaining  stems  with  a  strong 
decoction  of  tobacco,  heated  to  about  100°.  Afterward 
clean  with  soap  and  water. 


GERANIUMS. 

These  will  be  growing  freely.  Keep  them  in  airy 
situations,  so  that  they  may  not  grow  too  weak,  and  flower 
imperfectly.  To  flower  these  plants  strong  and  of  good 
colour,  they  must  not  be  crowded  together,  neither  far  from 
the  light,  and  have  plenty  of  air  admitted  to  them  when 
the  weather  is  favourable.  *  Keep  them  free  from  the  green- 
fly, by  fumigating  frequently. 


303  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. 


HERBACEOUS  PLANTS. 

Plants  of  this  character  will,  by  the  first  of  the  month, 
begin  to  grow.  The  best  time  to  divide  and  fresh-pot  them 
is  when  the  young  shoots  are  about  one  inch  above  ground. 
See  under  the  head  Shifting  in  this  month. 


OF  CAPE  BULBS,  &c. 

Cape  Bulbs,  such  as  Lachendlias,  Oxalis,  Ixias,  Gla- 
diolus, Watsbnias,  Babidnas,  &c.,  will,  in  many  of  the 
species,  be  showing  flower.  Keep  all  of  them  near  the 
glass,  to  prevent  them  from  being  weak  and  unsightly. 

Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Narcissus,  &c.  Those  that  have 
been  kept  in  the  green-house  during  winter  will  be  in 
great  perfection.  Have  all  the  flower  stems  tied  up  neatly 
to  small  stakes,  (which,  if  painted  green,  will  look  much 
better,)  and  keep  them  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun. 
The  front  of  the  house,  perhaps,  will  be  the  best  situation. 
They  must  be  freely  watered  while  in  flower.  Where 
there  is  convenience,  it  will  be  essential  to  keep  the  pots 
in  saucers  containing  water :  it  will  strengthen  both  stems 
and  flowers,  and  likewise  preserve  them  longer  in  perfec- 
tion. Those  that  are  blooming  should  be  put  aside,  and 
watered  sparingly,  until  the  foliage  begins  to  decay,  when 
the  pots  may  be  laid  on  their  sides  to  ripen  the  bulbs. 


REPOTTING. 

We  have  always  considered  that  this  month  is  the  best 
period  for  repotting  the  generality  of  Cape  and  New  Hol- 
land plants,  and  more  especially  those  that  you  are  desirous 
of  encouraging.  Large  plants  of  the  Citrus,  Myrtus,  and 
Oleander  tribes  may  be  deferred  till  August:  these  are  of 
a  strong,  robust  habit,  and  will  not  be  affected  at  that 
period;  and  they  will  then  be  out  of  doors,  and  more  room 
can  be  had  for  the  operation,  but  by  no  means  defer  repot- 
ting your  Jlcacias,  Erias,  Leptospermum,  Epdcris,  &c. ; 
and,  for  the  guidance  of  our  more  inexperienced  friends, 


March.~\  GREEN-HOUSE — KEPOTTING.  203 

we  give  a  descriptive  list  of  many  of  the  finest,  with  a  faint 
outline  of  their  characters  and  general  treatment,  which 
will  prove  a  desideratum  for  those  who  are  inexperienced, 
and  strangers  to  the  beauties,  pleasures,  and  arts  of  exotic 
flora  culture.  Therefore,  if  you  have  any  of  the  following 
plants  that  you  are  desirous  of  encouraging,  they  should 
be  repotted  this  or  next  month  at  the  latest.  Large  plants 
will  not  require  it,  if  they  were  done  in  August.  Pots  one 
size  larger  than  those  that  they  are  in,  are  sufficient. 

Acacias  and  Mimosas  being  now  united  into  one  genus, 
there  are  above  two  hundred  species.  About  one  hundred 
and  thirty  belong  to  the  green-house.  Among  such  a 
beautiful  family,  both  for  elegance  of  flower  and  beauty  of 
foliage,  it  will  be  difficult  to  specify  the  most  handsome 
and  desirable  for  this  department.  A.  dealbdta,  Jl.  glauce- 
scens,  Jl.  verticillata,  Jl.Jlorabunda,  Jl.  diffusa,  A.  armata, 
Jl.  decipiens,  Jl.  fragraiis,  A.  pulchella,  Jl.  lophdntha,  Jl. 
decurrens,  Jl.  pubescens,  Jl.  myrtifolia,  Jl.  conspiata,  Jl. 
limaris,  &c.  These  will  afford  a  great  variety  of  foliage, 
and  are  very  desirable,  flowering  principally  in  wrinter,  or 
early  in  spring.  The  flowers  of  those  belonging  to  the 
green-house  are  of  a  yellow  or  straw  colour ;  the  most  of 
those  that  are  red  or  purple,  with  the  celebrated  medicinal 
species,  belong  to  the  hot-house,  for  which  see  May. 
There  are  some  of  the  species  very  subject  to  the  white 
scaly  insect,  which  must  be  attended  to,  that  they  may  not 
get  to  any  extent.  (Soil  No.  1.) 

Jlgapdnthus,  three  species.  Jl.  umbellalus,  with  bright 
blue  flowers,  is  very  celebrated,  and  Avell  known  in  the 
collections  of  the  country.  There  is  a  variegated  variety 
of  it  highly  desirable,  the  foliage  being  white  striped,  and 
frequently  the  flower  stem  and  the  flower  Jl.  albidus  has 
pale  white  flowers,  and  as  yet  rather  scarce.  They  have 
very  strong  roots,  and  require  plenty  of  freedom.  Plants 
are  always  large  before  they  flower,  and  when  the  pots,  by 
frequent  shifting,  become  inconvenient,  the  plant  should  be 
divested  of  all  the  earth,  and,  if  too  large,  divide  it,  cutting 
off  the  strongest  of  the  fibres  ;  then  they  will  admit  of  being 
put  into  smaller  pots.  If  the  above  operation  is  performed 
in  August  or  September,  it  will  not  retard  their  flowering, 
which,  when  well  grown,  is  very  handsome,  the  flower 
stem  arising  about  three  feet,  and  crowned  with  twenty  or 


204  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  \_March. 

thirty  blossoms,  continuing  to  bloom  successively.  (Soil 
No.  12.) 

Achimenes.  About  eight  species,  the  type  of  this  new 
genus  has  been  long  known  in  our  collections,  under  the 
name  of  Trevirdnia  coccinea,  now  A,  coccinea,  flowers 
bright  scarlet;  A.  longiftora,  large  blue;  A.  grandiflora, 
fine  rose ;  A,  hirsuta,  bright  rosy  purple;  A.  rosea,  pro- 
fuse flowering,  and  A.  picta,  the  foliage  of  which  is  beau- 
tifully variegated  and  striped.  They  have  all  scaly  tuber- 
ous roots  requiring  the  pots  to  be  kept  entirely  dry  during 
winter ;  in  this  month  they  should  be  taken  from  the  old 
soil  and  planted  into  fresh,  giving  gentle  waterings  till  they 
begin  to  grow.  They  delight  in  a  warm  close  moist  atmo- 
sphere, and  will  bloom  freely  from  July  to  October.  (Soil 
No.  10.) 

Aloe.  Nearly  a  hundred  species  of  grotesque  looking 
succulent  plants,  and  are  principally  natives  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  and,  consequently,  will  do  well  in  the  warm- 
est part  of  the  green-house,  although,  when  convenient, 
they  frequently  get  a  situation  in  \he  hot-house.  A.  vul- 
gdris,  known  as  A.  barbadensis,  has  orange  yellow  flow- 
ers; A.  obliqua,  now  called  Gasleria  obhqiia;  A.  dicho* 
toma,  and  A.  variegula,  which  is  perhaps  the  finest  of  the 
genus:  the  leaves  are  beautifully  striped,  and  commonly 
known  as  the  partridge-breast  Aloe;  flowers  scarlet  and 
green.  They  ought  to  have  very  little  water;  once  a  month 
is  sufficient.  They  would  grow  without  it,  and  several  of 
them  would  also  grow  by  being  suspended  in  the  house, 
without  earth  or  any  substitute  about  their  roots,  by  being 
frequently  sprinkled  with  water.  Few  of  them  are  ad- 
mired for  the  beauty  of  their  flowers,  but  the  whole  are 
considered  curious.  They  flower  from  May  to  September. 
(Soil  No.  9.) 

Alonsoas,  five  species,  all  soft-wooded,  small,  shrubby 
plants,  with  scarlet  flowers.  A.  incisifolia  is  known  among 
us  under  the  name  of  Hemimeris  urticifolia,  and  A.linearis 
as  H.  linedris.  If  well  treated,  they  form  very  handsome 
plants,  and  flower  freely.  They  will  not  bear  strong  fumi- 
gation ;  and,  when  the  house  is  under  that  operation,  they 
must  be  put  on  the  floor  of  the  green-house,  where  they 
will  not  be  so  much  affected.  They  flower  from  April  to 
August.  (Soil  No.  9.) 


March.~\  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  205 

Aloysa  citriodora,  known  in  our  collections  as  verbena 
triphylla.  The  flowers  are  small,  in  long  spikes  of  a  pale 
lilac  colour:  the  celebrity  of  the  plant  is  in  the  delightful 
odour  of  its  foliage,  which  is  linear,  lanceolate,  and  ternate. 
It  is  of  very  easy  culture,  and  has  been  known  to  survive 
winter  in  the  open  air  in  Philadelphia.  Where  large 
plants  are  desired,  they  should  be  planted  in  the  ground 
during  summer,  and  lifted  in  November,  and  put  in  a  dry 
cellar  or  under  the  stage  in  the  green-house.  Before  they 
begin  to  grow  in  the  spring,  trim  the  plants  into  a  neat 
shape.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Alstrcemerias,  about  sixteen  species,  all  exceedingly  de- 
sirable, and  many  of  them  particularly  beautiful;  such  are 
— A.  durea,  golden  flowered ;  A.  acutifdlia,  scarlet ;  A. 
Hookerii,  rose-coloured ;  A.  pelegrina,  elegantly  spotted ; 
A.  pulchella,  red  flowered,  and  will  grow  six  feet  high, 
having  its  shoots  crowned  with  a  profusion  of  flowers ;  A. 
psittadna,  red,  yellow  and  green ;  A.  tricolor,  black, 
white  and  yellow  ;  very  beautiful.  They  have,  generally, 
tuberous  roots,  and  should  be  potted  into"  fresh  soil  as  soon 
as  they  show  symptoms  of  growth,  and  they  will  require 
repotting  about  every  rrtonth  previous  to  flowering,  taking 
care  never  to  break  the  ball  of  earth  while  they  are  in  a 
growing  state.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Amaryllis.  This  is  a  genus  of  splendid  flowering  bulbs, 
containing  about  eighty  species  and  one  hundred  and  forty 
varieties.  They  are  natives  of  South  America,  but  more 
than  one-half  of  them  are  hybrids  grown  from  seed  by  cul- 
tivators. They  are  generally  kept  in  the  hot-house,  but  in 
our  climate  will  do  perfectly  well  in  the  green-house ;  and 
we  have  no  doubt  that  in  a  few  years  many  of  them  will  be 
so  acclimated,  as  to  keep  as  garden  bulbs,  planting  about 
the  end  of  April,  and  lifting  them  in  October.  As  the 
beauty  of  these  plants  is  in  the  flowers,  it  will  be  proper 
to  give  a  small  description  of  a  few  of  them.  A.  Johnsoni, 
the  flowers  are  a  deep  scarlet,  with  a  white  streak  in  the 
centre  of  each  petal,  four  bloom  on  a  stem  of  about  two 
feet,  each  flower  about  six  inches  in  diameter :  a  bulb  well 
established  has  two  stems.  A.  regina,  Mexican  Lily,  has 
large  sparlet  pendent  flowers,  tube  of  the  flower  frmged- 
like,  with  three  or  four  on  the  stem.  A.  viftata  is  an 
admired  species  with  scarlet  flowers,  striped  with  pure 
18 


206  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [March. 

white :  there  are  two  or  three  varieties  of  it ;  corolla  cam- 
panulate,  three  or  four  on  the  stem,  about  three  inches  in 
diameter;  petals  a  little  undulate.  A.  fulgida,  flower 
scarlet,  large,  tube  striped,  petals  acute,  two  flowers  on  the 
stem.  A.  dulica  is  one  of  the  most  magnificent,  has  from 
two  to  four  flowers  about  seven  inches  in  diameter,  erect 
on  a  stem  about  two  and  a  half  feet  high;  six  petals, 
strongly  united  to  the  capsule,  bottom  of  the  petals  green, 
connected  with  spots  of  dark  crimson,  which  spread  into 
fine  transparent  red,  covered  with  rich  tints,  nerves  very 
perceptible,  anthers  bold;  it  is  called  Crowned  Amaryllis. 
A.  psittadna,  Parrot  Amaryllis,  is  scarlet  striped  with 
green,  two  or  more  flowers  on  the  stem,  each  about  five 
inches  in  diameter.  There  are  several  varieties  of  it ;  the 
best  that  we  have  seen  are  cowbergia  and  pulverulenta. 
A  bulb  known  in  our  collections  as  A.  purpurea  is  now 
Valletta  purpurea,  has  beautiful  erect  scarlet  flowers, 
three  or  four  on  the  stem,  each  about  four  inches  in  dia- 
meter. There  are  three  varieties  of  it,  differing  only  in 
habit.  Jl.  longifolia  is  now  Crinum  capense,  and  is  per- 
fectly hardy;  flowers  pink,  inclining  to  white,  in  large 
umbels,  leaves  long,  glaucous,  and  is  a  desirable  garden 
bulb.  A.  longiflora  striata  has  pure  white  flowers  with 
bright  pink  stripes,  and  each  flower  is  about  seven  inches 
long;  it  was  introduced  from  South  America  by  Mrs.  R. 
Alsop,  and  is  a  most  superb  flowering  bulb.  A.  solandri- 
flbra,  large  red ;  A.  Augusta,  buff  and  orange ;  A.  elegdns, 
red  and  green,  and  many  other  superb  kinds,  especially 
the  hybrid  sorts;  from  Johnsoni  there  are  above  twenty 
cultivated  varieties;  fromforniosa  about  twelve;  and  from 
Griffini  about  ten,  all  of  them  esteemed.  Where  they 
have  been  kept  in  the  earth  in  which  they  were  grown  last 
year,  the  ball  ought  at  this  repotting  to  be  reduced ;  when 
the  bulbs  are  in  a  growing  state,  they  ought  to  have  plenty 
of  water,  arid  be  fully  exposed  to  the  sun,  so  that  the  foliage 
may  have  its  full  influence,  and  as  the  roots  grow  lo  the 
outside  of  the  earth,  give  them  another  and  a  larger  pot. 
They  must  have  plenty  of  drainage,  and  be  kept  from 
heavy  rains.  We  prefer  growing  them  in  the  green-house 
all  summer,  or  into  frames  under  glass:  about  the  end  of 
October  the  watering  must  be  gradually  withheld,  and  by 
the  middle  of  November  put  the  bulbs  where  they  wjll  be 


March.~]  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  207 

kept  dry  till  February  or  March  next,  when  they  must  be 
again  potted  (in  soil  No.  12). 

Adtus,  two  species,  both  fine  leguminose  plants.  A. 
villosa  is  a  native  of  Van  Dieman's  Land,  and  A.  virgata 
is  from  New  Holland.  The  former  is  preferable.  Both 
have  yellow  flowers,  and  are  small  evergreen  shrubs.  (Soil 
No.  1.) 

Araucaria.  This  noble  genus  contains  four  species, 
which  are  without  exception  the  most  noble  plants  we  are 
acquainted  with,  for  the  beauty  of  their  foliage  and  sym- 
metry of  their  growth,  that  belong  to  the  green-house.  A, 
excelsa,  Norfolk  Island  Pine,  has  leaves  closely  imbricated 
as  if  with  a  coat  of  mail,  and  are  imperishable.  A.  imbri- 
cdta,  Chile  Pine,  is  one  of  the  grandest  of  trees,  and  is  the 
hardiest  of  the  genus  ;  grows  in  the  open  air  with  me ;  the 
leaves  are  also  closely  imbricated.  The  other  two  species 
are  rarely  seen  even  in  European  collections.  The  foliage 
of  either  of  the  species  will  adhere  to  the  wood  many  years 
after  the  plant  is  dead.  They  are  all  highly  valued :  the 
pots  must  be  well  drained ;  for  if  the  plants  get  much  water 
while  dormant,  the  foliage  becomes  yellow,  and  never  at- 
tains its  beautiful  green  colour  again;  otherwise  they  are 
easily  grown.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Arbutus,  ten  exotic  species  and  six  varieties.  They  are 
generally  hardy  in  England;  but  we  question  if  they  stand 
out  in  the  middle  states.  A.  unldo  ritbra  has  the  finest 
crimson  flowers  ;  A.  serratifolia,  the  largest  panicles ;  and 
A.  andrdchne,  the  finest  foliage;  and  very  profuse  of 
bloom.  They  flower  in  nodding  panicles ;  A.  canariensis 
has  very  neat  pink  flowers.  They  bear  a  pretty  fruit 
similar  to  a  strawberry ;  hence  it  is  called  strawberry  tree, 
and  the  fruit  will  remain  on  the  bush  a  long  time.  They 
are  very  fine  evergreens,  and  if  any  of  them  become  accli- 
mated, they  will  be  a  great  acquisition  to  our  gardens.  In 
the  southern  states  they  make  lovely  evergreen  shrubs. 
(Soil  No.  9.) 

Aster  argophyllus,  or  musk  plant,  has  no  beauty  in  its 
flowers,  but  is  esteemed  by  some  for  its  musky  flavour 
when  the  leaves  are  gently  rubbed.  Leaves  ovate,  lanceo- 
late, and  silky  beneath :  the  plant  is  of  strong  growth.  (Soil 
No.  9.) 

Aucuba  japonicci  is  the  only  species.     The  flowers  are 


208  GREEN-HOUSE—-  REPOTTING.  \_MaTCtl. 

small  and  almost  insignificant,  colour  purple;  but  the 
foliage  is  a  desirable  object,  being  yellow  spotted,  or 
blotched.  It  is  tolerably  hardy,  and  withstands  our  win- 
ters. It  prefers  shade,  and,  if  the  situation  were  such 
when  planted  out,  it  would  grow  more  freely.  The  hot 
rays  of  the  sun  are  very  prejudicial  to  its  growth.  It  is  an 
evergreen  shrub,  and  very  desirable.  (Soil  No.  2.) 

\ftzaleas.  The  Chinese  varieties  of  Azalea  indica  are 
almost  without  an  end  ;  we  might  properly  say  that  they 
are  without  end ;  but  the  finest  we  have  seen  are  those  we 
shall  enumerate.  The  one  that  has  been  longest  known 
in  the  collections  of  this  country  is  Jl.  indica,  a  most  splen- 
did shrub,  with  red  flowers  and  dark  spots.  Jl.  indica 
alba,  the  flowers  of  the  purest  white,  rather  larger  than  the 
former.  A.  indica  purpitrea  plena,  double  purple.  This 
variety  is  not  so  fine  as  many  of  the  others.  Properly  it 
is  not  purple,  or,  if  it  may  be  termed  so,  the  colour  is  very 
light,  and  the  flower  irregular.  A.  indica  phoenicea,  rich 
purple  and  a  free  grower.  Jl.  indica  smithii,  of  the 
French,  and  Jl.  indica  purpurea  of  the  English,  are  alike, 
pale  lilac  and  very  profuse  of  flower.  Jl.  indica  coccinea, 
bright  scarlet,  a  superb  variety,  and  extremely  abundant  of 
bloom.  Jl.  indica  flore,  variegdta  flowers  beautifully  varie- 
gated, pink  and  white.  Jl.  lateritia,  salmon  colour,  fine. 
Jl.  Williamsii,  bright,  rich  crimson.  Jl.  Powleii,  rosy 
purple.  Jl.  Copeii,  bright  rose.  Jl.  Danielsiana,  bright 
red.  Jl.  indica  cornea,  delicate  flesh  colour.  Jl.  indica 
nova  blanc,  white  with  a  greenish  yellow  spot  on  the  upper 
petals.  Jl.  indica,  elegans,  bright  rosy  purple,  a  very  pro- 
fuse flowerer  and  of  a  neat  habit.  Jl.  indica  Gillinghamia, 
very  large  lilac,  and  of  a  strong  habit.  Azalea  sinensis  does 
not  belong  to  the  indica  tribe ;  it  is  of  a  hard  woody  nature, 
flowers  of  a  golden  yellow,  in  large  clusters  ;  it  no  doubt  will 
prove  a  hardy  species.  The  varieties  and  sub-varieties  of 
indica  will,  in  a  few  years,  be  so  numerous,  that  the  greatest 
difficulty  will  be  to  keep  clear  of  those  that  are  not  decidedly 
distinct :  to  obtain  this  object  our  own  feeble  exertions  will 
be  industriously  applied.  We  might  have  named  a  few 
other  varieties,  but  they  so  nearly  approach  some  of  the 
above,  that  it  is  better  to  avoid  them.  A  choice  selection 
of  the  Chinese  Azalea  ought  to  be  in  every  green-house  ; 


March."]  GREEN-HOUSE— REPOTTING.  209 

they  are  all  easy  of  culture,  and  bloom  freely  from  Feb- 
ruary to  May.  The  pots  must  be  well  drained  and  shaded 
from  the  sun  during  summer,  though  the  tops  of  the  plants 
do  best  to  have  the  full  rays,  to  which  we  have  them  fully 
exposed,  and  find  that  by  such  treatment  they  are  every 
year  completely  covered  with  their  flowers,  and  grow  more 
stiff  in  habit  than  when  the  whole  plant  is  shaded.  They 
should  be  repotted  as  soon  as  done  flowering  in  soil  No.  6, 
when  they  are  flowering  plants,  and  in  soil  No.  5,  when 
young  plants. 

Bdnksias.  There  are  about  thirty-two  species,  all  curi- 
ous in  flower,  and  handsome  and  various  in  foliage  ;  flowers 
in  large  heads  of  cone  shape,  anthers  mostly  green,  and 
continue  a  considerable  time  in  flower ;  produces  a  cone  in 
shape  of  a  pine,  but  not  imbricate.  The  substance  is  as 
hard  as  bone,  and  contains  many  seeds.  A  cone  of  B. 
grdndis  in  our  possession  weighs  one  pound  and  twelve 
ounces,  and  contains  about  one  hundred  and  seven  seeds. 
Those  most  admired  for  the  foliage  are,  B.  dentdta,  B. 
xmula,  B.  serrala,  B.  latifdlia,  B.  grdndis,  which  is 
the  largest.  B.  spedosa  has  the  longest  foliage.  B. 
Cunninghdmii,  B.  spinulose,  B.  palluddsa,  and  B.  repens, 
these  will  afford  a  good  variety.  B.  verticilldta  is  entirely 
different  in  appearance  from  the  others. 

They  must  be  well  drained,  and  placed  in  an  airy  part 
of  the  green-house.  Great  care  should  be  taken  that  thev 
do  not  get  too  dry,  for  they  seldom  recover  if  allowed  to 
flag  for  want  of  water.  This  genus  is  named  in  honour  of 
Sir  Joseph  Banks,  a  distinguished  promoter  of  the  study  of 
natural  history.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Barosmas,  above  ten  species  of  pretty  plants,  separated 
from  Diosma.  B.  serratifolia,  white ;  B.  pulchella,  pur- 
ple ;  B.  fcetidlssima,  blush ;  B.  odordta,  white ;  and  B. 
dioica,  pink,  are  the  finest.  (Soil  No.  8.) 

Beaufortias,  only  two  species.  B.  decussata  is  splen- 
did ;  the  flowers  come  out  of  the  wood  with  stamens  in  fine 
parcels,  colour  bright  scarlet,  foliage  decussate,  oval,  and 
many-nerved,  bloom  persistent,  and  much  esteemed.  B. 
spdrsa,  in  flower  similar  to  the  other ;  colour  light  pink, 
foliage  scattered,  both  of  easy  culture,  and  flower  abun- 
dantly. (Soil  No.  8.) 

Begonias,  a  few  species,  are  desirable  for  the  green- 


210  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  \_March. 

house  especially.  B.  incarnata,  flesh  colour,  and  blooms 
during  winter ;  B.  zebrina,  zebra-like,  very  pretty ;  they 
are  of  a  soft  woody  nature,  and  should  be  kept  in  the  warm- 
est part  of  the  green-house.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Benthamia  fragifera.  This  beautiful  new  plant  will 
make  a  splendid  hardy  evergreen  for  the  southern  states, 
where  it  will  produce  its  pale  white  flowers  in  July,  and 
an  abundance  of  fruit  very  much  like  strawberries,  of  a 
slight  acid  taste :  but  we  are  doubtful  if  it  Avill  fruit  in  our 
green-houses,  unless  greatly  encouraged.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Bletia  hyacinthina  is  the  only  species  belonging  to  the 
green-house,  once  known  as  Cymbidium  hy acini hinum. 
It  is  herbaceous,  and  before  it  begins  to  grow,  divide  the 
root,  putting  the  best  into  six-inch  pots.  The  spike  of 
flowers  are  hyacinth -like,  and  of  a  beautiful  purple,  flower- 
ing from  April  to  July.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Bouvdrdias,  two  species.  B.  triphylla  is  well  known 
among  us,  has  brilliant  scarlet  flowers,  and,  when  well 
grown,  will  flower  beautifully  from  May  till  September. 
To  keep  the  plants,  they  should  be  frequently  renewed ; 
otherwise  they  are  liable  to  grow  straggling,  and  become 
subject  to  the  small  white  scaly  insect.  B.  jacquinae  we 
suspect  has  got  confounded  with  the  former,  being  very 
little  different,  except  the  foliage,  which  is  more  pointed. 
They  flower  from  the  young  wood,  and  throw  their  foliage 
in  winter.  (Soil  No.  3.) 

Borbnia  is  a  beautiful  genus  of  New  Holland  plants, 
contains  about  nine  species ;  most  of  them  have  been  uni- 
versally admired ;  the  flowers  are  star-like,  rose-coloured, 
and  some  of  them  sweet-scented.  B.  pinndta  grows  and 
flowers  freely.  B.  serruldta,  foliage  serrated  and  very 
crowded,  bearing  the  flowers  on  the  extremity  of  the  shoot, 
and  does  extremely  well  in  this  country ;  the  flowers  are 
bright  rose,  and  sweet-scented.  B.  aldta  has  a  fine  appear- 
ance, and  grows  handsomely.  The  foliage  is  winged  and 
pinnate,  strong-scented;  of  a  hardy  nature,  and  easy  cul- 
ture. They  are  in  flower  about  April  and  May,  and  con- 
tinue a  considerable  time ;  are  subject  to  mildew  if  not  fre- 
quently syringed :  drain  the  pots  well.  (Soil  No.  8.) 

Brachysemas,  two  species,  both  evergreen  climbers.  B. 
lalifolium  has  the  best  foliage,  and  large  purple  legumi- 
nose  flowers.  B.  unduldtum,  flowers  yellow,  and  more 


March.~]  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  211 

plentiful  than  the  former,  continuing  in  long  successions. 
The  pots  require  to  be  well  drained ;  very  few  plants  of 
either  in  the  country.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Brugmdnsias,  two  species  of  strong,  coarse-growing 
plants,  requiring  great  nourishment  to  flower  them  well. 
B.  suaveolens  has  very  large  white  flowers,  about  five 
inches  in  diameter,  and  sweet-scented.  B.  sanguinca  has 
flowers  with  a  green  thorax;  the  brim  of  the  corolla  is  of 
a  dark  orange  colour.  If  this  plant  is  kept  in  the  hot- 
house, it  will  drop  its  flower  buds.  They  must  have  very 
frequent  repottings,  and  be  liberally  supplied  with  water 
while  growing.  (Soil  No.  18.) 

Brunias,  about  ten  species,  have  heath-like  foliage, 
very  fine,  generally,  on  close  observation,  found  to  be  three 
cornered.  The  flowers  are  white  and  globular,  the  plants, 
when  young,  are  very  handsome ;  the  finest  are,  B.  nodi- 
Jlora,  B.  lanuginosa,  B.  comosa,  B.  abrotanoldes,  and  B. 
formosa.  They  require  an  airy  situation,  and,  in  summer, 
to  be  protected  from  the  powerful  rays  of  the  sun.  Drain 
the  pots  well.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Brunsvigias  are  all  large  bulbs  from  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  and  will  keep  in  the  green-house  during  winter,  but 
are  better  where  they  can  obtain  a  situation  in  the  hot- 
house. It  is  a  splendid  genus,  containing  about  ten  spe- 
cies. Some  of  the  bulbs  grow  to  an  enormous  size,  and  all 
of  them,  while  growing,  require  a  liberal  supply  of  water; 
but  when  dormant,  it  must  be  wholly  withheld,  and  they 
should  have  large  pots,  to  make  them  grow  and  flower  in 
perfection.  B.  multiflora,  flowers  scarlet  and  green ;  the 
leaves  lay  on  the  surface  of  the  pot.  B.  laticbma,  flowers 
pale  purple.  B.  Josephinx  has  splendid  rose-coloured 
flowers,  and  the  most  admired  species  of  the  genus ;  the 
foliage  spreading,  half  erect,  and  glaucous  ;  flowers  nume- 
rous, and  in  large  umbels,  on  a  stem  two  feet  high,  bloom- 
ing successively  :  there  is  a  variety  that  has  striped  flow- 
ers. 

Several  other  species  have  been  given  to  different 
genera.  B.falcala  is  now  Jlmmocharisfalcata;  B.  mar- 
gindta,  now  Imhofia;  and  B.  cillidris  is  now  Buphone 
cilliaris.  They  all  flower  in  umbels,  on  stems  from  six 
inches  to  two  feet ;  flowers  lily-like,  with  six  petals.  (Soil 
No.  12.) 


212  GREEN-HOUSE— REPOTTING.  [March. 

Burchellias,  two  species.  B.  capensis  is  a  beautiful 
dwarf  evergreen  shrub,  with  tubular  orange-coloured  flow- 
ers, in  large  terminal  clusters ;  when  well  treated,  grows 
and  flowers  freely,  and  highly  deserving  of  attention.  B. 
parviftora  differs  from  the  above  in  the  flowers  being 
smaller  and  paler,  and  the  foliage  more  pointed.  (Soil 
No.  10.) 

Cactus :  for  descriptions  of,  see  hot-house  in  May. 

Calceolaria.  This  genus  of  giants  has  undergone  a 
complete  revolution.  Within  these  few  years  hundreds  of 
superb  hybrid  varieties  have  been  brought  to  notice,  many 
of  them  truly  splendid.  With  us  the  herbaceous  kinds  are 
very  delicate  during  summer;  they  are  generally  all  cut  off 
by  our  intense  heat,  or  severe  droughts.  The  shrubby 
varieties  appear  to  withstand  the  vicissitudes  of  our  climate 
better,  though,  as  yet,  we  confess  we  are  not  even  alto- 
gether successful  in  their  summer  culture.  However,  a 
few  of  them  have  done  well,  and  are  C.  angustifolia,  bright 
yellow,  and  in  great  profusion ;  C.  jupiter,  brown  and  yel- 
low; C.  marjoridna  superba,  nearly  scarlet;  C.  smithii, 
red  and  yellow ;  C.  ignea,  bright  crimson  ;  C.  meteor,  dark 
crimson;  C.  Vulcan,  dark  red;  C.  maculata,  superbly 
marked  with  red  or  crimson.  There  are  many  others  of 
very  great  merit  of  the  shrubby  kinds  cultivated  in  Europe, 
such  as  whites  of  different  shades,  dark  crimsons,  with 
white  capes,  and  others  blending  into  almost  every  descrip- 
tion of  colour  and  character.  Any  quantity  of  new  sorts 
may  be  obtained  by  cross  impregnation  between  any  two 
of  very  different  colours :  the  seeds  will  ripen  in  July,  when 
they  may  be  sown  on  light  soil,  and  they  will  flower  the 
following  season.  Flowering  plants  require  to  be  greatly 
encouraged,  and  must  be  shaded  during  summer  from  the 
violent  noon-day  sun.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Calolhdmnus,  four  species.  This  genus  is  named  in 
allusion  to  the  splendid  appearance  of  the  branches,  cov- 
ered with  scarlet  flowers  of  curious  construction,  which 
come  out  of  the  old  wood.  All  the  species  are  of  easy  cul- 
ture, and  very  like  dwarf  pines.  C.  quadriffida  has  the 
largest  flowers ;  C.  clavdta  the  most  abundant.  They  are 
all  evergreens,  and  flower  from  April  to  November,  and 
are  very  desirable  in  a  collection.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Callicoma  serratifolia,  the  only  species,  and  remarkable 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  213 

for  tufted  yellow  heads  of  flowers,  which  come  out  at  the 
axils,  and  continue  from  May  to  July.  The  foliage  is 
ovate,  lanceolate,  deeply  serrated  and  opposite.  (Soil  No. 
6.) 

Camellias.  There  are  about  eight  distinct  species  of 
this  plant,  known  in  our  collections ;  and  the  varieties  of 
japonica  approach  to  one  thousand,  to  which  many  are 
yearly  added;  but,  unfortunately,  their  merits  are  not  fully 
scrutinized  before  they  are  sent  forth  to  the  floral  world, 
under  names  representing  and  expressing  every  quality 
that  is  grand  or  beautiful  in  floral  imagination.  Such  has 
been  the  rapid  increase  of  varieties  in  Europe,  and  even  in 
this  country,  that,  in  many  instances,  three  or  four  distinct 
plants  have  come  out  under  the  same  name;  consequently, 
a  great  confusion  of  names  has  been  the  result,  which  has 
caused  much  difficulty  in  attaining  the  best  of  the  names. 
The  collections  of  this  country  were  kept  comparatively 
pure  till  within  the  last  few  years,  when  the  anxiety  of  our 
cultivators  to  obtain  variety  caused  them  to  import  from  the 
French  and  German  markets,  which  has  thrown  the  no- 
menclature into  an  almost  impenetrable  chaos.  But  still 
we  can  unite  in  saying,  "What  species  of  plant  is  there 
which  better  merits  the  intelligent  and  vigilant  care  of  the 
amateur  and  horticulturist  ?"  The  elegance  of  its  form, 
the  beautiful  verdure  of  its  foliage,  and  the  pure  and  bril- 
liant colours  of  the  large  and  elegant  flowers,  sufficiently 
justify  the  admiration  of  all.  In  fact,  we  may  say,  there  is 
not  a  green-house  in  which  this  lovely  plant  has  not  found 
a  place,  where  it  stands  in  the  first  rank  of  floral  popula- 
tion. To  give  a  full  description  of  all  the  varieties  we 
know  would  occupy  this  volume.  However,  we  will  give 
lucid  details  of  nearly  one  hundred  of  the  finest  we  have 
seen  in  cultivation.  But,  in  regard  to  the  shades  and  spots 
of  colour,  we  must  throw  ourselves  on  the  charity  of  our 
readers  ;  for  many  sorts  are  very  capricious  in  that  particu- 
lar, though  styled  self-coloured,  may  come  spotted,  and 
even  those  that  are  generally  spotted  sometimes  show  them- 
selves of  one  colour. 

Camellia  euryoides,  flowers  small,  single  white,  and  a 
little  fragrant ;  plant  of  a  slender  growth. 

C.  olciferia  is  cultivated  principally  in  China  for  the  oil 


214  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. 

which  is  expressed  from  its  seeds,  which  is  much  used  in 
the  domestic  cookery  of  the  country;  flower  single  white. 

C.  Sesdngua,  Lady  Banks's.  The  foliage  of  this  species 
is  very  small,  and  paler,  and  the  green  not  so  fine  as  any 
of  the  others.  It  seeds  freely,  and  is  often  used  as  the 
female  parent  in  producing  new  varieties ;  flowers  small, 
white,  and  single,  with  many  anthers.  There  are  a  semi- 
double  and  double  variety  of  it  of  the  same  colour. 

C.  sesdnqua  rosea,  or  malliflora  of  some,  double  pink, 
small  flowers,  but  in  very  great  profusion ;  the  plant  is  of  a 
free,  upright  growth.  The  flowers  are  of  about  four  weeks' 
duration :  it  is  very  much  esteemed. 

C.  kissii.  Small  single  white :  the  only  species  that  is 
a  native  of  Nepaul. 

C,  reticuldta  was  brought  from  China  by  Capt.  Rawes 
in  1823.  The  foliage  is  very  characteristic,  being  stiff' and 
flat,  distinctly  serrated,  nerves  deeply  sunken ;  flowers 
bright  rose,  of  a  loose  form,  and  above  six  inches  in  diame- 
ter, semi-double.  From  present  appearance,  it  will  never 
be  so  plenty  as  many  of  the  others,  being  tardy  of  propa- 
gation ;  only  a  few  eyes  on  the  extremity  of  each  shoot 
make  young  wood,  and,  if  these  are  cut  off,  the  plant  does 
not  seem  to  push  afresh.  Magnificent. 

C.  japonica,  small,  single,  red.  It  is  supposed  that  this 
is  the  type  of  all  the  garden  cultivated  varieties  of  the 
Camellia,  though  some  are  inclined  to  think  that  it  is  a 
variegated  or  striped  species,  not  yet  introduced,  that  has 
been  the  origin  of  so  many  beautiful  Chinese  sorts. 

The  following  are  supposed  to  be  its  varieties : 

C.  aitonia.  This  variety  is  a  beautiful  specimen  of  a. 
single  flower,  affording  a  development  of  the  organ  of  fruc- 
tification ;  the  petals  are  delicately  penciled,  and  the 
anthers  very  bold,  colour  pink,  and  the  flower  very  large; 
grows  freely,  and,  in  our  opinion,  is  surpassed  by  none  of 
the  single  sorts  for  raising  fine  new  varieties,  if  impreg- 
nated with  the  pollen  from  double  flowers.  Good. 

C.  alba-plena,  common  double  white,  is  admired  by  the 
most  casual  observer,  and  is  generally  considered  a  very 
superior  flower,  from  the  purity  of  its  whiteness  and  the 
abundance  of  its  large  flowers,  which  are  closely  and  regu- 
larly set  with  round  petals.  The  foliage  is  large,  and  the 
plant  grows  freely ;  we  have  seen  one  shoot  grow  two  feet 


March.}  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  215 

in  one  summer.  It  was  imported  into  Europe  from  China, 
among  the  first  of  the  varieties,  about  eighty  years  ago. 
Magnificent. 

C.  semplex*  alba,  single  white.  It  is  mentioned  some- 
where as  being  very  sweet-scented,  though  not  very  per- 
ceptible to  us.  The  foliage  and  wood  are  very  strong,  the 
fine-striped  sorts  have  been  raised  from  it ;  consequently, 
it  is  particularly  desirable  as  a  stock  to  grow  new  varieties 
from.  Its  flowers  are  large  and  abundant.  Good. 

C.  althseflora,  hollyhock  flowered,  is  a  great  beauty,  with 
large  double  dark  red  flowers ;  the  veins  are  very  promi- 
nent, petals  frequently  irregular ;  foliage  large,  smooth,  and 
very  dark  green,  and  is  much  esteemed.  Fine. 

C.  anemoneflora,  or  Waratah  (from  the  centre  petals, 
having  the  appearance  of  the  Waratah  plant,  Telopla  spe- 
ciosissimd).  This  variety  is  very  characteristic,  both  in 
flower  and  foliage.  The  flower  is  dark  crimson,  with  five 
regular  large  outside  petals ;  those  of  the  centre  are  very 
small  and  neatly  plaited,  with  the  stile  (female  organ)  pro- 
minent ;  the  foliage  is  large  and  oblong,  nerves  very  smooth, 
and  the  wood  strong,  bark  light.  Had  this  kind  not  been 
found,  we  would  have  been  deprived  of  many  most  splendid 
varieties  which  have  originated  from  it,  and  we  have  no 
doubt  they  may  become  as  diversified  as  the  roses  of  the 
garden  :  this  variety,  in  a  collection,  for  that  alone  is  in- 
valuable. It  seeds  freely,  and  the  pollen  of  any  of  the 
others  applied  to  the  style  of  this,  will  produce  a  new 
variety,  which  seldom  fails  of  being  double,  provided  the 
pollen  is  from  a  double  variety.  It  must  be  applied  the 
first  day  that  the  flower  is  expanded,  for  the  bloom  is  only 
of  a  few  days'  duration.  Those  that  are  not  acquainted 
with  the  buds  of  this  Camellia,  will  take  them  to  be  dead, 
because,  before  expansion,  they  are  very  dark  brown,  and 
have  a  dried  appearance.  Superb. 

C.  anemone/lore  rosea,  fine  rose,  the  exterior  petals  are 
large  and  well  rounded,  the  interior  very  full  of  small  short 
petals,  flower  very  persistant — foliage  large,  cordate,  acu- 
minate. Superb. 

*  We  have  now,  1839,  in  flower,  a  single  white,  very  similar  to 
this,  which  we  have  raised  from  the  seed  of  Dahliuflora,  a  good 
double  red  variety;  it, therefore, appears  impossible  to  predict  their 
character  from  the  parent  that  produced  the  seed. 


216  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [_Marck. 

C.  amabile.  This  exceedingly  perfect  flower  was  raised 
from  seed  by  J.  B.  Smith,  Esq.,  of  this  city ;  it  is  regu- 
larly imbricated,  the  extreme  petals  are  bright  rose, 
shading  to  delicate  pink,  and  then  again  shading  in  the 
centre  to  light  red.  The  plant  is  full  of  foliage  and  of  ex- 
cellent habit,  flower  about  three  and  a  half  inches  in  diame- 
ter. Magnificent. 

C.  atrorubens,  Loddiges'  red,  is  a  good  variety;  colour 
dark  red,  outside  petals  large,  inside  small  and  irregular, 
forming  a  very  distinct  character;  foliage  stiff';  grows  freely 
and  flowers  well ;  and  of  long  duration.  We  have  seen  a 
flower  stand  fresh  on  the  plant  two  months ;  however,  that 
cannot  be  a  rule, 'as  it  depends  on  the  situation.  Good. 

C.  aucubafblia,  bright  rose,  perfectly  double,  three  and 
a  half  inches  in  diameter,  a  free  bloomer — foliage  large, 
cordate,  pale  green,  and  sometimes  spotted  like  Aucuba 
japonica.  Good. 

C.  augusta,  cherry  red,  large,  finely  double,  centre  petals 
rather  irregular — foliage  dark  green.  Good. 

C.  americana,  blush,  medium  size,  finely  cupped  form, 
generally  spotted  with  rose,  an  American  seedling  by  Mr. 
Dunlap,  of  N.  Y.  Magnificent. 

C.  Bealiana,  or  Leana  Superba,  dark  crimson,  very 
large,  superbly  double,  cup  form.  Magnificent. 

C.  candidissima,  purest  white  flowers,  very  large,  four 
inches  or  more  in  diameter,  full  and  most  regularly  imbri- 
cated, and  resemble  very  much  the  old  double  white,  though 
more  perfect  in  form — leaves  rather  small,  of  an  elongated 
form,  smooth  and  pale  green,  often  spotted  with  yellow. 
The  plant  is  of  vigorous  growth,  and  a  Japan  variety. 
Magnificent. 

C.  cdrnea,  frequently  known  as  Middlemist's  blush. 
Double  pink,  one  of  the  original  varieties,  and  frequently 
produces  seeds,  from  which  many  very  fine  varieties  have 
been  obtained  ;  grows  freely.  Good. 

C.  chalmerii  perfecta,  delicate  waxy  rose,  perfectly  im- 
bricated form,  flower  medium  size,  very  persistent,  foliage 
pale  green,  plant  of  regular  pyramidal  growth.  Magnifi- 
cent. An  American  seedling  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Wm. 
Chalmers,  gardener  to  Geo.  Pepper,  Esq. 

C.  chandlerii  or  versicolor,  perfectly  double,  colour 
vivid  red,  with  occasional  splashes  of  pure  white;  the 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  217 

flowers  vary,  and  are  often  only  red — they  are  of  long, 
duration,  from  six  to  eight  weeks ;  foliage  large  and  dark 
glossy  green.  Magnificent. 

C.  cliveana,  large,  irregular,  double  flower,  of  a  bright 
cherry  red  colour :  plant  of  rather  slow  growth,  but  a  pro- 
fuse bloomer.  Superb. 

C.  coccinea,  deep  cherry  red,  a  double  flower  of  about 
three  inches  in  diameter ;  plant  of  a  very  neat  growth,  and 
a  most  profuse  bloomer;  it  frequently  produces  seed. 
Good. 

C.  colvillea,  pale  blush,  with  rose  spots  and  pink  stripes, 
is  partially  anemone  formed ;  but  very  compact  and  of  free 
growth;  leaves  cordate.  Superb. 

C.  concinna,  deep  cherry  red,  a  very  perfectly  imbri- 
cated double  flower,  about  three  and  a  half  inches  in  dia- 
meter ;  foliage  generally  a  little  undulated,  wood  slender. 
Superb. 

C.  consplc.ua,  (Loddigies,)  a  shrub  of  strong  handsome 
growth,  with  large  dark  green  foliage ;  flower  very  double ; 
five  inches  in  diameter;  bright  orange  red,  hemispherical 
shape ;  petals  erect,  and  appear  as  if  three  or  four  flowers 
were  united ;  it  is  profuse  of  bloom  and  very  conspicuous. 
Magnificent. 

C.  coronata,  shrub  of  stiff"  growth  ;  foliage  pale  green ; 
flower  large,  irregular,  and  double,  of  a  clear  pink  colour ; 
four  inches  in  diameter.  Very  good. 

C.  crassinervis,  a  good  improvement  on  the  original 
anemoneflura  or  JVaratah,  and  has  much  the  same  habit. 
Superb. 

C.  curvalifolia,  leaves  narrow  and  pointed;  plant  of 
good  habit ;  flower  pure  white ;  regular  and  very  double, 
petals  disposed  in  a  regular  rosette,  about  three  and  a  half 
inches  in  diameter.  Superb. 

C.  decora,  pale  rose,  flower  perfectly  double,  four  and  a 
half  inches  in  diameter,  three  rows  of  exterior  petals,  those 
of  the  centre  short  and  thick,  containing  a  few  concealed 
stamens — foliage  large  glossy  green.  Magnificent. 

C.  Derby  ana,  very  bright"  dark  red,  flower  finely  double 
cup-shaped,  petals  bold  and  broad  spoon-shaped  :  a  striking 
flower,  often  over  four  inches  in  diameter— foliage  of  a  very 
beautiful  green.  Superb. 

C.  Donkelari,  bright  red,  variegated  and  sprinkled  with 
19 


218  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [March. 

pure  white,  three  rows  of  large  petals  ahout  one  inch  broad 
and  two  inches  long:  centre  full  of  stamens,  flower  fully 
four  inches  in  diameter  ;  leaves  about  two  inches  broad  and 
four  inches  long;  this  will  be  an  elegant  variety  to  seed 
from,  and  is  of  Chinese  origin.  Magnificent. 

C.  delectlssima,  white,  profusely  striped  with  rose,  exte- 
rior petals  large  and  round ;  those  of  the  interior  are  closely 
set;  flower  nearly  four  inches  in  diameter;  leaves  very 
large,  ovate,  acuminate.  Superb. 

C.  Duchess  of  Orleans,  rose  white,  beautifully  spotted 
or  striped  Avith  rose,  perfect  form,  large,  a  free  bloomer. 
Magnificent. 

C.  dorsettia  or  parthoniana,  of  the  Belgians ;  leaves  flat 
and  closely  set,  of  a  dark  shining  green,  flower  very  large, 
nearly  five  inches  in  diameter,  of  a  pale  red,  mixed  with 
rose  and  white,  petals  closely  imbricated,  irregular,  and 
numerous;  those  of  the  centre  small.  Magnificent. 

C.  eclipse  or  Pressi,  of  the  English,  or  imperialis  of  the 
French ;  flower  pure  white,  with  rose  stripes,  four  inches 
in  diameter ;  irregular,  full,  and  double,  with  a  few  stamens 
appearing  among  the  petals ;  the  whole  flower  forms  an 
arched  centre,  almost  hemispherical;  leaves  long  and 
pointed,  of  a  clear  rich  green  :  we  have  seen  flowers  of  this 
plant  entirely  rose.  Magnificent. 

C.  elegans,  (Chandler's,)  flower  rosy  red,  fading  to 
nearly  white  in  the  centre ;  three  and  a  half  inches  in 
diameter,  exterior  petals  large  and  rounded  ;  those  of,  the 
interior  very  numerous,  and  beautifully  harmonize  ;  form- 
ing, as  it  were,  a  depressed  sphere ;  a  profuse  bloomer,  and 
of  a  neat  habit.  Magnificent. 

C.  eldfa,  violent  crimson,  spotted  with  white,  flower 
three  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  perfectly  imbricated 
to  the  very  centre,  and  of  the  most  perfect  double,  foliage 
dark  green,  plant  of  a  good  habit.  Magnificent. 

C.  elphingstonia,  red  spotted  with  white,  frequently 
four  inches  in  diameter,  exterior  petals  very  large,  regu- 
larly graduating  to  the  centre,  which  cover  a  few  hidden 
stamens,  foliage  dark  green  ;  plant  of  a  fine  habit.  Mag- 
nificent. 

C.  JEstherii,*  foliage  nearly  three  inches  wide  and  five 

*  Grown  by  J.  B.  Smith,  Esq.,  of  this  city,  who  is  a  very  success- 


March."]  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  219 

inches  long,  finely  serrated — nerves  prominent;  flower, 
when  well  grown,  is  five  inches  in  diameter;  colour  pure 
white,  spotted,  and  striped  with  rose  and  pink,  petals 
broad,  bold,  erect,  and  closely  set;  the  bloom,  when  fully 
expanded,  forms  a  perfect  hemisphere,  and  contains  a  few 
hidden  stamina ;  it  is  the  finest  and  largest  of  all  the  striped 
varieties,  and  is  a  profuse  bloomer.  Magnificent. 

C.  eximia,  (Chandler's,)  flowers  bright  crimson,  four 
inches  in  diameter,  of  a  perfect  double  imbricated  form, 
foliage  light  green  and  deeply  serrated,  nerves  smooth ;  it 
is  of  free  growth,  but  with  us  does  not  bloom  freely.  Mag- 
nificent. 

C.  Fdirlea:  foliage  large,  ovate,  acuminate;  of  a  smooth 
shining  dark  green;  flowers  nearly  four  inches  in  diame- 
ter, of  a  rich  crimson,  marked  with  pure  white,  very  dou- 
ble. Superb. 

C.  Feastii,  pure  white,  with  a  few  spots  of  rose  fully 
double,  imbricated,  very  distinct,  foliage  dark  green,  of  free 
growth.  Magnificent.  A  seedling  by  Mr.  Feast,  of  Balti- 
more. 

C.  fimbriata :  fringed  white.  The  size,  shape  and  set 
of  the  flower  same  as  alba-plena,  and  the  white  as  pure, 
with  the  edges  of  the  petals  deeply  serrated,  or  rather 
fringed;  is  equally  as  free  in  flowering,  though  not  so 
strong  in  growth.  It  is  universally  admired,  and  in  great 
demand.  Magnificent. 

C.Jlavescens,  or  incdrnata.  Lady  Hume's  blush,  and 
by  some  called  buff.  It  is  a  very  double  flower,  beautifully 
regular  and  imbricated,  and  frequently  hexangular,  or  star- 
like;  the  bottom  of  the  petals  is  most  delicately  tinged 
with  blush ;  on  looking  into  it,  it  shows  more  like  a  blush 
vapour  than  nature,  and  is  a  great  favourite,  and  deserved- 
ly so :  flowers  and  grows  freely ;  foliage  rhomboid,  elon- 
gate, nerves  very  visible,  surface  smooth  and  pale  green, 
distinctly  serrate,  growth  strong  and  erect.  Magnificent. 

C.florida.  Flower  clear  cherry  red,  large,  frequently 
above  four  inches  in  diameter;  very  persistent;  exterior 
petals  large  and  well  rounded ;  the  interior  small  and  closely 
set,  rising  in  the  centre:  it  is  a  profuse  bloomer;  foliage 

ful  amateur  cultivator,  and  has  raised  some  of  the  finest  seedling 
Camellias  that  are  at  present  known. 


220  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. 

dark  green.  The  plant  is  of  a  neat  and  regular  habit. 
Magnificent. 

C.  Floyii,  one  of  the  most  noble  of  the  Camellias,  both 
in  flower  and  foliage ;  leaves  three  inches  wide,  and  nearly 
five  long;  smooth,  dark  green,  plant  of  strong  growth;  flower 
five  inches  in  diameter,  of  a  perfectly  double  form ;  the  ex- 
tremity is  cherry  red,  diverging  to  a  pale  rose  in  the  centre ; 
the  exterior  petals  are  bold,  round  and  elegant,  of  a  cup 
shape  when  newly  opened.  It  is  frequently  sold  in  Eu- 
rope under  the  imposing  name  of  Frederic  the  Great, 
though  grown  from  seed  by  Mr.  Floy,  of  New  York,  who 
has  been  very  successful  in  producing  several  other  esteem- 
ed sorts.  Magnificent. 

C.  Fordii,  a  free-growing  plant,  with  lively  green  foliage 
and  graceful  habit ;  flower  dark  rose,  three  inches  and  a 
half  in  diameter,  perfectly  double,  and  regularly  imbricated, 
forming  a  symmetrical  bloom.  Magnificent. 

C.formosa,  foliage  very  dark  green :  flower  fully  four 
inches  in  diameter,  of  a  dark  rose  colour,  regularly  double, 
petals  large  and  erect ;  interior  shortened,  covering  a  few 
stamens.  Superb. 

C.  frankofortensis,  or  Wellingtoni,  a  plant  of  a  very 
compact  habit;  flower  three  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter, 
beautiful  rose,  occasionally  spotted  with  white.  Magnifi- 
cent. 

C.fulgens,  flower  three  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter, 
and  very  bright  double  crimson,  approaching  to  C.  atro- 
rubens,  but  more  brilliant ;  petals  regularly  decreasing  to 
the  centre ;  foliage  a  lucid  green,  very  smooth ;  young  wood 
and  wood  buds  have  a  red  appearance.  We  have  no  doubt 
but  it  will  occasionally  seed ;  if  so,  it  will  be  a  first-rate 
breeder.  Superb. 

C.  Gilesii,  or  Nancy  Dawson.  The  leaves  are  large, 
ovate,  oblong  and  pointed  ;  flowers  above  four  inches  in 
diameter,  of  a  fine  dark  red  colour,  often  striped  with  white, 
and  is  "  distinguished  for  fragrance  as  well  as  beauty." 
Magnificent. 

C.  grunella,  foliage  oval  and  acute,  of  a  deep  glossy 
green,  flower  white,  three  inches  and  a  half;  rather  irregu- 
lar, but  perfectly  double,  a  profuse  bloomer,  and  of  good 
habit.  Superb. 

C.  Hendersoni,  raised  by  the  celebrated  camellia  grower, 
Mr.  Henderson,  of  Woodhall,  Scotland.  It  is  a  large  flower, 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  221 

four  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter,  beautifully  imbricated, 
and  perfectly  double,  of  a  bright  rose  colour,  foliage  round, 
ovate,  and  distinctly  serrated.  Magnificent. 

C.  Hampsteadii,  large  rosy  crimson,  quite  double,  with 
bold  petals,  foliage  dark  green,  heart-shaped,  a  free  grower. 
An  American  seedling  sent  out  by  Messrs.  Ritchie  and 
Dick. 

C.  Henri  Favre,  a  beautiful  rose  colour,  of  French  ori- 
gin, perfectly  double,  being  similar  to  Landrethi.  A  free 
bloomer,  foliage  pale  green.  Magnificent. 

C.  ffosackia,  large  dark  crimson,  nearly  five  inches  in 
diameter;  flower  rather  flat,  petals  numerous,  regularly 
decreasing  to  the  centre,  which  has  an  occasional  speck  of 
white.  It  does  seed,  and  Avill  prove  a  first  rate  variety  for 
that  purpose;  foliage  long  and  pointed,  rather  drooping;  is 
of  a  free  growth  and  bloom.  Superb. 

C.  imbricata,  foliage  very  large,  three  inches  wide  and 
four  and  a  half  long,  of  a  pale  green,  often  marked  with 
white ;  flowers  rich  crimson,  almost  invariably  marked  more 
or  less  with  white  ;  they  are  full  four  inches  in  diameter  ; 
the  petals  are  round,  and  regularly  disposed,  and  imbri- 
cated on  each  other,  gradually  decreasing  to  the  centre, 
forming  a  most  perfect  flower.  The  plant  grows  freely, 
and  blooms  profusely ;  no  collection  can  be  perfect  without 
it.  Magnificent. 

C.  intermedia  is  a  sport  from  S.  pseoni/lora;  it  is  a  very 
large  blush,  beautifully  suffused  with  rose.  Magnificent. 

C.  invincible,  or  punctdta,  flower  three  inches  and  a  half 
in  diameter,  rose  ground,  marked  and  striped  with  cherry 
red ;  the  circumference  petals  are  broad  and  convex  ;  those 
of  the  centre  small  and  erect.  This  Camellia  sometimes 
produces  flowers  entirely  red  or  rose-coloured;  it  is  of  free 
growth ;  leaves  round,  acuminate,  and  of  a  dark  green. 
Superb. 

C.  Jejfersoni,  rosy  crimson,  perfectly  imbricated  to  the 
centre  ;  flower  of  medium  size  ;  foliage  shining  green,  three 
to  four  inches  long,  and  two  wide.  A  seedling  by  Dr.  J. 
S.  Gunnell,  of  Washington  city.  Magnificent. 

C.  kermosine,  leaves  long  and  narrow,  strongly  nerved, 
of  a  pale   green,  bud  depressed  at  the  extremity,  flower 
cherry  red,  double,  petals  rather  numerous,  among  which 
are  a  few  stamens.      Very  good. 
19* 


222  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  [March. 

C.  Landrethia,  or  Jacksonia,  very  beautiful  pink,  fading 
to  the  centre,  a  perfectly  double  and  finely  imbricated 
flower,  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  a  free  bloomer,  and 
a  plant  of  good  habit ;  leaves  ovate,  acuminate,  pale  green. 
We  have  seen  the  flower  profusely  spotted  with  white. 
This  elegant  Camellia  was  grown  from  seed  by  D.  and  C. 
Landreth,  and  bloomed  first  in  the  spring  of  1829.  Mag- 
nificent. 

C.  latifolia,  leaves  three  inches  wide  and  four  inches  and 
a  half  long,  point  recurved,  a  fine  glossy  green ;  flower 
cherry  red,  cup  form,  interior  petals  irregular,  festooned 
and  curled,  those  of  the  exterior  bold  and  round,  about 
three  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter.  Superb. 

C.  minuta,  plant  vigorous,  leaves  nearly  orbicular,  and 
three  inches  and  a  half  long,  very  shining  and  nerved  flower 
three  inches  in  diameter,  of  a  beautiful  cherry  red,  petals 
regularly  imbricated,  and  arranged  into  a  vase  form;  the 
centre  is  of  a  vivid  red.  Superb. 

C.  mutdbilis  traversii,  foliage  very  large  and  almost  cor- 
date, plant  of  an  elegant  and  free  growth,  leaves  rather 
reflexed  and  of  a  lively  green,  nerves  very  conspicuous, 
flower  four  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter,  regular,  and  very 
double :  it  opens  a  delicate  rose,  and  soon  changes  to  a  vio- 
let purple,  shaded  with  a  faint  line  of  white,  an  unique 
plant  and  flower.  Magnificent. 

C.  myrtifolia,  known  in  some  collections  as  involuta. 
There  are  two  varieties  of  it,  major  and  minor;  the  former 
is  certainly  the  best,  and  has  a  very  handsome,  large  and 
regular  red  flower ;  the  centre  frequently  is  pink  and  pur- 
ple ;  it  is  much  the  shape  of  double  white,  only  the  petals 
are  more  cupped.  The  flower  is  of  considerable  duration. 
The  foliage,  though  small,  is  much  larger  than  that  of  any 
of  our  common  mystics,  which  might  make  many  mistake 
its  character ;  and  another  prominent  feature  is,  the  leaves 
are  much  recurved  and  shining ;  plant  pendulous,  of  a  pale 
green.  Magnificent. 

C.  nivalis,  flower  large  white,  very  pure,  having  three 
rows  of  large  round  exterior  petals,  the  centre  irregularly 
filled  with  small  petals,  showing  a  considerable  quantity  of 
stamens,  foliage  very  dark  green,  plant  of  a  good  habit, 
and  will  make  an  excellent  variety  for  producing  new  sorts. 
Superb. 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE  —  REPOTTING.  223 

C.  pfeoniflbra:  bright  pink,  large  flower,  fully  four 
inches  in  diameter,  two  rows  of  circumference  petals; 
those  of  the  centre  numerous,  very  close,  erect,  and  in  the 
form  of  a  sphere;  plant  of  slender  growth;  leaves  two 
inches  broad  and  three  inches  long,  of  a  delicate  green. 
Superb. 

C.  Palme  ria  alba:  leaves  two  inches  broad  and  three 
long,  rather  reflexed,  of  a  very  dark  green  —  is  a  plant  of 
neat  habit,  an1  profuse  in  blooming  —  flowers  finely  double, 
clear  white,  about  three  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter  ; 
petals  bold  and  round  —  regularly  imbricated,  though  not 
closely  set  ;  is  a  very  graceful  flower,  and  has  been  sold  in 
England  as  C.  Candidissima,  which  is  a  superior  article, 
and  even  figured  in  the  Florist's  Magazine  as  such.  There 
is  also  another  flower  by  this  name,  but  very  inferior,  being 
only  semi-double.  Superb. 

C.  Palmer's  perfection,  dark  crimson,  inclining  to  pur- 

Ele,  very  large,  perfectly  double,  and  of  handsome  form;  a 
•ee  bloomer.  Magnificent. 

C.  Pdrksii,  or  Park's  rose  striped  ;  pale  rose  marked  with 
white  ;  flower  about  four  inches  in  diameter  ;  petals  large, 
round,  and  irregular;  centre  showing  a  few  stamens.  This 
flower  is  to  some  sweet-scented  —  leaves  two  and  a  half 
inches  wide  and  three  and  a  half  inches  long  ;  roundish, 
oval,  and  slightly  acuminate  —  deeply  separated;  plant  of  a 
stiff  growth.  Superb.  (There  is  a  French  Parksii  :  single 
crimson.) 

C.  Philadelphia,  (Smith's,)  flowers  four  and  a  half  to 
five  inches  in  diameter;  the  circumference  petals  large 
and  round  ;  those  of  the  interior  smaller,  with  a  little  con- 
vexity, perfectly  double,  colour  changeable,  bright  crimson, 
spotted  with  white  ;  dark  rose,  fading  to  the  centre,  or  all 
crimson  :  even  the  same  plant  producing  all  the  variety  ; 
plant  of  an  upright  branching  habit  ;  leaves  ovate,  acumi- 
nate, of  medium  size,  and  a  very  dark  dull  green  ;  bloomed 
first  in  1834,  when  only  two  years  from  the  seed,  and  the 
flower  was  then  four  and  three-quarter  inches  in  diameter. 
Magnificent. 

C.  picturata:  leaves  three  and  a  half  inches  wide  and 
four  and  a  half  inches  long,  of  a  bright  green  ;  flower  four 


inches  in  diameter  ;  spherical  and  extremely  double  ;  petals 
of  the  centre  irregular  and  closely  folded  ;  th 


those  of  the  peri- 


224  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [March. 

phery  or  circumference,  round  and  entire,  of  a  pure  white, 
occasionally  striped  with  red — a  few  hidden  stamens — plant 
of  an  elegant  habit.  Magnificent. 

C.  pomponia,  or  Kew  blush,  flowers  over  four  inches  in 
diameter ;  white,  with  a  tinge  of  blush  at  the  bottom  of  the 
petals,  which  has  a  good  effect  in  setting  off  the  flower. 
They  frequently  bloom  all  blush,  having  one  or  two  rows 
of  guard  or  outside  petals ;  those  of  the  inside  are  short, 
stubby,  and  generally  irregular,  continues  long  in  flower, 
yellow  anthers  among  the  short  petals,  and  seeds  when  the 
female  organ  is  perfect ;  foliage  similar  to  pseoniflbra,  a 
very  fast  grower,  and  flowers  freely.  Superb. 

C.  Prattii;*  flower  bright  rose,  full  four  inches  in  dia- 
meter, frequently  every  petal  having  a  white  stripe  from 
the  apex  to  the  base,  very  closely  and  regularly  imbricated 
to  the  very  centre  :  in  every  respect  equally  as  well  formed 
as  C.  imbricata;  leaves  two  and  a  half  inches  wide  and 
four  inches  long,  of  a  rich  smooth  green — is  a  plant  of  free 
growth  and  profuse  flowering ;  bloomed  first  in  1 830. 
With  pleasure  we  say,  it  is  our  first  seedling  of  merit. 
Magnificent. 

C.  Punctata,  see  Invincible. 

C.  Prince  Albert,  pale  rose,  stripjd  with  bright  red,  very 
distinct ;  a  Chinese  variety  perfectly  double,  a  large  flower ; 
petals  rather  short  in  the  centra.  Magnificent. 

C.  Queen  of  England,  dark  rosy  crimson,  with  an  occa- 
sional spot  oi  white;  large,  imbricated  arid  fully  double. 
Magnificent. 

C.  rosa  sinensis,  a  large  double  flower,  four  inches  in 
diameter ;  colour  bright  rosy  pink,  petals  long  and  full, 
closely  imbricated  to  the  centre:  a  very  distinct  variety, 
with  beautiful  dark  green  shining  foliage,  two  inches  wide 
and  three  and  a  half  long ;  grows  and  flowers  freely.  Mag- 
nificent. 

C.  rusea,  (China,')  petals  regularly  and  perfectly  imbri- 
cated, flower  frequently  star-shaped,  like  Hume's  blush, 
about  three  inches  in  diameter ;  colour  bright  rose,  chang- 
ing to  rosy  purple ;  foliage  pale  green ;  leaves  one  and  a 
half  inches  wide  and  three  inches  long;  plant  of  slender 

*  In  compliment  to  our  late  and  esteemed  patron,  H.  Pratt,  Esq., 
of  Lemon  Hill. 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE— -REPOTTING.  225 

habit,  though  well  formed,  and  a  profuse  bloomer.  Mag- 
nificent. 

C.  riibra-pleno,  or  GreavilPs  double  red,  is  a  strong 
growing  and  free  flowering  variety.  The  flowers  are 
large,  irregular,  and  very  double,  and  are  of  long  duration ; 
foliage  of  a  yellowish  green,  leaves  two  inches  wide  and 
three  inches  long;  pknt  of  a  stiff' habit.  Superb. 

C.  Rossii  ;  buds  very  pointed;  flower  four  inches  in 
diameter  ;  petals  of  the  periphery  large,  graduating  smaller 
to  the  centre,  though  a  little  irregular,  perfectly  double, 
colour  red,  with  an  occasional  tinge  of  white ;  foliage  dull 
green,  ovate,  acuminate,  pointed,  and  pendent ;  plant  of  a 
good  habit  and  free  of  bloom.  Superb. 

C.  Saccoi,  bright  rose,  imbricated  form,  very  perfect, 
fading  to  pale  rose,  a  free  bloomer.  Magnificent. 

C.  Sherwoodii,  rosy  crimson,  frequently  spotted  with 
pure  white,  very  double,  petals  reflexed  when  fully  open, 
a  free  grower  and  profuse  bloomer.  Magnificent.  A 
seedling  by  Mr.  Sherwood,  of  Laurel  Hill. 

C.  sesanqua  rosea.     See  among  the  species. 

C.  speciosa  is  a  most  splendid  variety,  has  been  called 
Chinese  striped  Waratah.  The  guard  petals  are  large, 
round,  and  bold;  colour  crimson  with  stripes  of  white ;  the 
centre  is  full  of  irregular  small  petals,  and  spotted ;  the 
foliage  three  inches  wide  and  four  inches  long,  and  more 
heart-shaped  than  any  of  the  others ;  grows  freely,  flower 
persistent,  four  inches  in  diameter,  and  highly  esteemed, 
and  considered  one  of  the  finest  of  the  coloured  Camellias. 
Magnificent. 

C.  spicdtum;  foliage  very  dark  shining  green  ;  leaves 
two  and  a  half  inches  wide  and  four  inches  long,  very 
pointed;  flower  bright  red,  nearly  four  inches  in  diameter; 
circumference  petals  large  and  round,  gradually  diminish- 
ing to  the  centre,  and  concealing  a  few  stamens :  the  plant 
grows  and  flowers  freely,  and  is  of  an  upright  branching 
habit.  Superb. 

C.  spUndens;  rosy  red,  flower  full  and  bold,  nearly  four 
inches  in  diameter;  petals  few,  but  very  large  and  round, 
lying  gently  over  each  other,  showing  a  few  stamens  in  the 
centre — is  very  attractive  and  conspicuous  in  a  collection ; 
foliage  dark  green,  ovate,  acuminate.  Superb. 

C.  spoffbrthiana;  foliage  deep  plain  green,  acutely  ser- 


226  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  \_Mdrcll. 

rated,  plant  handsome  and  vigorous ;  flower  three  and  a 
half  inches  in  diameter,  of  a  pure  white,  with  an  occasional 
red  stripe ;  petals  rather  irregular,  full  and  double,  though 
showing  a  few  stamens.  Superb. 

C.  spofforthiana  cornea;  flower  larger  than  the  former, 
otherwise  very  similar.  Superb. 

C.  sweetia  vera;  leaves  three  inches  long  and  four 
inches  wide,  distinctly  serrate,  of  a  fine  shining  green, 
plant  of  an  upright  free-growing  habit ;  flower  nearly  four 
inches  in  diameter,  with  three  rows  of  circumference  petals 
—rose  white,  sprinkled  with  bright  red  ;  those  of  the  centre 
small  and  erect,  concealing  a  few  sterile  stamens.  Magni- 
ficent. There  is  a  spurious  plant  out  under  this  name, 
which  is  very  inferior. 

C.  tricolor;  foliage  pale  green,  two  inches  wide  and 
three  and  a  half  inches  long,  distinctly  serrated,  with  the 
nerves  very  prominent;  flower  full  four  inches  in  diameter 
— semi-double ;  petals  large  and  round — very  beautifully 
set ;  colour  white,  shaded  with  various  shades  of  red,  rose, 
&c.  A  superb  variety  to  produce  seeds,  having  the  female 
organ  very  perfect,  and  was  introduced  from  China  by  Dr. 
Siebold.  Superb.  - 

C.  triumphans;  foliage  dark  green:  leaves  roundish 
oval,  slightly  pointed  with  nerves,  and  serratures  very  dis- 
tinct ;  flower  nearly  four  inches  in  diameter,  of  a  bright 
cherry  red,  shaded  with  rose;  petals  regular,  round,  and 
large,  a  little  recurved  at  the  extremity,  and  gracefully  im- 
bricated to  the  centre,  which  is  occasionally  striped  with 
white :  the  plant  is  of  a  good  habit  and  free  growth.  Mag- 
nificent. 

C.  variabilis:  this  is  a  sportive  variety  of  C.  pseoniflora, 
with  flower  and  foliage  of  same  character;  frequently 
blooming  rose-striped,  or  marked  with  pink,  blush,  &c. 
Magnificent. 

C.  variegata  is  one  of  the  old  standard  varieties,  and 
very  much  esteemed.  It  is  striped  with  red  and  white ; 
sometimes  the  ground  is  red,  with  Avhite  streaks  or  blotches, 
and  vice  versa;  nearly  four  inches  in  diameter,  petals  large 
and  round,  rather  loose,  centre  showing  a  number  of  sta- 
mens ;  foliage  very  fine  dark  green,  three  inches  wide  and 
four  inches  long.  We  have  had  seed  from  it.  Plant  of  a 
good  habit  and  a  profuse  bloomer.  Superb. 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  227 

C.  Walbdnkiana;  foliage  pale  green,  two  inches  broad 
and  nearly  four  inches  long ;  plant  of  rather  loose  habit ; 
flower  greenish  white,  full  four  inches  in  diameter;  petals 
large  and  oval,  irregularly  tufted,  showing  a  number  of 
stamens,  though  very  double.  We  are  inclined  to  believe 
that  this  is  the  lutea  alba  of  some  catalogues.  Superb. 

C.  Wdrdii;  very  dark  green  foliage;  leaves  rather 
cordate  and  undulate,  of  a  coriaceous  texture  ;  plant  of  a 
branching  stiff  habit ;  flower  full  three  inches  in  diameter, 
very  persistent — circumference  petals  large  and  round ; 
those  of  the  interior  small,  round,  and  closely  set,  rather 
flattened,  colour  vivid  crimson.  This  fine  variety  is  another 
by  Mr.  Floy,  of  New  York.  Superb. 

C.  PFoodsii;  foliage  light  green;  leaves  two  inches  wide 
and  four  inches  long ;  plant  of  a  rapid  growth  and  regular 
shape  ;  flower  four  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  of  a  bright 
rose-colour ;  petals  large  and  rounding  in  the  periphery ; 
those  of  the  centre  rather  irregular — perfectly  double,  and- 
blooms  with  difficulty.  We  have  observed  it  to  bloom 
finest  when  a  gentle  heat  was  applied,  or  when  the  plant 
flowered  in  March  or  April.  Magnificent.  (Soil  No.  11 
for  the  whole  family.) 

There  is  another  Camellia  named  Woodiana,  with  foliage 
very  similar  to  the  former,  but  the  flower  is  cherry  red  and 
only  semi-double.  We  beg  to  observe  that,  in  giving  de- 
scriptions of  the  camellia,  we  have  invariably,  as  far  as 
known,  described  the  best  variety,  where  there  were  several 
varieties  under  one  name.  The  new  varieties  in  this  beau- 
tiful family  of  plants  are  increasing  with  astonishing  rapi- 
dity. The  seedlings  of  this  country  alone,  would  of  them- 
selves form  a  collection  of  every  shade  and  colour,  though 
many  of  them  are  almost  alike,  especially  among  the  whites 
and  reds — nearly  fac-similes  except  in  foliage.  The  de- 
scription of  such  we  have  carefully  avoided.  Indeed,  we 
boldly  assert,  though  an  extensive  cultivator  of  over  two 
hundred  varieties,  that  there  are  not  more  than  one  hun- 
dred varieties  known  worthy  of  a  passing  remark,  except 
for  their  deformed  character. 

Carmichselia  austrdlis,  the  only  species,  has  very  curi- 
ous foliage,  which  the  lilac  legurhinose  flowers  come  out 
of,  and  continue  from  April  to  June.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Ceanothus  azureus  is  the  only  species  of  the  genus 


228  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTiNO.  [March. 

worth  cultivating;  it  blooms  profusely  from  May  to  July, 
and  has  considerable  attraction  with  its  brilliant  blue  spikes 
of  small  flowers.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Chorizemas,  about  ten  species,  foliage  very  variable ; 
flowers  small  and  papilionaceous,  often  very  profuse  ;  colour 
red  and  yellow;  though  small,  they  are  very  neat.  C. 
nana  and  C.  ilicifolia  are  pretty ;  but  nothing  of  the  kind 
can  exceed  C.  ovdta  and  C.  Henchmanii,  with  their  beau- 
tiful scarlet  blossoms,  which  are  in  great  profusion;  if 
grown  from  seed,  they  will  flower  freely  the  second  year ; 
drain  the  pots  well.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Cinerarias,  Cape  aster,  about  twelve  belong  to  the  green- 
house. They  are  herbaceous,  or  half  shrubby,  soft  wooded 
plants.  C.  speciusa,  C.  amelloldes,  (now  called  Jlgathaea 
coelestus,)  C.  purpitrea,  and  C.  lanata,  are  among  the  finest 
of  the  species;  flowers  blue  or  yellow;  the  latter  is  con- 
sidered the  handsomest  of  the  genus.  The  exterior  petals 
are  bright  purple,  and  the  interior  ones  white,  and,  with 
A.  ccelestus,  flowers  most  of  the  year ;  flowers  syngenesious 
and  star-like.  The  herbaceous  species  must  be  treated  as 
previously  mentioned  for  that  kind  of  plant.  The  new 
hybrids  of  this  genus  are  rivaling  the  species,  both  for 
beauty  of  colour  and  size  of  flower ;  among  these  are  C. 
Kingii,  C.  triumphant,  C.  caslestis,  C.  ignescens,  C.  Hen- 
d€rs6nia,and  V.  IVaterhousia.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Cinnambmum  camphora  is  the  camphor  tree  of  com- 
merce ;  is  an  excellent  evergreen,  but  has  no  beauty  in  its 
flower.  The  foliage,  when  bruised,  has  a  camphorated 
odour.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Cistus,  or  Rock  rose.  There  are  above  thirty  species, 
principally  natives  of  Europe,  consequently  hardy  there, 
and  form  a  great  ornament  to  their  gardens,  being  very 
abundant  and  various  in  flower ;  but  with  us  they  will  not 
stand  the  rigour  of  winter.  We  have  no  doubt,  however, 
but,  through  time,  some  kinds  may  be  grown  that  will 
withstand  the  greatest  cold  of  the  middle  states  ;  they  are 
low  shrubby  plants,  of  easy  cultivation.  C.  laduniferus, 
C.  sdlignus,  C.  populifolius,  C.  imdulutus,  and  C.formo- 
sus,  are  perhaps  the  best :  the  flowers  are  of  short  duration, 
frequently  only  for  one  day  ;  but  the  quantity  makes  up 
this  deficiency,  being  constantly  in  flower  in  May  and  June, 
and  sometimes  flower  again  in  autumn.  C.  creticus  is 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  229 

most  productive  of  the  gum  laudanum,  which  is  secreted 
about  its  leaves  and  branches.  The  flowers  are  generally 
five-petaled,  and  some  of  them  large  and  showy ;  centre 
full  of  stamens.  (Soil  No.  3.) 

Citrus.  This  genus  contains  the  most  grand  and  noble 
of  fruit-bearing  trees  :  Loudon  says,  "  The  golden  apples  of 
the  heathens,  and  forbidden  fruit  of  the  Jews,  are  supposed 
to  allude  to  this  family."  They  are  all  handsome  ever- 
green shrubs  or  trees,  bearing  highly  odoriferous  flowers 
and  beautiful  golden  fruit.  In  cultivation,  the  orange  fruit 
is  dry  and  more  insipid  than  in  the  tropics,  but  the  lemon 
is  far  superior  in  its  quality.  The  varieties  of  orange  are 
extensive,  nearly  eighty  kinds  being  cultivated  in  Italy ; 
but,  with  us,  the  sweet,  sour,  and  rough-skinned  are  the 
principal  sorts,  and  more  recently  we  cultivate  the  manda- 
rin, otaheitean,  and  other  beautiful  dwarf  Chinese  varieties; 
also,  the  striped-leaved  varieties  of  Bergamotte.  The  lemon 
are  nearly  as  numerous,  though  not  so  apparently  distinct ; 
it  is  very  valuable  as  a  cultivated  fruit,  and  should  be  in 
every  green-house  or  conservatory.  The  lime  and  the 
shaddock  should  not  be  overlooked,  as  they  are  very  orna- 
mental, especially  the  latter  when  it  arrives  at  a  fruit-bear- 
ing state.  (Soil  No.  18,  when  young  plants,  and  when 
fruit-bearing  keep  from  it  the  portion  of  sand.) 

Clematis,  Virgin's  Bower.  There  are  only  six  of  these 
belonging  to  the  green-house,  all  climbing  plants.  C.  aris- 
tata  and  C.  brachiata  are  the  best;  flowers  in  racemose 
clusters,  pure  white ;  foliage  small ;  and  natives  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope.  The  foliage  of  C.  aristata  is  cord- 
ate and  blotched.  Some  of  the  hardy  species  and  varie- 
ties make  beautiful  plants  for  the  green-house,  such  as  C. 
Jlorida,  C.  sieboldi  and  P.  coeriilea ;  they  are  profuse 
bloomers  and  free  growers.  (Soil  No.  3.) 

Clerodendron  fragrans  multiplex,  frequently  known 
under  the  name  of  Volkamenia  japonica,  which  is  a  very 
different  plant,  and  not  supposed  to  be  in  this  country.  It 
keeps  in  a  good  green-house,  and  flowers  well,  frequently 
blooming  during  winter,  and,  if  planted  in  the  garden  dur- 
ing summer,  will  flower  superbly.  The  flowers  have  a 
delicious  fragrance ;  if  the  foliage  is  rubbed  with  the  hand 
the  smell  is  not  so  pleasant.  The  leaves  are  large,  round, 
20 


230  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [_M(trch. 

ovate  and  tomentose  ;  flowers  corymbose,  compact  and  ter- 
minal. (Soil  No.  12.) 

Clethra  arborea  and  C.  .arborea  variegata  are  both  fine 
shrubs  ;  the  latter  is  preferable ;  leaves  are  oblong,  acumi- 
nate and  serrated,  having  a  gold-coloured  edge ;  flowers 
white,  downy,  in  large  branching  racemose  spikes,  and 
sweet-scented  ;  grows  freely.  (Soil  No.  2.) 

Clidnthus  punicens,*  or  Glory  flower.  This  magnificent 
plant  a  few  years  ago  produced  great  excitement  among 
European  cultivators,  which  consequently  reached  this 
country.  The  plant  sold  at  extravagant  prices,  and  cost 
the  writer  upwards  of  fifty  dollars  to  introduce  a  living 
plant  of  it,  which  was  done  three  years  ago.  The  plant 
has  been  cultivated  in  pots,  and  has  not  yet  given  general 
satisfaction  ;  the  leaves  are  smooth,  pinnated,  of  a  delicate 
green,  consisting  of  eight  pairs  and  an  old  one ;  the  stem 
is  of  a  soft  woody  nature ;  the  splendid  large  scarlet,  legu- 
minose,  pea-like  flowers  grow  in  clusters,  hanging  down 
from  the  axils  of  the  leaves  on  the  lateral  branches  ;  each 
flower  is  about  two  inches  long.  To  have  it  in  perfection, 
it  must  be  grown  in  large  pots,  or  planted  in  the  ground  in 
the  conservatory  or  green-house,  or  even  a  good  pit  would 
do ;  it  is  a  native  of  New  Zealand,  and  is  tolerably  hardy 
in  the  south  ;  it  makes  a  magnificent  hardy  shrub.  (Soil 
No.  10.) 

CRvea  nobilis,  a  tuberous  herbaceous  plant,  closely  allied 
to  JBrunsvigia.  The  flowers  are  said  to  be  very  splendid  ; 
colour  scarlet  and  green :  although  it  has  been  in  the  coun- 
try several  years,  we  are  not  aware  of  its  ever  having 
bloomed.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

•  Cobsea  scdndens,  the  only  species.  It  is  a  climber  of  very 
rapid  growth,  has  been  known  to  grow  above  two  hundred 
feet  in  one  summer ;  large  bell-shaped  flowers ;  when  they 
are  newly  expanded,  they  are  of  a  pale  green  colour,  and 
change  to  dark  purple  :  will  grow  in  the  garden  during 
summer,  bearing  a  continual  profusion  of  flowers,  but  will 
not  stand  frost.  When  this  plant  becomes  too  large  in  the 

*  A  plant  five  feet  high,  and  only  eighteen  months  old,  now  in 
the  beautiful  conservatory  of  Gen.  R.  Patterson,  of  this  city,  has 
upward  of  fifty  racemes  or  clusters' of  flowers,  varying  from  five 
to  nine  on  a  raceme,  and  will  be  in  full  bloom  in  a  few  weeks  ;  this 
is  the  finest  specimen  we  have  heard  of  in  this  country. 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  231 

house,  do  not  cut  it  close  to  the  root,  except  there  is  a 
young  shoot  arising  to  carry  off  the  superabundant  sap,  for 
the  old  wood  will  not  push,  which  will  soon  cause  a  mor- 
tification. 

The  best  method  to  adopt  in  such  a  case  is,  to  turn  back 
a  shoot,  and  lay  it  in  the  ground  to  root,  when  it  will  be- 
come a  young  plant,  which  should  always  be  done  as  soon 
as  it  appears  unsightly.  It  does  best  to  be  planted  in  the 
ground,  but  will  not  give  any  satisfaction  as  to  flowering  in 
a  pot.  It  will  flower  as  an  annual  if  sown  in  pots  this 
month,  and  placed  in  a  warm  room  or  hot-bed,  and  planted 
into  the  garden  about  the  middle  of  May ;  it  seeds  freely. 
(Soil  No.  11.) 

Coronilla,  a  very  few  are  fine  species  in  the  green- 
house. C.  glaiica  is  a  celebrated  plant  among  us,  as  a 
free  and  early  flowering  shrub.  C.  valentiana  and  C. 
mmindlis  are  equally  so,  flower  from  April  to  June,  colour 
yellow ;  papilionaceous  flowers  in  clusters ;  agree  best  in 
summer  with  partial  shade.  Drain  the  pots  well.  (Soil 
No.  12.) 

Correct,  five  species  and  several  varieties,  all  very  pretty 
dwarf  shrubs,  and  flower  profusely ;  foliage  ovate,  cordate, 
and  either  rusty  or  downy  beneath.  C.  alba  and  C.  rufa 
have  both  white  flowers  a  little  tubular.  C.  pulchella  is 
a  very  handsome,  erect  growing  plant ;  flowers  large  and 
tubular,  of  a  bright  red  colour,  and  grows  freely.  C. 
speciosa  has  been  long  admired  as  a  splendid  free-flower- 
ing plant ;  flowers  same  shape  as  C.  pulchella,  but  more 
elongated ;  colour  red  and  yellowish  green.  C.  virens  is 
a  very  free  grower,  flowers  same  shape  as  the  last  two, 
colour  entirely  green.  The  last  three  mentioned  are  abun- 
dant flowerers,  when  the  plants  are  well  established  ;  hav- 
ing a  continued  succession  from  November  to  June,  pos- 
sessing the  valuable  requisite  of  flowering  through  the 
winter,  and  ought  to  be  in  every  collection.  They  require 
an  airy  situation  and  the  pots  to  be  well  drained.  The 
plants  in  summer  must  not  be  fully  exposed  to  the  sun. 
(Soil  No.  6.) 

Crdssula.  This  genus  has  now  no  plant  in  it  attractive 
in  beauty.  Several  beautiful  plants  in  our  collections  be- 
long to  Rochea  and  Kalosdnthus.  There  is  a  strong  grow- 
ing succulent  plant,  known  in  our  collections  as  C.falcata, 


232  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  [March. 

which  is  R.falcata.  It  seldom  flowers;  the  minor  variety 
blooms  profusely  every  year  from  May  to  August,  and  has 
showy  scarlet  flowers  in  terminal  panicles.  The  plants 
known  as  C.  coccinea  and  C.  versicolor  are  now  given  to 
the  genus  Kalosdnthus.  The  flowers  of  the  former  are 
scarlet,  wax-like,  terminal,  and  sessile ;  those  of  the  latter 
are  rose  and  white,  also  wax-like,  and  are  both  desirable 
plants,  requiring  very  little  water  during  winter.  (Soil 
No.  18.) 

Cratagus.  There  are  none  of  these  belonging  to  the 
green-house  ;  but  there  is  a  plant  in  the  collections,  known 
as  C.  glabra,  which  is  Photinia  serrulata,  a  native  of 
China,  and  is  a  very  handsome  plant,  has  long  foliage, 
deeply  serrated,  very  shining.  P.  arbutifolia,  a  native  of 
California,  and  is  the  finest  of  the  genus;  flowers  in  large 
dense  panicles,  foliage  larger  than  the  former,  and  not  so 
deeply  serrated ;  they  are  both  comparatively  hardy,  and 
we  soon  expect  to  see  them  acclimated.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Crinum,  several  species  do  well  in  the  green-house, 
especially  C.  Mexicdnum,  C.  capense,  and  C.  ascotica: 
they  require  considerable  pot  room  to  make  them  do  well. 
(Soil  No.  12.) 

Crowea  saligna  is  among  one  of  the  finest  plants  of  New 
South  Wales.  It  flowers  at  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  colour 
pink,  with  five  petals,  connected  by  entangled  hairs ;  in 
flower  from  April  to  December,  and  frequently  through  the 
winter ;  foliage  lanceolate,  and  a  fine  green.  The  plant 
grows  neat,  and  requires  an  airy  situation  :  drain  the  pots 
well.  (Soil  No.  1.) 

Cunonia  capnesis,  the  only  species,  and  a  handsome 
shrub,  with  large  pinnated  shining  leaves,  beautifully  con- 
trasted by  numerous  dense  elongated  branches  of  small 
white  flowers,  and  twigs  of  a  red  colour,  having  more  the 
habit  of  a  tropical  than  of  a  Cape  of  Good  Hope  plant. 
(Soil  No.  2.) 

Cupressus  may  be  desired  in  collections,  as  erect  and 
handsome  growing  evergreen  shrubs.  C.  lusitanica  the 
famed  cedar  of  Goa ;  C.  pendula  and  C,  juniperoides  are 
the  most  desirable ;  the  flowers  are  insignificant  and  yel- 
lowish ;  we  have  no  doubt  they  may  prove  hardy.  C. 
lusitanica  is  the  handsomest  tree  of  the  genus.  Its  abun- 


March.]  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  233 

dant,  very  long  dichotomous  branchlets  distinguish  it  from 
all  the  evergreens  of  the  conoferious  tribe.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Cyrtdnthus,  a  genus  of  Cape  bulbs,  containing  nine  spe- 
cies, and  will  do  very  well  in  the  green-house,  but  we  find 
the  assistance  of  the  hot-house  a  great  advantage.  They 
are  closely  allied  to  Crinum,  The  tubes  of  the  flowers  are 
long  and  round,  with  various  shades  of  orange,  yellow,  red, 
and  green.  C.  odorus,  C.  stridtus,  C.  obliquus,  and  C. 
vittatus,  are  the  finest.  When  the  bulbs  are  dormant, 
which  will  be  from  October  to  January,  they  should  not 
get  any  water ;  before  they  begin  to  grow,  turn  the  bulbs 
out  of  the  old  earth,  repotting  it  immediately.  At  this 
time  they  should  be  potted  with  the  bulbs  of  earth  entire, 
which  will  cause  them  to  flower  stronger.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Dampieras,  four  species.  The  genus  is  named  in  hon- 
our of  Captain  W.  Dampier,  a  famous  voyager,  has  Lobe- 
lia-like flowers,  either  blue  or  purple.  C.  purpurea,  C. 
undulata,  and  C.  stricta,  are  the  finest;  the  former  two  are 
shrubby ;  the  latter  is  herbaceous ;  they  all  flower  freely. 
(Soil  No.  6.) 

Daviesias,  above  ten  species,  principally  natives  of  New 
South  Wales,  all  yellow  papilionaceous  flowers.  D.  uli- 
cina,  D.  latifolia,  D.  aciculdris,  and  D.  incrassata,  are 
very  fine  species,  flower  and  grow  freely,  and  require  to  be 
well  drained ;  bloom  from  April  to  August.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Dillwynias,  above  twelve  species,  and  plants  very  little 
known.  D,  cinerescens,  D.floribunda,  D.  teretifolia,  and 
D.  phylicoides,  are  desirable  plants  ;  flowers  small,  papilio- 
naceous, and  colour,  yellow  and  red.  They  are  very  liable 
to  suffer  from  too  much  wet ;  while  dormant,  therefore,  the 
pots  must  be  effectually  drained.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Diosmas.  This  pretty  genus  of  heath-looking  plants  has 
recently  been  very  much  divided  by  botanical  professors. 
The  genera  that  they  have  been  given  to  are  Adenan- 
dra,  tfcmadenia,  rfgathosma,  and  Barosma.  However, 
we  incline  to  adhere  to  the  original  name,  and  recom- 
mend D.  capitata,  D.  oppositifolia,  D.  riibra,  D.  alba,  D. 
fragrdns,  D.  uniflora,  D.  serrati/olia,  D.  speciosa,  and  D. 
pulchella.  They  are  all  profuse  blooming  plants,  with 
generally  small  flowers  of  a  white  lilac  or  pink  colour.  It 
is  supposed  that  the  dried  leaves  of  pulchella  are  used  by 
the  Hottentots  as  powder  to  mix  with  the  grease  with  which 
20* 


234  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [Match, 

they  anoint  their  bodies.  Some  travelers  assert  that  it 
gives  them  so  rank  an  odour,  that  they  sometimes  could 
not  bear  the  smell  of  those  who  were  their  guides.  In  fact, 
the  foliage  of  all,  if  rubbed  by  the  hand  while  on  the  plant, 
has  a  very  strong  smell,  some  of  them  very  agreeable, 
others  disagreeable.  They  are  all  evergreen  small  neat 
growing  shrubs.  They  require,  while  growing  luxuriantly, 
to  have  their  young  shoots  topped  to.  make  them  bushy ; 
drain  all  the  pots  well,  and  keep  them  in  airy  situations, 
and  not  crowded  with  other  plants,  or  they  will  become 
slender  and  unsightly.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Diplacus  puniceus.  This  shrubby  (mimulus)  plant  was 
introduced  by  Mr.  Nuttall  from  California,  by  seeds,  in 
1836,  and  sent  by  us  to  England  in  1837.  The  flowers 
are  of  a  scarlet  orange,  about  one  inch  and  a  half  long,  and 
produced  in  pairs ;  from  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  on  young 
wood,  the  plant  requires  considerable  nourishment;  for  the 
more  rapid  it  grows,  the  more  profuse  are  its  flowers,  which 
bloom  from  May  to  September,  and  are  rather  showy.  In 
the  southern  states  it  will  prove  a  hardy  shrub,  blooming 
nearly  the  whole  year.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Dracaena,  or  Dragon  tree.  The  D.  australis  and  D. 
ferrea  will  keep  in  the  green-house,  and  are  attractive 
plants  for  their  foliage,  especially  the  latter,  which  is  of  a 
purple  crimson  and  very  unique  ;  the  flowers  are  on  large 
terminal  spikes.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Doryanthus  excelsa,  a  Yucca  looking  plant  belonging  to 
the  natural  order  of  Amaryllidea ;  the  leaves  arise  from  the 
root,  and  are  about  three  inches  wide  and  three  feet  long; 
the  flowers  are  bright  crimson,  surmounted  on  a  stem  about 
twenty  feet  high.  The  plant  does  not  bloom  till  it  is  of 
considerable  size.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Dryandras.  This  genus  is  closely  allied  in  character 
and  habits  to  Bdnksia,  and  contains  above  sixteen  species. 
D.  nivea  has  most  beautiful  foliage,  very  long  and  deeply 
indented.  D.  formosa  has  a  scent  like  the  fruit  of  an 
apricot.  D.  nervoso,  D.  Jloribunda,  D.  armata,  D.  plu~ 
mosa,  D.  Baxteri,  D.  nervosa,  and  D.  falcdta,  are  the 
most  conspicuous,  and  all  highly  desirable  plants  in  collec- 
tions. They  are  very  delicate  of  importation ;  flowers  are 
straw  and  orange-coloured,  and  thistle-like.  Seeds  in 


March."}  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  235 

small  cones.  Treat  them  the  same  as  directed  for  Bdnk- 
sias.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Dyckias,  two  species  of  very  curious  growing  plants,  of 
a  dwarf  habit  with  bright  orange  flowers;  they  may  be 
cultivated  with  the  aloe  tribe,  to  which  they  have  a  simi- 
larity. D.  ranflora  and  I),  ramotiflora;  the  latter  is  in 
the  country.  (Soil  No.  18.) 

Echeveria,  a  genus  of  succulent  plants  chiefly  from 
Mexico  and  California.  E.  grandi/lora,  flowers  green  and 
red.  E.  pulvendenta,  flowers  red.  The  foliage  of  this 
species  is  delicately  covered  with  powder,  which  gives  it  a 
very  beautiful  appearance.  E.  bicolor  is  also  a  pretty 
species:  they  require  to  be  kept  very  dry  during  winter. 
(Soil  No.  10.) 

Edwdrdsias,  about  four  species,  very  beautiful  foliaged 
plants,  and  have  very  curious  yellow  flowers,  but  do  not 
flower  until  the  plant  becomes  large.  E.  grandlflora,  E. 
chrysophylla,  and  E.  microphylla,  are  the  best,  and  are 
tolerably  hardy,  though  doubtful  of  ever  being  acclimated. 
The  flowers  are  leguminose,  foliage  ovate,  pinnate,  from 
eight  to  forty  on  one  footstalk,  and  appear  to  be  covered 
with  gold  dust.  The  hardier  they  are  grown,  the  more 
visible  it  Avill  appear.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Elichrysums.  This  genus  is  now  extinct,  and  two 
splendid  species  of  it  given  to  others.  E,  proliferum  is 
now  Phoendcoma  prolifera,  and  has  beautiful  purple  rayed 
flowers,  and  highly  esteemed:  the  foliage  small,  round, 
ovate,  smooth,  and  closely  imbricated.  E.  spectdbile  is 
now  Jlphelexis  humilis,  has  pine-like  foliage,  and  large 
light  purple  flowers ;  care  must  be  taken  that  they  are  not 
over-watered  ;  drain  the  pots  well.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Enkidnthus,  only  two  species,  both  very  fine.  E.  quin- 
quKflorus  has  large  ovate,  acuminate  foliage,  flowers  pink 
and  pendulous ;  very  handsome.  E.  reliculdtus,  the  foli- 
age is  netted,  and  the  flowers  blush :  they  are  liable,  when 
dormant,  to  suffer  from  wet.  Be  sure  to  drain  the  pots 
well,  and  be  sparing  in  water  while  in  that  state.  (Soil 
No.  11.) 

Epdcris,  above  twelve  species,  and  all  very  ornamental. 
E.  grandi/lora  has  been  celebrated  ever  since  it  was 
known  ;  the  foliage  is  small,  flat,  and  acuminate  ;  flowers 
tubular  and  pendulous,  bright  crimson,  with  a  tinge  of 


236  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [March. 

white,  and  verv  abundant,  in  flower  from  January  to  June. 
E.  pulchella  is  likewise  a  most  beautiful  plant ;  foliage  very 
small  and  closely  set,  flowers  pure  white,  and  in  long 
spikes,  sweet-scented.  E.  impressa,  foliage  impressed, 
and  flowers  of  a  rose  colour.  E.  paludosa,  flowers  white, 

fows  and  flowers  very  handsomely,  and  is  very  fragrant. 
.  purpurdscens  riibra  is  a  variety,  with  good  bright  red 
flowers.  E.  pallida,  rose  coloured,  long  tubular  flowers. 
E.  nivalis,  rosy  white.  E.  Townii,  beautiful  rosy  blush 
colour.  These  with  several  others  are  very  desirable. 
They  are  mostly  erect  growing  plants;  flower  from  Janu- 
ary till  August,  and  a  rough,  turfy,  sandy  soil  is  found 
most  congenial.  They  are  natives  of  the  mountainous 
districts  of  New  South  Wales.  The  pots  must  be  well 
drained ;  the  roots  will  run  with  avidity  among  the  pot- 
shreds.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Ericas,  heath.  There  are  in  cultivation  in  Europe 
above  five  hundred  and  fifty  species  and  varieties  of  this 
magnificent  genus.  About  sixty  years  ago  it  consisted 
only  of  a  few  humble  British  plants,  with  the  heath  of 
Spain,  E.  Af edit  err  anea,  which  is  at  present  most  common 
in  our  collections,  though  in  a  few  years  we  may  expect  to 
see  it  supplanted  by  others  more  splendid. 

In  their  native  countries  they  are  adapted  to  a  great 
many  useful  purposes.  In  the  north  of  Britain  the  poorer 
inhabitants  cover  their  cabins  or  huts  with  heath,  and  build 
the  walls  with  alternate  layers  of  it  and  a  kind  of  cement 
made  with  straw  and  clay.  They  likewise  brew  ale  and 
distil  spirits  from  the  tender  shoots  ;  and  it  has  been  known 
to  be  used  in  dying,  tanning,  and  many  other  useful  do- 
mestic purposes.  Encomium  on  their  beauty  is  not  requi- 
site; they  are  almost  as  diversified  in  colour  as  colour  itself. 
Many  are  graceful  and  elegant;  hundreds  are  pretty;  a 
few  noble  and  splendid ;  others  grotesque,  curious  and 
odoriferous.  To  cultivate  and  propagate  them  is  considered 
one  of  the  most  delicate  branches  of  floriculture.  Never- 
theless, it  has  been  said  by  a  scientific  writer,  that  "  those 
who  complain  of  the  difficulty  of  growing  the  heath,  are 
ignorant  people,  who  have  never  had  a  heath  to  grow."  The 
most  splendid  collection  in  Europe  is  under  the  care  of  Mr. 
M'Nab,  of  the  Royal  Botanic  Garden,  Edinburgh,  where 
there  are  two  large  houses  devoted  to  their  culture ;  and 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  237 

through  the  whole  year  a  continued  profusion  of  bloom  is 
kept  up.  Some  of  the  plants  are  eight  feet  in  diameter, 
and  fourteen  feet  high.  The  soil  used  is  a  coarse  sandy 
peat.  Pots  drained  with  potshreds,  and  pieces  of  freestone 
are  put  down  the  sides  of  the  large  pots  and  tubs :  where 
these  can  be  had  they  are  essential  to  the  culture  of  moun- 
tainous plants,  preventing  them  from  being  saturated  with 
moisture,  or  from  becoming  dry,  thus  keeping  the  roots  in 
a  medium  state ;  for  if  once  the  roots  are  allowed  to  get 
thoroughly  dried,  no  art  of  the  gardener  can  recover  them. 
This  may  be  the  true  reason  why  they  are  said  to  be  diffi- 
cult of  cultivation. 

In  the  summer  season  the  pots  must  be  kept  out  of  the 
violent  sun,  for  in  a  few  hours  the  pot  would  become  heat- 
ed, dry  the  roots,  and  cause  death,  or  a  brownness  of  foli- 
age which  would  never  again  become  natural.  In  winter, 
too,  much  fire  heat  will  also  hurt  them.  They  only  require 
to  be  kept  free  from  trost,  need  a  great  deal  of  air,  and 
plenty  of  light ;  consequently,  should  be  placed  near  the 
glass,  that  they  may  have  the  benefit  of  all  the  air  that  is 
admitted.  Their  flowers  are  as  varied  in  shape  as  variety 
or  colour,  but  they  all  partake  of  a  wax-like  nature,  and 
are  very  persistent.  (Soil  No.  5  for  young  plants  :  when 
older,  No.  6  will  do  better.) 

The  finest  and  most  select  varieties  that  appear  to  with- 
stand the  severity  of  the  summer,  are  the  following  : 


WHITE  FLOWERS.  YELLOW  FLOW-    RED  FLOWERS. 

ERS. 

rfrborea,  Bella, 

JJowieana,  Capitata,  Canaliculata, 

Caffra,  Epistoma,  Curviflora  rubra, 

Coiiferta,  Grandiflora.  Grdcilis, 

Jesminaflora,  SPAIITFT  FTOW 

Margaritdcea,          SCARLET  FLOW. 

/->  I        \  XiKb.  _.      v 

Odorata,  Pinea, 

Pellucida,  Ardcm,  Mediterrdnea. 

Phylicoides.  Coccinea, 

"     grandiftora,  PURPLE  FLOW  ERS. 
Vennx  coccinea, 

Vestita  coccinea.  Amcena. 


238  GREtfN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  [March. 

Denticuldta,  VARIOUS  CO-  Cruenta  superba. 

Fascicularis,  LOURS.  Rubida, 

Hispidula,  Tubiflora, 

Mammosa,  Jlbetina,  Ventricosasuperba- 

Pubescens,  JBdccans, ' 

Tenella.  Cerinthoides, 

Eriabotryajaponica,  Loquat,  or  Mespllus  japonica,  is  a 
fine  plant,  with  large  lanceolate,  distinctly  serrated  leaves, 
white  underneath;  small  white  flowers  on  a  racemose 
spike,  and  produces  a  fruit  about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  of 
a  fine  yellow  blush  colour,  and  of  tartish  flavour.  If  it 
flowers  in  the  autumn,  it  will  require  the  heat  of  a  hot- 
house to  ripen  the  fruit.  It  is  of  very  easy  culture,  and 
its  noble  aspect  is  never  passed  unobserved.  It  is  per- 
fectly hardy  in  the  southern  states,  and  forms  a  handsome 
evergreen.  (Soil  No.  11.) ' 

Erodiums,  Heron's  bill.  There  are  about  thirty  species, 
all  of  a  geranium  character,  and  there  are  among  them  some 
very  pretty  flowering,  soft  wooded,  shrubby,  herbaceous, 
and  annual  plants.  Only  a  few  of  them  belong  to  the 
green-house,  of  which  E.  incarnatum,  E.  crassifolium, 
and  E.  laciniatum,  are  the  finest ;  culture  similar  to  Gera- 
nium. The  flowers  of  these  are  scarlet,  pentapetalous  and 
veiny.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Erythiina  cristdgdlli,  or  Coral  plant.  If  this  magnifi- 
cent scarlet  flowering  plant  is  desired  to  be  kept  in  a  pot 
or  tub,  it  must  have  a  repotting  every  month  till  Septem- 
ber: to  keep  it  in  fine  blooming  condition,  it  is  worthy  of 
extra  care,  as  it  will  bloom  three  times  during  the  season, 
if  well  treated.  (Soil  No.  18.)  For  other  methods,  see 
Flower  Garden  for  April,  May  and  November. 

Escallonia,  a  shrubby  genus,  of  about  ten  species,  of 
rather  neat  blooming  plants,  of  a  strong  shrubby  habit. 
They  require  great  encouragement  to  flower  them  well,  if 
kept  in  pots  :  the  best  mode -of  treatment  would  be  to  plant 
them  in  pits  with  other  half  hardy  shrubs.  E.  rubra,  red 
flowering;  E.  glandulosa,  white;  and  E.  blfida,  pink,  are 
the  finest.  (Soil  No.  12.)  They  are  perfectly  hardy  south 
of  Virginia,  and  we  are  not  certain  but  they  may  become 
acclimated  here. 

Eucalyptus,  above  fifty  species  of  them,  and  the  tallest 


March."]  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  239 

growing  trees  of  New  Holland;  foliage  very  diversified, 
generally  of  a  hard  glaucous  texture.  From  their  rapid 
growth,  they  soon  grow  higher  than  the  loftiest  house. 
The  most  conspicuous  are,  E.  cordata,  E.  rostrata,  E. 
radidta,  E.  pulvigera,  E.  globifera,  E,  pulverulenta,  and 
E.  resinefera.  In  Van  Dieman's  Land,  a  manufactory  has 
been  established,  where  a  tannin  is  extracted  from  many 
of  the  species.  The  last-mentioned  produces  gum  like 
that  which  the  druggists  call  Kino.  They  ought  not  to  be 
too  much  fostered,  as  it  would  in  some  degree  retard  their 
growth.  They  are  of  a  very  hardy  nature.  When  large, 
the  plants  will  flower  freely,  and  are  similar  in  flower  to 
Myrtle ;  many  stamina,  proceeding  from  a  hard  nut-like 
capsule.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Euonymus.  One  or  two  of  this  genus  have  been  recently 
introduced  from  China,  and  are  found  to  be  very  orna- 
mental, in  having  beautifully  variegated,  or  rather  margin- 
ated  foliage.  E.  japonicus  aureas  has  golden-edged  leaves, 
and  E.  japonicus  argenteus*  has  silvery-edged  foliage  ;  the 
flowers  have  no  beauty  ;  the  leaves  are  ovate,  acuminate, 
about  one  inch  and  a  half  broad  and  two  inches  and  a  half 
long.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Eupatorium.  There  is  only  one  species  deserving  of 
cultivation  in  the  green-house ;  flowers  syngenesious, 
white,  and  in  large  flattened  panicles  ;  very  sweet-scented. 
The  plant,  when  growing  freely,  in  the  beginning  of  sum- 
mer, should  be  topped,  which  would  make  it  more  bushy; 
if  not,  it  is  apt  to  grow  straggling.  Known  in  our  collec- 
tions as  E.  eiegdns.  (Soil  No.  3.) 

Entdxias,  two  species.  E.  myrtifolia  is  a  most  beau- 
tiful free-flowering  evergreen  shrub;  foliage  small,  but  very 
neat;  flowers  leguminose,  small  and  very  many;  colour 
yellow  and  red ;  grows  freely.  The  young  plants  should 
be  frequently  topped,  or  they  will  grow  naked  and  unsight- 
ly. E.  pitngens,  similar  to  the  other  except  in  foliage. 
They  flower  from  March  to  June,  and  ought  to  have  a 
place  in  every  green-house.  Culture  very  easy.  (Soil 
No.  6.) 

Ficus,  a  few  species,  are  good  plants  for  this  department, 

•  This  plant  is  in  some  collections  as  a  variegated  leaved  ca- 
mellia, and  is  perfectly  hardy  with  us. 


240  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  \_March. 

especially  F.  dastica;  leaves  smooth,  shining  green,  fre- 
quently six  inches  wide  and  twelve  long:  this  is  the  plant 
that  produces  the  gum  elastic,  or  Indian  rubber.  F.  aus- 
trdlis  is  also  an  excellent  evergreen,  with  elliptic  dull  green 
foliage;  very  rusty  underneath;  they  grow  almost  too 
freely.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Fuchsia,  or  Ladies'  Ear-drop.  There  are  an  endless 
variety  of  this  lovely  genus  of  deciduous  small  shrubs  now 
cultivated,  but  there  are  only  a  few,  to  surpass  the  common 
and  celebrated  Coccinea:  true,  many  have  been,  and  are, 
represented  as  far  surpassing  it,  but,  when  brought  to  the 
test,  they  are,  in  some  particular,  found  wanting.  How- 
ever, among  the  many,  F.  globosa,  F.  chauverii,  F.  ex- 
oniensis,  F.  elegans  superba,  Champion  Britannia,  and 
StanweMiana.  These  are  very  superb,  dark  varieties ;  some 
of  the  flowers  are  two  and  a  half  inches  long  and  two  inches 
in  diameter.  The  following  are  light  coloured  varieties, 
indeed  nearly  white,  with  a  purple  or  pink  centre,  form- 
ing a  beautiful  contrast  with  the  deep  crimson  and  purple 
sorts;  F.  rosea  alba,  F.  bicolor,  F.  Queen  Victoria,  F. 
chandlerii,  F.  venus  victrix,  Conspicua  arbor ea,  and  Snow 
Ball.  To  grow  these  in  perfection,  they  require  to  be  very 
frequently  shifted,  as  they  advance  in  growth  till  you  have 
them  in  pots  ten  inches  wide.  Just  now  I  have  plants 
only  six  months  from  the  cutting  that  are  four  feet  high 
and  sixteen  feet  in  circumference,  loaded  with  thousands 
of  flowers,  and  are  the  admiration  of  every  beholder.  They 
require  liberal  supplies  of  water.  F.  fulgens  is  a  distinct 
species;  the  foliage  is  very  different  from  any  other  sort; 
leaves  of  a  well-grown  plant  are  four  inches  wide  and  five 
inches  and  a  half  long :  the  flowers  are  from  two  inches 
and  a  half  to  three  inches  long,  of  a  pink  and  scarlet  colour, 
and  the  plant  is  nearly  tuberous.  We  would  recommend 
our  readers  to  grow  them  from  seeds  when  obtained :  it  is 
well  known  they  will  produce  variety,  and  it  is  even  sup- 
posed by  some  that  the  seeds  of  F.  coccinea  have  produced 
by  hybridizing  nearly  all  the  varieties  of  the  present  day, 
which  exceed  one  hundred  :  most  of  the  flowers  are  a  bright 
scarlet,  the  stamens  are  encircled  with  a  petal  of  bright 
purple,  and  are  of  very  curious  construction;  they  bear  a 
dark  purple  berry,  and  are  of  the  easiest  cultivation  ;  but 
during  summer  the  pots  must,  be  carefully  kept  from  the 


March.'}  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  241 

sun,  although  the  plants  will  not  be  affected  by  it.  If  the 
plants  are  young  and  growing  freely,  we  find  that  a  deluge 
of  rain,  and  afterward  a  hot  day,  is  their  instant  death. 
Some  of  them  do  tolerably  well  when  planted  in  the  flower- 
garden  early  in  May.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Fabidna,  a  genus  of  new  plants  that  will  prove  entirely 
hardy  in  the  southern  states;  they  are  upright  growing 
shrubs,  with  delicate  foliage.  F.  imbricata  is  the  most 
popular,  producing  a  profusion  of  white  tubular  flowers 
about  an  inch  long,  of  easy  culture  in  soil  No.  12. 

Gardoqula  Hookeri,  a  very  pretty  dwarf  plant — native 
of  the  Floridas:  it  blooms  profusely  Yrom  June  to  October; 
flowers  are  about  one  inch  and  a  half  long,  of  a  tubular 
labiate  form,  of  a  bright  orange  colour ;  it  is  easy  of  culture 
in  soil  No.  1 . 

Gelsem'nim  nitidum,  Carolina  jasmine,  a  most  beautiful 
climbing  evergreen,  flowering  shrub.  In  the  months  of 
April  and  May  it  produces  many  large  yellow  trumpet- 
like  blossoms  of  delicious  fragrance.  If  much  encouraged 
in  growth,  it  will  not  flower  so  freely.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Genista:  a  few  of  these  are  very  pretty  free-flowering 
shrubs.  G.  ramosus,  G.  canariensis,  G.  tricuspiddta,  G. 
cuspidosa,  and  G.  wmbellata,  are  the  finest  green-house  spe- 
cies. All  of  them  have  yellow  leguminose  flowers  in  great 
abundance;  leaves  small,  lanceolate.  (Soil  No.  1.) 

Gnaphalium,  everlasting.  There  are  above  ten  species, 
most  of  them  very  splendid,  persistent  flowers.  G.  eximia 
has  briliant  red  flowers.  G.  spiralis,  G.  speciosissima,  G. 
fruticans,  G.  oriantalum,  and  G.  imbricatum,  are  all  very 
fine  ;  pots  must  be  well  drained.  (Soil  No.  8.) 

Gtiidias,  about  ten  species  of  pretty  green-house  shrubs. 
G.  simplex,  G.  sericca,  G.  imberbis,  and  G.  pinifolia, 
flower  the  most  freely  ;  flowers  straw  colour,  tubular,  and 
corymbose.  G.  simplex  is  sweet-scented,  leaves  small ; 
the  pots  must  be  well  drained,  and  care  taken  that  they  do 
not  get  either  too  wet  or  too  dry,  for  the  roots  are  very  deli- 
cate. The  plants  must  be  kept  near  the  glass,  or  they  will 
be  drawn  weak.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Gorteria  personata  is  the  only  species  that  belongs  to 

this  genus,  and  is  an  annual.     There  are  several  plants  in 

our  collections  known  as   Gorterias,  but  which  properly 

are  Gazania,  of  which  there  are  five  species.    G.  ringcns, 

21 


242  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [March. 

when  the  flowers  are  fully  expanded,  (which  will  only  be 
while  exposed  to  the  sun,  closing  at  night  and  opening 
again  with  the  influence  of  the  sun's  rays,)  is  a  great 
beauty.  The  rays  of  the  flowers  are  bright  orange,  and 
the  centre  dark  purple.  G.  pavonia  has  handsome  foli- 
age ;  flower  similar  to  G.  rlngens,  except  the  centre  of 
the  flower  being  spotted,  and  is  thought  to  be  the  finest, 
but  does  not  flower  so  freely.  G.  heterophylla  is  of  the 
same  character,  except  the  foliage,  which  is  variable,  the 
colour  orange  and  vermilion.  They  are  dwarf-growing 
plants,  and  during  the  months  of  July,  August,  and  Sep- 
tember, are  liable  to  damp  off'  at  the  surface  of  the  earth, 
from  the  action  of  heat  and  too  much  water.  Pots  must  be 
well  drained,  and  the  plants  kept  partially  in  the  shade. 
Their  flowers  are  syngenesious,  and  about  two  inches  in 
diameter.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Grevilleas,  about  thirty  species.  A  few  of  them  very 
handsome  in  flower  and  foliage,  among  which  are  G.  puni- 
cea  ;  G.  acanthifolia,  (beautiful  foliage  ;)  G.  concinna,  very 
pretty  straw  and  rose-coloured  flowers ;  G.  juniperlna, 
green  and  straw-coloured ;  G.  linearis,  white  flowers.  The 
flowers  of  the  whole  are  curious,  though  not  very  attrac- 
tive. Some  carry  their  flowers  in  racemose  spikes,  others 
on  flowering  branches,  which  are  recurved ;  the  petals  are 
very  small  and  rugged;  the  stile  longer  than  the  append- 
age. They  grow  freely,  flower  and  ripen  seeds ;  all  ever- 
green dwarf  shrubs.  (Soil  No.  1.) 

Habrdnthus,  about  ten  species  of  small  South  American 
bulbs,  nearly  allied  to  Amaryllis.  H.  jlndersonii,  H. 
versicolor,  H.  Candida,  and  H.  robusta,  are  fine  ;  they  are 
in  colour  yellow,  blue,  white,  and  lilac.  We  have  very 
little  doubt  but  these  bulbs  will  do  to  plant  out  in  the  garden 
in  April,  and  be  lifted  in  October.  Keep  them  from  frost. 
Thus  treated,  they  are  very  desirable.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Hdychrysums,  above  forty  species,  chiefly  belonging  to 
the  green-house,  all  everlasting  flowers.  H.  grandiflbrum, 
H.  arboreum,  H.  fra  grans,  H.  adoratlssimum,  H.  friiti- 
cans,  and  H.  fulgidum,  are  all  very  esteemed  species, 
mostly  with  soft  downy  foliage.  The  pots  should  be  well 
drained,  and  the  plants  kept  in  an  airy  situation,  as  they 
suffer  from  the  least  damp.  If  the  flowers  are  cut  off  be- 
fore they  fade,  they  will  retain  for  many  years  all  the 


March.~\  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  243 

splendour  of  their  beauty ;  but  if  allowed  to  decay  on  the 
plant,  they  will  soon  become  musty,  and  all  their  colour 
fade.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Hibbertias,  about  ten  species.  Three  of  them  are  known 
to  be  fine  climbing  evergreen  shrubs,  namely,  H.  glossu- 
larisefolia;  H.  dentata;  H.  volubilis,  if  closely  approached, 
has  a  disagreeable  smell ;  H.  fasciculata,  II.  saligna,  and 
ff.  pedunculata,  are  evergreen  shrubs  ;  they  have  pure 
yellow  flowers  of  five  petals,  blooming  from  May  to  Sep- 
tember. (Soil  No.  12.) 

Hoveas,  about  eight  species,  pretty  plants  of  New  South 
Wales,  blue  pea-flowering  evergreen  shrubs  ;  the  finest  are 
H.  panosa,  H.  atropurpurea,  H.  linearis,  H.  rosmarinifo- 
lia,  H.  longifolia,  and  H.  Celsii,  which  is  the  most  superb, 
and  flowers  in  abundance.  They  grow  and  flower  freely ; 
the  pots  should  be  drained.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Hypericums.  St.  John's  wort,  about  twenty  species.  A 
few  of  them  are  very  showy,  and,  with  few  exceptions, 
have  yellow  flowers.  H.  monogynum,  H.  balearicum,  H. 
floribundum,  H.  canariense,  H.  aegyptiacum,  and  H.  cochin- 
chinense,  which  has  scarlet  flowers,  are  among  the  best, 
and  all  of  them  flower  freely  ;  five  petals,  filaments  many  in 
three  or  five  parcels.  They  are  all  of  very  easy  cultiva- 
tion, and  bloom  generally  from  April  to  September.  (Soil 
No.  11.) 

Hydrangea  hortensis  is  a  well-known  plant,  and  much 
esteemed  for  its  great  profusion  of  very  elegant,  though 
monstrous,  flowers.  They  are  naturally  of  a  pink  colour, 
but  under  certain  circumstances  of  culture  they  become 
blue.  If  grown  in  brown  loam  with  a  little  sand,  they  will 
preserve  their  original  colour;  but  if  grown  in  swamp  earth 
with  a  little  mould  of  decayed  leaves,  they  will  become 
blue.*  The  swamp  earth  and  vegetable  mould  being  more 
combined  with  aluminous  salt  than  brown  loam,  is  the 
cause  of  the  change :  and,  when  first  found  out,  (which  was 
merely  by  chance,)  was  thought  a  great  wonder.  It  must 
have  a  very  plentiful  supply  of  water  when  in  flower, 
which  is  produced  on  the  shoots  of  the  previous  year. 

*  Mix  the  iron  sparks,  from  the  blacksmith's  shop,  with  any 
kind  of  soil,  and  they  will  be  a  beautiful  blue.  One  and  a  half 
quarts  to  a  bushel  will  do. 


244  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. 

They  will  neither  grow  nor  flower  well  if  they  are  not 
kept  constantly  in  the  shade.  When  kept  in  the  sun,  the 
foliage  is  ver-y  brown;  and  by  being  neglected  in  watering, 
we  have  seen  the  flowers  completely  scourged.  H.  japo- 
nica,  a  new  variety  with  pink  flowers,  a  little  fragrant. 
Being  tolerably  hardy,  when  the  winters  are  mild,  by  a 
little  protection  in  the  open  air,  they  will  flower  profusely ; 
the  flowers  will  be  very  large,  and  in  bloom  from  June  to 
October.  They  are  deciduous,  soft-wooded  shrubs. 

Ilex,  Holly,  of  /.  aquifolium.  There  are  above  one 
hundred  of  them  in  cultivation  in  Europe,  differing  in  vari- 
egation, margin,  shape,  and  size  of  the  leaves ;  some  are 
only  prickly  on  the  margin  of  the  foliage,  others  prickly 
over  all  the  surface.  In  Europe  they  are  all  hardy,  but 
with  us  few  or  none  of  the  varieties  are  so.  If  they  be- 
come acclimated,  they  will  be  a  great  ornament  to  our 
gardens,  being  all  low  evergreen  shrubs.  The  most  com- 
mon and  conspicuous  varieties  are  the  hedge-hog,  striped 
hedge-hog,  white  edged,  gold  edged,  and  painted;  the 
flowers  are  white  and  small,  berries  yellow  or  red  ;  they  do 
not  agree  with  exposure  to  the  sun.  J.  Cassine  and  J. 
vomitoria  have  very  bitter  leaves,  and,  though  natives  of 
Carolina,  we  have  to  give  them  the  protection  of  a  green- 
house. It  is  said  that  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  the 
Indians  make  a  strong  decoction  of  the  leaves,  which  makes 
them  vomit  freely,  and  after  drinking  and  vomiting  for  a 
few  days,  they  consider  themselves  sufficiently  purified. 
(Soil  No.  15.) 

Illiciums,  Anise-seed  tree,  three  species.  I.Jloridanum 
has  very  sweet-scented,  double  purple  flowers,  and  the 
plant  grows  freely  and  systematically  if  properly  treated, 
and  deserves  particular  attention.  /.  parviflbrum  has  small 
yellow  flowers  ;  /.  anisatum  is  so  very  like  /.  parviflorum 
in  every  respect,  as  to  make  us  conclude  they  are  the 
same,  were  7.  anisatum  not  a  native  of  China,  and  the 
other  two  natives  of  Florida.  When  the  leaves  and  cap- 
sules of  either  of  them  are  rubbed,  they  have  a  very  strong 
smell  of  anise ;  they  grow  very  .freely.  (Soil  No.  1.) 

Indigofera;  Indigo  tree,  about  twenty  species,  belong 
to  the  green-house,  and  are  chiefly  pretty  free-flowering 
shrubs.  /.  denudata,  I.  amsena,  I.  austrdlis,  I.  angiddta, 
L  candicans,  and  7.  filifblia,  are  very  fine  ;  flowers  papi- 


March."]  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  245 

lionaceous,  in  long  panicles;  colour  various,  red,  blue,  yel- 
low, and  pink.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Jacksonias,  a  genus  consisting  of  five  species.  The 
foliage  is  varied,  and  all  natives  of  New  South  Wales.  J. 
scoparia,  J.  horrida,  and  J.  reliculata,  are  the  finest;  the 
small  flowers  come  out  of  the  young  shoots,  are  yellow  and 
papilionaceous ;  the  pots  should  be  well  drained.  (Soil 
No.  6.) 

Jambosa  vulgdris,  or  Eugenia  jdmbos,  is  a  splendid 
evergreen  tree,  producing  a  fruit  of  an  agreeable  odour  and 
called  rose  apple.  J.  australis  has  a  very  neat  habit,  and 
produces  purple  fruit ;  they  are  of  the  earliest  culture  in 
soil  No.  12. 

Jasminum,  Jasmine.  A  few  species  of  this  genus  are 
celebrated  either  for  the  green-house  or  rooms.  J.  odo- 
ratissimumi  Azorian,  has  very  sweet-scented  yellow  flow- 
ers, blooming  from  April  to  November.  J.  revolulum  is 
the  earliest  flowering  one,  and  of  the  same  colour  ;  it  is  apt 
to  grow  straggling,  and  should  be  close  pruned  as  soon  as 
done  blooming,  which  will  be  in  May.  J.  pubigemm  is 
also  yellow.  J.  grandiflorum  is  frequently  called  Catalo- 
nian,  and  should  be  pruned  early  in  spring  to  make  it 
bloom  well,  especially  old  plants.  J.  multifldrum,  profuse 
flowering  white.  These  plants  are  all  perfectly  hardy  in 
the  southern  states.  J.  officinale  is  a  hardy  climbing  plant 
for  arbours,  walls,  &c.  There  are  several  varieties  of  it. 
(Soil  No.  3.) 

Justicias.  Only  a  few  of  the'se  belong  to  the  green- 
house, and  are  very  simple-looking  flowers.  (The  most 
beautiful  of  them  belong  to  the  hot-house.)  J.  nigricans, 
small  striped  flower;  «/.  orchioides  and  J.  Jtdhdtoda,  Mala- 
nut,  are  the  only  ones  that  are  worth  observation,  and  are 
very  easily  cultivated  in  any  soil. 

jkennedias,  about  twelve  species,  all  beautiful  evergreen 
climbers,  of  the  easiest  culture,  and  flower  abundantly.  K. 
monophylla,  blue-flowered,  and  K.  rubicunda,  crimson- 
flowered,  are  common  in  our  collections.  K.  prostrata, 
one-flowered  scarlet,  and  K.  coccinea,  many-flowered  scar- 
let, are  very  pretty.  K.  Comptonidna  has  splendid  purple 
flowers,  K.  nigricans,  black  flowers,  and  K.  splendens  and 
K.  marryatta  are  thought  the  most  superb.  They  have 
bright  crimson  flowers,  and  are  yet  rare  in  our  collections. 
21* 


246  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  \_March. 

The  pots  should  be  well  drained ;  flowers  are  either  in  race- 
mose spikes,  or  solitary,  which  is  rather  too  much  distinc- 
tion for  the  same  genus.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Lambertias,  four  species  of  very  fine  plants,  natives  of 
New  Holland.  L.  formosa  is  the  finest  of  the  genus  that 
we  have  seen ;  flowers  large  and  of  a  splendid  rose  colour. 
L.  echinata  is  said  to  he  finer,  but  has  not  flowered  in 
cultivation.  L.  uniflora  has  single  red  flowers,  and  L. 
inermis  orange-coloured.  They  are  rare  plants  in  the 
.collections  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic.  Drain  the  pots 
well;  the  foliage  is  narrow,  and  of  a  hard  dry  nature. 
(Soil  No.  1.) 

Lasiopetalums,  only  two  species.  There  were  a  few 
more,  but  they  are  now  Thomasias,  plants  ot  no  merit 
whatever  in  regard  to  flower ;  foliage  three-lobed,  small, 
rough,  and  rusty-like.  Thomdsia  solandcea  and  T.  quer- 
cifolia  are  the  best  species ;  foliage  of  the  former  is  large, 
cordate,  and  deeply  indented ;  they  are  all  of  the  easiest 
culture.  (Soil  No.  1.) 

Lauras.  A  few  species  are  green-house  plants.  This 
genus  has  been  divided  to  Cinnambmum;  still  there  are  a 
few  celebrated  plants  in  the  original.  L.  nobilis,  sweet 
bay,  though  hardy,  is  kept  under  protection.  It  will  bear 
the  winter  with  a  little  straw  covering ;  notwithstanding, 
there  should  be  a  plant  kept  in  the  house  in  case  of  acci- 
dent by  frost  or  otherwise ;  there  is  a  variegated  variety  of 
it.  L.  indica,  royal  bay,  L.  fcetens,  L.  aggregdta,  and 
L.  glduca,  are  favourite's.  There  is  a  species  known  in 
our  collections  as  L.  scdbra.  The  Camphor  tree,  known 
as  L.  camphora,  is  Cinnamomum  camphora;  the  wood, 
leaves,  and  roots  of  this  tree  have  a  very  strong  odour  of 
camphor.  It  is  obtained  by  distillation  from  the  roots  and 
small  branches,  which  are  cut  into  chips,  and  put  into  a 
net  suspended  within  an  iron  pot,  the  bottom  of  which  is 
covered  with  water,  having  an  earthen  head  fitted  in  it ; 
heat  is  then  applied,  and  the  steam  of  the  boiling  water 
acting  upon  the  contents  of  the  net,  elevates  the  camphor 
into  the  capital,  where  it  concretes  on  the  straws,  with 
which  this  part  of  the  apparatus  is  lined.  They  are  all 
fine  evergreens,  (which  the  name  denotes,)  and  easily  cul- 
tivated. (Soil  No.  10.) 

Lavdndulas,  Lavender.     About  seven  species  belong  to 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE— -REPOTTING.  247 

the  green-house,  and  a  few  of  them  very  pretty  soft-wood- 
ed, half  shrubby  plants,  and,  if  touched,  are  highly  scented. 
L.  dentuta  has  narrow  serrated  foliage,  very  neat;  L.for- 
mosa  and  L.  pinnata  are  desirable  ;  blue  flowers  on  a  long 
spike ;  should  be  kept  near  to  the  glass :  they  are  of  the 
easiest  culture.  (Soil  No.  7.) 

Lechenaiiltia ;  four  species  of  pretty  dwarf  blooming 
plants.  L.formosa  is  almost  always  a  picture  with  its 
bright  scarlet  flowers  and  heath-like  foliage,  and  ought  to 
be  in  every  collection;  L.  biloba  and  L.  Drummondii  are 
both  blue,  though  very  rarely  seen  in  bloom ;  fine  plants 
two  years  old,  with  us  have  not  yet  shown  a  flower ;  they 
must  have  an  airy  situation  and  near  the  front  glass  ;  other- 
wise they  will  be  weak  and  spindling.  (Soil  No.  19.) 

Leonotis,  Lion's-ear,  four  species.  They  have  very  fine 
scarlet  tubular  flowers,  orifice-toothed.  They  come  out  in 
large  whorls,  and  look  elegant;  but  neither  plant  nor  foli- 
age has  an  agreeable  appearance.  They  are  of  the  easiest 
culture.  L.  intermedia  and  L.  Leonurus  are  the  best  flow- 
ering species.  (Soil  No.  7.) 

Leptospermums,  about  thirty  species,  all  pretty  New 
Holland  evergreen  dwarf  shrubs,  with  small  white  flowers. 
L.  baccatum,  L.  pendulum,  L.  juniperinum,  L.  ovdtum, 
Jj.  stellatum,  L.  grandiflorum,  and  L.  scoparium,  are  the 
best  of  the  species.  The  latter  was  used  as  tea  by  the 
crew  of  Captain  Cook's  ship.  It  is  an  agreeeble  bitter, 
with  a  pleasant  flavour  when  fresh.  When  young  plants 
are  growing,  they  ought  to  be  frequently  topped  to  make 
them  bushy,  and  kept  in  an  airy  situation,  or  they  will  be 
drawn  and  unsightly.  They  are  of  very  easy  culture. 
(Soil  No.  1.) 

Leucadendrons,  Silver  tree,  above  forty  species,  all  na- 
tives of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  They  are  evergreens, 
with  handsome  silvery-like  foliage.  L.  argenteuni  (once 
Protas  argentea)  is  a  great  beauty ;  foliage  white,  lanceo- 
late and  silky.  It  is  a  plant  that  has  been  long  in  cultiva- 
tion, greatly  admired,  and  much  sought  for,  and  is  the 
finest  of  the  genus.  L.  squarrdsum,  L.  stellatum,  (once 
Protea  stellaris,}  L.  tortum,  L.  serviceum,  L.  margina- 
tum,  and  L.  plumosum,  (once  P.  parviftora,}  are  all  fine 
species.  The  pots  must  be  well  drained  and  the  plants 


248  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. 

never  over-watered.  They  are  very  desirable  in  collections 
for  their  beauty  of  foliage.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Leucospermums,  about  eighteen  species  of  Proteacous 
plants,  chiefly  low  growing,  and  are  mostly  downy  or  hairy; 
flowers  yellow,  in  terminal  heads.  L.formosum,  L.  gran- 
diflorum,  L.  tomentosum,  and  L.  candicans,  rose-scented. 
These  are  fine  species.  For  treatment,  see  Proteas.  (Soil 
No.  9.) 

Linums,  flax,  two  or  three  species  are  very  fine,  and 
flower  freely.  L.  trigynum  has  large  yellow  flowers  in 
clusters,  and  L.  ascyrifolium,  whose  flowers  are  large, 
blue  and  white,  and  in  long  spikes.  They  bloom  in  Feb- 
ruary ;  the  shape  of  them  is  very  like  the  flower  vulgarly 
called  Morning-glory.  (Soil  No.  4.) 

Liparias,  about  five  species,  much  esteemed  for  their 
beauty  of  foliage;  leaves  ovate,  lanceolate,  downy  or  wool- 
ly; flowers  yellow,  leguminose  and  capitate.  L.  sphserica, 
L.  tomentosa,  L.  villosa  and  L.  sericea,  are  the  finest.  L. 
vistita  and  L.  villosa  are  the  same,  although  put  in  many 
catalogues  as  different  species.  None  of  them  ought  to  be 
much  watered  over  the  foliage,  as  it  adheres  to  the  down, 
and  causes  the  young  shoots  to  damp  off'.  Drain  the  pots 
well,  and  keep  the  plants  in  an  airy  situation.  (Soil 
No.  6.) 

Lobelias.  Several  of  them,  when  well  treated,  form 
pretty  flowering  plants  ;  they  are  principally  herbaceous. 
The  genus  consists  of  about  eighty  species;  seventy  of 
them  are  exotics;  many  of  them  natives  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  with  little  flowers  of  brilliant  colours.  L.  cce- 
rulea,  L,  Thunbergii,  L.  corymbosa,  L.  pyramiddlis,  Z-. 
erines,  and  L.  illicifolia,  are  very  fine  species,  of  weak 
growth,  but  flower  freely.  (Soil  No.  4.) 

fjOnicerajaponica.  There  is  a  plant  in  our  collections 
known  by  that  name,  which  is  now  Nintooa  longiflora; 
flowers  of  a  straw  colour,  but  come  out  white.  It  has  been 
known  to  withstand  the  winter,  but  does  not  flower,  and  is 
frequently  killed  entirely.  (Soil  No.  3.) 

Lophospermum  scdndens.  This  is  a  magnificent  climb- 
ing soft-wooded  shrub,  with  rosy  purple,  campanulate  flow- 
ers, which  are  produced  from  the  axils  on  the  young  wood; 
they  bloom  from  May  to  September ;  leaves  large,  cordate, 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  249 

and  tomentose;  grows  rapidly,  and  flowers  abundantly. 
(Soil  No.  3.) 

Lychnis  corondta  is  an  esteemed  Chinese  plant;  flowers 
in  abundance,  pentapetalous,  large,  and  a  little  indented  at 
the  edges ;  colour  a  red-like  orange  ;  flowers  terminal  and 
axillary.  A  good  method  of  treatment  is  to  divide  the 
roots,  and  plant  some  of  them  in  the  garden ;  they  will 
flower  well,  and  could  be  lifted  in  the  fall,  and  put  under 
protection.  If  not  done  so,  plant  them  in  four-inch  pots, 
and  repot  them  into  those  of  six-inch  in  May.  Do  not  ex- 
pose them  while  in  flower  to  the  mid-day  sun,  for  it  will 
deteriorate  the  fine  orange  colour.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Lysinemas,  four  species,  closely  allied  to  Epdcris.  In 
every  respect  treatment  the  same.  L.  pentapitalum,  L. 
conspicum  and  L.  roseum,  are  the  best ;  the  flowers  of  the 
former  two  are  white.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Magnolias.  There  are  four  species  that  require  the  pro- 
tection of  our  green-houses;  all  the  others  are  hardy.  M. 
fuscata  and  M.  annonaefolia  are  very  similar  in  foliage  and 
flower  :  the  young  branches  and  leaves  of  M.fuscdta  are 
covered  with  a  brown,  rusty-like  down ;  the  other  by  some 
is  considered  merely  a  variety;  flowers  small,  brown,  and 
very  sweet-scented.  M.  pumila  is  very  dwarf-growing; 
leaves  large  and  netted ;  flowers  semi-double,  white,  pend- 
ent, and  exceedingly  fragrant.  They  are  natives  of  China. 
We  have  several  others  from  the  east,  but  being  deciduous 
are  perfectly  hardy.  M.  odoratissima,  now  Talduma  Con- 
dolii,  is  a  native  of  the  Island  of  Java,  and  considered 
odoriferous,  but  it  is  very  rare  even  in  Europe  ;  said  to  have 
a  straw-coloured  flower.  (Soil  No.  9.) 

Manettia;  a  genus  of  pretty  climbing  plants  producing  a 
profusion  of  scarlet  flowers,  especially  C.  gldbra,  (of  Don,) 
or  cordifolia,  (of  Paxton,)  which  is  a  complete  mass  of 
flowers  from  July  to  October,  and  is  a  lovely  object  when 
turned  into  the  borders  during  summer.  M.  bicolor,  red 
and  yellow,  blooms  throughout  the  winter,  and  is  a  charm- 
ing climber  in  that  dull  period  of  flowers ;  they  are  of  the 
easiest  culture  in  soil  No.  17. 

Melafeucas,  above  thirty  species,  and  a  beautiful  genus 
of  New  Holland  plants,  of  easy  culture ;  flowers  come  out 
of  the  wood-like  fringes.  M.  elliptica,  M.fulgens,  scarlet, 
M.  decussdta,  M.  hypericifolia,  M.  squarrosa,  M.  linari- 


250  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [March. 

folia,  M.  incana,  M.  tetragonia,  M.  thymifofia,  are  all 
very  fine  species,  and  flower  freely  if  they  have  been  grown 
from  cuttings  ;  the  singularity  of  flower  and  diversity  of 
foliage  make  them  generally  admired.  (Soil  No.  1 .) 

Melastoma  nepalensis  is  a  good  green-house  species, 
flowering  freely  during  winter,  of  a  pale  blush  colour,  and 
is  of  the  easiest  culture.  As  soon  as  done  blooming,  the 
plant  should  be  well  cut  in  to  keep  it  into  shape.  (Soil 
No.  1.) 

Menziesia  is  a  family  of  pretty  dwarf  British  plants, 
very  similar  to  the  Erica  in  flower,  and  requiring  the  same 
mode  of  treatment:  they  bloom  in  July  and  August.  (Soil 
No.  6.) 

Mespilus.     See  JEryabotrya. 

Metroslderos,  about  fifteen  species.  Many  have  been 
added  to  Callistemon.  M.flbvida,  M.  umbellcita,  and  M. 
angustifolia,  C.  salignum,  C.  lanceoldtum,  C.  semperflo- 
rens,  C.  glaiicum,  once  M.  speciosa,  and  C.  formosum  ; 
these  are  all  beautiful  plants,  with  scarlet  flowers.  Other 
two  beautiful  species  with  white  flowers  have  been  given 
to  rfngophora.  Jl.  cordifolia,  once  M.  hispida,  and  Jl. 
lanceolata,  once  M.  costata  ;  these  genera  are  very  easily 
distinguished  from  any  other  Australasian  shrubs,  by  the 
peculiar  character  of  having  both  sides  of  the  leaves  alike. 
The  flowers  consist  of  stamens,  stiles,  and  anthers,  coming 
in  hundreds  out  of  the  young  wood  for  the  length  of  three 
or  four  inches,  forming  a  dense  cone  crowned  with  a  small 
twig,  hence  frequently  called  "  bottle  brush  plant;"  leaving 
capsules  in  the  wood,  which  will  keep  their  seeds  perfect 
for  a  great  number  of  years.  They  grow  freely,  and  the 
pots  should  be  well  drained.  (Soil  No.  1.) 

Afyrsines,  Cape  Myrtle,  dwarf  cape  evergreen  shrubs 
covered  with  small  flowers  from  March  to  May.  M.  retusa 
has  purple  flowers ;  -M.  rotundifolia,  flowers  white  and 
purple.  They  will  grow  in  any  situation,  and  are  of  easy 
culture.  (Soil  No.  1.) 

Myrtus,  Myrtle,  is  a  well-known  and  popular  shrub, 
especially  the  common  varieties,  and  was  a  great  favourite 
(even  to  adoration)  among  the  ancients.  It  was  the  mark 
of  authority  for  Athenian  rulers,  and  is  among  the  moderns 
an  emblem  of  pre-eminence.  They  are  elegant  evergreen 
shrubs  with  an  agreeable  odour.  M.  commiinis  multiplex, 


March."]  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  251 

double  flowering,  is  a  very  neat  shrub,  and  flowers  abun- 
dantly. M.  commiinis,  leucocdrpa,  white-fruited  myrtle. 
M.  itdlica  variegdta,  striped  leaved ;  M.  itdlica  maculdta, 
blotch  leaved,  are  very  fine  shrubs ;  and  M.  tomentosa, 
Chinese  myrtle,  is  a  magnificent  erect  growing  shrub,  with 
a  white  down  over  the  foliage ;  the  flowers  are  the  largest 
of  the  genus.  When  they  first  expand  they  are  purple, 
and  afterward  change  to  white,  so  that  there  are  beautiful 
flowers  of  several  shades  of  colour  on  the  plant.  We  have 
not  the  smallest  doubt  but  this  species  will  become,  in 
many  instances,  as  plentiful  as  the  common  myrtle.  It  is 
more  easily  grown,  but  cannot  s:and  much  exposure  to  the 
sun  in  summer.  M.  tenuifolia  is  a  very  fine  plant,  and  a 
native  of  New  South  Wales.  Myrtles  in  general  should 
be  sprinkled  with  water  in  the  evening,  to  keep  off  the  red 
spider.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Nandlna  domestica,  the  only  species,  and  a  popular 
shrub  in  the  gardens  of  Japan,  where  it  is  called  Nandin. 
It  has  supra-decompound  leaves,  with  entire  lanceolate 
leaflets,  a  kind  of  foliage  that  is  very  rare  ;  the  flowers  are 
small  whitish  green,  in  panicles,  succeeded  by  berries  of 
the  size  of  a  pea;  drain  the  pots  well.  (Soil  No.  1.) 

Nerium  (Oleander)  is  a  genus  of  beautiful  erect  grow- 
ing evergreen  shrubs,  of  the  easiest  culture,  and  abundant 
in  flower.  N.  oleander  is  the  common  rose-coloured  single 
flowering  species,  from  which  many  varieties  have  origi- 
nated. At  present  the  most  popular  is  N.  oleander  splen- 
dens,  which  has  a  double  rose-coloured  flower,  N.  o.  stridta, 
fl.  JD/.,  has  double  striped  flowers.  N.  meter ophy Hum  has 
very  large  double  pink  flowers.  N.  o.  raginot,  or  tangle, 
has  deep  crimson  flowers  striped  with  white,  though  they 
are  frequently  of  a  pink  colour.  N.  o.  purpiirea,  dark  red. 
There  is  one  that  has  got  into  our  collections  as  double 
white,  which  is  only  semi-double.  N.  oleander  elegan- 
tissimum,  a  most  beautiful  plant,  with  deep  silver-edged 
foliage  ;  and  the  young  wood  is  striped  white  and  green. 
There  are  likewise  single  yellow,  single  white,  and  single 
blotched  varieties  of  N.  oleander.  They  are  subject  to  the 
small  white  scaly  insect,  and  should  be  frequently  washed, 
as  has  been  directed,  to  keep  it  off.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Oleas,  Olive,  about  twelve  species  and  varieties.  O. 
Europsea  longifolia  is  the  species  that  is  cultivated  to  such 


252  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. 

an  extent  in  the  south  of  France,  and  Italy.  0.  Europsea 
latifolla  is  chiefly  cultivated  in  Spain.  The  fruit  is  larger 
than  that  of  Italy,  but  the  oil  is  not  so  pleasant,  which  is 
obtained  by  crushing  the  fruit  to  a  paste,  and  pressing  it 
through  a  woollen  bag,  adding  hot  water  as  long  as  any 
oil  is  yielded.  The  oil  is  then  skimmed  off"  the  water,  and 
put  into  barrels,  bottles,  &c.,  for  use.  The  tree  seldom 
exceeds  thirty  feet,  and  is  a  branchy,  glaucous  evergreen, 
and  is  said  to  be  of  great  longevity.  Some  plantations  at 
Turin,  in  Italy,  are  supposed  to  have  existed  from  the  time 
of  Pliny.  It  frequently  flowers  in  our  collections,  but  sel- 
dom carries  fruit ;  flowers  white,  in  small  racemose  axil- 
lary spikes.  O.  capensis  has  thick  large  oblong  foliage ; 
flowers  white,  in  large  terminal  panicles.  O.  verrucusa, 
foliage  flat,  lanceolate,  and  white  beneath,  branches  curi- 
ously warted.  O.fragrdns  blooms  in  winter;  foliage  and 
blossoms  are  both  highly  odoriferous  ;  the  plant  is  much 
esteemed  in  China,  and  is  said  to  be  used  to  adulterate  and 
flavour  teas.  Leaves  are  elliptic,  lanceolate,  and  a  little 
serrated  ;  flowers  white  in  lateral  bunches.  It  is  subject  to 
the  small,  white  scaly  insect,  and  ought  to  be  carefully 
kept  from  them  by  washing.  O.  roaea  has  pink  flowers. 
O.  paniculata  is  also  a  fine  species.  They  are  all  very 
easily  cultivated.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Oxylobiums,  seven  species,  plants  very  similar  to  Cal- 
listachys,  with  ovate,  cordate,  light-coloured,  pubescent 
foliage,  with  papilionaceous  flowers.  O.  obtusifdlium  has 
scarlet  flowers;  O.  retusum,  orange  flowers ;  and  O.  ellip- 
ticum,  yellow  flowers.  They  grow  freely,  and  should  be 
well  drained  ;  flower  from  May  to  August.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Passiflora;  a  celebrated  genus  of  climbing  plants,  called 
in  common  "Passion  Vine."  Those  belonging  to  the 
green-house  flower  during  summer.  Several  of  them  are 
both  beautiful  and  profuse  in  bloom,  especially  P.  Kermo- 
sine,  P.  princeps,  P.  hybrlda,  P.  fragrans,  and  are  very 
distinct  species;  the  former  is  of  a  beautiful  rosy  crimson 
colour.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Pelargoniums,  Stork's  Bill.  This  genus,  so  universally 
known  among  us  as  Geranium,  from  which  it  was  sepa- 
rated many  years  ago,  is  a  family  of  great  extent  and  variety 
for  which  we  are  principally  indebted  to  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  There  are  many  hundred  species,  with  upwards 


March."]  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTIVG.  253 

of  eight  hundred  beautiful  and  well-marked  varieties, 
which  have  been  obtained  from  seed.  They  are  of  every 
character,  colour,  and  shade,  of  the  most  vivid  description. 
The  easy  cultivation  of  the  Pelargonium  tribe,  or  Gera- 
niums, as  they  are  commonly  called,  has  rendered  them 
very  popular ;  also  the  agreeableness  of  scent  and  fragrance, 
of  which  many  of  them  are  possessed,  makes  them  favour- 
ites. 

Their  flowering  season  is  also  of  considerable  duration, 
especially  the  bright  scarlet  and  crimson  varieties,  which 
bloom  from  March  till  August,  rendering  them  quite  indis- 
pensable in  collections.  Some  growers  complain  of  their 
straggling  habits  ;  but  it  is  only  those  that  do  not  know  how 
to  prune  them  :  even  some  of  the  choice  kinds  of  the  pre- 
sent day  could  not  be  made  to  grow  irregularly — such  as 
Perfection,  King,  Witch,  Nymph,  Sapphire,  and  others ; 
indeed,  within  these  few  years,  the  habits  and  beauties  of 
the  plant  are  improved  a  hundred-fold,  and  those  who  are 
only  acquainted  with  the  old  sorts  would  be  transported 
with  a  view  of  the  dazzling  and  beauteous  colony  of  the 
new  kinds  that  have  been  procured  by  hybridizing  those 
of  good  habit  and  character. 

The  best  method  to  adopt  in  impregnating  these  is,  to 
choose  the  female,  one  that  has  large  flowers,  of  easy  cul- 
tivation, and  as  nearly  allied  in  character  and  other  habits 
as  possible.  When  a  flower  of  the  intended  female  is  newly 
expanded,  take  a  pair  of  very  fine-pointed  scissors,  and  cut 
off  the  anthers  before  the  pollen  expands  ;  then,  as  soon  as 
the  summit  of  the  stile  divides,  apply  the  pollen  taken 
from  the  anthers  of  the  intended  male  plant  on  a  very  fine 
camel  hair-pencil,  or  cut  out  the  stigma  entirely,  and  place 
the  anther  on  the  summit  of  the  stile,  which,  if  correctly 
done,  will  have  the  desired  effect.  As  soon  as  the  seed  is 
ripe,  sow  it  in  light  sandy  soil;  and  when  it  has  come  up, 
take  care  not  to  over-water  the  soil,  which  would  cause 
them  to  damp  off.  When  they  are  about  one  inch  high, 
put  them  into  small  pots,  and  treat  as  the  other  varieties. 
Have  them  all  distinctly  marked  until  they  flower,  which 
will  be  in  the  second  year  from  the  time  of  sowing. 

The  tuberous  and  fleshy  stemmed  species  are  very  inte- 
resting to  the  discriminatiner  inquirer.  Their  habit  and 
22 


254  GREEN-HOUSE— REPOTTING.  \_MttrcJl. 

constitution  are  so  peculiar,  that  we  have  frequently  won- 
dered that  they  have  not  heen  separated  into  distinct  genera. 
The  cultivation  of  them  is  more  difficult,  water  being  very 
prejudicial  to  them  when  they  are  inactive.  If  they  are 
well  managed,  they  flower  beautifully,  and  the  colours  are 
very  superior  and  peculiar,  having  frequently  bright  green 
and  purple  in  the  same  flower. 

The  following  list  comprehends  the  most  desirable  varie- 
ties that  we  have  seen  : 


PURE  WHITE,  PINK, 

MARKED  OR  STRIPED  WITH   MARKED  OR  CLOUDED  WITH 
RED,  PURPLE  OR  CRIMSON.         RED  OR  CRIMSON. 

Alexandrina,  Aglaia, 

Annette,  Corrine, 

Cecilia,  Eliza, 

Grandis,  Fanny  Garth, 

Madonna,  Lady  Mayoress, 

Mrs.  Clay,  Mrs.  Peck, 

Una,  Mrs.  Stiles, 

Witch.  Ophelia, 

Priory  Queen, 

Sylph, 
BLUSH,  Victory. 

MARKED    OR    STRIPED    WITH 

RED,  &C.  ROSE, 

Alba  multiflora,  early,  WITH  STRIPES  OR  SPOTS. 

Alicia, 

Bridegroom,  Conqueror, 

Florence,  Flash,  large  spot, 

Lady  Dillon,  Flamingo,  large  mark, 

Miss  Percival,  Harrisonii, 

Nymph.  Hebe, 

Lady  Douro, 

Madeline, 

Nonsuch, 


March.'] 

President, 

Siddonia, 

Triumphant, 

Vulcan, 

Vivid. 


GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. 


255 


Grand  Monarch, 

Jewess, 

Perfection,  (Dennis,) 

King  of  Hanover, 

Emperor. 


RED  OR  SCARLET, 

WITH  STRIPES  OR  SPOTS. 

Alarm, 

Climax, 

Comte  de  Paris, 

Erectum, 

Grand  Sultan, 

Gauntlet, 

Goliah, 

Henry  Clay, 

Isadorianum, 

King, 

Lifeguardsman, 

Oliver  Twist, 

Sapphire, 

Prince  of  Waterloo. 


DARK  RED, 

WITH  SPOTS  OR  STRIPES. 

Conservative, 
Grand  Turk, 


VERY  DARK  CRIMSON, 
OR  PURPLE, 

MARKED  WITH  BLACK. 

Ajax,  (purple,) 

Black  Hawk, 

Cassius, 

Lenoxii,  very  beautiful, 

Gipsey, 

Mulatto. 


VARIOUS,  CURIOUS  AND  FINE 
SORTS. 

Bipinnatifidum, 

Comptonianum, 

Echinatum, 

Maculatum, 

Sanguineum, 

Tricolor, 

Tricolor  major. 


There  are  several  others  very  recently  introduced,  which 
have  not  bloomed  so  as  to  allow  us  to  judge  of  their  merits ; 
but  their  foreign  characters  are  highly  nattering.  The  re- 
potting of  the  geranium  tribe  should  be  done  as  early  in 
the  month  as  possible,  or  even  about  the  end  of  last  month 
would  be  advisable  in  some  seasons.  (Soil  No.  12,  with 
a  little  more  manure.) 

Persoonias,  about  sixteen  species  of  dwarf  evergreen 


256  OIIEEN-UOUSE— REPOTTING. 

shrubs  ;  leaves  oblong,  or  lanceolate,  hairy  or  downy  ; 
flowers  axillary  and  solitary ;  the  pots  should  be  well 
drained,  and  the  plants  in  summer  protected  from  the  sun. 
P.  hirsiita,  P.  mollis,  P.  territifolia,  and  P.  liicida,  are 
the  most  distinct,  and  grow  freely.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Phormium  tenax,  New  Zealand  flax  lily,  the  only  spe- 
cies ;  foliage  resembling  an  Iris,  and  very  thready.  In 
New  Zealand  and  Norfolk  Island  the  natives  manufacture 
from  this  plant  a  kind  of  stuff  like  coarse  linen,  cordage, 
&c. ;  the  plant  is  very  hardy,  and  we  would  be  nowise 
surprised  to  see  it  stand  the  severity  of  our  winters.  It 
bears  exposure  to  the  open  air  in  Europe  in  the  fifty-sixth 
degree  of  north  latitude.  The  flowers  are  said  to  be  yel- 
low and  lily-like ;  of  the  easiest  culture.  (Soil  No.  7.) 

Phylicas,  above  twenty-five  species.  Several  of  them 
are  very  pretty  growing  evergreen  shrubs,  and  of  easy 
culture.  P.  horizontdlis,  P.  squarrusa,  P.  imbricdta,  P. 
myrtifdlia,  P.  callosa,  P.  bicolor  and  P.  ericoides,  are  all 
neat  growing ;  flowers  small  white,  in  heads :  drain  the 
pots  well,  and  keep  them  in  an  airy  situation.  The  foli- 
age of  several  of  the  species  is  downy.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Phaseolus  caracdlla,  or  snail-flower,  is  a  very  curious 
blooming  plant,  with  flowers  of  a  greenish  yellow,  all  spi- 
rally twisted,  in  great  profusion  when  the  plant  is  well 
grown.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Phcenix  dactyl'ifera,  common  date  palm  ;  a  plant  that  at- 
tains a  large  size,  and  of  rather  a  rugged  appearance ;  its 
fruit  is  the  common  well-known  date.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Pimeleas,  about  fourteen  species.  Most  of  them  are 
highly  esteemed,  and  are  not  often  seen  in  our  collections. 
P.  decussdta  is  the  finest  of  the  genus,  both  in  foliage  and 
flowers,  which  are  red,  and  in  large  terminal  clusters;  P. 
hispida,  P.  rosea,  P.  linifolia,  P.  spicata,  and  P.  spectablis, 
are  all  fine  species.  The  latter  has  very  beautiful  lanceo- 
late foliage  and  of  an  elegant  habit.  They  should  be  well 
drained.  They  are  very  small  evergreen  shrubs,  with 
wihte,  red,  or  pink  flowers.  (Soil  No.  G.) 

Pistadas,  seven  species  of  trees,  principally  of  the  south 
of  Europe.  There  is  nothing  particular  in  their  appear- 
ance, except  their  productions  in  their  native  country.  P. 
tcrcbinthus  is  deciduous  and  produces  the  Cyprus  turpen- 
tine. P.  Icntiscus  is  the  true  mastich  tree,  which  is  ob- 


GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  257 

tained  by  cutting  transverse  incisions  in  the  bark.  P. 
vera  and  P.  reticuldta  are  good  species  ;  leaves  pinnated ; 
leaflets  ovate,  lanceolate ;  easily  cultivated.  (Soil  No.  2.) 

Pittosporums,  about  nine  species,  with  handsome  foli- 
age, and  small  white  flowers  in  clusters,  which  are  fra- 
grant. P.  toblra  is  a  native  of  China,  and  nearly  hardy ; 
leaves  lucid,  obovate,  obtuse  and  smooth;  there  is  a  beautiful 
variegated  variety  of  it.  P.  undulatum,  P.  coridceum,  P. 
revolutum,  P.fulvum  and  P.ferrugineum,  are  very  orna- 
mental evergreens,  and  will  grow  with  the  most  simple 
treatment.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Platylobiums,  Flat  Pea,  four  species  of  fine  free-flower- 
ing plants  ;  flowers  leguminose  ;  colour  yellow.  P.  for- 
mosum,  P.  ovdtum  and  P.  trianguldre,  are  the  best;  the 
foliage  of  the  former  two  is  cordate,  ovate ;  the  latter  has- 
tate, with  spiny  angles.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Plumbagos,  Lead-wort.  There  are  only  two  species  of 
any  consequence  belonging  to  the  green-house,  P.  tristis 
and  P.  capensis.  The  former  is  a  shy  flowerer,  but  the 
latter  flowers  freely ;  colour  beautiful  light  blue,  and  flow- 
ers in  spikes ;  foliage  oblong,  entire,  and  a  little  glaucous ; 
of  very  easy  culture,  and  continues  in  bloom  a  considerable 
time.  (Soil  No.  1.) 

Podalyrias,  about  fourteen  species  of  pretty  Cape  shrubs; 
foliage  oblong,  obovate  and  silky-like ;  the  flowers  legumi- 
nose ;  colour  blue  or  pink.  P.  sericca,  P.  styracifolia,  P. 
coruscans,  P.  argentea,  P.  liparioides  and  P.  subiflora, 
are  the  finest  and  most  distinct  species,  and  flower  abun- 
dantly. (Soil  No.  6.) 

Proteas,  about  forty-four  species.  The  foliage  of  this 
genus  is  very  diversified  ;  flowers  very  large,  terminal ;  sta- 
mens protected  by  an  involucrum ,  many -leaved  and  imbri- 
cated ;  which  is  very  persistent.  P.  cynaroides  has  the 
largest  flower,  which  is  purple,  green  and  red.  P.  spe- 
ciosa,  P.  umbondlis,  once  P.  longifolia,  P.  melaleuca,  P. 
grandiflora,  P.  coccinea,  P.  cenocdrpa,  P.  pollens,  P.for- 
mosa,  P.  magnified,  P.  speciosa  riibra,  and  P.  melfifera, 
will  afford  a  very  good  variety.  It  is  almost  impossible  to 
describe  their  true  colour,  it  being  so  various  ;  red,  white, 
straw,  brown,  green  and  purple,  are  most  predominant,  and 
frequently  to  be  seen  in  the  same  flower.  The  plants  must 
be  well  drained ;  and  during  warm  weather  be  careful  that 
22* 


258  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [March. 

they  are  not  neglected  in  water,  for  if  they  are  suffered  to 
droop,  they  seldom  recover.  For  this  reason  the  pots  ought 
not  to  stand  in  the  strong  sun  ;  the  plants  can  bear  it,  but 
to  the  roots  it  is  injurious.  (Soil  No.  9.-) 

Pultenssas,  about  forty  species,  pretty  little  dwarf  grow- 
ing shrubs  of  New  South  Wales ;  flowers  small,  legumi- 
nose,  all  yellow,  with  a  little  red  outside  of  the  petals.  P. 
subumbetlcita,  P.  villosa,  P.  obcorddta,  P.  argentea,  P. 
plumosa,  P.Jlexilis,  shining  leaved,  fragrant ;  P.  Candida, 
and  P.  stricta,  are  all  fine  species,  and  esteemed  in  collec- 
tions. The  leaves  are  all  small;  they  require  an  airy  ex- 
posure, and  the  pots  drained.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Rhodochiton  voliibile,  or  Lophospermum  rhodochlton  : 
this  is  a  very  fine  climbing  plant,  with  large  tubular  dark 
brown  flowers,  blooming  from  July  to  October ;  it  is  of 
rapid  growth,  and  is  an  excellent  plant  for  the  flower-gar- 
den. The  plant  must  have  freque»t  repottings  to  make  it 
grow  rapidly,  for  the  finer  it  grows  the  more  profuse  will  it 
flower.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Rhododendrons,  (Rose  tree,)  a  magnificent  genus,  and 
contains  some  of  the  most  superb  and  gigantic  plants  that 
adorn  the  green-house.  At  present  the  most  admired  is 
R.  arboreum  with  its  varieties.  It  has  deep  crimson  flow- 
ers, with  dark  spots  and  flakes  campanulated,  and  in  large 
clusters  ;  leaves  lanceolate,  acute,  rough  and  silvery  be- 
neath, ft.  arboreum  album  is  very  rare.  R.  arboreum 
superbum,  flowers  same  shape  as  arboreum,  colour  bright 
rosy  scarlet;  foliage  one-third  larger,  but  not  silvery  be- 
neath; grows  freely,  and  generally  thought  the  finest 
variety.  R.  arborea  dlta-Clarence  is  also  very. superb. 
R.  arborea  Russelidnum,  pictum,  venustum,  guttdtum, 
tigrinum,  noblednum,  grandi/lorum,  spcctdbile,  are  all 
very  distinct;  but  there  are  so  many  other  varieties  from 
seed  that  they  Avill  soon  be  so  much  amalgamated,  that  the 
named  sorts  will  not  be  distinguished.  A  green-house 
without  some  of  the  choice  varieties  of  this  plant,  is  defi- 
cient of  a  flower  whose  beauty  and  grandeur  are  beyond  the 
highest  imagination.  It  is  a  native  of  Nepaul,  in  India, 
and,  when  found  by  Dr.  Wallach,  awakened  the  ambition 
of  every  cultivator  and  connoisseur  in  Europe.*  There 

*  Mr.  Hogg,  the  eminent  horticulturist  of  New  York,  raised  the 
first  plant  of  arboreum  from  seed  in  England. 


March.~\  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  259 

are  several  other  species  lately  brought  from  that  country, 
which  are  highly  valued :  the  species  are  R.  campanula- 
turn,  R.  anthopogon  and  R.  cinnamomum.  They  are 
rarely  seen  in  our  collections,  but  a  few  years  will  make 
them  more  plentiful.  Their  beauty  of  flower  is  beyond 
description.  The  pots  should  be  well  drained,  and  if  they 
are  large,  put  several  pieces  of  sandy  stone  or  potshreds 
around  the  side,  for  the  fine  fibres  delight  to  twine  about 
such,  being  mountainous  plants.  When  growing,  give 
copious  waterings  at  the  root.  For  young  plants  soil  No. 
6.  And  for  blooming  plants  use  one  portion  of  leaf 
mould. 

Roellas,  pretty  leafy  shrubs,  with  blue  terminal  funnel- 
shaped  flowers,  lip-spreading ;  R.  dlliuta,  R.  spicata  and 
R.  pedunculata,  are  the  finest  of  the  genus.  The  pots 
must  be  well  drained,  and  care  taken  that  they  are  not 
over-watered.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Sdlvia  (Sage)  is  an  extensive  genus  of  soft-wooded, 
shrubby,  or  herbaceous  plants ;  very  few  of  them  do  well 
in  the  green-house,  and  many  of  them  are  very  trifling, 
having  no  other  attraction  than  the  flower ;  and  those  of 
the  tender  species,  when  compared  with  S.fulgens,  crim- 
son, S.  splendens,  scarlet,  A',  angustifolia,  ^>ale  blue,  S. 
patens,  dark  blue,  S.  involucrata,  pink,  (which  in  artificial 
climates  constitute  the  standard  of  the  genus,)  are  not 
worth  cultivation.  The  best  method  to  adopt  with  the 
summer  flowering  kinds  is,  to  plant  them  in  the  garden  in 
May:  they  will  grow  strong  and  flower  abundantly,  and  in 
the  fall  they  can  be  lifted,  and  preserved  during  winter  in 
pots.  They  neither  grow  nor  flower  so  well  as  when 
planted  out,  and  even  a  slip  planted  in  the  ground  in  moist 
weather  will  root  in  a  few  days,  grow,  and  flower  in  a  few 
weeks.  S.  splendens  is  the  best  to  select  for  the  purpose. 
All  will  grow  easily  with  encouragement.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Scottias,  three  species  of  valuable  plants ;  S.  dentata, 
with  rosy  leguminose  blossoms;  leaves  opposite,  ovate, 
acuminate,  serrate ;  S.  angustifolia  has  brown  flowers ; 
S.  trapeziformus,  leaves  ovate,  acute,  serrulate.  We  do 
not  know  the  colour  of  its  flowers  ;  the  pots  must  be  well 
drained,  and  the  plants  kept  in  the  warmest  part  of  the 
green-house,  and  near  the  light.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Senecios.  Some  species  of  this  genus  are  pestiferous 
weeds  all  over  the  world.  They  are  even  found  near  the 


260  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [March. 

limits  of  perpetual  snow,  where  neither  tree  nor  shrub  is 
able  to  rear  its  head,  and  yet  there  are  a  few  species  that 
are  neat  little  plants,  and  are  worthy  of  a  situation,  namely 
— S.  grandiflorus,  S.  venustus,  and  S.  dnerdscens,  with 
the  double  white,  purple,  and  red  variety  of  S.  elegans. 
The  last  three  varieties  are  free  flowering,  but  if  allowed  to 
grow  several  years,  they  become  unsightly.  Being  very 
easily  propagated,  a  few  cuttings  of  them  should  be  put  "in, 
in  September,  and  in  two  weeks  they  will  strike  root,  when 
they  may  be  put  in  pots  to  keep  through  the  winter,  and 
then  planted  in  the  garden,  continuing  to  renew  them. 
The  other  mentioned  species  should  be  frequently  done 
the  same  way.  Do  not  keep  them  damp  during  winter, 
or  they  will  rot  off.  Give  them  an  airy  exposure.  (Soil 
No.  12.) 

Sollya  helerophylla :  a  good  climbing  plant  with  bright 
blue  clusters  of  drooping  flowers  ;  it  is  a  native  of  N.  Hol- 
land, and  will  prove  a  hardy  plant  south  of  latitude  36°. 
(Soil  No.  4.) 

Sparrmdnnias  are  strong-growing  green-house  shrubs. 
S.  africdna  is  a  plant  very  common  in  our  collections, 
with  large  three-lobed  cordate  leaves,  hairs  on  both  sides ; 
flowers  from  March  to  July.  S.  rugosa.  The  leaves  are 
rugged ;  flowers  of  both  are  white,  in  a  kind  of  corymb, 
supported  by  a  long  footstalk ;  buds  drooping,  flowers 
erect.  There  is  a  plant  known  in  our  collections  as  the 
free-flowering  Sparrmdnnia,  (which  is  Entelia  arbores- 
cens,)  and  is  easily  distinguished  from  Sparrmdnnia  by 
the  leaves  being  cordate,  acuminate,  and  otherwise,  by  all 
its  filaments  being  fertile,  and  the  flowers  more  branching, 
and  blooming  from  November  to  June,  profusely;  very 
easily  cultivated,  and  desirable.  (Soil  No.  12.) 

Sphserolobiums,  only  two  species  of  leafless  plants,  with 
yellow  and  red  leguminose  flowers,  which  proceed  from 
the  young  shoots.  S.  vimineum  and  S.  medium.  They 
flower  freely,  and  are  easily  cultivated.  The  old  wood 
should  be  frequently  cut  out  where  it  is  practicable. 
Drain  the  pots.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Sprengelia  incarnata,  the  only  species,  a  very  pretty 
plant,  allied  to  JEpdcris  ;  foliage  acuminate,  embracing  the 
stem;  flowers  small  pink,  bearded,^ and  in  close  spikes; 
grows  freely.  The  pots  must  be  well  drained,  and  the 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  361 

plants,  when  dormant,  watered  sparingly;  for  if  they  get 
sodden  about  the  roots,  they  very  seldom  recover.  (Soil 
No.  6.) 

Strelitzia,  or  queen  plant :  a  genus  of  fine  plants  belong- 
ing to  the  natural  order  of  Musacea.  S.  regina,  S.  ovdta, 
and  S.  humilis,  are  the  most  free  and  beautiful  flowering 
species,  and  are  very  similar,  except  in  habit.  The  flower 
stalk  is  from  one  to  two  feet  long,  producing  about  five 
flowers  of  a  bright  yellow,  having  a  large  blue  stigma, 
which  forms  a  distinct  contrast.  S.  juncea  and  S.  parvi- 
Jlora  are  also  desirable  species,  but  are  more  rare  than  the 
former,  which  ought  to  be  in  every  green-house.  (Soil 
No.  19.) 

Streptocarpus  rhexii,  a  free-blooming  dwarf  plant,  of 
easy  culture  in  soil  No.  4. 

Stylidium,  six  species  of  pretty  little  plants,  with  small 
linear  leaves,  and  remarkable  for  the  singular  elasticity  of 
the  style  or  column,  which,  when  the  flower  is  newly  ex- 
panded, lays  to  one  side,  and,  on  being  touched  with  a  pin, 
starts  with  violence  to  the  opposite  side.  S.  graminifo- 
lium,  S.  fruticosum,  S.  lancifolivm,  and  S.  adnatum, 
are  all  free-flowering ;  flowers  in  spikes,  very  small ;  colour 
light  and  dark  pink ;  blooms  from  April  to  July.  S.  adna- 
tum  is  half  herbaceous,  and  should,  when  growing,  be  kept 
nigh  the  glass,  or  it  will  be  drawn,  and  the  flowers  become 
of  a  pale  colour.  They  are  all  of  easy  cultivation.  (Soil 
No.  10.) 

Styphelias,  seven  species  of  very  showy  flowers,  with 
mucronate  leaves ;  corolla  in  long  tubular  form,  having 
several  bundles  of  hairs  in  it;  segments  reflex  and  bearded. 
S.  tubiflora,  crimson,  S.  triftora,  crimson  and  green,  S. 
adscendens,  and  S.  longiflora,  are  beautiful  species.  They 
grow  freely,  and  should  be  well  drained,  as  too  much  water 
is  very  hurtful  to  them.  In  summer  they  ought  not  to  be 
much  exposed  to  the  hot  sun,  or  the  foliage  will  become 
brown.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Sutherlandia  frutescens,  very  similar  to  Swainsbnia; 
flowers  fine  scarlet.  (Soil  No.  2.) 

Swainsonias,  four  species  of  free-flowering,  soft-wooded 
shrubs,  natives  of  New  South  Wales.  S.  galegifolia,  S. 
coronillsejolia,  and  S.  astragalifolia,  are  red,  purple,  and 
white ;  leguminose  flowers  in  spikes  from  the  axils,  are  of 


262  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.  [March. 

easy  culture,  and  deserving  of  a  situation ;  the  foliage  is 
pinnate ;  leaflets  ovate,  acute.  (Soil  No.  2.) 

Tecoma  is  a  genus  of  beautiful  flowering  plants,  sepa- 
rated from  Bignonia.  They  are  of  easy  culture  and  desira- 
ble in  all  collections.  T.  capensis  has  bright  orange  flowers 
in  large  clusters,  and  very  profuse  on  large  plants.  T. 
australis,  known  as  Bignonia  pandora,  has  white  and 
pink  flowers  in  great  profusion.  T.  jasminoides  is  quite 
a  new  plant,  producing  very  large  clusters  of  white  flowers 
with  a  bright  pink  centre  ;  it  is  a  charming  plant  for  climb- 
ing, and  the  foliage  is  of  a  very  agreeable  shining  green. 
The  plants  require  encouragement.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Telopea  spetiosissimus  is  the  only  species,  and  was 
once  called  Embothrium  spetiosissimus.  It  is  now  called 
Telopea,  in  allusion  to  the  brilliant  crimson  flowers,  Avhich, 
from  their  large  size,  are  seen  at  a  great  distance,  and 
which  render  it  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  productions 
of  New  South  Wales.  The  leaves  are  oblong,  deeply 
toothed,  veiny,  and  smooth;  wood  strong;  flower  ovate, 
connate,  and  terminal,  and  of  considerable  duration.  There 
ought  to  be  a  specimen  of  it  in  every  collection.  The  pots 
must  be  well  drained,  and  the  plant  in  the  extreme  heat  of 
summer  not  too  much  exposed  to  the  sun.  Very  scarce. 
(Soil  No.  19.) 

Testudinaria,  Elephant's  foot,  or  Hottentot's  bread,  two 
species,  remarkable  for  their  appearance.  The  root  or 
bulb,  if  it  may  be  so  called,  is  of  a  conical  shape,  and 
divided  into  transverse  sections.  Those  of  one  foot  dia- 
meter are  computed  to  be  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  of 
age.  It  is  a  climbing  herbaceous  plant,  with  entire  reni- 
form  leaves  of  no  beauty ;  flowers  small ;  colour  green. 
The  pots  must  be  well  drained,  for  when  the  plant  is  inac- 
tive, it  is  in  danger  of  suffering  from  moisture,  and  ought 
not  to  get  any  water.  T.  elephdntipes  and  T.  montana 
are  the  species,  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and 
require  the  warmest  part  of  the  house.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Thea :  a  genus  celebrated  over  the  known  world  as  fur- 
nishing the  domestic  drug  called  Tea.  T.  viridis,  and  T. 
bohea  are  said  to  be  the  species  which  supply  the  tea. 
Some  have  asserted  that  there  is  only  one  shrub  used,  but 
by  examination  it  may  be  easily  perceived  that  there  are 
leaves  of  various  shape  and  texture,  some  of  them  similar 


March.]  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  263 

to  Camellia  sesanqua.  Dr.  Abel  gives  an  explicit  detail 
of  the  growing  and  manufacturing  process  of  tea,  from 
which,  in  compliment  to  our  fair  patrons,  we  give  a  few 
extracts : 

"The  tea  districts  of  China  extend  from  the  twenty- 
seventh  to  the  thirty-first  degree  of  north  latitude.  It 
seems  to  succeed  best  on  the  sides  of  mountains.  The 
soils  from  which  I  collected  the  best  specimens  consisted 
chiefly  of  sand-stone,  schistus,  or  granite,  The  plants  are 
raised  from  seeds  sown  where  they  are  to  remain.  Three 
or  more  are  dropped  into  a  hole  four  or  five  inches  deep ; 
these  come  up  without  farther  trouble,  and  require  little 
culture,  except  that  of  removing  weeds,  till  the  plants  are 
three  years  old.  The  more  careful  stir  the  soil,  and  some 
manure  it,  but  the  latter  practice  is  seldom  adopted.  The 
third  year  the  leaves  are  gathered,  at  three  successive 
gatherings,  in  February,  April,  and  June,  and  so  on  until 
the  bushes  become  stunted  or  slow  in  their  growth,  which 
generally  happens  in  from  six  to  ten  years.  They  are 
then  cut  in  to  encourage  the  production  of  fresh  roots. 

"  The  gathering  of  the  leaves  is  performed  with  care  and 
selection.  The  leaves  are  plucked  off  one  by  one :  at  the 
first  gathering  only  the  unexpanded  and  tender  are  taken ; 
at  the  second  those  that  are  full  growth ;  and  at  the  third 
the  coarsest.  The  first  forms  what  is  called  in  Europe 
imperial  tea ;  but,  as  to  the  other  names  by  which  tea  is 
known,  the  Chinese  know  nothing ;  and  the  compounds 
and  names  are  supposed  to  be  made  and  given  by  the  mer- 
chants at  Canton,  who,  from  the  great  number  of  varieties 
brought  to  them,  have  an  ample  opportunity  of  doing  so. 
Formerly  it  was  thought  that  green  tea  was  gathered  ex- 
clusively from  T.  viridis;  but  that  now  is  doubtful,  though 
it  is  certain  that  there  is  what  is  called  the  green  tea  dis- 
trict and  black  tea  district ;  and  the  varieties  grown  in  the 
one  district  differ  from  those  of  the  other.  I  was  told  by 
competent  persons  that  either  of  the  two  plants  will  afford 
the  black  or  green  tea  of  the  shops,  but  that  the  broad  thin 
leaved  plant  (T.  viridis)  is  preferred  for  making  the  green 
tea. 

"The  tea  leaves  being  gathered,  are  cured  in  houses 
which  contain  from  five  to  twenty  small  furnaces,  about 
three  feet  high  each,  having  at  top  a  large  flat  iron  pan. 
There  is  also  a  long  low  table  covered  with  mats,  on  which 


GREEN-HOUSE— REPOTTING.  [March. 

the  leaves  are  laid,  and  rolled  by  workmen,  who  sit  round 
it :  the  iron  pan  being  heated  to  a  certain  degree,  by  a  little 
fire  made  in  the  furnace  underneath,  a  few  pounds  of  the 
fresh-gathered  leaves  are  put  upon  the  pan ;  the  fresh  and 
juicy  leaves  crack  when  they  touch  the  pan,  and  it  is  the 
business  of  the  operator  to  shift  them  as  quickly  as  possible, 
with  his  bare  hands,  till  they  cannot  be  easily  endured. 
At  this  instant  he  takes  off  the  leaves  with  a  kind  of  shovel 
resembling  a  fan,  and  pours  them  on  the  mats  before  the 
rollers,  who,  taking  small  quantities  at  a  time,  roll  them  in 
the  palm  of  their  hands  in  one  direction,  while  others  are 
fanning  them,  that  they  may  cool  the  more  speedily,  and 
retain  their  curl  the  longer.  This  process  is  repeated  two 
or  three  times,  or  oftener,  before  the  tea  is  put  into  the 
stores,  in  order  that  all  the  moisture  of  the  leaves  may  be 
thoroughly  dissipated,  and  their  curl  more  completely  pre- 
served. On  every  repetition  the  pan  is  less  heated,  and 
the  operation  performed  more  closely  and  cautiously.  The 
tea  is  then  separated  into  the  different  kinds,  and  deposited 
in  the  store  for  domestic  use  or  exportation. 

"  The  different  sorts  of  black  and  green  arise  not  merely 
from  soil,  situation,  or  the  age  of  the  leaf;  but  after  win- 
nowing the  tea,  the  leaves  are  taken  up  in  succession  as 
they  fall;  those  nearest  the  machine,  being  the  heaviest, 
are^the  gunpowder  tea;  the  light  dust  the  worst,  being 
chiefly  used  by  the  lower  classes.  That  which  is  brought 
down  to  Canton  then  undergoes  a  second  roasting,  win- 
nowing, packing,  &c.,  and  many  hundred  women  are 
employed  for  these  purposes."  Kaempfer  asserts  that  a 
species  of  Camellia  as  well  as  Olea  Fragrans  is  used  to 
give  it  a  high  flavour. 

Tacsbnia  pinnatistipula,  a  plant  much  resembling  a 
Passiflora,  both  in  flower  and  habits.  When  planted  into 
the  ground,  and  trained  up  the  rafters  of  the  green-house, 
it  makes  a  pretty  appearance  with  its  profusion  of  rosy 
blush -coloured  flowers.  (Soil  No.  13.) 

Tropseolum,  a  genus  of  generally  delicate  growing 
plants,  principally  from  South  America.  They  require 
nicety  of  treatment  to  bloom  them  well,  unless  a  large  bulb 
can  be  procured,  when  it  may  be  planted  in  a  seven-inch 
pot,  and  will  then  flower  without  farther  care  by  training 
their  delicate  shoots  on  a  wire  trellis,  or  small  twigs  of 


March.']  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  265 

branches  stuck  in  the  pots.  T.  tricoloriim,  T.  tricoloriim 
superbum,  and  T.  pentaphyllum,  have  beautiful  scarlet 
flowers  marked  with  yellow  and  black,  and  are  superb  and 
lovely  when  in  bloom.  T.  brachyseras  and  T.  luberosum 
have  yellow  flowers ;  the  roots  of  the  latter  are  considered 
a  good  vegetable.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Verbena.  The  beauty  of  the  green-house  in  spring, 
and  the  flower-garden  in  summer,  is  greatly  augmented 
by  the  late  introduction  of  this  lovely  family  of  perpetual 
flowering  plants.  There  are  among  them  every  shade  of 
colour,  from  the  richest  scarlet  to  the  purest  white,  and, 
in  addition  to  the  beauty  and  profusion  of  their  flowers, 
several  of  them  are  exquisitely  scented.  V.  chamsedry- 
folia,  or  melindres,  was  the  first  scarlet  species  introduced, 
and  it  is  yet  pretty.  V.  bicolor  grandiflora,  scarlet,  crim- 
son eye.  V.  blue  jay,  fine  blue ;  V.  elegans,  rose  ;  V. 
Feasiii,  large  white  lading  to  lilac;  V.  Julia,  beautiful 
large  rose;  V.  Mestonii,  bright  scarlet;  V.  queen,  pure 
white;  V.  gazelle,  very  dark  purple  crimson;  V.  perfec- 
tion, purple ;  V.  Wilsonii,  bluish  purple  ;  V.  Vesta,  beau- 
tiful pink ;  V.  Yarnellii,  very  dark  crimson. 

These  are  principally  new  varieties  of  perfect  formation, 
the  flowers  in  many  are  as  large  as  a  dime,  far  outvieing 
those  cultivated  a  few  years  ago.  It  is  only  seven  years 
since  I  grew  the  first  white,  pink  and  crimson  verbena, 
from  seed  received  from  Buenos  Ayres.  They  created  a  very 
great  excitement  in  the  Floral  world,  both  in  this  country 
and  Europe.  Now  there  are  thousands  produced  from 
seed  annually.  In  England,  they  bear  the  titled  name  of 
Ladies,  Marquesses  and  dueens,  commanding  a  very  high 
price ;  but  with  all  their  titles,  none  of  them  excel  a  few  of 
those  named  above.  They  require  very  little  water  during 
winter,  and  should  be  kept  on' a  dry  airy  "shelf  till  February, 
when  the  pots  may  be  enlarged,  except  those  intended  for 
the  garden,  which  can  be  planted  out  about  the  middle  of 
April.  Cuttings  of  the  young  shoots,  placed  in  sandy  soil 
and  covered  with  a  glass,  will  root  in  a  few  weeks.  The 
whole  family  should  be  industriously  collected  and  culti- 
vated ;  for  truly  we  are  not  acquainted  with  a  tribe  of  plants 
that  will  give  as  much  satisfaction  with  as  little  cost  and 
trouble :  they  naturally  grow  on  hills  and  elevated  plains, 
so  that  they  must  not  be  kept  wet.  (Soil  No.  ().) 


266  GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING.  [March. 

Veronica,  an  extensive  genus  of  plants  that  are  cultivated 
largely  as  ornaments  for  the  Flower  Garden.  Within  these 
few  years  some  very  beautiful  species  have  been  discovered 
in  New  Zealand.  Among  them  is  V.  speciosa,  a  picture 
of  a  plant  with  foliage  equal  to  a  Camellia,  producing  spikes 
about  three  inches  long,  of  bright  purple  flowers,  fading  to 
a  pale  blush.  It  is  of  the  simplest  culture — growing  freely 
and  symmetrically  in  soil  No.  9. 

Fiminaria  denuddta,  the  only  species.  This  plant  is 
remarkable  for  its  twiggy  appearance,  but  it  has  no  foliage, 
except  when  growing  from  seed.  It  has  at  the  extremity 
of  the  twigs  or  shoots  an  ovate,  lanceolate  leaf,  disappear- 
ing when  the  plant  grows  old ;  the  flowers  are  small, 
yellow,  coming  out  of  the  young  shoots,  to  the  astonish- 
ment of  the  beholder.  It  grows  freely.  (Soil  No.  6.) 

Viburnums.  A  few  of  these  are  very  ornamental  ever- 
green shrubs,  and  almost  hardy.  V.  tinus  is  the  well- 
known  Laurestine,  (or  what  is  commonly  called  Laures- 
tinus,)  is  of  the  easiest  culture ;  flowers  small  white,  and  in 
large  flattened  panicles  ;  blooming  from  February  to  May, 
and  universally  esteemed.  It  will  stand  the  winter  by  a 
little  protection,  but  the  flower  buds  being  formed  in  the 
fall,  the  intense  frost  destroys  them ;  consequently,  it  will 
not  flower  finely,  except  it  be  protected  from  severe  frost. 
V.  liicidum  is  a  good  species,  and  superior  in  flower  and 
foliage  to  the  former,  but  does  not  flower  so  freely  when 
the  plants  are  small.  When  they  grow  large,  they  flower 
profusely.  There  is  a  desirable  variegated  variety.  V. 
odoratissimum  has  smooth,  evergreen,  oblong,  elliptic, 
distinctly  toothed  leaves,  and  frequently  a  stripe  in  them, 
is  sweet-scented,  but  not  a  free  flowerer.  V.  hirsiitum  has 
flowers  similar  to  the  above ;  foliage  ovate,  with  rough 
brown  hairs  on  both  sides,  and  very  characteristic.  V. 
strictum  variegdtum  is  a  very  fine  variety,  and  upright 
growing.  These  plants  are  all  very  desirable,  blooming 
early  in  spring,  and  continuing  for  several  months ;  all 
easily  cultivated.  (Soil  No.  17.) 

Westringias,  a  genus  of  four  species,  very  like  the 
common  Rosemary.  W.  rosmariniformis,  leaves  lanceo- 
late, and  silvery  beneath ;  W.  longifolia  is  similar ;  both 
have  small  silvery  white  flowers,  and  are  easily  cultivated. 
(Soil  No.  2.) 


March."]  GREEN-HOUSE— REPOTTING.  267 

Witsenias,  four  species.  W.  corymbosa  is  a  plant  that 
has  stood  in  high  estimation  ever  since  it  was  known,  but, 
unfortunately,  there  is  a  very  inferior  plant.  Jlristea  cyanea 
got  into  our  collections  under  that  name.  The  panicles  of 
W.  corymbosa  are  quite  smooth ;  those  of  Jlristea  are  hairy, 
which  is  itself  sufficient  to  detect  them ;  but  otherwise  the 
appearance  of  W.  corymbosa  is  much  stronger  and  more 
erect  growing,  not  inclining  to  push  at  the  roots  so  much 
as  Aristza.  The  foliage  is  lanceolate  and  amplexicaule, 
the  leaves  having  much  the  nature  and  appearance  of  Iris, 
The  plant  is  of  easy  culture,  and  blooms  from  July  to 
November;  colour  fine  blue.  W.  ramosa  is  a  very  fine 
species,  similar  to  the  above ;  flowers  yellow  and  blue ; 
plant  branching.  (Soil  No.  8.) 

Yucca  aloefolia  and  its  beautiful  variety  variegdta  are 
desirable  plants.  They  do  not  bloom  till  they  have  grown 
to  considerable  size  ;  but  still  they  make  a  decided  contrast 
among  other  plants ;  the  flowers  are  white  and  produced 
on  terminal  spikes.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Zdmias,  about  twenty  species,  eight  of  which  belong  to 
this  compartment.  The  foliage  is  greatly  admired,  and  is 
in  large  fronds,  with  oblique,  lanceolate  leaflets.  Several 
of  them  glaucous.  They  bear  heads  of  flowers  of  a  brown 
colour  in  the  centre  of  the  plants,  very  like  large  pine  cones. 
Z.  horrida,  the  finest,  Z.  pungens,  Z.  spiralis,  and  Z.  lati- 
folia,  are  the  most  conspicuous.  They  must  be  kept  in 
the  warmest  part  of  the  green-house ;  and  give  them  large 
well-drained  pots,  watering  sparingly  during  winter.  They 
are  imported  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  (Soil  No.  11.) 
All  the  plants  herein  named  requiring  to  be  drained,  in 
preparing  the  pots,  place  first  a  piece  of  broken  pot,  oyster- 
shell,  or  any  similar  substitute,  with  the  convex  side  on  the 
hole  of  the  pot,  and  then  put  in  a  few,  or  a  handful,  (accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  pot,)  of  shivers  of  broken  pots,  or 
round  gravel  about  the  size  of  garden  beans.  Those  that 
we  have  mentioned  in  this  Repotting,  as  to  be  done  in  this 
or  beginning  of  next  month,  is  not  intended  to  apply  to 
plants  in  general,  large  and  small,  but  to  those  that  are 
young,  and  require  encouragement,  or  to  those  that  were 
not  shifted  last  autumn.  The  roots  must  not  be  disturbed, 
but  the  ball  turned  out  entire ;  and  put  as  much  earth  as 
will  raise  the  ball  within  about  half  an  inch  of  the  rim  of 


268  GREEN-HOUSE OF  ENARCHING,  &C.          [March. 

the  pot.  Press  the  earth  down  around  it  with  a  thin  nar- 
row piece  of  wood,  called  a  potting  stick,  frequently  shak- 
ing it  that  no  vacancy  may  be  left.  If  the  roots  are  rotten, 
or  otherwise  injured,  take  all  such  off.  If  this  be  the  case, 
the  plant  will  be  sickly.  Give  it  a  new  pot  of  a  smaller 
size,  administering  water  moderately  until  there  are  visible 
signs  of  fresh  growth.  The  plants  must  not  be  disturbed 
while  flowering ;  let  the  repotting  be  done  afterward. 
Plants  are,  at  certain  stages,  if  in  good  health,  in  a  state 
that  no  one  can  err  in  shifting  them  when  desirous  to 
hasten  their  growth.  Those  plants  that  make  two  or  more 
growths  during  the  summer  may  be  repotted  in  the  interim 
of  any  of  these  growths,  and  all  others  just  before  they 
begin  to  push  in  the  spring;  that  is,  when  the  wood  buds 
are  perceptibly  swelled.  Never  saturate  with  water  fresh- 
potted  plants.  There  are  many  kinds  that,  without  injury, 
can  be  repotted  when  growing.  When  done  potting,  tie 
all  up  neatly  with  stakes  rather  higher  than  the  plant,  that 
the  new  shoots  may  be  tied  thereto  during  the  summer,  to 
prevent  them  from  being  destroyed  by  the  wind.  There 
may  be  many  that  do  not  require  repotting,  but  would  be 
benefited  by  a  top-dressing.  This  should  be  done  by 
probing  off  all  the  surface  earth  down  to  the  roots,  replac- 
ing it  with  fresh  compost,  suitable  to  the  nature  of  the 
plant. 

When  the  above  is  done,  arrange  all  the  plants  in  proper 
order,  and  syringe  them  clean;  but  if  there  are  any  of  the 
green-fly,  they  must  be  fumigated  previous  to  syringing. 
The  pavement  of  the  house  should  be  cleanly  and  neatly 
swept  every  day,  and  washed  at  least  once  a  week.  Thus, 
every  part  of  the  house  will  be  in  order  before  the  hurry 
of  the  garden  commences. 


OF  ENARCHING  OR  GRAFTING  BY  APPROACH. 

In  this  method  of  grafting  the  scion  is  not  separated  from 
the  parent  plant  until  it  is  firmly  united  with  the  stock ; 
consequently,  they  must  stand  contiguously.  We  intend 
the  following  method  to  apply  directly  to  Camellias,  as 
they  are  the  principal  plants  in  the  green-house  that  are 
thus  worked.  The  criterion  for  the  operation  is  about  the 


March.']      GREEN-HOUSE— OF  ENARCHING,  &c.  269 

first  of  March  or  June.  Place  the  stock  contiguous  to  the 
plant  where  the  graft  or  enarch  is  to  be  taken  from.  If 
the  branches,  where  the  intended  union  is  to  take  place, 
do  not  grow  at  equal  heights,  a  slight  stage  may  be  erected 
to  elevate  the  lower  pot.  Take  the  branch  that  is  to  be 
enarched,  (the  wood  of  last  year  is  the  most  proper,)  and 
bring  it  in  contact  with  the  stock ;  mark  the  parts  where 
they  are  to  unite,  so  as  to  form  a  pointed  arch.  In  that 
part  of  the  branch  which  is  to  rest  against  the  stock,  pare 
off'  the  bark  and  part  of  the  wood  to  about  two  or  three 
inches  in  length,  and  in  the  side  of  the  stock  which  is  to 
receive  the  graft  do  the  same,  that  the  inside  rind  of  each 
may  be  exactly  opposite,  which  is  the  first  part  where  a 
union  will  take  place.  Bind  them  firmly  and  neatly  to- 
gether with  strands  of  Russia  matting,  and  protect  the  joint 
from  the  air  by  a  coat  of  close  composition  ;  clay  of  the  con- 
sistency of  thick  paint,  turpentine,  or  wax,  will  equally 
answer.  Finish  by  fastening  the  grafted  branch  to  the 
head  of  the  stock  or  a  rod.  Many  practitioners  make  a 
slit  or  tongue  into  the  enarch  and  stock,  but  we  find  it 
unnecessary,  more  tedious,  and  likewise  more  danger  in 
breaking.  Camellias  are  also  grafted  and  budded,  but 
these  two  operations  require  great  experience  and  con- 
tinued attention,  and  seldom  prove  so  successful  as  enarch- 
ing.  When  they  have  perfectly  taken,  which  will  be  in 
from  three  to  four  months,  begin  to  separate  them  by  cut- 
ting the  scion  a  little  at  three  different  periods,  about  a 
week  apart,  separating  it  at  the  third  time.  If  the  head  is 
intended  to  be  taken  off  the  stock,  do  it  in  like  manner. 
By  the  above  method,  many  kinds  can  be  grown  on  the 
same  stock.  The  same  plan  applies  to  all  evergreens. 


23* 


270  GREEN-HOUSE WATERING. 


APRIL. 

REGARDING  the  shifting  or  repotting  of  plants,  the  direc- 
tions given  last  month  may  be  followed.  If  the  plants  that 
require  it  are  not  shifted,  get  them  done  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble. Those  that  were  repotted  last  month  will  have  taken 
fresh  root  in  the  new  soil,  and  the  advantage  will  soon  be 
perceptible.  In  order  to  strengthen  the  plants,  and  keep 
them  from  becoming  drawn  and  spindly,  admit  large  por- 
tions of  air  every  mild  day.  Indeed  there  will  be  very 
few  days  in  this  month  that  a  little  air  may  not  be  given, 
always  observing  to  divide  the  quantity  regularly  over  the 
house,  in  cool  nights  closing  in  time.  About  the  end  of 
the  month  an  abundance  of  air  is  indispensable,  leaving 
the  sashes  and  doors  open  every  mild  night,  that  the  plants 
may  be  inured  to  the  open  exposure  they  will  have  in  a 
few  weeks. 


WATERING. 

As  the  season  advances  and  vegetation  increases,  the 
waterings  will  require  to  be  more  copious  and  more  fre- 
quent. Look  over  all  plants  minutely  every  day,  and  with 
judicious  care  supply  their  wants.  Those  that  are  of  a 
soft  shrubby  nature,  and  in  a  free-growing  state,  will 
require  a  larger  portion  at  one  time  than  those  of  a  hard 
texture,  which  may  only  want  it  every  two  or  three  days. 
The  weather  and  situation,  in  some  instances,  may  require 
a  modification  of  these  directions.  Plants  in  general  will 
not  suffer  so  soon  from  being  a  little  dry  as  from  being  over- 
watered.  The  health  and  beauty  of  the  foliage  of  the 
plants  may  be  much  improved  by  syringing  them  freely 
three  evenings  in  the  week,  except  in  moist  weather,  when 
it  ought  not  to  be  done.  The  ravages  of  many  insects  also 
will  be  retarded,  especially  mildew  and  red  spider,  which 
will  be  entirely  destroyed.  If  the  red  spider  is  on  any  of 
the  plants  particularly,  take  them  aside  evening  and  morn- 
ing, and  give  them  a  good  dashing  with  water  through  the 
syringe.  Where  there  is  mildew,  after  syringing  the  plant, 


J}pril.~\  GREEN-HOUSE — ORANGES,  &C.  271 

dust  it  on  the  affected  parts  with  flower  of  sulphur,  and  set 
them  for  a  few  days  where  they  will  be  sheltered  from  the 
wind,  after  which  wash  off  the  sulphur.  If  the  cure  is  not 
complete,  renew  the  dose.  Always  sweep  out  and  dry  up 
the  water  in  the  house  when  any  is  spilt.  The  succulent 
plants  will  be  in  want  of  a  little  water  about  once  a  week, 
but  do  not  over-water  them,  as  there  is  not  heat  enough  to 
absorb  much  moisture.  If  the  soil  is  damp,  it  is  quite  suf- 
ficient, o  •&>-•  I 


ORANGES,  LEMONS,  &c., 

Will,  in  many  instances,  about  the  end  of  this  month,  be 
showing  flowers  or  flower  buds.  They  must,  under  these 
circumstances,  have  plenty  of  air  to  prevent  them  from 
falling  off  when  entirely  exposed.  The  reason  that  we  see 
so  much  fine  blossom  falling  to  the  ground  where  the  trees 
are  brought  out  of  the  house  in  May,  is  from  the  confine- 
ment they  have  had.  Where  there  is  a  convenience  of 
giving  air  from  the  back  of  the  green-house,  it  should 
always  be  given  in  mild  days,  especially  in  those  houses 
that  have  a  recess  back  from  the  top  of  the  sashes,  for  even 
if  the  sashes  are  let  down  every  day,  still  the  house  will 
not  be  properly  ventilated.  Any  plants  that  are  sickly  and 
intended  to  be  planted  in  the  garden  next  month  to  reno- 
vate their  growth,  may  be  cut  back  (if  not  already  done) 
as  far  as  is  required  to  give  the  tree  a  handsome  form,  tak- 
ing care  not  to  cut  below  the  graft  or  inoculation.  Let  the 
operation  be  done  with  a  fine  saw  and  sharp  knife,  smooth- 
ing the  amputations  that  are  made  by  the  saw  ;  and  if  they 
are  large,  put  a  little  well-made  clay  over  the  wound,  to 
prevent  the  air  from  injuring  it.  Bees'-wax  and  turpen- 
tine are  preferable  to  clay,  not  being  subject  to  crack  or  fall 
off  by  the  weather. 

If  there  are  any  Lager strcemias,  Pomegranate  or  Hy- 
drangeas in  the  cellar,  they  should  be  brought  out  about 
the  first  of  the  month,  and  planted  in  their  respective  situa- 
tions. Give  the  Hydrangea  a  very  shady  spot.  It  does 
not  require  much  sun,  provided  it  has  plenty  of  air,  and 
do  not  plant  it  into  soil  that  has  been  lately  manured.  A 
large  plant  must  have  great  supplies  of  water  in  dry  wea- 


272  GREEN-HOUSE— GERANIUMS. 

ther.  If  the  plant  is  very  thick,  the  oldest  branches  may  be 
thinned  out,  but  do  not  cut  out  any  of  the  young  shoots,  as 
they  contain  the  embryo  of  the  flower.  Lagcrstroemias 
will  flower  abundantly  without  pruning,  but,  to  have  fine 
large  spikes  of  flowers,  cut  in  the  wood  of  last  year  to 
about  three  eyes  from  the  wood  of  the  preceding  year :  by 
this  they  will  be  much  finer.  Pomegranates  will  only  re- 
quire a  little  of  the  superfluous  wood  cut  out.  Perhaps 
some  of  them  may  be  desired  to  flower  in  pot  or  tubs  dur- 
ing summer :  the  balls  will  admit  of  being  much  reduced, 
and  by  this  a  pot  or  tub  very  little  larger  will  do  for  them. 
Do  not  give  much  water  until  they  begin  to  grow. 


MYRTLES  AND  OLEANDERS. 

If  any  of  these  have  grown  irregularly,  and  are  not  head- 
ed down  or  otherwise  pruned,  as  directed  last  month,  it 
should  now  be  done.  Oleanders  are  very  subject  to  the 
white  scaly  insect,  and,  before  the  heat  of  summer  begins, 
they  should  be  completely  cleansed.  This  insect  is  like- 
wise found  on  Myrtles,  which  are  worse  to  clean,  and  ought 
to  be  minutely  examined  twice  every  year.  We  have  ob- 
served the  red  spider  on  these  shrubs,  which  makes  the 
foliage  brown  and  unsightly.  If  it  is  detected  in  time, 
syringing  is  an  effectual  remedy. 


GERANIUMS. 

These  will  now  begin  to  flower,  and  the  sun  will  greatly 
deteriorate  their  rich  colours  where  they  are  near  the  glass 
with  a  southern  aspect.  The  glass  should  be  white-washed, 
or  covered  with  thin  muslin,  which  will  cast  a  light  shade 
over  them,  and  prolong  the  duration  of  the  bloom;  but  if  they 
are  above  five  feet  from  the  glass,  shading  is  not  requisite. 
The  strong  kinds  will  be  growing  very  luxuriantly,  and 
require  liberal  supplies  of  water.  When  syringing,  do 
not  sprinkle  the  flowers,  as  it  would  make  the  colours  in- 
termingle with  each  other,  and  cause  them  to  decay  pre- 
maturely. If  they  have  been  properly  attended  to  in  that 


GREEN-HOUSE FLOWERING  PLANTS.  273 

respect,  it  may  be  dispensed  with  after  they  have  come  in 
flower. 

Cape  Bulbs.  Those  that  flowered  late  in  autumn,  as 
soon  as  the  foliage  begins  to  decay,  may  be  set  aside,  and 
the  water  withheld  by  degrees.  When  the  foliage  is  en- 
tirely gone,  and  the  roots  dry,  clear  them  from  the  earth, 
and  after  laying  exposed  in  the  shade  for  a  few  days  to  dry, 
pack  them  up  in  dry  moss,  with  their  respective  names 
attached,  until  August,  when  they  may  be  again  potted. 
Treat  those  that  are  in  floAver  the  same  as  directed  in  last 
month. 

Dutch  Roots.  All  the  species  and  varieties  of  these  that 
have  been  kept  in  the  green-house  during  the  winter,  will 
now  be  done  flowering ;  the  water  should  be  withdrawn 
gradually  from  them;  and  then  the  pots  turned  on  their 
sides  to  ripen  the  bulbs.  Or,  a  superior  method  is,  where 
there  is  the  convenience  of  a  garden,  to  select  a  bed  not 
much  exposed.  Turn  the  balls  out  of  the  pots  and  plant 
them ;  the  roots  will  ripen  better  this  way  than  any  other. 
Have  them  correctly  marked,  that  no  error  may  take  place. 
They  can  be  lifted  with  the  other  garden  bulbs. 


FLOWERING  PLANTS. 

The  best  situation  for  most  plants  while  in  flower  is, 
where  they  are  shaded  from  the  sun  and  fully  exposed  to 
the  air.  Primroses,  both  European  and  Chinese,  flower 
best,  and  the  colours  are  finest,  when  the  plants  are  in  the 
front  of  the  house,  and  entirely  shaded.  The  Chinese 
Azaleas  and  Rhododendrons  require,  while  in  flower,  a 
similar  situation.  Have  all  the  shoots  tied  naturally  to  neat 
rods,  and  keep  them  clear  from  others  by  elevating  them 
on  empty  pots,  or  any  other  substitute.  See  that  there  are 
no  insects  upon  them ;  for  they  make  a  miserable  contrast 
with  flowers.  The  Cdlla  sethiopica  should  stand  in  water 
when  in  bloom,  and  even  before  flowering  they  will  be 
much  strengthened  by  it. 


274  GREEN-HOUSE FLOWERING  STOCKS.  [April. 


INSECTS. 

Insects  will,  on  some  plants,  be  very  perplexing.  The 
weather  may  admit  of  those  that  are  infected  to  be  taken  out 
of  doors,  and  put  into  a  frame  in  any  way  that  is  most  con- 
venient. Fumigating  them  about  fifteen  minutes,  if  the 
day  is  calm,  will  be  sufficient ;  but  if  windy,  they  will  take 
half  an  hour.  When  done,  syringe  them  well,  and  put 
them  in  their  respective  situations.  By  the  above  method, 
the  house  will  not  be  made  disagreeable  with  the  fumes  of 
tobacco. 

Tie  up  neatly  all  the  climbing  plants.  Keep  those  that 
are  running  up  the  rafters  of  the  house  close  to  the  longi- 
tudinal wires.  As  previously  observed,  running  plants 
should  not  be  taken  across  the  house,  except  in  some  in- 
stances where  it  can  be  done  over  the  pathway,  otherwise 
it  shades  the  house  too  much.  Clear  off  all  decayed  leaves 
and  all  contracted  foulness,  that  the  house  and  plants  may 
in  this  month  have  an  enlivening  aspect,  as  it  is  undoubt- 
edly one  of  the  most  interesting  seasons  of  the  year  in  the 
green-house. 


FLOWERING  STOCKS. 

Those  that  have  been  kept  in  the  green-house,  or  in 
frames,  should  be  planted  into  beds  or  the  borders,  where 
they  will  seed  better  than  if  kept  in  the  pots.  The  method 
generally  adopted  is,  to  select  the  plants  that  are  intended 
for  seed ;  plant  the  different  kinds  distinctly  and  separately ; 
then  take  a  few  double  flowering  plants  of  each  kind,  which 
plant  round  their  respective  single  varieties  that  are  to  be 
kept  for  seed.  Whenever  any  of  the  colours  sport,  that  is, 
become  spotted  or  striped  with  other  colours,  plant  such  by 
themselves,  for  they  will  soon  degenerate  the  whole,  and 
ought  never  to  be  seen  in  collections  that  have  any  preten- 
sions to  purity.  Many  have  been  the  plans  recommended 
as  the  best  for  saving  and  growing  from  seed  the  double 
varieties  of  German  stock.  In  every  method  we  have 
tried  we  have  been  successful  and  unsuccessful ;  although 
we  generally  practise  planting  the  Double  kinds  beside  the 


M(ty.~]  GREEN-HOUSE — WATERING,  &C.  275 

single,  where  they  are  intended  for  seed.  We  have  no 
scientific  reason  for  it;  not  seeing  what  influence  these 
monsters  of  flowers  can  have  over  a  flower  where  the  male 
and  female  organs  are  perfect ;  which  in  these  are  wanting. 
Some  say  that  the  semi-double  sorts  are  best :  we  have  like- 
wise found  them  both  abortive  and  fruitful  in  the  desired 
results. 


MAY. 

ABOUT  the  first  of  the  month  all  the  small  half  hardy 
plants  may  be  taken  out  of  the  green-house,  and  those 
that  are  left  will  be  more  benefited  by  a  freer  circulation  of 
air,  which  will  inure  them  to  exposure.  The  Geraniums 
ought  to  stand  perfectly  clear  of  other  plants,  while  in 
flower  and  growing,  or  they  will  be  much  drawn  and 
spindly. 


WATERING. 

We  have  advanced  so  much  on  this  subject,  another 
observation  is  not  necessary;  except  as  to  succulents,  which 
are  frequently  over-watered  about  this  period.  Before  they 
begin  to  grow,  once  a  week  is  sufficient. 


OF  BRINGING  OUT  THE  GREEN-HOUSE  PLANTS. 

Those  trees  or  plants  of  Orange,  Lemon,  Myrtle,  Nerium, 
&c.,  that  were  headed  down  with  the  intention  of  planting 
them  into  the  garden,  to  renovate  their  growth,  should  be 
brought  out  and  planted  in  the  situations  intended  for  them. 
A  good  light  rich  soil  will  do  for  either,  and  the  balls  of 
earth  might  be  a  little  reduced,  that,  when  they  are  lifted, 
they  might  go  into  the  same  pot  or  tub,  or  perhaps  a  less 
one.  This  being  done,  the  plants,  generally  in  a  calm  day 
from  the  12th  to  the  18th  of  the  month,  should  be  taken  out, 


276  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING  PLANTS.  [May. 

carrying  them  directly  to  a  situation  partially  shaded  from 
the  sun,  and  protected  from  the  wind.  In  regard  to  a 
situation  best  adapted  for  them  during  summer,  see  hot- 
house this  month,  which  will  equally  apply  to  green-house 
plants.  All  Primroses  and  Polyanthus  delight  in  shade. 
The  reason  of  so  many  plants  of  the  J).  odora*  dying,  is 
from  the  effects  of  the  sun  and  water.  We  keep  them 
always  in  the  green-house. 

The  large  trees  may  be  fancifully  set  either  in  a  spot  for 
the  purpose,  or  through  the  garden.  Put  bricks  or  pieces 
of  wood  under  the  tubs  to  prevent  them  from  rotting,  and 
strew  a  little  litter  of  any  description  over  the  surface  of  the 
soil  to  prevent  evaporation,  or  about  one  inch  of  well  de- 
cayed manure,  which  will,  from  the  waterings,  help  to 
enrich  the  soil.  A  liberal  supply  of  water  twice  or  three 
times  a  week  is  sufficient.  A  large  tree  will  take  at  one 
time  from  two  to  four  gallons.  We  make  this  observation, 
for  many  trees  evidently  have  too  limited  a  supply.  Con- 
tinue to  syringe  the  plants  through  the  dry  season  every 
evening,  or  at  least  three  times  per  week.  All  the  tall 
plants  must  be  tied  to  some  firm  support,  because  the 
squalls  of  wind  frequently  overturn  them,  and  do  much 
harm  by  breaking,  &c.  Keep  those  that  are  in  flower  as 
much  in  shade  as  will  preserve  them  from  the  direct  influ- 
ence of  the  sun. 


REPOTTING  PLANTS. 

After  the  following-mentioned  plants,  or  any  assimilated 
to  them,  are  brought  out  of  the  house,  and  before  they  are 
put  in  their  respective  stations,  repot  them  where  they  are 
required  to  grow  well.  Jlloes.  These  plants,  so  varied  in 

*  On  examining  these  plants,  when  the  first  appearance  of  decay 
affected  them,  the  decayed  part  was  without  exception  at  the  sur- 
face of  the  soil,  which  was  completely  mortified,  while  the  top  and 
roots  were  apparently  fresh.  This  led  us  to  conclude  that  the 
cause  was  the  effect  of  sun  and  water  on  the  stem.  We  have  since 
kept  the  earth  in  a  conical  form  round  the  stem,  thereby  throwing 
the  water  to  the  sides  of  the  pot,  and  kept  them  in  the  shade.  Pre- 
viously to  doing  this,  great  numbers  perished  every  year,  and  now 
no  plants  thus  treated  die  with  us. 


May.'}  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING  PLANTS.  277 

character,  have  been  divided  into  several  genera.  These 
are,  Gasteria,  Pachidendron,  Riphidodendron,  Howar- 
thia,  and  Jlpicra :  of  these  there  are  about  two  hundred 
species  and  varieties;  to  enter  into  any  specific  detail 
would  be  beyond  our  limits,  especially  with  a  tribe  of 
plants  that  as  yet  have  but  a  few  patrons.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Chamxrops.  There  are  about  seven  species  of  these 
palms  :  four  of  them  belong  to  this  department,  and  are  the 
finest  of  those  that  will  keep  in  the  green-house.  They  all 
have  large  palmated  fronds,  and  require  large  pots  or  tubs 
to  make  them  grow  freely,  and  are  tenacious  of  life  if  kept 
from  frost. 

Gardenia.  This  is  an  esteemed  genus  of  plants,  espe- 
cially for  the  double  flowering  varieties,  which  are  highly 
odoriferous,  and  have  an  evergreen  shining  foliage.  G. 
flbrida  flore  plena,  Cape  Jasmine,  is  a  plant  universally 
known  in  our  collections,  and  trees  of  it  are  frequently  seen 
above  seven  feet  high,  and  five  feet  in  diameter,  blooming 
from  June  to  October.  G.  rddicans,  dwarf  Cape  Jasmine, 
G.  longifolia,  G.  multiflbra,  and  G.  latifolia,  are  also  in 
several  collections,  but  not  so  generally  known ;  the  flowers 
are  double,  and  all  equally  fragrant.  We  are  inclined  to 
think  they  are  only  varieties  of  G.florida,  of  which  multi- 
flora  is  one  of  the  finest.  Any  of  the  above  will  keep  in 
the  coldest  part  of  the  green-house,  and  even  under  the 
front  of  the  stage  is  a  good  situation  for  them,  where  the 
house  is  otherwise  crowded  during  winter.  They  must 
be  sparingly  watered  from  November  to  March.  Much 
water,  while  they  are  dormant,  gives  the  foliage  a  sickly 
tinge,  a  state  in  whjch  they  are  too  frequently  seen.  G. 
rothmannia  and  G.  Thunbergia  are  fine  plants,  but 
seldom  flower ;  the  flowers  of  the  former  are  spotted,  and 
are  most  fragrant  during  night.  (Soil  No.  10.) 

Mesembryanthemum,  a  very  extensive  genus,  contain- 
ing upward  of  four  hundred  and  fifty  species  and  varieties, 
with  few  exceptions,  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 
They  are  all  singular,  many  of  them  beautiful,  and  some 
splendid ;  yet  they  have  never  been  popular  plants  in  our 
collections.  The  leaves  are  almost  of  every  shape  and 
form  ;  their  habits  vary  in  appearance.  Some  of  them  are 
straggling,  others  are  insignificant,  and  a  few  grotesque 
When  they  are  well  grown,  they  flower  in  great  profusion ; 
24 


278  GREEN-HOUSE CAPE  BTTLBS.  {May. 

the  colours  are  brilliant  and  of  every  shade ;  yellow  and 
white  are  most  prevalent.  Each  species  continues  a  con- 
siderable time  in  flower.  The  flowers  are  either  solitary, 
axillary,  extra-axillary,  but  most  frequently  terminal ;  leaves 
mostly  opposite,  thick,  or  succulent,  and  of  various  forms. 
They  are  sometimes  kept  in  the  hot-house,  but  undoubt- 
edly the  green-house  is  the  best  situation  for  them.  They 
must  not  get  water  above  twice  a  month  during  winter,  but 
while  they  are  in  flower,  and  through  the  summer,  they 
require  a  more  liberal  supply,  and  they  seldom  need  to  be 
repotted ;  once  a  year  is  sufficient.  (Soil  No.  18.) 


CAMELLIAS. 

These  plants,  when  they  are  brought  from  the  green- 
house, (which  should  be  about  the  end  of  June,)  ought  to 
be  set  in  a  situation  by  themselves,  that  they  may  be  the 
more  strictly  attended  to  in  watering  and  syringing.  An 
airy  situation,  where  the  sun  has  little  effect  upon  them,  is 
the  best.  They  should  be  syringed  every  evening  when 
there  has  been  no  rain  through  the  day.  After  heavy 
rains  examine  the  pots,  and  where  water  is  found,  turn  the 
plant  on  its  side  for  a  few  hours  to  let  the  water  pass  off, 
and  then  examine  the  draining  in  the  bottom  of  the  pots, 
which  must  be  defective. 


CAPE  BULBS. 

As  soon  as  these  are  done  flowering,  and  the  foliage 
begins  to  decay,  cease  watering,  and  turn  the  pots  on  their 
sides,  until  the  soil  is  perfectly  dry;  then  take  out  the 
bulbs,  and  preserve  them  dry  until  the  time  of  planting, 
which  will  be  about  the  end  of  August  or  first  of  Sep- 
tember. 


June  and  July.~]    GREEN-HOUSE — OBSERVATIONS.          279 


JUNE  AND  JULY. 

THE  plants  being  out  of  the  house,  there  need  be  little, 
added  under  this  head.  Their  treatment  is  in  the  general, 
and  the  required  attention  is  in  giving  water  according  to 
their  different  constitutions  and  habits.  Where  there  is 
no  rain  nor  river  water,  it  should  stand  at  least  one  day  in 
butts  or  cisterns,  to  take  the  chilly  air  from  it,  and  become 
softened  by  the  surrounding  atmosphere.  This  is  more 
essential  to  the  health  of  the  plants  than  is  generally  sup- 
posed. The  small  plants  in  dry  weather  will  need  water 
evening  and  morning.  Continue  regular  syringings  as 
directed  last  month.  There  are  frequently  rains  continuing 
for  several  days,  which  will  materially  injure  many  plants 
if  they  are  not  turned  on  their  sides,  or  defended  by  sash 
or  shutters,  until  the  rain  is  over,  especially  small  plants. 
The  syringings  should  never  be  done  till  after  the  water- 
ings at  the  roots,  and  they  should  never  be  more  seldom 
than  every  alternate  evening.  Turn  all  the  plants  fre- 
quently, to  prevent  them  from  being  drawn  to  one  side  by 
the  sun  or  light.  Carefully  look  over  them  at  these  turn- 
ings, to  detect  any  insects ;  and  observe  that  the  tuberose- 
rooted  or  deciduous  geraniums,  such  as  Jlrdens,  Hicolor, 
Comptonia,  Echinatum,  Tristum,  &c.,  are  not  getting  too 
much  water,  they  being  now  dormant. 


280  GREEN-HOUSE GERANIUMS. 


AUGUST. 

ANY  of  the  Myrtles,  Oranges,  Lemons,  Oleanders,  &c., 
that  were  headed  down  in  April  or  May,  will  be  pushing 
many  young  shoots.  The  plant  must  be  carefully  exa- 
mined, to  observe  which  of  the  shoots  ought  to  be  left  to 
form  the  tree.  Having  determined  on  this,  cut  out  all  the 
others  close  to  the  stem  with  a  small  sharp  knife ;  and  if 
the  remaining  shoots  are  above  one  foot  long,  pinch  off  the 
tops  to  make  them  branch  out. 

The  trees  that  were  entirely  headed  down  should  not 
have  above  six  shoots  left,  which  will,  by  being  topped, 
make  a  sufficient  quantity  to  form  the  bush  or  tree. 


GERANIUMS. 

These  plants,  about  the  first  of  the  month,  require  a 
complete  dressing.  In  the  first  place  collect  them  all  to- 
gether, and,  with  a  sharp  knife,  cut  off  the  wood  of  this 
year  to  within  a  few  eyes  of  the  wood  of  last  year.  Citri- 
odorum  and  its  varieties  do  not  need  pruning.  The  plants 
grown  from  cuttings  during  the  season,  that  have  flowered, 
cut  them  to  about  three  inches  from  the  pot.  This  being 
done,  have  the  earth  all  prepared,  and  potsherds  or  fine 
gravel  at  hand,  for  draining  the  delicate  kinds.  Choose  a 
cloudy  day  for  the  operation,  and  turn  the  plants  progres- 
sively out  of  the  pots  they  are  in,  reducing  the  baSs  of 
earth  so  that  the  same  pots  may  contain  them  again,  and 
allow  from  half  an  inch  to  two  inches,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  pot,  of  fresh  soil  around  the  ball,  carefully  pressing 
it  with  the  potting-stick.  Finish  by  leveling  all  neatly 
with  the  hand.  Give  very  gentle  waterings  from  a  pot 
with  a  rose  mouth,  for  a  few  weeks,  until  they  have  begun 
to  grow.  The  tuberous-rooted  and  deciduous  species  must 
be  very  moderately  supplied.  Be  careful,  Avhen  watering, 
that  the  new  soil  does  not  become  saturated  with  water, 
for,  though  allowed  to  dry  again,  it  will  not  be  so  pure. 
When  they  grow  afresh,  expose  them  fully  to  the  sun,  turn 


GREEN-HOUSE ORANGES,  &C.  281 

them  regularly  every  two  weeks,  to  prevent  them  growing 
to  one  side. 


ORANGES,  LEMONS,  &c. 

As  it  is  frequently  very  inconvenient  to  shift  these  trees 
into  larger  tubs  in  the  months  of  March  and  April,  this 
month  is  a  period  that  is  suitable,  both  from  the  growth  of 
the  trees  and  their  being  in  the  open  air.  It  would  be 
improper  to  state  the  day  or  the  week,  that  depending 
entirely  on  the  season.  The  criterion  is  easily  observed, 
which  is  when  the  first  growth  is  over,  these  trees  making 
another  growth  in  autumn.  When  they  are  large,  they 
require  great  exertion,  and  are  frequently  attended  with 
inconvenience  to  get  them  shifted.  Where  there  is  a 
quantity  of  them,  the  best  plan  that  we  have  tried  or  seen 
adopted  is  as  follows :  Have  a  strong  double  and  a  single 
block  trimmed  with  a  sufficiency  of  rope  ;  make  it  fast  to 
the  limb  of  a  large  tree,  or  any  thing  that  projects  and  will 
bear  the  weight,  and  as  high  as  will  admit  of  the  plant 
being  raised  a  few  feet  under  it.  Take  a  soft  bandage 
and  put  around  the  stem,  to  prevent  the  bark  from  being 
bruised ;  make  a  rope  fast  to  it,  in  which  hook  the  single 
block.  Raise  the  plant  the  height  of  the  tub,  put  a  spar 
across  the  tub,  and  strike  on  the  spar  with  a  mallet,  which 
will  separate  the  tub  from  the  ball.  Then  with  a  strong 
pointed  stick  probe  a  little  of  the  earth  from  among  the 
roots,  observing  to  cut  away  any  that  are  affected  by  dry 
rot,  damp,  or  mildew,  with  any  very  matted  roots.  Having 
all  dressed,  place  a  potsherds  over  the  hole  or  holes  in  the 
bottom  of  the  tub ;  measure  exactly  the  depth  of  the  ball 
that  remains  around  the  plant,  and  fill  up  with  earth,  pres- 
sing it  well  with  the  hand,  until  it  will  hold  the  ball  one 
inch  under  the  edge  of  the  tub.  If  there  is  from  two  to 
four  inches  of  earth  under  it,  it  is  quite  enough.  Fill  all 
around  the  ball,  and  press  it  down  with  a  stick,  finishing 
neatly  off  with  the  hand.  Observe  that  the  stem  of  the 
tree  is  exactly  in  the  centre.  This  being  done,  carry  the 
tree  to  where  it  is  intended  to  stand,  and  give  it  water  with 
a  rose  on  the  pot.  The  earth  will  subside  about  two  inches, 
thus  leaving  three  inches,  which  will,  at  any  time,  hold 
24* 


282  GUEEN-HOUSE — OF  PRUNING,  &C. 

enough  of  water  for  the  tree.  Trees  thus  treated  will  not 
require  to  be  shifted  again  within  four  or  five  years,  having 
in  the  interim  got  a  few  rich  top-dressings. 

Frequently,  in  attempting  to  take  out  of  the  tubs  those 
that  are  in  a  sickly  state,  all  the  soil  falls  from  their  roots, 
having  no  fibres  attached.  When  there  are  any  such, 
after  replanting,  put  them  in  the  green-house,  and  shut  it 
almost  close  up,  there  give  shade  to  the  tree,  and  frequent 
sprinklings  of  water,  until  it  begins  to  grow,  when  admit 
more  air  gradually  until  it  becomes  hardened.  Sickly 
trees  should  be  put  in  very  small  tubs,  and  a  little  sand 
added  to  the  soil.  Give  very  moderate  supplies  of  water, 
merely  keeping  the  soil  moist.  Tubs  generally  give  way 
at  the  bottom  when  they  begin  to  decay,  and  in  the  usual 
method  of  coopering  after  this  failure  they  are  useless,  the 
ledging  being  rotten,  and  will  not  admit  of  another  bottom. 
The  staves  should  be  made  without  any  groove,  and  have 
four  brackets  nailed  on  the  inside,  having  the  bottom  in  a 
piece  by  itself,  that  it  can  be  placed  on  these  brackets,  and 
there  is  no  necessity  of  it  being  water  tight.  Then  when 
it  fails,  it  can  be  replaced  again  at  a  trifling  expense.  A 
tub  made  in  this  way  will  last  out  three  or  four  bottoms, 
and  is  in  every  respect  the  cheapest,  and  should  be  more 
wide  than  deep.  When  made  in  this  manner  they  are 
easier  shifted ;  you  have  only  to  set  the  tub  on  a  high  block 
of  wood,  and  drive  the  tub  off  with  a  mallet,  when  the  tree 
can  be  easily  replaced  into  another  tub.  Large  Myrtles 
and  Oleanders  may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as 
directed  for  the  above. 


OF  PRUNING  ORANGES,  LEMONS,  &c. 

These  trees  will  grow  very  irregularly,  especially  the 
Lemon,  if  not  frequently  dressed  or  pruned.  Any  time 
this  month  look  over  them  all  minutely,  and  cut  away  any 
of  the  small  naked  wood  where  it  is  too  crowded,  and  cut  all 
young  strong  straggling  shoots  to  the  bounds  of  the  tree, 
giving  it  a  round  regular  head.  It  is  sometimes  necessary 
to  cut  out  a  small  limb,  but  large  amputations  should  be 
avoided.  Cover  all  large  wounds  with  clay,  turpentine,  or 
bees'-wax,  to  prevent  the  bad  effects  of  the  air. 


£ugUSt.~]          GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING,  &C. 


OF  REPOTTING  PLANTS. 

Any  of  the  plants  enumerated  in  March  under  this  head 
may  be  now  done  according  to  directions  therein  given, 
and  which  apply  to  all  sizes.  This  is  the  proper  period 
for  repotting  the  following : 

Calla,  a  genus  of  four  species.  None  of  them  in  our 
collections,  and  in  fact  not  worth  cultivation,  except  C. 
sethiopica,  Ethiopian  Lily,  which  is  admired  for  the  purity 
and  singularity  of  its  large  white  flowers,  or  rather  spatha, 
which  is  cucullate,  leaves  sagittate.  It  is  now  called  Rich- 
ardia  sethiopica.  The  roots,  which  are  tubers,  should  be 
entirely  divested  of  the  soil  they  -have  been  grown  in, 
breaking  off  any  small  off-sets,  and  potting  them  wholly  in 
fresh  earth.  When  growing  they  cannot  get  too  much 
water.  The  plant  will  grow  in  a  pond  of  water,  and  with- 
stand our  severest  winters,  provided  the  roots  are  kept  at 
the  bottom  of  the  water. 

Cyclamen.  There  are  eight  species  and  six  varieties  of 
this  genus,  which  consists  of  humble  plants  with  very 
beautiful  flowers.  The  bulbs  are  round,  flattened  and  solid, 
and  are  peculiarly  adapted  for  pots  and  the  decorating  of 
rooms.  C.  count,  leaves  almost  round  ;  flowers  light  red ; 
in  bloom  from  January  to  April.  C.persicum,  with  its  four 
varieties,  flower  from  January  to  April ;  colour  white,  and 
some  white  and  purple.  C.  hederssfdlium,  Ivy-leaved ; 
colour  lilac ;  there  is  a  white  variety ;  flowers  from  Sep- 
tember to  December.  O.  Europseum,  colour  lilac,  in  bloom 
from  August  to  October.  C.  neapolitanum,  flowers  red,  in 
bloom  from  July  to  September.  These  are  all  desirable 
plants.  When  the  foliage  begins  to  decay,  withhold  the 
accustomed  supplies  of  water,  keeping  them  in  a  half  dry 
state ;  and,  when  growing,  they  must  not  be  over- watered, 
as  they  are  apt  to  rot  from  moisture.  Keep  them  during 
the  summer  months  in  partial  shade.  The  best  time  for 
potting  either  of  the  sorts  is  when  (he  crown  of  the  bulb 
begins  to  protrude.  If  the  pots  are  becoming  large,  every 
alternate  year  they  may  be  cleared  from  the  old  soil,  and 
put  in  smaller  pots  with  the  crown  entirely  above  the 
ground.  When  the  flowers  fade,  the  pedicles  twist  up  like 
a  screw,  enclosing  the  germen  in  the  centre,  lying  close  to 


284  GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING,  &C. 

the  ground  until  the  seeds  ripen,  from  which  plants  can 
be  grown,  and  will  flower  the  third  year. 

Lachendlia,  a  genus  of  about  forty  species  of  bulbs,  all 
natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  grow  well  in  our 
collections.  The  most  common  is  L.  tricolor.  L.  quadri- 
color  and  its  varieties,  are  all  fine ;  the  colours  yellow,  scar- 
let, orange  and  green,  very  pure  and  distinct ;  L.  riibida,  L. 
punctdta,  L.  orchoides  and  L.  nervosa,  are  all  fine  species. 
The  flowers  are  on  a  stem  from  a  half  to  one  foot  high, 
and  much  in  the  character  of  a  hyacinth.  The  end  of  the 
month  is  about  the  time  of  planting.  Five-inch  pots  are 
large  enough,  and  they  must  get  very  little  water  till  they 
begin  to  grow. 

Oxalis,  above  one  hundred  species  of  Cape  bulbs,  and, 
like  all  other  bulbs  of  that  country,  they  do  exceedingly 
well  in  our  collections,  in  which  there  are^only  compara- 
tively a  few  species,  not  exceeding  twenty.  O.  hirta, 
branching,  of  a  vermilion  colour;  O.Jlabifolia,  yellow;  O. 
elongata,  striped;  and  amsena,  are  those  that  require  pot- 
ting this  month.  The  first  of  September  is  the  most  pro- 
per period  for  the  others.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

This  genus  of  plants  is  so  varied  in  the  construction  of 
its  roots,  that  the  same  treatment  will  not  do  for  all.  The 
root  is  commonly  bulbous,  and  these  will  keep  a  few  weeks 
or  months  out  of  the  soil,  according  to  their  size.  Several 
are  only  thick  and  fleshy ;  these  ought  not  to  be  taken  out 
of  the  pots,  but  kept  in  them,  while  dormant ;  and  about 
the  end  of  this  month  give  them  gentle  waterings.  When 
they  begin  to  grow,  take  the  earth  from  the  roots,  and  put 
them  in  fresh  soil.  In  a  few  months  the  bulbs  are  curiously 
produced,  the  original  bulb  near  the  surface  striking  a 
radical  fibre  downright  from  its  base,  at  the  extremity  of 
which  is  produced  a  new  bulb  for  the  next  year's  plant,  the 
old  one  perishing. 

Ornithogalum,  Star  of  Bethlehem,  about  sixty  species 
of  bulbs,  principally  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  Many 
of  them  have  but  little  attraction.  The  most  beautiful  that 
we  have  seen  are,  O.  lacteum  which  has  a  spike  about  one 
foot  long,  of  fine  white  flowers ;  O.  peruvidna,  blue  flow- 
ered, and  O.  aiireum,  flowers  of  a  golden  colour,  in  con- 
tracted racemose  corymbs.  These  three  are  magnificent. 
O.  maritimum  is  the  oflicinal  squill.  The  bulb  is  fre- 


Sept.~]  GREEN-HOUSE  -  OBSERVATIONS.  385 


quently 
cated  li 


as  large  as  a  human  head,  pear-shaped,  and  tuni- 
cated  like  the  onion.  From  the  centre  of  the  root  arise 
several  shining  glaucous  leaves  a  foot  long,  two  inches 
broad  at  base,  and  narrowing  to  a  point.  They  are  green 
during  winter,  and  decay  in  the  spring  ;  then  the  flower- 
stalk  comes  out,  rising  two  feet,  naked  half-way,  and  ter- 
minated by  a  pyramidal  thyrse  of  white  bowers.  The  bulb 
ought  to  be  kept  dry  from  the  end  of  June  till  now,  or  it 
will  not  flower  freely. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

Watering,  and  other  practical  care  of  the  plants,  to  be 
done  as  heretofore  described.  Frequently  the  weather  at 
the  end  of  this  month  becomes  cool  and  heavy.  Dew  fall- 
ing through  the  night,  will,  in  part,  supply  the  syringing 
operation,  but  it  must  not  be  suspended  altogether.  Once 
or  twice  a  week  will  suffice.  Any  of  the  plants  that  are 
plunged  should  be  turned  every  week.  In  wet  weather 
observe  that  none  are  suffering  from  moisture. 


SEPTEMBER. 

DURING  this  month  every  part  of  the  green-house  should 
have  a  thorough  cleansing,  which  is  too  frequently  neglected, 
and  many  hundreds  of  insects  left  unmolested.  To  pre- 
serve the  wood-work  in  good  order,  give  it  one  coat  of  paint 
every  year.  Repair  all  broken  glass,  white-wash  the  whole 
interior,  giving  the  flues  two  or  three  coats,  and  cover  the 
stages  with  hot  lime,  white-wash,  or  oil-paint;  examine 
ropes,  pulleys,  and  weights,  finishing  by  washing  the  pave- 
ment perfectly  clean.  If  there  have  been  any  plants  in  the 
house  during  summer,  be  sure  after  this  cleansing  that 
they  are  clean  also,  before  they  are  returned  to  their  re- 
spective situations. 


286  GREEN-HOUSE STOCKS,  &C.  [Sept. 


f  OF  WATERING. 

The  intensity  of  the  heat  being  over  for  the  season,  the 
heavy  dews  during  night  will  prevent  so  much  absorption 
among  the  plants.  They  will,  in  general,  especially  by  the 
end  of  the  month,  require  limited  supplies  of  water  compa- 
ratively to  their  wants  in  the  summer  months.  Be  careful 
among  the  Geraniums  that  were  repotted  in  August,  not 
to  water  them  until  the  new  soil  about  their  roots  is  becom- 
ing dry.  Syringing  in  this  month  may  be  suspended  in 
time  of  heavy  dews,  but  in  dry  nights  resort  to  it  again. 

The  herbaceous  plants  and  those  of  a  succulent  nature 
must  be  sparingly  supplied.  The  large  trees  that  were 
put  in  new  earth  will  require  a  supply  only  once  a  week, 
but  in  such  quantity  as  will  go  to  the  bottom  of  the  tubs. 


PREPARING  FOR  TAKING  IN  THE  PLANTS. 

About  the  end  of  the  month  all  the  plants  should  be  exa- 
mined and  cleaned  in  like  manner  as  directed  for  those  of 
the  hot-house  last  month,  which  see.  From  the  first  to 
the  eighth  of  October  is  the  most  proper  time  to  take  them 
into  the  green-house,  except  those  of  a  half  hardy  nature, 
which  may  stand  out  till  the  appearance  of  frost.  Always 
endeavour  to  have  Geranium  plants  short  and  bushy,  for 
they  are  unsightly  otherwise,  except  where  a  few  very 
large  specimens  are  desired  for  show.  All  Myrtles  and 
Oleanders  that  were  headed  down,  if  the  young  shoots  are 
too  crowded,  continue  to  thin  them  out,  and  give  regular 
turnings,  that  all  the  heads  may  grow  regularly. 


.  STOCKS  AND  WALL-FLOWERS, 

That  are  wanted  to  flower  in  the  green-house,  (where 
they  do  remarkably  well,)  and  are  in  the  ground,  have 
them  carefully  lifted  before  the  end  of  the  month,  and 
planted  in  six  or  seven  inch  pots,  with  light  loamy  soil. 
Place  them  in  the  shade  till  they  take  fresh  root,  and  give 
them  frequent  sprinklings  of  water.  As  soon  as  the  foliage 


Sept.~\      GREEN-HOUSE—CAPE  AND  HOLLAND  BULBS.  287 

becomes  erect,  expose  them  to  the  full  sun,  and  treat  as 
green-house  plants. 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 

These  very  ornamental  plants  blooming  so  late,  and  at  a 
period  when  there  are  few  others  in  flower,  one  of  each 
variety  (or  two  of  some  of  the  finest)  should  be  lifted  and 
put  in  eight-inch  pots,  in  light  loamy  soil,  and  treated  as 
above  directed  for  stocks,  &c.  These  will  flower  beauti- 
fully from  October  to  December ;  and,  when  done  bloom- 
ing, the  pots  may  be  plunged  in  the  garden,  or  covered 
with  any  kind  of  litter  until  spring,  when  they  can  be 
divided,  and  planted  out. 


CAPE  AND  HOLLAND  BULBS. 

About  the  end  of  this  month  is  the  period  for  all  of  these 
that  are  intended  for  the  green-house  to  be  potted.  We 
specified  some  of  the  former  last  month,  and  will  here  enu- 
merate a  few  others. 

Babiana,  a  genus  of  small  bulbs,  with  pretty  blue,  white, 
red,  and  yellow  flowers.  B.  distica,  pale  blue  flowers  in 
two  ranks.  B.  stricfa,  flowers  blue  and  white.  B.  tubi- 
JJora,  beautiful  bright  blue.  B.  plicdta  has  sweet-scented 
pale  blue  flowers.  B.  villosa,red',  B.  sulphurea,  sulphur 
colour;  B.  rubro-cyanea,  dark  purple  with  crimson  centre. 
There  are  about  twenty  species  of  them,  and  they  grow 
from  six  to  twelve  inches  high.  Five  inch  pots  are  suffi- 
cient for  them.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Gladiolus,  Corn-flag,  a  genus  of  above  fifty  species. 
There  are  several  very  showy  plants  among  them,  and  a 
few  very  superb.  G.  floribundus,  large  pink  and  white 
flowers.  G.  cardindlis,  flowers  superb  scarlet,  spotted 
with  white.  G.  byzantinus,  purple.  G.  bldndus,  flowers 
of  a  blush  rose  colour,  and  handsome.  G.  cuspiddtus, 
flowers  white  and  purple.  G.  racemdsus,  flowers  beauti- 
ful rose  and  white.  G.  psittadnus ;  the  flowers  are  striped 
with  green,  yellow,  and  scarlet,  about  four  inches  in  dia- 
meter, in  great  profusion,  on  a  stem  about  two  feet  high, 


288  GREEN-HOUSE CAPE  AND  HOLLAND  BULBS.      [Sept. 

G.formosissimus,  beautiful  bright  scarlet,  the  three  upper 
petals  having  a  spot  of  white,  a  very  profuse  bloomer.  G. 
Queen  Victoria,  G.  Lafayette,  and  several  others  are  of 
very  similar  character.  They  all  do  perfectly  when  kept 
dry  all  winter,  and  planted  in  the  open  ground  early  in 
March.  The  beauty  of  this  genus  is  all  centered  in  the 
flowers.  (Soil  No.  10.] 

Jxia,  a  genus  containing  about  twenty-five  species  of 
very  free-flowering  bulbs.  /.  monadelpha,  flowers  blush 
and  green.  /.  leucantha,  flowers  large  white.  7.  capa- 
tata,  flowers  in  heads,  of  a  white  and  almost  black  colour. 
/.  cornea,  flowers  orange  and  velvet.  /.  columelaris  is  a 
beautiful  shaded  rosy  purple.  7.  kermoslna,  a  fine  ver- 
milion colour.  7.  squallida,  shaded  rosy  lilac  ;  7.  viridi- 
flbra,  green;  7.  longi/lora,  buff.  The  flower  stems  are 
from  six  to  twenty-four  inches  high.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Lilium.  The  Chinese  species  of  this  emblem  of  purity 
is  everywhere  esteemed,  and  the  fine  Chinese  sorts  are 
very  splendid,  such  as  L.  longi/lora,  L.  longi/lora  suaveo- 
lens,  and  L.  japonicum,  are  all  pure  white ;  L.  lancifolium, 
white,  petals  reflexed ;  L.  lantifblium  punctatum,  white 
spotted  with  rose  ;  L.  lancifolium  speciosum,  rose,  spotted 
with  crimson.  L.  lancifolium  and  its  varieties,  are  all 
delightfully  scented  with  the  odour  of  vanilla ;  noble  spe- 
cimens of  the  family  from  Japan,  growing  from  four  to  six 
feet  high ;  a  full  grown  bulb  producing  from  ten  to  twenty 
flowers,  and  perfectly  hardy  south  of  Philadelphia."  They 
should  be  potted  in  seven  or  eight-inch  pots,  and  kept  in  a 
cool  part  of  the  green-house ;  give  the  pots  at  least  one  inch 
of  drainage.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Oxdlis.  All  the  varieties  and  species  may  now  be 
potted ;  the  whole  are  pretty  spring  flowers,  requiring  to 
be  kept  near  the  glass :  among  the  many  the  following  are 
very  deserving  of  attention :  O.  laxulus,  or  rosucea,  bright 
rose.  O.  Bowii,  bright  rose  red,  a  large  and  profuse 
bloomer,  and  one  of  the  finest.  O.  JJorabunda,  pink ;  a 

Sretty  free-flowering  tuberous  species.  O.  luxula  alba, 
ush  white  ;  O.  multiftora,  profuse  flowering  white.  O. 
versicolor,  striped.  O.  dippii,  lilac,  which  blooms  in 
summer.  O.  caparina,  yellow ;  there  is  also  a  double 
yellow  variety,  though  not  pretty ;  for  a  few  others  see  last 
month.  There  should  be  three  or  four  bulbs  planted  in  a 


Sept."]  GREEN-HOUSE— HOLLAND   BULBS.  289 

five-inch  pot,  giving  very  little  water  till  they  begin  to 
grow.  They  will  all  keep  in  good  pits,  as  well  as  in  the 
green-house.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Sparaxis.  We  are  enraptured  with  this  beautiful  genus 
of  small  bulbs,  closely  allied  to  Ixia,  but  more  varied  in 
colour.  S.  grandiflora  striata  is  striped  with  purple  and 
white.  S.  versicolor,  colours  crimson,  dark  purple,  and 
yellow.  S.  tricolor,  yellow,  black,  and  scarlet.  S.  albida, 
large  white,  with  black  spots.  S.  caelestis,  bluish  purple. 
S.  sulphured,  yellow.  S.  purpiirescens,  purple.  Treat  as 
Oxdlis.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Tritonia,  a  genus  of  about  twenty-five  species.  Few  of 
them  deserve  culture  in  regard  to  their  beauty.  T.  crocata 
is  in  our  collections  as  7.  crocata,  which  is  among  the 
finest,  and  T.  zanthosplla  has  white  flowers,  curiously 
spotted  with  yellow.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

Watsonia,  a  genus  containing  several  species  of  showy 
flowers,  several  of  which  are  in  our  collections  under  the 
genus  Gladiolus,  but  the  most  of  the  species  may  be  dis- 
tinguished from  it  by  their  flat  shell-formed  bulbs.  W.  iri- 
difolia  is  the  largest  of  the  genus,  and  has  flowers  of  a  flesh 
colour.  W.  rosea  is  large  growing,  the  flowers  are  pink, 
and  on  the  stem  in  a  pyramidal  form.  W.  humilis  is  a 
pretty  red  flowering  species.  W.fulgida,  once  Antliolyza 
fidgens,  has  fine  bright  scarlet  flowers.  W.  rubens  is  an 
esteemed  red  flowering  species,  but  scarce.  (Soil  No.  11.) 

These  genera  of  bulbous  plants  are  in  general  cultivation. 
There  are,  no  doubt,  some  splendid  species  that  have  not 
come  under  our  observation,  and  others  which  may  be  ob- 
tained from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  China  that  are 
not  known  in  any  collection,  all  of  which  would  be  per- 
fectly hardy  in  our  southern  states.  Bulbs  generally  re- 
quire very  little  water  until  they  begin  to  grow ;  then  sup- 
ply moderately,  and  keep  them  near  the  light.  Of  the 
Holland  or  Dutch  bulbs,  the  Hyacinth  is  the  favourite  to 
bloom  in  the  green-house.  A  few  of  the  Tulip,  Narcissus, 
Iris  and  Crocus,  may,  for  variety,  be  also  planted  with  any 
other  that  curiosity  may  dictate.  When  these  are  grown  in 
pots,  the  soil  should  be  four-eighths  loam,  two-eighths  leaf 
mould,  one-eighth  decomposed  manure,  one-eighth  sand, 
well  compounded  ;  plant  in  pots  from  five  to  seven  inches, 
keep  the  crown  of  the  bulb  above  the  surface  of  the  soil, 


290  GREEN-HOUSE OF  TAKING  IN,  &C.  [Oct. 

except  of  the  tulip,  which  should  be  covered  two  inches. 
When  these  roots  are  potted,  plunge  them  in  the  garden 
about  three  inches  under  ground ;  mark  out  a  space  suffi- 
cient to  contain  them;  throw  out  the  earth  about  four 
inches  deep,  place  the  pots  therein,  covering  them  with 
earth  to  the  above  depth,  making  it  in  the  form  of  a  bed. 
Leave  a  trench  all  round  to  carry  off  the  rain.  By  so  doing, 
the  bulbs  will  root  strongly,  the  soil  will  be  kept  in  a  con- 
genial state  about  them,  and  they  will  prove  far  superior 
than  if  done  in  the  common  method.  Lift  them  from  this 
bed  on  the  approach  of  frost,  or  not  later  than  the  second 
week  of  December ;  wash  the  pots  and  take  them  into  the 
green-house. 


OCTOBER. 


OF  TAKING  IN  AND  ARRANGING  THE  PLANTS. 

As  observed  in  the  previous  month,  let  the  housing  of 
green-house  plants  now  be  attended  to.  Have  all  in  before 
the  eighth  of  the  month,  except  a  few  of  the  half  hardy 
sorts,  which  may  stand  until  convenient.  Begin  by  taking 
in  all  the  tallest  first,  such  as  Oranges,  Lemons,  Myrtles, 
Oleanders,  &c.  Limes  ought  to  be  kept  in  the  warmest 
part  of  the  house,  otherwise  they  will  throw  their  foliage. 
In. arrangement,  order  is  necessary  to  have  a  good  effect; 
and  in  small  houses  it  ought  to  be  neat  and  regular,  placing 
the  tallest  behind,  and  according  to  their  size  graduating 
the  others  down  to  the  lowest  in  front.  Dispose  the  differ- 
ent sorts  in  varied  order  over  the  house,  making  the  con- 
trast as  striking  as  possible.  Having  the  surface  of  the 
whole  as  even  as  practicable,  with  a  few  of  the  most  con- 
spicuous for  shape  and  beauty  protruding  above  the  mass, 
which  will  much  improve  the  general  appearance,  and 
greatly  add  to  the  effect.  All  succulents  should  be  put 
together.  In  winter  they  will  do  in  a  dark  part  of  the 
house,  where  other  plants  will  not  grow,  studying  to  have 


Oct.']  GREEN-HOUSE— OF  REPOTTING.  291 

the  most  tender  kinds  in  the  warmest  part,  and  giving 
gentle  waterings  every  three  or  four  weeks.  When  all 
are  arranged  give  them  a  proper  syringing,  after  which 
wipe  clean  all  the  stages,  benches,  &c.,  sweeping  out  all 
litter,  and  wash  clean  the  pavement,  which  will  give  to  all 
a  neat  and  becoming  appearance. 

Let  the  waterings  now  be  done  in  the  mornings,  as  often 
and  in  such  quantities  as  will  supply  their  respective  wants, 
examining  the  plants  every  day. 

During  the  continuance  of  mild  weather,  the  circulation 
of  air  must  be  as  free  as  possible,  opening  the  doors  and 
front  and  top  sashes  regularly  over  the  house.  But  ob- 
serve in  frosty  nights  to  keep  all  close  shut.  Be  attentive 
in  clearing  off  decayed  leaves  and  insects. 

Any  plants  of  Lager  straemia,  Sterculia,  Hydrangea, 
Pomegranate,  and  others  equally  hardy,  that  are  decidu- 
ous, may  be  kept  perfectly  in  a  dry,  light,  airy  cellar :  give 
frequent  admissions  of  air,  and  one  or  two  waterings  dur- 
ing winter. 


OF  REPOTTING. 

Anemones.  Where  A.  nemorosa  flbre  pleno  and  A. 
thalictroides  Jlbre  pleno  are  kept  in  pots  in  the  green- 
house, they  should  be  turned  out  of  the  old  earth,  and 
planted  in  fresh  soil.  They  are  both  pretty,  low  growing, 
double  white  flowering  plants,  and  require  a  shaded  situa- 
tion. The  latter  is  now  called  Thalictrum  anemonoides. 
(Soil  No.  11.) 

Daphne  is  a  genus  of  diminutive  shrubs,  mostly  ever- 
greens, of  great  beauty  and  fragrance.  Very  few  species 
of  them  are  in  our  collections.  I),  odora,  frequently  called 
D.  indica,  is  an  esteemed  plant  for  the  delightful  odour  of 
its  flowers,  and  valuable  for  the  period  of  its  flowering, 
being  from  December  to  March,  according  to  the  situation ; 
leaves  scattered,  oblong,  lanceolate  and  smooth;  flowers 
small  white  in  many  flowered  terminal  heads  :  there  is  a 
variety  equally  as  fine  with  marginated  foliage.  D.  odora 
rubra,  the  buds  are  red,  and  the  flowers  rose  white,  of  a 
delightful  spicy  fragrance.  D.  hybrida  is  a  species  in  high 
estimation  at  present  in  Europe,  but  little  known  here, 


292  GREEN-HOUSE OF  REPOTTING.  \_Oti. 

being  only  in  a  few  collections ,  flowers  rosy  purple,  in 
terminal  heads,  and  lateral  bunches  in  great  profusion; 
blooms  from  January  to  May,  and  is  of  a  peculiar  fra- 
grance. D.  oleoides  is  what  may  be  termed  "  ever-bloom 
ing:"  flowers  of  a  lilac  colour;  leaves  elliptic,  lanceolate, 
smooth.  I),  laiireola,  Spurge  laurel ;  J).  pontica,  D.  al- 
pina,  and  2).  Cneorum,  are  all  fine  species,  and  in  Europe 
are  esteemed  ornaments  in  the  shrubbery,  but  they  are  not 
hardy  in  our  vicinity.  (Soil  No.  15.) 

Primula.  There  are  a  few  fine  species  and  varieties 
in  this  genus,  adapted  either  for  the  green-house  or  rooms. 
All  the  species  and  varieties  will  keep  perfectly  well  in  a 
frame,  except  the  China  sorts.  Having  previously  ob- 
served a  few  of  the  other  species  and  varieties,  we  will 
observe  the  treatment  of  these.  P.  sinensis,  now  prseni- 
tens,  known  commonly  as  China  Primrose;  flowers  pink, 
and  in  large  proliferous  umbels,  flowering  almost  through 
the  whole  year,  but  most  profusely  from  January  to  May 
• — there  is  a  double  variety  of  it.  Keep  them  in  the  shade, 
and  be  careful  that  they  are  not  over-watered  during  sum- 
mer. As  the  stems  of  the  plant  become  naked,  at  this  re- 
potting a  few  inches  should  be  taken  off  the  bottom  of  the 
ball,  and  placing  them  in  a  larger  pot,  will  allow  the  stems 
to  be  covered  up  to  the  leaves.  P.  p.  albiflbra,  colour 
pure  white  and  beautiful.  P.  p.  dentiflora.  There  is 
also  a  white  variety  of  this,  both  similar  to  the  former  two, 
only  the  flower  indented  or  fringed.  All  these  require  the 
same  treatment.  As  they  live  only  a  few  years,  many 
individuals,  to  propagate  them,  divide  the  stems,  which  in 
most  cases  will  utterly  destroy  them.  The  best,  and  we 
may  say  the  only  method  to  increase  them  is,  from  seed, 
which  they  produce  every  year.  (Soil  No.  2.) 

Pseonia  moutan:  this  magnificent  plant  and  its  varieties 
are  quite  hardy  with  us,  but  most  of  them  require  the  green- 
house in  northern  latitudes.  These  are  P.  moutan,  Tree 
Paeony ;  the  flower  is  about  five  inches  in  diameter,  of  a 
blush  colour,  and  semi-double.  P.  M.  Banksii  is  the  com- 
mon Tree  Pasony,  and  called  in  our  collection  P.  moutan  ; 
it  has  a  very  large  double  blush  flower,  and  is  much  ad- 
mired. P.  M.  papaverdcea  is  a  most  magnificent  variety  ; 
has  large  single  white  flowers,  with  purple  centres.  P. 
M.  rosea  is  a  splendid  rose-coloured  double  variety,  and  is 


Oct.']  GREEN-HOUSE—CAMELLIAS.  293 

scarce  ;  there  are  also  in  China  several  other  varieties,  such 
as  purple,  scarlet  and  crimson,  which  we  have  not  seen  in 
cultivation,  and  within  these  few  years,  many  varieties 
have  originated  in  Europe,  said  to  be  very  magnificent. 
These  plants  ought  not  to  be  exposed  to  the  sun  while  in 
flower,  as  the  colours  become  degenerated,  and  premature 
decay  follows. 

If  the  Dutch  bulbs  intended  for  flowering  during  winter 
are  not  potted,  have  them  all  done  as  soon  as  possible, 
according  to  directions  given  last  month. 


CAMELLIAS. 

These  plants  ought  to  have  a  thorough  examination,  and 
those  that  were  omitted  in  repotting  before  they  commenced 
growing,  may  be  done  in  the  early  part  of  this  month ;  but 
it  is  not  advisable,  except  the  roots  are  all  round  the  ball  of 
earth,  which  should  be  turned  out  entire.  Examine  all  the 
pots,  stir  up  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and  take  it  out  to  the 
roots,  supplying  its  place  with  fresh  soil.  Destroy  any 
worms  that  may  be  in  the  pots,  as  they  are  very  destruc- 
tive to  the  fibres.  Look  over  the  foliage,  and,  with  a  sponge 
and  water,  clear  it  of  all  dust,  &c.  Frequently  the  buds 
are  too  crowded  on  these  plants,  especially  the  Double 
white  and  Variegated.  In  such  case  pick  off  the  weakest, 
and  where  there  are  two  together,  be  careful  in  cutting,  so 
that  the  remaining  bud  may  not  be  injured. 

This  is  the  best  period  of  the  year  to  make  selections  of 
these,  as  they  now  can  be  transported  hundreds  of  miles 
without  any  material  injury,  if  they  are  judiciously  packed 
in  close  boxes.  In  making  a  choice  of  these,  keep  in  view 
to  have  distinctly  marked  varieties,  including  a  few  of 
those  that  are  esteemed  as  stocks  for  producing  new  kinds, 
which  are  undoubtedly  indispensable,  and  will  reward  the 
cultivator  in  a  few  years  with  new  sorts.  Besides,  it  will 
afford  unbounded  gratification  to  behold  any  of  these  uni- 
versally admired  ornaments  of  the  green-house  improving 
by  our  assistance  and  under  our  immediate  observation. 
There  is  nothing  to  prevent  any  individual  from  producing 
splendid  varieties  in  a  few  years.  Mr.  Hogg  correctly 
observes,  "  It  is  very  probable  in  a  few  years  we  shall  have 
25* 


294  GREEN-HOUSE CAMELLIA  SEEDS. 

as  great  a  variety  of  Camellias  as  there  are  of  Tulips,  Hya- 
cinths, Carnations,  Auriculas,  &c."  This  shrewd  remark 
is  likely  to  be  verified  much  earlier  than  we  anticipated. 

It  has  been  often  said  that  these  plants  are  difficult  of 
cultivation.  This  is  unfounded ;  indeed  they  are  the  reverse 
if  put  in  a  soil  congenial  to  their  nature.  When  highly 
manured  soils  are  given,  which  are  poisonous  to  the  plants, 
sickness  or  death  will  inevitably  ensue ;  but  this  cannot  be 
attributed  to  the  delicacy  of  their  nature.  We  can  unhe- 
sitatingly say,  there  is  no  green-house  plant  more  hardy  or 
easier  of  cultivation,  provided  they  are  kept  at  an  even 
temperature,  say  from  40°  to  45°  during  night,  and  45°  to 
50°  during  day,  and  they  are  equally  so  in  the  parlour,  if 
not  kept  confined  in  a  room  where  there  is  a  continuance 
of  drying  fire  heat,  their  constitution  not  agreeing  with  an 
arid  atmosphere. 


SOWING  CAMELLIA  SEED. 

These  seeds  ripen  generally  during  September  and  Octo- 
ber, and  must  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  ;  plant  them  about 
one  inch  under  ground  into  pots  filled  with  leaf  mould, 
loam,  and  white  sand,  in  equal  portions ;  if  the  pots  after 
sowing  can  be  placed  in  a  hot-house,  they  will  vegetate  in 
about  six  weeks,  and  be  ready  to  pot  into  single  pots  in  Feb- 
ruary. Many  of  them  will  bloom  in  the  second  year ;  but 
if  heat  is  not  accessible,  keep  the  pots  in  the  wannest  part 
of  the  green-house,  and  give  an  occasional  watering,  and 
the  plants  will  appear  some  time  in  May  and  June :  they 
will  be  ready  to  pot  into  single  pots  in  September,  and  after 
doing  so  put  them  into  a  close  frame,  and  shade  from  the 
sun  for  a  few  weeks ;  use  at  this  potting  only  about  one- 
fifth  of  sand. 


NOV.']         GREEN-HOUSE GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS.  295 


NOVEMBER. 


OF  AIR  AND  WATER. 

AIRING  the  house  should  be  strictly  attended  to.  Every 
day  that  there  is  no  frost  it  may  be  admitted  largely,  and 
in  time  of  slight  frosts  in  smaller  portions,  never  keeping 
it  altogether  close  when  the  sun  has  any  effect  on  the  inte- 
rior temperature  of  the  house,  which  should  not  be  allowed 
to  be  higher  than  fifty  degrees. 

Water  must  be  given  in  a  very  sparing  manner.  None 
of  the  plants  are  in  an  active  state  of  vegetation,  conse- 
quently it  will  be  found  that  looking  over  them  thrice  a 
week  and  supplying  their  wants  will  be  sufficient.  Suc- 
culents will  need  a  little  once  in  three  weeks  or  a  month. 
Give  very  moderate  supplies  to  the  Amaryllis  that  are 
dormant,  and  keep  all  these  bulbs  in  the  warmest  part  of 
the  house. 


OF  TENDER  BULBS. 

Where  there  are  tropical  bulbs  in  the  collection,  and 
there  is  not  the  convenience  of  a  hot-house,  they  may  be 
very  well  preserved  by  shaking  them  clear  of  the  soil. 
Dry  them  properly,  and  place  them  in  a  box  of  ve.ry  dry 
sand  or  moss,  and  put  them  in  a  situation  near  the  furnace, 
where  they  will  be  free  from  damp.  These  can  be  potted 
about  the  first  of  April.  Give  no  water  till  they  begin  to 
grow,  then  plant  them  in  the  garden  about  the  middle  of 
May,  where  they  will  flower  during  the  summer  season,  if 
they  are  mature. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

If  there  are  any  of  the  half  hardy  plants  exposed,  have 
them  taken  into  the  house,  or  under  the  requisite  protec- 
tion, in  frames,  pits,  cellars,  &c.  The  autumn  flowering 


296  GREEN-HOUSE—OBSERVATIONS. 

Cape  bulbs  should  be  placed  near  the  glass,  and  free  from 
the  shade  of  other  plants.  Cleanliness  through  the  whole 
house  and  among  the  plants  ought  at  all  times  to  be  at- 
tended to. 


DECEMBER. 

THE  weather  may  probably  be  now  severe,  and  it  is  at 
all  times  advisable  to  keep  the  temperature  as  steady  and 
regular  as  possible.  The  thermometer  should  be  kept  in 
the  centre  of  the  house,  and  free  from  the  effects  of  reflec- 
tion. As  noticed  last  month,  sun  heat  may  be  as  high  as 
50°  in  the  house,  and  would  not  be  hurtful,  but  it  should 
not  continue  so  for  any  considerable  time  without  admis- 
sion of  air.  The  fire  heat  should  not  exceed  45°,  and  never 
below  35°.  It  ought  not  to  continue  at  that  point — 36°  is 
the  lowest  for  a  continuation  that  with  safety  can  be  prac- 
tised, and  where  a  collection  of  Cactii  are  kept,  40°  should 
be  the  lowest.  So  that  no  error  may  occur,  the  tempera- 
ture ought  to  be  known  in  the  coolest  and  warmest  parts 
of  the  house,  and  the  variation  remembered ;  then  what- 
ever part  of  the  house  the  thermometer  is  placed,  a  true 
calculation  of  the  heat  of  the  whole  interior  can  be  made. 
We  would  recommend  to  the  inexperienced  to  keep  the 
thermometer  in  the  coldest  part  of  the  house.  A  green- 
house compactly  and  closely  built,  and  the  lowest  row  of 
top  sash  all  covered  with  shutters,  (which  no  house  ought 
to  be  constructed  without,)  will  seldom  require  artificial 
heat ;  but  by  being  long  kept  close,  the  damp  will  increase. 
In  such  case  give  a  little  fire  heat,  and  admit  air  to  purify 
the  house.  In  fresh  mild  weather  give  liberal  portions  of 
air  all  over  the  house ;  and  though  there  is  a  little  frost, 
while  mild,  and  the  sun  shining,  the  plants  will  be  bene- 
fited by  a  small  portion  of  air  for  the  space  of  an  hour,  or 
even  for  half  of  that  time. . 

Whatever  state  the  weather  may  be  through  the  winter, 
never  keep  the  house  long  shut  up.  Thirty-six  hours 


GREEN-HOUSE BULBOUS  ROOTS.  297 

should  be  the  longest  time  at  once ;  rather  give  a  little  fire 
heat. 

We  are  no  advocates  for  keeping  plants  in  the  dark, 
and  never  think  that  our  plants  are  receiving  justice  if  kept 
longer  in  darkness  than  one  night. 


BULBOUS  ROOTS. 

Those  that  were  plunged  in  the  garden,  if  not  lifted  and 
brought  under  cover,  this  should  now  be  done  without  de- 
lay. Clean  the  pots,  and  stir  up  the  surface  of  the  soil. 
Hyacinths  grow  neatest  by  being  kept  very  close  to  the  top 
glass ;  the  flower  stems  are  thereby  stronger  and  shorter. 
Water  moderately  until  they  begin  to  grow  freely. 


THE 

AMERICAN  FLOWER  GARDEN 

DIRECTORY. 


ROOMS. 

PLANTS  IN  ROOMS. 

To  TREAT  on  the  proper  management  of  plants  in  windows 
is  a  subject  of  considerable  difficulty :  every  genus  requir- 
ing some  variation  both  in  soil,  water  and  general  treat- 
ment. However,  a  great  part  of  the  labour  will  be  abridged 
by  referring  to  these  subjects  in  the  green-house  culture, 
which  is  quite  applicable  to  the  parlour,  green-room,  or 
veranda.  If  the  room  where  the  -plants  are  kept  is  dark 
and  close,  but  few  will  ever  thrive ;  if,  on  the  contrary,  it 
is  light  and  airy,  with  the  windows  in  a  suitable  aspect  to 
receive  the  sun,  plants  will  do  nearly  as  well,  and,  in  some 
instances,  better,  than  in  a  green-house.  This  is  a  well- 
known  fact,  and  may  be  observed  every  day.  We  have 
seen  as  fine  plants  of  Cactus,  Daphne,  Roses,  Geraniums, 
Callas,  Laurestinus,  Carnations,  Azaleas  and  Myrtles, 
grown  in  a  window  from  year  to  year,  as  ever  could  be 
grown  in  a  green-house.  Indeed,  when  there  is  a  failure, 
it  can  be  traced  to  one  of  the  following  three  causes : 

1st.  Want  of  proper  light  and  pure  air  is,  perhaps,  the 
most  essential  point  of  any  to  be  considered ;  for,  however 
well  all  other  requisites  are  attended  to,  a  deficiency  in 
either  of  these  will  cause  the  plants  to  grow  weak,  yellow, 
and  sickly.  Therefore,  have  them  always  placed  as  near 
the  light  as  possible,  and  receive  as  much  air  as  can  be 


ROOMS PLANTS  IN  ROOMS.  JflttJ 

admitted,  when  the  weather  will  allow,  and  occasionally,  in 
fine  days,  carry  them  out  of  doors,  and  give  them  a  sprink- 
ling of  water  all  over. 

2d.  Injurious  watering  does  more  injury  to  plants  in 
rooms  than  many  persons  imagine ;  and  it  is  very  often  to 
be  observed,  that  some  individuals  destroy  all  with  too 
much,  and  others  kill  all  with  too  little  of  that  nourisher  of 
health.  To  prevent  the  soil  ever  having  a  dry  appearance, 
is  an  object  of  great  importance  in  the  estimation  of  many : 
they,  therefore,  water  to  such  an  excess,  that  the  soil  be- 
comes sodden,  and  the  roots  consequently  perish.  Others, 
as  we  have  said,  run  to  the  opposite  extreme,  and  do  not 
give  sufficient  to  sustain  life,  and  this  is  a  more  common 
practice  than  that  of  too  much.  The  best  plan  is,  always 
to  allow  the  mould  in  the  pot  to  have  the  appearance  of 
dryness,  but  never  sufficient  to  make  the  plant  droop  be- 
fore a  supply  of  water  is  given,  which  should  then  be 
copious  and  thoroughly  going  to  the  bottom  of  the  pot ;  but 
always  empty  it  out  of  the  saucer  or  pan  in  which  the  pot 
stands  :  the  water  used  should  always  be  of  about  the 
same  temperature  as  that  in  which  the  plants  grow ;  avoid 
using  it  fresh  from  the  pump. 

3d.  Being  over-potted  in  unsuitable  soil.  This  is  also 
a  crying  evil,  and  large  pots  invariably  given  to  weak  plants, 
with  the  view  of  causing  them  to  grow  ;  but  such  practi- 
tioners are  like  the  unskilful  physician  who  gluts  the 
weakly  stomach  of  his  patient,  only  hastening  on  what 
they  are  trying  to  prevent.  With  weak  plants  the  very 
reverse  should  be  practised,  giving  small  pots  to  encourage 
their  roots  outward  :  whereas,  the  earth  in  a  large  pot  to  a 
small  plant,  with  frequent  waterings,  soon  becomes  sour 
and  stagnated,  and  utterly  obnoxious  to  the  roots  of  even 
the  strongest  growing  plants.  If  the  directions  and  table 
of  soils,  in  this  work,  are  properly  followed  up,  unsuitable 
soils  will  rarely  occur,  especially  when  each  genus  is  sepa- 
rately treated. 

In  fact,  we  have  yet  to  be  convinced  why  all  plants,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  tropical,  and  those  belonging  to 
Ericex  and  Epacridese,  will  not  grow  and  bloom  well  in 
rooms  and  windows.  With  the  following  monthly  instruc- 
tions, and  executing  them  properly,  failure  will  seldom 
occur;  but  where  failure  should  occur,  wre  would  call  par- 


300  ROOMS — WATERING,  &c.  [Jan. 

ticular  attention  to  the  tribe  of  Cactii,  which  are  varied, 
beautiful  and  truly  interesting,  and  grow  admirably  in  dry 
rooms,  with  or  without  full  exposure  to  the  sun,  and  in  any 
temperature  from  45°  to  85°,  requiring  only  small  portions 
of  water  once  a  week  in  winter,  and  twice  or  thrice  a  week 
during  summer:  they  also  only  require  fresh  soil  once  a 
year,  or  even  once  in  two  years,  for  large  plants  will  be 
found  sufficient.  The  variety  now  cultivated  is  truly  asto- 
nishing, and  we  doubt  not,  but  in  a  few  years,  large  horti- 
cultural buildings  will  be  erected  for  their  express  culture ; 
and,  to  the  inexperienced  amateur,  there  is  not  a  family  of 
plants  that  will  give  more  satisfaction,  or,  when  properly 
studied,  will  afford  greater  interest  and  amusement. 


JANUARY. 

PLANTS  that  are  kept  in  rooms  generally  are  such  as  re- 
quire a  medium  temperature,  say  from  40°  to  60°.  Sit- 
ting rooms  or  parlours,  about  this  season,  are,  for  the  most 
part,  heated  from  60°  to  70°,  and  very  seldom  has  the  air 
any  admittance  into  these  apartments  ;  thus  keeping  the 
temperature  from  10°  to  15°  higher  than  the  nature  of  the 
plants  requires,  and  excluding  that  fresh  air  which  is  requi- 
site to  support  a  vegetative  principle.  Therefore,  as  far 
as  practicable,  let  the  plants  be  kept  in  a  room  adjoining 
to  one  where  there  is  fire  heat,  and  the  intervening  door 
can  be  opened  when  desirable.  They  will  admit  sometimes 
of  being  as  low  as  38°. 

If  they  be  constantly  kept  where  there  is  fire,  let  the 
window  be  open  some  inches,  once  a  day,  for  a  few  minutes, 
thereby  making  the  air  of  the  apartment  more  congenial, 
both  for  animal  and  vegetable  nature. 


WATERING,  &c. 

All  that  is  necessary  is  merely  to  keep  the  soil  in  a  moist 
slate,  that  is,  do  not  let  it  get  so  dry  that  you  can  divide  the 


Jan.~]  ROOMS— OP  INSECTS,  &c.  301 

particles  of  earth,  nor  so  wet  that  they  could  be  beat  to  clay. 
The  frequency  of  watering  can  be  best  regulated  by  the 
person  doing  it,  as  it  depends  entirely  upon  the  size  of  the 
pot  or  jar  in  proportion  to  the  plant,  whether  it  is  too  small 
or  too  large,  and  the  situation  it  stands  in,  whether  moist  or 
arid.  Never  allow  any  quantity  of  water  to  stand  in  the 
flats  or  saucers.  This  is  too  frequently  practised  with 
plants  in  general.  Such  as  Cdlla  JEthiopica,  or  African 
Lily,  will  do  well,  as  water  is  its  element;  (like  Sagittaria 
in  this  country;)  the  Hydrangea  and  Hyacinths,  when  in 
a  growing  state,  will  do  admirably  under  such  treatment. 
Many  plants  may  do  well  for  some  time,  but  it  being  so 
contrary  to  their  nature,  causes  premature  decay;  a  fetid 
stagnation  takes  place  at  the  root,  the  foliage  becomes 
yellow,  the  plant  stunted,  and  death  follows. 


OF  CAMELLIA  JAPONICA. 

In  rooms,  the  buds  of  Camellias  will  be  well  swelled, 
and  on  the  double  white  and  double  variegated  sorts  per- 
haps they  will  be  full-blown.  While  in  that  state  the  tem- 
perature should  not  be  below  40° ;  if  lower,  they  will  not 
expand  so  well,  and  the  expanded  petals  will  soon  become 
yellow  and  decay.  If  they  are  where  there  is  fire  heat, 
they  must  have  plenty  of  air  admitted  to  them  every  favour- 
able opportunity,  and  water  freely  given,  or  the  consequence 
will  be,  that  all  the  buds  will  turn  dark  brown,  and  fall  off. 
It  is  generally  the  case,  in  the  treatment  of  these  beautiful 
plants  in  rooms,  that,  through  too  much  intended  care,  they 
are  entirely  destroyed.  They  do  not  agree  with  confined 
air,  and  to  sponge  frequently  will  greatly  promote  the 
health  of  the  plants  and  add  to  the  beauty  of  their  foliage, 
as  it  prevents  the  attacks  of  the  red  spider. 

When  the  flowers  are  expanded,  and  droop, 'tie  tfyem. 
up  neatly,  so  that  the  flower  may  be  shown  to  every  ad- 
vantage. 

OF  INSECTS,  «fec. 

Insects  of  various   kinds  will  be   appearing  on  your 
plants.     For  method  of  destruction,  see  Hot-house,  Jamt- 
36 


302  ROOMS— OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS,  &c.  [Jan. 

ary.  It  will  not  be  agreeable  to  fumigate  the  room  or 
rooms,  or  even  to  have  the  smell  of  tobacco  near  the  house 
from  this  cause. 

Take  a  tub  of  soft  water,  (if  the  day  is  frosty,  it  had 
better  be  done  in  the  house,)  invert  the  plant,  holding  the 
hand,  or  tying  a  piece  of  cloth,  or  any  thing  of  the  kind, 
over  the  soil  in  the  pot,  put  all  the  branches  in  the  water, 
keeping  the  pot  in  the  hand,  drawing  it  to  and  fro  a  few 
times ;  take  it  out  and  shake  it.  If  any  insects  remain, 
take  a  small  fine  brush,  and  brush  them  off,  giving  ano- 
ther dip,  which  will  clean  them  for  the  present.  As  soon 
as  they  appear  again,  repeat  the  process — for  nothing  that 
we  have  found  out,  or  heard  of,  can  totally  extirpate  them. 


OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS  IN  GENERAL. 

If  you  have  retained  any  of  the  Cape  bulbs  from  the  last 
planting,  let  them  be  put  in,  in  the  early  part  of  the  month. 
For  method,  see  September.  Those  that  are  growing  must 
be  kept  very  near  the  light,  that  is,  close  to  the  window,  or 
they  will  not  flourish  to  your  satisfaction.  The  fall-flower- 
ing oxalis  may  be  kept  on  the  stage,  or  any  other  place,  to 
give  room  to  those  that  are  to  flower. 

Hyacinths,  Jonquils,  Narcissus,  Tulips,  &c.,  will  keep 
very  well  in  a  room  where  fire  heat  is  constantly  kept, 
provided  that  they  are  close  to  the  window.  A  succession 
of  these,  as  before  observed,  may  beautify  the  drawing- 
room  from  February  to  April,  by  having  a  reserved  stock, 
in  a  cold  situation,  and  taking  a  few  of  them  every  week 
into  the  warmest  apartment. 

Wherever  any  of  the  bulbs  are  growing,  and  in  the  inte- 
rior of  the  room,  remove  them  close  to  the  light,  observing 
to  turn  the  pots  or  glasses  frequently  to  prevent  them  from 
growing  to  one  side,  and  giving  them  support  as  soon 
as  the  stems  droop,  or  the  head  becomes  pendent.  The 
saucers  under  the  Hyacinth  and  Narcissus  may  stand  with 
water,  and  observe  to  change  the  water  in  the  glasses  once 
or  twice  a  week. 

Everyone  that  has  any  taste  or  refinement  in  their  floral 
undertakings,  will  delight  in  seeing  the  plants  in  perfec- 
tion :  to  have  them  so,  they  must  be  divested  of  every  leaf 


Feb.']  ROOMS— CAMELLIAS.  303 

that  has  the  appearance  of  decaying — let  this  always  he 
attended  to. 


FEBRUARY. 

AT  this  season  the  plants  call  for  the  most  assiduous 
attention.  If  the  stage  has  been  made  according  to  our 
description  in  September,  in  very  cold  nights  it  should  be 
drawn  to  the  centre  of  the  room,  or  at  least  withdrawn 
from  the  window,  observing  every  nights  to  close  the 
window  tight  by  shutters,  or  some  substitute  equally  as 
good.  And,  if  the  temperature  begins  to  fall  below  40°, 
means  should  be  adopted  to  prevent  it  from  lowering, 
either  by  putting  a  fire  in  the  room,  or  opening  any  adjoin- 
ing apartment  where  fire  is  constantly  kept.  This  latter 
method  is  the  best  where  it  is  practicable,  and  ought  to  be 
studied  to  be  made  so. 

Some  very  injudiciously,  in  extreme  frosts,  put  into  the 
room,  where  there  is  no  chimney,  among  the  plants,  a 
furnace  of  charcoal,  in  order  to  heat  the  room.  The  effect 
is,  that  the  foliage  becomes  dark  brown  and  hardened  like, 
and  many  of  the  plants  die,  the  rest  not  recovering  until 
summer. 

Watering  may  be  attended  to  according  to  the  directions 
of  January,  only  observing  that  those  that  begin  to  grow 
will  absorb  a  little  more  than  those  that  are  dormant. 

Roses,  especially  the  daily,  if  kept  in  the  house,  will 
begin  to  show  flower.  Use  means  to  kill  the  green-fly 
that  may  attack  them. 

Hyacinths  and  other  bulbs  must  have  regular  attendance 
in  tying  up,  &c.  Take  care  not  to  tie  them  too  tightly, 
leaving  sufficiency  of  space  for  the  stem  to  expand.  Give 
those  in  the  glasses  their  necessary  supplies,  and  keep 
them  all  near  the  light.  Never  keep  bulbous  roots,  while 
growing,  under  the  shade  of  any  other  plant. 

Camellias,  with  all  their  varied  beauties,  will,  in  this 
month,  make  a  splendid  show.  Adhere  to  the  directions 
given  in  the  previous  month,  and  so  that  new  varieties 


304  ROOMS — REPOTTING.  \_March. 

may  be  obtained,  (see  green-house,  February,  under  the 
head  of  Camellia,}  which  directions  are  equally  applicable 
here.  When  the  flowers  are  full-blown,  and  kept  in  a 
temperature  between  40°  and  50°,  they  will  be  perfect  for 
the  space  of  four,  five,  and  frequently  six  weeks,  and  a 
good  selection  of  healthy  plants  will  continue  to  flower 
from  December  to  April. 

Be  sure  that  there  is  a  little  air  admitted  at  all  favoura- 
ble opportunities. 


MARCH. 

IF  the  plants  in  these  situations  have  been  properly  at- 
tended to  by  admitting  air  at  all  favourable  times,  and  when 
the  apartment  was  below  40°,  a  little  fire  heat  applied  to 
counteract  the  cold,  keeping  the  heat  above  that  degree, 
your  attention  will  be  rewarded  by  the  healthy  appearance 
of  your  plants.  The  weather  by  this  time  has  generally 
become  milder,  so  that  air  may  be  more  freely  admitted, 
especially  from  ten  to  three  o'clock.  They  will  require  a 
more  liberal  supply  of  water,  but  always  avoid  keeping 
them  wet.  Pick  off  all  decayed  leaves,  and  tie  up  any 
straggling  shoots  ;  give  the  pots  a  top-dressing  with  fresh 
soil,  which  will  greatly  invigorate  the  plants,  and  will  allow 
the  fresh  air  to  act  upon  the  roots,  which  is  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal assistants  in  vegetation.  For  those  that  require  shift- 
ing or  repotting,  see  green-house,  March;  the  plants  enu- 
merated there  equally  apply  here,  if  they  are  in  the  collec- 
tion, with  this  difference,  that  well-kept  rooms  are  about  two 
or  three  weeks  earlier  than  the  green-house.  After  the 
end  of  this  month,  where  there  is  a  convenience,  plants 
will  do  better  in  windows  that  look,  to  the  east,  in  which 
the  direct  rays  of  a  hot  sun  are  prevented  from  falling  upon 
them,  arid  the  morning  sun  is  more  congenial  for  plants  in 
this  country  than  the  afternoon  sun.  Where  there  is  any 
dust  on  the  leaves  of  any  of  them,  take  a  sponge  and  water, 
and  make  the  whole  clean  ;  likewise  divest  them  of  all  in- 
sects. The  green-fly  is  perhaps  on  the  roses ;  if  there  are 


March."]  ROOMS — FLOWERING  PLANTS.  305 

no  conveniences  for  fumigating,  wash  them  off  as  previously 
directed.  Where  there  are  only  a  few  plants,  these  pests 
could  be  very  easily  kept  off  by  examining  the  plants  every 
day.  For  the  scaly  insect,  see  January.  If  they  have 
not  been  cleared  off,  get  it  done  directly ;  for  by  the  heat 
of  the  weather  they  will  increase  tenfold. 


FLOWERING  PLANTS. 

Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Narcissus,  Jonquils  and  Crocus, 
will  be  generally  in  flower.  The  former  require  plenty  of 
water,  and  the  saucers  under  the  pots  should  be  constantly 
full  until  they  are  done  blooming.  The  others  need  only 
be  liberally  supplied  at  the  surface  of  the  pot.  Give  them 
neat  green  painted  rods  to  support  their  flower  stems,  and 
keep  them  all  near  the  light.  The  spring  flowering  Oxalis 
will  not  open  except  it  is  exposed  to  the  full  rays  of  the 
sun.  The  Lachenalia  is  greatly  improved  in  colour  with 
exposure  to  the  sun,  though  when  in  flower,  its  beauties 
are  preserved  by  keeping  it  a  little  in  the  shade. 

Primulas,  or  Primrose,  both  Chinese  and  European,  de- 
light in  an  airy  exposure  ;  but  the  sun  destroys  the  beauty 
of  their  flowers,  by  making  the  colours  fade. 

Camellias.  Many  of  them  will  be  in  perfection.  See 
green-house  this  month  for  a  description  of  the  finest  varie- 
ties. Do  not  let  the  sun  shine  upon  the  blooms.  Those 
that  are  done  flowering  will,  in  small  pots,  require  to  be 
repotted. 

The  Hyacinths  that  are  in  glasses  must  be  regularly  sup- 
plied with  water.  The  roots  will  be  very  much  reduced 
by  this  method  ;  therefore,  when  the  bloom  is  over,  if  pos- 
sible, plant  them  in  the  garden,  or  bury  them  in  pots  of 
earth,  to  ripen  and  strengthen  the  bulbs.  They  cannot 
satisfactorily  be  again  flowered  in  glasses,  and,  properly, 
they  ought  not  to  be  allowed  to  bloom  in  the  garden  next 
year.  Those  that  are  done  flowering  in  pots  can  be  set 
aside,  and  the  usual  waterings  gradually  withdrawn.  Treat 
all  other  Dutch  bulbs  in  a  similar  manner. 


26* 


306  ROOMS DIRECTIONS,  &C.  [April. 


APRIL. 

WE  remarked  last  month,  that,  about  this  season,  where 
it  is  convenient,  an  eastern  window  is  more  congenial  to 
plants  than  a  southern.  The  sun  becomes  too  powerful, 
and  the  morning  sun  is  preferable  to  that  of  the  afternoon. 
"West  is  also  preferable  to  south.  Some  keep  their  flower- 
ing plants  in  excellent  order  at  a  north  window.  But  the 
weather  is  so  mild  after  this,  that  there  is  no  difficulty  in 
protecting  and  growing  plants  in  rooms.  They  generally 
suffer  most  from  want  of  air  and  water ;  the  window  must 
be  up  a  few  inches,  or  altogether,  according  to  the  mild- 
ness of  the  day.  And  as  plants  are  liable  to  get  covered 
with  dust  in  these  apartments,  and  not  so  convenient  to  be 
syringed  or  otherwise  cleaned,  take  the  first  opportunity  of 
a  mild  day  to  carry  them  to  a  shady  situation,  and  syringe 
well  with  water  such  as  are  not  in  flower;  or,  for  want  of 
a  syringe,  take  a  watering-pot  with  a  rose  upon  it ;  allow- 
ing them  to  stand  until  they  drip,  when  they  may  be  put 
into  their  respective  situations;  or  expose  them  to  a  shower 
of  rain,  but  avoid  allowing  them  to  be  deluged,  which 
would  be  very  injurious. 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  PLANTS  BROUGHT  PROM  THE 
GREEN-HOUSE. 

Any  plants  that  are  brought  from  the  green-house  during 
the  spring  months  ought  to  be  as  little  exposed  to  the  direct 
rays  of  the  sun  as  possible.  Keep  them  in  airy  situations, 
with  plenty  of  light,  giving  frequent  and  liberal  supplies  of 
water.  Plants  may  be  often  observed  through  our  city 
during  this  month  fully  exposed  in  the  outside  of  a  south 
window,  with  the  blaze  of  a  mid-day  sun  upon  them,  and 
these,  too,  just  come  from  the  temperate  and  damp  atmo- 
sphere of  a  well-regulated  green-house.  Being  thus  placed 
in  an  arid  situation,  scorched  between  the  glass  and  the 
sun,  whose  heat  is  too  powerful  for  them  to  withstand,  the 
transition  is  so  sudden,  that,  however  great  their  beauties 
may  have  appeared,  they  in  a  few  days  become  brown,  the 


April.'}  ROOMS BRINGING  PLANTS  OUT,  &C.  307 

flowers  tarnish  or  decay,  and  the  failure  is  generally  attri- 
buted to  individuals  not  at  all  concerned.  From  this  and 
similar  causes  many  have  drawn  the  unjust  conclusion, 
viz.,  that  "  plants  from  green-houses  are  of  too  delicate  a 
nature  to  be  exposed  in  rooms  or  windows  at  this  early 
season."  But  every  year  gives  more  and  more  proof  to 
the  contrary.  There  are  ladies  in  Philadelphia,  and  those 
not  a  few,  whose  rooms  and  windows  at  this  period  vie 
with  the  finest  of  our  green-houses,  with  respect  to  the 
health,  beauty  and  order  of  their  plants,  and  we  might 
almost  say  in  variety.  Some  of  them  have  got  above  twenty 
kinds  of  Camellias  in  their  collections,  which  afford  a  con- 
tinual beauty  through  the  winter,  with  many  other  desira- 
ble and  equally  valuable  plants.  The  plants  generally  are 
now  growing  pretty  freely,  and  are  not  so  liable  to  suffer 
from  liberal  supplies  of  Avater,  observing  never  to  give  it 
until  the  soil  in  the  pot  is  inclining  to  become  dry,  and  ad- 
ministering it  in  the  evenings  or  mornings. 


FLOWERING  PLANTS. 

Our  directions  last  month  under  this  head  will  equally 
apply  now.  The  Chinese  roses  and  geraniums  that  are 
now  coming  plentifully  into  flower  should  be  kept  near  the 
light,  and  in  airy  exposures,  to  brighten  their  colours, 
otherwise  they  will  be  very  pale  and  sickly. 


BRINGING  PLANTS  OUT  OF  THE  CELLAR,  &c. 

All  or  most  of  the  plants  that  have  been  in  the  cellar  dur- 
ing winter,  such  as  Pomegranates,  Lagerstrsemias,  Hy- 
drangeas, Oleanders,  Sweet-bay,  fyc.,  may  be  brought  out 
to  the  open  air  any  time  about  the  middle  of  the  month.  If 
any  of  them  stand  in  need  of  larger  pots  or  tubs,  have  them 
turned  out,  the  balls  reduced,  and  put  them  in  others  a  little 
larger,  or  where  convenient,  they  may  be  planted  in  the 
ground.  Be  sure  to  keep  the  Hydrangeas  in  shady  situa- 
tions. It  will  not  be  advisable  to  expose  entirely  the 
orange  and  lemon  trees  until  the  end  of  this  or  first  of  next 
month.  Where  there  is  any  scale  or  foulness  of  any 


308  ROOMS — OBSERVATIONS.  \_May. 

kind  collected  on  the  foliage  or  wood,  have  it  cleaned 
directly  before  the  heat  increases  the  one,  and  to  get  clear 
of  the  disagreeable  appearance  of  the  other. 


MAY. 

ALL  the  plants  will  be  able  to  withstand  exposure,  in  the 
general  state  of  the  seasons,  about  the  tenth  of  the  month. 
Begin  about  the  first,  to  take  out  the  hardiest,  such  as  Lau- 
restinus,  Hydrangeas,  Hoses,  Primroses,  Polyanthus, 
&c.,  and  thus  allow  the  others  to  stand  more  free  and  be- 
come hardened  to  exposure.  The  reason  that  plants  are 
so  often  seen  brown,  stunted,  and  almost  half  dead  during 
summer,  is  from  the  exposed  situation  they  are  placed  in, 
with  the  direct  sun  upon  them,  and  too  frequently  from 
being  so  sparingly  watered.  There  are  no  shrubby  plants 
cultivated  in  pots  that  are  benefited  by  full  exposure  to  the 
hot  sun  from  this  period  to  September.  A  north-eastern 
aspect  is  the  best  for  every  plant  except  Cactus,  jlloe,  Me- 
sembryanthemum,  and  such  as  go  under  the  name  of  suc- 
culents, which  may  be  fully  exposed  to  the  sun,  but  not  to 
long  and  continued  rains.  Where  there  only  a  few  plants, 
they  should  be  conveniently  placed,  to  allow  water  from  a 
pot  with  a  rose  mouth  to  be  poured  frequently  over  them, 
which  is  the  best  substitute  for  the  syringe.  Daphne, 
Coronilla,  Fuchsia,  Camellia,  Primrose  and  Polyanthus, 
do  not  agree  with  bright  sun  through  the  summer.  There 
has  been  a  general  question  what  is  the  cause  of  the  death 
of  so  many  of  the  Daphne  odora.  It  may  be  observed, 
that  the  first  place  that  shows  symptoms  of  decay  is  at  the 
surface  of  the  soil,  and  this  takes  place  a  few  weeks  be- 
fore there  are  evident  effects  of  it.  The  cause  is  from  the 
effect  of  heat  or  sun  and  water,  acting  on  the  stem  at  least. 
If  the  soil  is  drawn  in  the  form  of  a  cone  round  the  stem, 
to  throw  ofF  the  water  to  the  edges  of  the  pot,  that  the 
stem  may  be  dry  above  the  roots,  mortification  does  not  take 
place,  neither  do  they  die  prematurely  when  thus  treated. 
For  farther  remarks,  see  green-house  this  month. 


June  and  July.~]      ROOMS — REPOTTING. 


CAPE  BULBS. 

Any  of  these  that  are  done  flowering,  such  as  Ixia,  Oxa- 
lis,  Lachenalia,  &c.,  as  soon  as  the  foliage  begins  to  decay, 
turn  the  pots  on  their  sides,  which  will  ripen  the  roots, 
and,  when  perfectly  dry,  clear  them  from  the  soil,  wrap 
them  up  in  paper,  with  their  names  attached,  and  put  them 
carefully  aside  until  the  time  of  planting. 


REPOTTING. 

Where  it  is  required,  repot  Cactus,  Jlloe,  Mesembrydn- 
themiims,  and  all  other  succulents,  with  any  of  the  Ama- 
ryllis that  are  required  to  he  kept  in  pots  ;•  also,  Cape  Jas- 
mines. For  description  of  the  above,  see  hot-house  and 
green-house  of  this  month,  under  the  same  head. 


JUNE  AND  JULY. 

THE  only  attention  requisite  to  these  plants  is,  in  giving 
water,  keeping  them  from  being  much  exposed  to  either 
sun  or  high  winds,  and  preventing  the  attack  of  insects. 
Water  must  be  regularly  given  every  evening,  when  there 
has  not  been  rain  during  the  day.  Where  they  are  in  a 
growing  state,  they  are  not  liable  at  this  season  of  the  year 
to  suffer  from  too  much  water,  except  in  a  few  instances, 
such  as  the  Lemon-scented  Geranium,  and  those  kinds  that 
are  tuberose-rooted,  as  rfrdens,  Sicolor,  Tristum,  &c., 
which  should  have  moderate  supplies. 

All  the  plants  ought  to  be  turned  round  every  few  weeks 
to  prevent  them  from  growing  to  one  side,  by  the  one  being 
more  dark  than  the  other,  and  keep  those  of  a  straggling 
growth  tied  neatly  to  rods.  Wherever  insects  of  any  de- 
scription appear,  wash  them  off  directly.  Give  regular 
syringings  or  sprinklings  from  the  rose  of  a  watering-pot. 


310  ROOMS OBSERVATIONS. 

Be  particularly  attentive  in  this  respect  to  the  Camellias, 
which  will  keep  the  foliage  in  a  healthy  state. 

If  the  foliage  of  Lilium  longiflorum  or  Japonicum,  has 
decayed,  do  not  water  them  while  dormant,  as  they  are 
easily  injured  by  such  treatment. 


AUGUST. 

FOR  the  kinds  of  plants  that  require  potting,  we  refer  to 
the  green-house  for  this  month.  All  that  are  therein  spe- 
cified are  peculiarly  adapted  for  rooms,  and  we  would 
call  attention  to  the  genus  Cyclamen,  which  has  not  been 
generally  introduced  into  the  collections  of  our  ladies ;  as, 
from  the  character  and  beauty  of  the  flowers,  they  are  very 
attracting  and  highly  deserving  of  culture.  Attend  to  the 
Geraniums  as  there  directed,  and  be  particular  in  having 
them  cut  down  and  repotted,  as  there  fully  described.  The 
Oranges,  Lemons,  Oleanders  and  Myrtles,  that  are  kept  in 
cellars  or  rooms,  should  have  the  same  attention  in  this 
month  as  directed  in  the  green-house,  which  to  repeat 
here,  would  be  occupying  space  unnecessarily. 

Reseda  odordta,  or  Mignonette,  is  one  of  the  most  fra- 
grant annuals.  To  have  it  in  perfection  during  winter, 
the  seed  should  be  sown  about  the  end  of  this  month,  or 
the  beginning  of  next,  into  pots  of  fine  light  earth,  and 
sprinkled  with  water  frequently.  When  it  comes  up,  the 
plants  must  be  thinned  out  or  transplanted:  the  former 
method  is  preferable.  Keep  them  from  frost  during  win- 
ter, and  always  near  the  light. 

This  will  equally  apply  to  the  green-house. 

Cape  bulbs,  such  as  Sparaxis,  Ixia,  Oxalis  and  La- 
chendlia,  should  now  be  planted.  For  method  and  sorts, 
see  green-house  in  August  and  September. 


Sept.~\  ROOMS GENERAL    OBSERVATIONS.  311 


SEPTEMBER. 

WHERE  there  is  a  quantity  of  plants  to  be  kept  in  these 
apartments,  they  should  be  disposed  of  to  the  best  effect, 
and,  at  the  same  time,  in  such  a  manner  as  will  be  most 
effectual  to  their  preservation.  A  stage  of  some  descrip- 
tion is  better  than  a  table,  and,  of  whatever  shape  or  form, 
it  ought  to  be  on  castors,  that  it  may,  in  severe  nights  of 
frost,  be  drawn  to  the  centre  of  the  room.  The  shape  may 
be  either  concave,  a  half  circle,  or  one  square  side.  The 
bottom  step  or  table  should  be  six  inches  wide  and  five 
inches  deep,  keeping  each  successive  step  one  inch  farther 
apart,  to  the  desired  height,  which  may  be  about  six  feet. 
Allowing  the  first  step  to  be  about  two  feet  from  the  floor, 
there  will  be  five  or  six  steps,  which  will  hold  about  fifty 
pots  of  a  common  size.  A  stage  in  the  form  of  half  a  circle 
will  hold  more,  look  the  handsomest,  and  be  most  conve- 
nient. We  have  seen  them  circular,  and,  when  filled, 
appeared  like  a  pyramid.  These  do  very  well,  but  they 
must  be  turned  every  day,  or  the  plants  will  not  grow 
regularly.  With  this  attention  it  is  decidedly  the  best. 
Green  is  the  most  suitable  colour  to  paint  them. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

The  directions  given  for  the  green-house  this  month  are 
equally  applicable  here.  The  late  blooming  Chrysanthe- 
mums are  particularly  adapted  for  rooms.  The  colours  are 
so  varied,  and  many  of  them  are  dwarf-growing,  and  even 
neat  in  their  habit,  especially  the  new  hybrid  sorts. 


312 


ROOMS—  OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS. 


OCTOBER. 

HAVE  a  stage  or  stages,  as  described  last  month,  in  the 
situations  where  they  are  intended  to  remain  all  winter ; 
place  the  plants  on  them  from  the  first  to  the  eighth  of  this 
month,  beginning  with  the  tallest  on  the  top,  graduating  to 
the  bottom.  It  is  desirable  to  place  flats  or  saucers  under 
each,  to  prevent  the  water  from  falling  to  the  floor,  and  the 
water  should  be  emptied  from  the  flats  of  all  except  those 
of  Cdlla  and  Hydrangea.  The  latter,  while  dormant, 
should  be  kept  only  a  little  moist. 

Previous  to  taking  in  the  plants,  they  should  be  divested 
of  every  decayed  leaf,  insects,  and  all  contracted  dust,  hav- 
ing their  shoots  neatly  tied  up,  and  every  one  in  correct 
order.  Every  leaf  of  the  Camellias  ought  to  be  sponged, 
and  the  plants  placed  in  an  airy  exposu're,  and  from  this 
period  till  they  begin  to  grow,  have  them  exposed  to  the 
sun.  If  the  flower  buds  are  too  crowded,  picking  off  the 
weakest  will  preserve  the  remainder  in  greater  perfection, 
and  prevent  them,  in  part,  from  falling  off.  Do  not  on  any 
occasion,  keep  them  in  a  room  where  there  is  much  fluc- 
tuating fire  heat,  as  the  flower  buds  will  not  expand,  except 
they  are  kept  in  an  even  temperature.  See  green-house, 
this  month,  more  largely  on  this  subject. 


OF  BULBOUS  ROOTS. 

Those  that  are  intended  to  flower  in  glasses  should  be 
placed  therein  this  month,  and  kept  in  a  cool  room.  After 
the  fibres  begin  to  push  a  few  shoots,  the  glasses  may  be 
taken  to  the  warmest  apartments  to  cause  them  to  flower 
early.  Bring  a  few  from  the  coldest  to  the  warmest  every 
two  weeks,  and  thus  a  succession  of  bloom  may  be  kept  up 
from  January  to  March.  Hyacinths  and  other  Dutch  bulbs 
should  now  be  planted  in  pots.  See  green-house  for  full 
directions. 

Cape  Bulbs.  All  that  are  unplanted  and  offering  to 
grow,  should  be  put  in  pots  forthwith.  Ample  directions 


NOV.']  ROOMS GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS,  313 

are  given  for  the  planting  of  these  in  the  two  preceding 
months. 

Repot.  Riibits  rosyfolius,  or  Bramble-rose.  They 
should  have  pots  one  size  larger  than  those  they  are  now 
in.  To  make  them  flower  profusely,  when  done  blooming 
in  May,  divide  them  and  put  only  a  few  stems  in  one  pot, 
and  repot  them  in  this  month,  as  above  directed. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

Any  herbaceous  plants  in  the  collection  ought  to  be  set 
aside,  and  the  water  in  part  withheld.  When  the  stems 
and  foliage  are  decayed,  the  plants  may  be  put  in  a  cool 
cellar,  where  they  will  not  be  in  danger  of  frost,  and  be 
permitted  to  remain  there  until  they  begin  to  grow ;  then 
bring  them  to  the  light,  and  treat  as  directed  for  these 
kinds  of  plants.  Deciduous  pknts  may  be  treated  in  a 
similar  manner. 


NOVEMBER. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 

THE  remarks  and  instructions  that  are  given  last  month 
for  these  apartments  will  equally  answer  here.  Where 
the  Dutch  bulbs  were  omitted  to  be  placed  in  glasses,  they 
ought  not  to  be  longer  delayed. 

Oxalis.  The  autumn-flowering  species  will  now  be  in 
bloom,  and  must  be  kept  in  the  sun  to  make  them  expand 
freely.  The  neglect  of  this  is  the  principal  reason  that 
these  do  not  flower  perfectly  in  rooms. 

Camellias.  These  plants,  where  there  is  a  collection, 
flower  from  this  period  till  April ;  and  the  general  desire 
to  be  fully  acquainted  with  the  method  of  their  culture  has 
induced  us  to  be  liberal  in  our  observations  on  every  point 
and  period  through  the  various  stages  of  their  growth  and 
27 


314  ROOMS.  [Dec. 

flowering.  We  will  here  only  remind  the  inquirer,  that  a 
pure  air  and  plenty  of  water,  giving  the  plants  frequent 
sprinklings,  are  the  present  necessities,  which  only  are 
conducive  to  their  perfection. 

Attend  to  the  turning  of  Geraniums  and  other  rapidly 
growing  plants,  that  all  sides  of  them  may  have  an  equal 
share  of  light. 


DECEMBER. 

As  the  trying  season  is  now  approaching  for  all  plants 
that  are  kept  in  rooms,  especially  those  that  are  desired  to 
have  a  flourishing  aspect  through  the  winter,  a  few  general 
instructions  (although  they  may  have  been  previously 
advanced)  will,  perhaps,  be  desirable  to  all  those  who  are 
engaged  in  this  interesting  occupation,  which  forms  a 
luxury  through  the  retired  hours  of  a  winter  season,  and 
with  very  little  attention  many  are  the  beauties  of  vegeta- 
tive nature  that  will  be  developed  to  the  gratification  of 
every  reflecting  mind.  The  following  is  a  routine  of 
every-day  culture : 

Do  not,  at  any  time,  admit  air  (except  for  a  few  mo- 
ments) while  the  thermometer  is  below  35°,  exposed  in 
the  shade. 

In  time  of  very  severe  frosts  the  plants  ought  to  be  with- 
drawn from  the  window  to  the  centre  of  the  room  during 
night. 

Never  give  water  until  the  soil  in  the  pots  is  inclining  to 
become  dry,  except  for  Hyacinths  and  other  Dutch  bulbs 
that  are  in  a  growing  state,  which  must  be  liberally  sup- 
plied. 

Destroy  all  insects  as  soon  as  they  appear:  for  the  means 
of  destruction,  see  next  month. 

Give  a  little  air  every  favourable  opportunity,  (that  is, 
when  the  thermometer  is  above  35°,  exposed  in  the  shade,) 
by  putting  up  the  window  one,  two,  or  three  inches,  accord- 
ing to  the  state  of  the  weather. 

Clean  the  foliage  with  sponge,  and  water  frequently 


Dec.~]  ROOMS — ROSES.  315 

to  remove  all  dust,  &c.  The  water  thus  used  must  not 
exceed  80°,  but  60°  is  preferable. 

Turn  the  plants  frequently,  to  prevent  them  growing  to 
one  side. 

Roses  of  the  daily  sort  may  be  obtained  early  by  having 
them  in  a  warm  room,  that  has  a  south  window,  and  as 
soon  as  they  begin  to  grow,  admit  air  in  small  portions 
about  noon  every  day  that  the  sun  has  any  effect.  Such 
must  be  well  supplied  with  water. 

Bulbs  in  glasses  must  be  supplied  with  fresh  water  at 
least  once  a  week,  in  which  period  they  will  inhale  all  the 
nutritive  gas  that  they  derive  from  that  element,  if  they 
are  in  a  growing  state. 

Camellias,  when  in  bud  and  flower,  should  never  be 
allowed  to  become  the  least  dry,  neither  confined  from 
fresh  air.  The  effects  would  be,  that  the  buds  would  be- 
come stinted,  dry,  and  drop  off.  Therefore,  to  have  these 
in  perfection,  attend  strictly  to  watering.  Give  frequent 
airings,  and  wash  the  leaves  occasionally  with  water. 
Never  keep  them  in  a  room  where  there  is  a  strong  coal 
fire.  The  most  of  Camellias  will  bear  3°  of  frost  without 
the  smaHest  injury,  so  that  they  are  easier  kept  than  Gera- 
niums, except  when  they  are  in  bloom.  In  that  state  frost 
will  destroy  the  flowers.  The  air  of  a  close  cellar  is  also 
destructive  to  the  buds. 

The  reason  that  the  Camellia  does  not  bloom  perfectly 
in  parlours  or  other  heated  rooms,  is  owing  to  their  being 
too  warm  and  arid,  destroying  the  vital  vegetative  princi- 
ple of  the  plant,  and  it  soon  perishes.  There  is  one  way 
in  which  these  plants  can  be  kept  perfect  even  in  such  dry 
places  when  the  recess  in  the  windows  is  of  sufficient 
depth  as  to  allow  plants  to  stand  within  it,  enclosing  them 
from  the  apartment  by  another  sash  :  in  such  a  situation, 
water  could  be  placed,  which  would  keep  the  atmosphere 
between  the  windows  perfectly  moist.  The  verdure  would 
be  rich  and  the  flowers  brilliant;  and  they  would  be  com- 
pletely protected  from  dust — the  whole  would  have  a  very 
pleasing  effect.  Attention  will  be  requisite  to  give  them 
air  during  the  mild  part  of  the  day.  There  are  several 
Camellias  not  proper  for  room  culture ;  those  which  have 
dry  brown  scaly  buds,  are  to  be  avoided,  such  as  anemone- 
fiora,  egertonia,  cleviana,  fulgens,  atrorubens;  also  avoid 


316  ROOMS CAMELLIAS.  \_DeC. 

woodsii,  chandlerii  and  dorsetia,  as  being  difficult  of  ex- 
panding— they  are  so  very  full  of  petals.  Those  most 
proper  for  room  culture,  are  double  white,  conchiflora, 
eclipse,  jimbriata,  florida,  imbricata,  maliflora,  paeoniflora, 
punctata,  Colvillti,  rossii,  speciosa,  variegata  and  incar- 
nata.  Such  will  be  found  to  bloom  freely  and  fully :  many 
others  might  be  added,  but  these  will  give  an  idea  of  those 
sorts  that  agree  best  with  room  culture.  We  cannot  con- 
clude our  subject  without  giving  our  readers  some  hints  on 
the  effect  of  plants  in  household  apartments.  It  has  been 
proved  that  the  leaves  of  plants  absorb  carbonic  acid  gas 
by  their  upper  surfaces,  and  give  out  oxygen  by  their  under 
ones,  thereby  tending  to  purify  the  air  in  as  far  as  animal 
life  is  concerned,  because  carbonic  acid  gas  is  pernicious 
to  animals,  and  oxygen  is  what  that  life  requires.  It  is  in 
the  light,  however,  that  these  operations  are  carried  on,  for 
in  the  dark,  plants  give  out  carbonic.  It  does  not  appear 
that  any  of  the  scentless  products  given  out  by  plants  are 
injurious  to  human  beings,  because  those  who  live  among 
accumulated  plants  are  not  less  healthy  than  others,  but 
rather  enjoy  more  uninterrupted  health,  which,  of  itself,  is 
a  sufficient  recommendation  for  all  to  spend  their  leisure 
moments  in  so  healthful  and  rational  an  employment. 


THE 

AMERICAN  FLOWER  GAEDEN 
DIRECTORY. 


ON  THE  CULTURE  OF  THE  GRAPE. 

WE  are  not  aware  of  any  vegetable  production  that  is 
more  conducive  to  the  luxurious  gratifications  and  plea- 
sures of  man  than  the  vine.  In  fact,  there  is  no  fruit  so 
delicious,  applicable  to  so  many  purposes,  nor  any  that  is 
so  agreeable  to  all  palates:  from  the  remotest  ages  the  vine 
has  been  celebrated  as  the  emblem  of  plenty  and  the 
"  symbol  of  happiness."  Its  quickness  of  growth,  its  great 
fertility,  and  astonishing  vegetative  powers,  with  its  un- 
known age,  has  rendered  it  one  of  the  most  fruitful  bless- 
ings bestowed  by  Providence;  a  blessing  which  almost 
every  inhabitant  of  this  union  may  enjoy,  and  we  see  no 
occasion  to  doubt  but  that  thousands  of  acres  of  our  fertile 
uplands  will  be  converted  into  vineyards,  producing  the 
finest  fruits  and  richest  wines  in  the  world.  Indeed,  with 
very  little  care  and  attention,  our  unsightly  post  and  rail 
fences  may  be  converted  into  grape  espaliers,  and  fine 
wines  produced  at  as  little  cost  as  spruce  beer ;  every  square 
foot  of  surface  might  be  made  to  produce  a  pound  of 
grapes,  and  every  post,  at  least,  round  our  gardens  afford 
ample  space  for  one  vine,  which  would  yearly  produce 
from  three  to  nine  pounds  of  fruit,  fit  either  for  the  table  or 
the  wine-press.  But  the  small  space  allotted  in  this  volume 
will  not  allow  us  to  dilate  on  this  fruitful  subject.  Our 
object  is  to  give  a  few  hints  on  the  aspect,  soil,  propaga- 
tion, and  culture  of  the  vine,  so  as  to  produce  an  extra 
27* 


318  ON  SOIL. 

crop  in  the  smallest  given  space.     We  will  then  consider, 
first,  the  ' 


ASPECT. 

As  our  climate  gives  us  plenty  of  heat  for  the  matura- 
tion of  the  vine,  we  have,  therefore,  more  scope  in  aspect 
than  any  other  country.  However,  the  most  preferable  is 
one  from  south  to  east,  or  west.  Shelter  from  high  and 
often  recurring  winds  is  a  prime  consideration.  Our 
western  and  south-western  gusts  of  wind  are  very  de- 
structive to  the  vine  when  it  is  in  the  full  vigour  of 
growth :  it  dissipates  all  the  accumulated  secretions  of  the 
foliage,  and  closes  its  pores,  thereby  totally  deranging  the 
vital  functions  of  the  plant,  which  (although  in  the  height 
of  the  growing  season)  has  been  known  to  be  suspended 
for  weeks.  There  are  frequently  many  local  circum- 
stances affecting  the  shelter  of  walls  and  other  buildings, 
which,  where  they  exist,  must  determine  the  best  aspect 
for  training  the  vine.  But  if  there  be  no  such  local  cir- 
cumstances, we  have  no  hesitation  in  stating  that  an  east- 
ern aspect  is  the  best.  On  such  the  sun  shines  with  full 
force  during  the  morning,  at  which  time  there  is  something 
highly  favourable  to  vegetation  in  his  rays,  which  seems  to 
stimulate  the  energies  of  plants  in  an  extraordinary  degree, 
and  to  excite  them  to  a  vigorous  exertion  of  all  the  func- 
tions appertaining  to  vegetable  life. 


ON  SOIL. 

The  soil  most  congenial  to  the  growth  of  the  vine  and 
the  maturity  of  its  fruit  is  a  rich,  sandy,  turfy  loam,  about 
two  feet  deep,  on  a  dry,  gravelly,  rocky,  or  sandy  bottom ; 
the  roots  run  with  avidity  into  such  sub-soils,  lying  secure 
from  the  excess  of  moisture,  which  always  accumulates  in 
clayey  or  compact  soils.  The  excrementitious  matter  dis- 
charged from  the  roots  of  a  vine  is  very  great,  and  if  this 
be  given  out  in  close  and  retentive  soils,  they  quickly 
become  deleterious,  and  a  languid  and  diseased  vegetation 
ensues:  this  is  the  great  reason  that  so  many  failures  exist. 


ON  SOIL.  319 

It  may  hence  be  inferred  that  vines  will  not  thrive  in  a 
cold  wet  soil,  nor  composed  of  stiff  clay,  which  is  easily 
accounted  for  from  the  fact  that  they  delight  only  in  soils 
easily  rendered  dry  by  evaporation,  and  free  from  excess 
of  moisture,  and  are  always  more  warm,  which  is  so  genial 
to  the  growth  of  this  plant.  To  elucidate  this,  we  can 
record  an  instance  that  occurred  a  few  years  ago  in  this 
vicinity : — A  vine  border  was  dug  out  to  the  depth  of  three 
feet  and  a  half,  in  a  cold  retentive  clay  soil ;  twenty  inches 
of  stone,  brick,  and  lime  rubbish  were  put  in  the  bottom, 
and  the  remainder  filled  up  with  good  compost  for  the 
vines,  in  which  they  were  planted,  and  grew  well  for  two 
years,  and  produced  some  fruit;  finally,  they  languished, 
and  almost  died,  and  it  was  at  once  pronounced  that  fine 
foreign  grapes  would  not  do  in  this  country.  But,  on  exa- 
mining the  roots  of  the  plants,  it  was  discovered  that  they 
were  rotten  from  the  excess  of  moisture  which  was  retained 
in  this  pit ;  for  though  it  had  been  partially  filled  with  a 
dry  bottom,  no  provision  was  made  to  carry  off  the  water, 
therefore  it  proved  to  be  a  complete  water  pail :  a  drain 
was  necessarily  dug  to  th^  full  depth  to  carry  off  the  water, 
and  the  soil  generally  renewed ;  the  vines  were  cut  to 
within  two  feet  of  the  ground ;  they  now  (four  years  after 
the  operation)  grow  luxuriantly,  and  produce  abundant 
crops  every  year.  Therefore,  if  the  sub-soil  is  not  natu- 
rally dry,  it  must  be  made  so  by  draining,  which  is  the 
basis  of  the  work,  filling  up  the  bottom  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  dry  materials,  such  as  stones  broken  moderately 
small,  brick-bats,  lumps  of  lime  rubbish,  oyster-shells,  &c., 
which  will  keep  them  dry  and  warm  by  the  free  admis- 
sion of  air  and  solar  heat,  and  to  admit  of  heavy  rains  pass- 
ing quickly  through  without  being  retained  sufficiently 
long  to  saturate  the  roots  or  injure  the  tender  extremities; 
having  thus  furnished  a  dry  bottom,  cover  to  the  desired 
height  with  turf  taken  about  three  inches  deep  from  a  rich 
pasture ;  and  to  every  four  loads  of  turf  add  one  load  of 
thoroughly  decomposed  manure,  at  least  one  year  old,  in- 
terspersing it  with  bones  of  any  description,  oyster-shells, 
or  any  other  enriching  material  that  undergoes  slow  de- 
composition: the  whole  must  be  repeatedly  turned,  and 
allowed  to  settle  before  the  vines  are  planted.  Extreme 
caution  has  to  be  exercised  in  administering  bone-dust, 


320  ON  SOIL. 

slaughter-house  offal,  and  other  over-rich  manures,  espe- 
cially if  the  vines  are  to  be  planted  the  same  or  even  the 
following  season.  Soils  glutted  with  instant  enriching 
manures  are  destructive  to  the  vine.  The  surface  of  the 
border  should  have  a  gentle  descent  from  the  wall  or  fence : 
never  crop  your  vine  borders,  and  be  careful  of  treading 
much  upon  them ;  a  board  trellis  should  be  laid  for  walk- 
ing upon  when  the  operation  of  pruning,  tying,  &c.,  takes 
place,  which  is  almost  daily  during  summer.  The  border, 
after  it  has  been  once  made,  ought  never  to  be  stirred, 
except  at  intervals,  to  keep  it  from  becoming  hard  and 
impervious  to  heat  or  moisture ;  and,  when  necessary,  it 
should  only  be  forked  up  about  two  inches  deep,  at  all 
times  taking  care  not  to  injure  the  roots. 

In  dry  sandy  soils  all  that  is  wanted  for  the  full  perfec- 
tion of  the  grape  is,  to  take  out  about  one  foot  of  the  poorest 
of  the  ground,  and  replace  it  by  turf  from  a  meadow,  adding 
thereto  a  portion  of  well-decomposed  manure.  Sweepings 
from  turnpike  roads,  where  there  is  much  travel,  is  an  ex- 
cellent article  for  incorporating  with  such  soils ;  it  is  of  an 
enriching  quality,  its  component  parts  consisting  chiefly  of 
sand,  pulverized  stones,  dung,  and  urine,  which  is  of  a 
more  lasting  nature  than  can  be  found  in  almost  any  other 
compost ;  it  ought  to  be  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the 
other  soil  soon  after  it  has  been  collected  from  the  road,  as 
all  its  valuable  qualities  will  then  be  entirely  preserved. 
The  foregoing  remarks  in  the  preparation  of  soil,  if  fol- 
lowed, will  ensure  the  luxuriant  growth  of  vines  and  the 
yearly  production  of  fine  crops  of  grapes,  and,  when  cir- 
cumstances will  permit,  should  be  practically  adopted  at 
all  times.  But  it  must  not  be  supposed  that  vines  will  not 
grow  and  mature  fine  crops  unless  thus  encouraged  in 
extra  prepared  soils.  Such  is  not  the  fact,  for  vines  will 
do  well  in  any  soil  that  is  not  adhesive,  and  has  a  dry- 
bottom  ;  but  they  grow  finer  and  bear  greater  crops  of  fruit 
within  a  given  space  of  time,  when  planted  in  ground  that 
has  been  properly  prepared  for  their  reception.  For  in- 
stance, if  two  cuttings  be  planted,  the  one  in  a  soil  fully- 
prepared,  and  the  other  in  that  of  the  latter  description,  it 
will  be  found  at  the  end  of  three  years  that  the  vine  in  the 
former  soil  is  double  the  size  of  the  latter ;  consequently, 
the  strong  vine  will  produce  two-thirds  more  fruit,  and  of 


ON  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  VINES.  321 

a  better  quality,  than  the  weak  vine.  This  difference 
occurring  every  year,  and  even  greater  as  the  age  in- 
creases, is  sufficient  to  amply  repay  for  all  the  trouble  and 
expense  incurred  in  making  a  suitable  compost.  How- 
ever, the  disadvantage  of  a  poor  soil  may  in  part  be  com- 
pensated for  by  planting  the  vines  closer  together.  If, 
indeed,  vines  could  not  be  planted  with  any  prospect  of 
success,  except  in  borders  purposely  prepared,  only  a  very 
small  quantity  of  grapes  would  be  grown,  compared  with 
what  this  rich  and  fertile  country  is  capable  of  producing. 
Many  instances  occur  in  towns  and  cities,  around  dwell- 
ings and  other  descriptions  of  brick  and  stone  erections, 
which  present  very  favourable  situations  for  the  training  of 
vines,  but  which,  nevertheless,  are  so  situated  as  to  admit 
of  little  or  no  soil  being  placed  at  their  roots.  In  such 
cases,  if  an  opening  can  be  made,  twenty  inches  deep,  and 
as  many  wide,  it  will  be  sufficient  to  admit  of  the  roots  of 
a  young  vine,  which  will  support  it  till  its  rambling  roots 
have  found  their  way  under  the  pavement,  or  along  the 
walls  to  some  more  distant  nourishment ;  if  a  wider  space 
can  be  made,  it  will,  of  course,  be  better:  loosen  the  sides 
and  bottom  as  much  as  possible,  and  fill  up  with  compost, 
as  previously  directed,  and  therein  plant  the  vine.  The 
surface  covering,  whether  of  brick  or  stone,  may  be  re- 
placed after  the  soil  has  fully  settled,  leaving  a  hole  about 
six  inches  square  to  allow  the  stem  of  the  plant  to  swell  in 
its  future  growth.  The  roots  soon  find  their  way  under 
the  paving  or  along  the  foundation  walls,  and,  indeed,  in 
every  direction  in  search  after  food,  and  will  extract  nou- 
rishment from  sources  apparently  barren.  The  fact  is, 
that  the  roots  of  the  vine  possess  an  astonishing  power  of 
adapting  themselves  to  any  situation  in  which  they  may 
be  planted,  provided  it  be  a  dry  one. 


ON  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  VINES. 

Vines  are  generally  propagated  in  the  open  ground  by 
cuttings  and  layers. 

By  cuttings.  At  the  general  pruning  provide  cuttings 
or  the  preceding  summer's  growth ;  choose  such  as  are  of 
a  medium  size,  well  ripened,  and  short-jointed,  cut  them 


322  ON  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  VINES. 

into  lengths  of  about  eighteen  inches  each,  leaving  at  the 
ends  not  less  than  two  inches  of  wood  to  protect  the  eye, 
place  these  temporary  cuttings  about  three-fourths  of  their 
length  in  the  ground,  in  a  warm  and  sheltered  situation, 
where  they  can  be  protected  with  a  little  litter  from  the 
severity  of  frost  during  winter.  The  best  time  for  planting 
them  is  about  the  25th  of  March  in  this  latitude,  earlier  or 
later  if  more  south  or  north :  if  intended  to  plant  the  cut- 
ting where  the  plant  is  to  remain,  which  is  the  most  pre- 
ferable method,  prepare  them  in  the  following  manner : 

By  cutting  them  into  lengths  of  tree  buds  each,  and  letting 
the  uppermost  bud  have  an  inch  of  blank  wood  remaining 
to  protect  it,  the  extremity  of  which  must  be  cut  in  a  slant- 
ing manner,  and  the  slanting  side  opposite  to  the  buds,  to 
throw  off  the  moisture:  the  end  that  is  to  be  inserted  in  the 
ground  cut  transversely  just  under  the  bud,  and  the  cut- 
ting will  be  complete ;  the  cuttings  being  thus  prepared, 
plant  them  forthwith ;  if  intended  to  remain,  place  two  in 
each  space,  inserting  them  in  the  ground  so  as  the  second 
eye  may  be  about  half  an  inch  under  the  soil,  which  must 
be  pressed  close,  when  it  will,  most  frequently,  be  found 
that  the  eye  thus  placed  will  grow  first  and  strongest,  when 
the  upper  eye  can  be  displaced ;  if  both  the  cuttings  grow, 
cut  off  the  weakest.  During  May,  June,  and  July,  care 
must  be  taken  to  keep  the  cuttings  constantly  moist ;  soap- 
suds or  drainings  of  the  dung-hill  can  be  used  for  the  pur- 
pose once  a  week,  but  not  oftener,  using  rain  or  river  water 
for  general  waterings.  If  the  soil  should  sink  down  and 
leave  the  buds  higher  than  above  mentioned,  more  must  be 
added  to  keep  them  as  directed.  To  prevent  the  ground 
from  becoming  hard  by  repeated  waterings,  and  also  to 
retain  a  regular  moisture  about  the  cutting,  cover  the  soil 
with  shells,  litter,  or  any  such  substitute,  which  will  greatly 
promote  the  vegetating  powers  of  the  scion.  As  soon  as 
they  have  made  shoots  six  inches  long,  water  may  be  more 
sparingly  applied,  and  the  shoots  must  be  carefully  tied  to 
some  support,  and  their  tendrils  and  lateral  shoots  should 
be  cut  off,  the  latter  to  within  one  eye  of  the  main  stem : 
about  the  first  of  November  cut  every  plant  down  to  within 
two  eyes  of  the  cutting.  But  if  the  plants  are  intended  to 
be  removed,  they  should  be  planted  in  such  a  situation  as 
to  be  shaded  from  the  mid-day  sun ;  from  four  to  six  hours 


ON  THE  PROPAGATION  OF  VINES.  323 

a  day  of  sun  is  quite  sufficient.  A  spot  sheltered  from 
severe  winds  is  also  most  desirable.  When  transplanted, 
be  careful  of  their  small  roots,  and  choose  a  mild  day,  (about 
the  first  of  April,  or  earlier,  is  a  good  season,)  for  the  ope- 
ration. 

By  layers.  This  is  a  very  expeditious  mode  of  growing 
young  vines,  provided  the  shoots  be  laid  in  pots ;  but  vines 
raised  from  shoots,  laid  down  in  the  open  ground,  should 
be  avoided  as  the  worst  of  all  plants :  they  make  but  few 
roots,  and,  when  removed,  these  nearly  all  die  off  from 
being  cut  at  the  extremities  in  lifting,  and  the  second  year 
of  such  a  plant  is  not  much  in  advance  of  a  good  cutting. 
To  grow  vines  by  laying  the  shoots  in  pots,  the  following 
directions,  if  followed,  will  ensure  success :  For  each  in- 
tended layer  procure  a  seven-inch  pot,  or  a  small  box  of  a 
similar,  or  even  larger  size,  prepare  some  fine  rich  sandy 
mould,  containing  a  great  portion  of  decayed  leaves,  then 
take  the  shoot  and  run  it  through  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of 
the  pot  till  you  come  to  the  last  three  buds;  close  up  the 
aperture  round  the  shoot  with  moss,  cotton,  or  any  elastic 
substance,  and  then  fill  up  the  pot  or  box  to  within  half  an 
inch  of  the  top  with  the  prepared  soil,  having  previously 
secured  it  in  a  safe  and  level  position ;  and,  where  it  can 
be  conveniently  watered  during  the  season,  this  must  be 
attended  to  at  least  once  a  day.  When  there  is  not  time 
for  this  attendance,  the  pot  or  box  should  be  plunged  under 
ground,  and  the  layer  placed  thereon,  and  firmly  secured, 
so  that  its  own  force  will  not  raise  it  up,  then  cover  up  the 
shoots  at  least  three  inches,  leaving  space  for  occasionally 
holding  some  liquid  nourishment.  Shoots  may  be  thus  laid 
any  time  from  the  first  of  March  to  the  first  of  April.  It 
must  be  clearly  understood  that  the  success  of  the  opera- 
tion depends  entirely  on  keeping  the  mould  in  the  pots 
moist,  treating  it  as  directed  for  watering  cuttings.  The 
plant  may  be  separated  from  the  vine  about  the  first  of 
September,  and  instantly  planted  into  its  desired  locality, 
or  put  into  a  larger  vessel,  and  there  remain  till  planting 
season  ;  the  following  year  displace  the  tendrils  and  laterals 
as  directed  for  cuttings,  and  in  pruning  cut  it  down  to  with- 
in three  eyes  of  the  ground.  We  may  safely  assert,  that 
it  is  a  species  of  strangling  to  a  vine  in  the  first  three  years 
of  its  growth,  to  be  sparing  of  the  knife,  allowing,  at  once, 


324  ERECTIONS,  &C. 

small  weak  shoots  to  be  laid  in  to  form  in  a  day  (compara- 
tively) a  plant  that  is  expected  to  withstand  the  vicissitude 
of  ages,  and  produce  yearly  its  quantum  of  fruit ;  but  more 
of  this  when  treating  of  pruning. 

By  eyes.  This  is  our  most  favourite  method  of  propa- 
gating plants  of  this  most  valuable  fruit.  Early  in  the 
month  of  March  we  cut  the  shoots  into  eyes,  leaving  about 
an  inch  of  wood  on  each  extremity,  and  plant  those  with 
their  eyes  uppermost  into  pots,  and  place  them  in  a  hot  or 
cold  frame,  prepared  for  the  purpose  ;  plants  from  a  single 
eye  may  easily  be  made  to  grow  twelve  feet  in  one  season, 
by  constant  repotting  and  nourishing.  The  plants  thus 
growing  are  decidedly  the  best  rooted,  forming  more  capil- 
lary fibres ;  consequently  more  nutritious  support  to  the 
vine  is  absorbed  in  the  same  given  period  of  time ;  they 
also  form  shorter  joints,  and  are  capable  of  producing  more 
fruit  on  a  plant  of  the  same  size.  We  are  aware  that  some 
start  at  this  idea,  and  say  that  in  a  few  years  it  is  not 
observed.  It  reminds  us  very  much  of  the  son  of  the 
"Isle  of  the  Ocean,"  when  asked  how  old  his  brother  was, 
replied,  he  was  so  much,  but  in  two  years  he  would  be 
"the  same  age."  Nevertheless,  this  method  of  propagat- 
ing may  not  be  generally  accessible,  the  former  two  plans 
being  at  the  command  of  every  one. 


ON  ERECTIONS  FOR  THE  SUPPORT  AND  PROTECTION 
OF  THE  VINE  IN  OUT-DOOR  CULTURE. 

To  limit  the  proper  height  for  training  grapes  would  be 
a  preposterous  idea,  for  they  can  be  perfectly  cultivated  in 
this  country  on  any  height  from  four  to  forty  feet :  indeed, 
on  a  wall  of  the  former,  we  have  thirty  sorts  of  grapes 
growing  luxuriantly,  and  fruiting  in  the  most  profuse 
manner.  Some  of  the  vines,  four  years  old,  which  have 
produced  from  six  to  nine  bunches  of  fine  fruit,  which 
only  occupy,  after  pruning,  a  space  of  about  eighteen 
inches  square. 

Walls  of  brick  are  decidedly  the  most  preferable  for  the 
perfection  of  the  grape  ;  and  if  they  be  built  for  the  express 
purpose,  the  most  judicious  distribution  of  materials  would 
be  in  the  erection  of  several  low  walls,  not  more  than  seven 


ERECTIONS,  &C.  325 

feet  high.  For  the  purpose  of  pruning,  training,  &c.,  walls 
of  this  height  are  far  preferable  to  those  of  a  greater, 
and  if  built  to  run  directly  south  or  north,  the  entire  sur- 
face of  both  sides  may  be  judiciously  covered.  The 
eastern  aspect  would  render  a  sure  and  abundant  early 
crop  :  those  on  the  western  side  would  not  be  so  productive, 
and  more  liable  to  be  affected  by  our  frequent  severe  west- 
erly gales.  When  in  bloom,  or  when  the  fruit  is  ripening, 
would  be  the  period  that  they  would  be  most  liable  to  suffer. 
However,  as  they  would  frequently  produce  a  full  crop,  an 
astonishing  quantity  of  fruit  may  be  produced  on  a  very 
small  space  of  ground  by  erecting  walls  of  this  description, 
built  parallel  to,  and  not  far  distant  from,  each  other — say, 
at  the  nearest,  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet.  If  from 
local  causes  bricks  cannot  be  had,  a  good  substitute  will  be 
found  in  strong  ranges  of  plank  fencing  made  of  well-sea- 
soned wood,  and  closely  jointed,  having  three  or  four  good 
coats  of  oil  paint :  grapes  raised  in  this  way  will  be  nowise 
inferior  to  those  produced  on  walls  :  indeed  we  would  pre- 
fer such  to  any  wall  of  stone  that  could  be  erected,  it  being 
of  a  more  even  surface  and  more  convenient  for  training, 
and  not  giving  harbour  for  insects,  &c.  A  very  great 
advantage  will  be  derived  by  having  a  coping  on  the  wall 
or  fence,  projecting  eight  or  ten  inches,  turning  on  a  pivot, 
so  as  it  can  be  used  in  time  of  heavy  dashing  rains  while 
the  vines  are  in  bloom,  or  when  the  fruit  is  ripening,  which 
are  the  only  periods  that  it  will  be  of  actual  service,  for  all 
dews  and  light  rains  are  indispensable  to  the  health  and 
maturity  of  the  vine ;  and  if  the  fence  is  north  and  south, 
the  light  and  heat  excluded  by  it  would  be  a  serious  draw- 
back on  the  ripening  of  the  fruit.  We  say,  therefore,  if  it 
is  not  on  a  pivot,  the  plants  will  be  better  without  it,  unless 
it  have  only  one  or  two  inches  of  a  projection,  the  dripping 
from  the  coping  will  fall  on  the  foliage,  and  that  will  carry  it 
entirely  free  from  the  fruit ;  but  we  urge  the  great  utility  and 
even  necessity  for  movable  coping.  Espaliers  or  trellises 
are  in  common  use  for  the  training  of  the  vine,  also  arbours : 
the  former  suit  admirably  in  small  gardens  where  it  is  not 
desirable  to  go  to  expense,  but  the  latter  should  be  avoided 
as  the  worst  possible  construction  for  growing  grapes ;  the 
interior  is  always  filled  with  a  current  of  cold  air  highly 
prejudicial  to  the  maturity  of  fine  fruits;  but  for  coarse 
'  28 


336  ON  TRANSPLANTING  THE  VINE. 

grapes  it  is  a  matter  of  little  consequence,  as  they  are  at 
best  only  fit  for  producing  shade.  Upright  trellises  in  city 
gardens  mav  be  made  eight  feet  high,  with  the  spars  not 
more  than  six  inches  apart,  and  these  should  be  made  of 
the  very  best  materials,  and  supported  every  three,  feet  by 
uprights :  strong  wire  makes  an  elegant  substitute  for  the 
cross  slats,  which,  if  kept  well  painted,  will  not  suffer  by 
corrosion.  We  have  seen  an  elegant  new  erection  by  a 
tasteful  grape  amateur,  and  think  it  will  answer  a  very 
good  purpose  :  it  consists  of  an  upright  double  trellis,  about 
one  foot  wide  at  the  bottom,  tapering  to  one  bar  at  the  top, 
running  north  and  south,  which  is  about  eight  feet  high  ; 
from  which,  on  each  side,  there  is  fixed  a  small  projecting 
sash  at  an  angle  of  about  48°,  which  keeps  the  vines  per- 
fectly secure  from  deluging  rains,  and  even  concentrates 
more  solar  heat  for  their  maturity.  The  whole  has  a  light 
and  rather  imposing  effect ;  its  practical  utility  remains  to 
be  tried,  as  it  is  but  lately  finished :  there  is  no  apparent 
doubt  but  it  will  prove  very  beneficial  in  its  results. 


ON  TRANSPLANTING  THE  VINE. 

The  best  period  of  the  year  for  transplanting  is  during 
the  months  of  October  or  March.  The  longer  its  removal 
is  postponed  after  these  periods,  the  more  injurious  will  be 
the  effects  of  transplanting.  Admitting  the  ground  has 
been  prepared  according  to  directions  formerly  given,  dig 
a  hole  about  twenty  inches  deep,  and  as  wide  as  will  admit 
of  the  roots,  if  possible,  to  their  full  extension,  without  crip- 
pling in  any  manner.  If  any  of  them  are  injured  in  lift- 
ing, they  must  be  cut  back  to  soundness :  fill  up  the  hole 
to  within  twelve  inches  of  the  top,  set  the  vine  in  the  hole 
thus  made,  with  its  stem  about  six  inches  from  the  wall  or 
fence,  and  let  the  plant  be  cut  even  with  the  ground,  or, 
where  there  is  plenty  of  space,  and  the  plant  two  or  more 
feet  long,  plant  the  root  at  a  distance  from  where  the  stem 
of  the  vine  is  desired,  and  then  disbud  the  young  shoot, 
except  the  uppermost  three,  lay  it  down  its  full  length, 
bringing  the  terminal  buds  to  where  the  plant  is  wanted; 
by  this  method  the  whole  extent  of  the  shoot  will  make 
roots,  and  be  of  infinite  service  for  the  farther  growth  and 


ON  PRUNING.  337 

,     * 

support  of  the  plant.  When  the  eyes  thus  left  grow, 
displace  the  weakest  two,  leaving  the  strongest  for  the 
permanent  plant.  We  have  seen  old  vines  laid  down  in. 
this  manner  for  the  distance  of  thirty  feet,  and,  in  two 
years,  formed  plants  of  most  astonishing  vigour  and  pro- 
duction. If  the  vine  has  been  grown  in  a  pot,  shake  the 
ball  of  earth  from  the  roots,  among  which  place,  with  care, 
new  and  fresh  soil,  taking  the  plant  and  giving  it  several 
shakes  to  settle  it  well  about  the  roots,  which  will  encou- 
rage the  plant  to  put  forth  new  roots  for  its  farther  support. 
Transplanting  should  always  be  done  in  dry  and  mild 
weather,  and  when  the  soil  is  mellow  and  free.  During 
the  removal  the  roots  must  be  carefully  kept  from  expo- 
sure ;  the  atmosphere  would  dry  up  their  tender  extremi- 
ties, and  cause  much  injury ;  and,  when  vines  are  brought 
from  a  distance,  this  precaution  ought  to  be  carefully  put 
in  practice.  Its  first  season's  growth  should  be  confined 
to  one  stem  only,  carefully  cutting  off  all  lateral  shoots 
within  one  eye  of  the  main  shoot,  as  directed  on  the  sub- 
ject of  propagation. 


ON  PRUNING. 

The  first  year's  growth  of  a  transplanted  vine  should,  in 
November,  be  cut  down  within  four  inches  of  the  ground, 
and,  on  the  appearance,  cover  the  plant  with  about  three 
inches  of  stable  litter,  allowing  it  to  remain  in  this  state  till 
the  middle  of  March.  The  plant  will  now  push  strongly, 
and  two  of  the  best  shoots  should  be  trained  their  full  length 
during  summer,  carefully  nipping  off  tendrils  and  laterals, 
and,  at  all  times,  securing  the  shoots  from  the  effects  of 
high  winds.  If  walls  are  used  for  training,  there  should 
be  slats  fixed  about  one  inch  from  the  wall  to  tie  the  shoots 
thereto,  using  soft  material  for  the  purpose  of  tying :  if  the 
vines  should  show  fruit,  cut  it  off. 

Having  the  previous  season  retained  two  well-grown 
shoots  from  near  the  surface  of  the  ground,  you  will  now, 
in  November,  tie  these  in  a  horizontal  position,  about  six 
or  eight  inches  above  the  surface,  cutting  them  at  nearly 
two  feet  distance  from  the  main  stem.  In  the  following 
month,  February,  when  the  weather  is  mild,  displace 


olio  ,  ON  PRUNING. 

every  alternate  bud,  observing  that  it  is  those  on  the  under 
side  of  the  shoot.  If  every  thing  has  been  attended  to  in 
soil,  planting,  and  pruning  that  we  have  advanced,  there 
may  be  expected  to  arise  four  shoots  from  each  of  these 
horizontal  branches,  which,  if  any  show  fruit,  it  must  be 
cut  off:  these  young  shoots  must  be  trained  upright  during 
summer,  being  careful  to  displace  every  other  as  they 
appear.  Some  approve  of  training  these  young  upright 
shoots  in  a  serpentine  form,  which,  in  our  opinion  at  pre- 
sent, is  of  little  consequence ;  but  top  them  about  the  end  of 
August,  or  earlier  if  they  are  to  the  desired  height.  In 
November  of  the  third  summer's  growth,  you  may  now 
prune  for  fruit  as  above  stated.  Your  horizontal  branches 
will  have  fully  matured  four  luxuriant  upright  shoots.  Cut 
two  of  these  "alternately  within  one  eye  of  the  horizontal 
shoot,  which  will  produce  wood  to  be  fruited  the  following 
year,  and  lay  in  the  other  two,  in  a  serpentine  form  for 
fruit,  to  about  three  feet  in  length.  The  vine  has  now 
assumed  the  form  in  which  it  is  permanently  to  remain, 
and  it  may  be  considered  as  the  foundation  of  a  system  of 
alternately  fruiting  four  shoots,  and  training  four  out  their 
full  length  every  year,  which  method  may  be  continued 
every  year  without  any  alteration.  After  several  years,  if 
it  is  thought  proper,  the  arms  may  be  lengthened  by  the 
training  in  of  a  shoot  at  their  extremities,  and  managing  it 
in  the  same  manner  as  when  the  arms  were  first  formed ; 
but  it  is  not  advisable  that  the  branches  should  be  far  ex- 
tended, which  would  ultimately  prove  injurious  to  those 
branches  arising  from  the  bosom  of  the  vine.  This  system 
of  pruning  and  training  the  vine  we  do  not  advocate  as 
something  new  or  original,  but  one  which  we  have  seen 
in  full  and  successful  practice  twenty  years  ago.  By  pro- 
curing well-grown  plants  in  pots,  one  year  may  be  gained 
on  the  above  calculation  ;  for  you  can  prune,  and  at  once 
take  two  shoots  to  prepare  for  laying  the  foundation  of 
your  future  plant ;  but  more  than  this  cannot  be  accom- 
plished. We  are  aware  that  many  of  our  readers  are 
already  startled  at  this  tedious  method  of  fruiting  vines, 
and  have  almost  concluded  to  have  fruit  the  first  year  or 
none.  Such  are  too  frequently  the  conclusions  of  many; 
but,  as  sure  as  they  practice  it,  they  as  invariably  meet 
with  a  failure,  and  that  in  a  very  few  years.  The  practice 


ON  PRUNING.  339 

of  training  vines  to  get  them  up  to  the  top  of  arbours,  &c., 
cannot  be  done  with  fine  vines  without  risk.  As  we  have 
already  said,  it  may  and  will  da  with  our  native  kinds,  but 
no  other.  The  general  system  of  spur-pruning  has  many 
advantages  in  in-door  culture,  but  does  not  at  all  agree 
with  growing  grapes  in  the  open  air.  Our  limits  do  not 
admit  of  giving  in  detail  our  reasons  for  so  saying,  but 
those  who  doubt  may  go  on  in  the  old  way,  giving  the 
system  herein  advised  a  trial,  with  one  plant  only,  and  we 
guarantee  that  in  less  than  five  years  their  old  vines  are 
headed  down  to  the  stump,  to  begin  on  a  system  that  yearly 
renews  itself,  and  can  be  perpetuated  for  ages  on  the  same 
vine,  which  may  be  said  to  "  renew  its  youth  every  year." 
In  fact,  it  recommends  itself  by  simplicity — by  the  small 
number  of  wounds  annually  made — by  the  clear  and  hand- 
some appearance  of  the  vine,  and  by  the  great  ease  with 
which  it  is  managed — its  occupying  but  a  small  space. 
We  therefore  conclude  this  subject  with  the  following  few 
general  rules :  Use  a  knife  of  the  best  description,  and  let 
it  be  perfectly  sharp ;  cut  always  upward  and  in  a  sloping 
direction,  always  leave  about  an  inch  of  blank  wood  beyond 
a  terminal  bud,  and  let  the  cut  be  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  bud.  In  pruning  out  an  old  branch,  cut  it  even  with 
the  parent  limb,  that  the  wound  may  quickly  heal.  Never 
prune  in  frosty  weather,  nor  in  the  months  of  March, 
April,  or  May.  Let  the  general  fall  pruning  take  place 
about  the  end  of  October  or  first  of  November;  after  which, 
stir  up  the  ground,  and  let  a  good  coating  of  fresh  stable 
manure  be  laid  thereon,  which  will  both  protect  the  roots 
that  are  near  the  surface,  and  also  enrich  the  soil;  but  if 
stable  manure  cannot  be  procured,  leaves  from  the  woods 
are  an  excellent  substitute,  which,  after  decomposition, 
form  a  vegetable  manure  very  enriching,  and  one  very 
congenial  to  the  vine;  this  being  done,  nothing  more  is 
required  till  the  first  of  March,  when  the  roughest  must  be 
removed,  and  the  decomposed  particles  forked  into  the 
borders.  It  may  be  proper  to  state,  that  in  more  northern 
latitudes  and  greater  altitudes  than  Philadelphia,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  lay  down  the  vines  after  pruning,  during 
winter,  and  give  them  a  light  covering  of  litter,  straw, 
leaves,  or  mats,  which  will  completely  protect  them  from 
the  severest  frost ;  although  it  is  not  altogether  the  severity 
28* 


330  ON  MANURE. 

that  destroys,  but  the  alternate  frost  and  sun  acting  on  the 
plant  every  twenty -four  hours,  which  overcomes  the  vitality 
of  the  plant ;  and  another  fell-destroyer  is,  \vhen  we  have 
a  mild  February  and  a  severe  March.  When  such  occurs, 
which  is  but  rarely,  the  vines  must  all  be  protected  by  mats 
while  there  is  danger. 


ON  MANURE. 

This  subject  has  been  very  recently  indulged  in  to  a 
destructive  extent.  We  could  record  instances  of  soils 
strongly  impregnated  with  very  enriching  manures,  being 
almost  death  to  the  plant;  very  rich  soils  are  adhesive  and 
retentive  of  moisture,  which  is  destruction  to  the  roots  of 
the  vine.  The  celebrated  Brassin,  conductor  of  the  royal 
vinery  of  France,  used  to  practise  enriching  his  vine  bor- 
ders with  exciting  manures  :  he  now  finds  that  cleansing 
of  ditches,  grass-turf,  and  road  sweepings,  mixed  well 
together  and  allowed  to  ferment  for  a  year,  is  far  prefera- 
ble. He  now  uses  it  entirely  as  an  annual  dressing ;  but, 
in  our  opinion,  this  cannot  be  continued  for  any  length  of 
time,  unless  the  border  is  also  yearly  reduced;  conse- 
quently, manures  that  are  of  slow  decomposition  are  pre- 
ferable, and  nothing  that  we  are  acquainted  with  excels 
bones  of  every  description ;  but  these  are  not  always  at 
hand  in  quantity.  When  to  be  •  obtained,  they  should 
always  be  put  to  a  good  purpose — an  annual  winter  top- 
dressing  of  manure  of  a  few  inches,  and  the  roughest  re- 
moved in  the  spring,  digging  in  the  remainder  not  over 
four  inches  deep,  which  will  encourage  the  roots  to  the 
surface,  where  they  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  solar  heat 
and  air.  Liquid  manures  are  highly  valuable  where  im- 
mediate effect  is  required :  they  contain  all  the  soluble 
parts  of  manure  in  such  a  state  as  to  admit  of  being  taken 
up  by  the  plant  as  soon  as  applied.  These  are  urine,  which 
may  be  used  pure  any  time  from  the  first  of  November  to 
February  when  the  ground  is  not  frozen ;  but  if  used  at 
any  other  period,  must  be  diluted  with  its  equal  quantity 
of  water.  Drainings  of  manure-heaps  and  soap-suds  can 
be  used  at  all  times,  but  not  too  frequently.  Soot  dissolved 
in  water,  in  the  proportion  of  one  to  twelve,  is  an  exceed- 


DESCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE,  &C.  3&1 

ingly  strong  manure,  and  very  stimulating ;  Guano  dis- 
solved in  water  at  the  rate  of  20  Ibs.  to  100  gallons  is  a  first 
rate  manure  ;  where  great  growth  is  required,  they  maybe 
safely  watered  once  a  week,  during  the  growing  season, 
with  the  enriched  liquid ;  but  all  these  exciting  manures 
must  be  cautiously  applied,  as  excess  is  very  injurious  to 
the  fertility  of  the  vine ;  and  although  one  of  the  grossest 
feeders  in  nature,  even  possessing  the  appetite  of  a  glut- 
ton, it  can  be  satiated  and  destroyed. 


DESCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE  OF  GRAPES  MOST  SUIT- 
ABLE FOR  OPEN  AIR  CULTURE. 


Golden  Chasselas,  Chasselas  de  Fontainbleau, 
boyce,  or  Royal  Muscadine.  Bunches  medium  size,  with 
very  small  shoulders,  berries  of  a  moderate  size,  round 
when  ripe,  turning  to  a  bright  amber  colour,  having  a  thin 
skin,  a  soft  flesh,  and  a  rich  juice.  This  is  an  exceedingly 
fine  grape,  a  free  bearer,  is  very  hardy,  and  ripens  early  ; 
it  may  be  considered  one  of  the  best  white  grapes  for  out- 
door culture. 

White  Chasselas  or  WJiite  Muscadine.  Bunches  medium 
size,  shouldered,  and  well  formed.  Berries  round  and  of  a 
good  size,  juicy,  rich,  and  well  flavoured  ;  it  ripens  about 
the  middle  or  toward  the  end  of  September,  and  is  an  ex- 
cellent hardy  grape,.  and  fully  equal  to  the  former.  We 
consider  this  grape  the  same  as  the  Malmsey  Muscadine. 

Wliite  Sweet  Water,  (early.)  Bunches  rather  large  ; 
berries  of  a  good  size,  round,  of  a  white  colour,  and,  when 
perfectly  ripe,  especially  when  exposed,  they  are  shaded 
with  a  light  russet  colour  ;  they  grow  close  on  the  bunches, 
and  when  desired  to  have  large  berries,  the  bunches  must 
be  well  thinned,  the  juice  very  saccharine  and  luscious. 
We  consider  this  the  very  best  white  grape  for  walls  ;  it  is 
an  excellent  bearer,  makes  good  short-jointed  wood,  and  is 
very  early.  We  have  had  it  perfectly  ripe  on  a  south 
wall  the  first  day  of  September. 

Wliite,  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  Jerusalem  Muscat,  Ma- 
laga. Bunches  large,  but  short  and  well  shouldered  ;  ber- 
ries large,  oval,  and,  when  perfectly  ripe,  (which  will  not 
be  till  October),  are  of  a  pale  amber  colour,  often  without 


332  DESCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE,  &C. 

stones,  skin  rather  thick,  the  flesh  firm,  juice  not  plentiful, 
but  of  a  sweet,  highly  musky,  delicious  and  peculiar  fla- 
vour. It  is  an  extra  fine  grape,  and  requires  a  warm  situ- 
ation. It  does  not  bear  so  freely  as  the  former  two. 

White  Frontignac  or  Frontignan.  Bunches  long  and 
narrow,  without  shoulders,  rather  closely  set,  of  a  dull 
white  or  greenish  yellow,  and  covered  with  a  powdering 
bloom,  juice  very  sugary  and  rich,  with  a  delightful  spicy 
flavour.  It  ripens  in  September,  and  delights  in  a  dry 
soil. 

White  Hamburg,  White  Lisbon,  White  Portugal. 
Bunches  very  large,  short,  and  loosely  formed:  berries 
large  and  oval,  skin  thick,  of  a  greenish  white  colour,  flesh 
firm,  juice  sweet,  slightly  mixed  with  acid,  one  of  our  latest 
white  grapes.  The  plant  is  of  a  strong  robust  habit,  and 
an  excellent  bearer. 

.Austrian  Muscat.  Bunches  large  and  tapering :  berries 
round,  of  a  russet  white  colour,  skin  thin,  juice  rich  and 
musky,  and  of  excellent  flavour.  It  ripens  about  the  second 
week  of  September,  and  is  an  excellent  bearer. 

Black  Frontignac,  Violet  Frontignac,  Muscat  Noir. 
Bunches  small  and  short:  berries  round,  and  grow  close  in 
bunches,  skin  black,  covered  with  a  fine  light  bloom,  flesh 
tender  and  juicy,  of  a  rich  vinous  spicy  flavour. 

Black  Hamburg.  Bunches  tolerably  large,  with  short 
compact  shoulders,  tapering  to  a  point :  berries  large,  of  an 
oval  form,  skin  rather  thick,  very  nearly  black,  and  covered 
with  a  blue  bloom ;  flesh  tender,  sweet,  and  of  a  rich  vinous 
flavour :  ripens  about  the  first  of  October,  but  will  hang  on 
the  vine  till  frost.  This  is,  in  every  respect,  one  of  the 
finest  black  grapes  that  can  be  grown  in  the  open  air :  it  is 
also  a  constant  bearer.  The  leaves  in  the  fall  are  mottled 
with  green  and  yellow. 

Black  Prince.  Bunches  rather  long  and  generally 
shouldered :  berries  oval,  and  of  a  good  size,  skin  rather 
thick,  of  a  dark  purple,  and  covered  with  a  thick  bloom; 
flesh  white,  sweet,  juicy  and  well  flavoured:  ripe  about  the 
first  of  October. 

Black  Lombardy,  West's  St.  Peter's.  Bunches  long 
and  well  shouldered  :  berries  large,  round,  and  of  a  regu- 
lar size  ;  skin  thin  and  very  black,  juice  plentiful  and  of  a 


DESCRIPTIVE  CATALOGUE,  &C.  333 

very  high  flavour ;  is  perfectly  ripe  about  the  middle  of 
October,  and  will  keep  on  the  vines  till  frost. 

Black  Muscadine,  Black  Chasselas,  Violet  Chasselas. 
Bunches  about  the  size  and  shape  of  the  Golden  Chasse- 
las :  berries  perfectly  round  and  covered  with  a  blue  bloom : 
flesh  juicy  and  of  a  very  rich  flavour :  ripens  about  the 
first  of  October. 

Frankendale.  Bunches  large,  with  small  shoulders,  and 
rather  longer  than  the  Black  Hamburg :  berries  round  and 
closely  set ;  skin  deep  purple,  approaching  to  black,  cover- 
ed with  a  thin  blue  bloom ;  flesh  tender,  sweet,  rich,  and  of 
a  luscious  flavour :  it  is  a  great  bearer,  and  fully  ripe  about 
the  end  of  September  or  first  of  October. 

Grizzly  Frontignac,  Muscat  Gris.  Bunches  of  a  me- 
dium size,  with  small  shoulders:  berries  round,  of  a  light 
brown  colour,  intermixed  with  red  and  yellow  ;  the  juice 
is  exceedingly  rich,  and  possesses  a  high  spicy  flavour:  it 
ripens  about  the  middle  of  September. 

Hansteretto.  Bunches  large  and  well  formed:  berries 
also  large  and  perfectly  round,  of  a  jet  black  colour  when 
perfectly  ripe;  flesh  rather  juicy  and  of  a  rich  flavour; 
leaves  deeply  lobed  and  a  little  downy  underneath.  An 
excellent  hardy  grape,  but  inferior  in  quality  to  the  Black 
Hamburg :  ripe  about  the  first  of  October. 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


Acacia,  151,  203. 

A'rbutus,  207. 

Achimenes,  204. 

Ardisia,  151. 

Acmadenia,  233. 

Areca,  152. 

Aconitum,  36. 

Aristol6chia,  83,  152. 

Adams'  Needle,  47. 

Asclepias,  27,  36. 

Adenandra,  233. 

A'ster,  27,  207. 

Adonis,  30,  35. 

Astrapae'a,  152. 

Ethiopian  Lily,  283. 

Aucuba,  207. 

^Eschynanthus,  151. 
Agapanthus,  203. 

Auricula.  17. 
,   character  of  an,  91. 

Agathosma,  233. 

Azalea,  208. 

Ageratum,27. 

Agrostemma,  34. 

Babiana,  287. 

Air  plants,  187. 

Balsamina,  27. 

Allspice  tree,  161. 

Bamboo  cane,  152. 

Aloe,  204,  276. 

Bambusa,  152. 

AlonsSa,  204. 

Banana  tree,  148. 

Aloysia,  205. 

Banisteria,  153. 

Alplnia,  145. 

Banksia,  209. 

Alstroemeria,  205. 

Barbadoes  cherry,  169. 

Althae'a,  19,  34. 

—  —  —  gooseberry,  158. 

Amary'llis,  111,148,205. 

Barkpit,  136. 

Amaranthus,  30. 

BarSsma,  209. 

American  cowslip,  39. 

Barringtdnia,  153. 

Am&mum,  145. 

Beaumontia,  153. 

Amm6charis,  211. 

Beauf6rtia,  209. 

Am6rpha,  19. 

Begdnia,  209. 

Ampel6psis,  86. 

Bellis,  36. 

Anagallis,  27. 

Bellad6nna,  96. 

Anemdne,  18,  35,  111,  291. 

Benthamia,  210.' 

,  of  planting,  121. 

Bergamotte,  229. 

Aniseseed  tree,  244. 

Bign6nia,  85. 

Annuals,  list  of,  27. 

Bindweed,  30. 

hardy   nD 

Birthwort   83    152. 

Anthericum,  36. 

Bletia,  153,  210. 

Antirrhinum,  34. 

Bordnia,  210. 

Aotus,  207. 

Bouvardia,  210. 

A'picra,  277. 

Bottle  brush  plant,  250. 

Araucaria,  207. 

Brachysema,  210. 

A'rbor  Vltte,  98. 

Brachyc6me,  30. 

336 


GENERAL  INDEX. 


Bramble  rose,  313. 

Chamae'rops,  277. 

Brassia,  188. 

Cheiranthus,  34,  37. 

Br6wnia,  153. 

Cheldne,  37. 

Browallia,  27. 

Chile  Jasmine,  170. 

Brunsfelsia,  154. 

Chinese  Hybrid  Roses,  62. 

Brunsvigia,  211. 

Primrose,  292. 

Brngmansia,  30,  211. 

Pink,  27. 

Brtmia,211. 

Chorizema,  228. 

Budding  Roses,  114. 

Chrysanthemum,  37. 

Buddlea,  154. 

Chryseis,  31. 

Bonapartea,  154. 

Cineraria,  228. 

Btiphone,211, 

Cinnamomum,  228. 

Burchellia,  212. 

Cistern  of  water,  185. 

Cistus,  228. 

Cabbage  tree,  152. 

Citrus,  229. 

Cachlia,  27. 

Clarkia,  27. 

Cactus,  155. 

Clematis,  38,  83,  229. 

,  graaing  of,  138. 

Cleome,27. 

Calathea,  154. 

Clerodendrum,  159,  229. 

Calandrinia,  27. 

Ciethra,  230. 

Calceolaria,  212. 

Clianthus,  230. 

Calla,  283. 

Clivea,  230. 

CalliSpsis,  31. 

Clintonia,  27. 

Callicoma,212. 

Clove  tree,  158. 

Caltha,  36. 

Cobrea,  230 

Calothamnus,  212. 

Coffea,  159. 

Camellia,  list  of,  213. 

Coffee  tree,  159. 

in  rooms,  315. 

Colchicum,  111. 

Campanula,  17,  34,  37. 

Collinsia,  27,  30. 

Camphor  tree,  228,  246. 

Collomia,  31. 

Canary-bird  flower,  28. 

Colutea,  19. 

Candytuft,  31. 

Combretum,  159. 

Canna,  145,  154. 

Commelina,  27. 

Cantua,  34. 

Convolvulus,  30. 

Myrtles,  250. 

Coreopsis,  38. 

Jasmine,  163. 

Corn  flag,  287. 

Carfssa,  158. 

Coronilla,  231. 

Carmichaelia,  227. 

Coral  Plant,  162,  238. 

Carnation,  17. 

Corrcea,  231. 
C6rvnha    159 

'  on  'ayin£'  ll*'  iin 

Crassula   231 

Carolina  Jasmine,  261. 

Crataevgus,  232. 

Carydta,  158. 

Crinum,  160,  232. 

Caryoph'yllus,  158. 
Cassada  root,  168. 

Crdcus,  111,  121. 
Croton,  160. 

Catasetum,  188. 

Crdwea,  232. 

Catchfly,  35. 

Curcuma,  145. 

Cattleya,  188. 

Cyvcas,  160. 

Ceanothus,  227. 

Cy'clamen,  283. 

Celosia,  27. 

Cypripedium,  160. 

Centranthus,  47. 

Cypress  vine,  31. 

Centaurea,  27,  30. 

Cyrtanthus,  233. 

Cerbera,  158. 

Cyrtoceras,  161. 

Cereus,  lbf>. 

CyHisus,  19. 

Ceropegia,  158. 

GENERAL  INDEX. 


337 


Dahlia,  history  of,  100.                       !  Eucalyptus,  238. 
propagation  of,  101.                Encomia,  195. 

list  of,  104. 

Eugenia,  161. 

character  of,  107. 

Euonymus,  239. 

on  lifting  the,  127. 

Eupatfirium,  40,  239. 

Daisv,  17,  36,  49. 

Euphorbia,  162. 

Dam'piera,  233.                                      Eutaxia,  239. 

Daphne,  291.                                          Evergreen  shrubs,  of  planting,  87. 

Date  Palm,  173,  256.                            Evening  Primrose,  35. 

Davifesia,  233.                                         Everlasting,  241. 

Day  Lily,  41. 

Delphinium,  31,  38. 

Fabiana,  241. 

Dendrobium,  188. 

Fair  eye,  31. 

Dianthus,  27,  34,  39 

Fan  Palm,  159. 

Dictamnus,  39. 

Ferraria,  196. 

Digitalis,  34,  40. 

Ficus,  163,  239. 

Dillw/nia,  233. 

Fig  tree,  163. 

DionoeX  145. 

Flos  Adonis,  30. 

Diosma,  233. 

Flower  Garden,  on  laying  out  a, 

Diplacus,  234. 

13. 

Dodecatheon,  39. 

Flower  de  luce,  41. 

Double  rocket,  17. 

Flues,  on  constructing,  133. 

\Vall  flower    IS 

Foxglove   34   40. 

Datyanthes,  234. 

Franclscea,  163. 

Dracoexna,  161,  234. 

Fritillaria,  111,  117. 

Dracocephalum,  40. 
Dragon's  Head,  40. 

Framing  of,  17,  25. 
French  Honeysuckle,  35. 

Dragon  tree,  161,  234. 

Fraxinella,  39. 

Dropvvort,  46. 

Fuchsia,  240. 

Dryandra,  234. 

Funkia,  40. 

Dutchman's  Pipe,  83. 

Furnace,  on  constructing,  133. 

D'yckia,  235. 

i 

Gardenia,  163,  277. 

Echeveria,  235. 

Gardoquia,  241. 

Echinocactus,  155. 

Gasteria,  277. 

Edgings  of  various  plants,  58. 

Gazania,  241. 

Edwardsia,  235. 

Geissomeria,  164. 

Elephant's  foot,  262. 

Gelsemium,  241. 

Elichryvsum,  235. 

Gentiana,  40. 

Embothrium,  262. 

Genista,  19,241. 

Enarching,  268. 

Gerardia,  35. 

Enkianthus,  235. 

Gesneria,  146,  148. 

Entelea,  260. 

Geum,  41. 

Epac'ris,  235. 

Gilia,  31. 

Epidendrum,  188. 
Epiphyllum,  157. 

Gladiolus,  95,  195,  287. 
Glass-roof,  angle  of,  136. 

Eranthemum,  161. 

GloriSsa,  146. 

Erica,  236. 

Glory  flower,  230. 

list  of,  237. 

Gloxinia,  146,  148. 

Eriobotrya,  238. 

Gl/cine,  85. 

Er&dium,  238. 

Gnaphalium,241. 

Erythrina,  128,  162,238. 

Gongora,  188. 

Ery'simum,  31. 

Gomphrena,  27. 

Escalldnia,  238. 

Gorteria,  241. 

Eschscholtzia,  31. 

Grafting,  59. 

29 

GENERAL  INDEX 


Grape  vine,  culture  of,  317. 

Ipomffiva,  31,  165. 

p^J1!!!?'  ^on  • 

Iris   41    111    122. 

lict  of  331 

Irish  Ivy   85.' 

Green-house,  on  erecting,  191. 

Ismene,  165. 

I\ia    195   288 

Grevlllea,  242. 

Ix&r'a,  166. 

Grove  love,  31. 

Gum  elastic  tree,  240. 

Jacksdnia,  245. 

Guano,  56,  331. 

Jacobcea  Lily,  96. 

Jambdsa,  166,  245. 

Habranthus,  242. 

Japan  day  lily,  40. 

Hawkweed,  31. 

Jasmine,  86,  167. 

HawOrthia,  277. 

Jasminum,  86,  167,  245. 

Heart's-ease,  32. 

Jatropha,  167. 

'                culture  of  93 

Jonouil    111    122 

Junioerus    198 

Hedera,  85. 

Justicia,  16S,  245. 

Hedy'sarum;  35.' 
Hedy'chium,  145. 

Kffimpferia,  145. 

Helianthus,  31. 

Kalosanthes,  231. 

Helicdnia,  164. 

Kennedia,  245. 

Helichry'sum,  27,  242. 

Heliophila,  31. 

Lachenalia,  195,  284. 

Heliotrdpium,  164. 

Ladies'  slipper,  27. 

Hemerocillis,  40,  41. 

Lagerstrcemia,  271. 

Hemlmeris,  204. 

Lambertia,  246. 

Hemlock  spruce,  98. 

Lantana,  168. 

Heritiera,  164. 

Lasiopetalum,  246. 

Heron's  bill,  238. 

Lathyrus,  31. 

Hibbertia,  243. 

Latania,  168. 

Hibiscus,  27,  41,  164. 

Laurus,  169,  246. 

Hieracium,  31. 

Laurestinus,  266. 

Holly,  244. 

Lavandula,  246. 

Hollyhock,  34. 

Lavender,  246. 

Honeysuckle,  86. 

Lechenaultia,  247. 

Hottentot's  bread,  262. 

Leadwort,  257. 

Hdvea,  243. 

Leonotis,  247. 

H6ya,  161,  165. 

Leptospermum,  247. 

Hnmea,  35. 

Leptosiphon,  31. 

Hyacinth,  122. 

Leucadendron,  247. 

-_  A   _?u~-  U..IU-    a  t 

Li<itris   42 

Hybrid  Roses,  list  of,  62. 

Lilium'  122,  288. 

H'ydrangea,  243. 

Lily,  288. 

Hypericum,  243. 

Linum,  248. 

Lions'  ear,  247. 

Ibe'ris,  31. 

Liparia,  248. 

Ice  Plant,  28. 

Loasa,  28,  31. 

Ilex,  244. 

Lobelia,  248. 

Illicium,  244. 

London  Pride,  45. 

Indigofera,  244. 

Looking-glass  plant,  164. 

Indigo  tree,  244. 

Lonlcera,  86,  248. 

Insects,  destruction  of,  139. 

Lophospermum,  27,  248. 

Imhdfia,  211. 

Love  HPR  bleeding,  30. 

OENKRAL  1NDLX. 


Loquat,  238. 

Olive,  251. 

Lupinus,  31. 

Oncfdium,  188. 

Lychnis,  42,  249. 

Opnntia,  157. 

Lunaria,  35. 

Orchideous  plants,  187. 

Lysinem,  249. 

Ornithogalum,  284. 

LyHhrum,  42. 

O'xalis,  284,  288. 

Oxyldbium,  252. 

Manglfera,  169. 

Magndlia,  249. 

Pachidendron,  277. 

Mahogany  tree,  175. 

Pffidnia,  292. 

Maldpe,  28,  31. 

Pjeony,  list  of,  122. 

Malplghia,  169. 

Pancratium,  172. 

Mammillaria,  155. 

Pandanus,  172. 

Mandevilla,  170. 

Pansy,  32. 

Manettia,  249. 

Papaver,  32,  35. 

Mango  tree,  169. 

Passifldra,  86,    172,  252. 

Marvel  of  Peru,  31. 

Passion  vine,  172,  252. 

Marica,  170. 

Pelargonium,  252,  254. 

Mauraudia,  28. 

Pentstemon,  17. 

Mastich  tree,  256. 

Pereskia,  157. 

Mathiola,  28,  43. 

Periploca,  85. 

Maxillaria,  188. 

Periwinkle,  29. 

Melalenca,  249. 

Persoonia,  255. 

Melastoma,  170,  250. 

Petunia,  28. 

Melocactus,  155. 

Phaseolus,  256. 

Menziesia,  250. 

Phlox,  32,  43. 

Mesembryanthemum,  28,  277. 

Photinia,  232. 

Mespilus,  238. 

Phxylica,  256. 

Metrosideros,  250. 

Physic  nut,  167. 

Mexican  Lily,  205. 

Pho3xnix,  173,  256. 

Mignonette,  32. 

Phormium,  256. 

Mimosa,  28. 

Phry^nium,  145. 

Mirabilis,  31. 

Pimelea,  256. 

M'imulus,  28,  42. 

Pimpernel,  27. 

Monarda,  42. 

Pinks,  17,  112. 

Monkey  flower,  28,  42. 

Pinus,  98. 

Mnsa,  148,  171. 

Pistacia,  256. 

Musk  scabious,  35. 

Pitcher  plant,  171. 

M'yrsine,  250. 

Pitt6sporum,  257. 

Myvrtus,  171,  250. 

Plantain  tree,  171. 

Myrtle,  250. 

Platylobium,  257. 

Nandina,  251. 

Plumbago,  173,  257. 
Plumieria,  173. 

Narcissus,  123. 
Nasturtium,  29. 

PodalyVia,  257. 
Poinsettia,  173. 

Neapolitan  violet,  47. 

Poivrea,  159. 

Nemdphila,  31. 

Polyanthus,  17,  92. 

Nepenthes,  171. 

Polyxspora,  174. 

Nerium,  176,  251. 

Potentllla,  45. 

New  Zealand  flax,  256. 

Portulaca,  28. 

Norfolk  Island  Pine,  207. 

Primrose,  44,  49. 

u 

Prince's  Feather,  30. 

(E'nothera,  32,  35,  43. 

Primula,  44,  292. 

(Tlea,  251. 

Prdtea,  257. 

Oleander,  251. 

Pruning,  IS,  19. 

340 


GENKRAL  INDEX. 


Pterospermum,  174. 

Saxifraga,  45. 

Pulteno/a,  258. 

Scabiosa,  35. 

Schizanthus,  28. 

Queen  Margaret,  27. 

Scottia,  259. 

plant   °61 

Screw  Pinf*    172. 

Senecio,  259. 

Ragged  Robin,  42. 

Sensitive  Plant,  28. 

Ranunculus,  18,  111. 

Shrubs,  of  planting,  21. 

Shortia    28 

Red  cedar,  98. 

Shutters  of,  186. 

spider,  140. 

Silene,  35,  45. 

Renanthera,  188. 

Silk  vine,  85. 

Reseda,"32. 

Silver  tree,  247. 

Rhapis,  174. 

Snail  flower,  256. 

Rhododendron,  258. 

Snapdragon,  34,  35. 

Rhodochiton,  258. 

Sollva,  260. 

Rhus,  19. 

Solandra,  175. 

Richardia,  283. 

Spar'mannia,  260. 

Rhipidodendron,  277. 

Sparaxis,  289. 

Robinia,  19. 

Speedwell,  46. 

Rochea,  231. 

Sphserolobium,  260. 

Rocket  Larkspur,  31. 

Spiderwort,  177. 

Rock  rose,  228. 

Spirvaea,  46. 

Roella,  259. 
Rondeletia,  174. 

Spurge  Laurel,  292. 
Spreikelia,  96. 

Rooms,   treatment    of   plants    in, 

Sprengelia,  260. 

298. 

Stanhopea,  188. 

Rose  campion,  34. 

Star  of  Bethlehem,  284. 

Rosemary,  266. 

St.  Barnos  Lily,  36. 

Rose  tree,  258. 

St.  Johnswort,  243. 

Roses,  budding,  114. 

Statice,  46. 

Chinese,    or    Bengal    ever- 

Sterculia,  291. 

blooming,  69. 

Sternbergia,  111. 

climbing,  78. 

Stephanotus,  175. 

of  grafting,  66. 

Stock  Gilly,  17.  28,  43. 

^—  hardy  garden  list  of,  51. 

Stork's  bill,  252. 

hybrid,  list  of,  62. 

StrelUzia,  175,  261. 

1  isle  de  Bourbon,  o7. 

Streptocarpus,  261. 
Strawberry  tree,  207. 

microph}  Ha,  °^- 

noisette,  75. 

Stylfdium?  261. 
Styphelia,  261. 

odorata,  or  tea,  72. 

Summer  Heliotrope^  32. 

S,,ii,  ...-I/  ,,/!;-,    OAI 

perpetual,  DO. 

utnerlanclia,j  ^ol. 

Rnbus,  313. 

Swainsdnia,  261. 
Sweet  William,  34. 

Ruellia,  175. 

Sultan,  27,  30. 

Russelia,  175. 

Pea,  31. 

Swietenia,  175. 

Sage,  259. 

Sword  Lily,  95. 

Sago  Palm,  160. 

Sagus,  175. 

Tabernasmontana,  176. 

Salvia,  259. 

Tacsonia,  264. 

Salpiglossis,  28. 

Tagetes,  28. 

Saponaria,  45. 

Tea  Plant,  262. 

Sashes,  of,  136. 

Tccoma,  85,  176,  262. 

GENERAL  INDEX. 


341 


Telopea,  262. 
Testudinaria,  262. 
Thea,  262. 
Thomasia,  246. 
Thrift,  46. 
Thrinax,  176. 
Thnja,  98. 

Thunbergia,  29,  176. 
Tiger  flower,  96. 
Tigrfdia,  96. 
Tournefortia,  32. 
Tradescantia,  177. 
Tree  Primrose,  32. 

Pseony,  292. 

Tritdnia,  289. 

Trollius,  46. 

TropffiVum,  28,  29,  266. 

Tuberose,  92. 

Tulip,  of  planting  the,  124. 

Valeriana,  47. 
Variegated  Euphorbia,  31. 
Vanda,  188. 
Venus'  Paint  Brush,  27. 
Venus'  FJy-trap,  145. 
Verbena,  29,  265. 


Veronica,  46,  266. 

Viburnum,  19,  266. 

Viminaria,  266. 

Vinca,  29. 

Viola,  32,  47. 

Virgin's  Bower,  38,  83,  84,  229. 

Volkameria,  229. 

Wachendorfia,  195. 
Wall  flower,  34. 
Wax  pi  ant,  161,  165. 
Westringia,  266. 
Wind  flower,  35. 
Wistaria,  85. 
Witsenia,  267. 
Wolf's-bane,  36. 

Xeranthemum,  27. 
Yucca,  49,  267. 

Zamia,  267. 
Zebra  plant,  154. 
Zingiber,  145. 
Zinnia,  29. 
Zygopetalum,  188. 


89* 


LIST  OP  HARDY  SHRUBS. 


SEE  PAGE  56. 

Those  marked  thus*,  require  protection  in  witner.  and  those  marked 
thus^f,  shade  during  summer. 


AMORFHA,            Bastard  indigo. 

Dutzia  scabra, 

red,  white  and 

fruticdsa,           shrubby.    . 

purple. 

AMY'GDALUS,        Almond, 
nana,                 dwarf. 

EUONYMUS, 
japonica, 

Japan  Burning 

pumlia,              double-flowering. 

argentea, 

silver  edged. 

aersica,              peach-leaved. 

GOHD'ONIA, 

Franklinia. 

ANDROMEDA, 

pubescensj 

downy. 

all  the  species. 

HALESIA, 

snow  flake. 

AZ'ZALEA,             American  honey- 

diptera, 

winged  do. 

suckle. 

tetraptera. 

all  the  hardy  species. 

HIBISCUS, 

Althaea. 

AUCU'BA,               Gold  tree. 

syriacus, 

Althaea  frutax. 

tjaponica,        Japan. 

var.  var. 

B'ERBERIS, 

HYDRANGEA, 

all  the  species. 

all  the  varieti 

38. 

Bu'xus,                 Box  tree. 

t*  hortensis, 

garden. 

two  species. 
CALYc'jtNtHus,,    Sweet-scented 

HYPERICCM, 
kalmianum, 

profuse  flowered 
St.  Johnswort. 

shrub. 

ILEX, 

Holly. 

fioridus,             purple-flowered. 

var.  var. 

}>recdx, 

JASMVINUM, 

Jasmine. 

var.  var.            early. 

fruticans, 

shrubby. 

CASTI'NEA,            Chestnut-tree. 

officinale, 

climbing  white. 

pumila,               dwarf. 

JUNIPVERUS, 

Juniper. 

CE'RCIS,                Judas  tree. 

suecica, 

Swedish. 

canadensis, 

virgfnicus, 

Virginian. 

CHIONA'NTHUS.     Fringe  tree. 

KA'LMIA, 

American  laurel. 

virglnica,           common. 

glauca, 

glaucous. 

CLE'THRA, 

latifolia, 

broad-leaved. 

all  the  hardy  species. 
CORNUS,                Dogwood. 

KCEUTREUTERIA, 

paniculata. 

yellow-flowered. 

florida,               large  flowered. 

LAVURUS, 

Laurel. 

sangninea,         bloody. 

nobilis, 

sweet-bay. 

Crat'aegus, 

var.  var. 

several  species. 

LAVEND^ULA, 

Lavender. 

Cotoneaster, 

splca, 

spike-flowered. 

all  are  fine. 

MAGN\>LIA, 

Cy'tisus, 

purpftrea, 

purple. 

all  the  species. 

K6bus, 

slender. 

DA'PHNE, 

grdcilis, 

mezerium,         red. 

grandifldra, 

large-flowered. 

var.  var.           white  flowering, 

var.  var. 

fine. 

Thomsoniana, 

hybrid. 

344 


LIST  OF  HARDY  SHRUBS. 


consplcua, 

zoulan.                        h^ybrida, 

mountain   ash  —  a 

soulangeana, 

hybrid. 

beautiful  shrub. 

PHILADVELPHUS, 

mock-orange. 

SPIR\EA, 

grandifldra, 

large-flowered. 

tomenfosa, 

tomentose. 

mana, 

dwarf. 

bella, 

red-flowered. 

variegatus, 

variegated. 

frutex,  &c. 

showy. 

PINUS, 

Pine  or  Fir  tree. 

SYMPHVORA, 

Snow-berry. 

balsimea, 

balm  of  Gilead. 

racemxosa, 

white-berried. 

PINCKNE'YA, 

Georgia  bark  tree. 

glomerata, 

red-berried. 

pfrbens, 

downy. 

SyiOlNGA, 

Lilac. 

PRU'NUS, 

Cherry. 

all  the  species 

*  lusitanica, 

Portugal  laurel. 

TA'MARIX, 

*  laurocerasus 

,  English  laurel. 

Germanica, 

Tamarisk  tree. 

P^YRUS, 

TAXVUS, 

Yew. 

all  are  very  fi 

ne. 

bacckta, 

RHODODE'NDRON 

,  Rose-bay. 

hibcrnica, 

a  handsome  erect, 

catawbiense, 

Catawba. 

growing    ever- 

da&ricum, 

daurian. 

green. 

var.  var. 

THUXJA, 

arbor-vita?. 

ponticum, 

pink. 

occidentalis, 

American. 

var.  var. 

orienta'lis, 

Chinese. 

maximum, 

common. 

THUJA, 

Norway       arbor- 

RnVs, 

Sumach. 

plicata, 

vita. 

cotinus, 

mist  tree. 

THILLIA, 

Lime    or   Linden 

Rl^BES, 

tree. 

aureum, 

fragrant. 

parvifolia, 

small-leaved. 

sangulneum, 

bloody. 

coccfnea, 

scarlet. 

ROBINIA, 

Locust  tree. 

VIBURNUM, 

hispida, 

rose-acacia. 

opnlus, 

guelder-rose. 

SHEPHERDIA, 

buffalo-berry. 

var. 

argentea, 

rosea, 

rose-coloured. 

SORBUS, 

* 

LIST  OF  VERONICAS. 


SEE  PAGE  46. 


VERONICA, 

Sweed-well. 

incarnata, 

flesh-coloured. 

officinalis, 

officinal  i 

carnea, 

pale  red. 

chamxsedrys, 

Germander. 

leucantha, 

white  flowered. 

media, 

long-spiked. 

bellidioldes, 

daisy-leaved. 

incana, 

hoary. 

verna, 

vernal. 

elegans, 

elegant. 

amxcEna, 

fine-blue. 

sptcata> 

spiked. 

pulchella, 

neat. 

grandis, 

large  white. 

TABLE  OF  SOILS. 


THE  following  compound  of  soils  are  adapted  to  the  natur 
Plants  contained  in  this  work  : 


of  the 


NUMBER. 

Savanna. 

1 

2 

2 

- 

3 

4 

_ 

5 

all 

6 

3 

7 

_ 

8 

4 

10 

1 

11 

_ 

12 

_ 

13 

2 

14 

_ 

15 

_ 

16 

4 

17 

_ 

18 

_ 

19 

1 

Loam. 
1 
3 

4 

2 

1 
3 

1 
2 
1 
3 
3 
2 
4 
4 

5 

1 
1 


Leaf. 

Sand. 

2 

1 

_ 

1 

1 

-       1 

1 

2 

-       1 

-       i 

1 

— 

2 

-       1 

1 

1 

1 

i 

_ 

1 

2 

1 

1 

— 

1 

1 

1 

-       1 

Manure. 


REMARKS  ON  THE  NATURE  OF  SOILS  USED  IN  THE  ABOVE  TABLE. 

Peat  or  Savanna  soil — is  of  a  dark  colour,  with  a  large  portion  of  white 
sand  incorporated  with  it,  and  is  found  frequently  in  New  Jersey.  A 
mixture  of  two-thirds  black  earth  from  the  woods  and  one-third  of 
pure  white  sand  will  be  similar  to  it,  and  may  be  used  as  a  substitute, 
but  is  not  exactly  of  the  same  nature. 

Loam — is  of  a  light  brown  colour,  and  is  that  from  the  top  of  old  pas- 
tures or  commons,  which  should  lie  one  year,  and  be  frequently  turned 
before  using.  It  ought  not  to  be  from  a  clay  bottom,  and  merely 
three  inches  of  the  turf  taken. 

Leaf  mould — is  that  which  is  to  be  found  on  the  surface  of  the  ground 
in  woods,  and  is  the  decomposed  leaves.  It  may  be  termed  nearly 
of  first  rate  importance  in  vegetation. 

Sand — is  a  substance  that  is  generally  known,  and  that  which  is  found 
on  the  surface  is  decidedly  the  best.  If  it  is  from  a  pit,  it  must  be 
spread  out,  and  frequently  turned,  that  it  may  assimilate  with  the 
atmosphere  before  using  ;  four  months  will  be  sufficient. 

Manure — before  using,  must  be  decomposed  to  very  fine  particles.  It 
will  require  two  years,  during  which  time  it  must  be  often  turned,  and 
the  longer  it  lays  it  will  be  the  finer  and  more  congenial. 


THE    END. 


ERRATA. 

Page  31  line  19,  for  "meutabilis"  read  mutabilis. 
"  85  "  35,  for "  Periplaca"  "  Periploca. 
"  136  «  6,  for "  Park,"  "  Bark. 

"  169    «    25,  for  "  Magnifera,"   "    Mangifcra. 


KOBEKT    BUIST, 
NURSERYMAN,  SEEDSMAN,  AND  FLORIST, 

NO,  140  SOUTH  TWELFTH  STREET,  PHILADELPHIA, 

Cultivates  and  has  for  Sale,  on  the  very  lowest  cash 
terms,  an  extensive  assortment  of  the  Rose,  Camellia,  Pe- 
largonium and  other  foreign  Plants,  and  is  constantly  in- 
troducing those  new  sorts  worthy  of  the  attention  of  either 
amateur  or  cultivator.  He  also  has  a  select  assortment  of 
all  the  choice  Fruits,  with  several  thousand  fruiting  plants 
of  foreign  Grape  Vines  in  pots.  He  invites  personal  in- 
spection to  his  stock,  which  is  not  excelled  by  any  in  the 
United  States.  His  green-house  department  occupies 
18,000  square  feet  of  glass,  which  enables  him  to  fulfil  the 
most  extensive  demands.  Flowers  and  Vegetable  Seeds, 
Hyacinths,  Tulips  and  other  Dutch  bulbs. 

All  orders  must  be  accompanied  with  cash  or  responsi- 
bility. Every  article  carefully  packed  and  forwarded  at 
the  risk  of  the  purchaser. 

Priced  catalogues  mailed  to  order. 


BUIST'S    PRIZE    SEEDLING    STRAWBERRY, 

This  new  American  Seedling  Strawberry  is  offered  to 
the  public  as  one  of  the  very  best  in  cultivation.  The 
fructifying  organs  of  the  plants  are  all  perfect,  thereby 
ensuring  a  full  crop.  It  is  of  very  high  flavour  and  rich 
crimson  colour,  large  size  and  great  bearer,  and,  when 
brought  before  a  Committee  of  the  Pennsylvania  Horticul- 
tural Society,  in  comparison  with  others,  was  pronounced 
"  decidedly  the  best." 


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